Updated 7/27/19 This index is for the first two volumes of this build thread. Tonight, I'm starting Volume 3 because volume 2 is getting close to the 200 page limit. Starting with volume 3 I will only have an index on page 1 for that Volume. It seems there is a character limit for a post and I found it with this index.
INDEX
Volume 1
Vol 1. Page 1 Changing forums - the benchworkVol 1. Page 2 Overview and Status in March of 2014
Vol 1. Page 3 A look back at the Benchwork and Paster work on the mountains,
Painting the Plaster work
The Photo Back Drops
Making Aspen Trees
Vol 1. Page 4 Making Pine Trees
Preparing the Talus Materials
Vol 1. Page 5 Prototype Photographs
Vol 1. Page 6 Prototype Photographs
Control Panel
Vol 1. Page 7 Layout Diagram "original plan"
Roundhouse Photographs
The Stone Roundhouse Build - start
Vol 1. Page 8 Stone Roundhouse Build - the walls
Vol 1. Page 9 Stone Roundhouse Build - the Roof
Vol 1. Page 10 Stone Roundhouse Build - Painting
Vol 1. Page 11 Laying more track
Planning the town of Sellios
Vol 1. Page 12 Testing track
Vol 1. Page 13 First Runs - lower track
Vol 1. Page 14 Benchwork and Town layout - Sellios
Vol 1. Page 15 Benchwork and Town layout - Sellios
Vol 1. Page 16 Track work in Sellios
Vol 1. Page 17 Planning Structure Placement - Sellios
Vol 1. Page 18 Logo for the Superior & Seattle Railroad
Vol 1. Page 19 Cedar Shingle Pine Tree armatures
Modeling in the Summer
Vol 1. Page 20 Roofing on the Stone Roundhouse
Vol 1. Page 21 Doors on the Stone Roundhouse
Vol 1. Page 22 More plaster work
Vol 1. Page 23 Installing the DCC System
Vol 1. Page 24 DCC System Discussion
Vol 1. Page 25 DCC System Installation
Vol 1. Page 26 DCC System Installation
Vol 1. Page 27 More track installation
Vol 1. Page 28 Track Testing
Vol 1. Page 29 Door production for the Stone Roundhouse
Vol 1. Page 30 Ballasting The Eagles Nest Yard
Vol 1. Page 31 Ballasting The Eagles Nest Yard
Vol 1. Page 32 Changes - moving mountains
Vol 1. Page 33 Adding some talus materials
Vol 1. Page 34 Stone Roundhouse Build - Tar Paper Roof
Vol 1. Page 35 Stone Roundhouse Build - Doors, Windows, Trim
Vol 1. Page 36 Planting Aspen Trees,
prototype pictures Aspen Trees
Vol 1. Page 37 Stone Roundhouse Build Trim, Front Stone Work
Pictures of Mountains with Fall Color
Vol 1. Page 38 The view through "Wayne's hole"
Vol 1. Page 39 Some overall room photographs of the layout
Vol 1. Page 40 Stone Roundhouse Build - Painting the trim
Vol 1. Page 41 Stone Roundhouse Build - Installing the Windows
Vol 1. Page 42 The A&I tube
Vol 1. Page 43 Stone Roundhouse Build - Painting the Roof
Vol 1. Page 44 Stone Roundhouse Build - Final pictures on the workbench
Stone Roundhouse Build - Moving and installing on the layout
Vol 1. Page 45 Stone Roundhouse Build - Installation pictures
Vol 1. Page 46 Discussion of storage on the benchwork
Vol 1. Page 47 New - flex shaft rotary tool
Vol 1. Page 48 The Eagles Nest Yard
Vol 1. Page 49 Kit discussion
Vol 1. Page 50 Scenery on Mt. Aiden
Vol 1. Page 51 Mt. Aiden Trestle Build - bents
Vol 1. Page 52 Testing coloring for the Trestle
Vol 1. Page 53 Start of scenery on Mt. Aiden
Vol 1. Page 54 Progress pictures scenery on Mt. Aiden
Vol 1. Page 55 Surveying for the Trestle
Stripwood for the Mt. Aiden Trestle
Casting the footings for the Mt. Aiden Trestle
Vol 1. Page 56 Changes in the Mountains
Vol 1. Page 57 Coloring the trestle footings
Vol 1. Page 58 Mt. Aiden Scenery progress pictures
Vol 1. Page 59 Setting the footings for the Mt. Aiden Trestle
Vol 1. Page 60 Mt. Aiden Trestle Build first Bents
Vol 1. Page 61 Staining Stripwood
Vol 1. Page 62 Mt. Aiden Trestle Build
Vol 1. Page 63 Mt. Aiden Trestle Build
Vol 1. Page 64 Trestle Build progress pictures
Vol 1. Page 65 Trestle Build progress pictures
Vol 1. Page 66 Painting Bolt Castings
Vol 1. Page 67 Installing Bolt Castings - Mt. Aiden Trestle
Vol 1. Page 68 Cutting more strip wood
Dealing with impatient forum members
Vol 1. Page 69 Adding retaining walls
Vol 1. Page 70 Trestle Build progress pictures
Vol 1. Page 71 Counting nut and bolt castings
Vol 1. Page 72 Mt. Aiden Trestle - the finishing process
Vol 1. Page 73 Adding Scenery to Mt. Aiden
Vol 1. Page 74 Building retaining wall for Mt. Aiden
Pine Tree Production
Vol 1. Page 75 Dead Pine Trees
Vol 1. Page 75 The Brambell's Build Start - What's in the box
Vol 1. Page 76 Brambell's - Site preparation on the Layout
Vol 1. Page 77 Brambell's - Making Extra Castings
Vol 1. Page 78 Brambell's - Changing the site plan to fit my location on the layout.
Vol 1. Page 79 Brambell's - Making Molds
Vol 1. Page 80 Brambell's - Painting the castings
Vol 1. Page 81 Brambell's - Preparing the background scenery
Vol 1. Page 82 FSM Sawmill reconditioning for the S&S RR.
Vol 1. Page 83 Brambell's - Fitting castings to my site.
Vol 1. Page 84 Brambell's - Castings - lessons learned
Vol 1. Page 85 Brambell's - Painting the castings
Vol 1. Page 86 Brambell's - Testing the base with castings on the layout
Vol 1. Page 87 Brambell's - Detail castings - preparation for painting
Vol 1. Page 88 New Tools
Vol 1. Page 89 Brambell's - Warehouse Assembly
Vol 1. Page 90 Brambell's - Painting the detail castings
Brambell's - The wood retaining wall
Vol 1. Page 91 Brambell's - More Warehouse Assembly
Vol 1. Page 92 Brambell's - adding detail castings
Vol 1. Page 93 Brambell's - Warehouse Roof Construction
Vol 1. Page 94 Brambell's - Adding the Hoist House
Brambell's - Adding the back deck
Brambell's - A test fit on the layout
Vol 1. Page 95 Brambell's - Adding the ground cover
Vol 1. Page 96 Brambell's - Adding the Warehouse back shed
Vol 1. Page 97 Brambell's - More details
Vol 1. Page 98 Brambell's - Building the front deck
Vol 1. Page 99 Brambell's - Building the Trestle
Vol 1. Page 100 Brambell's - The cement wall
Brambell's - The Trestle Deck
Vol 1. Page 101 Updating the index
Vol 1. Page 102 Brambell's - Rail Siding and Dock
Adding more trees
Vol 1. Page 103 Brambell's Front Office
Vol 1. Page 104 Brambell's Scale and Scale House
Vol 1. Page 105 Brambell's Adding Dirt
Brambell's Test Plant on Layout
Vol 1. Page 106 Changes, Dad's, and the old layout
Vol 1. Page 107 Working in the Mountain
Vol 1. Page 108 Brambell's The Details
Vol 1. Page 108 Brambell's Finish Pictures on the Workbench
Vol 1. Page 108 A clean workbench
Vol 1. Page 109 Chippy Hollow Build Start
Vol 1. Page 110 Another Trestle Build
Vol 1. Page 111 More Pine Tree Production
Chippy Hollow Painting the wall castings
Vol 1. Page 112 Start of the Mt. Aiden Small Trestle
Vol 1. Page 112 Eagles Nest Hardware Build
Vol 1. Page 114 Track on the Mt. Aiden Trestle
Vol 1. Page 114 Chippy Hollow Build Progress
Vol 1. Page 115 Eagles Nest Warehouse Wall Castings
Vol 1. Page 116 Build Progress Eagles Nest Warehouse and Chippy Hollow
Vol 1. Page 117 Painting the Eagles Nest Warehouse Castings.
Vol 1. Page 118 Progress Report Small Trestle Build on Mt. Aiden.
Vol 1. Page 118 Layout Diagrams update
Vol 1. Page 119 Chippy Hollow Build update.
Vol 1. Page 120 Reusable Mold Material test.
Vol 1. Page 121 Trestle Build Progress.
Vol 1. Page 123 Final Pictures Mt. Aiden Trestle Build.
Vol 1. Page 124 Eagles Nest Warehouse Progress Report.
Vol 1. Page 126 Chippy Hollow Build Update
Vol 1. Page 128 Chippy Hollow Details
Vol 1. Page 128 Chippy Hollow become Walter P's
Vol 1. Page 129 The Staging Yard.
Vol 1. Page 130 The Control Panel Switch Panel.
Vol 1. Page 133 Eagles Next Warehouse - new paint and weathering.
Vol 1. Page 134 Start of the Jacob's Coal Build.
Vol 1. Page 136 Prototype Pictures from Greenfield Village
Vol 1. Page 137 Making room for the inside the mountain helix.
Vol 1. Page 138 Building the Helix.
Vol 1. Page 142 Making molds for plaster castings.
Vol 1. Page 143 More Aspen Trees
Vol 1. Page 146 Start of the C. C. Crow Stone Church Build
Vol 1. Page 147 Making room for the HOn3 Trestle
Vol 1. Page 148 Plans for the mountain top.
Vol 1. Page 148 Hidden Yard Build
Vol 1. Page 150 C. C. Crow Church Pictures
Vol 1. Page 153 Starting the HOn3 Trestle Builds
Vol 1. Page 155 Jacob's Coal Build Update
Vol 1. Page 157 Getting out the saw - more changes
Vol 1. Page 159 Using a Clay Mockups for design.
Vol 1. Page 162 The Start of the town of Sellios
Vol 1. Page 163 Sawmill placement.
Vol 1. Page 164 More on the Clay Mockup.
Vol 1. Page 167 Future Build Plans.
Vol 1. Page 169 The HOn3 Trestle Final Build Pictures.
Vol 1. Page 171 More Aspen Trees
Vol 1. Page 172 Moving on to Volume 2 of the S&S RR Build.
Volume 2
Vol 2. Page 1 Adding trees to the mountains.
Vol 2. Page 2 Using a Mortar & Pestle to create fine sand.
Vol 2. Page 3 Mountain Surgery
Vol 2. Page 4 Clay mockup of Phase III.
Vol 2. Page 5 Phase III Expansion
Vol 2. Page 6 Straightening the curves
Vol 2. Page 7 New Pine Trees
Vol 2. Page 8 Phase III track work
Vol 2. Page 9 More Aspen Trees
Vol 2. Page 10 Making Aspen Trees
Vol 2. Page 12 New Crew member
Vol 2. Page 14 Test planting of Aspen Trees
Vol 2. Page 16 Test running the trains
Vol 2. Page 17 Helix build
Vol 2. Page 18 The HOn3 Branchline
Vol 2. Page 19 New HOn3 Locomotive
Vol 2. Page 20 Using my iPad to design the scenery
Vol 2. Page 21 Start of the Mackenzie Milling Build
Vol 2. Page 27 Start of the Isaac's Coal Build
Vol 2. Page 33 Running trains with the expanded crew
Vol 2. Page 35 Continued work on Mackenzie Mill and Isaac's Coal
Vol 2. Page 44 Adding another layer of scenery with some new Pine Trees
Vol 2. Page 53 Isaac's Coal test plant
Vol 2. Page 54
See post below for continuation of this index - we hit the maximum character limit for a post.
Wish there was a way to get the first 20 some pages here
Volume 2
Vol 2. Page 1 Adding trees to the mountains.
Vol 2. Page 2 Using a Mortar & Pestle to create fine sand.
Vol 2. Page 3 Mountain Surgery
Vol 2. Page 4 Clay mockup of Phase III.
Vol 2. Page 5 Phase III Expansion
Vol 2. Page 6 Straightening the curves
Vol 2. Page 7 New Pine Trees
Vol 2. Page 8 Phase III track work
Vol 2. Page 9 More Aspen Trees
Vol 2. Page 10 Making Aspen Trees
Vol 2. Page 12 New Crew member
Vol 2. Page 14 Test planting of Aspen Trees
Vol 2. Page 16 Test running the trains
Vol 2. Page 17 Helix build
Vol 2. Page 18 The HOn3 Branchline
Vol 2. Page 19 New HOn3 Locomotive
Vol 2. Page 20 Using my iPad to design the scenery
Vol 2. Page 21 Start of the Mackenzie Milling Build
Vol 2. Page 27 Start of the Isaac's Coal Build
Vol 2. Page 33 Running trains with the expanded crew
Vol 2. Page 35 Continued work on Mackenzie Mill and Isaac's Coal
Vol 2. Page 44 Adding another layer of scenery with some new Pine Trees
Vol 2. Page 53 Isaac's Coal test plant
Vol 2. Page 54 Mackenzie Mill Build continued
Vol 2. Page 55 Locomotive Works build initial planning
Vol 2. Page 56 Isaac's Coal detailing
Vol 2. Page 58 Isaac's Coal on the layout
Vol 2. Page 59 Mackenzie's Mill detailing
Vol 2. Page 60 Clean workbenches
Vol 2. Page 61 Locomotive Works starting the build
Vol 2. Page 63 Future build planning
Vol 2. Page 66 Locomotive Works Roof mockup
Vol 2. Page 68 Locomotive Works Building the walls
Vol 2. Page 70 Painting Detail Castings
Vol 2. Page 73 Locomotive Works the layout site
Vol 2. Page 74 Locomotive Works painting the wall castings
Vol 2. Page 75 Locomotive Works starting the interior details
Vol 2. Page 77 Locomotive Works coloring the wall castings
Vol 2. Page 79 Locomotive Works the roof construction
Vol 2. Page 80 Monster Model Works brick tower
Vol 2. Page 82 Locomotive Works Inspection Pits
Vol 2. Page 83 Locomotive Works Brick Floor
Vol 2. Page 86 Locomotive Works Roof test fit
Vol 2. Page 87 Locomotive Works Overhead Crane installation
Vol 2. Page 90 Locomotive Works more interior details
Vol 2. Page 95 Mackenzie's Mill back on the details
Vol 2. Page 96 Locomotive Works interior lighting
Vol 2. Page 97 Locomotive Works coloring the metal roofing
Vol 2. Page 99 Locomotive Works more interior details
Vol 2. Page 102 Locomotive Works starting the exterior details
Vol 2. Page 103 More lighting for the layout
Vol 2. Page 105 Mackenzie's Mill Pond
Vol 2. Page 107 Planting more trees on the layout
Vol 2. Page 108 Using a mortar and pestle for grinding dirt fine
Vol 2. Page 110 Locomotive Works LED lighting
Vol 2. Page 112 Locomotive Works interior lighting test
Vol 2. Page 115 Layout Expansion
Vol 2. Page 117 More Aspen Trees on the layout
Vol 2. Page 118 Start of the Threadwell's build
Vol 2. Page 120 Threadwell's site planning
Vol 2. Page 123 Ipad mockup of the Threadwell site plan
Vol 2. Page 124 New resin walls for the build
Vol 2. Page 125 Starting the build on the workbench
Vol 2. Page 126 New pictures of the finished area of the layout
Vol 2. Page 128 More Details for the Locomotive Works build
Vol 2. Page 131 New Engineer on the S&S RR
Vol 2. Page 133 First structure build for my Grandson
Vol 2. Page 136 Expansion Plans for the S&S RR
Vol 2. Page 137 LED lighting for the Threadwell build
Vol 2. Page 138 Adding water to the Threadwell build
Vol 2. Page 140 Threadwell build moved to the layout
Vol 2. Page 141 More Trees
Vol 2. Page 142 Sewall's build start
Vol 2. Page 143 Adding the signs to the Locomotive Works
Vol 2. Page 144 Threadwell build photographs after adding the scenery
Vol 2. Page 146 More layout pictures
Vol 2. Page 148 Design plans discussion
Vol 2. Page 149 Baseboard for Sewall's and Fox Run builds
Vol 2. Page 150 Finishing the turntable area in front of the Stone Roundhouse
Vol 2. Page 152 First locomotives on the turntable
Vol 2. Page 152 First locomotives on the Eagles Nest turntable
Vol 2. Page 153 Scenery work around the Stone Roundhouse
Vol 2. Page 154 Draft Layout diagrams for the Phase IV Expansion
Vol 2. Page 155 Servo Turnout Controls
Vol 2. Page 156 The Phase IV Expansion begins
Vol 2. Page 157 Moving furniture and the Phase IV base cabinets
Vol 2. Page 158 Design Changes for the Superior Yard
Vol 2. Page 159 Phase IV construction - the helix
Vol 2. Page 161 Walter P. visits the S&S RR
Vol 2. Page 163 Workshop ExpansionVol 2.
Page 164 Benchwork on the Phase IV expansion
Vol 2. Page 165 The table top of the lower level of the the Phase IV expansion
Vol 2. Page 166 Using lasers to keep the track straight
Vol 2. Page 167 The Phase IV Track work begins
Vol 2. Page 169 Design Changes
Vol 2. Page 170 Control Panel Build
Vol 2. Page 172 The North Yard Construction
Vol 2. Page 174 Control Panel Construction for Phase IV
Volume 3
See page 1 of Volume 3 for this index continued - I hit the character limit for one post. :o
John,
I'll be watching as well.
Tom :)
Happy New Year!
I'm spending the day updating the financial plan and watching the Rose Bowl. Tomorrow I start the big push on the layout to get all the tracks installed and wired, the DCC installed, and trains running. I have decided that updating forum threads, and structure builds will be on hold until that is complete.
;D :)
I wanted to update everyone on the progress I've made on the Superior & Seattle. I'm keeping to my plan of waiting until the track and electronics are completed before starting a new build thread. To-date I have 40% of the track installed and wired. Actually ran a few engines through the completed track work. It is great to see so many layout threads getting started here. I'm also looking forward to getting started on a new thread here soon - well depends on your definition of soon. 6 weeks = 40 % well you can do the math.
It is time to get started with the Superior & Seattle RR build thread.
So how do you start over with a build thread when you had 5 years of history somewhere else?
I'm currently laying track and wiring the layout after completely starting over 5 years ago. The starting over consisted of tearing out all of the previous layout except the bench work. I decided that my new layout would be a mountain layout and so it is. It is a freelance Railroad that goes from Superior (the Upper Peninsula of Michigan) to Seattle through the prettiest mountains the builder could find along the way. I just opened the 33rd 100 lb. bag of plaster. Those of you that saw my original build thread have seen pictures of this process. I will post the pictures of this process here as I complete each section of the new layout.
So as I was laying on my back wiring the layout today, I was thinking of how to get this new build thread started. Since this is a build thread why not start with what I've been looking at the past six weeks - the foundation of the layout - the bench work. This picture is one of the tunnels underneath the mountains of the layout. I'm taking the picture from about the middle of the tunnel so it is about 30 feet to the far wall. It kinda looks and feels like a mine shaft. A few of the features I want to point out are; the false floor 4 inches above the cement basement floor and the floor drains, the conduit that carries the 110 volt power to the control panels, the double 2x4 posts every six feet (also, if necessary, I could cut the layout up in six foot sections to move it), and the wall outlets every 8 feet so I can plug in power tools. The layout is not attached to the walls. All of the buss wires you see are number 12 wire. The layout is wired for block control so it is very easy to locate any wiring problems by throwing switches at the control panels. Right now all the wires are loose, so I can get at them to connect the jumpers. I will bundle them after everything has been tested.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170314092741.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170314092741.jpeg)
Why the false floor - the area underneath the layout is our storage area. If a pipe breaks in the house everything is off the floor. I learned the hard way that this was necessary when a supply pipe in the bathroom decided to break. Sidebar - if the builders used plastic supplies in your house replace them - they get brittle and break.
In my next post I will describe the water management system that I put in before I put 3300 pounds of plaster mountains underneath an upstairs laundry room, bathroom, and kitchen.
The area above my layout room has one inch of concrete and a ceramic tile floor for the laundry room, a bathroom, and the kitchen. If anything goes wrong with any of the equipment in these three rooms the water would end up running through the heating ducks and right on top of all my scenery. So I installed 4 inch floor drains in each room upstairs and piped them through the mountain scenery which extends up to the ceiling. As you can see from the pictures the benchwork has been modified a number of times in this area. The pipe in the pictures is for the floor drain in the kitchen - it is right under the dish washer where it can not be seen. The drain for the laundry room is under the washer, and in the bathroom it is piped off the floor mounted heating duct.
Finally for today - my mode of travel underneath the layout. My knees were getting real tired of crawling through the tunnels under the layout, so I built this cart to navigate through the maze of tunnels. I can position the back rest in any position, including a full laying on my back for the tight low ceiling areas. It doesn't have a Hemi, but it sure has made the wiring job much easier. The 5 inch wheels are the key to easy navigation. It is now time to get on that cart and get the wiring completed so I can get back to the structures and scenery.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170314092924.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170314093124.jpeg)
Hey John, just make sure you don't doze off laying on that thing. ;D
8)
I haven't seen that kind of under-layout view since the old TMRC layout in MIT's Building 20 was demolished. We had little carts to roll around underneath to get at switches, relays and wiring. We called them 'bunkies'.
James and Andy
Thanks for following the thread. When I was in college I may have called the cart a "bunkie" and took a little snooze on it, but thanks to that college education I now have a better place to rest. The cart sure has helped with the wiring of the layout.
The attached layout drawing is a test. When you click on the attachment do you get a nice big picture of my layout diagram?
Quote from: S&S RR on February 21, 2014, 09:24:07 PM
The attached layout drawing is a test. When you click on the attachment do you get a nice big picture of my layout diagram?
Got it - that's an awesome layout drawing!
Quote from: gnatshop on February 21, 2014, 09:33:48 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on February 21, 2014, 09:24:07 PM
The attached layout drawing is a test. When you click on the attachment do you get a nice big picture of my layout diagram?
Got it - that's an awesome layout drawing!
Thanks David - that's one.
Well the file doesn't work on my IPAD nice try.
Here are a few photographs of the area above the bench work to get this thread started. The current status of the layout is that the plaster mountains have been completed and painted. They still need the detailing which will be completed for each area as I complete the scenery. This will consist of dry brushing the highlights and adding some detail color with chalks. The trees and structures you see in these pictures are sitting on the layout waiting for final placement . I like to play with tree size to maximize the depth of each scene. At least this will give you a feel for what I want to accomplish.
Excellent rock work John.
8)
Thanks Andy
I will take some good photographs when I get the track work finished. I just wanted to get a couple pictures posted here to get the thread started.
A few more pictures of the work in progress. The last picture is Tom's AS on the Superior and Seattle.
John,
I'll second the comment about the rock work!!! Fantastic. Love the photos of the layout. more photo's please.
Frank / Erieman
Thanks Frank
More photos on the way. I found some talus material on my field trip today that I think is going to put the finishing touch on the rock work.
Hope you didn't get any rattlesnake rattles mixed in with the talus!!!! ;D ;D ;D
Quote from: gnatshop on March 05, 2014, 11:30:30 PM
Hope you didn't get any rattlesnake rattles mixed in with the talus!!!! ;D ;D ;D
David
I'm real careful with snakes - only collect HO scale.
I looked up the .xps file type - one site says "Microsoft's less-compatible version of a PDF". .xps on Win7 & Vista is apparently incompatible with .oxps on Win8.
Nice progress on the scenery.
Quote from: jbvb on March 06, 2014, 10:36:06 PM
I looked up the .xps file type - one site says "Microsoft's less-compatible version of a PDF". .xps on Win7 & Vista is apparently incompatible with .oxps on Win8.
Nice progress on the scenery.
James
Thanks for researching the file type - I'm going to go back to using the original pictures for rebuilding this thread - little more work but worth it.
The following pictures will provide a history of the S&S build over the past 5 years. This series of pictures provides virtual tour of the layout as it existed about a year ago just after the rock work had been painted with the acrylic paints. I will then post a few pictures of the process that was used to get to this point.
Picture set one: is a structure placement test. There are four FSM kits off my workbench in these pictures ; kit 180 the Sand House, kit 125 the Tool Shed and Water Tower, kit 160 the Repair Shed, and kit 170 the Saw Mill. The structures are 85% complete with some finish detail work required before they find their permanent placement on the layout.
Here are a few pictures of the build process for the mountains. As stated earlier, I have used 33 - 100 pound bags of plaster so far on the layout. The base shape of the mountains is traditional cardboard mess covered with plaster and paper towels. Rock castings from about 50 different molds are then fitted and attached to the base plaster with a plaster mortar - just like laying bricks. Each of the latex molds were shaped into multiple configurations using drying fixtures so the number of different rock castings is a very big number.
A few more pictures of the plaster process in various locations around the layout.
Wow, Now that's a lot of plaster, now I can see why they look so good.
8)
Thanks Andy! I'm putting together a few pictures of the process I used to paint the plaster.
Holy Shmokes !!!!!!
On the subject of the rock coloring and painting I want to give credit to Darryl Huffman for getting me started with his excellent DVD's on the subject. I highly recommend starting with painting everything black as you will see from the following pictures. I then painted a coat of Burnt Umber. The key is to get rid of all the white spots with these two coats of paint. When you think you have covered all the white spots take a picture and you will find out you have more work to do. I let both of these coats dry before the third and final step. In the final step, I had a palate of paints that consisted of the following colors; Burnt Sienna, Sand, Yellow Ochre, Golden Brown, Neutral Gray, Raw Sienna, and Tan. The Golden Brown and Neutral Gray were applied first then the rest of the colors were applied randomly. Finally, working in small areas so the paints would not dry I applied a wash of Raw Umber. This allowed all the colors to blend. The first time I tried this all at once technique, it looked real bad when it was wet, so I gave up for the day. When I came back a few days later for another try, it looked great after it dried. Over the next few months I learned to change the coloring from dark to light and gray to brown as I wanted with changing the relative amounts of each color of paint (I did get lots of practice). I was always comparing my results to the prototype pictures that I have from my trips. You will see the photographs hanging from the light valance in some of the construction pictures to follow. As far as I'm concerned, the key to making mountain scenery realistic is to change the colors. Nothing makes the rocks look fake like painting them all the same color - it just doesn't happen that way in nature.
Here are a few pictures of the work in progress.
Here is a sequence of pictures from start to finish in the area underneath the stairs. There were many design challenges in this area with the stairs and the poles to hide.
Putting this together as made me realize that I don't have a full set of pictures of the layout as it exists today. I have added that to the to-do list for a future post.
This next set of pictures are from the yard area of the layout - I will start with the installation of the back drops. These first few photographs show the room with the 1/4 inch masonite boards I used to hold the backdrops. I also included a few pictures with the remains of the old layout which are all hidden now. Please remember that this is the construction thread - lots of mess!
The unfinished wood light valance were added as the first step in the construction of the new layout. I also made sure that the soldiering work was completed on the hidden tracks before I started with the scenery. All of the track is accessible and can be maintained from underneath when the layout is complete.
First a few pictures of the installation of the masonite boards. The same procedure was used for the photo backdrops all around the layout room.
In the first picture you can see just a little bit of the old layout in the corner that will be covered up.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170314200822.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170314200403.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170314201457.jpeg)
And then the photo backdrops were unrolled and attached with rubber cement. This is not a one person job and I want to express a special thanks to Wayne Olson who started helping me on the layout with this project and has been working with me as much as possible ever sense. I think it has been about 4 years now.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170314195727.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170314195727.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170314195638.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170314195638.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170314200135.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170314200135.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170314200236.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170314200236.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170314200610.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170314200610.jpeg)
It was amazing what the backdrops did for the layout room. I'm extremely happy with the photo backdrops. About a month after we had installed the backdrops we covered them with plastic to protect them and it was about 2 years before we saw them again while we did all the plaster and painting work. Again a few pictures of what this area looked like during that period of time. In the last picture of this post you can see the sand we applied over the plaster in the areas that we were going to use ground foam. The sand really helps give the surface a bite to hold the ground foam in place on the vertical surfaces while the glue dries.
Just awesome work John, like the way you hid the posts.
8)
Thanks Andy - I'm glad you are enjoying the thread.
The process we are using for making the aspen trees on the layout can be seen in the next set of pictures. I made a drying rack on the back of my workbench to help speed up the process. We are using super trees for the armatures of the aspen trees. Here is a list of lessons learned in making the aspen trees; 1) acrylic paints work well for painting the off-white bark and the knot holes black, 2) soak the super trees in matte medium and use soldiering clamps to hold them straight, 3) Use the flocking material sparingly. On the first batch of trees I made, I used way to much flocking and Wayne the "Artistic Director on the S&S RR" told me the looked like S**T. We did some experimenting with less and less flocking and found that the trees with very little flocking looked much better. Take a look at the pictures and see if you agree. Let me know if you have any questions on the procedure.
Trees made with different densities of flocking and a few growing on the layout.
John
The problem with trees is after you put up the first one it screams for another thousand or two. I have 700+ trees on my RR and it's not that big of a room.
Looks great.
Thanx
Bob
John , did you get real Super Trees, i mean the brand or did you look for a Floral supplier. I bought a box from a floral supplier , cost me 45 dollars and it's good for about 800- 900 trees.
Quote from: bparrish on March 11, 2014, 07:09:04 PM
John
The problem with trees is after you put up the first one it screams for another thousand or two. I have 700+ trees on my RR and it's not that big of a room.
Looks great.
Thanx
Bob
Bob - you are so right. I'm on my second case of super trees. I have know idea how many will be needed. I like to build the trees in my gazebo in the summer. Can't wait to see the gazebo again it covered in snow right now. I have hundreds of pine trees to make this summer - they take more time per tree.
Quote from: Janbouli on March 11, 2014, 08:32:25 PM
John , did you get real Super Trees, i mean the brand or did you look for a Floral supplier. I bought a box from a floral supplier , cost me 45 dollars and it's good for about 800- 900 trees.
Hi Janbouli
Good to hear from you - yes I'm using the brand name SuperTrees that I purchase from Scenic Express. The retail price here in the states is $115. We made 650 full size trees with lots of branches for bushes and sagebrush trees left over from the first case. I have never found another source for them here and it probably doubles the price to ship them over that pond we have between us.
John...
Have you considered making a less involved tree for the back ground areas? Although looking at your photos the visitors can be close up most every where.
What I'm suggesting in crowded forests on hill sides ............ near the top of the scenicing.......... only the tree tops can be seen .................. the forest through the trees gig.............
Let the plaster work stack up and apply only tops as it goes higher and farther back. That begs painting your upper plaster work a dark shadowed forest color to make it believable when viewed from below. This makes your visitors during construction very confused for a time but it does work.
Also consider structures in the distant background to be in N scale ( if you are in HO) as a forced perspective for the illusion of distance.
Making trees are a lot of fun but you're gonna need a bunch here. Just trying to lighten the load a bit.
see ya
Bob
Thanks for the input and following the thread Bob.
I will be using forced perspective with the trees by changing the size as they get farther away from the viewer. The steep elevation change on the layout requires that most of the trees be foreground quality to look right. Another forced perspective is that the narrow gauge line is at the highest elevation and in the background in the deep scenes. I have designed the layout so there are four different mountain ranges in some of the views (not ready for a picture yet). I will also be using some N scale structures.
John...
Very cool.
Below is a photo of the high line in my logging district. The spar pole is a direction change in the lines and there is a staging point at the base of that spar pole. The line going back to the wall goes to an N scale donkey boiler winch and some N scale buildings. I had too much fun with this part of the railroad.
see ya
Bob
I'm using the following process for the confier trees. I start with Cedar shingles that were left over from my 1:1 Gazebo build.
I split the cedar shingles into strips about 1/2 inch wide.Then I used my belt sander to rough out a round trunk. After the roughing process I take over with a rasp to cut the final shape and add the bark texture. The final step for the armatures is a nail in the end for planting and a bath in Alcohol & Ink. I used 4 tablespoons to the pint to get the dark bark color I was looking for.The branches of the trees are made from dried caspia purchased at Hobby Lobby. The caspia is painted with olive green camouflage paint and attached to the armatures by drilling small holes and gluing them in place. If you are lucky enough to find some of the caspia that is brown save it for the dead branches. The final step is the dark green ground foam. Here again, like with the Aspen trees, don't use very much ground foam. I plan on replacing some of the trees in the yard area of my layout because I used to much ground foam on my first trees.
Just terrific ! ! !
see ya
Bob
A few trees placed on the layout while I was testing the look with different size trees. And a picture of some Aspen trees ready for planting.
A few more planted trees.
Quote from: bparrish on March 13, 2014, 01:53:21 PM
John...
Very cool.
Below is a photo of the high line in my logging district. The spar pole is a direction change in the lines and there is a staging point at the base of that spar pole. The line going back to the wall goes to an N scale donkey boiler winch and some N scale buildings. I had too much fun with this part of the railroad.
see ya
Bob
Very nice Bob. We need a picture from out in the room to give it the perspective view.
A few pictures of prototype trees in the Northwest area that I'm modeling. The ones modeled by God! Notice the size and shape differences as the altitude changes.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170314202723.jpeg)
John........
It's common in the northwest here that trees get the tops blown out of them by lightning. The natural physiology of the trees, Doug Fir, Grand fir and occasionally Tamarack (Larch) is that when they loose the top they also loose the center of the tree growth hormone and the top remaining layer of branches go nuts trying to be in charge. This becomes the nest foundation for prey birds, especially osprey if it is anywhere near water as they are exceptional fishers. Put one somewhere and see if anyone notices.
see ya
Bob
Quote from: bparrish on March 13, 2014, 06:59:21 PM
John........
It's common in the northwest here that trees get the tops blown out of them by lightning. The natural physiology of the trees, Doug Fir, Grand fir and occasionally Tamarack (Larch) is that when they loose the top they also loose the center of the tree growth hormone and the top remaining layer of branches go nuts trying to be in charge. This becomes the nest foundation for prey birds, especially osprey if it is anywhere near water as they are exceptional fishers. Put one somewhere and see if anyone notices.
see ya
Bob
I have the castings- I need to spend some time painting them. I have a number of detail mini scenes from nature planned.
I collected more talus material on my trip to Arizona this year - 2 five gallon buckets are currently coming special delivery via the Wayne & Elinore trucking company. Wayne and his wife drove out to AZ and volunteered to bring the buckets full of talus back with them. Arizona is a great place to get natural talus materials because every color possible seems to be within a few mile radius. I thought it might me useful to post a few pictures and describe the process I use to process the talus for the layout.
1) Step one is to get the use of the oven for a few hours (If anyone asks I use the one at the cabin).
I cook the material at 425 degrees to get the moisture out and get rid of any critters that may be hiding in the bucket.
2) After everything is dry and cooled down, I sift the materials into three different containers. The first is a mesh with 1/6 inches square openings. The second has a mess of 1/4 inch. Anything that is larger than the 1/4 inch goes in the third container. I try to collect materials of different shades of brown and gray and separate them into different containers so I can match the rock color in different locations on the layout. Here are a few pictures of the process.
In addition to the smaller talus that mother nature breaks up to the right size for me, I also collect some larger rocks that I breakup myself with a hammer. I made a special box that I store at the cabin for this purpose. It is made from some old 2x8 's and keeps the rock fragments from flying around when I hit them with a hammer. I have had real good luck making my own talus material this way when I can't find the right color and size.
John..........
Try this................ when you are done with a batch of plaster......... save the dried chunks that are in the bowl, on the masking and where ever. I call them crunchies. I break up the big stuff and save 'em in a box. I really never seem to run out. After the last pull of plaster over the sub base, while it is still wet, grab some crunchies and slide a fist full over the wet plaster on some vertical area. When dry, blast it with some grey paint, seal it with dull cote and then use a india ink wash or something with a bit of blue in it to make it look like granite. It's really easy and no one can figure out how you did it.
Rock strata can be done after the crunchies by pulling a coarse wire brush horizontally across the area. One or two swipes and then allow to dry and color later. Real easy.
I have seen a lot of railroads where people tried to use real granite but the quartz and hornblend crystals are so big it doesn't scale out. If scaled to HO........... you can't see the crystals in granite. Only the over color and weathering.
see ya
Bob
Quote from: bparrish on March 15, 2014, 01:49:46 PM
...
Rock strata can be done after the crunchies by pulling a coarse wire brush horizontally across the area. One or two swipes and then allow to dry and color later. Real easy. ...
No strata for granite. You may see layers in lava flows like basalt from the volcanoes in the west. Strata usually means sedimentary or metamorphic rock. You always want photos from your specific area, and Google Maps street view can be a good "substitute" if you don't have your own.
dave (who plans to study geology when he retires - after 35 years working with people, rocks can't be any dumber!)
Dave.........
Those were two separate paragraphs but either way......... ya got me.
see ya
Bob
Quote from: bparrish on March 15, 2014, 06:57:33 PM
Dave.........
Those were two separate paragraphs but either way......... ya got me.
see ya
Bob
Ah, now I see. What was it I said about "rocks can't be any dumber"?
dave
Dave and Bob thanks for following the thread and the modeling ideas. Bob the technique of using up the pieces of plaster that are left over is in use on the layout - it is a great technique. My idea with the natural talus is to match the colors and then use the natural materials for the fine detailing that really make the rock work pop and look real. I hope to have pictures later on this year to show you what I'm trying to achieve. As I mentioned earlier in the thread I had pictures posted all around the layout when I was doing the rock work. I used them for both the plaster molds and when we were doing the initial painting. I thought it might be of interest to some if I posted those pictures here. Then in a few weeks I will take a new set of pictures of how the layout looks today. We can compare the final scenes to these pictures as I complete each area with the natural materials, and then again when the area is complete.
On the subject of the type of rocks that I'm collecting most of the larger rocks are Sedimentary and the "right color". Sedimentary rocks are easy to breakup with a hammer! As for the Granite, I only use it if mother nature did the work for me and there are no shinny crystals showing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170314202926.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-180314112206.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-180314112206.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-180314112045.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-180314112045.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-180314112717.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-180314112717.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-180314112620.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-180314112620.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-160314180121.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-160314180121.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-180314112420.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-180314112420.jpeg)
I have taken many trips to the area I'm modeling and have thousands of photographs to use as I do the modeling - I find this to be one of the most enjoyable parts of the hobby. This first set of pictures is from the Whistler Train in British Columbia.
For those that are paying attention, the last picture was added because I like the tree.
We lived in BC (North Delta, suburb of Vancouver) for a couple of years, and did a lot of day trips into the interior. You have your choice of rocks there :-), some granite (Stawamish Chief!), a lot of basalt and other lava flows, e.g. on the trip up to Whistler, and then back to sedimentary rocks once you're in the interior. Somewhere I have some great photos of the Othello tunnels on the Kettle Valley RR, scenery that only a model railroader would dream up (and proof that even in scenery, there's a prototype for everything.)
dave
Quote from: deemery on March 15, 2014, 08:06:39 PM
We lived in BC (North Delta, suburb of Vancouver) for a couple of years, and did a lot of day trips into the interior. You have your choice of rocks there :-), some granite (Stawamish Chief!), a lot of basalt and other lava flows, e.g. on the trip up to Whistler, and then back to sedimentary rocks once you're in the interior. Somewhere I have some great photos of the Othello tunnels on the Kettle Valley RR, scenery that only a model railroader would dream up (and proof that even in scenery, there's a prototype for everything.)
dave
David
Please post or send me the photos if you can find them. Sure would be nice to have some prototypical proof that what I've dreamed up could be real!
Quote from: deemery on March 15, 2014, 08:06:39 PM
We lived in BC (North Delta, suburb of Vancouver) for a couple of years, and did a lot of day trips into the interior. You have your choice of rocks there :-), some granite (Stawamish Chief!), a lot of basalt and other lava flows, e.g. on the trip up to Whistler, and then back to sedimentary rocks once you're in the interior. Somewhere I have some great photos of the Othello tunnels on the Kettle Valley RR, scenery that only a model railroader would dream up (and proof that even in scenery, there's a prototype for everything.)
dave
The variety of rock types and colors along just one railroad is one of the points I'm trying to make. Sometimes you can take one picture and have dozens of combinations.
The Durango & Silverton RR Rock Formations (set 1).
The Durango & Silverton Railroad (set 2).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-300314093610.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-300314090351.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-300314090351.jpeg)
Durango & Silverton Railroad (set 3) the Talus.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-300314084959.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-300314085128.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-300314082713.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-300314082713.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-300314080223.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-300314080223.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-300314080446.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-300314080446.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-300314080637.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-300314080637.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-300314080833.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-300314080833.jpeg)
I few more rock formations taken along the road in Colorado. Most of the roads are built on old railroad grades.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-180314212203.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-180314212246.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-180314212401.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-180314120011.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-180314212710.jpeg)
I have long been a conscientious objector of rock molds because neither I or anyone I have been around had a great enough selection that after a very short while they all get to looking alike, even when rotated a bit.
I'm still a window screen guy as you can wrinkle it up and pre set the natural erosion lines and slump stuff.
My dad started me out with wood fiber plaster as it was a base for old lathe and plaster stuff in houses.
Not available any longer that I have found
see ya
Bob
I learned to work with plaster in the die making trade. I managed die design, and build, in the Auto Industry for 32 years. When I started out we made full size plaster models that were used to make the machining aids. It is interesting to see the 3D printing find it's way to the hobby, we started using it 20 years ago for die models. It didn't last very long, we quit using models after a few years and started cutting the dies directly from the CAD model.
Quote from: bparrish on March 15, 2014, 08:52:35 PM
I have long been a conscientious objector of rock molds because neither I or anyone I have been around had a great enough selection that after a very short while they all get to looking alike, even when rotated a bit.
I'm still a window screen guy as you can wrinkle it up and pre set the natural erosion lines and slump stuff.
My dad started me out with wood fiber plaster as it was a base for old lathe and plaster stuff in houses.
Not available any longer that I have found
see ya
Bob
Bob
The rock mold issue has been solved by Bragdon. He sells every shape and size you could want. Between his and the other suppliers I probably have over a hundred. At least I know there are three big boxes full under the layout.
Good Morning John,
Thanks for sharing all the rock and tree photos. Now that the divisional meet is over, I need to get to work on more of my scenery. Keep up the inspirational photos. As you know, i have to build a lot of trees.
Frank / Erieman
This is a test of posting pictures with Jimmy's lesson 2:
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-160314175231.jpeg)
The picture should be above.
Holly S**T that's a big picture. What do you think? No more little Icons and clicking.
The view from the Whistler train British Columbia.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-160314180121.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-160314180121.jpeg)
This is what the layout needs to look like.
Looks like I will be editing some of my previous posts. Stay toned.
I'm looking for some feedback - how do these last two pictures look on your screen?
They look good...... the second however was so large that the forum went back to the slider deal to see it all.
How are you getting these bigger than the two inch stuff?
see ya
Bob
Oh,
and John.......... I noticed the big tree with the top knocked out of it...... Perfect for Osprey.
Thanx
Bob
Quote from: bparrish on March 16, 2014, 06:10:32 PM
They look good...... the second however was so large that the forum went back to the slider deal to see it all.
How are you getting these bigger than the two inch stuff?
see ya
Bob
Bob
See lesson 2 from Jimmy in the how to post on the modelersforum thread.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-160314233355.jpeg)
Pine tree from the layout.
Just completed my third homework assignment and posted the last picture using my iPad. This works great. The quality of the pictures with the retina display is great. Let the posting begin.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-160314234525.jpeg)
Trees on the layout test 2.
Most of the rocks you see on the train from Whistler to Vancouver are volcanic. Particularly once you've cleared Squamish and start climbing, that's all basalt flow from Mt. Garibaldi (one of the Coast Range volcanoes.) I always enjoyed that drive when we lived there. My BC photos are all old-fashioned printed photos, so I'll have to dig out the pictures and scan them.
dave
Quote from: deemery on March 17, 2014, 10:38:42 AM
Most of the rocks you see on the train from Whistler to Vancouver are volcanic. Particularly once you've cleared Squamish and start climbing, that's all basalt flow from Mt. Garibaldi (one of the Coast Range volcanoes.) I always enjoyed that drive when we lived there. My BC photos are all old-fashioned printed photos, so I'll have to dig out the pictures and scan them.
dave
Dave
Thanks for looking for the photos - I hope you find them. If your like me the stuff that was shot before the digital camera is real hard to find.
The rocks being volcanic makes lots of since with all the volcanoes up and down the coast. The one thing that I remember and can see in the pictures is that the rocks were not sparkly like the rocks you would find in Michigan with all the quartz crystals.
Today I started the main control panel that will house the DCC system for the layout. In this picture you can see the switch that allow each power district to be turned on and off. The first of several drawers for the computer boards is also shown in the closed position.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-180314205310.jpeg)
This second picture shows the drawer open and ready for the DCC system installation. All of the components of the DCC system will be housed in drawers like this and wired to allow for easy access.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-180314205210.jpeg)
John.......
You are really cooking on this railroad. Too bad I live so far from Michigan.
We have a lot of DCC operators here in the valley and one has used a drawer idea like yours and it works well. My command station just hangs off of the edge of the bench work in one area along with the test track. Pretty out of the way. I use all wireless stuff so needing the command station is a pretty seldom thing.
see ya
Bob
Quote from: bparrish on March 18, 2014, 09:58:52 PM
John.......
You are really cooking on this railroad. Too bad I live so far from Michigan.
We have a lot of DCC operators here in the valley and one has used a drawer idea like yours and it works well. My command station just hangs off of the edge of the bench work in one area along with the test track. Pretty out of the way. I use all wireless stuff so needing the command station is a pretty seldom thing.
see ya
Bob
Thanks Bob - If you every get this way I would be happy to show you the layout.
Before I get this build thread up-to-date with what I'm working on today we need a track plan. This will do for a start but I need to find a better way to display it here.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190314121856.jpeg)
The dimensions of the L - shaped space for the layout are 40 feet by 60 feet. About 60 percent of that area will be devoted to the layout.
Layout Diagram Portrait, this may be easier for some to view.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190314132826.jpeg)
John,
Holy Cow! I'm green with envy of all your space! I love it!
Tom ;D
I'm in envy that he retained his grammar school skills of drawin' with all them
colored pencils! ;D ;D ;D ;D (need a 'rollin' on the floor' smiley!!)
Serussly, that layout diagram is awesome!! 8) 8) 8)
Quote from: ACL1504 on March 19, 2014, 04:39:04 PM
John,
Holy Cow! I'm green with envy of all your space! I love it!
Tom ;D
Let's just see if I can fill it with some good stuff. We are sure working at it! Thanks for following the thread.
Quote from: gnatshop on March 19, 2014, 05:54:54 PM
I'm in envy that he retained his grammar school skills of drawin' with all them
colored pencils! ;D ;D ;D ;D (need a 'rollin' on the floor' smiley!!)
Serussly, that layout diagram is awesome!! 8) 8) 8)
Those colored pencils come in handy - we referred to them at work as CAD version 1.0. All good designs start with a pencil. This drawing was done with a software package called CADRAIL. It is good for design refinement but it all started on a drafting board. I'm not happy with the way it displays - I need to do a version with colors that photograph better.
Good to see you back David - thanks for following along.
Today, I added two more drawers to the main control panel for the DCC equipment. I also got back to the workbench after about 3 months of track laying and wiring. At this point the lower level track has been completed and is ready for ballast. This is about 40% of the total track that I need to complete - but I'm now going to start working on both track work and structure builds to break things up. The project on my workbench is the Stone Roundhouse for the yard. I spent a few minutes loading the build pictures of the Stone Roundhouse build into the gallery last night so tonight I'm going start to put together an abridged version of a build thread to bring this thread up to the point that I left off 3 months ago.
One of the structures that I wanted to use as the centerpiece for the yard on my layout is the Stone Roundhouse. The first time I saw the structure was in Linn Westcott's book "Model Railroading with John Allen". I confirmed that I just had to have this structure on my layout after seeing George Sellios' Franklin and South Manchester layout in 2007. After many attempts over the years to purchase one of Bob VanGelder's Stone Roundhouse kits, I gave up – just too much money in the collectors market – I would need two kits to make the roundhouse I wanted. Like everyone in this hobby, I sure wish I would have purchased the kit when Bob released it.
On a return visit to the F&SM I mentioned to George that I really wanted to build the Stone Roundhouse but the ebay prices for the kits on Ebay were way to rich for my blood. A few comments about Ebay crazies followed and then I went off to look at more of the F&SM and George started a conversation with one of the other guests at his open house. When is was time for me to leave George handed me a red box - he said that these were the left over original castings that Bob VanGelder had given him for his roundhouse. He told me to make a mold and scratch build the rest of the parts that I needed. He also asked me to ask Bob if he cared if I copied the original castings. I talked to Bob at the EXPO and he was fine with it - he actually sound excited that I was building it with the original castings as the seed. Bob also had some comments about Ebay crazies. So that is how this build started - the castings have been in that red box for a few years while I completed enough of the layout to be ready for this build. Let's start with a few pictures of John Allen's Stone Roundhouse.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-180314213725.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-180314213630.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-180314213542.jpeg)
A few pictures of the Stone Roundhouse on the F&SM.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190314205815.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190314210134.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190314210308.jpeg)
And finally a few pictures of Bob VanGelder's Stone Roundhouse on the South River & Millville.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190314211904.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190314211448.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190314211328.jpeg)
This is a photograph of the original castings that George gave me.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190314133533.jpeg)
The original side wall castings were rectangular - no roof pitch. From these castings I made molds and then cut and fitted the plaster castings for the sidewalls, back, and front of the roundhouse. At one point I was counting stones on the castings and then counting stones on pictures to get the proportions just right.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-180314213448.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-180314213806.jpeg)
This sequence of pictures shows the resulting molds and castings.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190314133456.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190314133456.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190314133404.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190314133404.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190314133323.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190314133323.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190314133248.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190314133248.jpeg)
I made dozens of castings from each mold because I knew I would waste some during the cutting and fitting part of the project.
The next step in the process was to cut the base out of the bench work of the layout. Here are a few pictures of the bench work and the hole that was left after the base was removed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190314133635.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190314133533.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190314133751.jpeg)
Future home of the Stone Roundhouse.
The base was then moved to my work bench and the cutting, sanding, grinding, and fitting began. Here are a few pictures of the process.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190314134310.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190314134310.jpeg)
It all starts with the first piece.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190314134345.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190314134345.jpeg)
The roof pitch had to be cut into the side walls and the windows had to be fitted. Also, each casting had to be squared and fitted to the next. This created lots of plaster dust.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190314134158.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190314134158.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190314134020.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190314134020.jpeg)
Some cracked castings also needed to be repaired.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190314133936.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190314133936.jpeg)
The test fit - before the glue. Also, notice the rock molds drying on the lines on the back of the work bench. Getting them ready to go in the box after the layout rock work was complete.
That's enough for tonight - tomorrow we will start the assembly process.
I know all too well the feeling of terror you get when working on a plaster kit, that one slip can ruin your whole experience!
dave
Quote from: deemery on March 20, 2014, 10:19:11 AM
I know all too well the feeling of terror you get when working on a plaster kit, that one slip can ruin your whole experience!
dave
Dave
I find that the look of plaster when it is complete makes it worth the risk. I have found that cracks are easy to fix. I'm not sure if that isn't because I have had lots of practice. :-\
Next step on the roundhouse was the assembly of the walls. I added wood on the interior because I like the look and it helped stabilize the large plaster wall castings. In the location the roundhouse is going on my layout the interior will only be visible through the back and side windows so the look isn't going to be real valuable once the roundhouse is on the layout.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190314134020.jpeg)
First the plaster castings were glued together.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-200314121837.jpeg)
Then they were reinforced with a wood interior wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-200314121913.jpeg)
In my case, I was working with Model Masterpieces parts that would have been really expensive to replace. (No one seems to know what happened to the old MM molds.)
What are you using to glue the plaster together? I've used carpenter glue, with epoxy where I wanted a particularly strong joint (or gluing wood bracing to plaster.)
dave
Quote from: deemery on March 20, 2014, 05:44:49 PM
In my case, I was working with Model Masterpieces parts that would have been really expensive to replace. (No one seems to know what happened to the old MM molds.)
What are you using to glue the plaster together? I've used carpenter glue, with epoxy where I wanted a particularly strong joint (or gluing wood bracing to plaster.)
dave
Dave
I used epoxy for the plaster to plaster joints and carpenter glue for the wood to plaster. The casting here are very easy to replace because I made the molds, but when I put a plaster kit together I usually make a mold of the major plaster castings before I start. I know I will find a place on the layout for the extra casting and I have a backup if I have a major disaster.
I actually made extra casting for a machine shop that I have planned in front of the Roundhouse.
Next came the process of gluing the wall sections together. I only got four sections together and I had to see what it looked like in place on the layout.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-200314121141.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-200314121108.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-200314121230.jpeg)
Then it was back to the workbench and lots of gluing and measuring and more gluing. You can't have enough weights and squares for a project this size.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190314134508.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-200314121505.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-200314121415.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-200314121330.jpeg)
The next step was to paint the floor under the tracks black - simulates repair pits under the track. Then the track was laid and wired.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-200314121638.jpeg)
For the floor area between the tracks I chose to go with a wood plank flooring. The wood was glued to a cardboard base and then cut to the right size and fitted between the track sections. The stain for the floor was alcohol and ink. I used different ratios of A&I to simulate oil spills etc. I didn't forget the nail holes even though no one is going to see them. But now we all know they are there.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-200314122006.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-200314122006.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-200314122127.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-200314122127.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-200314122042.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-200314122042.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-200314122223.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-200314122223.jpeg)
Today I finished the cabinet for the DCC system. Tomorrow it's back to laying track and I may install part of the DCC system.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-200314215343.jpeg)
With the completion of the two side walls and the back it was time to add the interior framing. After buying the strip wood for this part of the project I decided that I need a better way of cutting it than my chopper. I purchased this miter saw from Micro-Mark and so far it has worked out real well. Nice clean square cuts and the angle setup is very accurate and easy.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314104059.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314104157.jpeg)
The first step in the interior framing was to build a gluing fixture so each one of the trusses was the same. I have built many fixtures from styrene this was an experiment with building it out of wood. For a fixture this size I found it faster and easier out of wood.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314104006.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314104447.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314104256.jpeg)
The production run begins - notice that all of the pieces to the truss are cut and put in number cups so I could run a mini-assembly line.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314104544.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314104653.jpeg)
And here are the results.
The next step in the project was actually assembling the interior frame of the roundhouse. As with the rest of this project, lots of clamps, weights, and measuring twice. This series of pictures tells the story of this process.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314104824.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314104917.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314105015.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314105155.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314105305.jpeg)
Next step, the roof and the cross beams. Here again I first made a gluing fixture.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314105404.jpeg)
Please notice that I'm using the square the Hal Reynolds gave us at the EXPO. Thanks Hal, it works.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314105451.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314105557.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314105655.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314105745.jpeg)
After the gluing fixture was built and tested we went into the production mode again. Here is a series of pictures that describe the process.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314110918.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314110957.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314111101.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314111211.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314111301.jpeg)
Completed upper roof ready for the paint booth.
The upper roof in the paint booth - this is a big roof - I painted it with the standard camouflage flat black paint.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314111518.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314111438.jpeg)
I need a bigger paint booth for this project.
After many hours of fitting and clamping I had this big roof fitting just the way I wanted it. Then after it sat for a few weeks 1 corner lifted about 1/8 of an inch just from the change in temperature and or humidity. I then finished all the hole drilling and LED prep work and glued it down. I basically tacked it down with glue. I could remove it if necessary, but the plan is to leave it alone. All of the interior detail for this area of the layout will be in the sister building to this - a detailed machine shop that I have planned. It will be a much smaller building which will allow for a removable roof.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314111611.jpeg)
The lower or front roof was built right in place by adding the rafters and then the sheeting on top. I got a couple of sections completed and then added one of the front castings. I wanted to test getting an engine or something in the back of the roundhouse out without removing the roof. The test was successful so I went forward with the plan.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314111924.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314111709.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314111814.jpeg)
I sure like the looks of that locomotive in the door way of the roundhouse.
Finishing off the lower roof and assembling the front castings were done in parallel. I put a casting in place with the epoxy, then added a few more roof boards as it dried.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314111814.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314111814.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314112317.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314112317.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314112232.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314112232.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314112406.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314112406.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314112440.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314112440.jpeg)
That's enough of the Stone Roundhouse story for today - time to get back at laying track on the layout. I should be able to complete the build story to-date the next time I post.
John,
Loved the roundhouse story and to get the spare pieces from George was a great bonus. The Ebay prices aren't as bad as they once were. I purchased both of the SRMW Roundhouses. I was going to build the Brick Roundhouse when I noticed the Ebay prices going up and up and up!
I sold the brick one to a guy in CA for $2,300.00 and the stone one to someone in AR for $1,850.00. Yes, I am a capitalist!
Your roundhouse is a thing of beauty! Well done John!
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on March 21, 2014, 06:04:45 PM
John,
Loved the roundhouse story and to get the spare pieces from George was a great bonus. The Ebay prices aren't as bad as they once were. I purchased both of the SRMW Roundhouses. I was going to build the Brick Roundhouse when I noticed the Ebay prices going up and up and up!
I sold the brick one to a guy in CA for $2,300.00 and the stone one to someone in AR for $1,850.00. Yes, I am a capitalist!
Your roundhouse is a thing of beauty! Well done John!
Tom ;D
I agree fully with your last sentence!!
But that feller in AR darn sure wasn't related to the Ledbetters - they're too tight!
That's about what they were thinkin' of spendin' for some used lumber to build a real new house.
Of course, that didn't include the cost of buildin' a fancy new outhouse! ::) ::) ::)
They take their outhouse bidness serussly!! ;D ;D ;D ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on March 21, 2014, 06:04:45 PM
John,
Loved the roundhouse story and to get the spare pieces from George was a great bonus. The Ebay prices aren't as bad as they once were. I purchased both of the SRMW Roundhouses. I was going to build the Brick Roundhouse when I noticed the Ebay prices going up and up and up!
I sold the brick one to a guy in CA for $2,300.00 and the stone one to someone in AR for $1,850.00. Yes, I am a capitalist!
Your roundhouse is a thing of beauty! Well done John!
Tom ;D
You did the right thing Tom. I would need two kits for what I have here and would still have to make some of my own castings. I can buy a lot of mold materials and strip wood for 3700 dollars. I do want to make the point that buying the original kits from Bob would have been much cheaper than buying the materials to scratch build this. I'm not counting my time - I have the price of the kit in just the castings that I have purchased. Windows, roof vents, hinges for the doors, detail parts, and the list goes on. Bob will get an order from me every year he chooses to put out a kit - he does a great job with them.
Quote from: gnatshop on March 21, 2014, 06:56:07 PM
Quote from: ACL1504 on March 21, 2014, 06:04:45 PM
John,
Loved the roundhouse story and to get the spare pieces from George was a great bonus. The Ebay prices aren't as bad as they once were. I purchased both of the SRMW Roundhouses. I was going to build the Brick Roundhouse when I noticed the Ebay prices going up and up and up!
I sold the brick one to a guy in CA for $2,300.00 and the stone one to someone in AR for $1,850.00. Yes, I am a capitalist!
Your roundhouse is a thing of beauty! Well done John!
Tom ;D
I agree fully with your last sentence!!
But that feller in AR darn sure wasn't related to the Ledbetters - they're too tight!
That's about what they were thinkin' of spendin' for some used lumber to build a real new house.
Of course, that didn't include the cost of buildin' a fancy new outhouse! ::) ::) ::)
They take their outhouse bidness serussly!! ;D ;D ;D ;D
David
All I can say is it good to have the old David back. Hope your feeling better.
At this point the walls were up and the roof was on.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314171746.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314171746.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314113514.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314113514.jpeg)
And it was time to fill all the gaps with mortar or in this case modeling clay
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314112522.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314112522.jpeg)
I approached this process just like I would in the 1:1 world with the tools pictured below. It worked well and I was very happy with the results with the hardening modeling clay.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314113211.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314113211.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314113255.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314113255.jpeg)
The clay going on.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314113355.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314113355.jpeg)
After cleanup and painting.
At about this point the window castings were cleaned up and sent to the paint booth. I spent some big $$ on window castings.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314110639.jpeg)
The color is box car red.
Here are a couple more pictures after the cleaning and painting of the base Neutral Gray. You may have noticed that the roof line on the upper level and the roof on the lower level do not match. I have a plan - I need more room to frame in the windows the go between the two levels so I lowered the roof on the lower level. I will be trimming the stone work and adding a trim piece to make the roof lines match. I also should point out that the over hang is less on my design to match the prototypical roundhouses in the area I'm modeling. Over hang equals ice buildup in the winter in the North Country.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314112821.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314112734.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-220314131822.jpeg)
Quincy & Torch Lake RR Hancock, Michigan
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-220314131906.gif)
Copper Range Roundhouse, Houghton, Michigan
This brings us to the final painting/weathering procedure that I have decided to go with on this build. First all of the castings have been primed with a Neutral Gray Acrylic.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314114204.jpeg)
The second step is to paint the wall a second coat of dark burnt umber using a sponge which leaves areas where the gray shows through. Here is a picture of the paint tube and the wall after this step. This is more of a blotting of the paint on the wall with the sponge.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314114032.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314114032.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314114109.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314114109.jpeg)
On my computer screen the last picture in the last post looks more gray than it does with my eyes on the model. Lighting, camera, who knows.
The third step is to add a wash of 2 part country grey, 5 parts sand, and 5 parts water. Again I have added pictures of the two paints and the wall after this step. The picture shows the wall after three steps on the right and after the final step on the left.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314113944.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314113944.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314113910.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314113910.jpeg)
The final step is to make use of the pan pastels that I bought at the EXPO. I was pretty happy with the look after the first three steps but I wanted to make the mortar joints more real. Stone work of this kind required lots of mortar to makeup for the irregular shaped stones that were used. The procedure I used for the pan pastel was to apply it with a number 6 brush working it into the mortar joints. This looks really bad until you wash the pan pastel off the stone face with a damp sponge. The sponge I used can be seen on the roof of the roundhouse in the pictures below. At this point I plan to finish all of the roundhouse stonework in this way. I will then add some details like rust, soot, etc. using chalks as a final step.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-220314134746.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-220314134746.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314113556.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314113556.jpeg)
This is a picture of the what have I done step - the pan pastels have been added. Then I cleaned the faces of the stone with a wet sponge.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314113639.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314113639.jpeg)
Here is a picture of the pan pastel container and the color used.
With this post we have caught up to the current state for this project. I'm currently working on adding the tar paper roof and building a gluing fixture for the doors I plan to build for the front of the roundhouse. More pictures to follow as I make progress.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314112915.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210314113026.jpeg)
I don't know John.........
Plaid paint on cut stone? ? ? ? ?
see ya
Bob
Quote from: bparrish on March 22, 2014, 03:52:08 PM
I don't know John.........
Plaid paint on cut stone? ? ? ? ?
see ya Bob
Riff-Raff Big Grins for Li'l Bobby P.!!!! 8) 8) 8)
Quote from: gnatshop on March 22, 2014, 05:40:00 PM
Quote from: bparrish on March 22, 2014, 03:52:08 PM
I don't know John.........
Plaid paint on cut stone? ? ? ? ?
see ya Bob
Riff-Raff Big Grins for Li'l Bobby P.!!!! 8) 8) 8)
Well the night crew is here!
I made some progress on the track laying today. We have reached the point were it will get challenging because all of the lower level main line has been completed - now it's the upper levels that need to be completed.
Here are a few pictures from the track laying on the layout.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-260314213638.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-260314213638.jpeg)
This first picture is the view from the top of Fox Run Trestle looking a West. The test car has just been over the track for the first time.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-260314213746.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-260314213746.jpeg)
A bridge has just been positioned for installation ahead of the track laying crew.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-260314213840.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-260314213840.jpeg)
The tracks have been laid to the base of the mountains. As you can see from the picture we are still doing some blasting work to get the tracks in just the right place.
Big day on the S&S tomorrow - Wayne Olson is back from AZ so we can start double teaming the ballasting. Also have a group coming over from the local chapter of the NMRA to see what I'm up too.
Amazing. Next step looks to involve dynamite ;)
You and Wayne be careful!
John
John......
Great rocks.
Thanx
Bob
John and Bob
Thanks for watching the thread - today we turned the corner at the base of the mountain - without using dynamite! We had a great work session - but I think I will be feeling it in the morning.
Here is another picture of the area I'm working on - you can see better why we got away without the dynamite. Today we also finished the track for the upper level that is inside the mountain in this area.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-270314174738.jpeg)
John...
You're making great progress..
very cool
Bob
John,
Now those are mountains! Looks great!
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on March 27, 2014, 07:26:11 PM
John,
Now those are mountains! Looks great!
Tom ;D
Tom
Thanks - they will look better with some trees and talus - but one step at a time. First we need to get the trains running!
Today was another track laying day - everything was inside the mountains but tomorrow I should be through with the inside bench work and track. My back will be very happy!
Quote from: S&S RR on March 27, 2014, 08:12:20 PM
Quote from: ACL1504 on March 27, 2014, 07:26:11 PM
John, Now those are mountains! Looks great!
Tom ;D
Tom
Thanks - they will look better with some trees and talus - but one step at a time. First we need to get the trains running!
John, don't torture Li'l Tommy with thoughts of trains runnin' !
He's still fixin' the walls that he tore up with his demolition.
He's a lot better at buidin' scenery than he is at tearin' it out - think scratched and scarred out walls - a sheet rocker's nightmare!!
Hope he can show his badge and get a discount on them big cans of joint compound! ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
David
I know just how Tom feels - it has been over 5 years since trains have been running on my layout. I have run test engines on the lower level so far but we are making progress every day. ;D
Today I completed the installation of the double track through the hanging rock tunnel. I also installed the bridge over the rock ravine.
The other big accomplishment for today was the snow melted away from the door of the gazebo and we started the grill! ;D 8) :o ;) :)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-310314211055.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-310314211239.jpeg)
I finally got the bench work cleaned off in the area of the future town of Sellios. I will be putting the track work in this area in the next few weeks so I needed to finalize the design for the track - at least the main lines and switches for the sidings. In these views will also be the town of Van Gelder which will be on the far left on the opposite side of the river. You need to use your imagination to see the river in the mountain valley. All of the plywood that you can see in these pictures will be removed to make way for the track work, structures and scenery. The terrain can go up and down from the mainline track work as desired. The plywood is from my last layout - I did remove it like Tom - I just built on top of it.
I made a very detailed dimensioned sketch of this are this evening and plan to draw this area up in 3D CAD so I can play around with structure design and placement as this area takes shape. I have a few structures placed in my mind already and will share that as the final plan develops. The area available for the town is 10 feet long by 5 feet deep.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-020414220543.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-020414220543.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-020414220425.jpeg)
I also have a question for the forum - I have always used plywood for the base for all of my structure builds. For this area I'm considering switching to foam but my first look into purchasing foam bases was at my LHS this week. I could by hardwood plywood for what they wanted for a piece of the foam sold by Woodland Scenics. I would welcome a discussion here of foam bases; where you buy your material, what you buy, and the advantages over plywood bases.
I am using 1 1/2 inch foam insulation board. I get it in 4 by 8 sheets and they cost about $13. I put this on a open grid frame work made of 1 by 4's on 1 foot centers. I can sit on it when it is together and not break through. I have used this method for years and would never go back to plywood. The foamboard is also very stable and I never had it swell or shrink. Check out the last post on my Milwaukee Road thread, I have a picture of a new section on there. I get the foambard at my local lumber yard..
8)
Quote from: ak-milw on April 02, 2014, 11:19:01 PM
I am using 1 1/2 inch foam insulation board. I get it in 4 by 8 sheets and they cost about $13. I put this on a open grid frame work made of 1 by 4's on 1 foot centers. I can sit on it when it is together and not break through. I have used this method for years and would never go back to plywood. The foamboard is also very stable and I never had it swell or shrink. Check out the last post on my Milwaukee Road thread, I have a picture of a new section on there. I get the foambard at my local lumber yard..
8)
Andy
Thanks for the input - I'm going to be looking in to my options.
I've used the Gatorfoam, plywood, and the foam insulation board (2") for diorama bases. They all have advantages/disadvantages. The foam can be carved below the level of the structure, I'm not keen on trying to carve the Gatorfoam as it would lose it's strength. The plywood is strongest, but heavy. For future scenery areas, I'm using the insulation foam.
Jeff
Jeff
Good to hear from you, and thanks for the input. I'm seeing blue, pink, and white insulation board and need to figure out what is different about them other than color. In this area of the layout I want to have areas where the terrain is lower than the current plywood base so the foam would make that much easier to accomplish.
John,
First, your mountians are fantastic as I've alreay stated. Now I have to say the coloring and naturalness, if that's a word, are impressive to say the least!
As far as planting structures I've used everything from 1/2", 3/4" plywood and gator foam. When I used the plywood as a base that was all we had back in the days. However, with the Gatorfoam material being added to our list of hobby supplies, it is the best way to go! It's strong and will support a good deal of weight, within reason of course.
I'm with Dr. Jeff in that I wouldn't attempt to cut it. I cut mine the size of the diorama to be used on the layout and use the terrain around the structure to be positive or negative scenery.
My .02 cents worth!
Tom ;D
Tom
Thanks for your input and kind words - I need to do some experimenting. I'm real comfortable with using plywood but I want to try something new if I find it's easier. I want to change the terrain in this area so it doesn't look like mountains on top of a table.
John, the different colors are from different Manufactures. I use the pink from Corning.
8)
When using Gatorfoam, be aware that it outgasses formaldehyde in small quantities. This won't bother most people, but a friend of mine started using it and then wondered (out loud on another forum) why he felt sick after spending a while in the train room. I found the MSDS on the web and posted a reply. He went off to the Dr. and it turned out he had (or had developed) a formaldehyde sensitivity. Out went the Gatorfoam and he's enjoying his railroad much more.
Quote from: ak-milw on April 03, 2014, 11:22:11 PM
John, the different colors are from different Manufactures. I use the pink from Corning.
8)
Thanks Andy
I see a number of people using the pink stuff.
Quote from: jbvb on April 03, 2014, 11:32:16 PM
When using Gatorfoam, be aware that it outgasses formaldehyde in small quantities. This won't bother most people, but a friend of mine started using it and then wondered (out loud on another forum) why he felt sick after spending a while in the train room. I found the MSDS on the web and posted a reply. He went off to the Dr. and it turned out he had (or had developed) a formaldehyde sensitivity. Out went the Gatorfoam and he's enjoying his railroad much more.
James
Thanks for the input! I should tell everyone that the reason you don't see foam in use on the layout is that I managed in the auto industry and we cut the patterns for stamping dies from white foam. We found that the pattern makers had a very high risk for colon cancer and we started paying for them to be screened more often. I'm not sure that the link to the foam has been verified, but it has always been in the back of my mind. My father died from colon cancer.
I spent 12 hours today reviewing my track plan one more time before the ballasting starts and we get real committed. I had two more items on my list of things I wanted to change going in to the day. They both involved some hidden track that ran inside the mountains to change the track elevation between the upper and lower mainlines. I found a way with a little bench work change that both will be fixed and the trains will change elevation out where we can see them. I'm really happy with the design change. I will post pictures when I get the change implemented.
I was reading Tom's build thread for his The Atlantic and Southern Build (http://modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=53.msg5883#msg5883) last night and realized I hadn't tested the new track with my long Pullman cars. So today we ran the test with 6 - 40' passenger cars and 3 - 85' Pullman cars. I found three areas that need some work in the backup test. The Pullman car test has now been added to the Superior & Seattle track testing procedures. It will be called "Tom's AS Pullman Car Test (TAPCT)". Thanks to ACL1504 (http://modelersforum.com/index.php?action=profile;u=24) for the help in getting this track work right.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-070414164656.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-070414164550.jpeg)
Quote from: jbvb on April 03, 2014, 11:32:16 PM
When using Gatorfoam, be aware that it outgasses formaldehyde in small quantities. This won't bother most people, but a friend of mine started using it and then wondered (out loud on another forum) why he felt sick after spending a while in the train room. I found the MSDS on the web and posted a reply. He went off to the Dr. and it turned out he had (or had developed) a formaldehyde sensitivity. Out went the Gatorfoam and he's enjoying his railroad much more.
Wow, Thanks for the information.
Tom ;D
Quote from: S&S RR on April 07, 2014, 05:07:28 PM
I was reading Tom's build thread for his The Atlantic and Southern Build (http://modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=53.msg5883#msg5883) last night and realized I hadn't tested the new track with my long Pullman cars. So today we ran the test with 6 - 40' passenger cars and 3 - 85' Pullman cars. I found three areas that need some work in the backup test. The Pullman car test has now been added to the Superior & Seattle track testing procedures. It will be called "Tom's AS Pullman Car Test (TAPCT)". Thanks to ACL1504 (http://modelersforum.com/index.php?action=profile;u=24) for the help in getting this track work right.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-070414164656.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-070414164656.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-070414164550.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-070414164550.jpeg)
John,
Thank you for the award! I'll wear the TAPCT pin with much pride! I found that, for me, proper planning pervents piss poor performance - The theory of the 6 P's!
I'm happy to be of help even though by accident.
Tom ;D
What about the "Tom's Back AS-ward test?" It's a bit more descriptive, I think :-)
dave
Good morning John,
All I can say is WOW. I get a better feeling for what you are building in your basement and it is awesome. Looking marvelous. Keep posting more pictures of the overall room.
Frank / Erieman
Quote from: deemery on April 08, 2014, 10:14:44 AM
What about the "Tom's Back AS-ward test?" It's a bit more descriptive, I think :-)
dave
Dave
You are correct - but I was doing my best to be nice. Actually, it is a great way to test your track work. Those 3 axel trucks find every little problem in your track. Thanks for following along.
Quote from: Erieman on April 08, 2014, 11:33:49 AM
Good morning John,
All I can say is WOW. I get a better feeling for what you are building in your basement and it is awesome. Looking marvelous. Keep posting more pictures of the overall room.
Frank / Erieman
Frank
Thanks - I will take some overall pictures when I get through with this track work phase. The place is a mess right now with tools and stuff covering most of the available surface area. I'm suffering from too many projects going at the same time.
John.....
I and a few others here in Boise have a pretty proven way to testing track work.........
Push 'em.
It's not prototype but testing is not operations.... We push strings of cars at various speeds for testing .......
Including all ahead flanktastic.
It shows stuff right now ! ! !
see ya
Bob
Quote from: bparrish on April 08, 2014, 01:47:52 PM
John.....
I and a few others here in Boise have a pretty proven way to testing track work.........
Push 'em.
It's not prototype but testing is not operations.... We push strings of cars at various speeds for testing .......
Including all ahead flanktastic.
It shows stuff right now ! ! !
see ya
Bob
Bob
Actually, I forgot to mention that I'm the mode of power during this testing phase. And you are correct it shows stuff right now. It allows me to test the track before wiring - but it doesn't substitute for running the locomotives through everything, especially the modern steam engines. I'm fixing and area right now that failed the locomotive test.
If you find the 6-wheel trucks are too sensitive, you can adjust that a bit by using an Exxact Socket (from Reboxx, MicroMark has a knock-off) to open up the center set of bearings a bit. This is easier done when building the trucks from a kit, though (all my Branchline Pullmans were bought before they started doing RTR).
James
Thanks for the tip - I will give it a try if I have problems after the track is where I want it to be. Thanks for watching.
I bought the Proxxon Chop and Mitre Saw. Don't use it very much; but when you need it, it is good to have on hand
Quote from: John B on April 09, 2014, 01:09:48 PM
I bought the Proxxon Chop and Mitre Saw. Don't use it very much; but when you need it, it is good to have on hand
John
Now that I'm back working on structures my saw is getting lots of use. I will soon be building 7 trestles and I know it will get a workout with that project. Thanks for following the thread.
John,
I've done all of the above to get my heavyweights to run smooth.
I use the "push" test forward and backward as well as using motive power, after all, I won't be pushing by hand when actually running the trains.
I also use the tool from Micro-Mart, well one like it anyway. It works on the passenger and freight car trucks. It does remove some very small flash and pieces of metal that sticks to some of the Walthers heavyweight trucks.
On the heavyweights I've even cut into the uinderframe rib so the trucks swing more freely!
Over the years I've found that it's just easier to fix the cars prior to putting them on the track. It takes more time but well worth the effort in the long run.
My 5 cents worth!
Tom
Quote from: ACL1504 on April 09, 2014, 03:47:41 PM
John,
I've done all of the above to get my heavyweights to run smooth.
I use the "push" test forward and backward as well as using motive power, after all, I won't be pushing by hand when actually running the trains.
I also use the tool from Micro-Mart, well one like it anyway. It works on the passenger and freight car trucks. It does remove some very small flash and pieces of metal that sticks to some of the Walthers heavyweight trucks.
On the heavyweights I've even cut into the uinderframe rib so the trucks swing more freely!
Over the years I've found that it's just easier to fix the cars prior to putting them on the track. It takes more time but well worth the effort in the long run.
My 5 cents worth!
Tom
Tom
Thanks for the input - I did many tests with my string of passenger cars today - the train was made up of 6-60 foot passengers cars right out of the box, and 3 - 85 foot Pullmans that had been tuned. Running with DC power the forward test went great. In the big looping turn a 48 inch radius curve proved to much for the 3 wheel trucks in reverse mode with the complete train - too much side thrust. With 6 cars I had no problems. It could be that RTR right out of the box cars had issues that were causing drag. Any way I was happy with the way the track performed. Here are a few pictures of the testing. It sure was nice to see a train running on the layout.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-090414165142.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-090414165142.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-090414165639.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-090414165639.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-090414165413.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-090414165413.jpeg)
As you can see, the tools and the "code cart" were ready just in case during the testing.
John,
You mean that even on a 48" radius the cars performed poorly in backing? Wow, I never would have figured that!
The side thrust is what caused my problems in reverse. On the early Walthers heavyweights the coupler pockets were square and the end of three wheel truck hit the pocket and restricted the turn of the truck. I shaved some off the corner of the pocket and this helped. Walthers eventually realized the problem as the newer passenger cars have the corners notched/rounded off. Check your cars and see if this applies to your cars.
Tom
The mountains are massive and they look very natural. The GN looks natural along side as well. Love those photos.
Tom ;D
Tom
The track in this area completely wraps around so all 9 cars were in the curve at the same time and the trucks had not been tuned on 6 of the 9 cars. Normal size - mountain railroad passenger trains of 4 cars went through fine in both the reverse and forward modes. I will check the cars and tune them up before I test with them in other areas. Thanks again.
The "6 wheel truck AS-backwards test" has me thinking: What about a track test car made of acrylic, that's as long as my longest car, with some 6-wheel trucks? Moving that back-and-forth (by hand and by loco) might be a very good way to inspect track.
dave
Quote from: deemery on April 09, 2014, 05:49:14 PM
The "6 wheel truck AS-backwards test" has me thinking: What about a track test car made of acrylic, that's as long as my longest car, with some 6-wheel trucks? Moving that back-and-forth (by hand and by loco) might be a very good way to inspect track.
dave
Dave,
That's a great idea but you still need the coupler pocket and the center sill in place to see if the trucks are being jambed by them as well.
I would show pictures of what I did to mine but they are still packed away!
Tom ;D
Quote from: deemery on April 09, 2014, 05:49:14 PM
The "6 wheel truck AS-backwards test" has me thinking: What about a track test car made of acrylic, that's as long as my longest car, with some 6-wheel trucks? Moving that back-and-forth (by hand and by loco) might be a very good way to inspect track.
dave
Dave
Great minds think alike - I have one of the clear acrylic cars with 4 wheel trucks and earlier in the week I took the 6 wheel trucks off one of the passenger cars and mounted them on the clear acrylic car. It works well for finding areas where there are bumps in the track that may bridge the 6 wheel trucks but the issue with my layout was long radii where the side thrust gets real high because of the length of the cars and then the 6 wheel trucks tend to ride up the flange and derail. This will not be an issue for short trains and since my layout is a mountain railroad I think I will be fine.
Quote from: ACL1504 on April 09, 2014, 07:14:49 PM
Quote from: deemery on April 09, 2014, 05:49:14 PM
The "6 wheel truck AS-backwards test" has me thinking: What about a track test car made of acrylic, that's as long as my longest car, with some 6-wheel trucks? Moving that back-and-forth (by hand and by loco) might be a very good way to inspect track.
dave
Dave,
That's a great idea but you still need the coupler pocket and the center sill in place to see if the trucks are being jambed by them as well.
I would show pictures of what I did to mine but they are still packed away!
Tom ;D
Tom
I followed up and I do have clearance issues with these new cars. Another issue is that some of the cars have 6 wheel trucks and some have 4 wheel trucks so the pivot point is different. I noticed that most of the problems where with the 6 wheel trucks when they were coupled to a car with 4 wheel trucks. I will tune these cars before they go on the layout - for now it's back to laying and wiring track.
Quote from: S&S RR on April 09, 2014, 07:26:03 PM
Quote from: deemery on April 09, 2014, 05:49:14 PM
The "6 wheel truck AS-backwards test" has me thinking: What about a track test car made of acrylic, that's as long as my longest car, with some 6-wheel trucks? Moving that back-and-forth (by hand and by loco) might be a very good way to inspect track.
dave
Dave
Great minds think alike - I have one of the clear acrylic cars with 4 wheel trucks and earlier in the week I took the 6 wheel trucks off one of the passenger cars and mounted them on the clear acrylic car. It works well for finding areas where there are bumps in the track that may bridge the 6 wheel trucks but the issue with my layout was long radii where the side thrust gets real high because of the length of the cars and then the 6 wheel trucks tend to ride up the flange and derail. This will not be an issue for short trains and since my layout is a mountain railroad I think I will be fine.
My "contribution" is the idea to make the acrylic body as long as the longest car on the layout, e.g. 80' if that's what you run. It's interesting that the combination of 6 wheel and 4 wheel cars cause problems.
Thinking about this from a manufacturing perspective, the big thing is "ripping" acrylic to the appropriate width, so you can cut off appropriate lengths. A kit for the "AS-backwards test cars" would need to include amounts of acrylic strip of the appropriate width and bolsters that are glued to the strip once it's cut to the length you need. Modeler decides where to glue the bolsters (the truck pivot point is a key decision!), glues them on, then drills and taps for both truck screws and coupler mounting boxes.
dave
Quote from: deemery on April 10, 2014, 08:57:33 AM
Quote from: S&S RR on April 09, 2014, 07:26:03 PM
Quote from: deemery on April 09, 2014, 05:49:14 PM
The "6 wheel truck AS-backwards test" has me thinking: What about a track test car made of acrylic, that's as long as my longest car, with some 6-wheel trucks? Moving that back-and-forth (by hand and by loco) might be a very good way to inspect track.
dave
Dave
This would be a good thing to have - I would also make it wide enough with gauges to make sure there was enough clearance for the scenery along the rails. A prototype just might show up on the Superior & Seattle.
Great minds think alike - I have one of the clear acrylic cars with 4 wheel trucks and earlier in the week I took the 6 wheel trucks off one of the passenger cars and mounted them on the clear acrylic car. It works well for finding areas where there are bumps in the track that may bridge the 6 wheel trucks but the issue with my layout was long radii where the side thrust gets real high because of the length of the cars and then the 6 wheel trucks tend to ride up the flange and derail. This will not be an issue for short trains and since my layout is a mountain railroad I think I will be fine.
My "contribution" is the idea to make the acrylic body as long as the longest car on the layout, e.g. 80' if that's what you run. It's interesting that the combination of 6 wheel and 4 wheel cars cause problems.
Thinking about this from a manufacturing perspective, the big thing is "ripping" acrylic to the appropriate width, so you can cut off appropriate lengths. A kit for the "AS-backwards test cars" would need to include amounts of acrylic strip of the appropriate width and bolsters that are glued to the strip once it's cut to the length you need. Modeler decides where to glue the bolsters (the truck pivot point is a key decision!), glues them on, then drills and taps for both truck screws and coupler mounting boxes.
dave
Hi there,
nice progress on your layout.....the rockwork is fantastic...
Regards,Chris
Quote from: Twist67 on April 10, 2014, 09:35:51 AM
Hi there,
nice progress on your layout.....the rockwork is fantastic...
Regards,Chris
Chris
Thanks for the kind words and for watching the thread. I'm looking forward to getting the track work done so I can start doing the detail work.
One more thought for the "AS-backwards test car" - Mount a clearance gauge on it, to check lateral clearances, height, etc. You'd probably want a way to mount that on the end of the car where the swing on a curve would be greatest.
dave
John and Dave
Kadee makes a coupler extension box for long high end kick cars.
I think it is number 459. It's hard to find on their page.
I have very tight radius turns in my trolley division, 10 - 11 inches and I need to watch for couplers at their limits for derailment issues.
See ya
Bob
Quote from: bparrish on April 11, 2014, 01:14:53 PM
John and Dave
Kadee makes a coupler extension box for long high end kick cars.
I think it is number 459. It's hard to find on their page.
I have very tight radius turns in my trolley division, 10 - 11 inches and I need to watch for couplers at their limits for derailment issues.
See ya
Bob
Dave and Bob
I think we have some great ideas for the ultimate test car. I made some modification to mine - I will try to take some pictures - the bottom line is that the Pullman cars in reverse seems to be one of the worst case tests for testing new track and I will be continuing to use it on my track work before I start ballasting.
Today, I spent the day removing the last of the bench work from my old layout in the area which will some day be the town of Sellios. I decided to remove all the patch work and start over with fresh bench work before I start adding all those expensive kits over the next few years. I also made a run to Home Depot for plywood. I decide to stick with wood after pricing the foam materials. The only advantage with the foam is the weight and with all the plaster I have to hold up what's a few pounds of plywood. I will post some pictures tomorrow - I got my orders that I was taking the boss to dinner before I got a chance to take some new ones today.
Quote from: S&S RR on April 11, 2014, 08:26:27 PM
I decide to stick with wood after pricing the foam materials. The only advantage with the foam is the weight and with all the plaster I have to hold up what's a few pounds of plywood. I will post some pictures tomorrow - I got my orders that I was taking the boss to dinner before I got a chance to take some new ones today.
John,
I've made the decision to stay with plywood as well. I just like the support but I do use the Gatorboard for many of the structures bases.
Now, I've learned as well that the boss needs to be happy! Our trip to the Red Claw (Red Lobster) last night was for that specific purpose. Nuff said!
Tom ;D
As promised, here are a few pictures of what I'm doing to complete the track work and lay the foundations for the structures in the town of Sellios. In this first picture you can see what the area looked like two days ago when I started this process.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-120414184400.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-120414184400.jpeg)
In the following three pictures you can see what it looks like today. All of the original bench work was removed (this area was part of my previous layout) - and I'm replacing it with the actual base boards for the structures I plan on adding in this area. In this way I can lay out the whole town and make sure everything fits the way I have it pictured in my mind. The mainline track work will be completed in this area and a diagram of each siding will be added to the base boards, along with the roads, river and any other feature that needs to have space in this area. As I build the structures, I will remove the base board and take it to my workbench. It becomes the lot or piece of property available for each structure. The structures will be built to fit either by building a kit, kit bashing a kit, or scratch building.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-120414184519.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-120414184519.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-120414184608.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-120414184608.jpeg)
You can also see the wiring from the main control panel which runs from here to the three remote control panels. The area under the layout is also used for storage when I'm not working in area.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-120414184701.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-120414184701.jpeg)
The rock work, tunnel portals, and retaining walls on the far right of this picture ( the area that is partially opened up) is also from the old layout and will be covered with scenery (trees and grass). The few trees you see in this picture are "test plants" to get a fell for the size and types of trees I want to add in these areas. I'm also playing around with the season, the plan right now is going to be fall with the aspens turning in this area.
As I get further along with bench work and base boards for this area it will be easier to see my plan. I will post progress pictures as I go along.
Quote from: S&S RR on April 12, 2014, 07:16:49 PM
As I get further along with bench work and base boards for this area it will be easier to see my plan. I will post progress pictures as I go along.
John,
Wonderful stuff my friend. Isn't it great to be retired so you can do this full time or anytime you want? Well, unless the Boss has you taking her to dinner.
I'll be leaving the State Attorney's Office at the end of December. That will be my final retirement and then I'll be a full time empire builder.
Tom ;D
John, you are making steady progress looks good.
8)
Quote from: ACL1504 on April 12, 2014, 07:24:20 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on April 12, 2014, 07:16:49 PM
As I get further along with bench work and base boards for this area it will be easier to see my plan. I will post progress pictures as I go along.
John,
Wonderful stuff my friend. Isn't it great to be retired so you can do this full time or anytime you want? Well, unless the Boss has you taking her to dinner.
I'll be leaving the State Attorney's Office at the end of December. That will be my final retirement and then I'll be a full time empire builder.
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom
Yes- retirement is great. I have managed to stay retired for one year now, except for a few consulting jobs. I hope to keep this job another 50 years!
Quote from: ak-milw on April 12, 2014, 07:26:15 PM
John, you are making steady progress looks good.
8)
Andy
Thanks for watching. It is nice to see progress.
Hi John. I just caught up on your thread and was amazed at the scope of work you have taken on.
The mountains are awe inspiring and I hope that there won't be a shortage of plaster when I get around to doing that on my layout. ;D
Glad to see that you and Tom have got the passenger car pulling and pushing problem figured out.
Great work and I'll try to keep a closer watch in the future.
Very Impressive. Your rockies landscape are jsut awesome. In some way It's like John Allen revisited. BRAVO.
Eric Québec city
Good Morning John.
Great pictures!!! I recall you kidding me about when do I sleep after seeing my layout and house projects. Well the same to you my friend. :) :) :) Your layout is looking absolutely marvelous. The rock work is fabulous. Can't wait to see all the track and structures in place. Retirement does help to speed up the railroad progress, except when the boss wants me to finish the backyard project. I'll be working on both my layout and Russ's layout today, so progress in the yard will have to wait. Have a wonderful day in the basement.
Frank / Erieman
Quote from: GPdemayo on April 13, 2014, 10:52:12 AM
Hi John. I just caught up on your thread and was amazed at the scope of work you have taken on.
The mountains are awe inspiring and I hope that there won't be a shortage of plaster when I get around to doing that on my layout. ;D
Glad to see that you and Tom have got the passenger car pulling and pushing problem figured out.
Great work and I'll try to keep a closer watch in the future.
Thanks Greg
It is a very big project - just taking it a day at a time. I am enjoying it . If you have trouble getting plaster I know where to get it by the 100 lb bag. I will try to keep this thread up-to-date.
Quote from: EricQuebec on April 13, 2014, 11:12:56 AM
Very Impressive. Your rockies landscape are jsut awesome. In some way It's like John Allen revisited. BRAVO.
Eric Québec city
Thanks Eric
I have to admit that I'm a big John Allen fan and his work has had a big impact on what I'm doing.
Thanks for following the thread.
Quote from: Erieman on April 13, 2014, 11:29:48 AM
Good Morning John.
Great pictures!!! I recall you kidding me about when do I sleep after seeing my layout and house projects. Well the same to you my friend. :) :) :) Your layout is looking absolutely marvelous. The rock work is fabulous. Can't wait to see all the track and structures in place. Retirement does help to speed up the railroad progress, except when the boss wants me to finish the backyard project. I'll be working on both my layout and Russ's layout today, so progress in the yard will have to wait. Have a wonderful day in the basement.
Frank / Erieman
Good to hear from you a Frank. Yes, like I said when we were out there we have a lot in common. I think our wives are going to keep us both busy. My yard work season is just starting here. Mother Nature decided to trim the trees here last night so I spent the day cleaning up.
I am really enjoying the layout - once I get the trains running the progress will be more noticeable. Thanks again for the great ideas and following along with the build.
hi john
always great t o look at your rocwork ... the look fantastic and i must visit you one da to pick your brain on how-to's....
are those bragdon molds you are using
cheers
vikas
Quote from: S&S RR on April 13, 2014, 04:50:38 PM
Quote from: GPdemayo on April 13, 2014, 10:52:12 AM
Hi John. I just caught up on your thread and was amazed at the scope of work you have taken on.
The mountains are awe inspiring and I hope that there won't be a shortage of plaster when I get around to doing that on my layout. ;D
Glad to see that you and Tom have got the passenger car pulling and pushing problem figured out.
Great work and I'll try to keep a closer watch in the future.
Thanks Greg
It is a very big project - just taking it a day at a time. I am enjoying it . If you have trouble getting plaster I know where to get it by the 100 lb bag. I will try to keep this thread up-to-date.
Thanks John.....I'll keep it in mind, but I think Pegi would definitly put me in the home if I came in with a 100 lb bag of plaster! ;D
Quote from: vikas chander on April 14, 2014, 02:50:12 AM
hi john
always great t o look at your rocwork ... the look fantastic and i must visit you one da to pick your brain on how-to's....
are those bragdon molds you are using
cheers
vikas
Good to hear from you Vikas - yes many of my rock molds were from Bragdon. I also made a number of them myself and bought from other suppliers. Let me know when your travels take you this way.
Quote from: GPdemayo on April 14, 2014, 08:28:33 AM
Quote from: S&S RR on April 13, 2014, 04:50:38 PM
Quote from: GPdemayo on April 13, 2014, 10:52:12 AM
Hi John. I just caught up on your thread and was amazed at the scope of work you have taken on.
The mountains are awe inspiring and I hope that there won't be a shortage of plaster when I get around to doing that on my layout. ;D
Glad to see that you and Tom have got the passenger car pulling and pushing problem figured out.
Great work and I'll try to keep a closer watch in the future.
Thanks Greg
It is a very big project - just taking it a day at a time. I am enjoying it . If you have trouble getting plaster I know where to get it by the 100 lb bag. I will try to keep this thread up-to-date.
Thanks John.....I'll keep it in mind, but I think Pegi would definitly put me in the home if I came in with a 100 lb bag of plaster! ;D
Have Pegi talk to Amy when the time comes maybe we can all end up in the same home. ;D
Things have come to a stand still on the S&S - two days without power. :( Working with a flashlight does not cut it. :-\
Thanks to the power outage I switched to CAD version 1.0 for the layout of the town of Sellios. I think I will frame it and put it on the wall next to the CAD layout drawing. Actually, it is kind of nice to use the old drafting tools again.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-140414192840.jpeg)
Yep , you just can't beat drawing it out with a pencil!
8)
Quote from: ak-milw on April 14, 2014, 08:37:21 PM
Yep , you just can't beat drawing it out with a pencil!
8)
Andy
You sure have that right! I spent the day today trying different scenarios for the layout of my town of Sellios. I'm going to sleep on it tonight and if I still like it in the morning I'm going to start the implementation process. Wayne Olson spent the day with me today and it really helped to talk through the different options. We needed Frank's aka Erieman's sketching skills but we got through the process by making mockups out of scrap wood.
Today I started laying out the placement of the structures. The structures with elevation change are going in first and the starting point was placement of Bob VanGelder's Salyes Mill kit. Those of you that have built this one will recognize the base board and foam buildup. I will be building up the base boards for these first few structures with elevation change, to help with the placement of the bench work for the track. Now that this is in place I will layout the river and then the track placement. It will be a while before I get to the actual builds. Track work and trains running first.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170414182023.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170414182201.jpeg)
It's just the opposite for me, trains run last.
8)
Quote from: ak-milw on April 17, 2014, 07:01:18 PM
It's just the opposite for me, trains run last.
8)
Ditto. ... Anyway, I don't have any track yet.... :D
Andy and Eric
Interesting that you do the builds first and then put in the track work. I have found that I enjoy operations now that I have the time to get to other layouts in the area. Since I retired, I have networked with a number of the local model railroaders and I'm looking forward to the time when we can run trains on my layout. It is interesting how my track plan has changed as a result of the operations experience. My original track plan was a way of running trains through the structure displays. Now, I think it will be very interesting for operations and still display the structures the way I originally planned. It will be a while before operations is possible on the S&S, but steady progress is being made now. Thanks for following the thread.
....everytime I see your layout, I am more amazed than last time about your rockwork...beautiful!!
John, It's not that I put the track in afterwards, The track goes in first then the buildings and scenery. It is just I am working a section at a time so the track is always a dead end, till the next section.
Quote from: jlgrove on April 17, 2014, 08:04:22 PM
....everytime I see your layout, I am more amazed than last time about your rockwork...beautiful!!
Jeff thanks for the kind words. I'm looking forward to building the structures in front of the rock work which I hope will make it look even better.
As you know, I have plans for a few of your kits on the layout including the 999,999 out of 1,000,000 Round Barn. The kit that Jimmy D said would never sell. I know where it's going to go but it will be a few years before I get to that area on the layout. The plan is to build the kit and sell the box on ebay. I expect it will go for enough to pay for my next layout expansion.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170414201603.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170414201603.jpeg)
Quote from: ak-milw on April 17, 2014, 08:14:37 PM
John, It's not that I put the track in afterwards, The track goes in first then the buildings and scenery. It is just I am working a section at a time so the track is always a dead end, till the next section.
Andy
Now I understand. I admire your discipline, with me I had a working layout and then decided to do 5 years of plaster work and painting. So I'm anxious to have trains running again.
I spent the last 5 days in airports and visiting family - I had a great time and I spent the airport time working on the design and doing some research for my next expansion. I have to finish what is currently started before I can start the expansion - I wounder how far ahead I am with the design work? Tomorrow it's back to building.
Look at the good side - now you don't have to wait on the big-shots to decide when you designs
and ideas come to reality - now you're in control! ;D ;D ;D
Oh, chit - that can be a big burden, too! ::) ::) ::) ::) ::)
Quote from: gnatshop on April 22, 2014, 09:04:43 PM
Look at the good side - now you don't have to wait on the big-shots to decide when you designs
and ideas come to reality - now you're in control! ;D ;D ;D
Oh, chit - that can be a big burden, too! ::) ::) ::) ::) ::)
Yes 38 years of working and I finally got a boss I like.
John.......
These are the things you don't want to rush into.
I had a building principal when I was in the school district that I called Heinrich Himmler. Had him for five years. He would get his nose out of joint and go after really good people and get them fired for reasons that only he understood. Don't ever let anyone tell you that you can't fire a tenured teacher. This guy was a master at it.
Hope you can ride this guy that you like to retirement.
see ya
Bob
Quote from: bparrish on April 23, 2014, 11:14:15 PM
John.......
These are the things you don't want to rush into.
I had a building principal when I was in the school district that I called Heinrich Himmler. Had him for five years. He would get his nose out of joint and go after really good people and get them fired for reasons that only he understood. Don't ever let anyone tell you that you can't fire a tenured teacher. This guy was a master at it.
Hope you can ride this guy that you like to retirement.
see ya
Bob
Hi Bob
I retired one year ago - the boss I'm referring to is me - well at least when the real boss lets me. In the train room I usually get to be the boss!
John........
Funny stuff......... you blew that one right past me...........
I recall you having told me about working for Chrysler and such but I had forgotten if you were still working or not.
It's hard to believe that it will be 10 years in June that I've been out of it............
see ya
Bob
Quote from: bparrish on April 24, 2014, 06:41:28 PM
John........
Funny stuff......... you blew that one right past me...........
I recall you having told me about working for Chrysler and such but I had forgotten if you were still working or not.
It's hard to believe that it will be 10 years in June that I've been out of it............
see ya
Bob
It is amazing to me that something that consumed my life for so many years can be completely forgotten. I really don't think about my work life anymore. All the things that I wanted to be doing while I was working just filled in the 10 -12 hours a day 6 days a week - I'm just as busy - but much happier being busy. Speaking of busy my 30 min. on the forum are up off to work on the layout. I need to take some progress pictures today.
It is time for another progress picture so I decided to take a real work in progress shot (every tool I own within reach of the hatch I'm working through). I'm cutting the base bench work for the town of Sellios. I'm following the process that was typical of the small mountain towns. First the mountains, then the river running through the valley (the cutout for the river is on the right in the picture). Then the track is laid - usually along the river. And the final step which I'm starting now is laying out the streets. The streets from this view will take the same sweep as the river with the cross streets running perpendicular to the river. I have the initial location for a number of structures picked out, but their will be changes as I study this in HO scale instead of on a computer screen or in my design notebook.
On the right side of the picture the river bank will rise up all the way to the top of the rock formations (covering the last of the rock work and road bed from my previous layout - this area will be all trees and woods in contrast to all the rocks in the background. The hatch in the back will also be covered with trees and woods.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-290414163920.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-290414163920.jpeg)
You must be a little wild with those tools if you need a USS hard hat.
8)
John..........
This does not look like a OSHA approved site but .......... as shown.......... a guy can get a lot of stuff done.
Very cool
Thanx
Bob
Quote from: ak-milw on April 29, 2014, 08:07:24 PM
You must be a little wild with those tools if you need a USS hard hat.
8)
Ever since I made my little cart for travel under the layout the hard hat has become one of my most important tools ;) :) .
If you have been around steel mills you will notice that mine is white - you get that when the company you work for buys 4 billion dollars worth of steel a year.
Quote from: bparrish on April 29, 2014, 08:13:27 PM
John..........
This does not look like a OSHA approved site but .......... as shown.......... a guy can get a lot of stuff done.
Very cool
Thanx
Bob
I think I would be okay with OSHA as long as I had my hard hat on.
Just be glad that Candy ain't hangin' around here much - she'd insist that you wear
a PINK hard hat! ::) ::) ::)
David..........
I don't know if Candy would require a hard hat but she would at least spell it right and in correct word order.
see ya
Bob
Quote from: bparrish on April 30, 2014, 01:05:51 PM
David..........
I don't know if Candy would require a hard hat but she would at least spell it right and in correct word order.
see ya
Bob
OPPS
John...
Here is a photo of my bench after completing the throttle stand for the Falk yesterday.
I don't think I'm even insured to let people into that room.
I don't know about OSHA either.
Am I the only one? ? ? ? I can start with a clear work surface and before long I've worked my way off the edge bench with a trail of clutter behind. So I'll push it all back where it belongs and hit it again.
And for the record.......... there were no survivors after the grenade went off ! ! ! ! !
see ya
Bob
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/81-300414155718.jpeg)
Quote from: bparrish on April 30, 2014, 03:58:10 PM
John...
Here is a photo of my bench after completing the throttle stand for the Falk yesterday.
I don't think I'm even insured to let people into that room.
I don't know about OSHA either.
Am I the only one? ? ? ? I can start with a clear work surface and before long I've worked my way off the edge bench with a trail of clutter behind. So I'll push it all back where it belongs and hit it again.
And for the record.......... there were no survivors after the grenade went off ! ! ! ! !
see ya
Bob
Bob
It looks like my work bench. I know it's time to clean up for a restart when I open the drawers to get more table space. When I'm working on the back of the layout I hate having to crawl out to get something.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/81-300414155718.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/81-300414155718.jpeg)
Quote from: bparrish
.....there were no survivors after the grenade went off.....
BOOM
Quote from: GPdemayo on May 01, 2014, 08:16:58 AM
Quote from: bparrish
.....there were no survivors after the grenade went off.....
BOOM
Just as long as it wasn't the boiler blowing on that shinny new locomotive Bob's building.
Today I completed the bench work for the area that will someday be the town of Sellios. This is a picture of the area using panorama on my iPhone. I'm not sure why the coloring seems to change in bars.
Too give this picture some scale -this area is 9 feet deep by 15 feel long. It will take a few structures to fill this area. Trains will run at four different levels in this scene. The layout is designed to have a four level mainline with the scenery being one continuous scene.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-030514190322.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-030514190322.jpeg)
The following photographs slice this area into manageable sections. Moving from left to right. I'm currently in the process of laying out the locations for the roads. The first road will be 7 inches from the track with the cross roads running parallel to one another and perpendicular to the river at the farthest point from the front edge. I have made some of the bases for the kits I plan to locate in this area. The plywood base establishes the level for the main roads, holes will be cut for areas that go below this grade and foam will be used for those areas that are above this grade. All of the plywood bench work is removeable so I can take it to my work bench when I'm working on a particular area.
For tonight I will add the pictures - more text will be added over the next few days. Getting tired!
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-030514190635.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-030514190635.jpeg)
The pink foam base is for South River Model Works kit - Sayles Mill. To the left is a test build of the water wheel for the FSM Elijah Roth & Sons kit built by George Sellios. George was working on the kit one of the times when I visited him and it was on his work bench. He handed it to me as I was leaving and I asked him to sign it. It is a great keep sake from George, and it is also really helping with laying out this area of the layout. The water wheel will be feed from the same pond as the Sayles Mill. The area behind the mill will have a number of small residential structures, a school house, and a small Stone Church.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-030514190702.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-030514190702.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-030514190601.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-030514190601.jpeg)
The base board that is across the tracks and the river in the center of this picture is for the South River Models Works Delabare Tap & Die.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-030514190512.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-030514190512.jpeg)
The two hatch areas will be covered with plywood hatches, then foam, and finally trees and scenic materials for a wooded/ swampy area along the river bank. This will make it easier to lift the hatches when repairs are needed -no expensive structures in these areas.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-030514190437.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-030514190437.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-030514190403.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-030514190403.jpeg)
The cut for the river can be seen in this photograph. The base board along the river on the other side of the tracks is the future home for South River Model Works O.V. Hooker & Son Kit. The walkway in the kit will cross the river and lead to a stairway that will go all the way up the hill to the plateau above which will be the home of another town.
The area currently covered with cardboard strips will be a wooded river bank. I get to mix plaster one more time.
The rock coloring in the pictures I shot with my iPhone are a little off. I think the florescent lights affect the photo sensor in the iPhone differently than with my SLR. I will take pictures with the SLR in the next few weeks when I get the streets of the town laid out. I also need to replace some lights to get the light back in the corners again.
The design of he town of Sellios continues - I have made paper templates for each of the kits I plan to use in this area. The size of the paper is the size of the board used for the diorama by the kit manufacture. I have also drawn on each sheet where the roads and tracks where placed. Once I have decided where the track and roads will be placed - I will fit the structures in either as the kit designer intended or kit bashed to meet my needs for the area. I'm sure there will be a few scratch builds before the town is complete. Here is a picture from the start of the process with a few of the pieces in trial positions. I'm really enjoying this process but it is taking more time than I expected. I have made one conclusion - I have more kits planned for this area than will fit in the space.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-090514212845.jpeg)
Quote from: S&S RR on May 09, 2014, 09:39:35 PM
I'm really enjoying this process but it is taking more time than I expected. I have made one conclusion - I have more kits planned for this area than will fit in the space. /quote]
And, then the TRUTH rises again!
Many modelers, many plans! But here it comes again - More Time & Less Space than visualized! ??? ??? ??? ???
Quote from: gnatshop on May 09, 2014, 11:53:05 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on May 09, 2014, 09:39:35 PM
I'm really enjoying this process but it is taking more time than I expected. I have made one conclusion - I have more kits planned for this area than will fit in the space. /quote]
And, then the TRUTH rises again!
Many modelers, many plans! But here it comes again - More Time & Less Space than visualized! ??? ??? ??? ???
David
I think that the best plan is to layout the streets and rail lines in a rational way and then look at the kits as a box full of parts and start kit bashing to make the structures fit the space.
So after about a weeks worth of design work the layout plan for the town of Sellios has been approved. All of the permits pulled, and track installation has begun. Space has been reserved for the following kits; Salyes Mill, Delabare Tap & Die, Baron Gould Tannery, O.V. Hooker & Son, G. Wilikers Machinery, Ezra Coopers, Swakhammers Welding, Skinners Row, Houligan's Alley, Dexter's Dead End, Stuffy's Brewery, Franklin Watch Works, Barnstead Lumber, Elijah Roth, and Chippy Hollow Hardware. I'm sure there will be room for more as the details get finalized. At least the track right-of-way has been established. Here are a few pictures that show the area as planned.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-110514170514.jpeg)
This picture was taken with panorama on my Iphone - it distorts the view a bit but you can see the whole area at once.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-110514170542.jpeg)
Tentative plan for a few of the kits.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-110514170626.jpeg)
Track work and road construction begins.
The general idea for the design of the town is that Sellios is a river valley, so the mainline followed the river and the major industries were built along the tracks and river. I also included a passing siding behind the town along the river to help with traffic flow during operations (I'm sure glad I have been attending all the local OPS sessions). The town built up on the next street over and expanded away from the river. A few years of work here before we see this complete. The main thing for right now is to get back on laying the track and completing the DCC system installation. This will be followed by many years of kit building and bashing.
John, whenever I see pictures of your layout and progress, I am always amazed at the beautiful rockwork and the overall effect.....awesome....and by the way...you better get busy building FSM kits.... ::) ::)
Quote from: jlgrove on May 11, 2014, 06:10:30 PM
John, whenever I see pictures of your layout and progress, I am always amazed at the beautiful rockwork and the overall effect.....awesome....and by the way...you better get busy building FSM kits.... ::) ::)
Jeff
Thanks for the kind words, as you know, I have plans for a few of yours too. I do have many kits to build but that was always the plan for retirement. I have my workshop set-up with three different build areas so I can be working on three at one time. That way as the glue or paint is drying on one I can work on another. We will see how it goes - so far I'm having great fun with it.
It is amazing how many guests are viewing these layout build threads. I am hoping to see more of them join the forum and start sharing what they are doing in the hobby.
Spent the day laying track and finished the trim on the main control panel. One of the features I'm adding into the fascia is places where people can lean against the bench work without hurting the scenery or structures. This shelf on top of the main control panel works great for that purpose. I hope someday to have lots of structures to look at from this viewing position.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170514135730.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170514135730.jpeg)
All of the wood below the edge of the layout will be painted dark green.
John,
Just got back in the train room. Went to a swap meet yesterday, sold some stuff and bought some stuff and still came away with a few dollars. That will be spent on buying a Stanton Drive for my trolley. I'll be working on the station most of the day, or at least until the boss comes in to interrupt me. Progress on the station is slow but methodical. Once all the walls are complete and glued in place, the real fun begins - the roof. more later. Have a great weekend. Everything is looking great on your layout.
Frank / Erieman
Quote from: Erieman on May 18, 2014, 12:46:41 PM
John,
Just got back in the train room. Went to a swap meet yesterday, sold some stuff and bought some stuff and still came away with a few dollars. That will be spent on buying a Stanton Drive for my trolley. I'll be working on the station most of the day, or at least until the boss comes in to interrupt me. Progress on the station is slow but methodical. Once all the walls are complete and glued in place, the real fun begins - the roof. more later. Have a great weekend. Everything is looking great on your layout.
Frank / Erieman
Thanks Frank
Looks like you are making good progress too. You are just getting into your train season - I'm starting my yard season. I'm looking forward to seeing your layout progress in person next winter.
There is plaster drying once again on the Superior & Seattle.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-220514153313.jpeg)
I have been playing with some ideas for a logo for the Superior & Seattle - what do you thing of these 4 ideas?
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-220514153214.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-220514154313.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-220514154132.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-220514154001.jpeg)
I like the bottom one.
But here's a thought: Could you use this logo to produce "stock certificates" to hand out (or even 'sell', I'd pay $1 for a share...) Certainly you'll want some Corporate Letterhead and passes.
dave
Quote from: deemery on May 22, 2014, 04:14:59 PM
I like the bottom one.
But here's a thought: Could you use this logo to produce "stock certificates" to hand out (or even 'sell', I'd pay $1 for a share...) Certainly you'll want some Corporate Letterhead and passes.
dave
Dave
Thanks for the input. I plan to use the logo for a number of things, including passes, a new avatar, at least a few stock certificates etc. I like the idea of a stock certificate with the vital statistics of the layout on the back as something to hand out for open houses.
Here are a couple more versions of the logo. I'm trying to get a font for the text that shows up good as an avatar.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-220514191813.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-220514191813.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-220514193846.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-220514191741.jpeg)
Now for the avatar change. Dave I'm going to try your choice first.
(https://modelersforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;attach=7538;type=avatar) (http://modelersforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;attach=7538;type=avatar)
(https://modelersforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;attach=7539;type=avatar&time=1400801117) (http://modelersforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;attach=7539;type=avatar&time=1400801117)
(https://modelersforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;attach=7540;type=avatar&time=1400802036)
The third try has won out for now. I had to make the font size large enough to be able to read it at the avatar size. I think I will use the first one for any applications where it will be larger.
Today, I went out to the garage and started making pine tree armatures out of old cedar shingles. After a couple hours setup I had a regular production line going. I will try to remember to take some pictures tomorrow.
The new avatar looks great!!
8)
Quote from: ak-milw on May 23, 2014, 09:14:38 PM
The new avatar looks great!!
8)
Thanks Andy - it has been one of those things I've been going to get to for some time.
I spent a few more hours making pine tree armatures today and took some pictures of the operation. The weather is finally great here in Michigan and it's time to move my modeling to the gazebo. This year I plan on making lots of pine trees out in the fresh air. I'm actually posting to the forum, using my iPad, and enjoying the nice weather and a nice cold beverage.
I make my pine trees out of cedar shingles that were left over from the gazebo build.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-240514170657.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-240514170657.jpeg)
The next step is to split the shingles into strips approximately 3/8 of an inch wide using a shingling hammer. Watch your fingers on the last couple strips.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-240514170820.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-240514170820.jpeg)
I then round and taper the strips into tree trunks using a belt sander.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-240514170917.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-240514170917.jpeg)
I store the armatures at this point so I can do the next few operation in the batch mode.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-240514171020.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-240514171020.jpeg)
Here is a picture of the summer time base of operations for the Superior & Seattle Railroad, the "Gazebo".
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250514095411.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250514095411.jpeg)
John.
Great looking gazebo and I love the landscaped area. So green after such a hard winter.
The new avatar is wonderful!
Tom ;D
Looks like a fun place to work on models.....it looks like you are up north, but where?
Quote from: GPdemayo on May 25, 2014, 10:44:17 AM
Looks like a fun place to work on models.....it looks like you are up north, but where?
I'm in Clarkston, Michigan - 30 miles North of Detroit. I have enough trees in the yard to make it look and feel like Up North. I have a cabin up north (200 + miles) when I really need to get into the woods.
Quote from: ACL1504 on May 25, 2014, 10:43:22 AM
John.
Great looking gazebo and I love the landscaped area. So green after such a hard winter.
The new avatar is wonderful!
Tom ;D
Tom
Thanks - yes it is nice to see green again. Michigan is very colorful, this scene is white for one season (we managed to have two seasons of white this year), green for one season, red and yellow for one season, and then we have some just brown and grey in-between. I really enjoy the modeling time in the gazebo - I have many visitors, deer, turkeys, fox, coyote, and lots of small critters. Oh- and I can't forget my model railroading buddy's.
I have a question for the group - What is the time period for the use of square washers vs. round washers for trestle builds?
I'm about to start my trestle builds and I have prototype pictures of both being used but I'm trying to find out if there is a time period when one was used over the other? Anyone a trestle build expert?
Nice looking gazebo/landscaping. I also like your new avatar. You could hold the shingle with pliers for the last few hacks to save your fingers. :D
Jeff
Love the gazebo and even more so, the pictured thought of your wildlife visitors! 8) 8) 8)
I love seeing wildlife in the yard, but mine is mostly deer, fox, racoons, and squirrels, with the last
two being the most prevalent and sometimes possessive!
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on May 25, 2014, 10:12:09 PM
Nice looking gazebo/landscaping. I also like your new avatar. You could hold the shingle with pliers for the last few hacks to save your fingers. :D
Jeff
Jeff
Thanks, I'm getting a kick out of splitting the shingles - I spent many hours splitting wood on my Grandparents farm when I was a kid. I just prop the shingle up and split away the last couple slices. It keeps me out of the emergency room with fingers that need sewing! It is like riding a bike you never forget. Thanks for stopping by the thread. Are you planning to going to the Narrow Gauge Convention in KC?
Quote from: gnatshop on May 25, 2014, 11:05:32 PM
Love the gazebo and even more so, the pictured thought of your wildlife visitors! 8) 8) 8)
I love seeing wildlife in the yard, but mine is mostly deer, fox, racoons, and squirrels, with the last
two being the most prevalent and sometimes possessive!
David
Great picture - I see a few racoons, but usually only at night. The squirrels think it's their gazebo - they will run along the rails while I'm in it. I haven't had any damage - except for a 10 point buck that decided to rub the velvet off his antlers on the post that holds the railing. Look close at the post at the bottom of the stairs. Thought I was BSing didn't you. If I don't keep my magic stuff on the hostas and landscaping they will be gone. Deer don't like their food to smell unnatural.
Yes, John. I plan to go to KC. See you there. I don't like deer in the yard as a certain small dog likes to eat their leavings. :o
Jeff
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on May 26, 2014, 07:45:38 AM
Yes, John. I plan to go to KC. See you there. I don't like deer in the yard as a certain small dog likes to eat their leavings. :o
Jeff
Sounds good Jeff - see you there - I wonder if they will take EXPO bucks?
John,
Nice patio. I can guess why it is screened in! with all that snow and rain, the bugs will be probably out of a sci fi movie. Do like all the trees, Very nice yard indeed. I have the same sander, but have not used it much yet. The local guy that is building trees for sale also has a drill press with a wire brush in the chuck which he uses to put the tree texture on with. Looks good. I need to get my son-in-laws drill press so I can do the same.
Need to get back to station. Hope you and Amy had a nice holiday.
Frank / Erieman
Thanks Frank
I use a rasp to add the bark texture. Takes about 10 seconds per tree. I will post some pictures when I get to that part.
Without the screens the bugs would be an issue, especially at night.
John...
I started a thread called Trestle washers to attempt to answer your question.
see ya
Bob
Quote from: bparrish on May 27, 2014, 07:00:30 PM
John...
I started a thread called Trestle washers to attempt to answer your question.
see ya
Bob
Thanks Bob
Great discussion thread!
The washer issue is resolved- I ordered square washers on 2 1/2 inch bolts. I will post pictures of the fixture I'm building for the trestle bents as soon as it is complete. I'm currently back in the 6 projects at once mode. It is just the way it seems to work out.
John,
I thought I was the only person who had several projects going at one time. I keep telling myself I won't do it again but then I find I right back where I started.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on May 29, 2014, 06:43:02 AM
John,
I thought I was the only person who had several projects going at one time. I keep telling myself I won't do it again but then I find I right back where I started.
Tom ;D
Tom
I think it is part being a model railroader. In my case it doesn't help that for my working life I was always managing multiple projects. It is just the way it is and I can't change it.
I agree, when I have one project going, I feel like I'm not getting anything done.
Tom ;D
I have the same problem, must be the way modeling is.
8)
Since we were discussing having multiple projects going at one time I took pictures of the projects I'm working on today. I have two tasks going on the stone roundhouse build, the tar paper roof and the doors. After a few attempts at scratch building a door and then casting a mold I have decided that I'm going to scratch build all of the door out of wood. Today I had part of the first door clamped up for the glue to dry. This is design 3 - sound familiar.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-300514193237.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-300514193237.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-300514193347.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-300514193347.jpeg)
I'm also working on laying the track in the Sellios area - as soon as I get this area wired up and working with DC I'm going to make the switch to DCC.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-300514193042.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-300514193042.jpeg)
And the final project is the trees which I posted on earlier in the week.
John..........
Having multiple projects is how I function best............. Get an idea that might work and try it out........ when I get stuck I go on to another idea or back on something else in the works...... given long enough.... a solution comes along and I'm back at it.........
I think we all are a bit schizo when it comes to some of this..........
But............... I'm not schizo.................... and neither am I
see ya
Bob
Bob, Tom, Andy
I think we all tend to work on multiple projects, it keeps things interesting and you have something to do while the glue and or paint dries. The only drawback seems to be that you don't see as much day to day progress. One of the nice things about keep a build thread going is that you can look back a month and see that you are really making progress. Now, speaking of progress is time to go lay some track.
I have five structure projects going on now plus redesigning my layout to accommodate past, present and future structure. Sitting on the porch with my after walk coffee watching the hummingbirds on the feeder. Jim
Quote from: jrmueller on May 31, 2014, 09:11:25 AM
I have five structure projects going on now plus redesigning my layout to accommodate past, present and future structure. Sitting on the porch with my after walk coffee watching the hummingbirds on the feeder. Jim
Hi Jim
Sounds like a model railroader to me - the sitting on the porch part is scenery research so you have six project going. I have never seen anyone model a hummingbird ;D
Thanks for stopping by the thread.
I have been doing some research for my trestle build project. One of my best resources is my collection of Narrow Gauge and Short Line Gazette Magazines. Thank you Bob Brown for providing us with such a great resource over the years. Here are a few pictures of trestles from the Gazette.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-310514195657.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-310514195657.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-310514195437.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-310514195437.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-310514195245.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-310514195245.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-310514091307.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-310514091307.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-310514091146.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-310514091146.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-310514200510.jpeg)
Today after a few hours of reading I finally decided on a trestle design for the Superior & Seattle Railroad. I found a magazine article in my files that answered all of my remaining questions. If you are at the point in your layout where you need to build some trestles I highly recommend you read this article. It is from the May 2006 Railroad Model Craftsman and was written by David G. Labert and titled "Tips on modeling wood trestles: How to avoid common engineering mistakes". The article explains the details so if your interested I would point you there. The following picture shows the design that I will be using for the bents.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-020614090309.jpeg)
John.......
Quite an undertaking.......... There are very few vertical bent timbers that cross through the horizontal ties. You got a lot of parts ahead of you.........
It will be.......... however......... very cool.
Thanx
Bob
Quote from: bparrish on June 02, 2014, 02:05:23 AM
John.......
Quite an undertaking.......... There are very few vertical bent timbers that cross through the horizontal ties. You got a lot of parts ahead of you.........
It will be.......... however......... very cool.
Thanx
Bob
Bob
The big issue with many model trestle designs is that they will use 110 foot 12x12 vertical timbers. The railroads didn't have access to them even in the Northwest. About 30 feet was the maximum they could get and could handle in any quantity. The maximum height for the seven trestles I plan to build is 110 feet. With this design the top sections will all be the same and the bottom section will very in height to match the terrain.
I will cut and stain the wood pieces in batches. Then glue them together with the gluing fixture I'm making. The gluing of the bents will be a fill in job for many, many months. When I get enough bents to build one of the trestles we will see how they look.
John......
What are you using for stain on the wood parts ?
see ya
Bob
John,
I'm looking forward to the trestle build.
Tom ;D
Quote from: bparrish on June 02, 2014, 12:15:57 PM
John......
What are you using for stain on the wood parts ?
see ya
Bob
Bob
I have a special formula like everyone else, the old Alcohol and Ink only this time it's brown and black ink. I make up every batch to a color sample that I made a few years back. I have tried a number of different things over the years and I always come back to the Alcohol and Ink. I will post pictures of the process when I get there. Every batch of wood seems to take the stain different so I match to a sample and change the formula to get close to the color I'm looking for.
Quote from: ACL1504 on June 02, 2014, 12:36:01 PM
John,
I'm looking forward to the trestle build.
Tom ;D
I am too! Thanks for following along Tom. So how many projects does this make that I have going at once?
John..........
I like alcohol mixes the best. I've never liked using oil base wood working furniture stain sealers. Glue doesn't stick right after making up a batch of parts or pre staining.
I got connected to aniline dyes 40+ years ago and never strayed very far. It comes in a lot of colors and there is a walnut color that is great as a creosote.
I especially like alcohol as it dries fast and you can get to work on parts very quickly.
see ya
Bob
I'm a sucker for trestles, the bigger, the better. This looks to be a great on John.
Quote from: S&S RR on June 02, 2014, 02:14:55 PM
Quote from: ACL1504 on June 02, 2014, 12:36:01 PM
John,
I'm looking forward to the trestle build.
Tom ;D
I am too! Thanks for following along Tom. So how many projects does this make that I have going at once?
I'm not sure but is there such a thing as "there can't ever be enough"?
Tom ;D
Quote from: GPdemayo on June 02, 2014, 02:29:54 PM
I'm a sucker for trestles, the bigger, the better. This looks to be a great on John.
Greg
I like the way you think. I have some big trestles planned. Lots of cutting, staining and gluing between here and making it happen but that's the fun part. Stay tuned I will post pictures as I make progress.
Quote from: S&S RR on June 02, 2014, 04:04:55 PM
Quote from: GPdemayo on June 02, 2014, 02:29:54 PM
I'm a sucker for trestles, the bigger, the better. This looks to be a great on John.
Greg
I like the way you think. I have some big trestles planned. Lots of cutting, staining and gluing between here and making it happen but that's the fun part. Stay tuned I will post pictures as I make progress.
Great, look forward to it!
Quote from: ACL1504 on June 02, 2014, 02:51:45 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on June 02, 2014, 02:14:55 PM
Quote from: ACL1504 on June 02, 2014, 12:36:01 PM
John,
I'm looking forward to the trestle build.
Tom ;D
I am too! Thanks for following along Tom. So how many projects does this make that I have going at once?
I'm not sure but is there such a thing as "there can't ever be enough"?
Tom ;D
I don't know what the number is but it looks like I'm going to test it.
Hi there,
looking great. I´ll follow along...
Regards,Chris
Quote from: Twist67 on June 03, 2014, 08:07:54 AM
Hi there,
looking great. I´ll follow along...
Regards,Chris
Chris
Thanks for the kind works, posting and following the thread. I'm trying to make a little progress every day - someday it just might be a railroad.
Wayne and I had a good day working on the layout, I completed the track work near the town of Sellios which completes the lower level mainline. As soon as I complete the wiring it will be time to get the DCC system going.
Wayne completed the track work for the yard so we will be putting the final touches on the wiring in that area during our next work session.
One of the other activities of building the layout is naming key areas. Today we also made progress on that front. There is a mountain separating the area I have been working in from the area Wayne has been working in for the past year. I could see Wayne by looking through a tunnel at the end of a pass through the mountain. Yesterday when I called Wayne to see if he would be able to come over for a work session his wife Elinore answered the phone. I asked her if it was okay if Wayne came over to play trains with me. She said yes, if I kept an eye on him like she has been doing for almost 60 years. I looked at the tunnel and named the pass Elinore Pass in honor of Wayne's wife.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-030614204628.jpeg)
Quote from: S&S RR on June 03, 2014, 09:00:45 PM
I looked at the tunnel and named the pass Elinore Pass in honor of Wayne's wife!
Glad to see that you know the secret of keepin' railroad friends and helpers -
Suck Up When Necessary To GetThe Job Done!The corporate side of you is sneakin' back out! ;D ;D ;D ;D
The door project for the Roundhouse is also coming along. The top of the door has some grind stock so each door can be fitted to the openings. I need to do some experimenting to decide the color stain I'm going to use.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-030614202035.jpeg)
Also started laying out the gluing fixture for the trestle bents.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-030614202227.jpeg)
I made the final cuts on the structure baseboards so the track could be installed and the baseboards could be removed to my workbench. In this first picture you can see the exposed plywood bench work from my old layout. It now supports the new layout in this area. You can see the hole from a previous duck under (note I only recommend them for modelers under 30), the new layout design removed all duck unders.
Each of the baseboards now becomes a piece of real estate for the town of Sellios ready for the structure builds to begin. As that work continues the track work is all operational.
The new plaster work also received it's first coat of paint. This area will be wooded so very little rock painting to do here. The river bed can be seen at the base of the mountain.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-030614201933.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-030614201933.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-030614202130.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-030614202130.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-040614093503.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-040614093503.jpeg)
Pretty cool........
Thanx
Bob
It's like a giant jigsaw puzzle.
8)
Quote from: bparrish on June 04, 2014, 01:07:37 PM
Pretty cool........
Thanx
Bob
Thanks Bob - It will be cool to see the structures starting to go up.
Quote from: ak-milw on June 04, 2014, 07:56:00 PM
It's like a giant jigsaw puzzle.
8)
Andy
That is what it is right now.
Hi,
the puzzle is looking good so far...can´t wait to see some structures ;)
Regards,Chris
Quote from: Twist67 on June 05, 2014, 05:35:12 AM
Hi,
the puzzle is looking good so far...can´t wait to see some structures ;)
Regards,Chris
Thanks Chris - I'm trying to make a little progress every day.
Speaking of a little progress every day - I just came in from the train room to let the blue smoke clear. I was drilling a hole for the drop wire on the last switch and I managed to get the drill bit tangled in one of the wires below the bench work that I had just soldiered. Instead of just tearing the soldier joint loose it ripped the rail off the switch. Destructive testing of the soldier joints was not part of my quality control plan.
Sometimes you just have to walk away from it for a little while. >:(
John......
I have a good friend that often reminds me that.........." any job worth doing is worth doing twice ! ! !"
see ya
Bob
Quote from: bparrish on June 05, 2014, 05:17:38 PM
John......
I have a good friend that often reminds me that.........." any job worth doing is worth doing twice ! ! !"
see ya
Bob
Thanks Bob
Looks like I will be installing a new switch.
Quote from: S&S RR on June 05, 2014, 04:43:08 PM
Speaking of a little progress every day - I just came in from the train room to let the blue smoke clear. I was drilling a hole for the drop wire on the last switch and I managed to get the drill bit tangled in one of the wires below the bench work that I had just soldiered. Instead of just tearing the soldier joint loose it ripped the rail off the switch. Destructive testing of the soldier joints was not part of my quality control plan.
Sometimes you just have to walk away from it for a little while. >:(
The blue smoke was caused by blue language? You're right about the need to just walk away sometimes.
dave
Quote from: deemery on June 06, 2014, 09:17:55 AM
Quote from: S&S RR on June 05, 2014, 04:43:08 PM
Speaking of a little progress every day - I just came in from the train room to let the blue smoke clear. I was drilling a hole for the drop wire on the last switch and I managed to get the drill bit tangled in one of the wires below the bench work that I had just soldiered. Instead of just tearing the soldier joint loose it ripped the rail off the switch. Destructive testing of the soldier joints was not part of my quality control plan.
Sometimes you just have to walk away from it for a little while. >:(
The blue smoke was caused by blue language? You're right about the need to just walk away sometimes.
dave
Dave
Yes - Today all is well, the switch is replaced and we are getting ready to start installing the DCC system. A few more days of wiring and we will be ready to start the installation.
One of my 'measures of complexity' for a project is cussing sessions, where one session consists of the use of 3 or more naughty words (to differentiate this from the occasional "damn.") :P
dave
Quote from: deemery on June 06, 2014, 10:54:20 AM
One of my 'measures of complexity' for a project is cussing sessions, where one session consists of the use of 3 or more naughty words (to differentiate this from the occasional "damn.") :P
dave
I think you may have a correlation but we have to find a way to filter the noise in the data on the S&S every time Wayne burns himself with the soldiering iron. ;)
OK John...........
Here's a scene that drew a bit more than a "Damn!!!"
While building the bench work for my current railroad, I was cooking along putting up 1x4s and shooting it together with industrial screws.......... ie sheet rock type screws.....
In one place the screw was going to be way too long but went unnoticed. I was gripping the two boards firmly to hold in place until the screw got to the second board............ well it went and I rolled the screw right into my finger.......
As in way into my finger ! ! ! !
I had the presence of mind not to jerk my finger away and turn it into a big mac.........
I stopped....... let out some blue.............. fumbled around to reverse the drill motor...... more blue....
And only then did I back the screw out of my finger. Ohhhhhhhh that felt way better.....
But........... more blue.
Moral of the story......... don't use your hand in place of a wood clamp.....
And also........... look around for who might be watching.
see ya
Bob
Quote from: bparrish on June 06, 2014, 11:21:38 AM
OK John...........
Here's a scene that drew a bit more than a "Damn!!!"
While building the bench work for my current railroad, I was cooking along putting up 1x4s and shooting it together with industrial screws.......... ie sheet rock type screws.....
In one place the screw was going to be way too long but went unnoticed. I was gripping the two boards firmly to hold in place until the screw got to the second board............ well it went and I rolled the screw right into my finger.......
As in way into my finger ! ! ! !
I had the presence of mind not to jerk my finger away and turn it into a big mac.........
I stopped....... let out some blue.............. fumbled around to reverse the drill motor...... more blue....
And only then did I back the screw out of my finger. Ohhhhhhhh that felt way better.....
But........... more blue.
Moral of the story......... don't use your hand in place of a wood clamp.....
And also........... look around for who might be watching.
see ya
Bob
Now that had to hurt!
I still have a 1/4" scar in my palm from "clamping" wood together to drill a hole about 25 years ago. Somehow I managed to miss all of the bones in my hand,
dave
Quote from: deemery on June 06, 2014, 01:12:08 PM
I still have a 1/4" scar in my palm from "clamping" wood together to drill a hole about 25 years ago. Somehow I managed to miss all of the bones in my hand,
dave
You have talent - I have trouble missing the 2x4 cross braces in the bench work when I'm drilling the drop wire holes. Great War stories! I'm headed under the layout with my hard hat on. ;D I think I'll put a short drill bit in the power drill.
Quote from: S&S RR on June 06, 2014, 03:51:59 PM
...
You have talent - I have trouble missing the 2x4 cross braces in the bench work when I'm drilling the drop wire holes. Great War stories! I'm headed under the layout with my hard hat on. ;D I think I'll put a short drill bit in the power drill.
People with hair don't know just how much protection even a little hair provides for the top of your head.
"You don't know what you've got 'till it's gone"Be safe out there, everyone!dave
Dave...
You are so right about a little hair......
When I go to the barber I have to pay her to find it ! ! ! ! !
see ya
Bob
Dave and Bob
I'm not sure how this discussion lead to being hair challenged but I can't say I miss mine. I had the barber buzz cut my hair one day when I started to loose a little hair in front (20 years ago) and stuck with it. I never did loose anymore hair after that but liked having short hair. When I was in college I did the hair on my shoulders thing - it did help keep my ears warm.
The bumps on the head do show easier now so the hard hat under the layout has saved a few scraps.
I made a lot of progress today - soldiered the rest of the drop wires for the lower main line so tomorrow I think I can finish the wiring on the lower level of the layout. Then it's time to make the switch to DCC. I have all the components for the, as designed system, so it's time to start putting it together.
Quote from: S&S RR on June 07, 2014, 06:16:20 PM
I made a lot of progress today - soldiered the rest of the drop wires for the lower main line so tomorrow I think I can finish the wiring on the lower level of the layout. Then it's time to make the switch to DCC. I have all the components for the, as designed system, so it's time to start putting it together.
May all of your solder joints be shiny, and may the only shorts you have be those on your butt :-) :-)
dave
Quote from: deemery on June 08, 2014, 11:22:10 AM
Quote from: S&S RR on June 07, 2014, 06:16:20 PM
I made a lot of progress today - soldiered the rest of the drop wires for the lower main line so tomorrow I think I can finish the wiring on the lower level of the layout. Then it's time to make the switch to DCC. I have all the components for the, as designed system, so it's time to start putting it together.
May all of your solder joints be shiny, and may the only shorts you have be those on your butt :-) :-)
dave
Thanks Dave
We will see how it goes.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-150614175444.jpeg)
I made some progress on the trestle gluing fixture.
Today I made the last test runs with the DC control. It is time to start the DCC installation.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-150614175355.jpeg)
Glad to see that you have a normal modeler's work bench!! ;D ;D ;D
Quote from: gnatshop on June 15, 2014, 08:15:17 PM
Glad to see that you have a normal modeler's work bench!! ;D ;D ;D
Thanks Dave
Every new project starts with a big mess!
Quote from: S&S RR on June 16, 2014, 10:11:22 AM
Quote from: gnatshop on June 15, 2014, 08:15:17 PM
Glad to see that you have a normal modeler's work bench!! ;D ;D ;D
Thanks Dave
Every new project starts with a big mess!
For me, every project starts with a clean workbench, and -very rapidly devolves- into a big mess!
dave
Quote from: deemery on June 16, 2014, 01:56:04 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on June 16, 2014, 10:11:22 AM
Quote from: gnatshop on June 15, 2014, 08:15:17 PM
Glad to see that you have a normal modeler's work bench!! ;D ;D ;D
Thanks Dave
Every new project starts with a big mess!
For me, every project starts with a clean workbench, and -very rapidly devolves- into a big mess!
dave
Well the bench was clean just before I started the project - then everything I needed got piled on top.
I just ran a locomotive under DCC control! Very cool! It had been a long time coming.
John,
Congratulations on the conversion to DCC! I had a friend who said, "Tom, I'll go to DCC with no sound before I ever go back to DC"!
Tom ;D
John......
DCC is one of those things that you never stray very far.......... ever after.
There is so much cool stuff that can be done with locomotives once you have made the jump.
Consisting is EASY........... Depending on what system you chose.......... matching locomotive speeds and performance.
Tailoring each locomotive to hide various idiosyncrasies like low speed operation, starting voltage, maximum speeds and of course, speed tables to notch up through.
It's all cool stuff.
What system did you choose?
see ya
Bob
Thanks Tom and Bob
I have been running DCC equipment on friends layouts for years but this is the first time on my layout. It has been six years since I was running trains on my old layout using DC. It has been the plan since the beginning of this layout to go to DCC as soon as I got the lower level track running with DC.
I'm using the NCE system and most of my engines have sound decoders. It took about 20 minutes to get the system out of the box and hooked to a piece of test track (actually one of my sidings which can be isolated by throwing a couple switches). So far I'm very happy with the NCE system - I have been around computers and control systems all my life so I'm finding it very easy to make the switch. I will be hooking up the rest of the layout a block at a time. Tomorrow I plan on getting the computer boards with the reversing loops and short detection electronics installed and ready for the complete layout tests to come.
I had decoders installed in all the locomotives from my previous layout plus I have ordered about 10 new locomotives so the Superior & Seattle will have a good start with motive of power.
Nice going John. I have had DCC for about 5 years now and still can't get a thing to run with it, Folks come over and they run it fine so I know it works, it's just I can't get it to work. I am glad I can run at least one DC loco with it.
John..........
NCE is a good system. There are two here in the valley and I have driven both. I'm not good at setting them up but you sound pretty confident with it.
My only lesson from other modelers is to encourage you to have a separate test / programing track. It is easy on some systems to accidentally send a programing signal to a random loco when not expected. I know of a Digitrax guy that accidentally reset all of his loco to factory. As it 3 and neutral everything else. Fortunately he had a good log of which was which and he had it back before long.
Sound will be great with all of that super scenery that you are building. Very cool
see ya
Bob
Andy......
What system are you running?
There shouldn't be a sound reason for you not being able to run your own railroad.
Clean tracks............ clean wheels............... no plastic wheels............
Then what happens? ? ? ? ?
see ya
Bob
Folks having DCC problems might want to check the Yahoo discussion groups. I know there are groups for DCC in general and specifically for NCE and Digitrax. The posters all seem to be knowledgeable and friendly.
Quote from: BandOGuy on June 17, 2014, 07:01:31 AM
Folks having DCC problems might want to check the Yahoo discussion groups. I know there are groups for DCC in general and specifically for NCE and Digitrax. The posters all seem to be knowledgeable and friendly.
Bob
Thanks - I may need a support group - when I closed my eyes last night all I could see was wires, all different colors, going in every direction, and at the end of my dream Slim was standing there with a fire extinguisher. :'( :o
Quote from: S&S RR on June 17, 2014, 09:59:45 AM
Quote from: BandOGuy on June 17, 2014, 07:01:31 AM
Folks having DCC problems might want to check the Yahoo discussion groups. I know there are groups for DCC in general and specifically for NCE and Digitrax. The posters all seem to be knowledgeable and friendly.
Bob
Thanks - I may need a support group - when I closed my eyes last night all I could see was wires, all different colors, going in every direction, and at the end of my dream Slim was standing there with a fire extinguisher. :'( :o
That officially qualifies as a nightmare!
dave
Anything with Slim in it constitutes a nightmare....
see ya
Bob
I just did a very dumb thing. I needed a break from the wires and went up stairs and casually told my wife I was taking a break because my eyes were starting to cross. She informed me that cleaning the carpets would help - took two hours to run out of carpet shampoo. No more breaks - even if I have Slim nightmares.
John.....
This is why I have my own radio and refrigerator up stairs in the RR room...... Never come down unless you want to get ambushed ! ! ! ! !
Voice of experience
see ya
Bob
Bob, I don't want to tie up Johns thread but it is some sort of mental block when it comes to new devices. I can sit with the instructions for hours and it won't work. My daughter walks up, hits a few buttons and away it goes. It took me forever just to make a computer work. and don't even ask about cell phones.
8)
Quote from: ak-milw on June 17, 2014, 07:43:39 PM
Bob, I don't want to tie up Johns thread but it is some sort of mental block when it comes to new devices. I can sit with the instructions for hours and it won't work. My daughter walks up, hits a few buttons and away it goes. It took me forever just to make a computer work. and don't even ask about cell phones.
8)
Andy
I have an Uncle that is the same way with electronic devices. I have tried to get him to use his cell phone and it is still sitting in a drawer. It is just the way some people are wired. If you can enjoy your layout without it then who needs it. Model on! Thanks for following the thread.
We had a good day working on the layout today. I spent the day wiring the DCC system and Wayne Olson came over today and started putting the finishing touches on the track work in the yard. We were working so hard I didn't take time for pictures. Tomorrow I will post update pictures.
Today, I finished wiring the first of three drawers full of computer boards for the DCC system. The boards in this drawer provide overload protection for 8 power districts and 2 reversing loops.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190614183225.jpeg)
John,
Wow, you and the layout need to move to Central Florida! Just kidding, no seriously!
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on June 19, 2014, 07:22:58 PM
John,
Wow, you and the layout need to move to Central Florida! Just kidding, no seriously!
Tom ;D
A trip to Florida is a strong possibility in the next few years. For some reason we always seem to make these trips in the winter. ;D Make sure you let me know if a trip to Michigan makes it on your schedule.
News Flash: fired up the DCC system and ran a train halfway around the lower main without incident.
Tomorrow I can clean the boxes off the rest of the main and fire up the second drawer full of computer boards. We are having fun now!
All those status LED's sure look nice when they are the right color.
Quote from: S&S RR on June 19, 2014, 06:38:59 PM
Today, I finished wiring the first of three drawers full of computer boards for the DCC system. The boards in this drawer provide overload protection for 8 power districts and 2 reversing loops.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190614183225.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190614183225.jpeg)
Boy, I'm impressed! The Ledbetter's house wirin' ain't near that complicated! ::) ::) ::)
Quote from: gnatshop on June 19, 2014, 09:39:11 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on June 19, 2014, 06:38:59 PM
Today, I finished wiring the first of three drawers full of computer boards for the DCC system. The boards in this drawer provide overload protection for 8 power districts and 2 reversing loops.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190614183225.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190614183225.jpeg)
Boy, I'm impressed! The Ledbetter's house wirin' ain't near that complicated! ::) ::) ::)
As soon as you get that indoor plumbing I will wire you up one of those heated toilet seats I saw when I was in Japan.
You will need to be careful, if you push the wrong button you get a real surprise.
I spent two hours running trains on the Superior & Seattle yesterday. The DCC system installation went great - the people at NCE are putting together a real nice system. Running trains on the lower main has really motivated me to get the rest of the track work done. At this point I have about 40 percent of the track operational.
I ran a 2-6-6-2 over the lower main and found three areas that will need some adjustment - main issue was with curved track to close to switches - the big steam needs more time to get aligned for a switch.
Great progress John, but the electrical stuff sure looks complicated. ;D
Great to hear you're running trains!
Jeff
Quote from: GPdemayo on June 21, 2014, 09:34:08 AM
Great progress John, but the electrical stuff sure looks complicated. ;D
Gregory
The first board starts out complicated but after that it's just making sure you do every one the same way. My procedure for this is make a sketch with notes in my log book. I do this while I'm reading the directions. Those of you that are over 50 will understand why I do that - those of you that are not over 50 - you will - and you should start taking notes now. I wired the actual boards from my log book sketch. Then at the end before I power up I take a picture - you thought the picture was only so I could post on the forum - I double check each connection on the picture. The final test is the "SLIM" test - hit the power switch and look for smoke. No smoke check the status LED's on each board. At that point I fired up one block and tested it with a engine. Use the one with the $20 decoder. My layout, as designed right now, has 16 power districts, 8 of these have reversing capability. In addition to the power districts I have 120 blocks. Each block has two switches for + and - input so testing for a short is real easy. I can also turn off engines in sidings and in the yard with a switch. I have been to OPPS sessions where start up is way to much power draw with all the sound decoders to feed. If I ever wanted to go back to DC block control I would only have to change the two input wires - I don't know why I would ever want to do that but it was nice to test the track with all my old DC locomotives.
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on June 21, 2014, 11:37:49 AM
Great to hear you're running trains!
Jeff
Jeff
Thanks - It is really nice to see things moving on the layout. Really gave me an energy boost to get the rest of the track finished so I can get to the structures and scenery.
I was happy to hear in your post on your thread that the storms didn't cause you any problems. I have experienced three tornadoes in my life and treat them with great respect. I was in the middle of the famous Palm Sunday tornado, on the West side of Michigan, in 1965 (I was 7 so you don't have to do the math) that killed all the people. I was in a car that was thrown into a ditch. I can still see it in my minds eye. I heard on the news this week when they were talking about the storms in your area, that it still holds the record for most tornado deaths in the US.
Today I finished the DCC installation - this is a major milestone - now I can live test each section of track as I install it. In addition to making a few changes in the first drawer, I completed the installation of the 6 reversing control boards in the second drawer. Here are a couple of pictures of the final configurations. I include these picture here because I was looking for pictures just like this when I was designing the system and couldn't find them. I hope someone finds them of value. Please let me know if you have questions - that is what this thread and the forum is all about.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-240614133154.jpeg)
Drawer 1 : 8 power districts and 2 reversing loops.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-240614133303.jpeg)
Drawer 2: 6 reversing loops.
John
You are now well into the 21st century.
Looks good to me.
Thanx
Bob
Quote from: bparrish on June 24, 2014, 02:33:15 PM
John
You are now well into the 21st century.
Looks good to me.
Thanx
Bob
Bob
Thanks - Do I have all the wires in the right place. So far - no smoke and the engines run ;D ;D ;D .
John
No smoke is good.
If things work after that..... So much the better.
See ya
Bob
You are having a ball John! Very impressive work on the electronics. Mighty fine work. Mighty fine. I do not know what else to say. Great layout!
Dave HWCRR
Seattle
Quote from: DACS on June 26, 2014, 05:23:41 PM
You are having a ball John! Very impressive work on the electronics. Mighty fine work. Mighty fine. I do not know what else to say. Great layout!
Dave HWCRR
Seattle
Dave
Thanks for the kind words and for following the thread. I am having lots of fun with this layout and that is what counts.
Quote from: bparrish on June 24, 2014, 04:20:39 PM
John
No smoke is good.
If things work after that..... So much the better.
See ya
Bob
Bob
Thanks for the encouraging words. So far so good!
I'm very happy with the DCC installation and it's time to take a few days off from the layout and get a few things off my to-do-list. This past winter was real hard on the outside stuff and I need to make some minor repairs to the house.
I think I'm going to finish the fascia painting and install a hard wood floor in the train room as my next project when I get back to the layout. Then it will be finish the track work time!
Quote from: bparrish on June 24, 2014, 04:20:39 PM
John
No smoke is good.
See ya
Bob
Unless you're trying to select a Pope!
Quote from: BandOGuy on June 28, 2014, 04:53:14 PM
Quote from: bparrish on June 24, 2014, 04:20:39 PM
John
No smoke is good.
See ya
Bob
Unless you're trying to select a Pope!
Good point! That's when the color of the smoke means something.
Quote from: S&S RR on June 28, 2014, 04:25:37 PM
I'm very happy with the DCC installation and it's time to take a few days off from the layout and get a few things off my to-do-list. This past winter was real hard on the outside stuff and I need to make some minor repairs to the house.
I think I'm going to finish the fascia painting and install a hard wood floor in the train room as my next project when I get back to the layout. Then it will be finish the track work time!
Ain't home ownership a demandin' diversion?
I wish I could buy note paper on a roll for all my to-do-lists!
Oh, yeah - I tried that, but when I spilled my drink on them, my do-do-list (err, to-do-list) went away! ;D ;D ;D
Quote from: gnatshop on June 28, 2014, 06:45:39 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on June 28, 2014, 04:25:37 PM
I'm very happy with the DCC installation and it's time to take a few days off from the layout and get a few things off my to-do-list. This past winter was real hard on the outside stuff and I need to make some minor repairs to the house.
I think I'm going to finish the fascia painting and install a hard wood floor in the train room as my next project when I get back to the layout. Then it will be finish the track work time!
Ain't home ownership a demandin' diversion?
I wish I could buy note paper on a roll for all my to-do-lists!
Oh, yeah - I tried that, but when I spilled my drink on them, my do-do-list (err, to-do-list) went away! ;D ;D ;D
David
I keep my to- do list on my phone - great way of remembering things for those of us that can't remember s**t. It really works well when I go to the store. The only problem is when I can't find my phone!
I don't keep a to do list. Too depressing.
I saw a thing once that said...... "God gives each guy so many things to do in his life. As far behind as I am I'll live forever."
See ya
Bob
Not sure who said this!
"The more I do the further behind I get".
Tom ;D
I started the week with 40 items on my to-do-list. As of tonight I'm down to 27 and tired of my to-do-list. Time to spend some time on the layout!
Tim...
Do you mean???
The hurrier I go... The be hinder I get.
See ya
Bob
Behind the eight-ball is a way of life for the Ledbetters! ;D ;D ;D ;D
I spent most of the day yesterday running trains and evaluating the track work on the layout. I found three areas where I need to do some work before we can start adding ballast to the track. In all three cases I tried to make straight turnouts work where the geometry really was calling for curved turnouts. The order for new curved turnouts was made and the adjustments to the budget was made. The price of track has gone through the roof!
Quote from: bparrish on July 02, 2014, 08:18:36 PM
Tim...
Do you mean???
The hurrier I go... The be hinder I get.
See ya
Bob
Yea, I think that is the one!
Tom ;D
Quote from: S&S RR on July 06, 2014, 07:20:38 AM
I spent most of the day yesterday running trains and evaluating the track work on the layout. I found three areas where I need to do some work before we can start adding ballast to the track. In all three cases I tried to make straight turnouts work where the geometry really was calling for curved turnouts. The order for new curved turnouts was made and the adjustments to the budget was made. The price of track has gone through the roof!
John,
I've done the same thing on the old layout. Tried to cram a straight when it really needed a curved one. I was at Howards Zane's home one day and I asked him where he got the large radius curved turnout. He said it was a Walthers #10 straight turnout. He cut every other tie on the bottom of the turnout and gently curved it to meet his need. He said he never had a problem with it. It looked like a #10 curved turnout, he said the raidius was 40" outside and inside was 36"! I had a couple of #10's but was to chicken to try what he did. Last I looked Walthers stuff was close to $55+ for a large curved turnout.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on July 06, 2014, 07:44:40 AM
Quote from: S&S RR on July 06, 2014, 07:20:38 AM
I spent most of the day yesterday running trains and evaluating the track work on the layout. I found three areas where I need to do some work before we can start adding ballast to the track. In all three cases I tried to make straight turnouts work where the geometry really was calling for curved turnouts. The order for new curved turnouts was made and the adjustments to the budget was made. The price of track has gone through the roof!
John,
I've done the same thing on the old layout. Tried to cram a straight when it really needed a curved one. I was at Howards on day and I asked him where her got the large radius curved turnout. He said it was a Walthers #10 straight turnout. He cut every other tie on the bottom of the turnout and gently curved it to meet his need. He said he never had a problem with it. It looked like a #10 curved turnout, he said the raidius was 40" outside and inside was 36"! I had a couple of #10's but was to chicken to try what he did. Last I looked Walthers stuff was close to $55+ for a large curved turnout.
Tom ;D
Tom
Thanks for the tip.
If I need another curved turnout I will give it a try - I'm sure I will. You are correct about the price of turnouts and finding someone who has them in stock is a challenge. Walthers has very few left in stock and I here the are going way up in price again when they can supply them.
..I have heard of that turnout tip for any straight turnouts....I did it with an Atlas #4 for a little section of my logging line, and it worked great....I even know of guys that have done it with PECO's both in HO and On30 for unique turnouts without the expense of curved ones, and if you don't lay your own track, it works fine....great tip Tom!!!
I've fallen prey to needing to bend the rails coming away from the frog but overall I've managed too leave the switch point area alone.
Great tip.
thanx
Bob
Quote from: bparrish on July 06, 2014, 01:17:47 PM
I've fallen prey to needing to bend the rails coming away from the frog but overall I've managed too leave the switch point area alone.
Great tip.
thanx
Bob
We all may have to start building our own turnouts - it looks like the supply train from China is off the tracks. I have turnouts coming from three different places to get what I needed. Every shop I talked to said they don't know if or when more will be available. I use Micro Engineering for flex track and straight turnouts - made in the USA - but they haven't got into the special shape business. I hope to talk to them about this at the Narrow Gauge convention. I use code 83 for my main lines and code 70 and 55 for branch lines and sidings.
I think I have what I need for now but when I get to the two planned expansions to the layout I will have to come up with a solution.
Peco track is expensive, but it's good quality. I think it's still made in the UK (but I'm not sure about that.)
dave
Dave............
As far as I know Peco is still made in England.
John....... If you are going short put out a call for all here to put in an under the bench search and destroy and see who comes up with how many.
I've got one Mark II riveted switch point #4 that doesn't have a lot of miles on it and a few new in the box Shinohara but all are code 100.
Let me know what you need.
see ya
Bob
Quote from: deemery on July 07, 2014, 10:11:54 AM
Peco track is expensive, but it's good quality. I think it's still made in the UK (but I'm not sure about that.)
dave
Dave
Your are correct make in UK - last time I looked into it they didn't offer curved turnouts in code 83 but I just found a source that has them. Thanks for the post - it got me to take another look at Peco.
Quote from: bparrish on July 07, 2014, 11:18:49 AM
Dave............
As far as I know Peco is still made in England.
John....... If you are going short put out a call for all here to put in an under the bench search and destroy and see who comes up with how many.
I've got one Mark II riveted switch point #4 that doesn't have a lot of miles on it and a few new in the box Shinohara but all are code 100.
Let me know what you need.
see ya
Bob
Bob
Thanks for the offer - right now I think I will have enough if everything I ordered comes in. Thanks to Dave's post I also have another possible source in Peco - they now offer curved turnouts in code 83. It has been many years since I looked at their line of flex track.
If you're ordering a quantity of PECO products, it's worth checking UK prices. When I did my big PECO order, I ordered from here: http://www.hattons.co.uk (http://www.hattons.co.uk) The savings in VAT by shipping overseas paid for the shipping itself. (But for some reason the hattons website isn't responding today.) edit Helps if I get the URL right http://www.ehattons.com
dave
Quote from: deemery on July 08, 2014, 09:13:41 AM
If you're ordering a quantity of PECO products, it's worth checking UK prices. When I did my big PECO order, I ordered from here: http://www.hattons.co.uk (http://www.hattons.co.uk) The savings in VAT by shipping overseas paid for the shipping itself. (But for some reason the hattons website isn't responding today.) edit Helps if I get the URL right http://www.ehattons.com (http://www.ehattons.com)
dave
Thanks will check it out.
Today we spent the day testing the track and fixing the rough spots. Two areas that need some rework and I think we will have the lower main operational. It sure is nice to see trains running on the layout!
Congratulations!!! ;D ;D ;D
Today GN 1701 was photographed making track testing runs on the Superior & Seattle RR. The locomotive ran a string of 6 heavy passenger cars both forward and backward through the lower level main without incident. Further tests are to be conducted tomorrow before certifying the lower main as ready for ballasting and moving on with construction of the upper level main line. A 2-6-6-2 steam locomotive and a GN GP-7 number 703 with a string of box cars was also observed running the lower main.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-160714214533.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-160714214608.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-160714214901.jpeg)
More photographs of the testing tomorrow.
Very cool.
Thanx
Bob
Neat.....that's a lot of rock!
Wow. Rock and now rollin' too!
Awesome effect!
John
Quote from: bparrish on July 17, 2014, 12:48:57 AM
Very cool.
Thanx
Bob
Thanks for stopping by Bob. Having trains running is very cool.
Quote from: GPdemayo on July 17, 2014, 09:11:31 AM
Neat.....that's a lot of rock!
Looks like a lot of rock right now - but when I get it detailed and start adding the trees and scenery it will fade into the background. Thanks for stopping buy Greg.
Quote from: Cuse on July 17, 2014, 09:14:28 AM
Wow. Rock and now rollin' too!
Awesome effect!
John
Yes John - we are rocking and rolling. I have a box car setup that is real loose so it really rocks and rolls anywhere the track isn't perfect. It is starting to get there. Thanks for stopping by.
Quote from: S&S RR on July 17, 2014, 06:15:54 PM
Quote from: Cuse on July 17, 2014, 09:14:28 AM
Wow. Rock and now rollin' too!
Awesome effect!
John
Yes John - we are rocking and rolling. I have a box car setup that is real loose so it really rocks and rolls anywhere the track isn't perfect. It is starting to get there. Thanks for stopping by.
Runs in my mind John Allen rigged a boxcar with a ball inside that would light up if it were switched roughly. Nowadays, with micro gyros, etc, you could do a lot more sophisticated 'hard running detector' car.
dave
All them rock walls look like where Darnell Ledbetter go hit in the head with a fallin' rock.
He ain't been right since!!! ::) ::) ::)
But the rest of the famly don't care - they're just glad to see the trains rollin' by again so
they can pump their arms and hear the Wooo-Hooo of the whistles or horns when the engineer
don't ignore them!!
Some of the newer engineers think that they're makin' obscene gestures!! ;D ;D ;D ;D
..very impressive!!
Quote from: deemery on July 17, 2014, 06:36:21 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on July 17, 2014, 06:15:54 PM
Quote from: Cuse on July 17, 2014, 09:14:28 AM
Wow. Rock and now rollin' too!
Awesome effect!
John
Yes John - we are rocking and rolling. I have a box car setup that is real loose so it really rocks and rolls anywhere the track isn't perfect. It is starting to get there. Thanks for stopping by.
Runs in my mind John Allen rigged a boxcar with a ball inside that would light up if it were switched roughly. Nowadays, with micro gyros, etc, you could do a lot more sophisticated 'hard running detector' car.
dave
I remember reading about John Allen's car with ball bearings and a light system. Today an accelerometer would provide all the feedback required to know how well someone was running a train. Great project idea! I think it will be a few years before I get to that one. ;)
I do plan on buying a small camera system that Erieman showed me when I was out in Arizona this past winter. Any rough track work would show up in the pictures. For now my box car with the loose truck screws is all the feedback on need to get the track operational.
Thanks for stopping by Dave - and for getting the project ideas generator going.
Quote from: gnatshop on July 17, 2014, 06:51:27 PM
All them rock walls look like where Darnell Ledbetter go hit in the head with a fallin' rock.
He ain't been right since!!! ::) ::) ::)
But the rest of the famly don't care - they're just glad to see the trains rollin' by again so
they can pump their arms and hear the Wooo-Hooo of the whistles or horns when the engineer
don't ignore them!!
Some of the newer engineers think that they're makin' obscene gestures!! ;D ;D ;D ;D
I don't remember if I mentioned the cave the blasting crew found - it has one of the biggest moonshine distilling operations we have ever seen all setup for the track laying crew. It will be one of the mini scenes for the visitors that really take a look at the details. One of the projects to be completed at a later date. If the Ledbetter's have any prototype pictures they would like to share it would be a real big help when I get to it.
Thanks for stopping by Dave.
Quote from: jlgrove on July 17, 2014, 07:15:20 PM
..very impressive!!
Thanks Jeff.
It will look a lot better when it's detailed and we have some structures to talk about.
Thanks for stopping by.
Here are a couple more pictures of the track testing operations. If you look closely you will spot some track going in on the upper levels of the mainline.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-200714104415.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-200714104415.jpeg)
UP 3671 a 2-6-6-2 pulling 6 passenger cars.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-200714104321.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-200714104321.jpeg)
GN 703 is held up on the main waiting for UP 3671 to back into a siding.
John,
Great to see trains running on the S&S RR. I know I've said it before but the color on the rockwork is very natural looking. Fantastic job on all the rockwork!
Tom ;D
John............
Great scenicing. The rock faces really dwarf the trains. In most of the world that is the case and you have captured it.
thanx
Bob
Quote from: bparrish on July 20, 2014, 03:18:19 PM
John............
Great scenicing. The rock faces really dwarf the trains. In most of the world that is the case and you have captured it.
thanx
Bob
Thanks Bob - The idea is to have three levels of layout where the train fits into each of them separately as you follow your train or into all three at once when you back away. We will see how it works when I get it detailed.
I spent 4 hours today finding a short that popped up when I fired up the tracks in the yard. The 4 banks of switches that I added when I built the main control panels paid for themselves today. I broke the layout up into power districts and blocks and added a switch for each so I could turn each block off for trouble shooting and for turning sound decoder engines off when they were not in use. Today's problem was that the yard all worked by itself but would short out when I turned on the upper main power district. After 4 hours of turning switches on and off I found a two red wires in the main control panel that were labeled correctly but connected to the wrong connectors. Without the trouble shooting switches I have no idea how long it would have taken to find the problem. If you are just starting to wire your layout add the switches - I'm sure glad I did.
Here is a couple picture of one of the four banks of switches. At this point I have 8 power districts, 8 reversing loops and 120 power blocks. The control panels are all wired for the planned expansions, I will just have to add another bank of switches for the additional power blocks.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-180314205310.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-200314215345.jpeg)
I'm going to take the next few days off from the layout and take my nephew up to Michigan's North country for a fishing trip. I need a vacation after hurting my brain tracing all those wires today. When we get back the yard is going to get a workout to test for any track work issues.
Quote from: S&S RR on July 20, 2014, 08:37:19 PM
I'm going to take the next few days off from the layout and take my nephew up to Michigan's North country for a fishing trip. I need a vacation after hurting my brain tracing all those wires today. When we get back the yard is going to get a workout to test for any track work issues.
Glad you planned ahead for them Ledbetter glitches!
But fishin' is a great brain reliever for next steps!!!! Actually, Mary Sue (my wife) is the one in the family that
loves fishin'! Although she's one of them 'sit her butt on the bank and watch'er cork' types!
Quote from: gnatshop on July 20, 2014, 09:24:15 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on July 20, 2014, 08:37:19 PM
I'm going to take the next few days off from the layout and take my nephew up to Michigan's North country for a fishing trip. I need a vacation after hurting my brain tracing all those wires today. When we get back the yard is going to get a workout to test for any track work issues.
Glad you planned ahead for them Ledbetter glitches!
But fishin' is a great brain reliever for next steps!!!! Actually, Mary Sue (my wife) is the one in the family that
loves fishin'! Although she's one of them 'sit her butt on the bank and watch'er cork' types!
David (Grand National) Thanks for the pictures for Ledbetter's cave I will use them. Tell your wife I said good luck with her fishing.
Interesting side story - when they were digging the basement for my neighbors house they dug up a big copper coil attached to a beautiful copper tank. It seems there was a time when the Ledbetter's were doing business in Michigan.
I'm back from my fishing trip - great trip and I came back with lots of new ideas to implement on the layout. Today it's back to the track work.
Welcome back John! Looking forward to some pictures.
I should have an update on the ovalix this weekend. Gee, so much to do, Cliff Powers, Howard Zane and my own! Where does the time go? And, I'm semi-retired.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on July 25, 2014, 10:22:27 AM
Welcome back John! Looking forward to some pictures.
I should have an update on the ovalix this weekend. Gee, so much to do, Cliff Powers, Howard Zane and my own! Where does the time go? And, I'm semi-retired.
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom
I'm putting the finishing touches on the yard track work and hope to post some pictures early next week.
John............
What ? ? ? ? I don't want to wait that long.
Instant gratification takes too long...........
see ya
Bob
Quote from: bparrish on July 25, 2014, 05:17:36 PM
John............
What ? ? ? ? I don't want to wait that long.
Instant gratification takes too long...........
see ya
Bob
Sorry Bob but you are going to have to wait - need to let the smoke clear before I can take any pictures. After making 100's of soldier joints top side I decided to start making the connections under the layout. Well, to make a long story short the soldiering iron fell in the waste basket when I pulled on the wrong wire. The smoke alarm alerted me to the problem. No fire just smoke. The basket was full of cork trimmings so now the layout room smells like burnt cork. We know the smoke alarm works! ;) :-[
Quote from: S&S RR on July 27, 2014, 08:33:46 PM
Sorry Bob but you are going to have to wait - need to let the smoke clear before I can take any pictures. After making 100's of soldier joints top side I decided to start making the connections under the layout. Well, to make a long story short the soldiering iron fell in the waste basket when I pulled on the wrong wire. The smoke alarm alerted me to the problem. No fire just smoke. The basket was full of cork trimmings so now the layout room smells like burnt cork. We know the smoke alarm works! ;) :-[
And this if the feller that helped design my favorite GM car!! :o :o :o
Sorry, John - just had to gig you a little! ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Quote from: gnatshop on July 27, 2014, 11:36:15 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on July 27, 2014, 08:33:46 PM
Sorry Bob but you are going to have to wait - need to let the smoke clear before I can take any pictures. After making 100's of soldier joints top side I decided to start making the connections under the layout. Well, to make a long story short the soldiering iron fell in the waste basket when I pulled on the wrong wire. The smoke alarm alerted me to the problem. No fire just smoke. The basket was full of cork trimmings so now the layout room smells like burnt cork. We know the smoke alarm works! ;) :-[
And this if the feller that helped design my favorite GM car!! :o :o :o
Sorry, John - just had to gig you a little! ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Learned how to burn tires up on that program. I think there is a lot of old rubber tires mixed in with the cork we use for roadbed - smells like it.
It has been awhile since I posted a progress picture on the roundhouse build. I have been scratch building the doors which works real well as a sit down for a half an hour job while I'm working on track work. Each of the doors are hand built (18 in total) and will be sanded to size for each of the 9 stalls of the roundhouse. Here is a photograph of the work in progress on my workbench. I whole lot of cutting and gluing but I think it is going to be worth it.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-280714145825.jpeg)
John,
Hey, I forgot all about the roundhouse! The doors look great!
Tom ;D
....wow, nice work on the doors....seeing this really makes me love my laser(s).......
Quote from: ACL1504 on July 28, 2014, 06:37:06 PM
John,
Hey, I forgot all about the roundhouse! The doors look great!
Tom ;D
I can see why you forgot, it has been on the back burner for months while I completed the lower level track work. I have a couple more wiring issues to resolve and I think I will have the lower level complete and ready for ballast.
Quote from: jlgrove on July 28, 2014, 06:51:48 PM
....wow, nice work on the doors....seeing this really makes me love my laser(s).......
Jeff
I agree laser(s) are great tools but sometimes I want it to look like it was hand made. There will be slight differences in the size of these door because I made the portals for the front of the roundhouse by hand - using a template. The way Grandpa used to do it. Thanks for stopping by.
Here are a couple pictures of GN 703 with a load of 15 brand new 40 foot boxcars making it's way around the lower mainline during this mornings track testing. Wayne and I gave the track work a good workout and started experimenting with the ballasting.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-290714165204.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-290714165254.jpeg)
John,
Looking very good my friend, very good! Love the saw mill on the upper level! Are you pulling all Kadee 40' cars?
Tom ;D
The first step in ballasting is to use good old beach sand to fill in the area around the track. Here we are just getting started.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-290714165338.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-290714165338.jpeg)
At this point the track work has been painted with rail brown paint and spiked down with track nails in the center. The sand is added to save on ballast. After the sand dries we will add the final coat of ballast.
The next step will be to remove the track nails and do the final cleanup of the track. Then it will be weathered and detailed.
I will post pictures of each step as we go along. I'm using 4:1 white glue to hold everything in place. The sand and the ballast is sprayed with wet water first and then the glue is added with a large turkey baster.
This is a mountain railroad set in the 1940's or early 50's so the ties are purposely left at odd angles here and there so they don't look like the machine laid ties of a modern railroad.
Quote from: ACL1504 on July 29, 2014, 05:10:20 PM
John,
Looking very good my friend, very good! Love the saw mill on the upper level! Are you pulling all Kadee 40' cars?
Tom ;D
Hi Tom - thanks for the kind words.
Yes, the cars are all 40" Kadee's that I have been collecting for years. First time they have been out of the box. Lots of weathering to do at some point. Another project for another day.
I have a narrow gauge wood trestle planned for the center of the upper level scene. I also have the FSM sand house kit about 60 percent completed on my workbench that will go to the right of the saw mill on the upper level.
John,
At one time I was collecting the Kadee cars and I think about 200+! I compared the Kadee to the Accurail and Blueprint series and decided to go that route.
By then the Out of Production Kadee's were selling like hot cakes on Ebay. I sold 150 of them and pretty much doubled my original investment. I did keep many of the favorites but still need to weather another 25 or so. Seems like building a railroad model never stops!
Tom ;D
Looking good John. Great idea to use sand as a filler to save on ballast. :D
Quote from: ACL1504 on July 29, 2014, 05:44:14 PM.... Seems like building a railroad model never stops!
Well let's hope it doesn't. What fun would that be. :D
Quote from: ACL1504 on July 29, 2014, 05:44:14 PM
John,
At one time I was collecting the Kadee cars and I think about 200+! I compared the Kadee to the Accurail and Blueprint series and decided to go that route.
By then the Out of Production Kadee's were selling like hot cakes on Ebay. I sold 150 of them and pretty much doubled my original investment. I did keep many of the favorites but still need to weather another 25 or so. Seems like building a railroad model never stops!
Tom ;D
I try not to look at Ebay prices and I especially don't want my wife to know what some of the stuff is going for like the FSM and SRMW kits. ;) I actually stopped using Ebay about 6 years ago after a bad experience with their PAYPAL service. I have most of the older kits that I wanted, and for the few that I would still buy I pick them up at shows when the price is right. I brought home some good finds from the EXPO last year.
I'm not sure how many of the Kadee's I have but I bought them all below the MSRP. I will only sell the stuff I don't find a place for on the layout.
I'm hoping to keep this model railroad thing going for at least another 50 years.
Quote from: ReadingBob on July 29, 2014, 06:02:37 PM
Looking good John. Great idea to use sand as a filler to save on ballast. :D
Quote from: ACL1504 on July 29, 2014, 05:44:14 PM.... Seems like building a railroad model never stops!
Well let's hope it doesn't. What fun would that be. :D
Thanks for the kind comments - and yes the sand does save some big $$$ - here in Michigan you can dig a hole just about anywhere and find beach sand. It really works well as a base coat for any scenery.
And, yes you are correct we sure don't want to finish the railroad model. No danger of that happening here for the next 50 years or so.
John...
Great idea on the sub layer sand.
See ya
Bob
I'm playing with using fall transition colors in the higher elevations. Here are a couple of picture of my test grove of Aspen trees. What do you think?
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-300714195920.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-300714195920.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-300714195821.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-300714195821.jpeg)
The Aspen trees look great!
I've never lived where they grew, but I've visited the area.
The black spots on the trunks definitely identify them, and they did grow out of
rocky barren areas that make you wonder if there was enough soil!
Their underground root sysem should continue to populate your higher areas!
A super addition for the higher areas.
John.............
Given David's remark above.............. he is absolutely correct about the nature of aspens.
I just got back from Yellowstone and this was a topic of conversation.
They have an extensive tuberous root structure that causes more trees to come from the root structures than from seed. Thus they grow in tight groves and in rock draws and creases that collect water. They also are stimulated by fires that fry off the tops.
They are also very susceptible to the pressures of grazing of animals. They don't do well when the tops keep getting munched off by deer and elk.
However........ deer and elk are, like most other animals.......... an energy conservation machine. People are just lazy. They will search out food sources that are the easiest to gain access to. Thus if the hillside is step enough, aspens will come back very well as the critters will not work it unless they have run out of everything else.
So............ keep planting those aspens............. they look great.
The problem with trees on a model railroad........... once you plant the first tree it yells for a thousand more ! !
see ya
Bob
Hi,
great looking rockwork.....while I was looking at the pictures I haven´t scrolled down to the bottom and I could only see the upper portion of them leaning to the rocks and I thought it´s a picture from original rocks with trees....great.
Keep it going,regards,Chris
Quote from: S&S RR on July 29, 2014, 05:18:54 PM
Quote from: ACL1504 on July 29, 2014, 05:10:20 PM
John,
Looking very good my friend, very good! Love the saw mill on the upper level! Are you pulling all Kadee 40' cars?
Tom ;D
Hi Tom - thanks for the kind words.
Yes, the cars are all 40" Kadee's that I have been collecting for years. First time they have been out of the box. Lots of weathering to do at some point. Another project for another day.
I have a narrow gauge wood trestle planned for the center of the upper level scene. I also have the FSM sand house kit about 60 percent completed on my workbench that will go to the right of the saw mill on the upper level.
Good Morning John,
You are doing a superb job on this and I have to give you kudos on your rock work that looks phenomenal!!!!!! As for the picture with the 'Kadee' car's that Tom had mentioned, I have been collecting 'Kadee' cars over the past 10+ years and have approx. 400+ of them and this looks like it may be my one form of retirement due to that the rest of the economy has gone into the dump, but they seam to still be holding there value. Lot of work ahead to get these all weathered. Thanks for sharing you post.. Looking GOOD!!!!!!!!!!!! :)
Quote from: Twist67 on July 31, 2014, 08:09:06 AM
Hi,
great looking rockwork.....while I was looking at the pictures I haven´t scrolled down to the bottom and I could only see the upper portion of them leaning to the rocks and I thought it´s a picture from original rocks with trees....great.
Keep it going,regards,Chris
Chris
Thanks for the kind words and for stopping by. The picture of the trees is just a test to see if I like how the colors look so the trees are just leaning against the rock work. I will be doing a test planting in the next few weeks. Right now I think I will be going with the color change theme for the upper elevations.
Quote from: Bntrainmaster on July 31, 2014, 08:34:55 AM
Quote from: S&S RR on July 29, 2014, 05:18:54 PM
Quote from: ACL1504 on July 29, 2014, 05:10:20 PM
John,
Looking very good my friend, very good! Love the saw mill on the upper level! Are you pulling all Kadee 40' cars?
Tom ;D
Hi Tom - thanks for the kind words.
Hi Bart
You do have a big investment in Kadee cars. I have not counted mine yet but I think the number will be between 50 and 100. I have a string of 20 out on the layout right now that I'm using to test the track work. Thanks for stopping by the thread and for the words of encouragement.
Yes, the cars are all 40" Kadee's that I have been collecting for years. First time they have been out of the box. Lots of weathering to do at some point. Another project for another day.
I have a narrow gauge wood trestle planned for the center of the upper level scene. I also have the FSM sand house kit about 60 percent completed on my workbench that will go to the right of the saw mill on the upper level.
Good Morning John,
You are doing a superb job on this and I have to give you kudos on your rock work that looks phenomenal!!!!!! As for the picture with the 'Kadee' car's that Tom had mentioned, I have been collecting 'Kadee' cars over the past 10+ years and have approx. 400+ of them and this looks like it may be my one form of retirement due to that the rest of the economy has gone into the dump, but they seam to still be holding there value. Lot of work ahead to get these all weathered. Thanks for sharing you post.. Looking GOOD!!!!!!!!!!!! :)
Great looking Aspen trees. Those will really "Pop" in front of those huge rock walls. The layout is really coming along.
Nice job...John
The color change for higher elevations will be a nice touch. Are you also going to go for some forced perspective?
dave
Quote from: Cuse on July 31, 2014, 04:12:32 PM
Great looking Aspen trees. Those will really "Pop" in front of those huge rock walls. The layout is really coming along.
Nice job...John
Thanks John
It's nice to be working on something were you can see the change. For the past few months it has been all track work and it doesn't look like much changes in a picture.
Quote from: deemery on July 31, 2014, 05:42:06 PM
The color change for higher elevations will be a nice touch. Are you also going to go for some forced perspective?
dave
Thanks Dave
The color does make a big difference. Yes - I'm using force perspective with the trees and I think there will be a few N scale structures in my future as well.
The ballasting has begun. Here are a couple test areas that I have completed with the sand and the ballasting.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-010814173727.jpeg)
This is in the yard.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-010814173609.jpeg)
This is the mainline just before the tunnel - I posted a picture of this area without the ballast last week.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-010814173727.jpeg%5B/imgThis%20area%20is%20in%20the%20yard.https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-010814173609.jpegThis%20is%20the%20mainline%20just%20before%20the%20tunnel%20-%20I%20posted%20a%20picture%20of%20this%20area%20before%20the%20ballasting%20last%20week.) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-010814173727.jpeg%5B/imgThis%20area%20is%20in%20the%20yard.http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-010814173609.jpegThis%20is%20the%20mainline%20just%20before%20the%20tunnel%20-%20I%20posted%20a%20picture%20of%20this%20area%20before%20the%20ballasting%20last%20week.)
John,
A list of your ballasting materials would be greatly appreciated. Also, your techniques for putting them down.
Thanks,
Chip Stevens
Quote from: BandOGuy on August 01, 2014, 06:13:05 PM
John,
A list of your ballasting materials would be greatly appreciated. Also, your techniques for putting them down.
Thanks,
Chip Stevens
Hi Chip
To start to answer your question here are some pictures of the ballast on the Great Northern line in the Cascade mountains. I have taken pictures at a number of locations and this is representative of the material used in the area I'm modeling.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-010814194540.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-010814194509.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-010814194430.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-010814194349.jpeg)
I'm using Woodland Scenics Fine Ballast material which in my opinion best represents the size of the stones in HO scale. After lots of experimenting I settled on a mixture of colors in the ratio of 1 part black, 2 parts brown, 4 parts buff, and 4 parts gray.
As I mentioned above, I start out using beach sand to fill in the area so I don't have to buy as much ballast material. I then spread the ballast material with a 1/2 paint brush. I'm looking for a 1940's era ballast job so it is not even like you would see today on a machine applied line. I have used reference pictures from a number of layouts including George Sellios' F&SM to decide on the look I'm after. Once I get the material in place with the brush I wet it down with a fine spray bottle with water and a drop or two of soap. Then I apply white glue, in a 3 parts water 1 part glue mixture, using a turkey baster. Getting it wet first is important so it doesn't move on you as you applied the glue. It is also important to wet it down all the way to the wood with glue.
I hope this answers your questions - please let me know if you have any more.
Love your attention to detail John - looks like it's really coming together. Those aspens are very nice. I really appreciate the extra explanations and detailed methods.
John,
Much appreciated. Now I have to figure out how to bookmark this thread so my old memory will remember where to find the info.
Thanks again.
Quote from: gfoyle01 on August 01, 2014, 08:13:37 PM
Love your attention to detail John - looks like it's really coming together. Those aspens are very nice. I really appreciate the extra explanations and detailed methods.
Thanks for the kind words and for stopping by the thread.
Quote from: BandOGuy on August 01, 2014, 08:47:11 PM
John,
Much appreciated. Now I have to figure out how to bookmark this thread so my old memory will remember where to find the info.
Thanks again.
Chip
I started a file for my notes years ago using word. I just cut and paste the information I want to save into the file with a heading that I can search on when I need it. Like ballasting in this case. It works real well for me. I just checked and it's over 300 pages and still functions just fine. Every few months I spend a few minutes organizing things in the file to make the searches easier.
The work on the S&S for the past week has been all research and replenishing some supplies like beach sand. I find that I enjoy the research as much as the actual building of layout. Tomorrow I plan on getting back to the ballasting the track work on the lower main line.
John....
I'm ready to see some progress........
And more great photos
Thanx
Bob
Quote from: bparrish on August 08, 2014, 06:02:27 PM
John....
I'm ready to see some progress........
And more great photos
Thanx
Bob
Bob
Okay - some progress pictures.
I started the day by making a change I have been thinking about for the last few months. Just a little mountain trim to make room for an extension of the trestle and a few more structures down the road. The two holes in the mountain are left over from my previous layout and will be covered over.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-090814195338.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-090814195338.jpeg)
I also made some progress on the ballasting and started experimenting with the talus and falling rocks in front of the tunnel opening.
First a few process pictures.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-090814195010.jpeg)
My turkey baster that hasn't found it way into the pictures yet. The duck tape is an important modification to get the maximum glue per squeeze.
As I mentioned before I wet everything down and then add lots of glue to make sure it gets all the way down to the base wood. Here is a picture of an area just after the glue is applied.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-090814195221.jpeg)
It soaks in fast.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-090814195303.jpeg)
A few more pictures of the area in front of the tunnel. In these progress pictures the glue is still wet. More pictures when the glue dries.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-090814194937.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-090814194937.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-090814194852.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-090814194852.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-090814194815.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-090814194815.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-090814194703.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-090814194703.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-090814194736.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-090814194736.jpeg)
John...
Did you study to be a geologist in a previous life time?
You sure have rock debris and talus figured out.
Thanx
Bob
Quote from: bparrish on August 09, 2014, 08:30:36 PM
John...
Did you study to be a geologist in a previous life time?
You sure have rock debris and talus figured out.
Thanx
Bob
Bob
Thanks for the kind words - my education is not in geology - but I have spent many years studying rock formations and how to model them. The talus I'm using is from all over the country and was collected to match the colors in the rock castings. The photographs don't seem to demonstrate that as well as I would like. My struggle right now is to take pictures that look the same as what I see with my own eyes. The iPhone camera seems to see a different color every time I take a picture. I think the fluorescent lights are playing games with it's electronic eye. I plan to breakout the SLR in the next few days and see if that makes a difference. I'm also replacing the fluorescent and incandescence lights with LED lighting.
John,
Those rocks look really nasty, which, in this case is a very good thing! Looks super.
Tom ;D
Here are some photographs with my SLR camera from two different angles and three different exposures. It is amazing the differences in color.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-100814130458.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-100814130458.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-100814130406.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-100814130406.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-100814130328.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-100814130328.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-100814130247.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-100814130247.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-100814130212.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-100814130212.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-100814130139.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-100814130139.jpeg)
John...
Again.............. Wow ! ! ! !
thanx
Bob
Today the first "fall colors" Aspen tree grove took root on the S&S RR. As I mentioned in a previous post, I have decided to model the higher elevations in fall colors. I have about 50 more trees for the next couple of groves completed and currently drying. The view from across the room is great - sorry I have to clean all the stuff on the bench work before I can take a picture. The trees, and the contrasting color really help to give the scene the depth I'm looking for.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-110814204251.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-110814204251.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-110814202648.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-110814202648.jpeg)
Man, that's a bunch of rock.....the aspens look great John, the'll really bring the scene together.
Quote from: GPdemayo on August 12, 2014, 08:44:27 AM
Man, that's a bunch of rock.....the aspens look great John, the'll really bring the scene together.
Thanks Gregory - I'm finally to the point on the layout where you can see the progress at the end of the day. I'm still spending most of my time on track work, but I have small areas all over the layout where I'm experimenting with final scenery.
John,
I also agree with Greg, the Aspens look great!
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on August 12, 2014, 02:55:06 PM
John,
I also agree with Greg, the Aspens look great!
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom
Now all I need is few thousand more - all in good time.
Quote from: S&S RR on August 12, 2014, 03:52:31 PM
Quote from: ACL1504 on August 12, 2014, 02:55:06 PM
John,
I also agree with Greg, the Aspens look great!
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom
Now all I need is few thousand more - all in good time.
You and me both, I need several hundred if not more Florida Pine trees not to mention a few hundred Cabbage Palms. 8) 8) 8) Oh, the pressure of it all! ;D
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on August 12, 2014, 04:26:01 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on August 12, 2014, 03:52:31 PM
Quote from: ACL1504 on August 12, 2014, 02:55:06 PM
John,
I also agree with Greg, the Aspens look great!
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom
Now all I need is few thousand more - all in good time.
You and me both, I need several hundred if not more Florida Pine trees not to mention a few hundred Cabbage Palms. 8) 8) 8) Oh, the pressure of it all! ;D
Tom ;D
By 2017 ;D
Quote from: BandOGuy on August 12, 2014, 06:46:43 PM
Quote from: ACL1504 on August 12, 2014, 04:26:01 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on August 12, 2014, 03:52:31 PM
Quote from: ACL1504 on August 12, 2014, 02:55:06 PM
John,
I also agree with Greg, the Aspens look great!
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom
Now all I need is few thousand more - all in good time.
You and me both, I need several hundred if not more Florida Pine trees not to mention a few hundred Cabbage Palms. 8) 8) 8) Oh, the pressure of it all! ;D
Tom ;D
By 2017 ;D
Say What? Tom 8)
What happens in 2017?
NMRA National Convention comes to O-town.
Thanks John.....that could be interesting...
So we are all going to meet at Tom's place in 2017?
Quote from: S&S RR on August 14, 2014, 03:55:05 PM
So we are all going to meet at Tom's place in 2017?
Here's what I have to say about that!
YEPPER! Tom ;D
PARTY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Quote from: ACL1504 on August 14, 2014, 04:23:01 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on August 14, 2014, 03:55:05 PM
So we are all going to meet at Tom's place in 2017?
Here's what I have to say about that! YEPPER!
Tom ;D
Does this mean I have to build something for you before 2017? :P
Quote from: ReadingBob on August 14, 2014, 05:04:58 PM
Quote from: ACL1504 on August 14, 2014, 04:23:01 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on August 14, 2014, 03:55:05 PM
So we are all going to meet at Tom's place in 2017?
Here's what I have to say about that! YEPPER!
Tom ;D
Does this mean I have to build something for you before 2017? :P
Bob,
Yep, it sure do (sic) mean exactly that. BTW, I found the yard office #2 for you! Now, back to John's thread, sorry my friend for stealing your thread.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ReadingBob on August 14, 2014, 05:04:58 PM
Quote from: ACL1504 on August 14, 2014, 04:23:01 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on August 14, 2014, 03:55:05 PM
So we are all going to meet at Tom's place in 2017?
Here's what I have to say about that! YEPPER!
Tom ;D
Does this mean I have to build something for you before 2017? :P
I think it means we all do! Oh and Tom - you can use my thread anytime to plan your parties
;D
I'm looking forward to it!
John,
Thank you, and so am I!
Tom ;D
I spent my train time today working on the Stone Roundhouse project. I have been putting in a little time working on the doors in the past few weeks - but this is the first time I devoted a 5 hour block of time getting back to the construction in about 6 months. I completed the roof on the lower portion of the roundhouse and painted it the initial coat of grimy black. Then I got started on the upper roof - got about half of the construction paper glued down today. In addition to the work on the roof I glued more of the moldings to the doors for the roundhouse. A couple more hours and I should have the doors ready for painting.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-160814191136.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-160814191136.jpeg)
Lower roof before painting - notice the how 6 months of fluorescent lights changed the color of the paper I'm using for the tar paper roof.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-160814201545.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-160814201545.jpeg)
Lower roof after the first coat of grimy black paint.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-160814201619.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-160814201619.jpeg)
Getting started on the upper roof.
Today the tar paper roof was completed on the Roundhouse. Also, completed the construction of the doors - they are now ready for fitting and final sanding.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170814190217.jpeg)
Looks like you've got a good start on the sandin' dust for the old-time scenery methods!!
OOPS! Told my age, didn' I? ;D ;D ;D
John........
I hadn't paid attention to the door openings...... Round !
The doors are great...
thanx
Bob
Quote from: gnatshop on August 17, 2014, 10:42:15 PM
Looks like you've got a good start on the sandin' dust for the old-time scenery methods!!
OOPS! Told my age, didn' I? ;D ;D ;D
I have three jars of saw dust from different grits of sandpaper that I used for the saw mill. I know it will be used again. I guess that makes me old too.
Quote from: bparrish on August 18, 2014, 01:30:06 AM
John........
I hadn't paid attention to the door openings...... Round !
The doors are great...
thanx
Bob
Thanks Bob
I have many hours in them. The nice thing about pictures is they point out where you still have work to do.
Great build John.....that is a great structure and could be the focal point of a very impressive scene.....can't wait to see what you're going to do with it. 8)
John......
You're not going to park a bunch of dismals in there are you ? ? ? ?
see ya
Bob
Quote from: bparrish on August 18, 2014, 04:02:31 PM
John......
You're not going to park a bunch of dismals in there are you ? ? ? ?
see ya
Bob
Hey Bob.....what's a dismal?
John...........
As in Diesel ! ! ! !
You're not going to pack that great round house full of those fuel smelling scrap yard candidates ? ? ? ? Are you ? ? ?
see ya
Bob
Quote from: GPdemayo on August 18, 2014, 02:22:20 PM
Great build John.....that is a great structure and could be the focal point of a very impressive scene.....can't wait to see what you're going to do with it. 8)
Greg
Thanks, I'm looking forward to putting it in place on the layout.
Quote from: bparrish on August 18, 2014, 04:25:36 PM
John...........
As in Diesel ! ! ! !
You're not going to pack that great round house full of those fuel smelling scrap yard candidates ? ? ? ? Are you ? ? ?
see ya
Bob
Bob
The Superior & Seattle is in the process of acquiring a full complement of steam locomotives. I believe it will be very rare for a diesel to find it's way into the roundhouse.
John.....check out the MTH steamers. I have about a dozen and they run really great, are well detailed and with the cast boilers, they pull well. The web adddress for their 2014 catalogue is below.
http://www.mthtrains.com/sites/default/files/catalog_files/2014_ho_v_1/index.html
Greg...
I wen't out to the link you put up........... Great steamers......... I wonder why a perfectly good company like that would waste all that energy on designing and marketing dismals.
Oh well............ no accounting for some things.
John...
Glad to hear that an errant Diesel would have to live out in the rain.
see ya
Bob
Quote from: S&S RR on August 19, 2014, 09:00:28 AM
Quote from: bparrish on August 18, 2014, 04:25:36 PM
John...........
As in Diesel ! ! ! !
You're not going to pack that great round house full of those fuel smelling scrap yard candidates ? ? ? ? Are you ? ? ?
see ya
Bob
Bob
The Superior & Seattle is in the process of acquiring a full complement of steam locomotives. I believe it will be very rare for a diesel to find it's way into the roundhouse.
That's a most enlightened attitude on the part of the S&S railroad management!
(Now if only we could produce some sort of "climate change" argument in support of steamers...)
dave
OK Dave.............
Here is a climate based response for returning to steamers.
There is no debate that an external combustion engine is fundamentally cleaner as there is a greater amount of time for a more complete combustion. Arguably in a Diesel cycle the combustion is more complete than a gasoline fired engine but if you ever see black there is incomplete combustion.
In later oil fired steamers there were times when the fire was being over fueled, usually when getting a train rolling but it would be interesting to know how modern technologies could be applied to increase economies of external combustion.
The real argument against steamers has to do with the incredibly high maintenance schedules that are required. I recall reading some years ago that the major railroads had as much as a quarter to a third of all motive power down for maintenance at any given time. The turn around times for steamers was much longer than the turnaround time for diesels.
see ya
Bob
Quote from: deemery on August 19, 2014, 01:16:16 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on August 19, 2014, 09:00:28 AM
Quote from: bparrish on August 18, 2014, 04:25:36 PM
John...........
As in Diesel ! ! ! !
You're not going to pack that great round house full of those fuel smelling scrap yard candidates ? ? ? ? Are you ? ? ?
see ya
Bob
Bob
The Superior & Seattle is in the process of acquiring a full complement of steam locomotives. I believe it will be very rare for a diesel to find it's way into the roundhouse.
That's a most enlightened attitude on the part of the S&S railroad management!
(Now if only we could produce some sort of "climate change" argument in support of steamers...)
dave
David
The decisions on the Superior Seattle are based on 1940's data - before political science invented global warming or climate change - now that we can't find the warming. In the region we operate the climate is always changing and we predict the the winter of 2014 will see the coldest temperatures and highest snow falls ever recorded in our area of operation. This extremely cold will be followed by warmer and cooler years in the future. These trends will get more and more sever if you don't start believing in my politics. Sure wish we could predict the stock market as well as we predict the weather.
It sure would be an interesting Engineering project to design and build a steam engine using today's technology and materials.
Quote from: bparrish on August 19, 2014, 02:54:13 PM
OK Dave.............
Here is a climate based response for returning to steamers.
There is no debate that an external combustion engine is fundamentally cleaner as there is a greater amount of time for a more complete combustion. Arguably in a Diesel cycle the combustion is more complete than a gasoline fired engine but if you ever see black there is incomplete combustion.
In later oil fired steamers there were times when the fire was being over fueled, usually when getting a train rolling but it would be interesting to know how modern technologies could be applied to increase economies of external combustion.
The real argument against steamers has to do with the incredibly high maintenance schedules that are required. I recall reading some years ago that the major railroads had as much as a quarter to a third of all motive power down for maintenance at any given time. The turn around times for steamers was much longer than the turnaround time for diesels.
see ya
Bob
I believe we could solve most of the maintenance issues using today's technology and materials. Look what is being done with Automobiles today. They are heavier due to the Government crash regulations but we have seen a 100% improvement in fuel efficiency with the use of new technology and materials in just the past 10 years. Okay you guys started it - back to my trains.
PRIOR TO HAPPY HOUR
Diesels? We don't need no stinking diesels.
Well, maybe a few. Just for trial. The tribulations will come later. Much later.
The nice part of modeling or recreating the "Transition Era" is you don't have to worry about the Environmental Problems Agency or PC (political crapiness) when making motive power decisions. You buy what you enjoy. and site the service facilities where YOU want (no environmental impact studies, no NIMBY's).
And that era was also prior to the real curse of our society, the MBA. Actually, that degree should be MBAE, Much Blather About Everything. When did the railroads thrive? Pre diesels and MBA's. Cost? It's here and done this way because I want it that way.
I won't bore you any more with how we've ignored OSHA, (the radius on the top of those roundhouse doors doesn't meet Federal standards) or DoL, (your erectors aren't being paid minimum wage).
But I digress ('call it 'Gnatitis)!
The whole build thread is an inspiration to all of us and also serves as a very useful venue to the procrastinators and excuse makers (ME) in the crowd.
Please keep up the great "work".
[/size]Thanks!! :)
Quote from: BandOGuy on August 19, 2014, 05:30:10 PM
PRIOR TO HAPPY HOUR
Diesels? We don't need no stinking diesels.
Well, maybe a few. Just for trial. The tribulations will come later. Much later.
The nice part of modeling or recreating the "Transition Era" is you don't have to worry about the Environmental Problems Agency or PC (political crapiness) when making motive power decisions. You buy what you enjoy. and site the service facilities where YOU want (no environmental impact studies, no NIMBY's).
And that era was also prior to the real curse of our society, the MBA. Actually, that degree should be MBAE, Much Blather About Everything. When did the railroads thrive? Pre diesels and MBA's. Cost? It's here and done this way because I want it that way.
I won't bore you any more with how we've ignored OSHA, (the radius on the top of those roundhouse doors doesn't meet Federal standards) or DoL, (your erectors aren't being paid minimum wage).
But I digress ('call it 'Gnatitis)!
The whole build thread is an inspiration to all of us and also serves as a very useful venue to the procrastinators and excuse makers (ME) in the crowd.
Please keep up the great "work".
Thanks!! :)
Thanks for the kind words and for following the thread. I spent my entire career dealing with stupid government regulations and bean counter logic getting in the way of real progress, so it's kind of a sore spot. Now that I'm retired I'm thankful for the time to play with my trains (can I say that?) , but I'm very concerned for our children and grandchildren.
Now for some progress pictures on the Stone Roundhouse build. Today, I test painted one of the doors, roughed in one of the wall sections between the upper and lower roof sections, finished painting the stone work, and decided on a final trim design. Here are a few progress pictures.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190814174129.jpeg)
A little to new looking needs some A&I wash.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190814174053.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190814174010.jpeg)
John..........
The color scheme is great but it will be criminal to grunge it up with coal soot.......
see ya
Bob
Quote from: bparrish on August 19, 2014, 07:00:40 PM
John..........
The color scheme is great but it will be criminal to grunge it up with coal soot.......
see ya
Bob
It is either coal soot or diesels I choose coal soot.
John,
I like your stone work and color. You have one of the most beautiful roundhouse that I see.
Eric Québec.
Quote from: EricQuebec on August 20, 2014, 05:56:28 AM
John,
I like your stone work and color. You have one of the most beautiful roundhouse that I see.
Eric Québec.
Eric
Thanks for your kind words and for watching the thread.
John, even though the roundhouse looks great, I saw one thing missing so I found
a sign for it!
Quote from: gnatshop on August 20, 2014, 02:41:44 PM
John, even though the roundhouse looks great, I saw one thing missing so I found
a sign for it!
David
That's perfect it's going on the roundhouse or the machine shop which will be in front of it on the layout. Do you have a higher resolution picture of it?
John, the original picture was a PNG image that was 80.3 KB.
E- mail me at gnatshop@gmail.com with your e-mail address and
I'll send it to you!
David
I sent you an email. Thanks,
Quote from: bparrish on August 19, 2014, 07:00:40 PM
John..........
The color scheme is great but it will be criminal to grunge it up with coal soot.......
see ya
Bob
John,
It may be criminal to soot it up but also very necessary! BTW, looks great!
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on August 21, 2014, 06:34:27 AM
Quote from: bparrish on August 19, 2014, 07:00:40 PM
John..........
The color scheme is great but it will be criminal to grunge it up with coal soot.......
see ya
Bob
John,
It may be criminal to soot it up but also very necessary! BTW, looks great!
Tom ;D
Yes - we will be adding A&I, and chalk. A roundhouse never had a new paint job.
Wayne Olson helped me plant a few more trees on the S&S RR today.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210814182642.jpeg)
Here are a few photographs of our work in progress.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210814183522.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210814183449.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210814183411.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210814183340.jpeg)
Quote from: ACL1504 on August 21, 2014, 06:34:27 AM
Quote from: bparrish on August 19, 2014, 07:00:40 PM
John..........
The color scheme is great but it will be criminal to grunge it up with coal soot.......
see ya
Bob
John,
It may be criminal to soot it up but also very necessary! BTW, looks great!
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom
Yes soot can be beautiful.
A few prototype pictures from my travels that I'm using to create the aspen tree scenes.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-180314212710.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-230314145301.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-230314144745.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-300314085435.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-300314083958.jpeg)
Those photos are a hint that fall is coming... I once had a business trip to Denver in mid Sept, and took an extra day to drive around the Front Range (particularly DSP&P country). Great photos, just like I remember it...
dave
Great photos John.....Pegi and I have been going out there since 2001 and we love the area. If we were 30 years younger, we would have moved out there. I love to design and build with wood and stone and it fits in out there so much better than Florida.
I also got to take a bunch of mountain flying lessons in Leadville, CO and Bozeman, MT.....what a thrill and change from flying around flat old Florida.
Quote from: deemery on August 22, 2014, 03:12:26 AM
Those photos are a hint that fall is coming... I once had a business trip to Denver in mid Sept, and took an extra day to drive around the Front Range (particularly DSP&P country). Great photos, just like I remember it...
dave
The key is making the aspens on the layout look like those in the prototype pictures. I try to get out to the mountains as often as possible. Thanks for following the thread.
Quote from: GPdemayo on August 22, 2014, 09:29:29 AM
Great photos John.....Pegi and I have been going out there since 2001 and we love the area. If we were 30 years younger, we would have moved out there. I love to design and build with wood and stone and it fits in out there so much better than Florida.
I also got to take a bunch of mountain flying lessons in Leadville, CO and Bozeman, MT.....what a thrill and change from flying around flat old Florida.
Amy and I spend as much time as we can in the mountains, too many family ties to move out there - and of coarse why would you move a mountain layout to the mountains. If I lived out there I would probably model Michigan.
I made significant progress on the Stone Roundhouse build today. By the end of the day I had all of the wall sections for the front of the roundhouse assembled fitted and ready for painting. Also, added the glass to the window castings and have them all ready for installation. Here is a progress picture of fitting the wall sections.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-230814190529.jpeg)
John,
You're getting there and it is looking good.
Tom ;D
Those immense foreboding rockpiles are really coming to life now. This is a spectacular layout!
John
Quote from: ACL1504 on August 24, 2014, 07:54:43 AM
John,
You're getting there and it is looking good.
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom
It is really nice to be to the point where you can see a difference at the end of the day.
Quote from: Cuse on August 24, 2014, 09:26:37 AM
Those immense foreboding rockpiles are really coming to life now. This is a spectacular layout!
John
Thanks John
It is amazing how the room is getting bigger as I add more detail and color- this is really getting to be fun now. The fall yellow aspens were a good idea.
In the coming weeks I will take another set of full room pictures so we can compare them to the rock pile pictures ;D Thanks for following along.
The front walls have been painted and glued into place on the Stone Roundhouse. The new paint needs some A&I and chalk but we are starting to make progress. Also, started fitting the moldings and getting them ready for painting. Next step will be to add the window castings while the paint dries on the moldings. It won't be long now and we will be installing those goose neck lights from Slim.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250814115444.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250814115444.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250814115356.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250814115356.jpeg)
John
u should do a clinic at the NGC on how to install and paint rock castings!!!
great work !!
vikas
What a beautiful building :)
Quote from: vikas chander on August 25, 2014, 02:09:31 PM
John
u should do a clinic at the NGC on how to install and paint rock castings!!!
great work !!
vikas
Maybe at a future one. This year I'm standing down - my daughter is getting married in October so I couldn't afford the time or the dollars to go to the Narrow Gauge this year.
Quote from: Janbouli on August 25, 2014, 02:15:12 PM
What a beautiful building :)
Thanks - I'm still looking at all the details that need to be added. I am looking forward to seeing how it looks placed in it's spot on the layout.
Here are a couple pictures with the bright yellow toned down with a A&I wash. Looks more like a steam locomotive has visited the area.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250814164507.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250814164333.jpeg)
Excellent job on the stonework.
8)
Quote from: ak-milw on August 25, 2014, 07:29:39 PM
Excellent job on the stonework.
8)
Andy
Thanks for the kind words and for watching the thread.
Looking good John, looking very good.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on August 26, 2014, 07:38:40 AM
Looking good John, looking very good.
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom - That Roundhouse has been on my workbench for so long I think it has grown roots.
John,
Good talking to you yesterday. As I mentioned, lots going on currently and have been out of the forum loop quite a bit. Your roundhouse is looking awesome. Can't wait to see it totally complete. And then there is the trees. You and Wayne better keep practicing, because when you guys get down here, we are going to build lots of trees. Drop me an email with the supplies I need to get.
The Chester station is finished and ready for judging. Most of my clinic information is complete, so-o-o, I'm getting ready.
Enjoy your week.
Frank / Erieman
Quote from: Erieman on August 26, 2014, 01:54:34 PM
John,
Good talking to you yesterday. As I mentioned, lots going on currently and have been out of the forum loop quite a bit. Your roundhouse is looking awesome. Can't wait to see it totally complete. And then there is the trees. You and Wayne better keep practicing, because when you guys get down here, we are going to build lots of trees. Drop me an email with the supplies I need to get.
The Chester station is finished and ready for judging. Most of my clinic information is complete, so-o-o, I'm getting ready.
Enjoy your week.
Frank / Erieman
Hi Frank
Yes - it was fun catching up with you yesterday. Thanks for the kind words on the Roundhouse and yes we will keep practicing until we get it right with the trees. We planted a few more today - I will post pictures later tonight when I get the chip out of the camera. Oh and pay real close attention to the rocks we used for talus cause we are going back into the desert to resupply and we are not coming back out without them this time.
I will plan on spending a couple days with you making and planting trees this winter on our annual - okay we have had enough snow trip. Email will follow with what you need to buy.
Make sure you update your thread with the finished depot pictures.
...I just can't get over how great John's stone work looks.....
Quote from: jlgrove on August 26, 2014, 08:43:42 PM
...I just can't get over how great John's stone work looks.....
Thanks Jeff. The stone work looks better and better as we add the details. Adding the trees moves the walls back farther and farther. I wanted to create depth so all those structure builds to come are framed in a natural setting. I'm pulling some pictures off the camera this evening - should have some progress pictures from today posted soon.
Today, Wayne and I added some aspen trees to two new areas on the layout. I'm always experimenting with these scenes so today we added the yellow aspens and in the next step we will be adding evergreen trees. Here are a few pictures of the area we did today. In addition to the trees I also added the first layer of larger talus this mountain side.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-260814195330.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-260814195330.jpeg)
This first picture was with my iPhone.
The lighting isn't ready for iPhone's yet so I got out the SLR.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-260814220600.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-260814204057.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-260814204057.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-260814204122.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-260814204122.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-260814204153.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-260814204153.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-260814204224.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-260814204224.jpeg)
Here is a couple pictures before and after we worked on the second area.
Before the trees.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-260814195415.jpeg)
After the trees.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-260814195518.jpeg)
This third set of progress pictures is the area we call Wayne's Hole. Wayne made the comment when we were putting in the plaster mountains that it was a shame to block the view on the far wall with a mountain - but we need to add the large mountain in this area to hide a reinforcement pole in the basement. So we came up with a strategic tunnel placement that allowed a few through the mountain at eye level. Here is a series of three pictures that show how mountains look so far a viewed through the tunnel.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-260814203921.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-260814203921.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-260814203836.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-260814203836.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-260814203751.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-260814203751.jpeg)
In this final shot you are looking through the tunnel with the camera focused on the mountain 20 feet away.
Neat :)
Quote from: jrmueller on August 27, 2014, 08:07:44 AM
Neat :)
Thanks Jim and thanks for stopping by the thread.
John, they say that patience is a virtue. Your layout is simply amazing. All that mountainous terrain, is a lot of patience on display.
I am truely impressed sir. I really love the roundhouse!
Dave HWCRR
Seattle
Quote from: DACS on August 27, 2014, 09:34:15 AM
John, they say that patience is a virtue. Your layout is simply amazing. All that mountainous terrain, is a lot of patience on display.
I am truely impressed sir. I really love the roundhouse!
Dave HWCRR
Seattle
Dave
Thanks for the kind words. I'm not sure my wife would agree about the patience part - maybe I used them all up on those plaster mountains. ;D Thanks for following the thread.
John...
This is just getting cooler by the minute.
thanx
Bob
Ive always loved great rock work and i love this. Reminds me of the old "Eagles nest" on the G&D
Quote from: bparrish on August 27, 2014, 11:50:26 AM
John...
This is just getting cooler by the minute.
thanx
Bob
Thanks Bob - I'm having fun with it.
Quote from: clevermod01 on August 27, 2014, 01:23:29 PM
Ive always loved great rock work and i love this. Reminds me of the old "Eagles nest" on the G&D
Thanks Thom
There is a lot of John Allen influence in the layout design. There will be an Eagles nest sometime in the future.
John,
Speaking of the G&D, how about posting the photos you have of Allen's layout?
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on August 28, 2014, 08:06:50 AM
John,
Speaking of the G&D, how about posting the photos you have of Allen's layout?
Tom ;D
Tom
I will post the John Allen pictures here if the website doesn't come back up. At one time they were trying to sell DVD's to help pay for the website. I collected all the pictures I have off the internet so I guess I would be okay with copyright laws posting them here. There should be a place where his original work can be seen. I'm going to give it a couple weeks and see if I can find out what happened to the website.
Quote from: S&S RR on August 28, 2014, 08:36:20 AM
Quote from: ACL1504 on August 28, 2014, 08:06:50 AM
John,
Speaking of the G&D, how about posting the photos you have of Allen's layout?
Tom ;D
Tom
I will post the John Allen pictures here if the website doesn't come back up. At one time they were trying to sell DVD's to help pay for the website. I collected all the pictures I have off the internet so I guess I would be okay with copyright laws posting them here. There should be a place where his original work can be seen. I'm going to give it a couple weeks and see if I can find out what happened to the website.
Tom a followup to this question. I just read on the John Allen yahoo group that the website with the pictures is having issues but they are working on it.
This weekend I decided to tackle the projects of painting the lower bench work - Forest Green, and installing flooring in the train room. As of tonight, the painting is complete and I got a good start on the flooring. The way I feel right now from crawling on the floor all day - getting out of bed in the morning is going to be a challenge. I will post pictures when I get the flooring complete.
Quote from: S&S RR on August 30, 2014, 05:57:30 PM
This weekend I decided to tackle the projects of painting the lower bench work - Forest Green, and installing flooring in the train room. As of tonight, the painting is complete and I got a good start on the flooring. The way I feel right now from crawling on the floor all day - getting out of bed in the morning is going to be a challenge. I will post pictures when I get the flooring complete.
John,
I was thinking of asking my Congressman sponsor and pass a bill prohibiting us old geezers from crawling on the floor. But then I remembered I can't even count on him to be honest much less pass a Bill in Congress.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on August 31, 2014, 01:35:41 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on August 30, 2014, 05:57:30 PM
This weekend I decided to tackle the projects of painting the lower bench work - Forest Green, and installing flooring in the train room. As of tonight, the painting is complete and I got a good start on the flooring. The way I feel right now from crawling on the floor all day - getting out of bed in the morning is going to be a challenge. I will post pictures when I get the flooring complete.
John,
I was thinking of asking my Congressman sponsor and pass a bill prohibiting us old geezers from crawling on the floor. But then I remembered I can't even count on him to be honest much less pass a Bill in Congress.
Tom ;D
Bet your Congressman would crawl on the floor for a bill: the larger the bill, the faster he'd scurry. >:( >:(
OK............
I can solve this for you boys regarding getting down on the floor.......
Some years we had a rep from Idaho post a bill that would repeal gravity on the house floor........ Even the voters in Idaho noticed........ Bill Salli was a one term rep...........
see ya
Bob
Quote from: BandOGuy on August 31, 2014, 05:02:42 PM
Quote from: ACL1504 on August 31, 2014, 01:35:41 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on August 30, 2014, 05:57:30 PM
This weekend I decided to tackle the projects of painting the lower bench work - Forest Green, and installing flooring in the train room. As of tonight, the painting is complete and I got a good start on the flooring. The way I feel right now from crawling on the floor all day - getting out of bed in the morning is going to be a challenge. I will post pictures when I get the flooring complete.
John,
I was thinking of asking my Congressman sponsor and pass a bill prohibiting us old geezers from crawling on the floor. But then I remembered I can't even count on him to be honest much less pass a Bill in Congress.
Tom ;D
Bet your Congressman would crawl on the floor for a bill: the larger the bill, the faster he'd scurry. >:( >:(
I bet your right!
Quote from: ACL1504 on August 31, 2014, 01:35:41 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on August 30, 2014, 05:57:30 PM
This weekend I decided to tackle the projects of painting the lower bench work - Forest Green, and installing flooring in the train room. As of tonight, the painting is complete and I got a good start on the flooring. The way I feel right now from crawling on the floor all day - getting out of bed in the morning is going to be a challenge. I will post pictures when I get the flooring complete.
John,
I was thinking of asking my Congressman sponsor and pass a bill prohibiting us old geezers from crawling on the floor. But then I remembered I can't even count on him to be honest much less pass a Bill in Congress.
Tom ;D
Tom
I want to get this floor done and I don't think that getting my Congressman involved will help - he is to busy spending my Grandkid's money. It sure was easier to install floors 20 years ago.
Quote from: bparrish on August 31, 2014, 05:45:42 PM
OK............
I can solve this for you boys regarding getting down on the floor.......
Some years we had a rep from Idaho post a bill that would repeal gravity on the house floor........ Even the voters in Idaho noticed........ Bill Salli was a one term rep...........
see ya
Bob
Bob
A certain politician offered to repeal the laws of physics to help those of us in the Auto industry meet their gas mileage mandates and make electric cars make sense. The scary thing is he got reelected.
Update on the layout: Finished day two of the floor installation - as expected I was moving kinda slow this morning. I'm making progress but every piece from here on out has to be cut. I will post a few pictures later tonight.
Here are a few pictures of the layout room supporting it's fresh "Dark Forest Green" paint on the lower bench work. I'm real happy with the way it frames the layout. In the final picture the new floor is starting to go in.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-310814203322.jpeg)
The door way into the layout room.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-310814203239.jpeg)
The view as you turn the corner.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-310814203404.jpeg)
The view looking back.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-310814203154.jpeg)
The flooring project begins.
This is so cool. ! ! ! !
thanx
Bob
Quote from: bparrish on August 31, 2014, 09:23:30 PM
This is so cool. ! ! ! !
thanx
Bob
Thanks Bob
I got the floor about 90% complete and decided it's time for a fishing trip. I will take finish pictures once I have the moldings installed.
John,
The floor is really looking good. This past year I did the wood flooring in three bedrooms so I feel your pain. Great job!
Tom ;D
Looks great John! We installed similar flooring in the living area of our house last year. By "we" I mean my wife and I wrote out the check and had someone else do the work. :D
Thanks Tom and Bob
I will be glad when that job is complete - I usually like to get jobs like that done before I move on but I already had this fishing trip scheduled with my Uncle. I needed a break - after driving for 4 hours I wasn't sure I could get out of the Jeep.
Well two days in the boat was just what the doctor ordered - no fish but I got rid of all the soar muscles from the flooring job. I think I'll head back and finish that flooring job tomorrow. The weather is still like summer here so the fish are not coming up the river yet.
My wife is pizzed!!
She wan't to be in on the fishin' trip!!!!!
Quote from: gnatshop on September 04, 2014, 11:05:29 PM
My wife is pizzed!!
She wan't to be in on the fishin' trip!!!!!
David
She would love fishing for steelhead trout in the middle of the winter. We fish until the River freezes over. Most years we can fish all year - I have only seen three years in the past 45 that we couldn't fish all winter. Last year the river was frozen by Christmas because of global warming ;) .
The flooring is all installed - just a few moldings to put in tomorrow and some touch-painting and I'll be back on the Stone Roundhouse project. I will post a few pictures after the cleanup. The room sure looks different.
Quote from: S&S RR on September 07, 2014, 08:50:40 PM
Last year the river was frozen by Christmas because of global warming ;) .
Is that a back-asswards (err, normal) Al Gore quote??
Oops, was that a dis-allowed political comment? ??? ??? ???
To make amends, his wife was cute!
Wonder how she got the name, Tipper, though??
Far enough, I don't want to go any further (and neither do the admins)!!
Today a got back on the Stone Roundhouse project - started adding the trim, doors, and windows.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-100914184904.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-100914184701.jpeg)
Hi,
that´s looking fantastic.The rockwork is outstanding and also is the roundhouse.Great progress with the painted fascia and the flooring looks nice,too.....I was in the business of floor laying some time ago and have done it for more than 13 years.Still doing it from time to time for some of my customers....
keep up the nice progress,
Cheers,Chris
This is a fine looking structure John. Top notch stuff!
Dave HWCRR
Seattle
Quote from: Twist67 on September 10, 2014, 07:36:18 PM
Hi,
that´s looking fantastic.The rockwork is outstanding and also is the roundhouse.Great progress with the painted fascia and the flooring looks nice,too.....I was in the business of floor laying some time ago and have done it for more than 13 years.Still doing it from time to time for some of my customers....
keep up the nice progress,
Cheers,Chris
Chris
Thanks for the kind words. I could have used you putting in that floor. Thanks for following the thread.
Quote from: DACS on September 10, 2014, 07:49:33 PM
This is a fine looking structure John. Top notch stuff!
Dave HWCRR
Seattle
Thanks Dave - I can't wait to see it all trimmed out and weathered.
I continued to add windows and trim to the Stone Roundhouse today. Here is a progress picture.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-110914194258.jpeg)
Today I also built my version of the ReadingBob A&I tube. I went with the ball valve option and built it to fit in my paint booth. All I have to do to put the A&I back in the bottle is raise one end and open the valve.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-110914194355.jpeg)
Nice touch John. I have not build mine yet, but I like this idea.
Bill
Quote from: PennsyJ1 on September 12, 2014, 06:04:30 AM
Nice touch John. I have not build mine yet, but I like this idea.
Bill
Thanks Bill - I tried it with water to test it - I think it is going to be a good tool. Today I have some pine tree armatures that need a A&I bath so I will be giving it a real test. Thanks for the idea ReadingBob.
Here are a couple pictures of the layout room with the bench work painted and the floor installation complete. I'm adding switch covers while I wait for the glue to dry on the Stone Roundhouse project.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-120914141548.jpeg)
View through the train room door.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-120914141323.jpeg)
View as you turn the first corner.
Flooring looks good John, gives the room a real nice finished look.
I see that you have some large containers of rocks and dirt on the layout, is the dirt store bought or from the real source? If it is store bought, who's the manfacturer?
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-120914141148.jpeg)
Updated picture of the Stone Roundhouse - added more trim, windows and doors.
Quote from: GPdemayo on September 12, 2014, 02:48:53 PM
Flooring looks good John, gives the room a real nice finished look.
I see that you have some large containers of rocks and dirt on the layout, is the dirt store bought or from the real source? If it is store bought, who's the manfacturer?
Hi Greg
The containers you see are different colors and textures of dirt and stones collected all over the country. The main dirt I'm using is from Kentucky (just the right shade of brown) the rocks and stones for talus are from Colorado and Arizona. It is almost like a hobby within the hobby. I always have five gallon buckets with me when I travel.
The ballast that I'm using is from Woodland - I use the fine texture - 1 part black, 3 parts brown, 4 parts beige, and 4 parts grey. I matched the ballast along the Great Northern line in the Cascade a Mountains.
The aspen trees are SuperTrees from Scenic Express with their leaf flock. The main thing with trees I learned from Wayne Olson - use about 25 % of the flock you see in the pictures in the catalogs. It is amazing how much better the trees look. I have some of my earlier trees that I will be replacing because the have too much flocking.
I hope this answers your questions. Please let me know if you have more.
Sorry, for those that read my last post before I edited it. Sometimes spell checker helps too much. :-[
Darn John.....I was hoping you would give me a supplier name and not that you had used the real stuff so I could buy some. :'(
Here in Florida it's difficult to get anything but sand or blackish dirt and I have been looking for something between the lighter tans and real dark dirts. I have tried a few different suppliers, but haven't found anything I really like yet.
Thanks again.....looking forward to what you're going to do with the roundhouse scene.
Greg, you should look into sanded grout. They have them at Lowes and Home Depot. It is the Poly Brand type. They have tons of colors and the texture is about as close as you can get to real dirt. John, sorry to hijack your tread.
Quote from: coors2u on September 13, 2014, 10:47:16 AM
Greg, you should look into sanded grout. They have them at Lowes and Home Depot. It is the Poly Brand type. They have tons of colors and the texture is about as close as you can get to real dirt. John, sorry to hijack your tread.
Dustin
Discussion of techniques is what the forum is all about so please do not consider your comments in any way hijack the thread. My 2 cents on the use of grout is that it is great for roads, both dirt and paved, and for fine texture applications for dirt. Check out the roads over on Erieman's thread he used grout and they look great. I have a color sample of all the grouts sold at Home Depot and plan on using grout for my roads.
One more comment on the use of stones found in nature vs. those that you can buy from the sources I have found. The key to making it look right in my opinion is not just the color but the texture. The best example of that is using stones with rounded edges for talus in mountains. It just doesn't look right because the talus off the side of the mountain very sharp edged - just broke off due to the elements. Here in Michigan, it is very difficult to find talus like this because everything was rounded off by the glacier's that ran through here a few years back. On the other hand, the talus you find here in Michigan works real well for stones in a stream where the water rounded the edges of the stones over time.
Quote from: coors2u on September 13, 2014, 10:47:16 AM
Greg, you should look into sanded grout. They have them at Lowes and Home Depot. It is the Poly Brand type. They have tons of colors and the texture is about as close as you can get to real dirt. John, sorry to hijack your tread.
Thanks Dustin.....I'll check it out.
Quote from: PennsyJ1 on September 12, 2014, 06:04:30 AM
Nice touch John. I have not build mine yet, but I like this idea.
Bill
Bill,
When you build yours you may as well build two!
Tom ;D
Quote from: coors2u on September 13, 2014, 10:47:16 AM
Greg, you should look into sanded grout. They have them at Lowes and Home Depot. It is the Poly Brand type. They have tons of colors and the texture is about as close as you can get to real dirt. John, sorry to hijack your tread.
Dustin,
Fantastic tip on using sanded grout! I was in the Floor and Decor store last week and they had at least 30 different colors.
Thanks for sharing!
Tom ;D
I made so more progress on the Stone Roundhouse build today - only three more doors to install, started adding the smoke stacks, and added more trim. Here is a progress picture.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-130914184445.jpeg)
The smoke stacks will be vertical - I was still test fitting when I took this picture.
Quote from: S&S RR on September 13, 2014, 12:31:57 PM
One more comment on the use of stones found in nature vs. those that you can buy from the sources I have found. The key to making it look right in my opinion is not just the color but the texture. The best example of that is using stones with rounded edges for talus in mountains. It just doesn't look right because the talus off the side of the mountain very sharp edged - just broke off due to the elements. Here in Michigan, it is very difficult to find talus like this because everything was rounded off by the glacier's that ran through here a few years back. On the other hand, the talus you find here in Michigan works real well for stones in a stream where the water rounded the edges of the stones over time.
Mr. John, what part of Michigan are you located. I grew up in Walled Lake, moved to FL in the early 70's.
Bill
Quote from: PennsyJ1 on September 14, 2014, 06:18:32 AM
Quote from: S&S RR on September 13, 2014, 12:31:57 PM
One more comment on the use of stones found in nature vs. those that you can buy from the sources I have found. The key to making it look right in my opinion is not just the color but the texture. The best example of that is using stones with rounded edges for talus in mountains. It just doesn't look right because the talus off the side of the mountain very sharp edged - just broke off due to the elements. Here in Michigan, it is very difficult to find talus like this because everything was rounded off by the glacier's that ran through here a few years back. On the other hand, the talus you find here in Michigan works real well for stones in a stream where the water rounded the edges of the stones over time.
Mr. John, what part of Michigan are you located. I grew up in Walled Lake, moved to FL in the early 70's.
Bill
Hi Bill
I'm in Clarkston, Mi about 15-20 miles North of where you grew up.
I made some more progress on the Stone Roundhouse today - added the trim on the upper level and finished the trim on the front. As you can see in this picture, each of the stalls in the roundhouse is labeled with the name of someone I have found inspirational in the hobby.
The number one stall is named for a John Allen - reading the book, by Linn Westcott, on his life in model railroading got me in to the hobby many years ago.
Number two is for George Sellios - in addition to his constant inspiration and wonderful kits George also gave me the his leftover castings from his roundhouse as seed castings for this project.
Number three is for Bob VanGelder in addition to his inspiration and wonderful kits Bob designed the original Stone Roundhouse on the F&SM and then released it as a kit.
Number four is for Darrly Huffman who I met at a Narrow Gauge convention many years ago - he is responsible for me tearing up my original layout after seeing there was a whole different level of modeling out there. I learned a lot from Darrly's many DVD's.
Number five is for Karl Osolinski a great modeler and inspiration to take your modeling to the next level. I have spent many hours studying his build threads.
Number six is for Bob Brown who has provided us with his Narrow Gauge and Short Line Gazette the ultimate resource for modeling.
Number seven is for Brian Nolan a great modeler and inspiration that I had the pleasure of meeting through his clinics at the Narrow Gauge Conventions.
And Number eight is for Doug Foscale for his great kits, inspiration and lessons learned through his clinics.
I ran out of stalls on the Roundhouse before I ran out of names. ;D
I need to finish the smoke stakes on the front and then it will be time to turn the roundhouse around and add the trim and windows to the back. I can't wait to move this from my work bench to the layout and do the final weathering and detailing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-140914200746.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-140914200746.jpeg)
John,
Well, you picked some great names for the stalls. Pretty cool.
Tom ;D
Great work John.....it keeps getting better and better!
Quote from: ACL1504 on September 15, 2014, 08:22:09 AM
John,
Well, you picked some great names for the stalls. Pretty cool.
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom - They do have some name recognition in the hobby.
Quote from: GPdemayo on September 15, 2014, 08:38:11 AM
Great work John.....it keeps getting better and better!
Thanks Greg
John
Great building
Thanx
Bob
Now don't waste time reading replies here, keep going , we want to see more asap ;)
Quote from: bparrish on September 15, 2014, 10:07:09 AM
John
Great building
Thanx
Bob
Thanks Bob - I hope your trip is going well. I'm missing my steam engine build updates.
Quote from: Janbouli on September 15, 2014, 03:16:45 PM
Now don't waste time reading replies here, keep going , we want to see more asap ;)
Okay - but I needed to come in to my office and get some information for my next build. I'm currently designing the companion building to the Roundhouse which will be the S&S Locomotive Works located just across the mainline tracks. I needed some dimensions off the Roundhouse. Thanks for watching the thread ;)
John.
Stop holding your breath and turning blue.
I'll get home in mid October and get back at it. If I could have talked Viv into carrying mt lathe with me I would have. She didn't think it was funny.
I really anxious to get back to the winch gears.
See ya
Bob
I have a question for the forum. Does anyone have experience painting over Floquil paint with the new Acrylics? I just emptied my last bottle of Floquil Grimy Black paint on my Stone Roundhouse Roof. As you can see in the picture it is still drying. The whole time I was painting I thought I had one more bottle of Floquil for the second coat. As it turns out, I do not. The only Grimy black paint I have in stock is the MicroLux Acrylic that I bought for a test. I'm not real interested in testing on this roof :-\ . Does anyone have any experience?
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-160914151125.jpeg)
I am not sure I understand the question, but, I have painted over old floquil with acrylics and have had no chemical reaction issues. However, by brush, acrylics do not want to cover the old color in one coat. I cannot speak for airbrushing.
Also, it will be very difficult to get a match to what you have already done. It is a very good idea not to experiment with your finished roof.
I have found that Acrylic flats, do not seem to dry as flat as one expects.
These things are just my finding and my opinions.
Hope this helps.
The roundhouse is really looking mighty fine John!!
Dave HWCRR
Seattle
Quote from: DACS on September 17, 2014, 10:54:33 AM
I am not sure I understand the question, but, I have painted over old floquil with acrylics and have had no chemical reaction issues. However, by brush, acrylics do not want to cover the old color in one coat. I cannot speak for airbrushing.
Also, it will be very difficult to get a match to what you have already done. It is a very good idea not to experiment with your finished roof.
I have found that Acrylic flats, do not seem to dry as flat as one expects.
These things are just my finding and my opinions.
Hope this helps.
The roundhouse is really looking mighty fine John!!
Dave HWCRR
Seattle
Dave
Thanks for the input - I'm going to do a test today and I will post the results tomorrow. We are going to see how well the paints match.
Well today was the day for testing. First the Readingbob A&I tub got a workout making pine tree armatures. It worked well and I was able to get the A&I back in the storage bottle with no spills.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170914202759.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170914202759.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170914202843.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170914202843.jpeg)
The second test for the day was the acrylic grimy black paint over the floquil grimy black. The good news was no major problems with putting acrylic over solvent based paint. The bad news is that the color match wasn't even close. I also think the acrylic drys with more shine - it is not as flat as the floquil. Here are a couple pictures.
.(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170914202117.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170914202117.jpeg)
The first four and 1/4 rows have a second coat of the acrylic over the first coat of floquil grimy black.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170914202243.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170914202243.jpeg)
After seeing the color difference I decided to paint the entire roof surface with the acrylic paint so I will start with the same base coat. Tomorrow I will learn how to weather this new acrylic paint to get rid of the shine and get the look I'm after. My supply of Floquil paints will soon be gone so it's time to get back on the learning curve. You can bet that I will be checking paint supply before I use another bottle of the Floquil.
Since Reading Bob didn't get a stall on the Roundhouse of Fame, perhaps there's room for a plaque on the A&I trough.
;D
John
Quote from: Cuse on September 18, 2014, 06:50:54 AM
Since Reading Bob didn't get a stall on the Roundhouse of Fame, perhaps there's room for a plaque on the A&I trough.
;D
John
Great idea John. I think the names of many of the forum members will find their way onto structures as they start to go up around the layout.
Hey John,
I really prefer oils and like everyone else, need to find an alternate vendor. I came across True-Color Paint on the Internet, but haven't bought any as yet. Maybe someone else who has used them can give us some info about their quality, matches to Floquil, etc.
Below is their website.
http://www.trucolorpaint.com/index.php?p=1_22_Color-Chart
I have the "pdf" color sample files they sent me, they are in 4 files of about 6 megs total.
If you or anyone else wants them, send your e-mail address to me at demayoind@aol.com and I'll get them to you. Please include some info, like True-Paint, in the subject line so I won't think it's junk mail and delete it.
Quote from: GPdemayo on September 18, 2014, 09:23:38 AM
Hey John,
I really prefer oils and like everyone else, need to find an alternate vendor. I came across True-Color Paint on the Internet, but haven't bought any as yet. Maybe someone else who has used them can give us some info about their quality, matches to Floquil, etc.
Below is their website.
http://www.trucolorpaint.com/index.php?p=1_22_Color-Chart (http://www.trucolorpaint.com/index.php?p=1_22_Color-Chart)
I have the "pdf" color sample files they sent me, they are in 4 files of about 6 megs total.
If you or anyone else wants them, send your e-mail address to me at demayoind@aol.com and I'll get them to you. Please include some info, like True-Paint, in the subject line so I won't think it's junk mail and delete it.
Thanks Greg
I sent you a PM with my email address. I agree with you on the acrylic paint in this application - Way to shinny and the color didn't match floquil. It may just be the floquil underneath that is causing the problem, but I did find a great solution to the problem for my roundhouse roof. I will post pictures and a description of the process on this thread tonight. Thanks again for your help.
You could have problems matching even one run of Floquil against another (particularly 'new Floquil' after Testors took over, vs the old independent Floquil - don't forget they changed the solvent/medium, 'new' Dio-sol wasn't quite the same formulation due to cancer/toxicity concerns...) The Tru Color paints are nice, but they're pretty much airbrush-only. (Although I haven't tried brush painting the new flats.) Some of the shine issues are just a property of acrylic medium, that can be solved with the application of Dullcote or similar flat finish. Note a lot of oil paints also dry with a sheen. I guess I just plan to do a final matte coat no matter what kind of paint I'm using.
dave
Interesting that the Micro Lux paint appears shiny. Vallejo paints (MicroLux is a Vallejo blend for MicroMark) are very flat. I have some of the Tru Color grimy black I bought at the NG convention, but haven't used it yet.
Jeff
The MicroMark paints are thinned for airbrushing, I think they are the Model-Air formulation rather than the Vallejo brushable formation. I haven't specifically sprayed Vallejo ModelAir to see if it has the same level of shine as MicroMark paints, but it wouldn't surprise me that the medium used to make these air-brushable is the culprit for shine.
(For at least some paints, "flat" is produced by adding nano particles of something like talc. That's not a problem for brushing paints, but could cause airbrush clogs.)
dave
Quote from: deemery on September 18, 2014, 11:29:52 AM
You could have problems matching even one run of Floquil against another (particularly 'new Floquil' after Testors took over, vs the old independent Floquil - don't forget they changed the solvent/medium, 'new' Dio-sol wasn't quite the same formulation due to cancer/toxicity concerns...) The Tru Color paints are nice, but they're pretty much airbrush-only. (Although I haven't tried brush painting the new flats.) Some of the shine issues are just a property of acrylic medium, that can be solved with the application of Dullcote or similar flat finish. Note a lot of oil paints also dry with a sheen. I guess I just plan to do a final matte coat no matter what kind of paint I'm using.
dave
Dave
Thanks for the input - you bring up some very good points. I'm just switching back into the structure building phase of my layout after spending the last 5 years working with plaster and laying track - so I need to relearn many of the painting techniques I used in the past. I have a stash of floquil paints but they are all 5 or more years old and so far seem to be in good shape. I will burn through these and then it will be all acrylics. So I'm going to start experimenting with the new paints and switching over ASAP.
One last point, all the paints I used for the plaster mountains on my layout were craft style acrylic paints and they dried very flat.
Experiment one is to try the Microlux paint by itself and see if the shine was caused by the floquil paint I used as a first coat.
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on September 18, 2014, 11:30:35 AM
Interesting that the Micro Lux paint appears shiny. Vallejo paints (MicroLux is a Vallejo blend for MicroMark) are very flat. I have some of the Tru Color grimy black I bought at the NG convention, but haven't used it yet.
Jeff
Thanks for the input Jeff. I will be very interested to hear how the Tru Color paint works out for you. I will be doing lots of experimenting and will post anything I learn here.
So here is what I did to fix the roof on the Stone Roundhouse. I started with a Paynes grey extra dark PanPastel in an attempt to get rid of the shine. It worked great. Then I started dry brushing with a neutral grey PanPastel. I used a brush and just kept adding more until it looked the way I wanted it too. The same technique I would have used with chalks. Here are a few pictures of the process and a final close-up showing the final look. What do you think?
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-180914154410.jpeg)
Step one Paynes grey extra dark PanPastel
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-180914154448.jpeg)
Container labels for reference.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-180914154517.jpeg)
Picture showing the grimy black painted roof, the dark grey roof, and the finial neutral grey.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-180914154553.jpeg)
Final roof on upper area - lower roof is painted only with grimy black.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-180914154331.jpeg)
Close-up of the roof with the final brush of neutral grey PanPastel. The amount of shading and highlighting can be changed by brushing on more or brush off more in any given area. I'm going to let this sit for a couple of days and see if I continue to like the affect.
I think it looks great.
Jeff
The one suggestion I'd make is to go back and see if you can gently change the color/tone on some individual strips, so it doesn't look like each strip of roofing paper weathered identically.
This is a great application of Pan Pastels to achieve coloring/color blending, weathering and flattening. They're a lot of fun for this kind of project.
dave
Quote from: deemery on September 18, 2014, 04:35:05 PM
The one suggestion I'd make is to go back and see if you can gently change the color/tone on some individual strips, so it doesn't look like each strip of roofing paper weathered identically.
This is a great application of Pan Pastels to achieve coloring/color blending, weathering and flattening. They're a lot of fun for this kind of project.
dave
Thanks for the comments Dave and I agree. I'm going to take some pictures with the SLR before I move the Roundhouse to the layout. Looking at the pictures on my monitor vs. on my IPad the close-up really washed out the differences in color that I see with my eyes.
Any changes will be under the layout lights.
Quote from: S&S RR on September 18, 2014, 05:33:07 PM
[size=78%]Thanks for the comments Dave and I agree. I'm going to take some pictures with the SLR before I move the Roundhouse to the layout. Looking at the pictures on my monitor vs. on my IPad the close-up really washed out the differences in color that I see with my eyes.[/size]
Any changes will be under the layout lights.
I think it was John Allen who first highlighted the use of a camera as a modeling aid...
dave
Quote from: deemery on September 18, 2014, 05:45:13 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on September 18, 2014, 05:33:07 PM
[size=78%]Thanks for the comments Dave and I agree. I'm going to take some pictures with the SLR before I move the Roundhouse to the layout. Looking at the pictures on my monitor vs. on my IPad the close-up really washed out the differences in color that I see with my eyes.[/size]
Any changes will be under the layout lights.
I think it was John Allen who first highlighted the use of a camera as a modeling aid...
dave
Dave
I believe you are correct and I know it's one of my most important tools. I'm always amazed at how different pictures look with different cameras and different monitors. The retina display on my Ipad has become my standard - looks the closest to what I see with my own eyes. Look at the difference in the colors from the overall shot above to the close-up. Same camera just how the iphone camera was dealing with the white balance.
The work on the Stone Roundhouse for the S&S, that I wanted to complete on the workbench, was completed today. I took a few photographs on the workbench before the move.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190914152628.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190914152628.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190914152545.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190914152545.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190914152450.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190914152450.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190914152414.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190914152414.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190914152350.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190914152350.jpeg)
Just great. Just like the Aspens, those colorful doors and accents will "pop" against the stonework and rocks behind.
John
John
I'll say it again......
I sure hope you don't spoil this great engine house with diesels.
Great build
Thanx
Bob
John,
Fantastic work John and well worth the wait to see it finished.
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D I sure miss the other forum little icons so you have many thumbs up here.
Tom ;D
That is one good looking build!
John, Bob, Tom and Greg
Thanks for the kind words. This structure has been a long build. It is going to be great to get it on the layout. Today I cut the hole for the turntable. I have some scenery work to do behind the roundhouse site and then sometime next week I should be able to take a few photographs with it in place on the layout.
Bob the diesels get parked outside!
Like most model railroaders I'm already designing my next build which will be a companion building to the Roundhouse called the S&S Locomotive Works - with a fully detailed machine shop. This will be a scratch build before I dive in to that stack of kits that I have to build. Right now I plan on going in to a three or four week period of working on the track work again and see if I can get one of the upper levels operational.
Super John , the colors , the weathering , awesome building.
Quote from: Janbouli on September 20, 2014, 01:40:43 PM
Super John , the colors , the weathering , awesome building.
Thanks - I hope it looks good on the layout.
Update: Today I got the hole cut for the round table and installed it, added the ballast to the mainline that runs behind the Roundhouse, and decided to redo the trees behind the roundhouse. The trees I made in this area had way to much flock on them and don't look as good as the trees I'm making now, so it's more trees before we call in the crane to move the roundhouse to the layout.
Quote from: S&S RR on September 22, 2014, 09:56:59 PM
Update: Today I got the hole cut for the round table and installed it, added the ballast to the mainline that runs behind the Roundhouse, and decided to redo the trees behind the roundhouse. The trees I made in this area had way to much flock on them and don't look as good as the trees I'm making now, so it's more trees before we call in the crane to move the roundhouse to the layout.
Two Thoughts:
1.) The original Creator didn't worry that much about his flocking trees - he just let 'em grow
however they wanted!
2.) I hope that you're not using DeBlasi Crane Services to move the roundhouse!
I saw that video lately about using
cheap cables to move an engine!!
Quote from: gnatshop on September 22, 2014, 10:31:54 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on September 22, 2014, 09:56:59 PM
Update: Today I got the hole cut for the round table and installed it, added the ballast to the mainline that runs behind the Roundhouse, and decided to redo the trees behind the roundhouse. The trees I made in this area had way to much flock on them and don't look as good as the trees I'm making now, so it's more trees before we call in the crane to move the roundhouse to the layout.
Two Thoughts:
1.) The original Creator didn't worry that much about his flocking trees - he just let 'em grow
however they wanted!
2.) I hope that you're not using DeBlasi Crane Services to move the roundhouse!
I saw that video lately about using cheap cables to move an engine!!
You make a good point on number 1.
Number 2 will not be a problem - my crane service has 10 fingers and a sore back.
Don't even talk about Number 1 and Number 2 with that nice new floor! ;D
This is a beautiful example of craftsmanship on display. That's all I can find to describe your roundhouse.
Dave HWCRR
Seattle
Quote from: GPdemayo on September 23, 2014, 11:07:21 AM
Don't even talk about Number 1 and Number 2 with that nice new floor! ;D
The workbench that the Roundhouse is setting on has rubber wheels - all is well in S&S Land.
Quote from: DACS on September 23, 2014, 03:03:00 PM
This is a beautiful example of craftsmanship on display. That's all I can find to describe your roundhouse.
Dave HWCRR
Seattle
Thanks Dave.
Quote from: S&S RR on September 23, 2014, 04:32:58 PM
Quote from: GPdemayo on September 23, 2014, 11:07:21 AM
Don't even talk about Number 1 and Number 2 with that nice new floor! ;D
The workbench that the Roundhouse is setting on has rubber wheels - all is well in S&S Land.
Thank goodness..... :)
The S&S Stone Roundhouse as left the workbench!
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250914155552.jpeg)
The moving process:
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250914160347.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250914160420.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250914161035.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250914161134.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250914161214.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250914161304.jpeg)
IT FITS!
2 geometry questions:
1. What size turntable are you planning?
2. What's the distance from the center of the turntable to the roundhouse doors?
(Getting roundhouse/turntable geometry right can be a little tricky, particularly making sure that each door is equidistant from the turntable center.)
dave
Now for some final weathering and the details. It's all about the details. As you can see there is room for outside tracks.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250914162757.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250914162757.jpeg)
Quote from: deemery on September 25, 2014, 04:26:05 PM
2 geometry questions:
1. What size turntable are you planning?
2. What's the distance from the center of the turntable to the roundhouse doors?
(Getting roundhouse/turntable geometry right can be a little tricky, particularly making sure that each door is equidistant from the turntable center.)
dave
Hi Dave
It is all set-up for the Walthers 90 foot turntable number 933-2849. I designed everything to the template that came with the turntable. So we are about to see if the template is any good!
John,
Wow, that really looks great, no, fantastic!
Tom ;D
John, you've done a beautiful job and the start of a great scene. You must have a "Great" sense of accomplishment now that it has reached the layout. Raymo
Quote from: S&S RR on September 25, 2014, 04:28:31 PM
Now for some final weathering and the details. It's all about the details. As you can see there is room for outside tracks.
And you've got a great eye for the details!!! ;D ;D ;D
Congrats on a great build and addition to the S&S RR!!!!!!
Quote from: ACL1504 on September 25, 2014, 05:21:50 PM
John,
Wow, that really looks great, no, fantastic!
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom
Quote from: Raymo on September 25, 2014, 06:12:39 PM
John, you've done a beautiful job and the start of a great scene. You must have a "Great" sense of accomplishment now that it has reached the layout. Raymo
Raymo
Thanks for the kind works.
I sure feels good to finally have it on the layout.
Quote from: gnatshop on September 25, 2014, 06:48:57 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on September 25, 2014, 04:28:31 PM
Now for some final weathering and the details. It's all about the details. As you can see there is room for outside tracks.
And you've got a great eye for the details!!! ;D ;D ;D
Congrats on a great build and addition to the S&S RR!!!!!!
Thanks
David
John, that is going to be an outstanding scene, it looks great already.
8)
That is a seriously dramatic scene! The structure, the trees, the background, the lighting...beautiful!
:'(
John
John....
Great stuff.
Thanx
Bob
Very nicely done John..... 8)
Andy, John, Bob and Greg
Thanks for the kind works - seeing the Roundhouse on the layout has really motivated me to keep moving on the layout. Thanks for following the thread.
Hi there,
WOW......................that´s an awesome roundhouse.Fantastic build.
Cheers,Chris
Quote from: Twist67 on September 28, 2014, 11:19:34 AM
Hi there,
WOW......................that´s an awesome roundhouse.Fantastic build.
Cheers,Chris
Thanks for the kind words Chris and thanks for watching the thread.
John,
Very cool thread and great job on getting the roundhouse finished and in place! It looks fantastic in its new home.
Marty
Quote from: CVSNE on September 29, 2014, 09:19:54 AM
John,
Very cool thread and great job on getting the roundhouse finished and in place! It looks fantastic in its new home.
Marty
Hi Marty
Thanks for the kind words and for stopping by the thread - I'm having a lot of fun with this and enjoy sharing the progress pictures.
John, I LOVE that roundhouse.....
Quote from: jlgrove on September 29, 2014, 02:42:18 PM
John, I LOVE that roundhouse.....
Thanks Jeff - I can't wait to finish the scene with all the details.
Well, I can say this about that. Actually I could say more, but I do not want to be redundant. John, that is a very beautifully done structure. I have always had a fascination with engine (steam) service facilities. I can't wait to see the details you have planned.
Dave HWCRR
Seattle
Quote from: DACS on October 01, 2014, 07:32:12 AM
Well, I can say this about that. Actually I could say more, but I do not want to be redundant. John, that is a very beautifully done structure. I have always had a fascination with engine (steam) service facilities. I can't wait to see the details you have planned.
Dave HWCRR
Seattle
Thanks Dave - For the next few weeks I'll be working on getting trains running and there are a few projects that need to be completed before the areas get to hard to reach. Tonight I'm going to spend some time making pine trees of different sizes so I can do a test on getting the prospective right for tree size on the mountains. I have an area which will be all wooded that needs to be completed before I start the trestle builds.
Here is a picture of my workbench converted over to pine tree production. I'm building trees of many different sizes and shapes to do a test to get the prospective right with the trees on the mountains side.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-021014083901.jpeg)
I have spent the last couple of days making trees and getting ready for the next big push to plant them. Here is a picture of trees ready for planting. I have made pine trees and aspens of different heights and will be experimenting with forced perspective to try and get more depth in the scenes.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-041014213230.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-041014213230.jpeg)
There has been some discussion about using the bench work for storage over on the Atlantic and Southern thread and I thought I should post this picture of the Superior & Seattle after a full days work session. The no storage on the bench work rule seems to be working great ;) - full disclosure as they say.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-041014213334.jpeg)
John,
No matter what I want to do, during a work session it appears everything ends up on the workbench! I guess it's part of the hobby or the natuire of the beast.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on October 05, 2014, 08:11:22 AM
John,
No matter what I want to do, during a work session it appears everything ends up on the workbench! I guess it's part of the hobby or the natuire of the beast.
Tom ;D
I wounder what percentage of my time I spend looking for tools?
Those big pine trees are spectacular! Thumbs up!
John
Great looking trees. Got some spares ??? :P
Quote from: Chet on October 05, 2014, 11:49:11 AM
Great looking trees. Got some spares ??? :P
Chet
Thanks for the kind words - sorry no spares yet only about 3-4 thousand to go an I'll have enough for the layout. I'm almost to the 1000 aspen tree mark. Pine trees take a lot more time - I hope to hit the 100 mark with the latest run. I make them for three or four days and then move on to something else for a break.
Quote from: S&S RR on October 05, 2014, 09:17:40 AM
Quote from: ACL1504 on October 05, 2014, 08:11:22 AM
John,
No matter what I want to do, during a work session it appears everything ends up on the workbench! I guess it's part of the hobby or the natuire of the beast.
Tom ;D
I wounder what percentage of my time I spend looking for tools?
I've been looking for my short 12" level for the past several hours. Finally gave up and used the 4' level.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on October 05, 2014, 01:37:55 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on October 05, 2014, 09:17:40 AM
Quote from: ACL1504 on October 05, 2014, 08:11:22 AM
John,
No matter what I want to do, during a work session it appears everything ends up on the workbench! I guess it's part of the hobby or the natuire of the beast.
Tom ;D
I wounder what percentage of my time I spend looking for tools?
I've been looking for my short 12" level for the past several hours. Finally gave up and used the 4' level.
Tom ;D
Tom
I have a place for you to check. When I lost my level for a few weeks I found it stuck to the back of my metal tool box. It had magnets imbedded in the plastic. Who knew I always use it for wood.
John,
Hey, that reminds me that my magnetic level is still missing and it isn't on my tool box.
I did find the one I was looking for though. For some reason unknown to me, I found it by accident in one of my power tool tubs. ;D ;D ;D Of course, I wasn't looking for it - that's the reason I found it.
Tom ;D
I was going crazy looking for my two foot level. My wife had "borrowed" it to level the quilting machine. I told her to keep it upstairs and bought a new digital/laser one. :D
Jeff
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on October 06, 2014, 12:00:45 PM
I was going crazy looking for my two foot level. My wife had "borrowed" it to level the quilting machine. I told her to keep it upstairs and bought a new digital/laser one. :D
Jeff
If only I could blame my wife when I can't find a tool.....
dave
That sounds like a good reason to buy new toys. My wife "volunteered" me to install a new laminate floor in a friends house. I ended up with a new cordless drill and screw driver. Way to go !!!!!!! ;D
Isn't it amazing just how full a work bench can become? Just working along and suddenly, there's no room to build. It just slowly squeezes down until we are forced to put things away, just so we can start over with the clutter!
Dave HWCRR
Seattle
Fellow members of the can't find my tools club.
Thanks for stopping by the thread - I was practicing my can't find my tools with my fishing equipment for the past three days. The same thing happens to me on the boat. After a couple hours there is equipment laying everywhere. I'm going to get back to working on the layout tomorrow. If I can find my tools.
Quote from: S&S RR on October 09, 2014, 08:44:57 PM
Fellow members of the can't find my tools club.
Thanks for stopping by the thread - I was practicing my can't find my tools with my fishing equipment for the past three days. The same thing happens to me on the boat. After a couple hours there is equipment laying everywhere. I'm going to get back to working on the layout tomorrow. If I can find my tools.
Important question - how many fish were in the boat?
Keep your mind on the priorities!!! ;D ;D ;D
Quote from: gnatshop on October 09, 2014, 11:33:26 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on October 09, 2014, 08:44:57 PM
Fellow members of the can't find my tools club.
Thanks for stopping by the thread - I was practicing my can't find my tools with my fishing equipment for the past three days. The same thing happens to me on the boat. After a couple hours there is equipment laying everywhere. I'm going to get back to working on the layout tomorrow. If I can find my tools.
Important question - how many fish were in the boat?
Keep your mind on the priorities!!! ;D ;D ;D
Dave
The fish haven't started up the river yet in any numbers - we had three fish on but managed to loose all three of them. I had one scream 450 feet of line of my real before it pulled the hook. We are fishing for Steelhead Trout that run up the river from Lake Michigan when the weather starts getting cold.
I spent the day today making more pine trees. This week I purchased a Flex Shaft Machine from Micro_Mark to replace the second Dremel motor that I burned up. I haven't had much luck with Dremels and decided to try something different. I really like this machine and it cost less than a Dremel - I paid $80 for it. The collet will hold any of my Dremel tools and even the smallest drill bits. It is powered through a foot petal for speed control. I ran it for about 5 hours today and had no heat problems - in fact it didn't even get warm. Here are a few pictures.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-111014212118.jpeg)
The motor, flex shaft, and collet.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-111014212207.jpeg)
The collet at the end of the flex shaft.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-111014212257.jpeg)
The foot pedal.
John,
That is one wicked looking tool. So, of course I'll have to look into getting one for the Atlantic and Southern.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on October 12, 2014, 10:16:02 AM
John,
That is one wicked looking tool. So, of course I'll have to look into gettiong one for the Atlantic and Southern.
Tom ;D
It goes both ways Tom, I have been looking at the tools on your bench work too! ;D
Quote from: S&S RR on October 12, 2014, 02:17:52 PM
Quote from: ACL1504 on October 12, 2014, 10:16:02 AM
John,
That is one wicked looking tool. So, of course I'll have to look into gettiong one for the Atlantic and Southern.
Tom ;D
It goes both ways Tom, I have been looking at the tools on your bench work too! ;D
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Tom 8)
I have about 50 pine trees ready for planting. I want about 50 more out of this batch before I move on to track laying.
Good stuff here, nice job!
Quote from: LongHornCaddy on October 14, 2014, 09:03:24 PM
Good stuff here, nice job!
Thanks for the kind words and for stopping by the thread.
I just returned from a very special trip for my daughter's wedding - so after a great family time - I'm ready to get back working on the layout. My family was expanded by two - I got a son-in-law and a Grandson in the deal. My Grandson's first words to me a couple years ago when I meet him for the first time were "where are your trains". It doesn't get any better than that.
The next few days are going to be devoted to making more pine trees. While I was away I received Bob VanGelder's latest kit so the first order of business is to see what's in the box.
Hi,
great looking new tool,can´t wait to see some photos of the planted trees..... :)
Cheers,Chris
Quote from: Twist67 on October 21, 2014, 04:21:33 AM
Hi,
great looking new tool,can´t wait to see some photos of the planted trees..... :)
Cheers,Chris
Chris - thanks, I'm looking forward to planting the trees too. The rotary tool is working great so far.
I have been in pine tree mode now for two weeks and hit the 100 tree mark today. I have had very limited time for the layout during the month of October with weddings and fishing so this tree making project has been just the ticket for smaller amounts of continuous time. At this point, I have everything setup in production mode so I'm going to stick with this project for the next couple of weeks. I should be able to plant a small forest in a few weeks. ;D
All of the trees and scenery supplies have be staged within arms reach - it's time to crawl under the layout and start the scenery and track work in a new area.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-011114102352.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-011114102352.jpeg)
Now the fun begins. Scenery and trees - I can't wait to get back to that stage of my new build.
Tom ;D
Tom
It has been a long time coming! I'm really looking forward to getting back into structure building. The Roundhouse build was just to get me back into it after about 4 years of mixing and painting plaster.
While I had my back turned today a pair of eagles built a next in one of my trees.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-011114200210.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-011114200257.jpeg)
Watch out - when the eagles get close to finishin' the nest, they may come swoopin' down
for some of them short hairs for beddin'! ;D ;D ;D
Will that area be know as "Eagles Nest Curve"?
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on November 02, 2014, 07:43:22 AM
Will that area be know as "Eagles Nest Curve"?
Tom ;D
The eagles nest is overlooking the yard, so it will be "Eagles Nest Yard".
Very nice John..... 8)
Quote from: gnatshop on November 01, 2014, 09:04:52 PM
Watch out - when the eagles get close to finishin' the nest, they may come swoopin' down
for some of them short hairs for beddin'! ;D ;D ;D
David
They look like fighter jets coming at you - I see them every day on the river where I fish. Usually have one sitting in the tree above my boat waiting for me to catch a fish. I have to make sure any fish that I release are capable of going down deep fast before I release them.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.ebayimg.com%2F00%2Fs%2FNjU2WDQ2Mw%3D%3D%2Fz%2Fx%257EkAAOSwZkJUSRip%2F%24_12.JPG&hash=103815c6fbb7cc8ad114e11c92f4b9e85f47815f) (http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NjU2WDQ2Mw==/z/x%7EkAAOSwZkJUSRip/$_12.JPG)
Coming soon to the Superior & Seattle! Had to pay a little more than $16 dollars.
Looking really good, John!
I don't believe I have ever seen a build of the Wilfrid J. Brambell Co. kit. I'll look forward to that one. Nice touch with the eagles.
Cheers, Mark.
Wow, I paid a LOT more than that for mine years ago. I think the FSM prices peaked before the recession. Looking forward to your build of this wonderful kit.
Jeff
Quote from: mark dalrymple on November 02, 2014, 11:21:05 PM
Looking really good, John!
I don't believe I have ever seen a build of the Wilfrid J. Brambell Co. kit. I'll look forward to that one. Nice touch with the eagles.
Cheers, Mark.
Mark
I don't remember seeing a build of Wilfrid J. Brambell co either. We will have one here on the forum when I get to this build.
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on November 03, 2014, 07:25:13 AM
Wow, I paid a LOT more than that for mine years ago. I think the FSM prices peaked before the recession. Looking forward to your build of this wonderful kit.
Jeff
Jeff
I paid $456 for this one from Jimmy off ebay. The $16 comment was for Jaime who is always looking for $16 FSM kits. I'm just about to the structure building stage on the S&S RR and this was one of my planned purchases. I have been watching for this kit at shows and on ebay for more than 15 years and the price was at the low end of what I have seen. On ebay the kit has gone from a low of $407 to a high of $1100 (15 years of data). I think this is the first thing I've bought off from ebay in about 6 - 10 years - it was Jimmy's auction. The collectors will love me because I'm going to build this one. For a modeler it's the castings that you can't get anywhere else - it's the details. This build is going to be right up front on my layout.
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on November 03, 2014, 07:25:13 AM
Wow, I paid a LOT more than that for mine years ago. I think the FSM prices peaked before the recession. Looking forward to your build of this wonderful kit.
Jeff
Jeff
One more comment on the prices of FSM kits. Jimmy would know better - but on the 5 kits that I have been watching the prices have not gone down. I was very surprised that I won the auction. I only bid because it was Jimmy's auction and I know where he lives. ;D I have been watching the prices on the 5 kits on ebay only to know what a good deal was when I saw one at a show. The prices on FSM kits in general may have gone down since 2008.
We had a couple of older gents who got tables at a few Timonium shows and were selling their collection of unbuilt craftsman kits for fairly low prices - I think that's where this got started - but the "$16" figure is somewhat of an urban legend. I think the least expensive FSM kits these guys had were priced in the $30-$40 range.
Marty McGuirk
Quote from: S&S RR on November 03, 2014, 09:43:03 AM
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on November 03, 2014, 07:25:13 AM
Wow, I paid a LOT more than that for mine years ago. I think the FSM prices peaked before the recession. Looking forward to your build of this wonderful kit.
Jeff
Jeff
I paid $456 for this one from Jimmy off ebay. The $16 comment was for Jaime who is always looking for $16 FSM kits. I'm just about to the structure building stage on the S&S RR and this was one of my planned purchases. I have been watching for this kit at shows and on ebay for more than 15 years and the price was at the low end of what I have seen. On ebay the kit has gone from a low of $407 to a high of $1100 (15 years of data). I think this is the first thing I've bought off from ebay in about 6 - 10 years - it was Jimmy's auction. The collectors will love me because I'm going to build this one. For a modeler it's the castings that you can't get anywhere else - it's the details. This build is going to be right up front on my layout.
I know it wasn't $16, I'd been watching the auction as well to see what it went for. I can't remember exactly when I bought it, but I believe it was when the prices had peaked in the early 2000s. I paid over $800 for it. I also intend to build it. Someday. After the other hundred or so kits are finished. ;D
Jeff
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on November 03, 2014, 12:21:53 PM
I know it wasn't $16, I'd been watching the auction as well to see what it went for. I can't remember exactly when I bought it, but I believe it was when the prices had peaked in the early 2000s. I paid over $800 for it. I also intend to build it. Someday. After the other hundred or so kits are finished. ;D
Jeff
I understand about the 100 kits - I have no idea how many I have on the shelf.
Quote from: S&S RR on November 03, 2014, 03:33:58 PM
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on November 03, 2014, 12:21:53 PM
I know it wasn't $16, I'd been watching the auction as well to see what it went for. I can't remember exactly when I bought it, but I believe it was when the prices had peaked in the early 2000s. I paid over $800 for it. I also intend to build it. Someday. After the other hundred or so kits are finished. ;D
Jeff
I understand about the 100 kits - I have no idea how many I have on the shelf.
I don't have "Want to Know" for the kit count on my 4 shelf units.
dave
Quote from: deemery on November 03, 2014, 05:14:59 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on November 03, 2014, 03:33:58 PM
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on November 03, 2014, 12:21:53 PM
I know it wasn't $16, I'd been watching the auction as well to see what it went for. I can't remember exactly when I bought it, but I believe it was when the prices had peaked in the early 2000s. I paid over $800 for it. I also intend to build it. Someday. After the other hundred or so kits are finished. ;D
Jeff
I understand about the 100 kits - I have no idea how many I have on the shelf.
I don't have "Want to Know" for the kit count on my 4 shelf units.
dave
Dave
It's okay we all have the same issue ;) . I think most retirees are worrying about running out of money - model railroaders are worrying about running out of kits to build. This issue started for me 25 years before I retired.
John.....e-mail me your telephone number, I have an idea I have been kicking around, which ties into this recent discussion, that I want to run by you.
demayoind@aol.com
For me, to many kits and not enough time. ;D ;D
Tom ;D
Quote from: GPdemayo on November 04, 2014, 09:10:36 AM
John.....e-mail me your telephone number, I have an idea I have been kicking around, which ties into this recent discussion, that I want to run by you. demayoind@aol.com
Oh, crap - when li'l Gregory starts kickin' ideas around, watch out for a grandiose scheme!!
He's probly wants to organize a mass sale of craftsman kits for $14.95, and makin' up the difference
in volume!! ;D ;D ;D
No matter, I'll be sittin' on the buyers list!
Quote from: GPdemayo on November 04, 2014, 09:10:36 AM
John.....e-mail me your telephone number, I have an idea I have been kicking around, which ties into this recent discussion, that I want to run by you.
demayoind@aol.com
Greg
It was real nice talking with you this afternoon - looking forward to the implementation of your new idea.
Quote from: ACL1504 on November 04, 2014, 09:38:05 AM
For me, to many kits and not enough time. ;D ;D
Tom ;D
Tom
This sounds like the definition of model railroading - always time and or space constrained.
Quote from: gnatshop on November 04, 2014, 07:03:51 PM
Quote from: GPdemayo on November 04, 2014, 09:10:36 AM
John.....e-mail me your telephone number, I have an idea I have been kicking around, which ties into this recent discussion, that I want to run by you. demayoind@aol.com
Oh, crap - when li'l Gregory starts kickin' ideas around, watch out for a grandiose scheme!!
He's probly wants to organize a mass sale of craftsman kits for $14.95, and makin' up the difference
in volume!! ;D ;D ;D
No matter, I'll be sittin' on the buyers list!
David
Keep an eye on Gregory - he has a real good idea he's working on.
Well today we spent a full day working on the layout. Wayne Olson was over and we spent part of the day doing ballast and then the afternoon was spent planting trees in a new area. This area is going to be the home of a logging operation so the trees we were planting today are going to be the start of a large forested area with a logging operation just moving into the area. Here is a picture of the area at the start of the day. The pink foam is in place to get an idea of how I wanted to change the area to make room for a larger forest area.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-071114211811.jpeg)
In this picture I have added the ground cover - I used Scenic Express - Conifer Floor blend - I'm very happy with the way it looks. I added a 5 gallon bucket of the stuff to my order list if that tells you what I think of it. I also made some track work changes while I was in the area.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-071114164156.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-071114164156.jpeg)
And finally for tonight, here are a few shots showing the progress we made.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-071114213044.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-071114213013.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-071114213128.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-071114213158.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-071114213345.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-071114213427.jpeg)
The process we are using is a lot like hanging a picture for the boss. I spent the day on the mountain side and Wayne was my eyes on the ground telling me where to place the tree. Here are a couple pictures of me reversing the process and letting Wayne plant a tree.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-071114213500.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-071114211929.jpeg)
A little more to the left Wayne. No your other left. We are having fun now!
I will get the SLR out when we get this mountain finished. My Iphone does not like the florescent lights and doesn't get the colors just right to my eye.
The Ledbetters like them woods, but they're still not tellin' where their still is hid
in there!! 8) 8) 8)
John,
The trees and ground cover really bring it all together. Looking most excellent my friend, very well done indeed.
Tom ;D
Quote from: gnatshop on November 07, 2014, 10:24:26 PM
The Ledbetters like them woods, but they're still not tellin' where their still is hid
in there!! 8) 8) 8)
We will keep that bit of information between us.
Quote from: ACL1504 on November 08, 2014, 07:45:52 AM
John,
The trees and ground cover really bring it all together. Looking most excellent my friend, very well done indeed.
Tom ;D
Tom
Thanks for the kind words - I'm real happy with the way the scenery is turning out - as you know there is a long time between bench work and trees on the mountain.
John, I like your layout, each time I see pictures of it, I'm always impressed by your rock work.
Eric QUébec
Quote from: EricQuebec on November 08, 2014, 01:26:15 PM
John, I like your layout, each time I see pictures of it, I'm always impressed by your rock work.
Eric QUébec
Eric
Thanks - it's starting to come together.
Great scenery John , the only thing that comes to mind , is what you could have done in N-scale with that kind of scenery. ;)
Quote from: Janbouli on November 09, 2014, 04:37:08 AM
Great scenery John , the only thing that comes to mind , is what you could have done in N-scale with that kind of scenery. ;)
Janbouli
Thanks for the kind words - I have nothing against N scale, but I love the details. I had perfect vision - in fact the doctor use to tell me I had top 1% percentile vision when I was in my 30's and 40's - then the 50's came along. I have reached the age where seeing the detail in N scale is a struggle. I will never change from HO and HOn3 but if I did it would probably be to O scale because of my eye sight. If I could only spend the time I use trying to find my glasses - working on the layout. ;D
Today I started to build the gluing fixture for the large trestle bents. I have 7 tall trestles to build so this fixture will get a lot of use.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-101114192320.jpeg)
The trestle bent fixture has been completed, we are now ready for trestle production.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-111114114042.jpeg)
Trestle production has begun.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-171114190039.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-171114190039.jpeg)
The first bent ready for staining.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-171114182343.jpeg)
John,
My 'puter easily opened the drawing. Odds are good that if Gnat and I can open and view it, anyone can! ;D ;D ;D
Hey, L'il Johny, what is all that flea crap at the bottom of the trestle bent? ;D ;D ;D ;D
Quote from: gnatshop on November 17, 2014, 10:23:54 PM
Hey, L'il Johny, what is all that flea crap at the bottom of the trestle bent? ;D ;D ;D ;D
Good eyes! That's left over ground foam from the pine trees I just got through making. I'm cheap and didn't change the paper on the workbench. That building paper is expensive. A roll only lasts about 10 years.
Quote from: jerryrbeach on November 17, 2014, 09:36:07 PM
John,
My 'puter easily opened the drawing. Odds are good that if Gnat and I can open and view it, anyone can! ;D ;D ;D
Jerry
The computer issue I was having was with internet bandwidth - I was up at my hunting and fishing cabin in Northern Michigan and it takes about an hour to post a picture the internet is so bad. The weather drove me back home so now I have fast internet and a layout to work on ;D . Thanks for stopping by the thread.
John,
Nice start on the trestle bents. I'm curious as to how you will paint/stain them. If you have any glue joints with a little glue overlap it won't take any stain and may restrict the flow of paint.
Inquiring minds and all that.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on November 18, 2014, 06:09:40 PM
John,
Nice start on the trestle bents. I'm curious as to how you will paint/stain them. If you have any glue joints with a little glue overlap it won't take any stain and may restrict the flow of paint.
Inquiring minds and all that.
Tom ;D
Tom
My paint / stain expert at my local hardware store assured me that he had a stain that would work over Elmer's glue and it's water base. I said - if it works - it will save lot's of time with the pre-staining of the strip wood and the touch up after the build process. So you are correct, inquiring minds do want to know and I'm going to try it on this first bent. I will have results tomorrow so stay tuned! You will also notice that I left the bar code on one of the pieces to see if I can stain over that too. I was wondering if anyone would notice I glued it together without staining it first.
John,
I was curious as I said. I noticed right away the lack of stain and was wondering if anyone else would mention it. So, I thought what the heck I'll ask!
If you've found a stain that will cover it all then we all of course want the name of the liquid gold!
Tom ;D
Bar codes on stripwood are -really really annoying-!
dave
Quote from: deemery on November 18, 2014, 06:55:22 PM
Bar codes on stripwood are -really really annoying-!
dave
Dave
I invested in a small table saw and will be starting to cut my own strip wood. The bar codes and potential savings drove me to buy it. If my math is correct I should pay for the saw on this trestle project alone.
Quote from: ACL1504 on November 18, 2014, 06:54:39 PM
John,
I was curious as I said. I noticed right away the lack of stain and was wondering if anyone else would mention it. So, I thought what the heck I'll ask!
If you've found a stain that will cover it all then we all of course want the name of the liquid gold!
Tom ;D
I will give a full report - I didn't mention it because I think it's too good to be true. We will know tomorrow.
Quote from: ACL1504 on November 18, 2014, 06:09:40 PM
John,
Nice start on the trestle bents. I'm curious as to how you will paint/stain them. If you have any glue joints with a little glue overlap it won't take any stain and may restrict the flow of paint.
Inquiring minds and all that. Tom
That L'il Tommy don't miss nuthin' - probly because the Babe chastised him about missin' or thin spots in the house
paintin'!!! ;D ;D ;D ;D
Oh, by the way - the trestle bents look fantastic!!!
So the stain test has begun. Here is the product I'm using - my local hardware store mixed it to my color - I'm trying to get the look of a 1940's layout with fresh creosote.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-191114144615.jpeg)
Here is a picture of the first bent after it dried. It looks like the glue covered but is shinny. It turns out that a wipe down with a rag left excess stain which did not soak in as I thought it wood at the joints. It looks like a lot of glue that is covered up but it's only a shinny area from excess stain.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-191114144704.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-191114144704.jpeg)
So I revised the process and wiped the entire bent with a rag and then took a dry brush and wiped down the joints. Here is a picture after that process. What do you think?
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-191114144515.jpeg)
The next step will be a A&I bath. I'm very interested in your feedback.
John,
Minwax is an excellent stain and I'm not surprised that it covered. The shiny spots on the joints can be handled with Dull Coat. However, it appears the second coat being wiped on took care of everything. At least I do't see any shiny spots on the bent after the wipe down.
And, I believe creosote is a bit darker than what you are showing but it may be the camera and the auto adjust on the color. If the Minwax color doesn't work out, try Hunter Line Creosote Black A&I. I have some and it is very dark like creosote. They will be at the next EXPO.
www.hunterline.com (http://www.hunterline.com)
Looking good my friend.
Tom ;D
Much better with the wipe down.....looking good. 8)
Lumber used for trestles was mostly treated with creosote, which is almost black when new and weathers out toward light gray after a number years. The look will be dictated by the amount of time you decide that the trestle has been in service.
Quote from: GPdemayo on November 19, 2014, 03:19:29 PM
Much better with the wipe down.....looking good. 8)
Lumber used for trestles was mostly treated with creosote, which is almost black when new and weathers out toward light gray after a number years. The look will be dictated by the amount of time you decide that the trestle has been in service.
The color darkens quite a bit with the A&I so I'm pretty happy with it. Most of the trestles that I have photographed have a dark brown appearance and that is what I have also seen other modelers use. The stain is covering any glue issues and the bar codes so it looks like I have the process.
You're doin' good followin' the Ledbetter's main rule:
If there is a problem, "Cover It Up!!"
As we say around here - You Done Good on the trestle bents!
And not even any flea crap on the finished job!!! ;D ;D ;D
Here is a photograph of the first two trestle bents after the A&I step. I'm using the 3 table spoon to a pint formula here.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-191114203842.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-191114203842.jpeg)
Wowzzerrs! That trestle looks close to the ceiling - do you have oxygen masks for the crew members??
The A&I finished them off great! ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Looks good, John. I'm surprised it covered the glue spots.
Jeff
Very nice John! Thanks for sharing your stain experiment with us. :D
Another technique to add to the toolbox.
dave
Dave, Jeff, Bob, Tom, Greg, and Dave
Thanks for stopping by the thread and for the input. As you can see from the picture, I stuck the stained bents in a piece of foam next to the scenery. I'm happy with the staining process but right now I'm leaning toward the bents look too new. It looks like the trestle was just built. I'm going to make a bent up with the old fashion A&I at about 3 of 4 table spoons of ink and see if I like the older look better before I go into full production mode. I'll post some pictures and let you know what I decide.
One final point on the stain - I painted a piece of basswood with glue - let it dry and then stained it - it covered with the dark brown stain, but you had to let the stain dry before doing much wiping. The process needs to be tested with a lighter stain.
I had lots of time sitting in the woods the last week looking for a deer through all the snow - I have a design in my head for the machine shop that goes next to the Roundhouse. Stay tuned on this project - I plan on starting it in a couple weeks. Now for more trees.
My trestle coloring experimentation continues - I mixed up a batch of A&I with 4 table spoons of black Ink and 2 table spoons of brown ink in a quart of alcohol. The process will be to stain the wood before gluing but to test the color mixture I stained a bent I had already glued using a brush. I like this color better and have decided to go with this process for the bulk of my trestles. I'm going to have one trestle that will be a new structure to use the first bents that I stained with the commercial stain. Here is a picture showing the A&I stained bent next to the two commercial stained bents to show the difference in color.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-211114181400.jpeg)
John,
They both look good to me. I think the key here is to not mix the different colors on the same trestle so it appears the trestle was built at the same time.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on November 22, 2014, 07:31:36 AM
John,
They both look good to me. I think the key here is to not mix the different colors on the same trestle so it appears the trestle was built at the same time.
Tom ;D
Tom
Thanks - I will have one trestle that is new and use the first pair on that trestle. Then I'm switching to the A&I process for the rest. I will probably change the formula a little on some of them just to get a different look. There are seven trestles to build for this section of the layout - one is four foot long. That makes for lots of trestle bents to build. I may change the bent design on a few of the latter ones for more variety.
Hi,
those bents a re looking great in both ways....and a lot of bents to build....
Keep the great work going.
Cheers,Chris
Quote from: Twist67 on November 23, 2014, 10:00:58 AM
Hi,
those bents a re looking great in both ways....and a lot of bents to build....
Keep the great work going.
Cheers,Chris
Chris
Thanks - and yes I do have a lot of bents to build. I started cutting the strip wood yesterday.
I just ordered more basswood for the trestles - I would have never guested that the best price for bulk basswood was Dick Blick. I did a google search on basswood and did some price comparisons.
The pink foam is disappearing into the mountain. Next step is the ground foam and then lots more trees.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-291114220223.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-291114113250.jpeg)
John, that looks fantastic!
John
Neatooooo 8)
Quote from: Cuse on November 30, 2014, 07:37:09 AM
John, that looks fantastic!
John
Thanks John - It's getting there. Should have trees planted by the end of the week.
Quote from: GPdemayo on November 30, 2014, 08:57:12 AM
Neatooooo 8)
Greg
Thanks - I can't wait to see a train crossing the trestle (it will be about 4 feet long and 16 inches high) with this mountain in the background.
Quote from: S&S RR on December 02, 2014, 09:57:15 PM
Quote from: GPdemayo on November 30, 2014, 08:57:12 AM
Neatooooo 8)
Greg
Thanks - I can't wait to see a train crossing the trestle (it will be about 4 feet long and 16 inches high) with this mountain in the background.
John,
That should be one great looking scene! Looking forward to it!
Tom ;D
Quote from: S&S RR on December 02, 2014, 09:57:15 PM
Quote from: GPdemayo on November 30, 2014, 08:57:12 AM
Neatooooo 8)
Greg
Thanks - I can't wait to see a train crossing the trestle (it will be about 4 feet long and 16 inches high) with this mountain in the background.
Wow.....what a great place for photo ops and videos of trains running. 8)
Quote from: GPdemayo on December 03, 2014, 08:16:14 AM
Wow.....what a great place for photo ops and videos of trains running. 8)
Greg, ain't it about time for you to take a vacation and go up there to help plant trees in
the frozen ground?? ;D ;D ;D ;D
A change in scenery from Floridy would present a different world - and don't go fishin'
with John - he'll make you stick your hand in that
cold water!!
Quote from: gnatshop on December 03, 2014, 10:10:00 PM
Quote from: GPdemayo on December 03, 2014, 08:16:14 AM
Wow.....what a great place for photo ops and videos of trains running. 8)
Greg, ain't it about time for you to take a vacation and go up there to help plant trees in
the frozen ground?? ;D ;D ;D ;D
A change in scenery from Floridy would present a different world - and don't go fishin'
with John - he'll make you stick your hand in that cold water!!
Gnat, it's past time for a visit, Pegi and I haven't been out to the Rockies in 5 years. I really miss the fun winter trips and the snow activities.
I wish those idiots in D.C. would quit screwing up and leave the economy alone so things could start to pick up so we could get back to traveling again! >:( >:( >:(
David and Greg
I love the mountains, as you can see from the pictures of the layout. I get out to the rockies as often as possible.
wow, more then impressive, can't wait to see the finished scene.
Quote from: clevermod01 on December 04, 2014, 11:13:03 AM
wow, more then impressive, can't wait to see the finished scene.
Thom
Thanks - me too! I'm working on it today.
Today I made another change on the S&S that is really going to help with operations and also make the mountain area I have been working on much better. First, this mountain area has been named it is now Mt. Aiden after my Grandson. The trestle we have been discussing is now going to be 7 feet long instead of the original 4 feet.
First step in this process was to get the mountain slope ready for the 100 trees I have all ready to be planted.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-041214193152.jpeg)
Then I removed the temporary trestle (plywood benchwork) in preparation for the actual trestle that is under construction.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-041214193300.jpeg)
I then called in the survey team and went to work with my laser level - then some mountain was removed - and finally the trestle was extended 3 feet. This change helps by increasing the radius for the trestle to 40 inches, keeps the train where you can see it no tunnel needed, makes more room for structures, and improves the "WOW factor" for the trestle. Here are a few pictures from today's activities.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-041214193403.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-041214193403.jpeg)
I'm also playing with some natural stones for the scenery - just playing at this point.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-041214193455.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-041214193455.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-041214193652.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-041214193652.jpeg)
When those sheer rocks were barren, I was a little wary...they were awesome, but not of this planet. Now, with the rubble, ground cover and trees they're really magnificent. You've captured the majesty of those steep slopes in your home. You obviously had a vision and got there layer by layer.
REALLY GREAT!!!
John
Quote from: Cuse on December 04, 2014, 08:32:49 PM
When those sheer rocks were barren, I was a little wary...they were awesome, but not of this planet. Now, with the rubble, ground cover and trees they're really magnificent. You've captured the majesty of those steep slopes in your home. You obviously had a vision and got there layer by layer.
REALLY GREAT!!!
John
Thanks for the kind works John. It is all about the details and layers. I'm working my way from the backdrop to the foreground adding the layers in this area - so far I'm happy with the way it is turning out. Another day another layer ;D . I spent three hours cutting strip wood for the trestle this afternoon.
Cuse, don't give that Siekirk feller too much credit!!
It was Engineer Aiden that insisted that the train be high up in the air on a spindley trestle!
Engineer Aiden is fearless!!!!! ;D ;D ;D ;D
Quote from: gnatshop on December 05, 2014, 07:46:24 PM
Cuse, don't give that Siekirk feller too much credit!!
It was Engineer Aiden that insisted that the train be high up in the air on a spindley trestle!
Engineer Aiden is fearless!!!!! ;D ;D ;D ;D
David
You got that right! And how do you make the locomotives go faster!
As always, I'm speechless.... John, You have make a new high standard in rock works.
Eric QUébec city
Eric
Thanks for the kind words - I'm real excited about the trestle I'm building. Depending on camera angle there will someday be five different mountain ranges that I can use as a backdrop for a locomotive photo shoot. Thanks for stopping by the thread.
BEAUTIFUL, just BEAUTIFUL....the realism of the rockfall is just perfect......
John,
IMO, your wonderful talus slope raises your rockwork from good to amazing exceptional!!! It looks so real I can almost hear the rocks breaking off and sliding down the slope!
Quote from: jlgrove on December 06, 2014, 07:30:30 PM
BEAUTIFUL, just BEAUTIFUL....the realism of the rockfall is just perfect......
Thanks Jeff - I'm real happy with the way the natural rock talus is blending with the painted plaster rocks. I think the Jeep is going to be hauling lots of rocks home this next year. I know just what colors I'm looking for now. Actually carry a couple samples with me on my road trips.
Quote from: jerryrbeach on December 06, 2014, 07:38:01 PM
John,
IMO, your wonderful talus slope raises your rockwork from good to amazing exceptional!!! It looks so real I can almost hear the rocks breaking off and sliding down the slope!
Thanks for the kind words Jerry - that's what we are trying to achieve. I need to be able to hear the steam engine whistle echo through the mountains next!
The last couple days I have spent most of my time getting ready to build the trestle that goes in front of Mt. Aiden - I have been cutting my own strip wood so I'm really starting from scratch on this project.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-061214212848.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-061214212848.jpeg)
So far I'm real happy with the new table saw with digital readout. I'm checking the readout with a micrometer and so far it's within a 0.001.
The next step for the strip wood is the A&I bath. I'm using a formula of 4 tablespoons black and 2 tablespoons brown Ink to a pint of alcohol. It looks dark when it's wet , but I like the color when it drys. I love the way Reading Bob's bath tube invention works - another great forum tip.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-061214212920.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-061214212920.jpeg)
Caution: On the alcohol bath tube - if you add a valve to yours make sure it is closed when you pour the alcohol & Ink in. Or don't and you will have a weathered shoe to wear in your train room.
The other part of this project that accomplished today was the mold for the concrete bent footings. I started with a small casting that was just the right dimensions from one of my FSM kits and made a wood model of it about 18 inches long. I cut the wood model into four sections so I can make four foundations in one pour. Here are a few pictures that show the process.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-061214213140.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-061214213140.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-061214213020.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-061214213020.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-061214212950.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-061214212950.jpeg)
I used the new express rubber from Micro Mart without issue. I let my molds cure overnight and I didn't have any issues with it setting up before I got it in the mold box.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-061214211626.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-061214211626.jpeg)
Notice the screw I added to the wood model to help pull it from the mold without tearing it.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-061214211537.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-061214211537.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-061214211454.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-061214211454.jpeg)
Tomorrow's project is going to be to add the foam land forms to the back side of Mt. Aiden. I'm starting with a foam base and will use the same process that I used on the front. Monday is tree planting day.
Here is the picture of everything put within reach so I don't have to crawl in and out of there too many times. It is like plumbing and running back and forth to the hardware store, you always forget something.
I'm also doing some track work in this area while I'm there.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-061214212739.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-061214212739.jpeg)
I'm using my iPhone to take the pictures today - they automatically download to my Mac and in Aperture all I have to do is select the picture and press shift, command E and the picture goes shooting into a folder all ready sized to fit on the forum. No plugging in a camera, going to photo shop to crop and make changes, then sizing it in Picasa. It just works! I trained myself on the new software in 3 days. I highly recommend it, if you are considering a new computer system.
Quote from: S&S RR on December 06, 2014, 10:25:21 PM
I'm using my iPhone to take the pictures today - they automatically download to my Mac and in Aperture all I have to do is select the picture and press shift, command E and the picture goes shooting into a folder all ready sized to fit on the forum. No plugging in a camera, going to photo shop to crop and make changes, then sizing it in Picasa. It just works! I trained myself on the new software in 3 days. I highly recommend it, if you are considering a new computer system.
For those of you who are "computationally challenged ;D and work with photographs on Windows, Adobe Lightroom is a very similar product. Apple has announced a replacement for Aperture, and there's a lot of concern that the new product won't have all the features for organizing and manipulating photos that Aperture provides. Also, I can recommend this site and its books for how to use Lightroom and how to think about organizing large groups of photos. http://www.thedambook.com
dave
Quote from: deemery on December 07, 2014, 11:56:40 AM
Quote from: S&S RR on December 06, 2014, 10:25:21 PM
I'm using my iPhone to take the pictures today - they automatically download to my Mac and in Aperture all I have to do is select the picture and press shift, command E and the picture goes shooting into a folder all ready sized to fit on the forum. No plugging in a camera, going to photo shop to crop and make changes, then sizing it in Picasa. It just works! I trained myself on the new software in 3 days. I highly recommend it, if you are considering a new computer system.
For those of you who are "computationally challenged ;D and work with photographs on Windows, Adobe Lightroom is a very similar product. Apple has announced a replacement for Aperture, and there's a lot of concern that the new product won't have all the features for organizing and manipulating photos that Aperture provides. Also, I can recommend this site and its books for how to use Lightroom and how to think about organizing large groups of photos. http://www.thedambook.com (http://www.thedambook.com)
dave
Dave
Thanks for pointing folks to the Lightroom help.
I made some progress with the foam land forms on the back side of the mountain today. Looks kinda flat right now - this is just the base layer with a small start on the contouring. I'm using up some old scenery supplies I bought when one of our LHS went out of business, as filler material. This area will be all trees when I'm done. The temporary trestle has been removed so I can work in the area and will be replaced with the trestle when this area is complete. I also installed some temporary bench work so I can crawl on top of the track work without damaging it.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-071214201405.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-071214201405.jpeg)
I continued to add more layers to this area today. The dead wood was added along with accent colors and 40 more trees. It is getting there. I will add more trees tomorrow.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-081214213540.jpeg)
I nominate the S&S for "World's Heaviest Layout" ;D
Lotsa rocks...really beautiful work.
John
Really coming on a treat, John!
Oh - and how long are you keeping your stripwood in the tube bath?
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: Cuse on December 09, 2014, 06:37:15 AM
I nominate the S&S for "World's Heaviest Layout" ;D
Lotsa rocks...really beautiful work.
John
John
Thanks for the nomination - it may just win that award.
Quote from: mark dalrymple on December 09, 2014, 12:57:22 PM
Really coming on a treat, John!
Oh - and how long are you keeping your stripwood in the tube bath?
Cheers, Mark.
Mark
I have a very highly controlled process - about 2 minutes or the time it takes to fish them out with the tweezers and put them on the paper. Then it's on to the next size. I actually like it when the color changes a little - makes it more realistic because every piece of wood on a prototype trestle took the treatment a little different and the sun and weather affected it a little different.
Quote from: S&S RR on December 09, 2014, 02:31:41 PM
Quote from: mark dalrymple on December 09, 2014, 12:57:22 PM
Really coming on a treat, John!
Oh - and how long are you keeping your stripwood in the tube bath?
Cheers, Mark.
Mark
I have a very highly controlled process - about 2 minutes or the time it takes to fish them out with the tweezers and put them on the paper. Then it's on to the next size. I actually like it when the color changes a little - makes it more realistic because every piece of wood on a prototype trestle took the treatment a little different and the sun and weather affected it a little different.
I should also point out that there are 6 tables spoons of ink (4 black, and 2 brown) to the pint in this bath so it is much darker than the normal George Sellios weather everything formula of 2 tablespoons to the pint.
John,
Just to let you know that I've been following this thread on a regular basis.
I can't imagine doing all that plaster work. Your rock work is fantastic and
really shows a lot of perseverance and creativity.
Quote from: jbelwood on December 09, 2014, 08:58:46 PM
John,
Just to let you know that I've been following this thread on a regular basis.
I can't imagine doing all that plaster work. Your rock work is fantastic and
really shows a lot of perseverance and creativity.
John
Thanks for the kind words and stopping by the thread. I enjoyed the plaster work but I'm also glad it's behind me now. It's time to finish the track work so I can get on with all the structures that need to be built. I actually spent the day today completing the plaster work that needed to be done behind the trestle that I'm currently building.
Today, I fixed the hole in the side of the mountain that was created by the trestle extension. I need to give the plaster a few days to dry and then I will paint it and start building the trestle. I've already produced about 30 footing castings from the molds I described above. I finished the 33 - 100 lb. bag of plaster with this latest work. I'm buying hydrocal in 1 gallon jugs now. The big mountains are all complete.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-101214184625.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-101214184625.jpeg)
Quote from: S&S RR on December 10, 2014, 06:55:57 PM
Today, I fixed the hole in the side of the mountain
Now, where in the heck are the Ledbetters gonna put their next still?
This is a growin' empire, you know!!!
Today, the mountain - tomorrow, the sippin' world!! :D :D :D
No wonder the plaster prices from subs has gone thru the roof for new construction.....John has been cornering the market and the manfacturers can't keep up with demand. ;D
Quote from: GPdemayo on December 11, 2014, 09:02:00 AM
No wonder the plaster prices from subs has gone thru the roof for new construction.....John has been cornering the market and the manfacturers can't keep up with demand. ;D
Sorry - they should go back down now!
Quote from: gnatshop on December 10, 2014, 09:48:40 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on December 10, 2014, 06:55:57 PM
Today, I fixed the hole in the side of the mountain
Now, where in the heck are the Ledbetters gonna put their next still?
This is a growin' empire, you know!!!
Today, the mountain - tomorrow, the sippin' world!! :D :D :D
Don't worry I have a very special place for them to hide the still.
Quote from: S&S RR on December 11, 2014, 10:34:54 AM
Quote from: GPdemayo on December 11, 2014, 09:02:00 AM
No wonder the plaster prices from subs has gone thru the roof for new construction.....John has been cornering the market and the manfacturers can't keep up with demand. ;D
Sorry - they should go back down now!
No worries John.....at least I now know the reason for the price jumps over the last year or so. ;D
Today , the white paster patch was painted black. This is the best way I have found to prime the plaster. It is also one of the processes where I use my camera as a modeling aid. I take pictures from different angles and make sure I have all the white spots painted black before I go to the next color. The white spots will show up like Slim's LED lights in pictures if you don't get rid of them. It usually takes three rounds of painting the white dots for me to get rid of them. You can't see them when your painting - they just pop up as the paint dries. I think it's bubbles of paint that open up as the paint dries. Here are a couple pictures where you can see some white spots.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-121214215853.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-121214215853.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-121214215935.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-121214215935.jpeg)
When this patch is painted with the final colors and blends in with the surrounding rocks it is going to make this scene look so much better.
John,
Forget about the price spike in Hydrocal, I'm just amazed that no grass grows under your feet. If this is how it's going to be for me in retirement, I can't wait until Juanuary 1, 2015.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on December 13, 2014, 08:45:36 AM
John,
Forget about the price spike in Hydrocal, I'm just amazed that no grass grows under your feet. If this is how it's going to be for me in retirement, I can't wait until Juanuary 1, 2015.
Tom ;D
Tom
Thanks for stopping by the thread. Technically, I'm not completely retired - I spend a day or two a week doing some consulting. It pays for the structure kits, locomotives, and scenery supplies including plaster, so I count it as layout time! I hope you guys decide to make the road trip up here to Michigan. I also hope to get down to Florida ( in the winter ;) )one of these years, and see your layout. Good luck in your retirement!
Today, I'm back in production of Pine Tree armatures - drilling the holes for the branches and getting them ready for the A&I bath.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-151214081447.jpeg)
In the picture above you can also see that I'm starting to use tints in my hydrocal castings. I'm playing with how much to add to get the correct concrete color I'm looking for. The nice part about tinting the casting is that any chips or bumps just look like weathering - you don't get that white showing through that has to be repainted.
Today, I finished painting the mountain patch that will be behind the trestle.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-181214195657.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-181214195657.jpeg)
I also did a test paint of the footings for the trestle. Which painting process do you think looks the most like an old concrete footing?
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-181214200023.jpeg)
I will post the painting process that goes with each number once I see what kind of feedback I get.
John.....
I'm leaning for #8.... but...
It also depends on the local soil color..........Dirt blows onto stuff and adds color to the original concrete color.
Then of course there is the color of the grease, soot, and coal detritus that falls from the upper deck.
No one said that any of this was simple......
And we do this for fun ! ! ! !
see ya
Bob
I like #5. Do you take the picture under your layout lighting? That can effect the color as well.
Jeff
Quote from: bparrish on December 19, 2014, 03:01:39 AM
John.....
I'm leaning for #8.... but...
It also depends on the local soil color..........Dirt blows onto stuff and adds color to the original concrete color.
Then of course there is the color of the grease, soot, and coal detritus that falls from the upper deck.
No one said that any of this was simple......
And we do this for fun ! ! ! !
see ya
Bob
Bob
Thanks for the input. I will post the processes that I used and what my eyes think, this evening. I will be adding lots of weathering once they are in place and supporting the trestle. This little experiment has me looking at lots of concrete the past couple of days. ;D
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on December 19, 2014, 07:46:36 AM
I like #5. Do you take the picture under your layout lighting? That can effect the color as well.
Jeff
Thanks for the input Jeff. Yes - the lighting over my workbench is the same as over the layout. I'll post more on this tonight.
Quote from: S&S RR on December 18, 2014, 08:06:06 PM
I also did a test paint of the footings for the trestle. Which painting process do you think looks the most like an old concrete footing?
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-181214200023.jpeg)
I will post the painting process that goes with each number once I see what kind of feedback I get.
I'm leaning between 7 and 8.
John....
One more thing........... Wood bent trestles that sat on concrete usually had some sort of saddle that was cast into the concrete and then the bents clevis bolted to them during the construction of the bridge. Don't forget rust stains from those saddles.
And consider putting drippings of creosote that come out of the wood in the heat of the first few summers in service.
see ya
Bob
Quote from: Randee on December 19, 2014, 10:59:06 AM
Quote from: S&S RR on December 18, 2014, 08:06:06 PM
I also did a test paint of the footings for the trestle. Which painting process do you think looks the most like an old concrete footing?
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-181214200023.jpeg)
I will post the painting process that goes with each number once I see what kind of feedback I get.
I'm leaning between 7 and 8.
Randy
Thanks for the input - I will post how I did each one when I get to a keyboard - I'm typing on a cell phone waiting for a oil change.
Quote from: bparrish on December 19, 2014, 12:38:55 PM
John....
One more thing........... Wood bent trestles that sat on concrete usually had some sort of saddle that was cast into the concrete and then the bents clevis bolted to them during the construction of the bridge. Don't forget rust stains from those saddles.
And consider putting drippings of creosote that come out of the wood in the heat of the first few summers in service.
see ya
Bob
Thanks Bob
The trestle bents I'm modeling have a sill plate with anchor bolts into the concrete.
I'm with the consensus, I think. 5 or 8.
dave
Quote from: deemery on December 19, 2014, 04:24:11 PM
I'm with the consensus, I think. 5 or 8.
dave
Thanks Dave
I'm going to go get my notes and post the process for each one.
So here is the process I used for each of the samples, with a few comments.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-181214200023.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-181214200023.jpeg)
1) Floquil - Aged Concrete Paint over white hydrocal casting. I have never seen concrete this color - just sayin.
2) MicroLux Acrylic - Aged Concrete Paint over white hydrocal casting. MicroLux did a great job of matching floquil color, but see number one.
3) Number 2 process with an additional wash of 2 tablespoon to the pint A&I wash. Still doesn't look right - to much yellow.
4) Floquil Concrete paint over white hydrocal. Looks just like fresh concrete that I could still put my hand print in. Not what I'm looking for.
5) Raw hydrocal casting with 2 pinches - the way Grandma taught me - of charcoal color tint mixed into the wet hydrocal. The color goes completely through these castings - if you chip it or break it the color is the same. My choice too. But I wanted to see if you guys agreed before I make a couple hundred of them.
6) Number 5 with a 2 tablespoon to the pint A&I wash - too dark.
7) Raw hydrocal casting with 1 pinch of charcoal color tint mixed into the wet hydrocal. This color to me makes the concrete look look older - lighter in color.
8) White hydrocal with a 2 tablespoon to the pint A&I wash. I liked this when I first did it but I believe the color will fade away with time. It reminds me of the hydrocal rock castings on my first layout - I used washes to color the castings - they looked great for about 6 months and then gradually the color faded away until they completely washed out and needed to be recolored. They are now holding up the mountains of my new layout - I used acrylic paints to paint everything on this layout (see past posts).
I really like the looks of the hydrocal castings with the powdered tints. I will be using tints for all my structure castings in the future - even when I plan on painting over them. I have made some stone and brick wall castings, sidewalks, and roads and really like how they look. I will post pictures after they have dried for a few days.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-191214164553.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-191214164553.jpeg)
The products I used.
John......
My favorite is the Floquil aged concrete. It has a little green in it and when dusted with a little of the dirt of your choice on you pike makes it look really great.
Thanx
Bob
I can't get the picture out of my mind of that Siekirk feller roamin' around Michigan bendin' over to
look at concrete!!
Bet the l'il grandma's were ratin' his butt!! ;D ;D ;D
Oh, yeah - we're supposed to to be talkin' 'bout model railroadin', ain't we?? ??? ??? ???
Quote from: bparrish on December 19, 2014, 06:13:00 PM
John......
My favorite is the Floquil aged concrete. It has a little green in it and when dusted with a little of the dirt of your choice on you pike makes it look really great.
Thanx
Bob
Thanks for the input Bob
Quote from: gnatshop on December 19, 2014, 07:49:30 PM
I can't get the picture out of my mind of that Siekirk feller roamin' around Michigan bendin' over to
look at concrete!!
Bet the l'il grandma's were ratin' his butt!! ;D ;D ;D
Oh, yeah - we're supposed to to be talkin' 'bout model railroadin', ain't we?? ??? ??? ???
David
I spend a lot of time looking and taken pictures - it keeps me out of trouble.
I planted over a 100 trees on the S&S today. Here are a few pictures of the locations.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-241214193102.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-241214192951.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-241214192838.jpeg)
John...
The dead and down fuel on the ground is a really great part of the scene.
In the west this is a major part of what a forest looks like. It is also the fuel that makes our forest fires make the national news. It is so dry here that that fuel of downed trees can stay around for ten to twenty years.
Thanx
Bob
Very impressive ....
Eric Québec city
Quote from: bparrish on December 24, 2014, 07:57:10 PM
John...
The dead and down fuel on the ground is a really great part of the scene.
In the west this is a major part of what a forest looks like. It is also the fuel that makes our forest fires make the national news. It is so dry here that that fuel of downed trees can stay around for ten to twenty years.
Thanx
Bob
Bob
Thanks - the scene is modeled after the many photographs of taken on trips to your beautiful part of the country. Finding natural materials that are the right color, size and texture is also a very fun part of the hobby for me. Thanks for following along.
Quote from: EricQuebec on December 24, 2014, 09:46:31 PM
Very impressive ....
Eric Québec city
Thanks Eric - this area is starting to take shape.
Merry Christmas from the Superior & Seattle Railroad.
Quote from: S&S RR on December 24, 2014, 10:50:29 PM
Quote from: EricQuebec on December 24, 2014, 09:46:31 PM
Very impressive ....
Eric Québec city
Thanks Eric - this area is starting to take shape.
Starting to take shape ? ! ? ! you are too modest :) this area is perfect
Merry christmas
Eric QUébec city
John,
I love it!
Tom ;D
Amazing.....have a Merry one John ! 8)
Looking really great, John.
Cheers, Mark.
Eric, Tom, Greg and Mark
Thanks for stopping by the thread, I'm taking a couple days break to spend time with my family but I will be back at it the first of the year. I'm really looking forward to building the trestle that will be in the foreground of the scene in my last pictures.
Quote from: S&S RR on December 20, 2014, 09:57:41 AM
Quote from: gnatshop on December 19, 2014, 07:49:30 PM
I can't get the picture out of my mind of that Siekirk feller roamin' around Michigan bendin' over to
look at concrete!!
Bet the l'il grandma's were ratin' his butt!! ;D ;D ;D
Oh, yeah - we're supposed to to be talkin' 'bout model railroadin', ain't we?? ??? ??? ???
David
I spend a lot of time looking and taken pictures - it keeps me out of trouble.
Doesn't that depend on what you're takin' pitchers of? ::)
Quote from: BandOGuy on December 26, 2014, 08:07:17 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on December 20, 2014, 09:57:41 AM
Quote from: gnatshop on December 19, 2014, 07:49:30 PM
I can't get the picture out of my mind of that Siekirk feller roamin' around Michigan bendin' over to
look at concrete!!
Bet the l'il grandma's were ratin' his butt!! ;D ;D ;D
Oh, yeah - we're supposed to to be talkin' 'bout model railroadin', ain't we?? ??? ??? ???
David
I spend a lot of time looking and taken pictures - it keeps me out of trouble.
Doesn't that depend on what you're takin' pitchers of? ::)
I guess you have a point - it depends on how bad I want to stay out of trouble. ;)
The last couple weeks have been a time of showing the layout to friends and family. I always come up with new plans and ideas as I talk through my plan. Now, it's time to get back at the building. Progress pictures to follow - when progress is made :) .
So how cold is it John...
see ya
Bob
Quote from: bparrish on January 05, 2015, 07:24:56 PM
So how cold is it John...
see ya
Bob
Bob
Normal winter time cold around here - lows just below zero. Great model railroading weather.
The construction of the Mt. Aiden Trestle began today with the setting of the first footing. Here are a few pictures of the process of adding the first few footings.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-060115181616.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-060115181711.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-060115181826.jpeg)
John.........
This is all pretty amazing stuff.
thanx
Bob
Today, I made some progress on the foam land forms on the back side of Mt. Aiden. I'm starting the process of filling in and smoothing the foam surface. It looks like we will need about 150 more trees to fill this area.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-070115222422.jpeg)
Quote from: S&S RR on January 06, 2015, 06:25:06 PM
The construction of the Mt. Aiden Trestle began today with the setting of the first footing. Here are a few pictures of the process of adding the first few footings.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-060115181616.jpeg)
Love It! What's your color formula for the rocks?
Quote from: Randee on January 08, 2015, 09:23:09 AM
Quote from: S&S RR on January 06, 2015, 06:25:06 PM
The construction of the Mt. Aiden Trestle began today with the setting of the first footing. Here are a few pictures of the process of adding the first few footings.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-060115181616.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-060115181616.jpeg)
Love It! What's your color formula for the rocks?
Randy
I have perfected this painting technique over the past five years - if you look back at the early pages I posted pictures of the three different steps. Step one: paint everything black. Step 2: paint everything dark brown - burnt umber. Step three: (this takes some practice) I use a pallet of four to five colors; sand, light, brown, dark brown, mud brown, and two shades of grey, just dab the colors on randomly, remember that the first color will be predominat when it dries. I keep dabbing on paint until it almost looks like it's all the same color. When it's wet it looks like sh**t. When it dries see the pictures. The first dabs are full strength paint - then I use more and more water. Give this process a try on a spare casting and see if you like the results. Let step one and two dry - step three keep it wet until you have made a mess.
Quote from: S&S RR on January 08, 2015, 02:59:55 PM
Quote from: Randee on January 08, 2015, 09:23:09 AM
Quote from: S&S RR on January 06, 2015, 06:25:06 PM
The construction of the Mt. Aiden Trestle began today with the setting of the first footing. Here are a few pictures of the process of adding the first few footings.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-060115181616.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-060115181616.jpeg)
Love It! What's your color formula for the rocks?
Randy
I have perfected this painting technique over the past five years - if you look back at the early pages I posted pictures of the three different steps. Step one: paint everything black. Step 2: paint everything dark brown - burnt umber. Step three: (this takes some practice) I use a pallet of four to five colors; sand, light, brown, dark brown, mud brown, and two shades of grey, just dab the colors on randomly, remember that the first color will be predominat when it dries. I keep dabbing on paint until it almost looks like it's all the same color. When it's wet it looks like sh**t. When it dries see the pictures. The first dabs are full strength paint - then I use more and more water. Give this process a try on a spare casting and see if you like the results. Let step one and two dry - step three keep it wet until you have made a mess.
Thanks for your time. I am SO inept when it comes to color and placing them on my rocks...everything seems to turn to shit color, LITERALLY!
Quote from: Randee on January 08, 2015, 03:46:06 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on January 08, 2015, 02:59:55 PM
Quote from: Randee on January 08, 2015, 09:23:09 AM
Quote from: S&S RR on January 06, 2015, 06:25:06 PM
The construction of the Mt. Aiden Trestle began today with the setting of the first footing. Here are a few pictures of the process of adding the first few footings.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-060115181616.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-060115181616.jpeg)
Love It! What's your color formula for the rocks?
Randy
I have perfected this painting technique over the past five years - if you look back at the early pages I posted pictures of the three different steps. Step one: paint everything black. Step 2: paint everything dark brown - burnt umber. Step three: (this takes some practice) I use a pallet of four to five colors; sand, light, brown, dark brown, mud brown, and two shades of grey, just dab the colors on randomly, remember that the first color will be predominat when it dries. I keep dabbing on paint until it almost looks like it's all the same color. When it's wet it looks like sh**t. When it dries see the pictures. The first dabs are full strength paint - then I use more and more water. Give this process a try on a spare casting and see if you like the results. Let step one and two dry - step three keep it wet until you have made a mess.
Thanks for your time. I am SO inept when it comes to color and placing them on my rocks...everything seems to turn to shit color, LITERALLY!
Randy
If you want to see how I do it, let me know and I will throw a casting and some paints into my tool box for the EXPO. We can have a clinic during Mike's forum get together.
Hi
fantastic rockwork and the trees are looking beautiful....Great progress....
Cheers,Chris
Quote from: Twist67 on January 13, 2015, 02:14:34 AM
Hi
fantastic rockwork and the trees are looking beautiful....Great progress....
Cheers,Chris
Thanks Chris
I made some progress with the footings for the Mt. Aiden Trestle. I also made a half dozen bents today - should be starting construction of the wood part of the trestle tomorrow.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-130115195924.jpeg)
I also added more of the filler material to the land forms on the back side of Mt. Aiden.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-130115200016.jpeg)
Quote from: S&S RR on January 13, 2015, 08:05:00 PM
I also added more of the filler material to the land forms on the back side of Mt. Aiden.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-130115200016.jpeg)
So...how far did you have to toss the stuff in the back? Seriously, it's looking great :D
Quote from: Randee on January 14, 2015, 04:44:42 AM
Quote from: S&S RR on January 13, 2015, 08:05:00 PM
I also added more of the filler material to the land forms on the back side of Mt. Aiden.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-130115200016.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-130115200016.jpeg)
So...how far did you have to toss the stuff in the back? Seriously, it's looking great :D
Randy
It is a long reach from the temporary bridge that I build across the tracks but I can do it. This area was an access hatch for the construction of the layout that will no longer be needed. I can reach all of the track for cleaning so it is becoming part of the pine and aspen forest. The rocks in this area have had the first two coats of paint. I will add the third and finally painting step when I'm done working in the area and ready to add the trestle that will go where the temporary bridge is now.
Watching with interest, John.
Looking forward to seeing your trestle placement.
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: mark dalrymple on January 14, 2015, 11:12:59 PM
Watching with interest, John.
Looking forward to seeing your trestle placement.
Cheers, Mark.
Mark
Thanks for stopping by.
The trestle crew set the first, second, and third trestle bent on the Mt. Aiden trestle, yesterday.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-150115095904.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-150115100244.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-150115100442.jpeg)
The trestle crew is doing a great job!
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on January 15, 2015, 10:20:01 AM
The trestle crew is doing a great job!
Tom ;D
Tom
Thanks, from the trestle crew. The cross bracing is next - wow is this thing eating up strip wood. The table saw is setup for another cutting session tomorrow.
Just don't let the grass grow under your feet!!
Quote from: gnatshop on January 16, 2015, 09:10:55 PM
Just don't let the grass grow under your feet!!
David
I hope this scene is a 100 years off for this Railroad.
You're retired - forget the corporate rules and use old time rules!!
"Build It Right and It Will Last"
Old time philosophy still has it's place - my opinion says that it should still be adhered to!!
The trestle construction continues. The soldiering clamps that I bought to process Super Trees sure work well for clamping the cross bracing while the glue dries.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190115140543.jpeg)
John,
Wow, that is going to be one beautiful structure and certainly an eye catcher as well. Is this an area a visitor would see upon entering the layout room?
Tom ;D
I forgot to say just how the SE tree clamps come in handy for so many other things.
Tom ;D
Quote from: S&S RR on January 19, 2015, 02:07:12 PM
The trestle construction continues. The soldiering clamps that I bought to process Super Trees sure work well for clamping the cross bracing while the glue dries.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190115140543.jpeg)
Being ocd sometimes, I love a project like this...:)
Quote from: ACL1504 on January 19, 2015, 03:11:00 PM
John,
Wow, that is going to be one beautiful structure and certainly an eye catcher as well. Is this an area a visitor would see upon entering the layout room?
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom
The trestle will be about 7 feet long when completed - about 1/3 of it will be visible from the door way. The rest is hidden behind a mountain as you enter the room.
Quote from: Randee on January 19, 2015, 03:17:11 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on January 19, 2015, 02:07:12 PM
The trestle construction continues. The soldiering clamps that I bought to process Super Trees sure work well for clamping the cross bracing while the glue dries.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190115140543.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190115140543.jpeg)
Being ocd sometimes, I love a project like this... :)
I'm having lots of fun with this project. I spent 5 hours today cutting the strip wood I need to complete it.
If you are considering cutting your own strip wood or own a table saw I recommend you take a look at the 3D push block pictured here. I purchased this device last week because I was looking for a way to get more consistent cuts with my table saw and was very uncomfortable with the traditional push blocks cutting small strip wood. I spent 5 hours using this today and found it worked great and really improved the safety of using a table saw. And it's made in the USA.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190115193538.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190115193446.jpeg)
Sadly because it is made in the USA it costs $ 120,- here in the Netherlands, sorry I have to say that if it's not made in Europe I'd rather have it made in China , I hope you understand what I mean.
Quote from: Janbouli on January 19, 2015, 08:30:21 PM
Sadly because it is made in the USA it costs $ 120,- here in the Netherlands, sorry I have to say that if it's not made in Europe I'd rather have it made in China , I hope you understand what I mean.
Interesting - I paid $45 for mine here in the US. If you wanted one how much would it cost to ship it to the Netherlands?
I spent three days cutting strip wood for the Mt. Aiden trestle. I now have the parts for 40 more bents. I need one more day of cutting and I should have all the cross bracing pieces also ready for staining.
That certainly is a lot of wood.... ;D
John, the push block looks neat - where did you get it from?
Marty
Quote from: CVSNE on January 23, 2015, 10:13:39 AM
That certainly is a lot of wood.... ;D
John, the push block looks neat - where did you get it from?
Marty
Marty
I bought mine from a company called Rockler - I have also been buying my bulk basswood from them. I had a 20% off coupon and bought a years supply along with the pusher block.
Quote from: CVSNE on January 23, 2015, 10:13:39 AM
That certainly is a lot of wood.... ;D
John, the push block looks neat - where did you get it from?
Marty
http://www.microjig.com/products/grr-ripper/ (http://www.microjig.com/products/grr-ripper/) has a "where to buy" link. They can be had from some Lowe's.
Quote from: Oldguy on January 24, 2015, 10:42:55 AM
Quote from: CVSNE on January 23, 2015, 10:13:39 AM
That certainly is a lot of wood.... ;D
John, the push block looks neat - where did you get it from?
Marty
http://www.microjig.com/products/grr-ripper/ (http://www.microjig.com/products/grr-ripper/) has a "where to buy" link. They can be had from some Lowe's.
Bob
Thanks for the input - I just ordered one of the 1/8 inch blades for mine. If you are interested in one watch the pricing.
The strip wood for the next 40 bents and cross braces for the Mt. Aiden Trestle have been cut and stained. I went through a whole pint of A&I stain. The sticks in the picture started out as 1 1/8 x 5 x 24 inch basswood boards like the one on the right in the picture. The construction crew will be at it first thing in the morning.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250115185050.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250115185050.jpeg)
The wood on the bottom right just came out of the A&I bath and have not dried at all yet.
Dang, that is one huge bunch of trestle pieces cut and stained. The trestle will be a FTOB (Fantastic Thing of Beauty).
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on January 26, 2015, 07:00:12 AM
Dang, that is one huge bunch of trestle pieces cut and stained. The trestle will be a FTOB (Fantastic Thing of Beauty).
Tom ;D
I hope so Tom - I will have many hours in it.
Hi there,
fantastic trestle build.....and also a lot of wood you´ve cut for that build....
nice tool for cutting the wood....
Cheers,Chris
Quote from: Twist67 on January 27, 2015, 09:19:18 AM
Hi there,
fantastic trestle build.....and also a lot of wood you´ve cut for that build....
nice tool for cutting the wood....
Cheers,Chris
Chris
Thanks for stopping by the thread. I really like cutting my own stripwood - the new table saw is working out nice.
Wayne Olson worked with me on the layout today - we spent most of the day getting the bugs out of the wiring for the yard. At the end of the day we had every issue figured out and need to make a couple more soldier joints to have everything fixed. The yard is 99 % functional at this point - a real milestone.
The crew got right to work on the Mt. Aiden Trestle with the new shipment of lumber. Here are a few progress pictures.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-280115215333.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-280115215407.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-280115215444.jpeg)
Boy, the Mt. Aiden crew would be in deep doo-doo without all them self-clampin' tweezers!
Although it put the Ledbetter timber monkeys out of a job climbin' the bents and holdin' them
braces in place while they were nailed or bolted.
At least, they didn't get a hole in their hands like usual!!!
Really looking excellent, John.
I'm still getting over that whole pint of AI!
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: mark dalrymple on January 28, 2015, 11:44:05 PM
Really looking excellent, John.
I'm still getting over that whole pint of AI!
Cheers, Mark.
David and Mark
Thanks for stoping by:
The soldiering tweezers are working great - only tool in the box that seems to work for this project. We did have to let a few crew members go - "technology".
Yes - I used a pint of A&I on the wood I've cut so far for this project. I have to go to the store today and by more - I think a pint for the Railroad and a pint for me is in order. As my Grandpa used to say, it keeps the cold out of my bones. I just released I'm the Grandpa now - how did that happen?
The crew set bents number 8 and 9 in place - only 33 more to go! This is a great project but I see little sticks when I close my eyes at night. I can't imagine what this would cost if I bought all the strip wood at the LHS. And all those bar codes to remove. I'm sure I paid for the new table saw on just this one project.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-010215092524.jpeg)
Looks great John.....keep up the great work. 8)
Quote from: GPdemayo on February 01, 2015, 09:33:55 AM
Looks great John.....keep up the great work. 8)
Thanks for kind words and for stopping by Greg. I'm going to take a break from the trestle build today and finish the scenery behind the trestle before I have issues with access.
John,
Massive, wonderful and fantasstic looking. Just knowing you cut your own stripwood makes it even more impressive. AAA++++
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 01, 2015, 10:53:17 AM
John,
Massive, wonderful and fantasstic looking. Just knowing you cut your own stripwood makes it even more impressive. AAA++++
Tom ;D
Tom
Thanks for the kind words and encouragement.
Looks great John. Do you have any pictures of what it looks like on top?
Alan
Quote from: nextceo on February 01, 2015, 10:33:28 PM
Looks great John. Do you have any pictures of what it looks like on top?
Alan
Thanks for stopping by the thread and for the kind words. I will take some top view shots the next time I take some pictures. The ties and track will be added as the last step when the trestle is complete. The trestle is a 36 inch radius curve.
Wow! :o That's really, really cool. That is going to be such a neat scene when it's finished and the trains are rumbling across that trestle. Outstanding!
Quote from: ReadingBob on February 02, 2015, 07:34:06 AM
Wow! :o That's really, really cool. That is going to be such a neat scene when it's finished and the trains are rumbling across that trestle. Outstanding!
Bob
Thanks - it would be cool to be able to bring it to the EXPO - I don't think it will fit in the Jeep. I designed it so I can photograph locomotives with seven different mountains in the background.
That thing looks like it was designed to go for a ride in the jeep to the Expo, if the Super really wanted to share with his buddies. And maybe win a free pass to the next Expo with a Structure Contest win. It will be one of the world's wonders, John.
Quote from: Mike Engler on February 04, 2015, 06:24:27 AM
That thing looks like it was designed to go for a ride in the jeep to the Expo, if the Super really wanted to share with his buddies. And maybe win a free pass to the next Expo with a Structure Contest win. It will be one of the world's wonders, John.
Mike
Thanks for the kind words - this one will be for the photograph contest. It is attached to many pounds of plaster.
I have switched gears for awhile on the layout - I'm working on painting castings for my next three structure builds - a scratch built machine shop that will be next to the Stone Roundhouse, FSM kits Chippy Hollow Hardware, and Yehudah Heating company. My plan is to keep switching back and forth between structure building and track and scenery work. The trestle will be built in three different sections.
A man with that many projects is kinda like a man with 3 or 4 mistresses!
A cat fight over the most attention!! ??? ??? ???
Quote from: gnatshop on February 10, 2015, 12:29:02 AM
A man with that many projects is kinda like a man with 3 or 4 mistresses!
A cat fight over the most attention!! ??? ??? ???
David
I'm just not sure how to respond to this one. ;D
Quote from: S&S RR on February 10, 2015, 07:37:01 PM
Quote from: gnatshop on February 10, 2015, 12:29:02 AM
A man with that many projects is kinda like a man with 3 or 4 mistresses!
A cat fight over the most attention!! ??? ??? ???
David
I'm just not sure how to respond to this one. ;D
A catty response will leave you feline fine. 8)
One of my favorite parts of the hobby is going out in the field and collecting natural scenery supplies. I collected talus and rocks that are just the right colors for the layout form this mountain near Jerome, AZ. I think every shade of brown and gray were available right in this one location. The materials have no shinny. sparkly, stuff in them that makes them look unnatural under the layout lights. Mother nature had done most of the work to get them ground into the different textures required for an HO scale layout. All I had to do was shovel the material into 5 gallon buckets.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-100215191736.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-120215223253.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-120215223105.jpeg)
I'm working on the trees for the Superior portion of the layout (see Morristown and Erie Layout thread).
The annual meeting for the Superior & Seattle RR has ended it's time to get back to work on that trestle build. We tried to store up enough warmth to get us to the point where the warm weather finds it's way to Michigan. We had a great trip and I enjoyed working on the Morristown & Erie with Frank.
That great spirit of model railroad sharing should pay back in spades - especially those spade-fulls of talus that
you got out there!
Oh, crap - Candy is gonna get me - she told me once that 'especially' wasn't really a word!
What the heck - it fits for what I wanna say!!!
Quote from: S&S RR on February 23, 2015, 10:44:57 PM
The annual meeting for the Superior & Seattle RR has ended it's time to get back to work on that trestle build. We tried to store up enough warmth to get us to the point where the warm weather finds it's way to Michigan. We had a great trip and I enjoyed working on the Morristown & Erie with Frank.
John,
Happy to see you and Wayne made it back to the frozen North. I'll get out to Frank's one of these days.
Tom ;D
Quote from: gnatshop on February 24, 2015, 12:11:28 AM
That great spirit of model railroad sharing should pay back in spades - especially those spade-fulls of talus that
you got out there!
Oh, crap - Candy is gonna get me - she told me once that 'especially' wasn't really a word!
What the heck - it fits for what I wanna say!!!
David
A great part of this hobby is the people you meet.
Especially, is in my dictionary
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 24, 2015, 06:34:35 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on February 23, 2015, 10:44:57 PM
The annual meeting for the Superior & Seattle RR has ended it's time to get back to work on that trestle build. We tried to store up enough warmth to get us to the point where the warm weather finds it's way to Michigan. We had a great trip and I enjoyed working on the Morristown & Erie with Frank.
John,
Happy to see you and Wayne made it back to the frozen North. I'll get out to Frank's one of these days.
Tom ;D
Tom
Wayne is still enjoying the warm weather. I believe he plans on more fun with Frank.
I didn't even get out of the state of Arizona before I found snow and below freezing temperatures.
The crew is back at work on the Mt. Aiden Trestle. The crew is adding about two bents a day with all the cross bracing, building the bents for the next day and glueing in the foundations a few days ahead so they can dry.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-010315165319.jpeg)
I want to thank Dr. Jeff aka Zephyrus52246 for the tip of using my iPad or iPhone for establishing the grade for the trestle. I downloaded the application "Clinometer" after reading his build thread "The Empire". The iPad application works especially well - just the right size. I was using buildups with levels and steel blocks to make the small digital level I bought from MicroMart years ago work. Another great application for my phone.
I also rechecked the slope with my laser level to make sure we are on the right trajectory - looks good so far - if
you look closely you can see the red laser dot on the steel target block.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-010315165230.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-010315165359.jpeg)
The trestle crew discovered today that the CEO wasn't the only one keeping and eye on their progress.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-030315153606.jpeg)
Well today I added 30 more pine trees and 50 Aspen trees behind the Mt. Aiden Trestle. It is amazing how many trees this layout can eat up. So far we have 10 of the 44 bents for the trestle in place. I decided to plant trees while I waited for the glue to dry on the next 4 bents.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-040315172548.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-040315172508.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-040315172421.jpeg)
John..........
This is turning into a pretty cool railroad.
thanx
Bob
Quote from: bparrish on March 04, 2015, 05:43:51 PM
John..........
This is turning into a pretty cool railroad.
thanx Bob
Correction - the Ledbetters said it was awful dern coool!
They wanna go huntin' there - gotta be some mountain goats roamin' around there!
And the Ledbetters love goat meat!!!
Quote from: bparrish on March 04, 2015, 05:43:51 PM
John..........
This is turning into a pretty cool railroad.
thanx
Bob
Thanks Bob
I'm having fun with it. Thanks for following the thread.
Quote from: gnatshop on March 04, 2015, 07:53:20 PM
Quote from: bparrish on March 04, 2015, 05:43:51 PM
John..........
This is turning into a pretty cool railroad.
thanx Bob
Correction - the Ledbetters said it was awful dern coool!
They wanna go huntin' there - gotta be some mountain goats roamin' around there!
And the Ledbetters love goat meat!!!
David
I'm sure there will be many different critters running around in those mountains - it is all about the details. When I finish this area we will send in a camera crew to see what they can find. Thanks for following the thread.
Looking spectacular, John!
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: mark dalrymple on March 05, 2015, 02:03:27 PM
Looking spectacular, John!
Cheers, Mark.
Mark
Thanks - and also thanks for following the thread.
John,
That Clinometer sure looks like a fun AP. I refuse to carry a phone and I can't seem to get one on my home landline! 8) 8) 8)
Layout is looking very realistic.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on March 06, 2015, 07:43:29 AM
John,
That Clinometer sure looks like a fun AP. I refuse to carry a phone and I can't seem to get one on my home landline! 8) 8) 8)
Layout is looking very realistic.
Tom ;D
Tom
Thanks, as for the phone, I hated it when I was working but now that I'm retired it has become a useful tool. The camera on my iPhone takes better pictures than my expensive SLR. We ended up getting rid of the land lines. I started out with the first cell phones because of my job - we called them bricks because they were so heavy and shaped like a brick. The batteries only lasted a few minutes when you were away from the car (that was actually a good feature when the boss was telling you something you didn't want to hear).
Quote from: ACL1504 on March 06, 2015, 07:43:29 AM
John,
That Clinometer sure looks like a fun AP. I refuse to carry a phone and I can't seem to get one on my home landline! 8) 8) 8)
Layout is looking very realistic.
Tom ;D
Tom, you could buy an iPod Touch. All the apps of the iPhone but no telephone function :-)
dave
Quote from: deemery on March 06, 2015, 11:04:44 AM
Quote from: ACL1504 on March 06, 2015, 07:43:29 AM
John,
That Clinometer sure looks like a fun AP. I refuse to carry a phone and I can't seem to get one on my home landline! 8) 8) 8)
Layout is looking very realistic.
Tom ;D
Tom, you could buy an iPod Touch. All the apps of the iPhone but no telephone function :-)
dave
The iPad works better than the iPhone for this application.
John and Dave,
I'll drop the landline one day soon but the number will be the Babe's cell number. If I ever do, which I doubt, get a cell phone it will stay on the counter and this is where I'll get the messages. 8) 8) 8) 8) Just like having a land line.
Tom
Today bents 15 and 16 for the Mt. Aiden Trestle were set in place. I also included, as requested, a picture from the aisle that shows the trestle from a little farther away. The trestle will end on the right side of the laser level.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-090315161529.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-090315161529.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-090315161626.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-090315161626.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-090315161452.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-090315161452.jpeg)
These are definitely construction shots - so much for keeping the bench work free of clutter.
Hi there,
Fantastic trestle build and it´s a long way to go to the laser level.....But it will be one eyecatcher when it´s finished....
Great work.
Regards,Chris
The last picture could be a thread all by itself - 'The Requirements of Model Railroading' !!
Quote from: ACL1504 on March 08, 2015, 02:02:04 PM
John and Dave,
I'll drop the landline one day soon but the number will be the Babe's cell number. If I ever do, which I doubt, get a cell phone it will stay on the counter and this is where I'll get the messages. 8) 8) 8) 8) Just like having a land line.
Tom
Late to the party Tom, but you could also consider an iPad mini with or without the phone installed. Apps work across the whole Apple line, and it has a good sized screen for viewing whatever you want, email and messages included. Price is reasonable also.
Quote from: Twist67 on March 11, 2015, 08:57:42 AM
Hi there,
Fantastic trestle build and it´s a long way to go to the laser level.....But it will be one eyecatcher when it´s finished....
Great work.
Regards,Chris
Thanks Chris
Yes - there are a lot of sticks to be cut and glued to finish this trestle but I'm having fun with it.
Quote from: gnatshop on March 11, 2015, 02:57:32 PM
The last picture could be a thread all by itself - 'The Requirements of Model Railroading' !!
Yes it could - how many tools and things can you put on the benchwork before the work comes to a halt.
Quote from: BandOGuy on March 11, 2015, 03:27:08 PM
Quote from: ACL1504 on March 08, 2015, 02:02:04 PM
John and Dave,
I'll drop the landline one day soon but the number will be the Babe's cell number. If I ever do, which I doubt, get a cell phone it will stay on the counter and this is where I'll get the messages. 8) 8) 8) 8) Just like having a land line.
Tom
Late to the party Tom, but you could also consider an iPad mini with or without the phone installed. Apps work across the whole Apple line, and it has a good sized screen for viewing whatever you want, email and messages included. Price is reasonable also.
Thanks for stopping by the thread - it is amazing how useful my iPhone/iPad have become in my modeling. I also got a blue tooth speaker system for Christmas that plays the music on my iPad while I work.
Well, I guess it is time I seriously considered upgrading my Campbell's Soup cans and string.
Tom 8) 8) 8)
Wow Tom, you have the Campbell soup version. I have that foreign one with Knorr.
Marty
Tom and Marty
I think you will find that the upgrade from the soup cans will be just as cool as going from DC to DCC.
John,
Thanks for the overview. I can see beyond the clutter and see great progress with the trestle and trees. Speaking of trees, Wayne called last week and we talked about getting together this week to plant more trees. Probably mid week. I have a bunch cut and cleaned and ready for flocking. Since we are having high temps, the flocking dries real quick. Thank you again for your help on the trees. I have really gotten them down and this will go fast. What a different it makes.
I'll be working at Russ's layout today. We will be starting to work two days a week, one day on his and one day on mine, so we can have both layouts farther along for the convention.
Have a great day.
Frank / Erieman
Quote from: Erieman on March 15, 2015, 01:08:09 PM
John,
Thanks for the overview. I can see beyond the clutter and see great progress with the trestle and trees. Speaking of trees, Wayne called last week and we talked about getting together this week to plant more trees. Probably mid week. I have a bunch cut and cleaned and ready for flocking. Since we are having high temps, the flocking dries real quick. Thank you again for your help on the trees. I have really gotten them down and this will go fast. What a different it makes.
I'll be working at Russ's layout today. We will be starting to work two days a week, one day on his and one day on mine, so we can have both layouts farther along for the convention.
Have a great day.
Frank / Erieman
Frank
Thanks for the kind words. Keep Wayne busy while he is out there - he needs to keep in top form. We have lots of trees and track to add this summer on the S&S.
I cleaned up the place a little for Randy and Sue's visit so I thought I would post a few photographs of the trestle project without all the tools and junk on the benchwork.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170315182357.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170315182252.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170315182217.jpeg)
John,
Reference Trestle Project and Pine Trees...
Will keep on watching.
Beautiful work !
Tom
Quote from: tom.boyd.125 on March 17, 2015, 09:06:13 PM
John,
Reference Trestle Project and Pine Trees...
Will keep on watching.
Beautiful work !
Tom
Tom
Thanks for stopping by the thread and the kind words.
The cross-bracing is complete on the first 16 bents - and 7 more bents are assembled and ready for installation on the Mt. Aiden Trestle.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-200315201248.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-200315201248.jpeg)
A couple different views from the front and back - adding bents 17 and 18.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-200315212126.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-200315212102.jpeg)
Mind-bending! :-)
dave
Quote from: deemery on March 20, 2015, 09:39:43 PM
Mind-bending! :-)
dave
One needs to see it in PERSON!!! Thanks for the tour John. :D
Quote from: Randee on March 21, 2015, 05:21:18 AM
Quote from: deemery on March 20, 2015, 09:39:43 PM
Mind-bending! :-)
dave
One needs to see it in PERSON!!! Thanks for the tour John. :D
Thanks for stopping by Randy. I enjoyed showing you and Sue what I'm up too.
AWESOME ......
Eric Québec city
Quote from: EricQuebec on March 21, 2015, 10:46:06 AM
AWESOME ......
Eric Québec city
Thanks Eric
I'm at the point in this project where I'm ready to start working on the details and see what it's really going to look like.
I painted the first batch of 900 bolts this morning for the Trestle build.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210315144043.jpeg)
I see I'm falling behind in the race to own to most clamps. Off to Harbor Freight! ;D The trestle is looking great so far.
Jeff
John....
And I thought I was over the edge ! ! ! ! ! !
see ya
Bob
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on March 21, 2015, 02:51:37 PM
I see I'm falling behind in the race to own to most clamps. Off to Harbor Freight! ;D The trestle is looking great so far.
Jeff
Jeff
Thanks for the kind words - I'm liking the trestle more and more as I get closer to the other side. It has been a big project.
Interesting comment on the clamps - I just added clamps to my shopping list. I had to stop painting because I ran out. Home Depot sells the clamps in the picture 10 for a dollar - they had a barrel full of them last time I was there and I didn't buy any. I also use these to hang my trees to dry so I really do need them. They work better than wooden clothes pins because the matte medium doesn't stick to them like it does to wood.
Quote from: bparrish on March 21, 2015, 03:05:02 PM
John....
And I thought I was over the edge ! ! ! ! ! !
see ya
Bob
Bob
I'm so far over the edge I forgot where it was - but I'm having fun so who cares.
Quote from: S&S RR on March 17, 2015, 06:27:06 PM
I cleaned up the place a little for Randy and Sue's visit so I thought I would post a few photographs of the trestle project without all the tools and junk on the benchwork.
Why do them women get this honor? You wouldn't clean it up if I came up that way!! :o :o :o
You'ld probably put me to work dragin' more schtuff out!!! ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Quote from: gnatshop on March 21, 2015, 08:21:47 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on March 17, 2015, 06:27:06 PM
I cleaned up the place a little for Randy and Sue's visit so I thought I would post a few photographs of the trestle project without all the tools and junk on the benchwork.
Why do them women get this honor? You wouldn't clean it up if I came up that way!! :o :o :o
You'ld probably put me to work dragin' more schtuff out!!! ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
David
If you make the journey all the way up here to Michigan - I will have a cold one waiting for you. We will talk trains - and then I will put you to work. Seriously let me know if your ever up this way I would love to show you what I'm up too.
John,
I'm really enjoying the curved trestle build. That is one beautiful trestle. Fantastic build my friend.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on March 22, 2015, 12:05:20 PM
John,
I'm really enjoying the curved trestle build. That is one beautiful trestle. Fantastic build my friend.
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom
I'm looking forward to seeing you at the EXPO - I remembered to pack the ballast!
I had a great time at the EXPO. I came back with lots of new ideas for the layout. The crew made no progress on the trestle build while I was away ;) . I'm going to stow away all of the goodies from the EXPO and get back at it.
The Mt. Aiden Trestle is getting longer and longer. I added 6 more bents and cross braces today.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-030415170559.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-030415170627.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-030415170529.jpeg)
I also started adding the details on the other end while I was waiting for the glue to dry. Lots of number 70 holes and tiny bolt castings. The bifocals are getting a workout on this job.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-030415170803.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-030415170733.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-030415170705.jpeg)
Now this is an exercise in patience - that's a long stinkin' trestle!!
My hat is off to you - GREAT PROJECT and TOP QUALITY MODELING!!
It is amazing! The number of NBWs must cost more than the stripwood, let alone the time to drill all the holes. You are a patient person. Good job!
Marty
Quote from: gnatshop on April 03, 2015, 06:48:35 PM
Now this is an exercise in patience - that's a long stinkin' trestle!!
My hat is off to you - GREAT PROJECT and TOP QUALITY MODELING!!
Thanks David - yes it is a long stinking trestle - seems to be getting longer on me too.
Quote from: martin.ojaste on April 03, 2015, 10:48:43 PM
It is amazing! The number of NBWs must cost more than the stripwood, let alone the time to drill all the holes. You are a patient person. Good job!
Marty
Marty
Thanks for the kind words. The bolt castings are the high cost item on this project. I cut the strip wood myself on my table saw - so it got the cost down to my budget. I have gone through 3 - 5x1.25x24 planks of basswood so far on this project. I don't want to think about what the packaged strip wood would cost for this project.
John,
I enjoyed our time at the EXPO; however, that was last week. This little trestle isn't finished yet? Not to worry, I came from the EXPO inspired as well. Problem is I'm just now getting over the long drive. 8) 8)
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on April 04, 2015, 08:18:11 AM
John,
I enjoyed our time at the EXPO; however, that was last week. This little trestle isn't finished yet? Not to worry, I came from the EXPO inspired as well. Problem is I'm just now getting over the long drive. 8) 8)
Tom ;D
Tom
I'm not interested in a long car ride right now either - The EXPO was great but that is a long trip. Especially with only three weeks between it and the AZ trip. Thanks again for arranging the trip to Howard Zane's - what a great layout - I have about 500 pictures to post
.
Hi John.....the trestle is looking great.....just a thought, but if you brought in some dynamite and blasted the rock on the right side, you could get more room for a really "loooooooooong" trestle..... ;D
Quote from: GPdemayo on April 04, 2015, 08:32:19 AM
Hi John.....the trestle is looking great.....just a thought, but if you brought in some dynamite and blasted the rock on the right side, you could get more room for a really "loooooooooong" trestle..... ;D
Greg
Great idea! The problem is there is another trestle to build just a little ways down the line from that land form (much shorter this time). The trestle is actually going much faster now that I have a system down for building the bents and installing the cross bracing. Thanks for stopping by the thread and the kind words.
I love the down-the-track view of the trestle (and I'm always glad to see photos of people's layouts in place, to see how they treat fascia, hide the stuff under the layout, etc.)
dave
John...........
I hereby volunteer to come and judge your scenic work for an AP certificate. I can tell you already that I would bust the prototype for conformability.
Very cool, sir
see ya
Bob
John,
The trestle is looking simply marvelous. How about a wide screen shot of the area? That is going to be a wonderful trestle when completed. How many hours in the build so far? Shucks, don't tell me, because it's work the time well spent building such a wonderful bridge. Keep up the great work. Everything is looking wonderful.
Frank / Erieman
Gee John, when we were hanging out at Howard Zane's place and the EXPO last week I could have sworn you were (almost) sane. Your roundhouse and trestle project prove otherwise. ;D Magnificent work!
hey John
that trestle looks really great !!
Looks like i will have to plan a trip to visit your layout once it's completed ....
love the rock work ....
keep rocking !!
cheers
vikas
Quote from: deemery on April 04, 2015, 10:28:54 AM
I love the down-the-track view of the trestle (and I'm always glad to see photos of people's layouts in place, to see how they treat fascia, hide the stuff under the layout, etc.)
dave
Dave
Thanks - I want this to be a "build thread" for just that reason. When I got started in this hobby the only way to get pictures of the in process or builds was to visit layouts. I want this thread to show the how I did it and prompt questions - the finish pictures will come later. Thanks for stopping by the thread.
Quote from: bparrish on April 04, 2015, 02:45:14 PM
John...........
I hereby volunteer to come and judge your scenic work for an AP certificate. I can tell you already that I would bust the prototype for conformability.
Very cool, sir
see ya
Bob
Bob
Thanks for the kind words. I have many pictures of the prototype scattered on the benchwork when I'm working on the scenery. I hope you will make a visit here to see what I'm up too.
Quote from: Erieman on April 04, 2015, 03:21:20 PM
John,
The trestle is looking simply marvelous. How about a wide screen shot of the area? That is going to be a wonderful trestle when completed. How many hours in the build so far? Shucks, don't tell me, because it's work the time well spent building such a wonderful bridge. Keep up the great work. Everything is looking wonderful.
Frank / Erieman
Frank
Thanks for the kind words.
I'll take another wide screen shot the next time I clear of the benchwork ;D . I keep track of the hours on each project ( I think it's an old habit from my Car Program Management Days) so I'll let you know when it's complete. By the way - this trestle is inspired by the railing on your hotel - speaking of crazy projects and lots of hours. Thanks for stopping by the thread and get back to work on those trees.
Quote from: ReadingBob on April 05, 2015, 09:15:38 AM
Gee John, when we were hanging out at Howard Zane's place and the EXPO last week I could have sworn you were (almost) sane. Your roundhouse and trestle project prove otherwise. ;D Magnificent work!
Bob
Thanks for stopping by and the kind words. As to being crazy - I'm a model railroader - and I like to hang around with model railroaders - I rest my case.
I had a great time hanging out with you guys at Howard Zane's and the Expo. Speaking of Howard Zane and crazy - I think we should all show up with shovels and dig the hole for the next addition to his basement. What a great layout! I took 536 pictures at his place that I will post over the next few months.
Quote from: vikas chander on April 05, 2015, 09:42:38 AM
hey John
that trestle looks really great !!
Looks like i will have to plan a trip to visit your layout once it's completed ....
love the rock work ....
keep rocking !!
cheers
vikas
Vikas
Great to hear from you - we missed you at the EXPO. Thanks for the kind words and stopping by the thread. I hope you will plan a visit to see my layout in the coming years. I will keep rocking! I actually bought another bag of plaster this week for some modifications - this makes bag number 35 - 35 x 100 = 3500 pounds of plaster. I think I will need to start expanding on the other side of the basement so the house doesn't start tipping.
What more mountains?
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on April 05, 2015, 11:14:29 AM
What more mountains?
Tom ;D
No - the new plaster is for some structures and a mountain valley that needs to be filled in before the trees are planted.
I'm continuing to make progress on the trestle - 2 more bents and all of the tall ones will be in. I also started to work on the wood retaining walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-070415223947.jpeg)
think this might end up as one of the signature scenes on your layout ....
vikas
WOW John, That is really over the top and is truly amazing. I love it. It makes my trestle look Rinkie-Dink . Keep up the good work.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1228.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee460%2FSam_Novello%2FContestphotos008-1.jpg&hash=aa19e5d0d7788da3918deb1372894898aa6ebaa2) (http://i1228.photobucket.com/albums/ee460/Sam_Novello/Contestphotos008-1.jpg)
Sam
Quote from: vikas chander on April 08, 2015, 09:17:02 AM
think this might end up as one of the signature scenes on your layout ....
vikas
Thanks vikas
I hope it will be one of many
Quote from: ollevon on April 08, 2015, 10:52:21 AM
WOW John, That is really over the top and is truly amazing. I love it. It makes my trestle look Rinkie-Dink . Keep up the good work.
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1228.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee460%2FSam_Novello%2FContestphotos008-1.jpg&hash=aa19e5d0d7788da3918deb1372894898aa6ebaa2) (http://i1228.photobucket.com/albums/ee460/Sam_Novello/Contestphotos008-1.jpg)
Sam
Sam
That is one nice looking scene. Nothing wrong with that trestle! Thanks for the kind words and for stopping by the thread.
The crew ran out of strip wood on the Trestle project this morning so I spent the day cutting and staining strip wood. This is batch number two. It is just amazing how much wood this project has gobbled up.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-080415201253.jpeg)
I'd be interested in hearing how you cut (that much) stripwood!
dave
Quote from: deemery on April 08, 2015, 10:48:16 PM
I'd be interested in hearing how you cut (that much) stripwood!
dave
Dave
I invested in a digital mini table saw and a jig for holding the small pieces of wood - and keeping my fingers out of the saw! I will take a picture and post it later today. The saw has paid for itself on this project alone.
John , is that the mini saw I see from Micro Mark? I often wonder how well it works. If that's the one, it seems to work well.
Sam
Quote from: ollevon on April 09, 2015, 03:34:22 PM
John , is that the mini saw I see from Micro Mark? I often wonder how well it works. If that's the one, it seems to work well.
Sam
Sam and Dave
Yes - here are a few pictures of my setup. I have also included closeups of the labels. I have had this setup for 6 months now and I'm happy with it. I plug my shop Vac into the back of the saw and it really keeps the dust down in the room. The grip surface on the holding fixture really helps - I would give this device a highly recommend. I use it on my full size table saw too. The digital readout is nice to get close but I still do test cuts and fine tone the setup with my digital micrometer before I start cutting. I'm not sure the digital readout is worth the extra money - but it does speed up the setup process.
So far I have used 3 blocks of 1.25x5x24 inch bass wood for all of the pieces for the trestle. I paid $8.36 a piece for the blocks so I have $25 dollars in wood in this seven foot long trestle. If you look back in this thread you can find a picture of the first batch of strip wood. Which was much larger than the second batch picture on this page of the thread. If you want you can count the pieces and figure out how much the strip wood would cost pre-cut. It took me about 3 hours to cut and stain the second batch of wood - so you can plug in what your time is worth and see if you can make a business case for the saw. I bought the saw for all the scratch building projects I have coming up - but I think it's fare to say that I paid for the saw on this first project. I enjoy cutting the wood myself so I'm happy.
Here are a few pictures of the setup - I may have posted these before but here they are again. Let me know if you have any questions.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-080415201253.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-080415201253.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-090415151016.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-090415151110.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-090415151110.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-090415183904.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-090415183904.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-090415190357.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-090415190357.jpeg)
FYI - I bought the Grip Fixture and the basswood from Rockler.
Here are a couple of progress pictures from today. I'm building the retaining walls and foundations to make the final push to the landform on the right side of the trestle.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-090415193434.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-090415193357.jpeg)
John...
Would you hurry up and finish that trestle............. I'm ready to see some serious iron go over it.
see ya
Bob
John,
That is just spectacular work! Big thumbs up!
John
Quote from: bparrish on April 09, 2015, 09:20:16 PM
John...
Would you hurry up and finish that trestle............. I'm ready to see some serious iron go over it.
see ya
Bob
Okay Bob
Why don't you bring that locomotive that your building over here for a test run. There are only a few miles between us - it may give me enough time to finish it.
Quote from: Cuse on April 09, 2015, 09:32:36 PM
John,
That is just spectacular work! Big thumbs up!
John
John
Thanks for the kind words and for stopping by the thread. I'm really looking forward to putting the finishing touches on this thing.
Hi,
wow,that is an fantastic looking bridge....Great work...
Cheers,Chris
Quote from: Twist67 on April 10, 2015, 01:32:52 AM
Hi,
wow,that is an fantastic looking bridge....Great work...
Cheers,Chris
Thanks Chris
John, 2 questions on your wood cutting setup:
1. Do you have an outfeed extension for the saw, to hold the long block of wood after it goes past the blade?
2. When you're moving wood through the saw, do you stop half-way and reposition the Gripper? Does that cause any burning or other problems where you stop the feed?
Thanks in advance!
dave
Quote from: deemery on April 10, 2015, 11:30:25 AM
John, 2 questions on your wood cutting setup:
1. Do you have an outfeed extension for the saw, to hold the long block of wood after it goes past the blade?
2. When you're moving wood through the saw, do you stop half-way and reposition the Gripper? Does that cause any burning or other problems where you stop the feed?
Thanks in advance!
dave
Dave
I usually cut the 24 inch long board in half so I don't have to deal with the extension. I have an extension but only used it to cut the long 18 inch strips for the trestle bents. I believe it will be very rare to have to cut strip wood that is longer than 12 inches.
I run the strip complete through the saw with one motion - no adjustment of the gripper. The gripper does a great job of holding the piece against the rip fence without me getting my fingers in harms way. I mid cut adjustment would result in a burn or uneven cut.
I hope this answers your questions -let me know if you have more.
One more (thanks for being so patient): What blade are you using?
dave
Quote from: deemery on April 10, 2015, 04:44:22 PM
One more (thanks for being so patient): What blade are you using?
dave
Dave
No problem - this is what the forums are for. For the wood for the trestle (relatively large by HO standards) I'm using the 24 tooth carbide blade with a .070 kerf. I can cut as fast as I want to go with this blade. I also have the fine tooth blades - 230 tooth with .025 and .020 kerf for cutting the small sizes of strip wood. You need to really slow down the feed rate to the blade for the fine cuts.
Thanks! I've been using the 24 tooth carbide for cross-cuts and the 160 tooth/.032 blade for the few rips I've done. I'm planning a significant 'wood machining' project, cutting the formers for a mansard roof, and maybe also cutting the dormers.
Have you tried cutting styrene with your saw?
dave
Quote from: deemery on April 10, 2015, 09:23:38 PM
Thanks! I've been using the 24 tooth carbide for cross-cuts and the 160 tooth/.032 blade for the few rips I've done. I'm planning a significant 'wood machining' project, cutting the formers for a mansard roof, and maybe also cutting the dormers.
Have you tried cutting styrene with your saw?
dave
Dave
I have not tried cutting styrene. The only plastic I have cut is to make the blade filler inserts for the table of the saw. You need to make one for each blade when you cut the small HO dimension pieces.
I worked on the retaining walls and foundations for the trestle bents today. Here is a progress picture.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-130415212948.jpeg)
My Grandson Aiden was here this weekend to inspect the progress on Mt. Aiden and the Mt. Aiden Trestle - we added some wildlife to the scene that will be popping up in the progress photographs in the next few days.
John,
The Mt. Aiden trestle and the background trees look fantastic.
T ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on April 14, 2015, 12:43:54 PM
John,
The Mt. Aiden trestle and the background trees look fantastic.
T ;D
Thanks Tom
I added the foundations for the last 8 bents today - getting close.
Here is a quick progress picture - the foundations for the last 8 bents on the Mt. Aiden Trestle are in and the glue is drying.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-140415213415.jpeg)
You can never have too many clamps. ;D
Quote from: UP Fan on April 14, 2015, 11:32:22 PM
You can never have too many clamps. ;D
You have that right Bob. I could have used a few more of these soldering clamps for this project.
Today, I started adding the smaller bents up the hill on the Mt. Aiden Trestle. I'm starting to also fill in the land forms in front of the trestle getting ready for the scenery. I also started clearing off my work benches getting ready to start building structures again. This summer I plan on splitting my time between building structures and laying track for the second level of the layout. Here is a progress picture.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-160415180225.jpeg)
You're beginning to see the light at the end of the trestle ;D
dave
Quote from: deemery on April 16, 2015, 06:24:15 PM
You're beginning to see the light at the end of the trestle ;D
dave
Dave
I can't wait until it's a train ;D . Thanks for stopping by the thread.
Beautiful work. Can't wait to see an iron horse traverse the trestle. :D
John, your making some great progress, Wish I could work that fast and be that good.
What are you using to make the cement footings under the bents?
Sam
Quote from: ollevon on April 16, 2015, 07:08:19 PM
John, your making some great progress, Wish I could work that fast and be that good.
What are you using to make the cement footings under the bents?
Sam
Hi Sam
The footings are hydrocal - I made a rubber mold using a piece of wood that I cut to the size and shape I wanted. I started out with three or four lengths but found that making them all the long dimension and then cutting them back, as need, works great. I posted some pictures of the process a few pages back when I was starting the trestle project.
Here is today's update photograph - I worked on the landforms in front of the trestle, and added some more bents. Also added bolt casting number 1000. I would say 95 % off them are in the trestle the rest are being used as clutter somewhere on the layout when they flew out of the tweezers. I will probably see those little casting in my sleep tonight.
I measured the trestle today - 88 inches or 7.3 feet.
I also lost the switch in my cutoff saw today so I rewired it with a house switch and electrical tape. It works so good I don't think I will order a new switch from Micro Mart - who knows if I could even get one?
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210415232258.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210415232258.jpeg)
You can tell this is a real build thread - the glue is still wet! The sand make a great base for the scenery materials to come.
One metric for success I use is "percentage of NBW castings actually installed" Anything over 75% is considered 'good'.
dave
Quote from: deemery on April 22, 2015, 09:28:43 AM
One metric for success I use is "percentage of NBW castings actually installed" Anything over 75% is considered 'good'.
dave
[/quote
Dave
Thanks for stopping by the thread. I sounds like I'm doing okay with my NBW percentage metric.
And building a trestle that long must be a measure of something....insanity or commitment.
Good job.
Quote from: martin.ojaste on April 23, 2015, 12:26:23 AM
And building a trestle that long must be a measure of something....insanity or commitment.
Good job.
Martin
Thanks for stopping by the thread. There may be a correlation between building model railroads and insanity, but it's okay because I'm having fun.
John and Martin...
Your most recent posts have reminded me of a Marx Bros. routine...........
So here's the contract. And after the reciting of a bunch of clause statements they announce that then there is the insanity clause.
I suppose that there is an insanity clause out there for all modelers............ But.........
As Chico observes........... "Everybody knows that there is no Santa Claus.
see ya
Bob
John,
Appears to me you are nuts for counting all of those successful and unsuccessful NUT and bolt installations! 8) [size=78%] [/size]
Quote from: BandOGuy on April 23, 2015, 01:58:54 PM
John,
Appears to me you are nuts for counting all of those successful and unsuccessful NUT and bolt installations! 8)
I think your right.
I should be able to get the last bent installed on this trestle today!
John..........
Well I'm bent on seeing some iron rolling over this great structure................
pun intended
What are friends for........?
see ya
Bob
The crew can now walk from one end to the other - It's no longer the bridge to nowhere! Now for some track, scenery, and weathering.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-240415175001.jpeg)
Congratulations!!!
dave
You should be very proud of yourself John. That was some outstanding work, and it looks fantastic.
Sam 8)
Quote from: bparrish on April 24, 2015, 12:31:52 PM
John..........
Well I'm bent on seeing some iron rolling over this great structure................
pun intended
What are friends for........?
see ya
Bob
Me too! It will not be long now.
Quote from: deemery on April 24, 2015, 07:12:53 PM
Congratulations!!!
dave
Thanks Dave - and thank for following along.
Quote from: ollevon on April 24, 2015, 07:23:38 PM
You should be very proud of yourself John. That was some outstanding work, and it looks fantastic.
Sam 8)
Sam
Thanks for the kind words - it's almost time to start a new project. I have some structures to build. I want to finish the scenery, and obviously the track work, in this area so I can say one area of the layout is complete.
WOW, I'm speechless
Eric Québec city
John,
What a project and what an incredible outcome !! the trestle looks most impressive and what a gateway to the rest of your amazing S&S railway .... I too am looking forward to the rails going down and motive power moving across that beautiful trestle. Should be quite the scene..
Thanks for sharing the build with us all.
--Paul
Trestle looks great. Watch out for fires from all that creosote when you run your first locomotive over. Jim
Incredible!
My vote for next EXPO is somewhere near this layout!
John
Hi there,
congratulations .......
fantastic work
Cheers,Chris
Eric, Paul, Jim, John, and Chris
Thanks for the kind words and for stopping by the thread. I will post some completion pictures in a few days after I get the final touches done.
If you happen to have some Gandy Dancer figures, doing some photos of 'rail being laid on the new trestle' could be fun!
dave
Today, I finished all the cross bracing and added the rest of the bolt castings to the trestle.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250415233431.jpeg)
Since this is a build thread, I thought I would add a few pictures of the process I'm going through to complete this scene. First the top of the trestle needed to be prepared for the track so I used Tom's sanding block method to make sure it was just right. The shop vac got a workout after this step.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250415233516.jpeg)
I also got out the A&I and touched up all of the cut ends and gave the foundations another shot. Tomorrow I plan on getting out the chalks for the final weathering.
Next - the final layer of sand was added before I add the ballast. Before I flood the benchwork with sand and glue I plug all the holes from the wiring and joints with clay. The paint on the ties and rails was also touched up with rail brown. The final weathering of the track will come after the ballast. The land forms are also covered with sand to help hold the scenery materials. After it was just right I soaked everything down with wet water and flooded it with glue at 4:1. Next step will be the ballast - then the scenery materials.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250415235141.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250415235141.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250415235106.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250415235106.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250415233553.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250415233553.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250415233714.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250415233714.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250415233633.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250415233633.jpeg)
I took a few in process pictures today of the scenery - I'm starting to add some of the talus materials that I collected out in Arizona. I like to use my camera as a modeling tool to see if the color and texture look the same in a photograph as they do to me standing in the room. What do you think?
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-270415194136.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-270415194341.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-270415194249.jpeg)
John,
Hmmm...is that a missing NBW on the four bent from the left? No in the second row down?
Just kidding! LOL.
An absolutley massive job that look fantastic!
Marty
One of the footers has a small crack in it...I'd start over
;) John
(truly amazing scenery, btw)
Wonderful trestle and scenery, John.
Jeff
Holy Moly.............. 8)
Quote from: martin.ojaste on April 28, 2015, 12:41:55 AM
John,
Hmmm...is that a missing NBW on the four bent from the left? No in the second row down?
Just kidding! LOL.
An absolutley massive job that look fantastic!
Marty
Marty
Thanks for the help! Wayne is coming over tomorrow to inspect - if there is one missing he will find it. Thanks for stopping by the thread and the kind words.
Quote from: Cuse on April 28, 2015, 06:34:33 AM
One of the footers has a small crack in it...I'd start over
;) John
(truly amazing scenery, btw)
Oh s**t! That does it - I shouldn't have used those low cost cement guys. Thanks for stopping by John.
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on April 28, 2015, 07:33:38 AM
Wonderful trestle and scenery, John.
Jeff
Thanks Jeff - so to answer your question from the EXPO - how am I going to make sure I have power all the way across this thing? I decided I'm going to wire jumpers across the rail joiners. Not soldier them because I don't want the track to have no place to go when it expands and contracts. Great question. The plan is to cut a little grove in the wood so the wire have some place to go and will not be visible.
Quote from: GPdemayo on April 28, 2015, 08:28:51 AM
Holy Moly.............. 8)
Thanks Greg - I will take that as a compliment. At least you didn't say I was crazy like one of our forum members.
Beautiful job on the trestle, John!
I've enjoyed watching this one progress, and like the way you 'interrupted' its progress with other jobs to keep the motivation high.
We've made it back to NZ fine (32 hours travel home - and Anzac day was non existent for us this year, as that was when we crossed the international date line). Both Michelle and I are finding ourselves falling asleep at 8pm in the evenings! Hopefully I'll find some energy for modelling this weekend! Besides - I have all those new Expo purchases to build! Thoughts of a garage extension are amplified at the moment, as realisation dawns that I simply do not have enough room on my layout to place them all!
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: mark dalrymple on April 29, 2015, 01:35:51 AM
Beautiful job on the trestle, John!
I've enjoyed watching this one progress, and like the way you 'interrupted' its progress with other jobs to keep the motivation high.
We've made it back to NZ fine (32 hours travel home - and Anzac day was non existent for us this year, as that was when we crossed the international date line). Both Michelle and I are finding ourselves falling asleep at 8pm in the evenings! Hopefully I'll find some energy for modelling this weekend! Besides - I have all those new Expo purchases to build! Thoughts of a garage extension are amplified at the moment, as realisation dawns that I simply do not have enough room on my layout to place them all!
Cheers, Mark.
Mark
Thanks for the kind words and it's great to hear you made it back safe. I understand the sleep issues from my working days and traveling overseas. It would take me 3 weeks to recover from a trip to Asia. As to the thoughts of expansion of your layout space, it happens to every model railroader that I have ever met. Howard Zane expanded his house three times so he could get more basement space for his trains. I have my eye on another section of our basement but have promised to finish the layout in the area I have before expanding.
Great job on the trestle as I followed along on your build . It looks fantastic !
Tom :)
Quote from: tom.boyd.125 on May 02, 2015, 06:47:07 PM
Great job on the trestle as I followed along on your build . It looks fantastic !
Tom :)
Tom
Thanks for the kind words and for following the thread. I will be spending the summer months working on the track work for the upper levels and building structures.
Another progress photograph, added more talus and trees. It is time to get out the static grass machine.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-030515085415.jpeg)
Quote from: S&S RR on April 28, 2015, 07:47:41 PM
Quote from: GPdemayo on April 28, 2015, 08:28:51 AM
Holy Moly.............. 8)
Thanks Greg - I will take that as a compliment. At least you didn't say I was crazy like one of our forum members.
Yes, definitely a compliment.....isn't it a given that we're all a little wacko to be doing what we're doing?
At least it keeps us off the streets and out of most trouble! ;D ;D ;D
Quote from: GPdemayo on May 03, 2015, 09:53:07 AM
Quote from: S&S RR on April 28, 2015, 07:47:41 PM
Quote from: GPdemayo on April 28, 2015, 08:28:51 AM
Holy Moly.............. 8)
Thanks Greg - I will take that as a compliment. At least you didn't say I was crazy like one of our forum members.
Yes, definitely a compliment.....isn't it a given that we're all a little wacko to be doing what we're doing?
At least it keeps us off the streets and out of most trouble! ;D ;D ;D
Greg
Thanks - we are a little wacko as my Grandma use to say. But it keeps use happy and that's what counts.
John,
You did a beautiful job on the trestle and the fact you cut your own stripwood is even more amazing. The trestle is in itself a work of art.
However, is it just my imagination or an optical illusion that the top of the trestle doesn't look level in a couple of places?
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on May 04, 2015, 06:48:29 PM
John,
You did a beautiful job on the trestle and the fact you cut your own stripwood is even more amazing. The trestle is in itself a work of art.
However, is it just my imagination or an optical illusion that the top of the trestle doesn't look level in a couple of places?
Tom ;D
Hi Tom
It is not an optical illusion - the trestle has a grade of 1.6 % and I also raised the outside edge by .030 of an inch. So what you see in the pictures is the two places where they blend together. I'm going to see if this works the way I expect it to when the track goes down. If not I will take it out with Tom's famous sanding block.
Whew, I was concerned but it appears I missed the 1.6% grade in an earlier post.
Beautiful job.
Tom ;D
Quote from: S&S RR on May 03, 2015, 10:13:01 PM
Quote from: GPdemayo on May 03, 2015, 09:53:07 AM
Quote from: S&S RR on April 28, 2015, 07:47:41 PM
Quote from: GPdemayo on April 28, 2015, 08:28:51 AM
Holy Moly.............. 8)
Thanks Greg - I will take that as a compliment. At least you didn't say I was crazy like one of our forum members.
Yes, definitely a compliment.....isn't it a given that we're all a little wacko to be doing what we're doing?
At least it keeps us off the streets and out of most trouble! ;D ;D ;D
Greg
Thanks - we are a little wacko as my Grandma use to say. But it keeps use happy and that's what counts.
Right................... ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on May 05, 2015, 08:16:17 AM
Whew, I was concerned but it appears I missed the 1.6% grade in an earlier post.
Beautiful job.
Tom ;D
Yes - I have been seeing it in the pictures for weeks - it is not as noticeable when you look at it with the naked eye. I will be getting some track on there in the next few weeks and that will be the true test.
Hi,
Fantastic work.
Cheers,Chris
Yesterday, Wayne Olson developed a great technique for moving track that had been glued down and ballasted. He wet it down which released the white glue and the shop vac did the rest. It worked great!
I have spent the last few days working on the scenery in front of Mt. Aiden. Along with adding trees, and scenery materials I'm building a wood tunnel portal and a timber retraining wall. Here are a couple build in progress pictures.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-100515090457.jpeg)
The timber portal liner.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-100515090531.jpeg)
This will have three tiers to it when completed.
This area is going to serve as the backdrop for a very special FSM kit - the one that usually just gets collected and very seldom built.
Another progress picture on the retaining wall and tunnel installation.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-160515094517.jpeg)
I started another batch of Pine trees yesterday and I promised someone at the EXPO that I would post a couple pictures of the process I use for the cedar shingle armatures. In the past, on this thread, I posted the pictures of the belt sander that I use to take the pieces of cedar shingle down to a tapered dowel.
The next step is to use a rasp to cut deep bark lines into the armature.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-160515094634.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-160515094634.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-160515094846.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-160515094846.jpeg)
I make these armatures in batches of about 100.
Next step is to add a nail to the base of each tree armature.
I forgot I'm keeping track of the time to make a batch of 100 - total for this batch so far is 2 hours. But who cares it's a hobby and I like the way these trees look on the layout.
In addition to the armatures I am also painting the Caspia with the olive camo paint. It takes about 15 minutes to fill the paint booth and paint. I will take some pictures on the next round of painting.
Excellent job of staining the wood and building that wood tunnel portal and retaining wall.
Tom ;)
WOW John, you're a tree making machine. Nice texture on the trunks. Great tip using the rasp.
Quote from: S&S RR on May 10, 2015, 09:13:53 AM
This area is going to serve as the backdrop for a very special FSM kit - the one that usually just gets collected and very seldom built.
Still teasin' us, ain'tcha??
Quote from: tom.boyd.125 on May 16, 2015, 01:57:32 PM
Excellent job of staining the wood and building that wood tunnel portal and retaining wall.
Tom ;)
Thanks for the kind words Tom - I like the look of the board on board A&I stain. I'm learning that if I stain the wood large batches and stack it on the work bench in different orientations I get a much larger verity of light and dark looks.
Quote from: UP Fan on May 16, 2015, 05:11:20 PM
WOW John, you're a tree making machine. Nice texture on the trunks. Great tip using the rasp.
Thanks For stopping by Bob. Yes big batches of trees are required for this layout. I'm preparing for spending lots of time in my gazebo this summer adding the Caspia branches to pine trees.
Quote from: gnatshop on May 16, 2015, 08:03:58 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on May 10, 2015, 09:13:53 AM
This area is going to serve as the backdrop for a very special FSM kit - the one that usually just gets collected and very seldom built.
Still teasin' us, ain'tcha??
David good to see you back - and thanks for reminding me I was supposed to add a picture to that post. I'll add some pictures next week but I'm trying to find a way to add FSM's Wilfred J. Brambell in front of the retaining wall. It is going to take some kit bashing so it's a project under study.
This thread is getting to long to find anything - it's time to add an index. I will be taking care of that chore this week.
Quote from: S&S RR on December 20, 2013, 10:27:49 PM
New home of the Superior & Seattle Railroad Build Thread
Index to the thread added 5/19/15. I will update this every time we add a few pages so we can go back and find different topics when necessary.
INDEX
Page 1 Changing forums - the benchwork
Page 2 Overview and Status in March of 2014
Page 3 A look back at the Benchwork and Paster work on the mountains,
Painting the Plaster work
The Photo Back Drops
Making Aspen Trees
Page 4 Making Pine Trees
Preparing the Talus Materials
Page 5 Prototype Photographs
Page 6 Prototype Photographs
Control Panel
Page 7 Layout Diagram "original plan"
Roundhouse Photographs
The Stone Roundhouse Build - start
Page 8 Stone Roundhouse Build - the walls
Page 9 Stone Roundhouse Build - the Roof
Page 10 Stone Roundhouse Build - Painting
Page 11 Laying more track
Planning the town of Sellios
Page 12 Testing track
Page 13 First Runs - lower track
Page 14 Benchwork and Town layout - Sellios
Page 15 Benchwork and Town layout - Sellios
Page 16 Track work in Sellios
Page 17 Planning Structure Placement - Sellios
Page 18 Logo for the Superior & Seattle Railroad
Page 19 Cedar Shingle Pine Tree armatures
Modeling in the Summer
Page 20 Roofing on the Stone Roundhouse
Page 21 Doors on the Stone Roundhouse
Page 22 More plaster work
Page 23 Installing the DCC System
Page 24 DCC System Discussion
Page 25 DCC System Installation
Page 26 DCC System Installation
Page 27 More track installation
Page 28 Track Testing
Page 29 Door production for the Stone Roundhouse
Page 30 Ballasting The Eagles Nest Yard
Page 31 Ballasting The Eagles Nest Yard
Page 32 Changes - moving mountains
Page 33 Adding some talus materials
Page 34 Stone Roundhouse Build - Tar Paper Roof
Page 35 Stone Roundhouse Build - Doors, Windows, Trim
Page 36 Planting Aspen Trees,
prototype pictures Aspen Trees
Page 37 Stone Roundhouse Build Trim, Front Stone Work
Pictures of Mountains with Fall Color
Page 38 The view through "Wayne's hole"
Page 39 Some overall room photographs of the layout
Page 40 Stone Roundhouse Build - Painting the trim
Page 41 Stone Roundhouse Build - Installing the Windows
Page 42 The A&I tube
Page 43 Stone Roundhouse Build - Painting the Roof
Page 44 Stone Roundhouse Build - Final pictures on the workbench
Stone Roundhouse Build - Moving and installing on the layout
Page 45 Stone Roundhouse Build - Installation pictures
Page 46 Discussion of storage on the benchwork
Page 47 New - flex shaft rotary tool
Page 48 The Eagles Nest Yard
Page 49 Kit discussion
Page 50 Scenery on Mt. Aiden
Page 51 Mt. Aiden Trestle Build - bents
Page 52 Testing coloring for the Trestle
Page 53 Start of scenery on Mt. Aiden
Page 54 Progress pictures scenery on Mt. Aiden
Page 55 Surveying for the Trestle
Stripwood for the Mt. Aiden Trestle
Casting the footings for the Mt. Aiden Trestle
Page 56 Changes in the Mountains
Page 57 Coloring the trestle footings
Page 58 Mt. Aiden Scenery progress pictures
Page 59 Setting the footings for the Mt. Aiden Trestle
Page 60 Mt. Aiden Trestle Build first Bents
Page 61 Staining Stripwood
Page 62 Mt. Aiden Trestle Build
Page 63 Mt. Aiden Trestle Build
Page 64 Trestle Build progress pictures
Page 65 Trestle Build progress pictures
Page 66 Painting Bolt Castings
Page 67 Installing Bolt Castings - Mt. Aiden Trestle
Page 68 Cutting more strip wood
Dealing with impatient forum members
Page 69 Adding retaining walls
Page 70 Trestle Build progress pictures
Page 71 Counting nut and bolt castings
Page 72 Mt. Aiden Trestle - the finishing process
Page 73 Adding Scenery to Mt. Aiden
Page 74 Building retaining wall for Mt. Aiden
This is the index to this thread that will always be on page 1 of the thread. I will cross-reference it every 10 pages or so and try to keep it updated.
Here is an update photograph of the Pine Tree Armature process. Today I finished the bark on the batch of armatures and also added a nail in the end of each one to help in planting and handling through the rest of the process. Next, I will drill the holes for the Caspia Branches.
Total time on this batch is now 3.25 hours.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190515203718.jpeg)
I added the last row of timbers to the second tier of the retaining walls in front of Mt. Aiden. Now to fill them in and add the third and final tier.
Also made some real progress in the design changes that I need to make to Brambell's to make it fit in this spot.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-200515211826.jpeg)
The pine tree armature's started to get the holes drilled today. I use a number 50 drill in my flex shaft rotary tool to drill the holes. It takes less than a minute per armature to add the holes. I have used the piece of 2 x 4 as a backup for many, many, holes. It is starting to look like a piece of swiss cheese.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-200515211727.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-200515211629.jpeg)
It will be nice to see a build of Brambell's, John. I don't believe I have ever seen one before. Nice to see a few site changes too. Its always good to see something a little different.
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: mark dalrymple on May 21, 2015, 12:51:56 AM
It will be nice to see a build of Brambell's, John. I don't believe I have ever seen one before. Nice to see a few site changes too. Its always good to see something a little different.
Cheers, Mark.
Mark
Thanks for the encouraging words - I don't remember seeing a build thread on Brambell's, either. I will post pictures on this thread as I proceed with the build. I also plan to build a companion Machine Shop for the Stone Roundhouse and FSM's Chippy Hollow Hardware in the coming months.
Hi,
you made fantastic work to that scene.....wow.....
Cheers,Chris
John,
The tree trunks look great!
Tom ;D
Quote from: Twist67 on May 21, 2015, 10:23:09 AM
Hi,
you made fantastic work to that scene.....wow.....
Cheers,Chris
Chris
Thanks for the kind words and for stopping by the thread.
Quote from: ACL1504 on May 21, 2015, 01:39:49 PM
John,
The tree trunks look great!
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom
I have many, many, many, of them to make. The Aspen trees look so much better when you frame them with the pines. I'm looking forward to spending some quality time out in my gazebo making trees.
The tree armatures have now been drilled and put through the A&I bath and are ready for the Caspia Branches. In this picture the armatures on the right have been through a 3 tsp. to the pint mixture of A&I the ones on the left 4 TSP. to the pint A&I.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-230515221816.jpeg)
In the foreground of this picture are some brown cassia branches that I also put through the 3 tsp. A&I bath. If you look back in this thread you will see that the dead pine trees in the pictures are way to brown. I was using the brown cassia in it's natural color. I went back and looked at my prototype pictures because I didn't like how they looked. Real dead pine trees tend to be darker if they are in the forest and lighter gray if they are out in the open where they get some sun.
Here is a picture of the brown dead trees after the A&I treatment. I like these better. I will be treating the cassia before I added it to the armatures for future dead trees.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-230515221848.jpeg)
I will plant these trees back in about the same locations as before and will do a before and after photograph.
The retaining wall is also coming along - here is a progress photograph.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-230515221916.jpeg)
There's a lot of work in that wall. But, the results are great. The NBW's are a nice touch.
Quote from: UP Fan on May 24, 2015, 01:11:05 AM
There's a lot of work in that wall. But, the results are great. The NBW's are a nice touch.
Bob
Thanks for the kind words - yes the nut and bolt castings make a big difference. I have a few more to add once I get the top tier completed. Thanks for stopping by the thread.
Today marks the official start of my Wilfred J. Brambell FSM kit number 205 build. I cut the hole in the benchwork for the foam base I'm going to use for the build, and I opened the box to get started with the directions and the list of modifications I will need to make to fit the space.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250515103323.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250515103323.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250515103920.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250515103920.jpeg)
Here is a few pictures of what's in the box:
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250515103848.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250515103813.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250515103737.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250515103737.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250515103552.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250515103519.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250515103449.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250515103412.jpeg)
WoW .... that certainly is a LOT of STUFF!!!! ;D
John,
That looks like a great location for a fantastic kit. I had the Brambell kit but gave it to Reading Bob for all the kits he has been building for me.
I think I got the better half of the bargin. 8)
Tom ;D
OK, you fessed up!!
Now the FUN begins - we're gonna be watchin' you as you build it!!!
You are gonna let us peep in, ain'tcha?? ??? ??? ???
Quote from: Donato on May 25, 2015, 12:15:41 PM
WoW .... that certainly is a LOT of STUFF!!!! ;D
Yes it is! I will have a few hours in painting all those castings. Thanks for stopping by the thread.
Quote from: ACL1504 on May 25, 2015, 12:24:25 PM
John,
That looks like a great location for a fantastic kit. I had the Brambell kit but gave it to Reading Bob for all the kits he has been building for me.
I think I got the better half of the bargin. 8)
Tom ;D
Tom
Bob does great work - I think you did.
I will have to move some things around to make it fit in this spot, but I think it will work. Thanks for stopping by the thread.
Quote from: gnatshop on May 25, 2015, 06:59:03 PM
OK, you fessed up!!
Now the FUN begins - we're gonna be watchin' you as you build it!!!
You are gonna let us peep in, ain'tcha?? ??? ??? ???
David
Good to hear from you. Yes - I'm always interested in having you peep in. I have been waiting for awhile to get started on this build - finally found the right place for it. This will be one of four builds that I will have going at the same time so it will take awhile. I primed the castings for Chippy Hollow today too.
I started cutting the foam base for Brambell's - this site is great for this kit because of the elevation change but I have a hidden track leading to a storage yard that runs underneath this area. So far it looks like I will be able to create a foam tunnel underneath the diorama and still have plenty of room for the below grade details of the kit. Here are a few pictures of the start of the process.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250515211232.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250515211302.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250515211333.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250515211405.jpeg)
If you look close you can see the benchwork from my old layout. You just never know what you will find when you dig a hole in these mountains.
I will be changing the site plan from the traditional Brambell's kit build. The original has a 36x24 base with a river flowing around the site. This build will not have the river and will be longer and narrower. Details to follow.
Quote from: S&S RR on May 25, 2015, 09:22:02 PM
................If you look close you can see the benchwork from my old layout. You just never know what you will find when you dig a hole in these mountains.
Centuries from now archeologists will be amazed at what they'll find ..... :o ;D
Quote from: Donato on May 26, 2015, 09:44:30 AM
Quote from: S&S RR on May 25, 2015, 09:22:02 PM
................If you look close you can see the benchwork from my old layout. You just never know what you will find when you dig a hole in these mountains.
Centuries from now archeologists will be amazed at what they'll find ..... :o ;D
Donato
Yes they will - I usually find some of the tools I have lost.
I have spent a considerable amount of time the last few days playing with different layout scenarios for the Brambell build. My available space is long and skinny as compared to the one George developed for the kit. I will post pictures and sketches in the coming days as the different scenarios develop. As a first step to this process, I copied the pictures, along with dimensions of the various buildings, that George provided in the directions and pasted them in my design log book. This allows me to take it on the road with me and play with different designs as I have time. My design log book goes with me in the boat for when the fish are not biting.
Glad to see a boy and his coloring book having fun on the water again!!
Quote from: gnatshop on May 31, 2015, 12:45:35 AM
Glad to see a boy and his coloring book having fun on the water again!!
David
It's all about having the right toys!
As part of the redesign of the layout of Branbell's I took the following pictures from the directions provided by George in the kit. Sorry about the quality of the photographs but I took the pictures with my iPhone off the directions which gave off a glare. I will be referring back to these pictures as I describe the planned changes from Georges design to make this fit in my location.
This is the front view (Picture 1) looking East on the S&S RR, the mainline will run in front changing grade as it runs from left to right.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-020615223621.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-020615223621.jpeg)
Picture 1
Picture 2: Overview, Looking South West on the S&S RR.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-020615223547.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-020615223547.jpeg)
Picture 3: Overview looking North West on the S&S RR.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-020615224055.jpeg)
Picture 3
Picture 4: Overview looking North on the S&S RR.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-020615223827.jpeg)
Picture 4
Picture 5: Abandoned tracks on the South side of the Warehouse.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-020615223702.jpeg)
Picture 5
As I finalize the placement of the structures to fit in my location, I'm also starting the build. I have already determined that I will need a few more casting for my design in the pit area than George provided in the kit. And I also plan on a kit bash of the warehouse in another area of the layout. So, I'm making a mold from the castings provided with the kit. Step one, put on the Frank Baker recommended white cotton gloves that sit in the drawer where I keep my hot glue gun - right on top to remind me to put on the gloves before I get my first burn. These things work great - thanks again Frank for the tip.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-020615230817.jpeg)
Here is a picture of the castings in the mold box.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-020615231001.jpeg)
This is like a Saturday afternoon 'cliff hanger' at your neighborhood movie theater! Can't wait til the pour is made. Is that 1/4" artist's foam hot glued together for your molding box?
This will be fun to see.
Quote from: UP Fan on June 03, 2015, 03:04:35 AM
This is like a Saturday afternoon 'cliff hanger' at your neighborhood movie theater! Can't wait til the pour is made. Is that 1/4" artist's foam hot glued together for your molding box?
Bob
I'm having fun with this build! Yes it is 1/4 inch artists foam - I get a bunch of it when it goes on sale for less than a dollar a sheet. Thanks for following along.
Quote from: ACL1504 on June 03, 2015, 07:13:48 AM
This will be fun to see.
Tom
Thanks for stopping by the thread - yes I think this will look good in this location with the required modifications.
Neat structure.....I'll be watching also.
Great work with the trestle, retaining walls and the surrounding area John. 8)
Quote from: GPdemayo on June 03, 2015, 08:26:07 AM
Neat structure.....I'll be watching also.
Great work with the trestle, retaining walls and the surrounding area John. 8)
Greg
Thanks for the kind words and for stopping by the thread.
This is gonna be fun to follow for a couple of reasons. Like Tom mentioned earlier he gifted me the WJB kit for building a few kits for him (oh..the horror of it all, I get to build some great craftsman kits that I'd otherwise never get the opportunity to build) so I'm interested in the build of the kit. Also, I was just talking to my brother about trying my hand at making molds and casting things. I've never done that but I'm getting the itch to try it. My brother casts bullets, which is how our discussion got started. Anyway, count me in amongst those that will be following along. :D :D
I'm here watching too, John.
Its interesting to see some of the close up shots. I don't believe I have ever seen close ups of this kit.
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: ReadingBob on June 03, 2015, 02:30:40 PM
This is gonna be fun to follow for a couple of reasons. Like Tom mentioned earlier he gifted me the WJB kit for building a few kits for him (oh..the horror of it all, I get to build some great craftsman kits that I'd otherwise never get the opportunity to build) so I'm interested in the build of the kit. Also, I was just talking to my brother about trying my hand at making molds and casting things. I've never done that but I'm getting the itch to try it. My brother casts bullets, which is how our discussion got started. Anyway, count me in amongst those that will be following along. :D :D
Bob
Great to have you following along on the build. The castings are easy to do - I will post detailed pictures of the process I use. I always make molds of the wall castings from FSM kits - for a number of reasons - if I screw one up - for kit bash projects in the future - to change the design to meet my needs. The only drawback is that the rubber I use is not cheap. I typically use hydrocal to make castings from the molds - but the resin works well too. Again, the cost of the resin is much more than the hydrocal.
Quote from: mark dalrymple on June 03, 2015, 03:01:44 PM
I'm here watching too, John.
Its interesting to see some of the close up shots. I don't believe I have ever seen close ups of this kit.
Cheers, Mark.
Mark
Thanks for following along - I will be taking lots of pictures of the build as I go. This kit has amazing details. I spent a couple hours just looking at the castings. George has hundreds of hours in making the molds for these castings.
Yesterday, I forgot to mention that the short concrete wall castings on the right in this picture have detail on both sides. I will also be making a small mold with the castings on edge to capture the detail on both sides after the is mold is complete.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-020615231001.jpeg)
Today, I made considerable progress in building the base for the Brambell's build. I also finalized the design concept in my log book and decided to mark it up on base. Since this is a build thread here are a couple pages from my log book which will give you and idea of my design process. I started with all of the pictures George provided of his design. I looked up all the dimensions of the structures and key features and then started the process of fitting and shaping things to my available space. The design log books give me a way to take the hobby on the road and have served as a valuable tool as I build this layout.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-040615200437.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-040615200437.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-040615200612.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-040615200612.jpeg)
I also finished the buildup that allows for the trains to pass underneath to a hidden yard area and also allows for the pit area of the Brambell's build without interference. The scrap wood stash took a hit to find all the right thicknesses and sizes of wood. This base will be a hybrid of foam and plywood to make all the dimensions work.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-040615201004.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-040615200900.jpeg)
The piece that bridges the hidden track will also serve as the surface of the pit area for Brambell's.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-040615200711.jpeg)
After all of the layers were glued in place and the correct height was achieved for the pit and the siding track it was time to test and make sure everything was still level. It passed the bubble level test and the digital test. It's ready for the top layer.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-040615200807.jpeg)
This is a picture of the top foam layer with the 5/8 spacers in place that take it to the height of the siding track and provide for the correct depth to the pit. I need to finish the foam and the build up on the right side and complete the mark-up to confirm the design. Once I have completed the mark-up I will walk through the changes that I'm making form the standard build of the kit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-040615214936.jpeg)
I completed the pour of the latex mold. Here is a sequence of pictures that shows the process. The key to this is to make sure you have equal parts of A and B - I use clear plastic cups to measure each component then I pour them into a third cup for mixing. The other potential mistake is not mix the two components throughly. Once I'm happy with the mix I slowly power it into the mold box - then gently shake the table to get the air bubbles out and let it dry. After it's dry just cut away the artist foam box and retrieve the original castings and carefully cut away the flash.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-060615114038.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-060615114038.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-060615114132.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-060615114132.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-060615114243.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-060615114243.jpeg)
You can really see the 3 dimensional depth of the features on George's castings when you look at the mold. The bright castings tend to wash out the features in the photographs.
I also completed the foam/plywood base for the build. Here is a picture of the base in place on the layout. This kit is a natural for this site with the elevation change. You can also see where I need more castings for the wall along the mainline.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-060615114103.jpeg)
The next step for the Brambell's build will be to finish the markup and then move the base to my workbench to start the build. I have one more mold to make and then the castings will go to the paint booth for primer.
John,
Do you coat the metal castings with anything prior to pouring the mold ?
I will watch your Brambell build, sold mine long time ago :'(
Tom
Quote from: tom.boyd.125 on June 06, 2015, 01:42:46 PM
John,
Do you coat the metal castings with anything prior to pouring the mold ?
I will watch your Brambell build, sold mine long time ago :'(
Tom
Tom
No - I don't coat the castings. I have never had a problem with release with metal. George does have some of the small details in backdraft so you pull small pieces of latex that stick in the details. If you look real close you can see a couple that I need to pick out before I paint the castings. I do use a release agent when I cast plastic parts - the latex likes to stick to some types of plastic enough to tear the mold.
The detail of these castings is amazing and George has really perfected his casting process. Thanks for following along - this one is going to take a long time.
Sorry if I missed this earlier: Are you casting the parts themselves in resin or plaster?
dave
Looking good, John. Its very interesting to watch your working process.
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: deemery on June 06, 2015, 04:45:43 PM
Sorry if I missed this earlier: Are you casting the parts themselves in resin or plaster?
dave
Dave
I will use plaster for stone walls - I just like working with it better than resin. I have made parts with resin and maybe someday I will get to the point where I like the look as well as plaster. I have a number of kits in the my build queue that have resin castings so I need to perfect my techniques for resin.
Quote from: mark dalrymple on June 06, 2015, 05:18:09 PM
Looking good, John. Its very interesting to watch your working process.
Cheers, Mark.
Mark
I think my process is to have lots of things going at once. I sure don't get bored. Thanks for following along.
Just to keep things clear, you referred to a 'latex mold' but the bottles shown are Room Temperature Vulcanizing silicone rubber.
Quote from: jbvb on June 07, 2015, 06:58:54 AM
Just to keep things clear, you referred to a 'latex mold' but the bottles shown are Room Temperature Vulcanizing silicone rubber.
James
You are correct - some of the first materials I used for mold making were called "latex" so the name has stuck with me. I have been buying my mold making materials from Micro Mark lately - I have tried three different silicone rubber types with similar results. They are classified by mold strength and curing time.
Holy cow, what a thread!
Nice work!
Quote from: LongHornCaddy on June 08, 2015, 12:00:09 AM
Holy cow, what a thread!
Nice work!
Thanks for the kind words and for stopping by the thread. Great to see you on the forum.
I returned from my fishing tip all ready to work on the layout. I had lots of time to come up with new ideas for the layout because the fish didn't bother me. Wayne Olson was also along on the trip so we got some quality Model Railroad BSing done between casts. We also solved all of the worlds problems if only we were in charge.
Quote from: S&S RR on June 11, 2015, 07:44:51 PM
I returned from my fishing tip all ready to work on the layout. I had lots of time to come up with new ideas for the layout because the fish didn't bother me. Wayne Olson was also along on the trip so we got some quality Model Railroad BSing done between casts. We also solved all of the worlds problems if only we were in charge.
John, Model BSing is the best kind of problem solving. Obvoiusly, the bureaucrats in the nations capital don't do it. Oh wait, they do in front of the cameras.
Tom ;D
So Tom..........
So are you saying that model related BSing is productive and congressional BSing is not............
Unbelievably insightful.
Thanx
Bob
Quote from: bparrish on June 12, 2015, 04:18:31 PM
So Tom..........
So are you saying that model related BSing is productive and congressional BSing is not............
Unbelievably insightful.
Thanx
Bob
Yes, I am!
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on June 12, 2015, 05:01:08 PM
Quote from: bparrish on June 12, 2015, 04:18:31 PM
So Tom..........
So are you saying that model related BSing is productive and congressional BSing is not............
Unbelievably insightful.
Thanx Bob
Yes, I am!
Tom ;D
ELECT a Ledbetter to Congress -
They'll teach'um proper BS'in'!!!
Dave..............
A Ledbetter in congress............... that absolutely staggers the imagination.
BSing would rise to a completely new level...........
This would surely be marked as a high tide marking on every bridge abutment in the country.
COOL ! ! ! ! !
see ya
Bob
Quote from: bparrish on June 12, 2015, 09:34:47 PM
Dave..............
A Ledbetter in congress............... that absolutely staggers the imagination.
BSing would rise to a completely new level...........
This would surely be marked as a high tide marking on every bridge abutment in the country.
COOL ! ! ! ! !
see ya
Bob
It couldn't hurt .... any more than we're hurtin' now. :-\
Tom, Bob, David, and Donato
I agree that the BSing is a great way of solving problems on the railroad. The problem is when you start paying someone to do the BSing - that's when it all breaks down and you get what we have in Washington. They even think they have the power to change the definition of words. Take progress for example. Okay enough of that - back to the railroad.
So it's time to get back to building the layout after our BSing. I made a mold to capture the detail on both sides of the concrete wall castings from Brambell's - because of the site layout I will need to extend the wall so I'm making some extra castings. Here is a picture of the mold box.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-140615194322.jpeg)
This a picture after the pour - I made the mistake of not gluing the metal castings to the foam board before pouring the rubber and one of the castings fell over during the pour. No real harm done - I will just have one casting with one sided detail and the rest with two sided detail. Here is a picture of the mold box after the pour.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-140615194409.jpeg)
Here is the rubber mold after the metal castings have been pulled and the flashing cleaned up.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-140615195502.jpeg)
Finally, for tonight, we have a picture of the molds after the first test casting with hydrocal. I mixed up enough plaster to fill both molds in a disposable cup. I plan on making some resin castings with the molds tomorrow.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-140615194506.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-140615194506.jpeg)
I started painting the castings for the Brambell's build today. This is a photograph of my first attempt for the wall pit wall castings. I want them to look like they were made from the stones in the area. This casting is a plaster casting from the mold I made. I painted it with earth paint first - then used 6 different colors of pan pastels from there. What do you think?
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-160615161327.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-160615161401.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-160615161428.jpeg)
John,
The walls look great.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on June 16, 2015, 06:34:34 PM
John,
The walls look great.
Tom ;D
Tom
Thanks for the kind words - a few more details with the chalks and I think I'm ready to go with this. The details in George's castings are just amazing. Keep in mind that this is duplicate casting from one of my molds.
Thanks again for stopping by the thread.
The wall matches your local stone color, that's a great match.
dave
Quote from: deemery on June 16, 2015, 09:15:31 PM
The wall matches your local stone color, that's a great match.
dave
Dave
Thanks - I'm finding myself using less and less paint and more chalks and pigments. I plan on giving the plaster rocks in the foreground of the layout some detailing with chalks I like the results so much.
Quote from: S&S RR on June 17, 2015, 10:04:11 AM
[...
Dave
Thanks - I'm finding myself using less and less paint and more chalks and pigments. I plan on giving the plaster rocks in the foreground of the layout some detailing with chalks I like the results so much.
My 'style' for these is to spray prime with the mortar color, then sponge paint the basic rock color. That gives me a consistent sealed work surface and gets a lot of color on cheaply and quickly. Then I'll work pigments and chalks to bring out details.
dave
Quote from: deemery on June 17, 2015, 10:07:18 AM
Quote from: S&S RR on June 17, 2015, 10:04:11 AM
[...
Dave
Thanks - I'm finding myself using less and less paint and more chalks and pigments. I plan on giving the plaster rocks in the foreground of the layout some detailing with chalks I like the results so much.
My 'style' for these is to prime with the mortar color, then sponge paint the basic rock color. That gives me a consistent sealed work surface and gets a lot of color on cheaply and quickly. Then I'll work pigments and chalks to bring out details.
dave
I sealed the plaster castings with Krylon Camouflage Ultra-flat Earth Paint, put skipped the sponge painting and when't right to the pigments. Today, I'm going to try this process with resin castings, but I can tell you at this point I like the plaster castings better than the resin. This may just be me - but I think they look better. I will post pictures when I get something to show.
I agree with Dave that the color match for your rocks is spot on. Nice work.
Jeff
John - the colour match to the local rocks is great.
I wonder whether the top lintel should be concrete too? It looks too uniform to be stone. Also - can you get any mortar lines in the brickwork?
Looking great, cheers, Mark.
Quote from: mark dalrymple on June 17, 2015, 04:16:11 PM
John - the colour match to the local rocks is great.
I wonder whether the top lintel should be concrete too? It looks too uniform to be stone. Also - can you get any mortar lines in the brickwork?
Looking great, cheers, Mark.
If not concrete, then granite....
dave
Jeff,Mark, and Dave
Thanks for the kind words, and yes the top lintel should also be concrete. This was a waste casting and I was trying to decide if I wanted the lintels to be stone or concrete. George also has some bolts cast in that need to be painted rust. Every time I work with one of the FSM castings I am amazed at the detail. The mortar is very deep on this casting so I'm going to try using grey primer as my base coat on the next one. Stay tuned for test two. And thanks for stopping by the thread and commenting.
Hi,
wow....fantastic work on those walls.....great....
Cheers,Chris
Nice looking walls and nice looking trees in the background!
Quote from: Twist67 on June 18, 2015, 09:43:47 AM
Hi,
wow....fantastic work on those walls.....great....
Cheers,Chris
Chris
Thanks for the kind words and for stopping by the thread. I think one more test casting and it will be time to start building this structure.
Quote from: LongHornCaddy on June 18, 2015, 10:56:38 AM
Nice looking walls and nice looking trees in the background!
Thanks for the kind words - I'm currently working on another batch of the pine trees. The layout needs 100's of them.
I returned from my cabin with a box full of pine trees today. Obviously, the fish were not biting. It has been raining so much here that the river looks like a flowing mud slide. I don't think the fish can see three inches the water is so dark. I enjoy getting up their even if the fishing is bad and I can always enjoy my model railroading hobby wherever I am. Tomorrow it's back to painting casting for the Brambell's build -between 1:1 jobs.
My 1:1 gazebo roof project and my "job that replenishes the supply of EXPO bucks" has kept me busy and out of the layout room the last couple days. I'm making a few casting pours so I have castings to work with on my next rain delay.
I found a way to multitask some layout work with my cedar shingle roof on my 1:1 gazebo - I 'm cutting the blanks for pine tree armatures at the same time I cut the bevel in the shingles for the ridge cap. The rain delays are dragging this roofing job out way to long.
I'm still working on the outside house repairs - so the layout is not getting any attention again this week. It looks like I have a couple more weeks of outside work to do before I can get back to the layout. The good news is that the weather is finally cooperating, so I can make good progress on the 1:1 work.
John,
1:1 has kept me slowed down as well. The good news is that nothing is lost by me not being in the man cave.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on July 07, 2015, 08:48:27 AM
John,
1:1 has kept me slowed down as well. The good news is that nothing is lost by me not being in the man cave.
Tom ;D
It is amazing how 1:1 projects can pile up. I need a couple more weeks of working on the house and then it will be back to the layout. I spend lots of time while I'm working on the house thinking about my next moves on the layout.
I have been working on F&SM pictures during the rain delays in my 1:1 projects - it is amazing how many ideas that project has generated for my layout. Can't wait to get back to working on the layout. I hope to be back at it next week.
Today is cleanup day from all the 1:1 projects. The new cedar roof on the gazebo resulted in 100's of pine tree armatures. I hope to spend many hours in the gazebo yet this summer making pine trees for the layout. I'm very happy it is time to get back to building the layout. ;D
I spent the day swapping out the remaining fluorescent and incandescent light bulbs with LED's. I really like the lighting from the LED's. I learned a hard lesson with the ceiling fluorescent bulbs in the area behind the trestle. Changing bulbs was a pain in more ways than one. I can tell you that if the LED's ever burn out up there I will replace the lighting in that area with more LED spots from the valence.
So I completed my list of outside projects and layout room improvement projects so now it's back to laying track and building structures and scenery. Tomorrow, I plan on finishing the scenery behind the trestle and completing the land forms needed on the back side of Mt. Aiden. I will post some pictures when I have something to show.
What color temp LEDs did you get?
dave
Quote from: deemery on July 30, 2015, 10:00:49 AM
What color temp LEDs did you get?
dave
Hi Dave
I tried a few different bulbs but I liked the way 4000 - 5000 bulbs looked for the in ceiling lights. To my eye they looked the most like natural sun light. For the valiance lights I used two different bulbs - a day light bulb (manufactures designation) that is at 5000, and I also used some 2700 soft light bulbs for spots.
I would be interested in anyone else experience with this.
When I get the section completed behind the trestle I will take some photographs and we can compare to the previous pictures with fluorescent celling lights and incandesce valance bulbs.
Quote from: S&S RR on July 30, 2015, 10:28:42 AM
Quote from: deemery on July 30, 2015, 10:00:49 AM
What color temp LEDs did you get?
dave
Hi Dave
I tried a few different bulbs but I liked the way 4000 - 5000 bulbs looked for the in ceiling lights. To my eye they looked the most like natural sun light. For the valiance lights I used two different bulbs - a day light bulb (manufactures designation) that is at 5000, and I also used some 2700 soft light bulbs for spots.
I would be interested in anyone else experience with this.
My older fluorescents were a combo of Chroma 60 and regular bulbs. My replacement LEDs are all 4000. I -think- there's a little less blue blush to the lighting. More importantly, I'm happy with the 4000k look. I still have one place with fluorescents, a pair of 2' tubes. I probably should replace those, but there are MANY more important things to do, like work on the roundhouse underneath them :-) :-)
dave
Quote from: deemery on July 30, 2015, 01:08:26 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on July 30, 2015, 10:28:42 AM
Quote from: deemery on July 30, 2015, 10:00:49 AM
What color temp LEDs did you get?
dave
Hi Dave
I tried a few different bulbs but I liked the way 4000 - 5000 bulbs looked for the in ceiling lights. To my eye they looked the most like natural sun light. For the valiance lights I used two different bulbs - a day light bulb (manufactures designation) that is at 5000, and I also used some 2700 soft light bulbs for spots.
I would be interested in anyone else experience with this.
My older fluorescents were a combo of Chroma 60 and regular bulbs. My replacement LEDs are all 4000. I -think- there's a little less blue blush to the lighting. More importantly, I'm happy with the 4000k look. I still have one place with fluorescents, a pair of 2' tubes. I probably should replace those, but there are MANY more important things to do, like work on the roundhouse underneath them :-) :-)
dave
Thanks for the input Dave
Looks like we are finding the same thing. The softer light does appear blue. I know how expensive it is to replace the bulbs with the LED's but don't wait until you have scenery and structures under the fixtures. I have had a back ache for two days from replacing the bulbs over the trestle. I actually decided to stop after replacing two of the four bulbs and just removed the florescent bulbs.
Today I added the plaster over the foam underlayment on the back side of Mt. Aiden. You will also notice that I removed a number of trees from the mountainside to gain access to the overhead ceiling light fixture. I wanted to install LED light bulbs into this fixture before the final scenery was in place. I also want to add another area of aspen trees to this scene so removing the pines trees served two purposes. Tomorrow I will paint the plaster and add the ground cover. Then it will be time to plant more trees and finish the mountain scenery.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-300715190603.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-300715190640.jpeg)
I also started another project today - the reconditioning, and preparation for installation, of the sawmill scene from my old layout. This scene consists of three FSM kits. I built this about 10 or 15 years ago before static grass and some of the new scenery materials so it's back on my workbench for refurbishing before I install it. I also needed to change the track plan and make the base smaller. So I used the George Sellios method of getting out the saw and cutting the base on a finished diorama. This was not easy for me to do but it went very well. Only a few casting shook loose so only a few minutes of repair glueing and it will be good as new with a smaller base. Now for the refurbishing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-300715190820.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-300715190820.jpeg)
Before the saw.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-300715190907.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-300715190907.jpeg)
After the saw.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-300715190941.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-300715190941.jpeg)
After some cleanup.
Just fantastic.... I' m always amaze by your layout John, can't wait to see more
Eric Québec city
I'm so happy to hear that Mr. Sellios approves. I have an FSM depot, built by Reading Bob, gifted by ACL Tom... The whole time I was trimming the base to fit, all I could think was "they will never talk to me again if they could see how violently I am attacking this jewel". I honestly questioned my worthiness in their brotherhood of craftsman kits.I switched tools a dozen times trying to find the least damaging method to trimming the base. There's just no other way to do it...Thanks for the comforting words John (and George).
John
Quote from: EricQuebec on July 30, 2015, 09:01:33 PM
Just fantastic.... I' m always amaze by your layout John, can't wait to see more
Eric Québec city
Thanks for the kind works Eric and thanks for following the thread. I hope to make considerable progress during the next few weeks.
Quote from: Cuse on July 30, 2015, 10:00:33 PM
I'm so happy to hear that Mr. Sellios approves. I have an FSM depot, built by Reading Bob, gifted by ACL Tom... The whole time I was trimming the base to fit, all I could think was "they will never talk to me again if they could see how violently I am attacking this jewel". I honestly questioned my worthiness in their brotherhood of craftsman kits.I switched tools a dozen times trying to find the least damaging method to trimming the base. There's just no other way to do it...Thanks for the comforting words John (and George).
John
John
The thought of this process was much worse than actually doing it. I think there are about 3 castings that need to be reglued and now it will work in it's new home on this layout. The key was the right saw blade to minimize the vibration. I also clamped it to the work bench that has rocks and hydrocal on the lower shelves to help with damping the vibration.
Well done, John - and nice to see you back working on the layout.
I'm guilty of using an electric planner to 'thin' plaster wall castings! It worked and was amazingly quick and easy - but I wouldn't recommended it!
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: mark dalrymple on July 31, 2015, 02:06:52 AM
Well done, John - and nice to see you back working on the layout.
I'm guilty of using an electric planner to 'thin' plaster wall castings! It worked and was amazingly quick and easy - but I wouldn't recommended it!
Cheers, Mark.
Mark
Thanks - It's great to be back working on the layout.
I hope you were outside when you thinned the plaster castings.
Today the plaster on the back side of Mt. Aiden was painted green, and then covered with ground foam.
I also got a good start on adding the trees. Wayne Olson is coming over tomorrow to be my eyes on the ground to help locate just the right position for each of the trees. I will either run out of trees or complete the forest on Mt. Aiden.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-310715210933.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-310715211018.jpeg)
The aspen trees will be yellow at the higher elevations and green as we work our way down the mountain.
As I work my way down the Mountain side, I plan to paint the remaining rocks and then build a trestle (only about 2 feet long this time). After those tasks are complete the bridge that I'm crawling on will be removed. I'm looking forward to seeing a steam engine cross the two trestles with the mountain in the background.
The white foam in the foreground of the second picture above, complete fooled my iPhone and turned the area behind them very dark. The lighting really isn't that bad in this area. I will take some pictures tomorrow and see if the problem goes away. Maybe I will need to add some lighting?
Well today I ran out of trees before I ran out of Mountain but progress was made. Here are a few pictures of the work in progress.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-010815183741.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-010815183811.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-010815183837.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-010815183909.jpeg)
I removed the bridge I was working on to make some modifications. I will be putting it back in place to do the finish work behind the trestle, paint the rock castings, and build the trestle. It sure is nice to be making progress on the layout again. Those 1:1 projects were getting very old.
I started some work on the sawmill complex today. Here is a picture of what I was starting with.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-030815181620.jpeg)
I wanted to add sawdust that was more to scale. The chips were to large that I used 15 years ago. I also want to add static grass in place of the ground foam.
Here are a couple pictures of the work in progress - I added the static grass - this is the late summer blend - little too green so I will be adding more brown. The sawdust that I added is much finer. It is also new so the camera decided to make it much brighter and lighter in color. I believe some A&I will take care of that.
Here is where I left off for the evening.
The pictures are very helpful in getting the colors right. A camera exaggerates the light and dark contrasts.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-030815181446.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-030815181415.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-030815181415.jpeg)
More pictures when I add the changes.
I also took a picture of a tool that I'm finding very useful on my work bench for working on these dioramas.
I like to get the base off the workbench so I can get to the wiring and also see the details better. These bench cookies are just the ticket. They hold things where you put them.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-030815181544.jpeg)
I bought these - but it would be easy to make a set. The key is the rubber material they used - it grips the bench surface give a very stable platform.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-030815181544.jpeg)
Today, I'm working on the layout design out on my fishing boat. I caught a few bass early but now the fish are leaving me alone and I'm laying out the structures that I plan to build for the Eagles Nest yard. Is this what they call multi tasking?
Your scene at Mt. Aiden looks a little bit like the one in the guys living room in "Close Encounters". ;)
Quote from: GPdemayo on August 07, 2015, 08:33:55 AM
Your scene at Mt. Aiden looks a little bit like the one in the guys living room in "Close Encounters". ;)
It's been a long time since I saw that one. I need to watch it again.
Quote from: S&S RR on August 07, 2015, 09:20:54 AM
Quote from: GPdemayo on August 07, 2015, 08:33:55 AM
Your scene at Mt. Aiden looks a little bit like the one in the guys living room in "Close Encounters". ;)
It's been a long time since I saw that one. I need to watch it again.
Then you better run out to Costco and buy a car load of instant mashed potatoes!!! ::)
Quote from: Donato on August 07, 2015, 12:25:55 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on August 07, 2015, 09:20:54 AM
Quote from: GPdemayo on August 07, 2015, 08:33:55 AM
Your scene at Mt. Aiden looks a little bit like the one in the guys living room in "Close Encounters". ;)
It's been a long time since I saw that one. I need to watch it again.
Then you better run out to Costco and buy a car load of instant mashed potatoes!!! ::)
You know the words to the theme from "Close Encounters"?
"Don't eat yellow snow."
dave
Quote from: deemery on August 07, 2015, 01:04:19 PM
Quote from: Donato on August 07, 2015, 12:25:55 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on August 07, 2015, 09:20:54 AM
Quote from: GPdemayo on August 07, 2015, 08:33:55 AM
Your scene at Mt. Aiden looks a little bit like the one in the guys living room in "Close Encounters". ;)
It's been a long time since I saw that one. I need to watch it again.
Then you better run out to Costco and buy a car load of instant mashed potatoes!!! ::)
You know the words to the theme from "Close Encounters"?
"Don't eat yellow snow."
dave
Wasn't that Frank Zappa.
And then came Smoke on the Water.
We are getting old!
It's time to get back to modeling - I setup the workbench for the Brambell's Build. The instruction have been hung, the templets are under the glass plate and I started cleaning the castings. I will be finishing the FSM Sandhouse kit that I started a few years back on one bench and Brambell's on the other. I also made a few changes to the base that I started for Brambell's to give the engines a little more room on the hidden track that will run underneath (see page ). The foam needed to be trimmed for the track roadbed for the siding track. I will take some updated pictures after tomorrow's progress.
Here are a couple pictures of my workbenches before I mess them all up with stuff.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-100815152956.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-100815153148.jpeg)
Well, now that I look at the pictures I guess they are already messed up with stuff.
So it's my first day back on the Brambell's build and I'm already making changes. George supplies a piece of wood for modeling a poured concrete wall on the end of the pit (see first picture). This wall will be right up in front, because of the viewing angle, so I'm going to replace it with a stone wall that I made from resign. The resign wall was made in one of the silicone rubber models that we made a few pages back in this thread. As soon as I get the castings sized for my location and cleaned up - the next step is to prime them with earth color paint.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-100815153032.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-100815153032.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-100815153106.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-100815153106.jpeg)
The black thing in the photographs is the attachment from my shop vac that was getting rid of all the foam pieces I was generating.
We all need the necessay black thing - some of us nore often than others!!
Quote from: gnatshop on August 11, 2015, 01:28:41 AM
We all need the necessay black thing - some of us nore often than others!!
You got that right.
I spent most of the day today working on the Brambell's build. I'm planing on using three different casting materials for this build to see if I can make them all look the same on the build. The structure itself and back retain walls will be George's metal castings. The additional rock wall castings that I need to complete the scene will be resin on the right side and plaster on the left. We will see how this goes - I may have to finally make the chose between plaster and resin to make it look right.
I poured more resin castings today and started the fitting process. Here is a picture of the walls that I have completed so far. I have a fair amount of sanding and cutting to do before they will be ready for the primer.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-110815204123.jpeg)
Here is the resin - just after I poured it.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-110815204026.jpeg)
I also started getting those wonderful FSM castings out of the box and ready for primer. I can spend hours looking at the details George has carved into his original molds. Can you find the rat?
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-110815204227.jpeg)
Looks awesome John , keep up the good work
Sam
One of the (many) things that is striking about your scenery is the depth. Most people wouldn't "waste" so much real estate for trees and rocks behind the foreground trackage. But it is SO impressive and realistic. Really majestic presentation of the real thing.
John
Quote from: ollevon on August 11, 2015, 08:56:21 PM
Looks awesome John , keep up the good work
Sam
Sam
Thanks for the kind words. I plan on keeping at it - I'm having fun.
Quote from: Cuse on August 11, 2015, 08:56:52 PM
One of the (many) things that is striking about your scenery is the depth. Most people wouldn't "waste" so much real estate for trees and rocks behind the foreground trackage. But it is SO impressive and realistic. Really majestic presentation of the real thing.
John
John
Thanks for the kind words. One of the reasons I started over on my layout is I wanted to create scenes with depth. I think the structures and the trains look SO much better with depth in the scene. Thanks for following along - we will see if I can make it look the way I want it to.
For the past couple of days I have been making castings and fitting them to the base board. I will have some pictures when this process is complete. I want to paint all of the castings that make up the base assembly in one batch to help get the same results with the coloring. As I mentioned above, I'm trying something new using three different materials for the wall castings so this will be interesting.
Your rat is on the top right of the lower right casting. I shouldn't have said "cast"ing, it brings back unpleasant memories. 8) 8) 8) 8)
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on August 13, 2015, 10:52:47 AM
Your rat is on the top right of the lower right casting. I shouldn't have said "cast"ing, it brings back unpleasant memories. 8) 8) 8) 8)
Tom ;D
Tom
Thanks for stopping by and finding the rat. Sorry to unintentionally bring up a bad subject.
Quote from: S&S RR on August 13, 2015, 11:22:19 AM
Quote from: ACL1504 on August 13, 2015, 10:52:47 AM
Your rat is on the top right of the lower right casting. I shouldn't have said "cast"ing, it brings back unpleasant memories. 8) 8) 8) 8)
Tom ;D
Tom
Thanks for stopping by and finding the rat. Sorry to unintentionally bring up a bad subject.
John,
It's all good my friend, I'm happy just to be able to get back to light work on the builds.
Tom ;D
Field test report - on my "molding process". We are not going to use the other word for awhile - Tom is on the mend.
I bought some 30 minute cure time rubber from Micro-Mart. It was on sale! I have used lots bottles of the 4 hour cure product without a problem. So as you can see from the pictures the 30 minute cure didn't cut it. All the detail pulled off with the original c****** when I tried to get it out of the mold. I should have thrown the bottles away but decided to try one more time and got the same results see picture 4. It took two hours to restore the wall section in the first two pictures. Although it did fill the air bubbles in the original c*******. Since this is a build thread I think it's important to report our failures along with the successes - let me know if anyone has had better luck with this. I just looked at the Micro-Mart catalog and only saw the 4 hour cure available.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-130815113616.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-130815113616.jpeg)
This is after I had been working at it for awhile and decided to post some pictures.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-130815113642.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-130815113642.jpeg)
The good stuff. The bottles of the 30 minute cure were already in the trash. I placed them there with proper sendoff.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-130815113717.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-130815113717.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-130815113747.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-130815113747.jpeg)
The original c***** that I pulled out of trial two.
I'm going to try the new mold material that you heat in the microwave for the few plaster castings that I need to complete the Brambell's build. My first attempt with some small resin parts was successful.
Well the mold lasted for one part and then I tried to wash it before the next casting and it pulled apart. So I dug into my casting box and found plaster castings that I could cut to fit and went with them for this build. The air bubbles made their way to the outside surface on the back of the mold away from the part surface, but did not flow away like they do with the other casting mold materials I have used.
I will try this material again when I only need one or maybe two castings from a mold. For now, it's on with the build.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-200815145940.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-200815145940.jpeg)
Here is a picture of the base for the build with all of the extra castings fitted and ready for the paint booth. The base will now be moved to my workbench.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-200815145448.jpeg)
The casting are in the paint booth. I'm using Krylon Sand as my primer coat. Three different materials for the castings - the metal casting from George's kit, plaster and resin castings for the retaining wall. I'm very interested to see if I will be able to tell the difference after painting.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210815100404.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210815100431.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210815100503.jpeg)
I started painting the wall castings today. I'm using pastel chalks for their natural colors and textures.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-240815181450.jpeg)
First step was to add the motor grey in the cracks.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-240815181617.jpeg)
Step two was to remove some of the grey color from the surfaces of the stones leaving it in the cracks using an eraser.
Next, I started coloring the brick.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-240815181736.jpeg)
First with the brick red and then then the rusty metal plate covering the original hole for the coal chute.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-240815181819.jpeg)
Followed by the wood blanks above and below.
Then I started coloring the individual stones that make up the walls. Here are three progress photographs.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-240815181853.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-240815181853.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-240815181927.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-240815181927.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-240815181927.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-240815181927.jpeg)
This is were I left off for the day. I like to let these thinks sit overnight and come back the next day to see if I want to make changes before I move on.
Today, I finished coloring the castings for the wall and did a test fit on the base in the final location on the layout. I wanted some pictures in the layou lighting and with some added lighting for photographs. Here are the progress shots to test the coloring.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-270815174254.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-270815174353.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-270815174201.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-270815174117.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-270815173951.jpeg)
John,
Looking good, looking very good!
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on August 28, 2015, 05:09:57 PM
John,
Looking good, looking very good!
Tom ;D
Yepper. What he said! :D
Quote from: ACL1504 on August 28, 2015, 05:09:57 PM
John,
Looking good, looking very good!
Tom ;D
Thanks for the kind words Tom. I'm really starting to like this pigment technique for coloring castings. The colors are right and the texture is far superior to anything I have used in the past. Thanks again for following along.
Nice job so far on the stones and the brickwork.
Jeff
Way to go John.....that's one heck of a scene! 8)
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on August 29, 2015, 12:00:43 AM
Nice job so far on the stones and the brickwork.
Jeff
Thanks Jeff - I'm putting my list together for the Narrow Gauge Convention.
Quote from: GPdemayo on August 29, 2015, 09:06:03 AM
Way to go John.....that's one heck of a scene! 8)
Thanks for the kind words Greg. It's great to be to the point where I can start doing the detail work again.
Very nice John. Another epic scenic spot! I predict George Sellios will be putting together a thread about YOUR layout ;D
John
Quote from: Cuse on August 29, 2015, 05:57:43 PM
Very nice John. Another epic scenic spot! I predict George Sellios will be putting together a thread about YOUR layout ;D
John
John
Thanks for the kind words. Interesting prediction - I had to laugh because George still writes all of the instructions for his kits with a manual typewriter. He does watch the threads - he comments to me on what I have posted when I call him - but he rarely posts.
Today, I finished mounting the first batch of metal castings on the sticks that I use to paint them. They are now ready for the paint booth and a coat of earth colored primer. This kit has an amazing number of castings - this is not all of them.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-290815204449.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-290815204449.jpeg)
Well today all those castings made their way through the paint booth. I also removed the base from the layout and set it up on my workbench for the build. I also made some test pieces for the wall colors on the main warehouse. George recommends driftwood stain with Coach Green stain (a 50/50 mix of the paint and dio-sol. I have the Floquil paint but I'm test painting with chalk pigments and alcohol. I'm really starting to like this technique and will probably switch to this method for most of my painting. I will post pictures tomorrow after it dries.
Here are a couple of pictures of my test samples for color. I'm adding green pigments over a driftwood "Kaki" prime coat. When I get back from the Narrow Gauge Convention I will make a final decision on the color scheme. This is very close to the colors that George Sellios picked for the kit. My stonework is more brown because I wanted to make it look like they used stones from the area.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-310815154445.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-310815154445.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-310815154514.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-310815154514.jpeg)
I'm back working on the layout after a break for the Narrow Gauge Convention. The Convention was great with lots of idea generating layouts to visit, and the contest room was very inspirational. Karl Allison's O scale Engine house build was one of the best models I have seen in over 15 years of attending these conventions. I took hundreds of pictures which I will share as time permits. Every casting on this model was a work of art. Here is a small sample:
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-070915153951.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-070915153951.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-070915153928.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-070915153928.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-070915153859.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-070915153859.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-070915153824.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-070915153824.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-070915155058.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-070915153750.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-070915153750.jpeg)
The close up of those windows blows my mind! - but then again, that rusted out wheelbarrow looks pretty convincing too!
Looking forward to more progress on your layout, John.
Cheers, Mark.
Hi ,
Wow that´s one awesome build on those pictures. So much details to look at....Awesome.
thanks for sharing,
Cheers,Chris
Amazing, especially the small stuff like the sledge hammer in the last photo.
Mark, Chris, and Jan
Thanks for stopping by the thread and I'm glad you enjoyed the pictures of Karl's work. They give us all something to strive for.
Looks like a lot of layout. :)
Jeff
Today's progress on the Brambell's build - started to detail the door and window castings. This first picture is a before and after.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-080915164314.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-080915164314.jpeg)
I also started to add the green color and the nail holes to the wood walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-080915164349.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-080915164349.jpeg)
Primer of Kaki only.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-080915164439.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-080915164439.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-080915164415.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-080915164415.jpeg)
The nail holes were added with the new wheel that gives you 2 holes per board and a much smaller dent. Much closer to scale.
John,
Who's nail impression tool did you use on your build and the photo's of Karl Allison's O scale engine house are amazing !
Quote from: tom.boyd.125 on September 09, 2015, 02:04:03 PM
John,
Who's nail impression tool did you use on your build and the photo's of Karl Allison's O scale engine house are amazing !
Hi Tom
Thanks for stopping by the thread. Here is a picture of the wheel in the handle of my exacto knife along with the information on where to get it.
I picked mine up from Karl at the Narrow Gauge Convention - he gets them from Ireland (see package). It comes with 4 different wheels, there are two different stiles but they have the same spacing for the holes. I'm using the .75 mm wheel right now which is giving me two nails holes per clap board. I actually bought one of each stile because I wanted one for each work bench - otherwise I spend all my time looking for my tools. This is the first job that I have used it on, but so far I like it. Much improved over the pounce wheel I was using and much faster than using a probe.
Let me know if you have any questions.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-090915153159.jpeg)
As for Karl's engine house - the challenge is to see how close we can come to his castings in HO.
I received a package from George Sellios today!
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-090915152224.jpeg)
I started assembling the walls for the warehouse on the Brambell's build today.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-090915154626.jpeg)
Hi,
great looking structure you´re working on. Paint and weathering looks fine. I have a tool like the one your´re using,too. Never used it in H0 but made some nailholes in 1:25 with it and it worked fine.
Cheers,Chris
Quote from: Twist67 on September 10, 2015, 09:05:46 AM
Hi,
great looking structure you´re working on. Paint and weathering looks fine. I have a tool like the one your´re using,too. Never used it in H0 but made some nailholes in 1:25 with it and it worked fine.
Cheers,Chris
Chris
Thanks for the kind words and for stopping by the thread. I'm happy with the nail tool so far - it makes the nail holes much closer to scale than the pounce wheel that I was using.
I decided to take a couple hours and make a couple work stations for my workbench. Things were getting way to cluttered and I was loosing time looking for my tools. Here is what I came up with - made use of a few pieces of wood that were under the layout.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-120915231835.jpeg)
Weathering station - I used a couple ceramic tiles that were left over from the kitchen remodeling project.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-120915231455.jpeg)
If I can just learn to put the tools back in there place.
I'm making progress on the Brambell's build on two fronts. I'm getting close to finishing the walls for the warehouse. Also, lengthened the pit area by three inches in the base and made another test fit of the castings. Next step is to glue them in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-120915231957.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-120915231913.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-120915232958.jpeg)
Looking good, John.
If you think you have a problem with finding things you should see the state of my modelling room! No - on second thoughts I might just keep that to myself!
Cheers, Mark.
Looks great job. Nice job on the colors!
John
Great stone work and I love that green color for the woodwork.
Quote from: mark dalrymple on September 13, 2015, 12:44:04 AM
Looking good, John.
If you think you have a problem with finding things you should see the state of my modelling room! No - on second thoughts I might just keep that to myself!
Cheers, Mark.
Mark
Thanks for the kind words - it is amazing how many tools I can pile on the workbench when I'm working.
Quote from: Cuse on September 13, 2015, 08:09:29 AM
Looks great job. Nice job on the colors!
John
John
Thanks - the more I work with the pigments the better I like them. I think I should sell my stock of floquil paints on eBay. Another nice think about the chalks and pigments is that they don't dry up in the bottle. Great shelf life.
Quote from: Janbouli on September 13, 2015, 08:13:32 AM
Great stone work and I love that green color for the woodwork.
Jan
Thanks for the kind words - The walls will need some touchup work when I get them assembled but it is very easy with the chalks and pigments.
Quote from: S&S RR on September 12, 2015, 11:24:45 PM
I decided to take a couple hours and make a couple work stations for my workbench. Things were getting way to cluttered and I was loosing time looking for my tools. Here is what I came up with - made use of a few pieces of wood that were under the layout.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-120915231835.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-120915231835.jpeg)
Weathering station - I used a couple ceramic tiles that were left over from the kitchen remodeling project.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-120915231455.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-120915231455.jpeg)
If I can just learn to put the tools back in there place.
John,
First off, I have greatly enjoyed following along with your S&S RR progress and builds along the way. And really like the modifications and future location of your version of Brambell's.
I also have taken the opportunity to make certain tools and modeling boards to help with the process and organization of our building and artistic efforts.
So I have to inquire as to how you like the Vallejo pigments and how you have been using them ?? And secondly, what is going on with the Vallejo Model Air bottles that appear to be labeled to match either the Floquil or PollyS colors?? Inquiring minds and all that...
Thanks in advance and looking forward to following along with your future progress.
--Paul
Quote from: PaulS on September 15, 2015, 09:14:02 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on September 12, 2015, 11:24:45 PM
I decided to take a couple hours and make a couple work stations for my workbench. Things were getting way to cluttered and I was loosing time looking for my tools. Here is what I came up with - made use of a few pieces of wood that were under the layout.
Paul
Thanks for the kind words and following along with the thread. This is my first build with the Vallejo pigments and I
like the fine texture. And depth of color so far. I recently switched from using mostly floquil paints to acrylics and pastel chalks.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-120915231835.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-120915231835.jpeg)
I like the results so much that I'm re painting many of the castings.
Weathering station - I used a couple ceramic tiles that were left over from the kitchen remodeling project.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-120915231455.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-120915231455.jpeg)
If I can just learn to put the tools back in there place.
John,
First off, I have greatly enjoyed following along with your S&S RR progress and builds along the way. And really like the modifications and future location of your version of Brambell's.
I also have taken the opportunity to make certain tools and modeling boards to help with the process and organization of our building and artistic efforts.
So I have to inquire as to how you like the Vallejo pigments and how you have been using them ?? And secondly, what is going on with the Vallejo Model Air bottles that appear to be labeled to match either the Floquil or PollyS colors?? Inquiring minds and all that...
Thanks in advance and looking forward to following along with your future progress.
--Paul
Paul
I'm not sure what happened with my last post but the bottom line is that I'm real happy with the
results with using the pigments and chalks - in fact I'm repainting the castings for a Chippy Hollow build that I had started a few years ago.
Thanks for the feedback John,much appreciated and I will be following along with the S&S journey ....
With regards to the Vallejo Model Air paints, it appears that you have found a conversion (or did it yourself) between those and the Floquil / PollyS paints. Is that on-line somewhere ??
Thanks and happy modeling,
--Paul
Paul, Micro Mark sells these http://www.micromark.com/paint-for-brush-and-spray-application.html
Jeff
Got it, Thanks Jeff !! Sets me on a path to experiment a little ...
Appreciate it...
Now back to more of the S&S goings on, take it away John ...
John,
Great job on Brambells. I have the PanPastel sets I purchased while at the Expo. I used them to weather the roof on the Delwin's build. I'll be updating that thread in a few days.
Tom ;D
I have been doing lots of experimenting with pan pastels, chalks, and the pigments, I'm finding that a coat of paint first to prime either the plaster, resin, or metal casting and then going to the pigments works great. I am switching between applying them dry and with alcohol depending on the affect I'm looking for. The alcohol with the pigments works just like the old floquil and diosol washes.
I used three types of castings for the walls shown above, plaster, resin, and George's metal castings. They were all painted the same way and I can't tell them apart on the model.
John,
All the walls look great to me.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on September 20, 2015, 09:03:37 AM
John,
All the walls look great to me.
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom - I'm enjoying learning new techniques that I think look better.
I have switch to working on some design work for a few days. I need to get the location of the track work right in the Horseshoe Mountain. Area before I can continue with the track laying. I will soon be switching back and forth between structure building and new track work and scenery. I like having multiple projects going - it may not work real well for following a build thread but it's the way I like to work.
John,
I have been using the pastels for the last several years. They work great for getting that actually aged look on your castings. I to prime the castings with an acrylic paint and use acrylics for any additional basic colors. iWork on a piece of glass which is like a painters palette fo me. It is very easy to mix the paint dusts together and with alcohol. You can take the various shades of rust, Browns and Greys and apply to you castings easily. Sometimes I just apply a little grey dust to tone down those bright colors on your model and castings.
On metal castings, I will use the replacement product for Blacken It. I will then use a polishing wheel to polish the wear parts an then dry brush a little acrylic to the non wear parts.
The pastels work fantastic on strip wood for that aging look. There are some very fine examples of this on the forum such as Mike Englers recent mine build.
There is a whole lot of more information on this on Sierra west scale model' s web site
Steve
Also, the Stoney Creek DVD has a lot of good advice on using Pan Pastels: http://www.stoneycreekdesigns.com/dvd.html (http://www.stoneycreekdesigns.com/dvd.html)
dave
Quote from: sdrees on September 24, 2015, 03:33:39 PM
John,
I have been using the pastels for the last several years. They work great for getting that actually aged look on your castings. I to prime the castings with an acrylic paint and use acrylics for any additional basic colors. iWork on a piece of glass which is like a painters palette fo me. It is very easy to mix the paint dusts together and with alcohol. You can take the various shades of rust, Browns and Greys and apply to you castings easily. Sometimes I just apply a little grey dust to tone down those bright colors on your model and castings.
On metal castings, I will use the replacement product for Blacken It. I will then use a polishing wheel to polish the wear parts an then dry brush a little acrylic to the non wear parts.
The pastels work fantastic on strip wood for that aging look. There are some very fine examples of this on the forum such as Mike Englers recent mine build.
There is a whole lot of more information on this on Sierra west scale model' s web site
Steve
Steve
Thanks for the input and for stopping by the thread. I'm in the process of testing many different techniques - which usually results in a process that I feel most comfortable. After so many years of floquil paints and A&I I'm really enjoying this new technique. Brett and Carl Addison have convinced me that this is the way to go.
Quote from: deemery on September 24, 2015, 04:53:07 PM
Also, the Stoney Creek DVD has a lot of good advice on using Pan Pastels: http://www.stoneycreekdesigns.com/dvd.html (http://www.stoneycreekdesigns.com/dvd.html)
dave
Dave
Thanks for the input - I actually bought a copy of this DVD a couple years ago which got me started with the pan pastels. It is an excellent reference. It real gets you started and then the what if I do this - just starts happening. The very nice thing is that you can erase anything that doesn't work out.
My work on the layout has been limited to some design work the last few weeks - I'm looking forward to getting back to the Brambell's build this weekend.
Today, I'm back working on the layout. I took a three week break to take the CEO of the Superior & Seattle on a trip to England, Whales, Scotland and Ireland. We had a great trip, saw all the sites, and visited more than enough gift shops (actually I had enough of the gift shops the first morning of the first day). I spent lots of time doing some design work for the layout while the boss visited the gift shops.
I did get one afternoon of train related time and visited the National Train Museum in York, England. Thanks to Erieman for the recommendation. They had a great display of a cutaway view of a steam engine entitled "How a steam engine works" that was the highlight of the visit. If you find yourself in York it's just down the street from all the gift shops and very well worth a visit.
Time to glue some wall castings on the Brambell's build!
Quote from: S&S RR on October 05, 2015, 01:41:11 PM
Today, I'm back working on the layout. I took a three week break to take the CEO of the Superior & Seattle on a trip to England, Whales, Scotland and Ireland. We had a great trip, saw all the sites, and visited more than enough gift shops (actually I had enough of the gift shops the first morning of the first day). I spent lots of time doing some design work for the layout while the boss visited the gift shops.
I did get one afternoon of train related time and visited the National Train Museum in York, England. Thanks to Erieman for the recommendation. They had a great display of a cutaway view of a steam engine entitled "How a steam engine works" that was the highlight of the visit. If you find yourself in York it's just down the street from all the gift shops and very well worth a visit.
Time to glue some wall castings on the Brambell's build!
I venture to guess you DID NOT accompany the CEO into those aforementioned gift shops .... so you DID wimp out?!?!? :o
Quote from: Donato on October 05, 2015, 02:54:15 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on October 05, 2015, 01:41:11 PM
Today, I'm back working on the layout. I took a three week break to take the CEO of the Superior & Seattle on a trip to England, Whales, Scotland and Ireland. We had a great trip, saw all the sites, and visited more than enough gift shops (actually I had enough of the gift shops the first morning of the first day). I spent lots of time doing some design work for the layout while the boss visited the gift shops.
I did get one afternoon of train related time and visited the National Train Museum in York, England. Thanks to Erieman for the recommendation. They had a great display of a cutaway view of a steam engine entitled "How a steam engine works" that was the highlight of the visit. If you find yourself in York it's just down the street from all the gift shops and very well worth a visit.
Time to glue some wall castings on the Brambell's build!
I venture to guess you DID NOT accompany the CEO into those aforementioned gift shops .... so you DID wimp out?!?!? :o
I went in a couple - didn't find anything I wanted to buy. No yellow or red boxes. ;)
Quote from: S&S RR on October 05, 2015, 06:56:33 PM
Quote from: Donato on October 05, 2015, 02:54:15 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on October 05, 2015, 01:41:11 PM
Today, I'm back working on the layout. I took a three week break to take the CEO of the Superior & Seattle on a trip to England, Whales, Scotland and Ireland. We had a great trip, saw all the sites, and visited more than enough gift shops (actually I had enough of the gift shops the first morning of the first day). I spent lots of time doing some design work for the layout while the boss visited the gift shops.
I did get one afternoon of train related time and visited the National Train Museum in York, England. Thanks to Erieman for the recommendation. They had a great display of a cutaway view of a steam engine entitled "How a steam engine works" that was the highlight of the visit. If you find yourself in York it's just down the street from all the gift shops and very well worth a visit.
Time to glue some wall castings on the Brambell's build!
I venture to guess you DID NOT accompany the CEO into those aforementioned gift shops .... so you DID wimp out?!?!? :o
I went in a couple - didn't find anything I wanted to buy. No yellow or red boxes. ;)
When we went to Wales and rode the Ffestiniog, I ended up coming home with a bunch of 009 kits and a renewed interest in HOn30. (http://www.parksidedundas.co.uk/acatalog/copy_of_PARKSIDE_DUNDAS__ROLLING_STOCK_KITS_.html )
dave
Quote from: deemery on October 05, 2015, 07:46:02 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on October 05, 2015, 06:56:33 PM
Quote from: Donato on October 05, 2015, 02:54:15 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on October 05, 2015, 01:41:11 PM
Today, I'm back working on the layout. I took a three week break to take the CEO of the Superior & Seattle on a trip to England, Whales, Scotland and Ireland. We had a great trip, saw all the sites, and visited more than enough gift shops (actually I had enough of the gift shops the first morning of the first day). I spent lots of time doing some design work for the layout while the boss visited the gift shops.
I did get one afternoon of train related time and visited the National Train Museum in York, England. Thanks to Erieman for the recommendation. They had a great display of a cutaway view of a steam engine entitled "How a steam engine works" that was the highlight of the visit. If you find yourself in York it's just down the street from all the gift shops and very well worth a visit.
Time to glue some wall castings on the Brambell's build!
I venture to guess you DID NOT accompany the CEO into those aforementioned gift shops .... so you DID wimp out?!?!? :o
I went in a couple - didn't find anything I wanted to buy. No yellow or red boxes. ;)
When we went to Wales and rode the Ffestiniog, I ended up coming home with a bunch of 009 kits and a renewed interest in HOn30. (http://www.parksidedundas.co.uk/acatalog/copy_of_PARKSIDE_DUNDAS__ROLLING_STOCK_KITS_.html (http://www.parksidedundas.co.uk/acatalog/copy_of_PARKSIDE_DUNDAS__ROLLING_STOCK_KITS_.html) )
dave
Dave
If I ever went back I would make a trip out of all the great steam train rides.
Today, I started gluing the wall castings in place for the Brambell's build. I use lots of weights and angle plates to make sure everything is square.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-091015141100.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-091015141100.jpeg)
Today, I completed the four walls to the Brambell's warehouse building and glued them together. It is great to see this build starting to go together.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-141015203153.jpeg)
Do you think I used enough clamps? I sure didn't want this thing to move on me - and it's square!
There is no such thing as "too many clamps"
dave
Quote from: deemery on October 15, 2015, 10:03:30 AM
There is no such thing as "too many clamps"
dave
Dave
You got that right? I seem to keep collecting more of them and they always seem to be in use.
I use the Irwin (also American Tool, I forget which company bought out the other) "one handed" clamps A Lot! I've found the off-brand versions (Sears, as well as Harbor Freight) to be markedly inferior. The other clamps I use a lot for this kind of work are 12" brass bar clamps. I don't use those spring clamps like you have at the top as much, in part because there's no control over clamping pressure.
dave
Hi John:
you got to do what you got to do. Nice clamp job. Wall lookk pretty darn nice too.
Karl
Quote from: postalkarl on October 16, 2015, 12:18:58 PM
Hi John:
you got to do what you got to do. Nice clamp job. Wall lookk pretty darn nice too.
Karl
Karl
Thanks for the kind words, and for stopping by the thread. It is really nice to be building structures again.
As usual a very outstanding work !!! But there is something that I think breaks all the realism of your work: the vertical line of separation between the two wall casting, especially on surfaces covered with bricks. Are you planning to spend a few hours (admittedly very extremly boring) to fill this space with putty ?????
Just my two cens
Eric Québec city
Quote from: EricQuebec on October 16, 2015, 05:39:03 PM
As usual a very outstanding work !!! But there is something that I think breaks all the realism of your work: the vertical line of separation between the two wall casting, especially on surfaces covered with bricks. Are you planning to spend a few hours (admittedly very extremly boring) to fill this space with putty ??? ??
Just my two cens
Eric Québec city
Eric
You make a great point - the problem is that you can't fit a piece of paper between the castings so there is nothing to fill with putty - it is truly a line. This is one disadvantage of using metal castings rather than hydrocal where it would be very easy to fix this. If you look closely at the pictures George provides with the kit he hid the line with some Ivy and a well placed detail casting. That is how I plan to solve the issue. Thanks for the input - every picture I take during a build is to blow things up and create a punch list of things to fix before I move on with the build. Having more than one set of eyes on these pictures is one of the great advantages to posting on the forum. Eric thanks again for following along and you comments and suggestions are very welcome.
Here are some progress pictures of the Brambell's build now that I have moved it to my workbench where all the detail work will be done.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-161015195338.jpeg)
So I put this picture on the big monitor in my office and it looked like the left side of the building was leaning out. So off I went into the layout room and took more pictures and got out the square and convinced myself that it was an optical illusion from either the lens of my iPhone or the angle of the picture. I have a few touch up areas and some casting joints to hid but I think it's a good start.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-161015195406.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-161015195433.jpeg)
A few of the detail castings are sitting around on the workbench drying.
Thanks for the picture with the square, John. - I don't think I would have believed you otherwise!!! Looking good!
Oh - and my computer has bounced more photos to you again - hence the lack of emails from me.
Cheers, Mark.
John,
The build is looking great. Love the stone work.
Tom ;D
I see the pigeons! ;D An FSM trademark. You're doing a great job so far.
Jeff
Quote from: mark dalrymple on October 16, 2015, 09:11:22 PM
Thanks for the picture with the square, John. - I don't think I would have believed you otherwise!!! Looking good!
Oh - and my computer has bounced more photos to you again - hence the lack of emails from me.
Cheers, Mark.
Thanks Mark
I don't think I believed my eyes until a but a square on it. It appears that there is a little fish eye affect with the iPhone lens. I'm going to play with it and see if I can repeat it.
I hope we can figure out what's going on with the emails - your pictures are making a great contribution to the F&SM thread.
Quote from: ACL1504 on October 17, 2015, 07:42:06 AM
John,
The build is looking great. Love the stone work.
Tom ;D
Tom
Thanks for the kind words and stopping by the thread.
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on October 17, 2015, 07:43:33 AM
I see the pigeons! ;D An FSM trademark. You're doing a great job so far.
Jeff
Yes the pigeons - they sure are fun to paint. It is all about the details! Thanks for the kind words and stopping by Jeff.
Man, I love that stonework. Nice job!!
John
Really good looking work going on here.....love the way the stonework comes together in the scene. 8)
Quote from: Cuse on October 17, 2015, 10:26:32 AM
Man, I love that stonework. Nice job!!
John
Thanks John - I really like how the pigments look on all three of the base materials.
Quote from: GPdemayo on October 17, 2015, 10:32:53 AM
Really good looking work going on here.....love the way the stonework comes together in the scene. 8)
Greg
Thanks for the kind words - I'm looking forward to seeing this build in it's home location on the layout.
Today I returned from my fishing trip/trip to see my daughter and decided to take a few pictures of what was on my work bench when I returned. This is a build thread so here is a few glimpses into the chaos on the S&S RR. I have three structure builds going on all of which need castings so there is a lot of casting painting going on. The assorted castings in these pictures are from Brambell's FSM 205, the Sandhouse FSM 180, and Chippy Hollow Hardware FSM 260. They are in various stages of completion but the pictures represent the status of these builds today.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-221015202342.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-221015202306.jpeg)
The wall castings for Chippy Hollow Hardware - base colors applied.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-221015202454.jpeg)
Color check with a window casting.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-221015202419.jpeg)
Well, the first box of detail castings has been painted and are ready for the build. I would guess that this is about half of the castings. The second half is scattered around my workbench mounted on sticks with a few colors added. Here are a few pictures before they go on the shelf to wait for the right time to add them to the build.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-261015113353.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-261015113432.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-261015113522.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-261015113555.jpeg)
As usual, careful study of these photographs on my large monitor will create a touch up list when they are added to the build.
I build the wood retaining wall for the right side of the Brambell's diorama today and tried a new technique that I thought I would share.
Step 1:
Cutout the template card that George supplies with the kit. The FSM instructions have you stain the strip wood before you start the build. I have been getting more and more confidence with the pigments and alcohol technique that I decided to try the build first and then color the strip wood. In the next few photographs I will describe the process I used.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-271015200251.jpeg)
Step 2:Cut the template card to the retain wall size required for the build.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-271015202128.jpeg)
Step 3: Glue the strip wood directly to the card as George describes in his instructions.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-271015200322.jpeg)
Step 4: When everything is in place clamp it down with lots of weights and let the glue dry.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-271015200432.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-271015200432.jpeg)
Step 5: Add the chalk pigments - I just scraped it from the stick onto the wood with a razor blade.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-271015200603.jpeg)
Step 6: Using lots of alcohol work the pigments into the wood with a paint brush. I put the weights back on to keep the assembly from warping while the alcohol dried.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-271015200804.jpeg)
The wood still looks dark in these pictures because everything was still wet.
Step 7: Again back to the FSM instructions was to add the dirt. The backing card hold it in place while you mount it to the diorama.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-271015201007.jpeg)
Step 8: I used a brush to spread the dirt into the wall then wet everything down with wet water.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-271015203644.jpeg)
Step 9: Then I added the white glue (4:1) - the same process used to apply ballast.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-271015200857.jpeg)
Step 10: I then added the weights again to keep everything from warping. Notice the plastic card from my hotel stays between the weights and the wood. I think you could write an entire book on the uses for those plastic cards in model railroading.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-271015201050.jpeg)
Step 11: When the glue was dry enough to handle the assemble I moved it to the diorama and glued it in place. Again with the weights - this time we will let it dry over night.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-271015201131.jpeg)
The wood again is wet so it looks a little dark. Step 12: Will be some dry brushing after everything is dry to bring out the texture in the wood.
In addition to the wood retaining wall I also started adding the trim and inside bracing to the Warehouse structure. Tomorrow should be toping out day with the roof going on.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-271015201223.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-271015201258.jpeg)
I'm trying the same technique of adding the prime and color to the trim after I install it. First time for everything - we will see how this goes.
Looking really nice, John! Your stonework looks terrific! Liking that crib wall too.
Cheers, Mark.
Thanx for the crib wall John, looks great, I'm glad the instructions are that well done , makes me less nervous to start a kit like this.
Hi John:
You are doing a bang up job on this one. Love you stone work colors. Keep the pics coming.
Karl
Quote from: mark dalrymple on October 27, 2015, 09:13:00 PM
Looking really nice, John! Your stonework looks terrific! Liking that crib wall too.
Cheers, Mark.
Thanks for the kind words and for following the thread - this is a very fun build - I can't believe how many detail castings I have painted and there still lots to go. It is all about the details.
Quote from: Janbouli on October 28, 2015, 04:09:24 AM
Thanx for the crib wall John, looks great, I'm glad the instructions are that well done , makes me less nervous to start a kit like this.
Jan
Thanks for following along on the thread. Yes - the FSM instructions are great.
Quote from: postalkarl on October 28, 2015, 07:31:19 AM
Hi John:
You are doing a bang up job on this one. Love you stone work colors. Keep the pics coming.
Karl
Karl
Thanks for the kind words and for following along on the build. I'm glad you like the colors - They are different than the recommended kit colors but I wanted to match the area on the layout.
Today, I spent my modeling time catching up on all those little tasks on the Brambell's build that I had skipped. So today; I painted the inside of the warehouse black, added lights, installed and painted the corner trim, and painted more castings.
Looks great John. I really like the cribbing wall idea.
John
Quote from: Cuse on October 29, 2015, 06:19:52 AM
Looks great John. I really like the cribbing wall idea.
John
John
Thanks for stopping by - I like the way the cribbing wall turned out - using the cardboard template as a backing for the dirt works great. It's time for the roof and all the additions to the warehouse.
Good Morning John,
The layout and building is looking great. That was a lot of clamps and weights on the structure. A good test for it. Keep up the good work. Need to get back working on my layout.
Frank / Erieman
Quote from: Erieman on October 29, 2015, 12:36:47 PM
Good Morning John,
The layout and building is looking great. That was a lot of clamps and weights on the structure. A good test for it. Keep up the good work. Need to get back working on my layout.
Frank / Erieman
Frank
Thanks for the encouraging words and stopping by the thread. And yes, we need to weight test our structures around here - snow load - something you have forgotten about from all those years in the sun. Good to hear from you - already thinking about following the sun.
I have spent the past few days at my cabin trying to catch some fish. The fishing in Michigan has been in a steady decline for the past 10 years because of the new species being deposited in the Great Lake from all those boats from China. The economic pain to Northern Michigan is getting very evident - all the little tackle shops, boat dealers, hotels, and restaurants are really hurting.
So what does this have to do with my layout build - well I have spent many hours by the fire this week working on the design for the two major cities of Superior and Seattle. Over the years I have collected many pictures and plans for possible prototype structures for both cities. The problem is that I don't like the way the actually cities would fit my layout space. So I have decided to keep the freelance thing going for the complete layout. I have reversing loops at the ends of the track which are hidden - so the tunnel portals to these loops are going to be labeled Superior and Seattle and the town/cities at each end of the layout will be freelance cities with freelance structures. I'm working on names for them. The idea is that these towns/cities will be a stop before you get to Seattle or Superior. This way the structures can be a collection of buildings I like and I don't have to worry about being prototypically correct. This is not stretch from the original concept for the layout which was to have a railroad that went from the Great Lakes to the Pacific Northwest along a route that caught all this wonderful mountains in-between. Also, because I have already built the mountains the large towns/cities will be designed and built in the terrain that is there instead of having the scenery and terrain be an after thought. So for those of you that prefer prototypical modeling - sorry it's my railroad. I hope you will follow along and see where this takes us.
Hi,
You have done fantastic work on that structure. Great modelbuilding.
I like the way you think about the new concept for Seattle and Superior....Sound very interesting for me. Keep it going that direction.
Regards,Chris
Interesting, John.
Nice idea for the cities being a stop back. I assume you will still base some of the structures on your collection of prototype photos? I guess you can call your layout 'freelance-pro' rather than 'proto-freelance'. Has a nice ring to it.
Cheers, Mark.
Hi John.....in the final analysis, yours is the only opinion that really counts. If you are happy with freelancing (my personal favorite) rather than prototypical correctness, then go for it.
I have had little exposure to the guys in the hobby that have the mind set of modeling down to the last rivet or brick, From what little I have been around these types, my general impression is that they aren't a very happy bunch, unless they are harshly critiquing someone else's efforts, and they are very serious about everything they do.
I guess what I'm trying to say is have fun and do it your way and don't worry about those others out there that criticize anything they don't deem as proper. It's just a hobby.
By the way, your approach to putting the towns into the terrain is just the way we do it in the real world and should give you the natural look you are aiming for. I, for one, will be following you along. 8)
Quote from: Twist67 on November 02, 2015, 11:07:04 AM
Hi,
You have done fantastic work on that structure. Great modelbuilding.
I like the way you think about the new concept for Seattle and Superior....Sound very interesting for me. Keep it going that direction.
Regards,Chris
Chris
Thanks for the kind words and encouragement. I think my design work is about 10 years ahead of the build, who knows, it's full steam ahead.
Quote from: mark dalrymple on November 02, 2015, 01:05:06 PM
Interesting, John.
Nice idea for the cities being a stop back. I assume you will still base some of the structures on your collection of prototype photos? I guess you can call your layout 'freelance-pro' rather than 'proto-freelance'. Has a nice ring to i
Cheers, Mark.
Mark
Thanks for the encouragement - Yes the prototype photos of the structures will be used - just not in the locations of the prototype cities.
I like your names for the layout much better than the ones my wife - the boss and CEO of the Superior and Seattle, uses. Thanks for following along.
Freelance-Pro does have a nice ring.
Quote from: GPdemayo on November 02, 2015, 02:32:55 PM
Hi John.....in the final analysis, yours is the only opinion that really counts. If you are happy with freelancing (my personal favorite) rather than prototypical correctness, then go for it.
I have had little exposure to the guys in the hobby that have the mind set of modeling down to the last rivet or brick, From what little I have been around these types, my general impression is that they aren't a very happy bunch, unless they are harshly critiquing someone else's efforts, and they are very serious about everything they do.
I guess what I'm trying to say is have fun and do it your way and don't worry about those others out there that criticize anything they don't deem as proper. It's just a hobby.
By the way, your approach to putting the towns into the terrain is just the way we do it in the real world and should give you the natural look you are aiming for. I, for one, will be following you along. 8)
Greg
Thanks for the kind words and for following along. Maybe it's the Engineering training but making the structures fit the scenery is much more natural, for me, than making the scenery fit the structures.
I just finished up the trim and installed the lights, so I decided to take few photographs of the build before I add the roof.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-041115114903.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-041115114832.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-041115114758.jpeg)
You can see a few places where I added more pigments and haven't blended it out yet. Time to bring in the roofers.
Yea I know, I missed half of the back of the false front with the green pigments. I'm off to take care of that.
Hi,
Great looking structure. Can´t wait to see it on the layout. Very well done.
Regards,Chris
Quote from: Twist67 on November 05, 2015, 06:22:06 AM
Hi,
Great looking structure. Can´t wait to see it on the layout. Very well done.
Regards,Chris
Chris
Thanks, I'm looking forward to adding this one to the layout too.
Yesterday, I finished painting another box full of detail castings.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-051115082411.jpeg)
John,
Do you have a post or any hints on how you painted the castings. Look great!
Chris
Quote from: chris.mincemoyer.3 on November 08, 2015, 12:18:28 PM
John,
Do you have a post or any hints on how you painted the castings. Look great!
Chris
Chris
Thanks for the kind words and for visiting the thread.
The link below is to the Sierra West University which is how I got started using pigments and chalks. The basic formula for all the castings in the box you see is; prime them with a base grey, tan or black depending on the overall color. Then use acrylic paints to get the different contrasting colors right - then highlight and dull them down with chalks and pigments. Take a look at the videos and thread on this website and please let me know if you have any questions. The chalks and pigments not only help with the coloring but add texture which really makes them come to life. If you go back to page 90 of this thread you will see pictures of these castings in various stages of completion. In addition to the pigments you see on my bench I use lots of Rembrandt Soft Pastel sticks per the Sierra West links. Again, please don't hesitate to ask specific questions.
http://www.sierrawestscalemodels.com/clinic/clinic.shtml (http://www.sierrawestscalemodels.com/clinic/clinic.shtml)
Today, I finished painting the detail castings for the Brambell's and Chippy Hollow builds. There are over 800 castings in this picture and the major wall and window castings for Chippy Hollow are stored away in another box waiting for the build. There will be some touchup once the castings are in place but we are ready to get back on the construction.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-101115144339.jpeg)
John,
That sure is a whole bunch of casting. Are your eyes still crossed? 8) 8) 8) 8)
Tom ;D
Mike Baker suggested ModelMaster enamels for the primer coat/first coat for metal castings (I get mixed results from spray cans). So I bought a couple colors today and will prime them tonight and start with the powders tomorrow, per the Sierra West blogs.
dave
Quote from: ACL1504 on November 10, 2015, 03:00:13 PM
John,
That sure is a whole bunch of casting. Are your eyes still crossed? 8) 8) 8) 8)
Tom ;D
Tom
Thanks for stopping by the thread.
I thought when I started on such a large batch of castings that I would go crazy before I finished them - but after a while a got in a rhythm and found it very enjoyable. I know that the next batch will go much faster. I know I'm not going to miss using floquil paints, and alcohol and pigments is going to replace most of my alcohol and ink applications. I will also will be repainting some castings from previous builds before they go on the layout.
Quote from: deemery on November 10, 2015, 04:58:25 PM
Mike Baker suggested ModelMaster enamels for the primer coat/first coat for metal castings (I get mixed results from spray cans). So I bought a couple colors today and will prime them tonight and start with the powders tomorrow, per the Sierra West blogs.
dave
Dave
I have not used the ModelMaster enamel so I'm looking forward to your report. I have been using the Ultra-Flat Krylon Camouflage paints from a rattle can for all my primer/base coats and have been very happy with the results.
WOW!!! I don't think I own that many castings!
Looking great, John!
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: mark dalrymple on November 10, 2015, 11:34:02 PM
WOW!!! I don't think I own that many castings!
Looking great, John!
Cheers, Mark.
Mark
Thanks for stopping by the thread - that's two yellow boxes worth back in the day - as they say. I'm sure glad I bought all those FSM kits when I did. I can't imagine what these kits would have to sell for now to make a profit. Individually, if you could by castings of the same quality, I would guess 3 to 5 bucks apiece. Anyway, on with the build.
The roofing is going on for the warehouse. I'm modeling the late 1940's time frame so I decided to go with a cedar roof on the warehouse rather than the patchwork roof that George recommended in the kit. I'm going to save the more run down look for other areas on my layout.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-101115180943.jpeg)
Great job on the casting marathon! Those shingles look great - who makes them?
John
Wow. I've done a lot of castings at the beginning of a build but never that many! :o I have a lot of FSM kits on shelf (including Brambell's) but I'm not in any hurry to challenge your record. ;) ;D
I did a lot of castings years ago, never made it into any good movies though ;)
Quote from: Cuse on November 11, 2015, 09:24:10 AM
Great job on the casting marathon! Those shingles look great - who makes them?
John
Thanks John
I started putting the roof details on the warehouse and started digging in the box for a piece of brass tube and found out that I didn't pull the castings out of the plastic bags for all the out buildings for the Brambell's build. About 50 more castings to paint.
I will go take a picture of the shingles with the contact information - post to follow.
John
Follow-up on the shingles - I bought these at then Narrow Gauge Convention in Houston. I picked up one card each of the three colors I liked the best - they had more colors. The contact information is on the card in the picture. Based on the results on this build I will be ordering more.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-111115192738.jpeg)
Quote from: ReadingBob on November 11, 2015, 02:07:01 PM
Wow. I've done a lot of castings at the beginning of a build but never that many! :o I have a lot of FSM kits on shelf (including Brambell's) but I'm not in any hurry to challenge your record. ;) ;D
Bob
I thought I got them all and just found about 50 more castings in the individual plastic bags for the out buildings on the Brambell's build. I can't believe George made any money on this kit. Oh, and there are two vehicle kits too.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-111115195012.jpeg)
Quote from: Janbouli on November 11, 2015, 06:36:00 PM
I did a lot of castings years ago, never made it into any good movies though ;)
Jan
I had the same problem.
I have a question for those that have been around building supplies longer than I have. For my Brambell's build I'm modeling the late 1940's and Brambell's is a plumbing and heating supply store. So there's lots of pipe and duck work for the details in the yard.The questions are:
When did copper pipe start going into buildings?
When did PVC start going into buildings?
How far back does galvanized duck work go?
Before these materials was everything black pipe?
Can anyone help with these questions?
I reposted these questions here from the baggage car just incase some of you don't follow the baggage car discussions. I may have to do some internet research on this but I'm hopeful that someone know the answers to these questions.
Quote from: S&S RR on November 10, 2015, 06:08:05 PM
Quote from: deemery on November 10, 2015, 04:58:25 PM
Mike Baker suggested ModelMaster enamels for the primer coat/first coat for metal castings (I get mixed results from spray cans). So I bought a couple colors today and will prime them tonight and start with the powders tomorrow, per the Sierra West blogs.
...
... I have not used the ModelMaster enamel so I'm looking forward to your report. I have been using the Ultra-Flat Krylon Camouflage paints from a rattle can for all my primer/base coats and have been very happy with the results.
How long do you let the Primer dry/cure?
dave
Quote from: deemery on November 12, 2015, 05:21:46 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on November 10, 2015, 06:08:05 PM
Quote from: deemery on November 10, 2015, 04:58:25 PM
Mike Baker suggested ModelMaster enamels for the primer coat/first coat for metal castings (I get mixed results from spray cans). So I bought a couple colors today and will prime them tonight and start with the powders tomorrow, per the Sierra West blogs.
...
... I have not used the ModelMaster enamel so I'm looking forward to your report. I have been using the Ultra-Flat Krylon Camouflage paints from a rattle can for all my primer/base coats and have been very happy with the results.
How long do you let the Primer dry/cure?
dave
Hi Dave
I usually wait at least 24 hours before I mess with the castings. I'm usually working on multiple projects so as a general rule it is longer than that. I haven't had any issues with the primer lifting.
The 40-60 mile an hour winds and rain made for some extra modeling time today. ;) The castings and wood for the out buildings made their way out of the bags and into cups on my work bench. The castings, 75 more in total, made it to the paint booth and were primed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-121115192530.jpeg)
I also got started on the roof details on the warehouse. Here is a progress picture.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-121115192612.jpeg)
By the end of the day the walls were together for the hoist house, and the rafter ends were installed on both sides of the warehouse (but not trimmed). That will wait for the glue to dry.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-121115193022.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-121115193934.jpeg)
I would like to thank everyone who contributed to the discussion in the baggage car today about the types of plumbing and heating supplies that were in use in the late 1940's. I will be painting the heating ducks with aluminum paint to simulate galvanized, the pipe will be copper, galvanized, and black. And we have determined that our time frame is to early for PVC or any other plastic pipe.
Here is a progress picture on the Brambell's build from today. The Hoist house has been added, along with more roof details and I lightened the shingle up with some dry brushing of pigments. More detailing tomorrow.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-191115212817.jpeg)
I started building the side shed for the warehouse on Brambell's today. George provides 4 castings for the foundation.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-201115193234.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-201115193205.jpeg)
As a point of reference, as of today, I have completed sheet A of George's instructions and have the first half of sheet B completed.
I also continued with the detailing of the warehouse. I haven't even got it built and the pigeons have found it. Looks like they were trained over on Erieman's layout.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-201115193333.jpeg)
Now that I'm starting to build the outbuildings, I decided to move the build from my workbench back to the layout. I wanted to check the look and the planned placement for the outbuildings.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-211115122007.jpeg)
The side shed for the warehouse under construction.
Here are the three reference photographs of the build in the planned layout location.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-211115122043.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-211115122121.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-211115122149.jpeg)
WOW , what a signature scene this will turn out to be.
Impressive as all get out!!!!
Wonderful.... very impressive.
Eric Quebec city
Quote from: Janbouli on November 21, 2015, 12:54:28 PM
WOW , what a signature scene this will turn out to be.
Thanks Jan
I'm really enjoying this build - great kit! I think my changes to make it work in this spot are going to work just fine. We'll see!
Thanks for following along.
Quote from: Donato on November 21, 2015, 01:28:44 PM
Impressive as all get out!!!!
Donato
Thanks for the kind words and following the thread. I was very concerned about the darker brown stonework but it seems to work in this spot.
Quote from: EricQuebec on November 21, 2015, 02:49:10 PM
Wonderful.... very impressive.
Eric Quebec city
Eric
Thanks for following along and the kind words - now for all those details!
Today, I started getting the base ready for the outbuildings.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-211115180605.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-211115180639.jpeg)
First layer, I use beach sand to get the topography right. Then I use a thin layer of the sand the color I'm looking for.
Also, built up and painted the walls for the side shed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-211115180715.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-211115181013.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-211115180750.jpeg)
Is that a paint brush you're using to apply Pan Pastels?
dave
Quote from: deemery on November 21, 2015, 06:51:39 PM
Is that a paint brush you're using to apply Pan Pastels?
dave
Hi Dave
No - In this case I used a foam applicator that I bought from Dick Blick. This one has removable foam heads that seem to last about 3 times as long as the others that I have used. I just ordered 4 new handles with a bunch of replacement heads, because it has become my go to application tool for pan pastels on wood. I still use the sponges for application on stone work. I then use paint brushes for the detail "dry brush" work. I hope this answers your question - let me know if it doesn't.
One followup to the answer above - you will notice on the roof of the warehouse that I just go for it with the pan pastels (lots of green on the shingles) from a touchup job. If you recall back a few pages I forgot to color half of the back side of the front wall. I will then go in and clean up with the gum eraser before I dry brush the shingles on this side. The tar needs to be toned down and the shingles look way to new.
John,
It still is looking very good. It looks great on the S&S.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on November 22, 2015, 08:10:39 AM
John,
It still is looking very good. It looks great on the S&S.
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom
I made some more progress on the Brambell's build today. I fixed a few things from the progress pictures last week ( the big one was to trim the roof overhang about 1/8 of inch on the back side of the building) the overhang didn't look right to me. I also completed the side shed and assemble the walls. Next step, is to complete the shed roof.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-231115224415.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-231115224450.jpeg)
Comment on the pictures: The iPhone sure does show the dry brushing on the roof to be a lot lighter than what I see with my eyes. I need to get the SLR out and see if that makes a difference. I may need to go to a darker pigment?
John,
I'm not sure the iPhone makes any difference. I think the cropping and adjusting the photos give you the light/dark look of the dry brushing you desire. That being said, I'm not a professional photographer either. And, I still refuse to carry a cell phone. ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Tom 8)
Quote from: ACL1504 on November 24, 2015, 08:07:16 AM
John,
I'm not sure the iPhone makes any difference. I think the cropping and adjusting the photos give you the light/dark look of the dry brushing you desire. That being said, I'm not a professional photographer either. And, I still refuse to carry a cell phone. ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Tom 8)
Tom
I have had a cell phone since they came in a suitcase ( I had to with my job) - we called them bag phones - so I'm use to it. The nice thing about taking pictures with my iPhone is that I don't do any adjusting of the photos just click and post. It is just that sometimes my eyes don't agree with it. It tends to intensify colors. At least to my eye.
Looking good, John. Brambell's has a pretty cool decretive cornice.
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: mark dalrymple on November 24, 2015, 01:09:53 PM
Looking good, John. Brambell's has a pretty cool decretive cornice.
Cheers, Mark.
Thanks Mark - George did do a great job with the castings in this kit.
John,
You may have posted it somewhere but I am too lazy to find :-[. What is the story behind your layout? When it comes to railroad history my knowledge of it is close to zero so I apologize if I am wrong but it seems there was no Superior & Seattle RR in reality (at least Google couldn't find anything). Just curious...
Vilius
Quote from: TheUkranian on November 25, 2015, 10:04:34 AM
John,
You may have posted it somewhere but I am too lazy to find :-[ . What is the story behind your layout? When it comes to railroad history my knowledge of it is close to zero so I apologize if I am wrong but it seems there was no Superior & Seattle RR in reality (at least Google couldn't find anything). Just curious...
Vilius
Vilius
Thanks for following along and your interest in my project.
The S&S (Superior & Seattle) Railroad is a freelance layout which runs from "Superior" Lake Superior region of Michigan to "Seattle" Pacific Northwest. It can best be described as a mountain railroad with selective compression used between the major mountain ranges along the route. It's my railroad and I like mountain scenery. The equipment is leased from the other railroads in the area – namely Great Northern and Northern Pacific. The Superior part of the Layout will be models of the Copper mines and mining towns that were once in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan. This area is of interest because I went to college at Michigan Technological University which is in the center of this region. There will also be a narrow gauge RR - a branch line of the S&S that is yet to be named.
John,
Fair enough. What is your era? Thanks.
Vilius
Quote from: TheUkranian on November 25, 2015, 09:15:24 PM
John,
Fair enough. What is your era? Thanks.
Vilius
Late 1940's. This date was chosen because it allows me to model the copper mines before they started coming down. The last real copper mining in the UP was during WWII.
Here is the latest progress photograph of the Brambell's build. Added the stairs and roofing on the shed and more details. I decided to make my Brambell's look like it was updated and maintained after the war with a new roof etc. There will be plenty of areas on the layout to go for the completely run down look of the depression era.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-261115120247.jpeg)
Beautiful, John! I really like that green.
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: mark dalrymple on November 26, 2015, 01:14:48 PM
Beautiful, John! I really like that green.
Cheers, Mark.
Thanks Mark
Tomorrow, I will start the deck that goes around the opposite side of the warehouse.
Started adding the front porch today. Also, stained the strip wood for the loading dock that raps around the front and side of the warehouse.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-281115092238.jpeg)
John,
The dock looks great.
Tom ;D
Great job John. I love the bright color but weathered down look very much, especially with such an interesting and diverse structure. Fantastic!
John
John and Tom
Thanks for the kind words and for stopping by the thread. I plan on spending lots of hours working on the layout the next few months. I hope to have lots of progress pictures to post along the way.
The stone work makes the whole building stand out.
8)
Quote from: ak-milw on November 29, 2015, 04:29:34 PM
The stone work makes the whole building stand out.
8)
Andy
Thanks for stopping by the thread and for the kind words - I do like structures with stonework.
Quote from: S&S RR on November 29, 2015, 06:37:00 PM
Thanks for stopping by the thread and for the kind words - I do like structures with stonework.
Yeah, I know what you mean!! I really enjoy painting stones.
dave
Quote from: deemery on November 29, 2015, 06:53:10 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on November 29, 2015, 06:37:00 PM
Thanks for stopping by the thread and for the kind words - I do like structures with stonework.
Yeah, I know what you mean!! I really enjoy painting stones.
dave
See what you can do when the stones ain't rollin' !!!!!
Quote from: Donato on November 29, 2015, 09:05:22 PM
Quote from: deemery on November 29, 2015, 06:53:10 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on November 29, 2015, 06:37:00 PM
Thanks for stopping by the thread and for the kind words - I do like structures with stonework.
Yeah, I know what you mean!! I really enjoy painting stones.
dave
See what you can do when the stones ain't rollin' !!!!!
Paint moss on them? ;D
dave
I have lost control of the thread again!
Quote from: S&S RR on November 29, 2015, 09:29:38 PM
I have lost control of the thread again!
Wait 'til 'Gnat finds it.
Quote from: S&S RR on November 29, 2015, 09:29:38 PM
I have lost control of the thread again!
A rolling stone catches no paint? ::)
Quote from: S&S RR on November 29, 2015, 09:29:38 PM
I have lost control of the thread again!
Welcome to thread, oops, I mean my world.
Tom ;D
Sorry I mentioned it! ;D
8)
Quote from: ak-milw on November 30, 2015, 07:03:25 PM
Sorry I mentioned it! ;D
8)
Andy
The forum is all about having fun with our hobby. Thanks for stopping by and contributing.
Quote from: GPdemayo on November 29, 2015, 09:39:35 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on November 29, 2015, 09:29:38 PM
I have lost control of the thread again!
A rolling stone catches no paint? ::)
Greg
They all get paint on the S&S.
Quote from: deemery on November 29, 2015, 09:20:57 PM
Quote from: Donato on November 29, 2015, 09:05:22 PM
Quote from: deemery on November 29, 2015, 06:53:10 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on November 29, 2015, 06:37:00 PM
Thanks for stopping by the thread and for the kind words - I do like structures with stonework.
Yeah, I know what you mean!! I really enjoy painting stones.
dave
See what you can do when the stones ain't rollin' !!!!!
Paint moss on them? ;D
dave
It is kinda weird to enjoy paint stones - but when has that stopped us.
Quote from: S&S RR on November 30, 2015, 07:35:33 PM
Quote from: BandOGuy on November 29, 2015, 09:39:09 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on November 29, 2015, 09:29:38 PM
I have lost control of the thread again!
Wait 'til 'Gnat finds it.
He is back - it's only a matter of time.
Keep on postin', John !!!
I know how to handle the riff-raff around here, particularly that Chippy boy!!
He's just a Southern Redneck Mafa wanna-be!
Quote from: gnatshop on November 30, 2015, 07:50:50 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on November 30, 2015, 07:35:33 PM
Quote from: BandOGuy on November 29, 2015, 09:39:09 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on November 29, 2015, 09:29:38 PM
I have lost control of the thread again!
Wait 'til 'Gnat finds it.
He is back - it's only a matter of time.
Keep on postin', John !!!
I know how to handle the riff-raff around here, particularly that Chippy boy!!
He's just a Southern Redneck Mafa wanna-be!
I told you!
Good to have you back David.
Today, I finished construction of the warehouse deck. Tomorrow, I will add the legs and glue it to the warehouse.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-011215182622.jpeg)
Today's progress pictures of the Brambell's build. Finished the front porch and added more details. Next step is to add the completed deck. In my version of the model Brambell's has added a new cedar shingle roof to the warehouse since the war.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-031215180805.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-031215180730.jpeg)
WOW!!
8)
Quote from: ak-milw on December 03, 2015, 06:35:46 PM
WOW!!
8)
Andy
Thanks - slow but sure it's coming together. Posting these pictures is a great way of creating the "stuff I have to fix list".
I spent a few more hours on the build tonight and glued down the cement footings for the deck. The deck is just sitting on the footings while the glue dries. I need to make some adjustments to the height so it clears the doors. George suggested in the instruction to wait until the pit area detailing was complete before actually gluing it to the footings and warehouse. In the second picture, I glued the cement sections of the fence to the baseboard. A chain link fence goes on top of the cement. As I explained early in this build thread, I need to modify the pit area trestle for two reasons. First, it needed to be narrower to fit my spot on the layout. Second, my trestle is for truck traffic because the rail siding on the S&S RR fits great in the original location and there is not enough room behind the warehouse to get a truck to the back side of the yard. In the instructions George explains that the original use for this building was for a coal facility. Hence, the coal shoots on the back of the pit. For my application the rail cars will use this location.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-031215210109.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-031215210137.jpeg)
Looking great John. 8)
So John,
Who had the pigeons first, you or Frank/Erieman? Nice looking build.
Steve
Quote from: sdrees on December 04, 2015, 03:58:22 PM
So John,
Who had the pigeons first, you or Frank/Erieman? Nice looking build.
Steve
Hi Steve
Thanks for stopping by the thread.
I don't think Frank or I are the first to have pigeons but Frank's seem to S**t more than the one's on the S&S RR.
Today, I started building the trestle - that in my case will carry truck traffic from the front to the back yard of the complex. Some redesign was required to get the height right, but by the end of the day we had a plan and bent production had begun.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-051215214013.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-051215214013.jpeg)
Quote from: S&S RR on December 04, 2015, 04:13:06 PM
Quote from: sdrees on December 04, 2015, 03:58:22 PM
So John,
Who had the pigeons first, you or Frank/Erieman? Nice looking build.
Steve
Hi Steve
Thanks for stopping by the thread.
I don't think Frank or I are the first to have pigeons but Frank's seem to S**t more than the one's on the S&S RR.
John / Steve
I think the proper term is bird poop or bird poo, not bird s**t. Just saying. And yes, it was someone on this forum ( or maybe the other forum) that told me that I needed more bird poop on my buildings. Now you are going to ask who was that person. Well, give me some time and I will go back to that build and find out who mentioned this delicate item. I think the birds with a little excrement provide a little more to the story. But thanks for asking. TTFN
Frank / Erieman
A nice polite term for 'droppings' is "fewmets" https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fewmets (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fewmets) That goes well with knowing your collective nouns (venery), see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_English_terms_of_venery,_by_animal (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_English_terms_of_venery,_by_animal) Example, "we could tell by the fewmets that a kit of pigeons had visited recently."
Oh, and a suggestion: At the top of the brick chimney, there's flat black around that round chimney topper. Suggest toning that down with a dark grey, in general I save pure black only for shadows. It doesn't "scale" properly.
dave
Quote from: Erieman on December 06, 2015, 11:02:17 AM
Quote from: S&S RR on December 04, 2015, 04:13:06 PM
Quote from: sdrees on December 04, 2015, 03:58:22 PM
So John,
Who had the pigeons first, you or Frank/Erieman? Nice looking build.
Steve
Hi Steve
Thanks for stopping by the thread.
I don't think Frank or I are the first to have pigeons but Frank's seem to S**t more than the one's on the S&S RR.
John / Steve
I think the proper term is bird poop or bird poo, not bird s**t. Just saying. And yes, it was someone on this forum ( or maybe the other forum) that told me that I needed more bird poop on my buildings. Now you are going to ask who was that person. Well, give me some time and I will go back to that build and find out who mentioned this delicate item. I think the birds with a little excrement provide a little more to the story. But thanks for asking. TTFN
Frank / Erieman
I think the details make all the difference with our models - even if we can't agree on the PC name for them. Just saying. PFM
Quote from: deemery on December 06, 2015, 12:23:18 PM
A nice polite term for 'droppings' is "fewmets" https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fewmets (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fewmets) That goes well with knowing your collective nouns (venery), see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_English_terms_of_venery,_by_animal (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_English_terms_of_venery,_by_animal) Example, "we could tell by the fewmets that a kit of pigeons had visited recently."
Oh, and a suggestion: At the top of the brick chimney, there's flat black around that round chimney topper. Suggest toning that down with a dark grey, in general I save pure black only for shadows. It doesn't "scale" properly.
dave
Dave
Thanks for the suggestion - I added it to the fix list. One of the things I'm finding with photographing my models is that color contrasts seem to be exaggerated. The chimmy top is concrete but the inside is flat black. The difference looks much greater in a photograph than to my eye. The gray concrete color is lighter and brighter and the flat black seems to have more gloss and is darker in the picture.
I'm taking a little break and thought I would post some progress pictures from this morning. I started assembling the trestle.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-061215142655.jpeg)
I'm using my iPhone more and more as a modeling tool. I cut and sanded the legs for the deck until it was level. Keep in mind that the base has to be level on the workbench and on the layout for this measurement to mean anything.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-061215142742.jpeg)
A few more progress pictures of the trestle install.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-061215143339.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-061215142824.jpeg)
I also install another section of stone wall to support the dirt road that will serve as a ramp for truck traffic into the pit area. In the instructions George makes this out of cardboard and then fills it with plaster. I decided to add some more stone work and fill it with sand.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-061215143434.jpeg)
At this point it is time to remove the deck and fill in the pit area with dirt and then the details before I add the top deck to the trestle.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-061215143512.jpeg)
Quote from: S&S RR on December 06, 2015, 02:24:30 PM
Quote from: deemery on December 06, 2015, 12:23:18 PM
... Oh, and a suggestion: At the top of the brick chimney, there's flat black around that round chimney topper. Suggest toning that down with a dark grey, in general I save pure black only for shadows. It doesn't "scale" properly.
Dave
Thanks for the suggestion - I added it to the fix list. One of the things I'm finding with photographing my models is that color contrasts seem to be exaggerated. The chimmy top is concrete but the inside is flat black. The difference looks much greater in a photograph than to my eye. The gray concrete color is lighter and brighter and the flat black seems to have more gloss and is darker in the picture.
Just to show I'm a hypocrite, the coal here was painted with (Golden Fluid Acrylic) Carbon Black. This has a nice shine to it and looks a lot like anthracite, in both 'naked eyeball' and photos. :o
dave
Quote from: deemery on December 06, 2015, 05:20:38 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on December 06, 2015, 02:24:30 PM
Quote from: deemery on December 06, 2015, 12:23:18 PM
... Oh, and a suggestion: At the top of the brick chimney, there's flat black around that round chimney topper. Suggest toning that down with a dark grey, in general I save pure black only for shadows. It doesn't "scale" properly.
Dave
Thanks for the suggestion - I added it to the fix list. One of the things I'm finding with photographing my models is that color contrasts seem to be exaggerated. The chimmy top is concrete but the inside is flat black. The difference looks much greater in a photograph than to my eye. The gray concrete color is lighter and brighter and the flat black seems to have more gloss and is darker in the picture.
Just to show I'm a hypocrite, the coal here was painted with (Golden Fluid Acrylic) Carbon Black. This has a nice shine to it and looks a lot like anthracite, in both 'naked eyeball' and photos. :o
dave
Dave
Great discussion - some things are supposed to be shinny. Very few things in the real world are pure white or pure black. I believe the camera picks up on this in artificial lighting. I will change the coloring of the chimney this week and post some pictures. Your comments are spot on and I thank you for them.
This evening I added the first layer of dirt to the pit area of the build. This is up to the minute posting the glue is still very wet!
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-061215192118.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-061215192152.jpeg)
The next step in the build will be the main beams on the trestle. I got the first couple glued in place before dinner.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-061215192354.jpeg)
The directions in the picture above are Sheet C from the FSM instructions. I just flipped the page.
Tonight progress report starts with finishing the main beams for the trestle.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-071215205017.jpeg)
I then added the fine dirt to the pit. This is the stuff that has been screened until it is like powder or paint pigment. It needs to be very fine to get the scale right. The dirt that I use I found near my cabin and it's very light in color but seems to take the color of the dirt in the layer underneath. I have pictures with and without glue tonight. The dried pictures will have to wait for tomorrow.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-071215205017.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-071215205557.jpeg)
Top view - you can see the color change as I add the glue.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-071215205101.jpeg)
After the glue. I also added some of the dark brown coarse dirt to the top area above the pit.
The next step was to get the duck work and pipe details ready for painting.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-071215205329.jpeg)
A picture from the paint booth. Pipe was primed with flat black primer, the duck work pieces got a coat of gray primer.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-071215205356.jpeg)
Next on the agenda was the deck boards on the trestle.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-071215205252.jpeg)
Final picture for tonight - the deck is complete and weighed down for the glue to dry. Yes- I went to the Jaime school of glue fixtures. The more pressure you have the better the bond.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-071215205224.jpeg)
Quote from: S&S RR on December 07, 2015, 09:11:19 PM
Final picture for tonight - the deck is complete and weighed down for the glue to dry. Yes- I went to the Jaime school of glue fixtures. The more pressure you have the better the bond.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-071215205224.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-071215205224.jpeg)
I've never seen a train of weights before!
dave
Dave
I guess you have a point - first time for everything.
I don't think that truck is strong enough to pull them.
8)
Quote from: ak-milw on December 08, 2015, 08:22:04 PM
I don't think that truck is strong enough to pull them.
8)
I think your right! The weights have done their job - more pictures tonight.
Here are a few progress pictures - The trestle deck is in and weathered, also started to add some details in the pit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-101215204240.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-101215204028.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-101215203611.jpeg)
The next steps are the chain link fence on top of the cement wall and the railing on the trestle. I also made about a 100 more aspen trees today.
I think you should start a Part 2 thread now!
dave
beautiful work, John.
John
It's coming along nicely. The vines are a great scenery touch.
Jeff
Looking mighty good John!
Tom ;D
Quote from: deemery on December 10, 2015, 09:19:02 PM
I think you should start a Part 2 thread now!
dave
Dave
I thought that wasn't necessary anymore - I posted a question to the membership of the forum for direction. I will start a new Volume 2 thread if it is necessary. Thanks for bringing it to my attention.
Quote from: Cuse on December 11, 2015, 06:44:56 AM
beautiful work, John.
John
John
Thanks for the kind words - this kit is amazing in the number of detail castings and the intricacy of the build. I asked George if he made any money on this kit and his comment was that "this one was done in his crazy years".
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on December 11, 2015, 07:41:40 AM
It's coming along nicely. The vines are a great scenery touch.
Jeff
Jeff
Thanks - the scenery materials have sure come a long way in the last few years.
Quote from: ACL1504 on December 11, 2015, 08:21:47 AM
Looking mighty good John!
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom
I'm at the point in this build where the castings are coming out of the box for the next one - Chippy Hollow will be next up on the build list.
I have spent the last couple of days adding shelves to my work area and making aspen trees, in addition to a few more steps on the Brambell's build - making the fence for the cement wall and the railing for the trestle. I want to get to the point where I can have two or three structures in various stages of being built at the same time. This means lots of bench space, so it was time to get better organized.
As to the issue of breaking this thread and starting a volume 2. As long as it doesn't slow anything down, or we reach the end of the internet, I want to try to keep everything in one thread. I know that in the past some of the threads liked to break things up when a thread reached 100 pages. I think technology has taken care of that issue, but if we find out otherwise - I will break the tread into two or more threads at that time. At this point, I have had no issues with response time.
It appears that I'm 25 pages behind with the index - I hate it when that happens. It's on the to-do-list. I keep an index of the thread on page 1.
One advantage of starting Thread #2, is you can start fresh with a new index for that thread, locking the Thread #1 index :-)
dave
Quote from: deemery on December 13, 2015, 11:45:51 AM
One advantage of starting Thread #2, is you can start fresh with a new index for that thread, locking the Thread #1 index :-)
dave
We will see how this goes - I would like to have the build all in one place - we will see if the technology can handle it.
Quote from: S&S RR on December 20, 2013, 10:27:49 PM
New home of the Superior & Seattle Railroad Build Thread
Index to the thread Updated 12/12/15. I will update this every time we add a few pages so we can go back and find different topics when necessary.
INDEX
Page 1 Changing forums - the benchwork
Page 2 Overview and Status in March of 2014
Page 3 A look back at the Benchwork and Paster work on the mountains,
Painting the Plaster work
The Photo Back Drops
Making Aspen Trees
Page 4 Making Pine Trees
Preparing the Talus Materials
Page 5 Prototype Photographs
Page 6 Prototype Photographs
Control Panel
Page 7 Layout Diagram "original plan"
Roundhouse Photographs
The Stone Roundhouse Build - start
Page 8 Stone Roundhouse Build - the walls
Page 9 Stone Roundhouse Build - the Roof
Page 10 Stone Roundhouse Build - Painting
Page 11 Laying more track
Planning the town of Sellios
Page 12 Testing track
Page 13 First Runs - lower track
Page 14 Benchwork and Town layout - Sellios
Page 15 Benchwork and Town layout - Sellios
Page 16 Track work in Sellios
Page 17 Planning Structure Placement - Sellios
Page 18 Logo for the Superior & Seattle Railroad
Page 19 Cedar Shingle Pine Tree armatures
Modeling in the Summer
Page 20 Roofing on the Stone Roundhouse
Page 21 Doors on the Stone Roundhouse
Page 22 More plaster work
Page 23 Installing the DCC System
Page 24 DCC System Discussion
Page 25 DCC System Installation
Page 26 DCC System Installation
Page 27 More track installation
Page 28 Track Testing
Page 29 Door production for the Stone Roundhouse
Page 30 Ballasting The Eagles Nest Yard
Page 31 Ballasting The Eagles Nest Yard
Page 32 Changes - moving mountains
Page 33 Adding some talus materials
Page 34 Stone Roundhouse Build - Tar Paper Roof
Page 35 Stone Roundhouse Build - Doors, Windows, Trim
Page 36 Planting Aspen Trees,
prototype pictures Aspen Trees
Page 37 Stone Roundhouse Build Trim, Front Stone Work
Pictures of Mountains with Fall Color
Page 38 The view through "Wayne's hole"
Page 39 Some overall room photographs of the layout
Page 40 Stone Roundhouse Build - Painting the trim
Page 41 Stone Roundhouse Build - Installing the Windows
Page 42 The A&I tube
Page 43 Stone Roundhouse Build - Painting the Roof
Page 44 Stone Roundhouse Build - Final pictures on the workbench
Stone Roundhouse Build - Moving and installing on the layout
Page 45 Stone Roundhouse Build - Installation pictures
Page 46 Discussion of storage on the benchwork
Page 47 New - flex shaft rotary tool
Page 48 The Eagles Nest Yard
Page 49 Kit discussion
Page 50 Scenery on Mt. Aiden
Page 51 Mt. Aiden Trestle Build - bents
Page 52 Testing coloring for the Trestle
Page 53 Start of scenery on Mt. Aiden
Page 54 Progress pictures scenery on Mt. Aiden
Page 55 Surveying for the Trestle
Stripwood for the Mt. Aiden Trestle
Casting the footings for the Mt. Aiden Trestle
Page 56 Changes in the Mountains
Page 57 Coloring the trestle footings
Page 58 Mt. Aiden Scenery progress pictures
Page 59 Setting the footings for the Mt. Aiden Trestle
Page 60 Mt. Aiden Trestle Build first Bents
Page 61 Staining Stripwood
Page 62 Mt. Aiden Trestle Build
Page 63 Mt. Aiden Trestle Build
Page 64 Trestle Build progress pictures
Page 65 Trestle Build progress pictures
Page 66 Painting Bolt Castings
Page 67 Installing Bolt Castings - Mt. Aiden Trestle
Page 68 Cutting more strip wood
Dealing with impatient forum members
Page 69 Adding retaining walls
Page 70 Trestle Build progress pictures
Page 71 Counting nut and bolt castings
Page 72 Mt. Aiden Trestle - the finishing process
Page 73 Adding Scenery to Mt. Aiden
Page 74 Building retaining wall for Mt. Aiden
Pine Tree Production
Page 75 Dead Pine Trees
Page 75 The Brambell's Build Start - What's in the box
Page 76 Brambell's - Site preparation on the Layout
Page 77 Brambell's - Making Extra Castings
Page 78 Brambell's - Changing the site plan to fit my location on the layout.
Page 79 Brambell's - Making Molds
Page 80 Brambell's - Painting the castings
Page 81 Brambell's - Preparing the background scenery
Page 82 FSM Sawmill reconditioning for the S&S RR.
Page 83 Brambell's - Fitting castings to my site.
Page 84 Brambell's - Castings - lessons learned
Page 85 Brambell's - Painting the castings
Page 86 Brambell's - Testing the base with castings on the layout
Page 87 Brambell's - Detail castings - preparation for painting
Brambell's - The warehouse walls
Page 88 New Tools
Page 89 Brambell's - Warehouse Assembly
Page 90 Brambell's - Painting the detail castings
Brambell's - The wood retaining wall
Page 91 Brambell's - More Warehouse Assembly
Page 92 Brambell's - adding detail castings
Page 93 Brambell's - Warehouse Roof Construction
Page 94 Brambell's - Adding the Hoist House
Brambell's - Adding the back deck
Brambell's - A test fit on the layout
Page 95 Brambell's - Adding the ground cover
Page 96 Brambell's - Adding the Warehouse back shed
Page 97 Brambell's - More details
Page 98 Brambell's - Building the front deck
Page 99 Brambell's - Building the Trestle
Page 100 Brambell's - The cement wall
Brambell's - The Trestle Deck
Page 101 Updating the index
Here is a progress picture of the Brambell's build. I finished the chain link fence (Wilfred spent the money on a new roof and hasn't got around to a fence upgrade). I also just got started on the railing for the trestle. I also have the roof for the back deck completed and ready for assembly.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-151215192415.jpeg)
The fence is awesome John , great work , can't wait to see more.
The finals on the posts are a great touch.
8)
Quote from: Janbouli on December 15, 2015, 07:40:52 PM
The fence is awesome John , great work , can't wait to see more.
Thanks Jan
The lesson learned on the fence build was soldier it - supper glue is just not strong enough.
Quote from: ak-milw on December 15, 2015, 07:59:31 PM
The finals on the posts are a great touch.
8)
Andy
Thanks - the castings come with the kit. Applying them was a challenge. Finding them on the floor after they shot out of the tweezers was a real challenge.
Hi John:
Looks great. Love the stone work and the green you used on the walls.
Karl
Quote from: postalkarl on December 16, 2015, 09:11:01 AM
Hi John:
Looks great. Love the stone work and the green you used on the walls.
Karl
Karl
Thanks - I appreciate the kind words.
Quote from: S&S RR on December 16, 2015, 08:15:55 AM
Quote from: ak-milw on December 15, 2015, 07:59:31 PM
The finals on the posts are a great touch.
8)
Andy
Thanks - the castings come with the kit. Applying them was a challenge. Finding them on the floor after they shot out of the tweezers was a real challenge.
Thats why I have an apron mounted to the workbench.
Jan
The aprons work great if you stay at one workbench. I keep moving around between 3 workstations so I never could make it work for me. I hate waiting for paint and glue to dry so I keep multiple builds going. While I'm working on Brambell's I'm also glueing bents together for another trestle and I have started painting the castings for Chippy Hollow.
I have 3 workspots as well, one where I build , one where I do all painting and a standing one with electrical tools like sander, table saw etc. The two I do sitting I have aprons, one to catch small items the other to protect against paint . But there is no right way there's only what works for someone.
Quote from: Janbouli on December 18, 2015, 03:28:33 AM
I have 3 workspots as well, one where I build , one where I do all painting and a standing one with electrical tools like sander, table saw etc. The two I do sitting I have aprons, one to catch small items the other to protect against paint . But there is no right way there's only what works for someone.
Jan
You convinced me - or at least spending 10 minutes looking on the floor for another casting did ;) . I'm going to add aprons to all my workstations.
I spent most of the day today working on the scenery - added another 200 trees to the layout. I also spent some time on the Brambell's build - added a loading dock for the rail cars.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-191215195248.jpeg)
The wood spacers glued to the foam are the result of a careful buildup to get the track level right for loading and unloading box cars.
Here is a picture of a box car in position on the track. The wood spacers will set the height of the track.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-191215194950.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-191215194848.jpeg)
Notice that the floor of the open box car is at the same level as the loading dock.
Here is a photograph of the process of adding the sand filler - wet glue and then after it had dried for a couple hours.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-191215194818.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-191215194917.jpeg)
This whole area will be covered with the top layer of dirt before the track is added.
And now a few pictures of the area being forested.
The area I'm working on is around the corner from the Mt. Aiden Trestle. Here is a couple pictures of the trestle with the new aspen trees in the background.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-191215195220.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-191215195142.jpeg)
And here is the area being forested.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-191215195105.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-191215195105.jpeg)
You can start to see how the different levels of the layout will blend together. The plywood area will be a small town with a mountain in the background. Then an area of trees with a river and a large town on the level below.
Your Little People appreciate ensuring the loading dock height is correct. The aspens look great, too.
dave
Coming on a treat, John!
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: deemery on December 19, 2015, 08:17:40 PM
Your Little People appreciate ensuring the loading dock height is correct. The aspens look great, too.
dave
Those little people have to deal with some heavy weights coming out of those box cars - we needed to make sure it was as easy as possible.
Quote from: mark dalrymple on December 19, 2015, 10:36:22 PM
Coming on a treat, John!
Cheers, Mark.
Mark
Thanks - I really love doing the scenery. It makes the structures really look good if I get it right. Time will tell.
John,
Simply ..... OUTSTANDING!!!! ;)
John, the scene is going to look very interesting when completed.
Are you going to add some yellow trees to the lower section to blend in with the upper section?
Marty
Quote from: Donato on December 20, 2015, 12:53:45 AM
John,
Simply ..... OUTSTANDING!!!! ;)
Donato
Thanks for the kind words and for stopping by the thread.
Quote from: martin.ojaste on December 20, 2015, 04:16:58 AM
John, the scene is going to look very interesting when completed.
Are you going to add some yellow trees to the lower section to blend in with the upper section?
Marty
Marty
Yes, there will be a few yellow leaves here and there on the trees in the lower section. I'm trying to model both depth and height so the trees in the lower levels are going to be still green with the trees progressively getting more color as you move higher in elevation. I also started adding just a little orange to the trees to match the prototype pictures I have from my trips to the mountains. I think it really helps the scene. You will also notice that the size of the trunks on the aspen trees gets smaller as the distance gets farther away. I hope it will all work.
Thanks for stopping by the thread.
Ok, I thought I saw that, but I assumed it was just picture and my eyes being blurry.
John, everything is looking great. I caught up a few pages and this is a real treat. You are a testimonial to the concept that retired people can make valuable contributions. This is a real primer on how to do a layout right. We should bring an Expo to your neighborhood soon so we can all see it.
Quote from: Mike Engler on December 20, 2015, 10:19:14 AM
John, everything is looking great. I caught up a few pages and this is a real treat. You are a testimonial to the concept that retired people can make valuable contributions. This is a real primer on how to do a layout right. We should bring an Expo to your neighborhood soon so we can all see it.
Mike
Thanks for the kind words. As for the EXPO in this area - I'm all for it. It will be a few years before this layout is ready to show but I'm having fun with it and that's what counts. Thanks for stopping by the thread.
For the past week I have been getting to the workbench in couple our increments between the Christmas activities. Tonight, I will get this thread up-to-date.
I have been working on the office building - which from a build standpoint is very similar to the warehouse. Here is a picture just after I mounted it to the base.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-281215193435.jpeg)
The glue on the canopy roof was still drying so I left the weights on for the picture.
Here is another picture that shows the layout of the yard better.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-281215193353.jpeg)
I took this picture because I found a better way to paint corrugated roofing material (at least better than what I was doing). The old procedure was to paint the sheet with premier and then cut the roofing material to size. This usually resulted in lots of shinny spots to cover because the premier popped off as you handled the material as it was cut to size.
What I did this this time was cut it to size and then mounted it on a piece of strip wood with double stick tape. Then I painted it with gray primer. The process worked great - not a single shinny spot from the primer popping off.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-281215194752.jpeg)
Finally, here are a few progress shots that I took to create my fix list for the office.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-281215193802.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-281215193736.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-281215193703.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-281215193635.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-281215193608.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-281215193635.jpeg)
It sure didn't take Wilfrid long to find the chair and his favorite beverage.
Very nice work, can,t wait to see it finish and on the layout.
Eric Québec city
That looks awesome John, The colors are perfect, great build.
Sam
Sweet! Great job John. It's going to look wonderful on the layout.
Quote from: EricQuebec on December 29, 2015, 06:19:18 AM
Very nice work, can,t wait to see it finish and on the layout.
Eric Québec city
Eric
Thanks, I'm excited about moving this one to the layout too! I have a number of out buildings to build along with the detailing and fixing a few issues. I'm also waiting for some more shingles to come in so I can add the last row on the top of the office.
Quote from: ollevon on December 29, 2015, 08:05:44 AM
That looks awesome John, The colors are perfect, great build.
Sam
Sam
Thanks for the kind words.
Quote from: ReadingBob on December 29, 2015, 08:15:32 AM
Sweet! Great job John. It's going to look wonderful on the layout.
Bob
Thanks - I have a few more trees to add in the area and then I will be able to plant this one on the layout in a finished area. :)
Just wonderful John .... always love to see your work.
It's going to be a beautiful scene on your layout . That Coke cooler is great btw.
Quote from: Donato on December 29, 2015, 12:10:58 PM
Just wonderful John .... always love to see your work.
Donato
Thanks for the kind words - I have the next two builds out of the box - I started painting the castings for Chippy Hollow Hardware - and I need to finish the FSM Sand-house that I started about 8 or 9 years ago just before I pulled a "Cuse" and completely went in a different direction with my layout.
Quote from: Janbouli on December 29, 2015, 06:38:54 PM
It's going to be a beautiful scene on your layout . That Coke cooler is great btw.
Jan
Thanks for the kind words. The Coke cooler is one of the FSM castings that George included in the kit. I think old Wilfrid is keeping more than just Coke cool in it.
Today, I spent the whole day framing the out buildings and making the wood fences - I will take some pictures as soon as they come out of the paint booth. I also took a look at a plan for the rest of the detail castings that come with the kit. I have used about 10 percent of them at this point. This kit will be displayed right up front where everyone can see it so I think all the castings will be used.
John: This thread has been a Forum highlight all year. Thanks for all your efforts in compiling and posting it for us. Sure would love to pop in on one of our Michigan forays in 2016! Happy New Year!
Quote from: Dave K. on December 31, 2015, 08:53:12 AM
John: This thread has been a Forum highlight all year. Thanks for all your efforts in compiling and posting it for us. Sure would love to pop in on one of our Michigan forays in 2016! Happy New Year!
Dave
Thanks for the kind words - let me know when you are going to be up this way. I would love to show you what I'm up to.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-301215154303.jpeg)
I added the fences to the yard area of Brambell's, after some scenery work it will be time for all those detail castings.
Thank you kindly! Looking forward to it. 👍🏻
Fantabulous, loving it more with every photo you show.
Here is another progress shot from a different angle. I can't emphasize enough how taking progress pictures helps me with my modeling. The camera is like looking through a magnifying glass for me.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-301215154410.jpeg)
Same here...catches all the gaps, unpainted board ends, crooked parts, etc. and seems to magnify them so I can go back and fix 'em.
Here is one more picture. Notice how the under layer of dirt looks way to coarse ( out of scale). I put this down for color and then add a final layer that is screened to be almost a powder.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-301215154455.jpeg)
Quote from: Janbouli on December 31, 2015, 02:04:31 PM
Fantabulous, loving it more with every photo you show.
Thanks Jan
Everyday will add more detail now - I have the first out building in the paint booth.
Quote from: Dave K. on December 31, 2015, 02:56:58 PM
Same here...catches all the gaps, unpainted board ends, crooked parts, etc. and seems to magnify them so I can go back and fix 'em.
You have to watch the lens distortion when it comes to crooked. I had convinced myself that the roof was crooked on the warehouse. Not so after lots of measurements.
Happy New Year from the staff and crew of the Superior & Seattle Railroad.
HAPPY NEW YEAR JOHN!
Tom ;D
Quote from: S&S RR on January 01, 2016, 01:18:30 PM
Happy New Year from the staff and crew of the Superior & Seattle Railroad.
And a big Happy New Year to you and your staff and crew from the gang at the St. Louis & Denver Railroad! ;D
I spent the day taking some prototype pictures for a design change I'm thinking about.
On my recent trip to California I spent some time in the hotel room making some design changes to the upper level track. It was time to finalize the design so I can get back to laying track. The new design allows for a continuous run through the different levels of mountain track by using a helix inside the mountains. Originally the design called for reversing loops at each level. I will be changing the drawings in the next few days and will post a picture. This new design also allows me to extend the upper level narrow gauge line by 40 feet. I spent a couple hours this morning making sure it would all work. Now, it's time to get out the saw and go to work removing some of my old layout inside the mountains.
Oh my gosh.....Langford's Syndrome has moved out to the Mid-West.....sounds like a plan we will look forward to seeing. 8)
Quote from: S&S RR on January 11, 2016, 10:45:14 AM
On my recent trip to California I spent some time in the hotel room making some design changes to the upper level track. It was time to finalize the design so I can get back to laying track. The new design allows for a continuous run through the different levels of mountain track by using a helix inside the mountains. Originally the design called for reversing loops at each level. I will be changing the drawings in the next few days and will post a picture. This new design also allows me to extend the upper level narrow gauge line by 40 feet. I spent a couple hours this morning making sure it would all work. Now, it's time to get out the saw and go to work removing some of my old layout inside the mountains.
John,
Way to go my friend. I look forward to what you plan to do. You won't be disappointed.
Tom ;D
Quote from: GPdemayo on January 11, 2016, 02:01:08 PM
Oh my gosh.....Langford's Syndrome has moved out to the Mid-West.....sounds like a plan we will look forward to seeing. 8)
I'm afraid so - an intermountain ovalix - kinda sounds like a surgical procedure. In this case it is sure starting out like one. I will post a few pictures when I get far enough along to show something.
Quote from: ACL1504 on January 11, 2016, 03:31:41 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on January 11, 2016, 10:45:14 AM
On my recent trip to California I spent some time in the hotel room making some design changes to the upper level track. It was time to finalize the design so I can get back to laying track. The new design allows for a continuous run through the different levels of mountain track by using a helix inside the mountains. Originally the design called for reversing loops at each level. I will be changing the drawings in the next few days and will post a picture. This new design also allows me to extend the upper level narrow gauge line by 40 feet. I spent a couple hours this morning making sure it would all work. Now, it's time to get out the saw and go to work removing some of my old layout inside the mountains.
John,
Way to go my friend. I look forward to what you plan to do. You won't be disappointed.
Tom ;D
Well Tom it's all your fault - it all started because I was looking for a way to extend the narrow gauge branch of the S&S. I will post pictures and explanations later in the week but we now have a name for it. See post above.
So here are a few pictures of the progress I'm making on the Brambell's build. I'm back to jumping between three different projects but it just the way I like to work.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-130116174149.jpeg)
This is the fine dirts - almost like pigments - that I'm using for the top layer of dirt for the yards. This has been sifted with four different progressively smaller metal screen meshes and then through a pair of nylons. The results are like a fine dust.
Here are a few pictures of the yard after the dirt has been spread around and glued down. You can see how much darker the color gets.
Some of this is from the glue and some from the sub layer of dirt. These pictures were taken before the glue was completely dry.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-130116174250.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-130116174250.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-130116174329.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-130116174329.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-130116180007.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-130116180007.jpeg)
Note: add staining the back side of the fences to the fix it list.
John,
Brambell's is looking really good. Enjoying the build.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on January 14, 2016, 07:47:09 AM
John,
Brambell's is looking really good. Enjoying the build.
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom
I'm enjoying building it - Great kit!
I made more progress on the Brambell's build today - added the crane and more details. I also decided to fit the build into the layout one more time before I glued the outbuildings down on the baseboard. Here are a few pictures.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-140116200856.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-140116200856.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-140116200819.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-140116200819.jpeg)
The large rocks in the background will be covered with "rock talus" that is to-scale for the scene.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-140116200557.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-140116200557.jpeg)
Here are a few more from different angles.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-140116200933.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-140116195947.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-140116195947.jpeg)
Now, for a few pictures to describe what I'm up to inside the two large mountains on the layout. The original design for the layout was for the train to loop around each mountain at each of four levels and most of the change in grade would take place about 40 feet away - this required a train to pass through each scene twice to make a complete trip around the layout. I also have a narrow gauge branch line that is point to point at the upper most level on the layout but it was only about 20 feet long. I have always wanted to extend the run for the narrow gauge line but had space problems because of the reversing loops on the standard gauge lines. So I spent my evenings this past week reviewing the design and came up with a way to connect the different levels of the layout by constructing partial helixes inside the two large mountains. This freed up the space need to extend the narrow gauge line. The only downside to this plan was that I built this layout on top of the benchwork from my previous layout. Let me see if I can explain with a few pictures.
This is a picture of the benchwork from my previous layout. The gentleman in the picture is my Dad - this is the only picture I have of my Dad in the train room so it has great sentimental value to me. I lost my Dad to cancer 15 years ago, I still think of him every day and many of his tools are being used to build this layout. This picture was taken somewhere around 20 years ago.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-140116195852.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-140116195852.jpeg)
Here is a picture of the same area of the room today.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-140116200237.jpeg)
From the camera to the back corner of the room is roughly 15 feet.
If you look closely at the picture you can see the four levels of track work. There will be a wooden trestle for the Narrow Gauge line in the center of this scene.
In this next picture I have moved the camera angle to the right.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-140116200154.jpeg)
And then another 20 degrees or so to the right.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-140116200100.jpeg)
In this last picture you can see the lowest level of standard gauge track on the layout.
In my next few posts I will show the view under the layout and the work that must be done to make room for the helixes.
John, the Brambells scene is magnificent, just love it.
The photo of your dad made me think , I hope I can get my dad into my train room before it is too late, another reason to clean up.
Yep, definitely a case of Langford Syndrome.....if you catch it in time it might not be as severe as some cases we've seen on the forum. ;D
The Brambell's scene came out great and I know what you mean about the picture of your Dad. I lost mine about that long ago too. 8)
Quote from: Janbouli on January 15, 2016, 03:34:53 AM
John, the Brambells scene is magnificent, just love it.
The photo of your dad made me think , I hope I can get my dad into my train room before it is too late, another reason to clean up.
Jan
Thanks for the kind words - one more out building to build for the interior yard and then it's time to add all those castings. Getting close on this one.
My advise to you is get your dad into the train room As Soon As Possible - we don't know how much time we have. And take a picture or two - there will be a framed print of my Dad's picture on the wall in my train room when you stop by for a visit. I know it would be a long journey for you.
John,
My dad always encouraged me with the trains but never participated. Great photo of your dad in the mix of Helixes. The Langford Syndrome is much to over rated. It doesn't hurt one bit if you keep your eyes on the prize. 8) 8)
Tom ;D
Quote from: GPdemayo on January 15, 2016, 08:38:52 AM
Yep, definitely a case of Langford Syndrome.....if you catch it in time it might not be as severe as some cases we've seen on the forum. ;D
The Brambell's scene came out great and I know what you mean about the picture of your Dad. I lost mine about that long ago too. 8)
Greg
Sorry to hear about your Dad - I hope the picture brought back some good memories for you.
I'm real excited about this change - it will make the layout better. And it only requires some cleanup underneath the layout so nothing visible will need to be changed. I'm about halfway through the sawing and removing old benchwork in the first mountain.
Quote from: ACL1504 on January 15, 2016, 08:47:20 AM
John,
My dad always encouraged me with the trains but never participated. Great photo of your dad in the mix of Helixes. The Langford Syndrome is much to over rated. It doesn't hurt one bit if you keep your eyes on the prize. 8) 8)
Tom ;D
Tom
Change is part of having a layout - I see no problem with it. As I said above this will make the layout better and I will have fun doing it - "the prize".
My Dad only got to work with me on the layout a couple times before he got sick. He would have loved working on it now. We worked on many building projects together for the first 42 years of my life and he did a great job of passing on his skills.
Looking good, John.
You will have to add an updated track-plan when you get around to it. I spent many a great weekend when I was a kid working with my Dad on my 8 by 4 layout. He still helps a bit now when I get stuck on an electrical problem. I must get that photo! I must have done too much rock casting - I'm sure I saw mold no. 127 in your photos!
Cheers, Mark.
Hi John,
I really like your rock work and its coloring. I think the texture is great. Did you do it with molds or carve it or both? If you used rubber molds, the must have been very large ones.
Steve
Quote from: mark dalrymple on January 15, 2016, 03:32:32 PM
Looking good, John.
You will have to add an updated track-plan when you get around to it. I spent many a great weekend when I was a kid working with my Dad on my 8 by 4 layout. He still helps a bit now when I get stuck on an electrical problem. I must get that photo! I must have done too much rock casting - I'm sure I saw mold no. 127 in your photos!
Cheers, Mark.
Thanks Mark
I will add the track plan again when I get it updated. And yes, get that photo! I'm sure number 127 is there somewhere - in one form or another. Along with numbers 1 - 136 or so. I don't even know how many molds I bought over the years - I have sold/donated some of them and the rest are waiting for that expansion some day. I remember one awkward moment at the airport on the way back from a Narrow Gauge Convention when I had my suitcase full of them and had to explain what they were for. I think the comment was "that's a new one". I called up the Bragdon website on my phone to explain. Thanks for stopping by.
Quote from: sdrees on January 15, 2016, 03:41:40 PM
Hi John,
I really like your rock work and its coloring. I think the texture is great. Did you do it with molds or carve it or both? If you used rubber molds, the must have been very large ones.
Steve
Steve
Thanks for the complement. Most of what you see is from molds - I did some carving between the molds. Yes, the molds were anywhere from 3 foot square to very small 2 inches by 3 inches. If you look back in the early pages of this thread you can see pictures of the process.
Thanks for stopping by the thread. And please let me know if you have any questions.
Last night I started to tell the story of my layout design change - I left off as I was going to post the pictures of the layout underneath the mountain. These three pictures represent a pan from front to back. As you can see some of the the old layouts hidden track is still there and all of the benchwork is worse for wear but still needs to be removed. In the back corner there is a space about 6 feet by 4 feet that was the home of the helix for the previous layout. Most of it is still there and needs to also be removed to make room for the new benchwork and track. I will also be cutting away most of the plywood base in the pictures - to make room for me as I install the new pieces. For reference this base plywood is at 42 inches from the floor.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-140116201251.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-140116201251.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-140116201126.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-140116201126.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-150116200020.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-150116200020.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-160116192238.jpeg)
I will post and update when all of the old benchwork and track is cut away and before I start installing the new. The plan is to build all of the pieces of the helix on my workbench and then install it, in as big of sections, as possible. I plan on doing all the soldiering of drops etc. before the sections go underneath the layout. In this area there is a 4 inch difference between the levels so the run only needs to be 200 inch run to maintain my 2% grade - I will probably have closer to a 1.5% grade to help deal with the radius affect. Level 1 and 2 will be connected and 3 and 4 will be connected in this area to make a continuous run around the layout.
The narrow gauge extension will start in the first picture here and continue across the room at the top track level until it ends in a reversing loop that extends from inside the mountain to a visible area on top of the plateau just to the right of the old tunnel portal in the picture this tunnel portal will be covered by a land form which will be 4 inches higher than the plywood top plateau you see in the last picture. The standard gauge line will pass either through or around this land form, I need to cut some foam and see what I like best.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-140116200100.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-140116200100.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-150116202658.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-140116200032.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-140116200032.jpeg)
At his point my plan is to remove all of the old layout and cleanup the area under the layout so I can work in there. I will be switching back and forth between building structures for the Eagle's Nest Yard and completing the upper level benchwork and track until the track work is complete. I also have two more trestles to build to complete this track work but they will be much smaller projects than the Mt. Aiden trestle. One of the trestles will be HOn3.
So that's my plan and I'm sticking to it until I have a better plan. Stay tuned.
John,
You had me at "my plan is to remove all of the old layout" ;D
That photo with your Dad suggests a helix up to the next floor in the house...I hadn't considered expanding that way. ;)
Great rocks and the structure looks great in it's new home...Look forward to seeing you at the Expo.
John M.
Quote from: Cuse on January 16, 2016, 09:58:41 AM
John,
You had me at "my plan is to remove all of the old layout" ;D
That photo with your Dad suggests a helix up to the next floor in the house...I hadn't considered expanding that way. ;)
Great rocks and the structure looks great in it's new home...Look forward to seeing you at the Expo.
John M.
Hi John
I'm looking forward to seeing everyone at the EXPO too! It's interesting the area I'm removing is about 25 years old and has been sitting under a mountain construction project. The flex track was old code 100 Atlas track that I was't going to use for the new layout so I left it there. It is in amazing shape and I will probably use it for the hidden helixes.
The helix that you see behind my Dad was 3.5% grade all the way to the ceiling - for Shay's only but it worked well. The long range plan at that time was to run the Shays through the ceiling of my office - on the other side of the wall. As you know - plans can change. I still plan on expanding the layout to take over about half my office - I don't even work half the time so I don't need the space for office. ;) I have an agreement with the boss that there will be no more expansion until what I have is done. I think that will take a few years.
Thanks for the kind words and for stopping by the thread.
Hey, John, here's some old-time video of railroading through the Cascades: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zw8FqbnFThs
dave
What a neat film, so many OSHA violations. :D
Jeff
Dave
This little film is great! I watched it twice, once on my macbook and again on the big screen. Now I need to figure out how to do a screen grab - so many ideas that will be incorporated into my layout. Two that I wrote down were the tunnel portals with wood inside and stonework from the area outside the wood, and look how big the timbers were on the trestles. Thanks for passing this along - love it - is there more where this came from?
It was posted to a Facebook page, don't have any more info. My favorite part is about halfway where you can see the falsework wood trestles and the newly poured concrete piers for the heavy duty bridges.
More than anything else, this reminded me of (the late :( ) Paul Scoles Lake Tahoe layout.
dave
Quote from: deemery on January 17, 2016, 03:16:19 PM
It was posted to a Facebook page, don't have any more info. My favorite part is about halfway where you can see the falsework wood trestles and the newly poured concrete piers for the heavy duty bridges.
More than anything else, this reminded me of (the late :( ) Paul Scoles Lake Tahoe layout.
dave
Dave
Yes there are many details to capture. I was luck enough to visit Pauls layout three times and I can see how you are reminded of his wonderful work.
I need to remember how to do a screen grab on my Mac - I know I have done it. Does anyone remember?
Command/Apple key & 4 Use the mouse (position top-left, and drag to bottom-right) to select what you want copied.
dave
Quote from: deemery on January 17, 2016, 05:16:34 PM
Command/Apple key & 4 Use the mouse (position top-left, and drag to bottom-right) to select what you want copied.
dave
Dave
Thanks - I will give it a try.
Really neat old film.....thanks Dave. 8)
Well the old layout is gone now - I've cleaned out all the old benchwork and it's ready for the new. Here are a few photographs of the area under the mountain now. The only thing I left is the 2x4 supports. I will add cross bracing as I add the new benchwork for the helix. I've checked all the measurements and it looks like I will be able to get the elevation change with a grade of about 1.5%. I don't want a situation where the locomotives have trouble when they are not visible.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-180116185224.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-180116185254.jpeg)
This is the corner where the old helix was.
looks like the ultimate mancave , all it needs is a crate of Heineken in the middle. ;)
Quote from: Janbouli on January 18, 2016, 07:10:40 PM
looks like the ultimate mancave , all it needs is a crate of Heineken in the middle. ;)
Jan
That sounds like a great plan for the golden spike celebration. My kids and now my Grand Kids have had a great time crawling through all the tunnels under the layout.
Well I hit a major milestone today. Finished the Brambell's build - at least the workbench part of it - the rest of the touchup etc. will be done as part of the planting process on the layout. I took a few pictures on the workbench with a sky blue background and then again after I put it on the self for safe keeping until I get the scenery, and track work completed in the area where it will go on the layout.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-220116085750.jpeg)
After review all the pictures I liked the ones from the self better so most of the shots I will post are from there.
Here is the left side of the build.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-220116170104.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-220116170144.jpeg)
We have a truck under repair in the front by the main office.
This is the center and main yard from a few different angles.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-220116170226.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-220116170226.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-220116170144.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-220116170144.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-220116170257.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-220116170257.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-220116172015.jpeg)
The pit area.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-220116172057.jpeg)
The main warehouse and the back yard - the trucks use the trestle to get to this back area.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-220116170326.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-220116170405.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-220116170436.jpeg)
In the back is the rail siding and the loading dock for the rail spur.
On the far right is another storage shed. Here are a couple detail pictures.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-220116170944.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-220116171029.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-220116203417.jpeg)
I need to fix the concrete pilers under this shed - the glue seeped up castings when I glued it down. So starts the list for planting fixes.
Well after reviewing all the pictures I can't seem to find anything to complain about. Excellent job, very nice details.
8)
Quote from: ak-milw on January 22, 2016, 08:37:48 PM
Well after reviewing all the pictures I can't seem to find anything to complain about. Excellent job, very nice details.
8)
Andy
Thanks - I keep adding things to the list but that's part of the process. I need to get it in the home position and then do another once over before I call it complete.
So late this afternoon I did something that probably hasn't been done for 5 years. I found the top of my workbench surfaces. I told myself that it was going to happen before I started another build. A few months ago someone started a thread posting pictures of their work bench. I took some pictures of mine but never posted them. So since I had thinks cleaned up I took some pictures. I keep making improvements to this work area but I'm getting to the point where I'm really happy with it. So for what it's worth this is where I hang out when I'm building structures in the layout room.
I have three basic work surfaces. In this picture you can see the edge of the layout and the throttle that I can reach from the work bench. My NCE system is all radio controlled but I don't leave the batteries in the cabs when I'm just testing. I learned that one the hard way when a couple batteries leaked into a cab.
Paper towel is always ready just in case I spill. I seem to go through lots of paper towels.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-220116171745.jpeg)
Moving to the right is the workstation where I do all my casting painting and weathering. I also have a glass surface for building subassemblies.
Above this station is the shelves that I use to hold the builds waiting to go on the layout plus lots of supplies.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-220116171659.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-220116171659.jpeg)
Turning to the right we have my strip wood storage. And another shelf for stuff. Another quarter turn gets us to the main work surface where I usually have the baseboard for whatever I'm building. I have a piece of sheet metal that is about 3 feet square which I use for laying out big structures with magnets. I also have cutting pads for each of the three surfaces which come out from under the bench when needed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-220116210144.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-220116205946.jpeg)
Another quarter turn and we have another work surface for subassemblies and painting. The paints in the background are my Christmas present from my wife. I think she likes having me down in my layout room out of her hair. I'm painting the front of the shelf with each color as I use them. Above each of these work surface is either shelves or cabinets for storage of supplies.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-220116171627.jpeg)
And finally another quarter turn and we have a small working surface as part of a cabinet. Yes we did go in full circle. Just to the right of this cabinet is the entry way into my cube. Yes - I sure like it better than the cube I had for an office in my working days.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-220116171429.jpeg)
Finally tonight - it's time to take the cover off the box for my next build. I will be splitting my time for the next few months between track work and scenery on the layout and building structures.
Next up - FSM's Chippy Hollow
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-220116171841.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-220116171909.jpeg)
John,
This reminds me to clean off my workbench and get back to the Delwin's Boat & Net Storage build.
Looking forward to you next kit build.
Tom ;D
PS- Very nice work area.
Great job on Brambell's. Nice work area. Thanks for the heads up about the batteries in the radio throttles. :o
Jeff
Quote from: ACL1504 on January 23, 2016, 07:37:29 AM
John,
This reminds me to clean off my workbench and get back to the Delwin's Boat & Net Storage build.
Looking forward to you next kit build.
Tom ;D
Tom
Thanks for stopping by the thread - there is always another project waiting - this is a very good thing.
PS- Very nice work area.
Tom
Thanks for stopping by the thread - there is always another project waiting - this is a very good thing.
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on January 23, 2016, 07:42:11 AM
Great job on Brambell's. Nice work area. Thanks for the heads up about the batteries in the radio throttles. :o
Jeff
Thanks for the kind words and for stopping by the thread. I think there is a real quality control problem with batteries these days - I only had the throttles a month when the batteries started leaking - no fault of NCE. I bought the batteries for Duracell. I'm going to rechargeable batteries but I still will remove them from the throttles after every operations session.
The hardware company kit looks like it will make another great scene.....I'll be watching John. :)
Quote from: GPdemayo on January 23, 2016, 09:24:24 AM
The hardware company kit looks like it will make another great scent.....I'll be watching John. :)
Greg
Thanks for stopping by - I'm looking forward to the build. I have a trestle to build and some scenery to finish before I can prepare the baseboard for it. It will be placed behind Brambell's - in the area where I have all the track covered for construction - if you look back at the layout pictures. I will try to remember to take a picture of the area and post it.
Hi John:
Very nice. Well done. I especially like the main building.
Karl
John,
Your Brambell's project turned out very nice. My work bench only gets cleaned up also after I finish a project. I am getting closer to starting my layout.
Steve
What a superb scene, modeling at it's finest John, I really like how all individual pieces mix to give that awesome whole.
BTW , I do not like your workbench, too empty ;)
John, I will be following this build also. I like all the small details you put into them.
8)
Quote from: postalkarl on January 23, 2016, 12:20:51 PM
Hi John:
Very nice. Well done. I especially like the main building.
Karl
Karl
Thanks for the kind words and for stopping by the thread. Like you I'm on to my next build.
Quote from: sdrees on January 23, 2016, 01:43:05 PM
John,
Your Brambell's project turned out very nice. My work bench only gets cleaned up also after I finish a project. I am getting closer to starting my layout.
Steve
Steve
Thanks for stopping by the thread and the kind words - I'm looking forward to your build thread on your layout.
Quote from: Janbouli on January 23, 2016, 01:50:54 PM
What a superb scene, modeling at it's finest John, I really like how all individual pieces mix to give that awesome whole.
BTW , I do not like your workbench, too empty ;)
Jan
Thanks I appreciate the kind words. BTW - I agree about the workbench - I'm sure it will start looking back to normal by the end of the day. I found supplies I did't remember buying during the cleaning process.
Quote from: ak-milw on January 23, 2016, 02:27:36 PM
John, I will be following this build also. I like all the small details you put into them.
8)
Thanks Andy
It is all about the details. It's time to get started on that next build.
Looking great, John - and I'm jealous of your work area!
Chippies is one FSM kit I could almost find enough room for on my layout!
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: mark dalrymple on January 23, 2016, 06:45:59 PM
Looking great, John - and I'm jealous of your work area!
Chippies is one FSM kit I could almost find enough room for on my layout!
Cheers, Mark.
Hi Mark
Thanks for stopping by and the kind words - the work area has been evolving for more than 20 years. And this little area is generation two because I had a similar space in my previous house. I wished I had pictures of some of the forum members work areas when I was getting started so I decided to post these - I hope they help someone.
I got started on the Chippy's build yesterday (casting are in the painting process). Once again I'm going for a color that matches the area I'm modeling. I can't make a case for a railroad shipping in building materials when there are mountains with locks of stone to be utilized. I will post pictures when I have something to show. I also started pine tree production again to complete the area behind the site for my Brambell's build.
We are waiting for the pictures... Load of them.
Vilius
John,
Great watching the FSM Brambell's build come together on your layout. 8)
Thanks for sharing your work. Looking forward to the next yellow box FSM Chippy Hollow build too ! ;)
Tom
Quote from: tom.boyd.125 on January 27, 2016, 03:32:51 AM
John,
Great watching the FSM Brambell's build come together on your layout. 8)
Thanks for sharing your work. Looking forward to the next yellow box FSM Chippy Hollow build too ! ;)
Tom
Tom
Thanks for stopping by the thread - I have the parts out of the next yellow box and will have an update later this evening.
I'm back at my three projects at once mode - it is just the way I like to work. I'm starting work on the smaller trestle in-front of Mt. Aiden - this one will make the curve back to the reversing loop. This is not an easy job because it requires me to lay on a temporary bridge that protects the track in the yard. I need to do some plaster work, then some painting and scenery before I can start the construction. The bents have arrived on location in a FSM box as you can see in the picture. For those that have order kits from George you will recognize the brown cardboard box that George always ships his kits in. It is amazing how many of these boxes I have in the layout room all being repurposed for storage. I counted 26 of them when I was under the layout last week working on the tear out of the old layout to make room for the helix. I have lost count of the number of kits that I have bought directly from George but I know it is at least 26.
So anyway the purpose of this post was to show the area were Chippy's is going to go. The base will be cut out of the plywood directly under the temporary 1:1 scale bridge.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-270116192118.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-270116192118.jpeg)
I forgot to mention that when I take build process pictures of the layout I'm using my iPhone and skip the step of sizing them before I post them. This results in a larger picture that you need to scroll to see everything. I know there are some that hate that but sorry it saves me time and I have a layout to finish so I'm limiting the amount of time I spent on posting to the forum.
I just had a thought - that I will try tomorrow. If I take the pictures in the square format with the iPhone this might not be a problem.
Test tomorrow.
Well I decided to get sidetracked and test the square format. Here it goes - this is the same area only shot from the Mt. Allen Trestle.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-270116194541.jpeg)
Looks like the scroll bars are still there on my screen so it only helped but did not solve the problem.
Project number two right now is making pine trees so I can finish the scenery on Mt. Aiden. Here is a progress shot of my workbench - I think I'm up to about 40 trees so far. I hope to make about 150 in this batch. This layout eats trees very quickly - but that should make a dent.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-270116192211.jpeg)
And finally for tonight project three progress report. The Chippy Hollow build. I primed the main castings and have added three shades of Pastel chalk so far. I'm going to color my castings to look like the rocks from the surrounding mountains were used to make the walls. I need to look at these for a couple days - I'm trying to decide if I want to add a gray mortar and if I want to lighten them up with lighter brown shades or just a slight dry brush. What do you think?
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-270116191918.jpeg)
For me it would be gray mortar and a light brushing.
8)
Quote from: ak-milw on January 27, 2016, 08:12:52 PM
For me it would be gray mortar and a light brushing.
8)
Andy
Thanks for the input. I'm playing with it this evening. I will post pictures when I get something I like.
I think the chalk method looks like it works better than paint and I need to use it next time I do stonework. Looks great. I don't have the scroll bars and see the pictures in their full sized glory. Is it a settings issue or my far superior Windows computer (poking a sleeping bear ;D ;D ;D ).
Jeff
John,
I like the walls. I do feel you need some sort of motor look between the stones, even if very slight.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on January 28, 2016, 08:42:56 AM
John,
I like the walls. I do feel you need some sort of motor look between the stones, even if very slight.
Tom ;D
Hi Tom
Yes - I agree. I took some pictures of the process I used. I will post them tonight.
After a couple attempts at adding mortar to the joints with the capillary action technique I decided to go back to my old standard. The process I used for the stone roundhouse. Here are a few pictures describing the process. First I'm using the Vallejo pigments - light slate grey in this case. I make a paint out of it with alcohol. If you have ever done any brick work it kinda looks like mortar.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-280116174131.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-280116174131.jpeg)
Next step is to cover the wall with it. I know the first time I did this I thought it would be a disaster. You can see what it looks like wet and after it has had a few minutes to dry in this picture. I started the removal process on the upper wall in this picture.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-280116175547.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-280116175547.jpeg)
After it has dried. I use a gummy eraser to remove the balk of the grey power off the surface of the stone leaving it in the cracks. Then I touch up the brown surface of the rocks with a sponge - I didn't add any more brown chalk to the sponge but this one has some on it from the original work.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-280116175653.jpeg)
So here is what the two walls that I processed today look like next to the walls without the process. What do you think?
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-280116175748.jpeg)
Very interesting technic for a very realistic result.
Thank for share this technic with us John
Eric Québec.
John,
WOW, what a difference. I love the stone work. Excellent job my friend.
Tom ;D
It works for me!
8)
I think I gotta get me some of those Vallejo pigments. Looks great.
Jeff
Looks great John! Thumbs up!
John M.
Quote from: S&S RR on January 11, 2016, 10:45:14 AM
Now, it's time to get out the saw and go to work removing some of my old layout inside the mountains.
DANGER, DANGER, Will Robinson!!!
That Siekirk creature is pullin' his saw out!!
Looks like stone walls to me ..... !
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.vahistorical.org%2Fsites%2Fdefault%2Ffiles%2Fuploads%2FVHE_StonewallJackson.1946.41.jpg&hash=51a8d23568350567eef5a6b5f66625aedaa4b4a1)
Quote from: EricQuebec on January 28, 2016, 06:33:41 PM
Very interesting technic for a very realistic result.
Thank for share this technic with us John
Eric Québec.
Eric
Thanks - if you look at a stone wall as a stone mason builds one it looks just like this does - it's all about getting the mortar off the stone surfaces before it hardens. In this case it only take a few minutes to take it off the surface and I'm happy with the way it looks. This is the same process I used on the stone roundhouse build. The pigment also get into the surface to lighten up the dark brown.
Quote from: ACL1504 on January 28, 2016, 06:34:40 PM
John,
WOW, what a difference. I love the stone work. Excellent job my friend.
Tom ;D
Tom
Thanks - now let's see if I can make the other two walls look the same.
Quote from: ak-milw on January 28, 2016, 07:14:11 PM
It works for me!
8)
Andy
Thanks for stopping by. I'm glad you like it.
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on January 28, 2016, 08:36:33 PM
I think I gotta get me some of those Vallejo pigments. Looks great.
Jeff
Jeff
I'm really sold on them. Not only adds the right color but also the texture.
Quote from: gnatshop on January 28, 2016, 09:42:31 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on January 11, 2016, 10:45:14 AM
Now, it's time to get out the saw and go to work removing some of my old layout inside the mountains.
DANGER, DANGER, Will Robinson!!!
That Siekirk creature is pullin' his saw out!!
David
Good to see that you stopped by - it has been awhile - I hope all is well. And yes it is dangerous when the saw comes out.
Quote from: Donato on January 28, 2016, 10:39:09 PM
Looks like stone walls to me ..... !
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.vahistorical.org%2Fsites%2Fdefault%2Ffiles%2Fuploads%2FVHE_StonewallJackson.1946.41.jpg&hash=51a8d23568350567eef5a6b5f66625aedaa4b4a1) (http://www.vahistorical.org/sites/default/files/uploads/VHE_StonewallJackson.1946.41.jpg)
Donato
Well that gentleman should know a stone wall when he sees it. Thanks for stopping by the thread.
Quote from: S&S RR on December 20, 2013, 10:27:49 PM
Index to the thread Updated 1/29/16. I will update this every time we add a few pages so we can go back and find different topics when necessary.
INDEX
Page 1 Changing forums - the benchwork
Page 2 Overview and Status in March of 2014
Page 3 A look back at the Benchwork and Paster work on the mountains,
Painting the Plaster work
The Photo Back Drops
Making Aspen Trees
Page 4 Making Pine Trees
Preparing the Talus Materials
Page 5 Prototype Photographs
Page 6 Prototype Photographs
Control Panel
Page 7 Layout Diagram "original plan"
Roundhouse Photographs
The Stone Roundhouse Build - start
Page 8 Stone Roundhouse Build - the walls
Page 9 Stone Roundhouse Build - the Roof
Page 10 Stone Roundhouse Build - Painting
Page 11 Laying more track
Planning the town of Sellios
Page 12 Testing track
Page 13 First Runs - lower track
Page 14 Benchwork and Town layout - Sellios
Page 15 Benchwork and Town layout - Sellios
Page 16 Track work in Sellios
Page 17 Planning Structure Placement - Sellios
Page 18 Logo for the Superior & Seattle Railroad
Page 19 Cedar Shingle Pine Tree armatures
Modeling in the Summer
Page 20 Roofing on the Stone Roundhouse
Page 21 Doors on the Stone Roundhouse
Page 22 More plaster work
Page 23 Installing the DCC System
Page 24 DCC System Discussion
Page 25 DCC System Installation
Page 26 DCC System Installation
Page 27 More track installation
Page 28 Track Testing
Page 29 Door production for the Stone Roundhouse
Page 30 Ballasting The Eagles Nest Yard
Page 31 Ballasting The Eagles Nest Yard
Page 32 Changes - moving mountains
Page 33 Adding some talus materials
Page 34 Stone Roundhouse Build - Tar Paper Roof
Page 35 Stone Roundhouse Build - Doors, Windows, Trim
Page 36 Planting Aspen Trees,
prototype pictures Aspen Trees
Page 37 Stone Roundhouse Build Trim, Front Stone Work
Pictures of Mountains with Fall Color
Page 38 The view through "Wayne's hole"
Page 39 Some overall room photographs of the layout
Page 40 Stone Roundhouse Build - Painting the trim
Page 41 Stone Roundhouse Build - Installing the Windows
Page 42 The A&I tube
Page 43 Stone Roundhouse Build - Painting the Roof
Page 44 Stone Roundhouse Build - Final pictures on the workbench
Stone Roundhouse Build - Moving and installing on the layout
Page 45 Stone Roundhouse Build - Installation pictures
Page 46 Discussion of storage on the benchwork
Page 47 New - flex shaft rotary tool
Page 48 The Eagles Nest Yard
Page 49 Kit discussion
Page 50 Scenery on Mt. Aiden
Page 51 Mt. Aiden Trestle Build - bents
Page 52 Testing coloring for the Trestle
Page 53 Start of scenery on Mt. Aiden
Page 54 Progress pictures scenery on Mt. Aiden
Page 55 Surveying for the Trestle
Stripwood for the Mt. Aiden Trestle
Casting the footings for the Mt. Aiden Trestle
Page 56 Changes in the Mountains
Page 57 Coloring the trestle footings
Page 58 Mt. Aiden Scenery progress pictures
Page 59 Setting the footings for the Mt. Aiden Trestle
Page 60 Mt. Aiden Trestle Build first Bents
Page 61 Staining Stripwood
Page 62 Mt. Aiden Trestle Build
Page 63 Mt. Aiden Trestle Build
Page 64 Trestle Build progress pictures
Page 65 Trestle Build progress pictures
Page 66 Painting Bolt Castings
Page 67 Installing Bolt Castings - Mt. Aiden Trestle
Page 68 Cutting more strip wood
Dealing with impatient forum members
Page 69 Adding retaining walls
Page 70 Trestle Build progress pictures
Page 71 Counting nut and bolt castings
Page 72 Mt. Aiden Trestle - the finishing process
Page 73 Adding Scenery to Mt. Aiden
Page 74 Building retaining wall for Mt. Aiden
Pine Tree Production
Page 75 Dead Pine Trees
Page 75 The Brambell's Build Start - What's in the box
Page 76 Brambell's - Site preparation on the Layout
Page 77 Brambell's - Making Extra Castings
Page 78 Brambell's - Changing the site plan to fit my location on the layout.
Page 79 Brambell's - Making Molds
Page 80 Brambell's - Painting the castings
Page 81 Brambell's - Preparing the background scenery
Page 82 FSM Sawmill reconditioning for the S&S RR.
Page 83 Brambell's - Fitting castings to my site.
Page 84 Brambell's - Castings - lessons learned
Page 85 Brambell's - Painting the castings
Page 86 Brambell's - Testing the base with castings on the layout
Page 87 Brambell's - Detail castings - preparation for painting
Brambell's - The warehouse walls
Page 88 New Tools
Page 89 Brambell's - Warehouse Assembly
Page 90 Brambell's - Painting the detail castings
Brambell's - The wood retaining wall
Page 91 Brambell's - More Warehouse Assembly
Page 92 Brambell's - adding detail castings
Page 93 Brambell's - Warehouse Roof Construction
Page 94 Brambell's - Adding the Hoist House
Brambell's - Adding the back deck
Brambell's - A test fit on the layout
Page 95 Brambell's - Adding the ground cover
Page 96 Brambell's - Adding the Warehouse back shed
Page 97 Brambell's - More details
Page 98 Brambell's - Building the front deck
Page 99 Brambell's - Building the Trestle
Page 100 Brambell's - The cement wall
Brambell's - The Trestle Deck
Page 101 Updating the index
Page 102 Brambell's - Rail Siding and Dock
Adding more trees
Page 103 Brambell's Front Office
Page 104 Brambell's Scale and Scale House
Page 105 Brambell's Adding Dirt
Brambell's Test Plant on Layout
Page 106 Changes, Dad's, and the old layout
Page 107 Working in the Mountain
Page 108 Brambell's The Details
Page 108 Brambell's Finish Pictures on the Workbench
Page 108 A clean workbench
Page 109 Chippy Hollow Build Start
Page 110 Another Trestle Build
Page 111 More Pine Tree Production
Chippy Hollow Painting the wall castings
Index updated tonight - it has been about 10 pages
Today, I got started on the trestle build by setting the footings. I had some patch work to do - then filled in the area with sand. It will be a few hours before all that glue dries.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-300116200623.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-300116200623.jpeg)
I have lots of scenery work to do (a tunnel portal, lots of trees and ground cover, and some rock moldings to paint) behind the trestle before I can start building.
While I had the camera out I took a picture of Wayne Olson putting some of the final track work in near the roundhouse. The roundhouse has been removed to gain access to the area. When this work is complete the roundhouse will be permanently mounted to the benchwork and I can do the detail work on it.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-300116200700.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-300116200700.jpeg)
John,
I re-read all this thread today, and You have for sure an incredible and fantastic Layout.
The sum of techniques presentations make one future references for me when will come the time to build my own layout.
Thank to take the time to share your experience with us.
Eric Québec
Quote from: EricQuebec on January 31, 2016, 10:36:06 AM
John,
I re-read all this thread today, and You have for sure an incredible and fantastic Layout.
The sum of techniques presentations make one future references for me when will come the time to build my own layout.
Thank to take the time to share your experience with us.
Eric Québec
Eric
Thanks for following the thread - when I started this thread it was because I wished I had access to this kind of information when I started out. To me this is what the forums have to add to the hobby. I try to add the techniques that work and even those that didn't. I hope you find something that helps with your layout - and I'm looking forward to watching your build thread ;) .
Looks like Wayne didn't even take notice of you as he was so hard at work.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on January 31, 2016, 06:30:06 PM
Looks like Wayne didn't even take notice of you as he was so hard at work.
Tom ;D
Tom
I think your right!
Well, today I got some wall castings out to start another structure build. I need to make some parts for this one and also buy some window castings. Some of you may recognize the castings as the Chicago Meat Packing kit (Anyone know which window castings fit?) - I can't remember where I got this kit but it's not complete - no window castings for one thing. I may try boarding up the windows and see if I like it before I buy the castings. I also have a few new castings that I have to pour for the sides to make the structure as deep as I want it. And as I always do - I have some modifications that I want to make to some of the castings. A rail siding door for one. Anyway, I took some pictures so I could see what it would look like on the layout and thought I would share them. I guess you could call these prebuild pictures.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-310116202023.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-310116202023.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-310116202053.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-310116202053.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-310116202129.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-310116202129.jpeg)
Here are the pictures I took to have on my phone for the EXPO - if I decide to go window casting shopping. Does anyone know of a window casting that will fit?
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-310116203859.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-310116203945.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-310116204019.jpeg)
I found the clear plastic for the windows in the box but no window castings.
Go to the Tichy web site, they have a few sizes of arch top windows.
8)
John,
Was that an old Downtown Deco Limited run kit from way back when ?
Quote from: tom.boyd.125 on February 01, 2016, 01:37:46 AM
John,
Was that an old Downtown Deco Limited run kit from way back when ?
Tom
Yes it is - I can't remember where I bought it but it is not complete.
Quote from: S&S RR on February 01, 2016, 07:35:08 AM
Quote from: tom.boyd.125 on February 01, 2016, 01:37:46 AM
John,
Was that an old Downtown Deco Limited run kit from way back when ?
Tom
Yes it is - I can't remember where I bought it but it is not complete.
I have some walls from DD, they don't belong to a kit , they're just walls , maybe the same for you.
Quote from: Janbouli on February 01, 2016, 04:07:49 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on February 01, 2016, 07:35:08 AM
Quote from: tom.boyd.125 on February 01, 2016, 01:37:46 AM
John,
Was that an old Downtown Deco Limited run kit from way back when ?
Tom
Yes it is - I can't remember where I bought it but it is not complete.
I have some walls from DD, they don't belong to a kit , they're just walls , maybe the same for you.
Hi Jan
I believe this is the Chicago Meat Packaging Kit that I picked up on eBay years ago. This was the start of me dropping the use of eBay when they proved to me that their insurance on buys was worthless.
If it's Downtown Deco maybe Randy can figure out what kind of windows it had.
Jeff
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on February 01, 2016, 08:49:53 PM
If it's Downtown Deco maybe Randy can figure out what kind of windows it had.
Jeff
Hi Jeff
I think that Tichy has some that will fit - I'm ordering them and we will see. I was going to board the windows up but decided I wanted to have lights in the background so I'll add some LED's to the build. This structure will also serve as the backdrop for two FSM kit builds to come.
Yesterday, I added 50 pine trees, and lots of ground cover behind the trestle build. Also, started putting the track on the Mt. Aiden Trestle. I will try to remember to take some pictures today.
John...
I know that Grandt had the dimensions of their windows on their pages. I'm guessing that Tichy does also. I'm not experienced with the Tichy line other than what comes in the kits.
see ya
Bob
Quote from: bparrish on February 02, 2016, 12:44:07 PM
John...
I know that Grandt had the dimensions of their windows on their pages. I'm guessing that Tichy does also. I'm not experienced with the Tichy line other than what comes in the kits.
see ya
Bob
No they don't. The website is a bit dated. If they do modernize, I hope they DO add the dimensions to their items (where necessary).
Quote from: bparrish on February 02, 2016, 12:44:07 PM
John...
I know that Grandt had the dimensions of their windows on their pages. I'm guessing that Tichy does also. I'm not experienced with the Tichy line other than what comes in the kits.
see ya
Bob
Bob
Thanks for the input - I went with the Tichy windows because the size looked like it will fit. The Grandt Line arch top windows were too wide.
Quote from: Donato on February 02, 2016, 03:12:09 PM
Quote from: bparrish on February 02, 2016, 12:44:07 PM
John...
I know that Grandt had the dimensions of their windows on their pages. I'm guessing that Tichy does also. I'm not experienced with the Tichy line other than what comes in the kits.
see ya
Bob
No they don't. The website is a bit dated. If they do modernize, I hope they DO add the dimensions to their items (where necessary).
Donato
I don't know if they updated their site since you were last there but they had the dimensions. At least on the masonry windows page with the Arched top. I didn't look around other than for what I was looking for. Take a look and see. It turned out that the Tichy windows look like what Randy designed the kit for. At least I hope they work I'm ordering them. Thanks for your input.
John...
I went to both the Grandt and Tichy page and found the dimensions. Grandt has long list pages but Tichy only shows the dimensions when you select a particular product.
I know from hanging around with Rick Steele at Labelle that he and other manufacturers like Tichy as they have a better pricing structure for manufacturers.
Almost every one is using the Tichy brake rigging casting sprue for early Westinghouse brakes.
see ya
Bob
Quote from: bparrish on February 02, 2016, 04:42:33 PM
John...
I went to both the Grandt and Tichy page and found the dimensions. Grandt has long list pages but Tichy only shows the dimensions when you select a particular product.
I know from hanging around with Rick Steele at Labelle that he and other manufacturers like Tichy as they have a better pricing structure for manufacturers.
Almost every one is using the Tichy brake rigging casting sprue for early Westinghouse brakes.
see ya
Bob
Bob
Thanks for the follow-up - Looks like it will be about $18 bucks with shipping for the window castings I need for this project. I need to check if I need anything for the S&S RR machine shop before I press the send button.
I think I will be spending a lot of time on those two websites over the next few years with all the scratch build projects I have in mind.
I have been using Tichy products for years, I prefer them over Grandt line. Very helpful bunch over there when you contact them. I recently purchased their small water tower kit and was missing a part, I had it in three days.
8)
Quote from: ak-milw on February 02, 2016, 06:18:03 PM
I have been using Tichy products for years, I prefer them over Grandt line. Very helpful bunch over there when you contact them. I recently purchased their small water tower kit and was missing a part, I had it in three days.
8)
Thanks Andy
Good to know!
Today, Wayne Olson came over to work on the layout before he heads off to work on Frank's (Erieman's) layout for a couple months. It seems that he likes the weather there this time of the year. I have decided to stick it out in the not so snowy north country and work on my layout this year. So Wayne spent the day doing some wiring in the yard and testing the track work now that the ballast is done (only two places that I need to fix some drop wires). Wayne does good work.
I added some more trees and put the track on the Mt. Aiden Trestle. I turned my back and found Wayne's test train on the trestle. Here's a photograph of the first train sitting on the trestle. BTW 941 is a great test engine because of the oversize flanges that make sure there is no ballast in the wrong place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-020216203544.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-020216203544.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-020216203610.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-020216203610.jpeg)
Wayne safe travels and have fun on your trip.
Frank - work him hard so he doesn't complain about how hard he has to work at my place. I expect to see pictures of more trees on the Morristown & Erie RR. I'm sending my best help out there. ;)
If Wayne pokes his head up and sees a moving train, does that mean there's 6 more weeks of wiring? ;D
dave
Train looks great on the trestle.....great work John. 8)
Mighty fine railroad you got for yourself! You are moving right along on this large project. Mighty fine!
Dave
Seattle
Quote from: deemery on February 03, 2016, 07:40:07 AM
If Wayne pokes his head up and sees a moving train, does that mean there's 6 more weeks of wiring? ;D
dave
Dave
I like that ;D . I think we have more than 6 weeks and Wayne is headed South-West to find the sun.
Quote from: GPdemayo on February 03, 2016, 08:18:56 AM
Train looks great on the trestle.....great work John. 8)
Thanks Greg
Quote from: DACS on February 03, 2016, 10:12:34 AM
Mighty fine railroad you got for yourself! You are moving right along on this large project. Mighty fine!
Dave
Seattle
Dave
Thanks for kind words and for stopping by the thread. We are making progress.
It been a couple days since I posted a progress report. I have been busy working on the layout, and not taking time to take pictures. So tonight here are a few progress pictures and and update.
First, on the warehouse that I'm building for the back of the yard - I ordered the Tichy windows two days ago and they showed up in my mail box this evening. They fit! So we will be off and running on this project next week. I have some latex rubber on order that I need to duplicate some castings that is supposed to arrive tomorrow.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-310116202129.jpeg)
On the trestle build - I've been working on the scenery behind the trestle - so far I've added approximately 50 pine trees and 50 aspen trees, along with some ground foam. Tomorrow I plan on painting the rocks - starting with a touchup of the base color - they have taken a beating from all the work that need to be done in the area. The cement foundations have been glued in and need to be painted before I can add the dirt that is needed in the area.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-050216193844.jpeg)
And finally for tonight, the Chippy Hollow build progress. I decided to do a what's on my workbench photo for this one. When I finished for the night the gallery glass was drying in the window castings. The castings have all been painted, the wood spacers have been glued to the wall castings. So first thing tomorrow I will glue the window castings in the walls and it will be time for some assembly work. The castings for this kit are some of the most challenging I've ever seen. I think I have gone through a box of tooth picks on this one.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-050216193650.jpeg)
I love seeing long/large factory buildings. Too often our buildings are way too "foreshortened" and look out of scale against our cars.
dave
Quote from: deemery on February 06, 2016, 08:56:06 AM
I love seeing long/large factory buildings. Too often our buildings are way too "foreshortened" and look out of scale against our cars.
dave
Well Dave, your going to really love this structure because I think I'm going to make it one casting width longer. If I can make the change of angle look right. I poured the castings today so we can take a look. Thanks for following along.
John,
I'm looking forward to seeing what you do and how you finish the Downtown Deco walls. I was going through my stash and I have eight of those walls from Randy. He offered a special, buy four and he'll throw in an additional four. I think it's close to 8 ft. total.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 06, 2016, 06:08:51 PM
John,
I'm looking forward to seeing what you do and how you finish the Downtown Deco walls. I was going through my stash and I have eight of those walls from Randy. He offered a special, buy four and he'll throw in an additional four. I think it's close to 8 ft. total.
Tom ;D
Hi Tom
I know I will use at least three, maybe four, for this application. I'm making some extra side wall castings because the 2 inch depth just will not work in the curve. The castings look good - I'm playing with the idea of making them all one color rather than the mix and match that is pictured on the box. This structure will be the backdrop for a couple FSM kits I have planned for the area. Fox Run will go right in front of it. Red brick as a backdrop for a wood structure like Fox Run? Time for some testing.
I received the shipment from MicroMart yesterday, so the new molds have been poured for the warehouse project. I also, did a test pour for a different wall section to make the warehouse longer.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-070216082358.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-070216082429.jpeg)
Today, I got the rock work painted behind the new trestle. It has been awhile sense I painted rock work but it came back to me real quick once I got a few colors on. I should be able to finish up the scenery and get started on the trestle build tomorrow.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-070216174330.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-070216174330.jpeg)
The castings for the warehouse are in the paint booth with the first coat of premier drying. I have to figure out a color scheme for that build tomorrow.
A few steps got completed on the Chippy Hollow build since my last update. First the window and door castings were finished and glued on. I glued them on with super glue just to hold them in place then, per George's instructions I used lots of glue around them to make sure they were staying put, and also in my case, to keep any light from shining out around them.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-070216174403.jpeg)
Next step was to add a couple shades using paint - I used a dark green. This picture shows the wall castings just before I started to assemble them.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-070216174432.jpeg)
And now for the assembly process - I use lots of clamps and make sure the first two walls are together square before moving on. I'm using 5 min. epoxy to glue the main castings together.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-070216175824.jpeg)
Lookin' good John.
8)
That chocolate brown on pale yellow works very well with the stonework - nice choice. I always add some tacky glue around my windows after initially attaching with CA too. I just don't trust that stuff to hold for ever.
Looking good as always, John. You are an inspiration to us all - your work ethic being second to none!
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: mark dalrymple on February 07, 2016, 10:44:12 PM
That chocolate brown on pale yellow works very well with the stonework - nice choice. I always add some tacky glue around my windows after initially attaching with CA too. I just don't trust that stuff to hold for ever.
Looking good as always, John. You are an inspiration to us all - your work ethic being second to none!
Cheers, Mark.
Thanks for the kind words Mark.
Today, the four walls of the main stone building for Chippy Hollow were assembled. You will notice that I'm getting a little shine off the stones - I sprayed it with matt spray to fix the powders. I think I will be adding some powder to dull it back down.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-080216195314.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-080216195314.jpeg)
My other big project today was to take another look at how long I wanted to make the warehouse in the back of the yard. I decided to add two more wall sections and go around the corner a little ways with it. It is amazing how much more depth you get when you add that structure. Here are a few pictures of the configuration I think I'm going to go with. I have decide to go with a red brick - I think this will look good as a backdrop for Fox Run which will go right in front of this structure. The plywood in-front of the warehouse is the base for that build. I will have some elevation work to do, but that is the footprint. I have a number of kits planned for this strip of plywood that splits the yard including a coaling tower, a icing platform and a number of small industries.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-080216195243.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-080216195410.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-080216195243.jpeg)
Here is a picture of my sample piece with the red brick and the mortar. I haven't decided if I want to add a black brick random pattern to the bricks. Another option will be to add some darker areas and weather it up with black soot. This is in a yard with years of steam locomotives leaving their mark.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-080216200106.jpeg)
I also played with the idea of adding two more stories to part of the warehouse but when I mocked this up it made the scene loose depth. Here are a couple of photographs.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-080216195553.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-080216195553.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-080216195520.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-080216195520.jpeg)
The castings for the warehouse are making their way through the paint booth.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-100216210015.jpeg)
The Superior & Seattle Railroad took delivery today of two more locomotives. They were acquired new from the GN Railroad and will support GN paint schemes and numbers for the foreseeable future. GN number 2870 and 2878 S2 4-8-4's were added to the rooster. Number 2579 is shown here on the Mt. Aiden Trestle. These are the new BLI Hybrid releases.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-100216210058.jpeg)
I tell you John, you are making very rapid progress on your railroad. It's a fine example of the art. Love the loco on the trestle. She's a real beauty!
Dave
Seattle
Quote from: DACS on February 10, 2016, 09:48:28 PM
I tell you John, you are making very rapid progress on your railroad. It's a fine example of the art. Love the loco on the trestle. She's a real beauty!
Dave
Seattle
Dave
Thanks for the kind words and stopping by the thread. I'm having a great time working on this layout.
Great looking loci and trestle. Tried to convince myself I could use one, as a GN 'loaner' to the CB&Q, but I have enough 4-8-4s for fast freights already.
Jeff
John,
That BLI GN 4-8-4 is a real beauty. How does it run and sound?
I weathered a BLI Reading T1 4-8-4 for Bob and his runs and sound great.
Tom ;D
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on February 11, 2016, 02:49:05 PM
Great looking loci and trestle. Tried to convince myself I could use one, as a GN 'loaner' to the CB&Q, but I have enough 4-8-4s for fast freights already.
Jeff
Jeff
Thanks for stopping buy the thread - if these engines run as good as the look I will be very happy I added a couple more to the rooster.
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 11, 2016, 06:51:31 PM
John,
That BLI GN 4-8-4 is a real beauty. How does it run and sound?
I weathered a BLI Reading T1 4-8-4 for Bob and his runs and sound great.
Tom ;D
Tom
I will answer that question as soon as I get my DCC system back up and running. I took it down to make some changes to the control panel - I'm getting ready to add the power districts for the upper levels. Stay tuned I will let you know.
Today, I finished the scenery work behind the new trestle and glued the first three bents in place. This is going to be an interesting build lying on my side on the little bridge I made to get site for this trestle.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-110216200254.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-110216200254.jpeg)
And here are a couple progress photographs of the Chippy Hollow Build. The roof is going on the stone building.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-110216200351.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-110216200327.jpeg)
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 11, 2016, 06:51:31 PM
John,
That BLI GN 4-8-4 is a real beauty. How does it run and sound?
I weathered a BLI Reading T1 4-8-4 for Bob and his runs and sound great.
Tom ;D
And now that you weathered it it looks great too! ;D
Quote from: ReadingBob on February 12, 2016, 03:45:51 PM
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 11, 2016, 06:51:31 PM
John,
That BLI GN 4-8-4 is a real beauty. How does it run and sound?
I weathered a BLI Reading T1 4-8-4 for Bob and his runs and sound great.
Tom ;D
And now that you weathered it it looks great too! ;D
It is amazing how steam locomotives just look better with dirt on them.
I started adding the cross braces on the trestle today. I may need to cut more strip wood to get this one finished.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-120216200230.jpeg)
The warehouse project is also rolling along - I started painting the first of 5 front wall castings.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-120216201057.jpeg)
I also made some progress on the Chippy Hollow build - added the shingles to the stone building. Next step is lots of roof detail casings.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-120216200302.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-120216200302.jpeg)
Juhn,
The high trestle, the warehouse and Chippy's! It just can't get any better than that! Love it all.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 13, 2016, 07:39:43 AM
Juhn,
The high trestle, the warehouse and Chippy's! It just can't get any better than that! Love it all.
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom
I guess I'm on a roll - actually have four projects going at the same time and it's working just fine. I'm also working on the wiring for the upper level. Crawling on the floor pulling wires isn't as easy as it once was.
Quote from: S&S RR on February 13, 2016, 08:24:33 AM
I guess I'm on a roll - actually have four projects going at the same time and it's working just fine. I'm also working on the wiring for the upper level. Crawling on the floor pulling wires isn't as easy as it once was.
I have A LOT more than 4 projects 'stopped' at the same time :-) When I get home, I'll post a photo of my Downtown Deco flat, it's a nice starting point.
dave
Quote from: deemery on February 14, 2016, 05:52:22 AM
Quote from: S&S RR on February 13, 2016, 08:24:33 AM
I guess I'm on a roll - actually have four projects going at the same time and it's working just fine. I'm also working on the wiring for the upper level. Crawling on the floor pulling wires isn't as easy as it once was.
I have A LOT more than 4 projects 'stopped' at the same time :-) When I get home, I'll post a photo of my Downtown Deco flat, it's a nice starting point.
dave
Dave
I would like to see what you did with it - this structure is going to be in the background so I'm trying not to get to carried away with detail. The viewer will be 4 feet from it and there will be many structures and details in front of it.
John it took me a few days off and on but I managed to review your entire thread and its absolutely amazing and so many neat projects you went through. My wife is on me steady to put some kind of flooring down in my layout rooms, its a disaster, yours is so nice and neat and organized. Mountains are amazing.
Quote from: lynn boyd on February 14, 2016, 11:09:02 AM
John it took me a few days off and on but I managed to review your entire thread and its absolutely amazing and so many neat projects you went through. My wife is on me steady to put some kind of flooring down in my layout rooms, its a disaster, yours is so nice and neat and organized. Mountains are amazing.
Hi Lynn
First, since I noticed you are just starting to post on the forum I want to welcome you to the forum. I have made some great friends here and I know you will too.
Yes - I have many projects behind me on this layout but even more yet to do - I hope you will follow along. A word of caution on the flooring in my train room. It was very expensive. It is the repurposed flooring from our kitchen that I saved when we remodeled the kitchen. Our kitchen has tile flooring now, and new cabinets, and new granite countertops (I saved the sink cutout for a layout table), and new appliances and well you get the picture. $and$and$and$
So be careful when the wife asks you to put new flooring in your train room - she may have talked to my wife.
Make sure you check out some of the other layout threads here. And again thanks for stopping by.
The last couple of days I've been under the weather - head cold. So progress has been slow. I managed to get some painting done on the warehouse wall castings.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-150216190437.jpeg)
I painted the wood doors earth color and the window molding chocolate brown.
Next step was to add the mortar for the bricks - I like using a higher gray for this and then toning it down with Alcohol & Ink.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-150216190411.jpeg)
I'm using the frosted glass inserts that came with the window castings.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-150216190508.jpeg)
Here is a progress picture of the brown brick castings with and without the cement and mortar.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-150216190535.jpeg)
And finally, here is the red brick wall castings at the end of the day. I little touchup and they will be ready to assemble.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-150216191105.jpeg)
And here are the brown brick wall castings at the end of the day. I need to do some touchup on these also and we will be ready to start assembling the structure.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-150216191134.jpeg)
John, here's my DD flat next to a Monster Modelworks flat. The doors were painted with burnt umber. These sit behind the roundhouse.
dave
Quote from: deemery on February 16, 2016, 09:18:00 AM
John, here's my DD flat next to a Monster Modelworks flat. The doors were painted with burnt umber. These sit behind the roundhouse.
dave
They look great Dave.
The more I look at mine and where they are going to be located I think I'm going to weather them like they are at the edge of a steam locomotive yard. They will be about 4 feet from the viewer and behind other structures.
Today, I got back on the trestle project - added 2 more bents and more cross bracing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170216211748.jpeg)
I also did some weathering of the walls for the warehouse. To me these walls look much better with steam engine crime.
First here are the red brick walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-150216191105.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-150216191105.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170216212022.jpeg)
Next we have the brown brick walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170216211822.jpeg)
This is the one story structure that will go on the far left side.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170216211907.jpeg)
Looks like the masons ran up that wall after drinking their lunch..... ;D ;D ;D
Quote from: GPdemayo on February 18, 2016, 09:11:34 AM
Looks like the masons ran up that wall after drinking their lunch..... ;D ;D ;D
I think it's from all those steam locomotives running by. ;)
Today, I made more progress on the trestle build - added the rest of the bents and more cross bracing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-180216193923.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-180216193923.jpeg)
I also started assembling the warehouse in the back of the yard - the main wall castings are in place in this photograph.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-180216193850.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-180216193850.jpeg)
This past week while I was feeling under the weather I spent a few hours at the computer updating the CADRAIL design for the layout. After numerous unsuccessful attempts at getting the design posted directly here on the forum. I reverted to taking pictures off the screen with my iPhone. This results in some distortion but it's better than taking pictures of hardcopy. So as requested, in the next few posts I will walk you through the layout plan. The computer package that I'm using also provides some fun facts about the layout.
This first picture show the overall design with most of the details turned off so you can see the rooms and the track work. Each color for the track represents a different power district for the DCC System. I'm using NCE for my DCC System.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170216215309.jpeg)
To give you a feel for the size of the rooms the L-shaped room that makes up the current layout is about 1600 square feet. When the additional expansions take place the layout will be about 2200 square feet. Please understand that I'm the President of the railroad and my agreement with the CEO is that the current area must be complete before I start the expansions. I will make no predictions on when that will happen - it's a hobby - I'm having a great time building this layout but I spent enough of my life dealing with project deadlines and impossible timing.
In this next photograph I have turned on all the labels which will be very useful once we have zoomed in to a specific section of the layout.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170216215116.jpeg)
That is a very ambitious plan John. What I did to post my plan from 3rd Planit is I printed the file to an Adobe printer and then changed the file to a JPG file format.
Quote from: sdrees on February 18, 2016, 08:20:15 PM
That is a very ambitious plan John. What I did to post my plan from 3rd Planit is I printed the file to an Adobe printer and then changed the file to a JPG file format.
Thanks for the tip - I tried that with CADRAIL but the resolution was terrible once I posted it to the forum. I hope these pictures will work.
I'm starting the zooming in process with the top left of the overall diagram and the office. This room serves as my home office with all of the usual office equipment. I'm currently using it for the consulting work that I'm doing in retirement to earn EXPO bucks. It is also where I have my coffee break and sign on to the forum. This room also served as my wife's office when the kids were growing up, but she doesn't use it now that she has her own space up stairs. That is why I have her side is listed as future expansion.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-180216203702.jpeg)
This area will be a future design project when the existing layout is getting closer to completion.
Moving to the right on our overall diagram brings us into the current layout room. This 20 x 20 foot room at one point had four walls and was home to my original layout. The wall west wall was removed during one of the expansions of the original layout.
First a few words of explanation about the diagrams:
The brown lines are the railing that follows the layout all the way around the room. This is where the viewer can stand.
The light brown lines at the edge of the drawing is the edge of the room.
All of the track is color coded according to the power district (A-J at this point).
Each block of track on the layout has number and a switch so it can be turned off for trouble shooting or to turn the sound system off on a locomotive if necessary.
The code is for example 21B = Block 21 in power district B. I can turn off power districts and then each individual block within a power district with the flip of a switch. I come in very handy when someone leaves the rail nippers shorting out the track in one of the tunnels inside a mountain. Within minutes we know where to go look. I can't imagine how long that process would take without the switches. Yes - wiring the layout this way takes more time but I have already got that time back with savings in trouble shooting.
The code for 103HR6 = block 103, power district H, reversing loop 6
The Narrow Gauge HOn3 tack has the label N and is the highest elevation on the layout.
A few of the structures that are either already on the layout or planned can be seen in black.
The layout is designed on four levels but the scenery is designed to blend all four levels into one scene. I wanted to create big mountain scenes so depth was very important. From the viewer to the back drop is more than six feet. In this room you are surrounded by mountains.
A sawmill and locomotive service area will be the main structures on the left side of this diagram. On the right a large town will be built with many structures (The name of the town will be Sellios in honor of George Sellios). This town will have many FSM kits.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-180216203817.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-180216203817.jpeg)
With this next diagram we move away from the east wall and along the south wall. At this point the complete town of Sellios is visible on the right. And on the left we have the area of Horseshoe Mountain - which is a seaport town. The seaport town is surrounded by mountains with both the narrow gauge and standard gauge railroads running above the town.
At the very bottom right of this diagram is the start of the 7 foot long Mt. Aiden Trestle.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170216215013.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170216215013.jpeg)
Moving farther to the West in this diagram we can see the complete Mt. Aiden trestle - the land bridge and then the new trestle that I'm working on currently. (see block 16A).
On the left side the track work goes through the tunnels which were strategically placed to serve as view framers. This was the result of a comment that Wayne Olson made when the plaster mountains were all still raw white plaster. Wayne made the comment that it was a shame not to have a view from this room all the way into the corner of the other room. The mountain in this area had to be there to block a construction post. So from this conversation the Wayne's hole tunnel was born. See pictures elsewhere in the tread (remember the index on page 1 if you have trouble).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170216214942.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170216214942.jpeg)
In this diagram we have moved farther to the left. In this area another large town will be built - the vision for this area is a town on a hill - starting at waist level and extending to a sky backdrop near the ceiling. I plan on building a clay mockup of this area before construction begins. I know what I want it to look like but don't know about the proportions until I make a mockup. This is one end of the layout but will not be Seattle. The tunnel portal that leads to the reversing loops under the city will read Seattle.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170216214842.jpeg)
Moving farther to the west and back to the south wall we have Eagles Nest Yard. This is the area that I'm currently working in. The warehouse that I'm working on is in the lower right corner. The trestle and the location for the Chippy's Hollow is in the top right.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170216214543.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170216214625.jpeg)
Now that we have reached the West Wall we start moving to the North along the wall.
The scenic area of the layout ends with the hillside behind the Roundhouse and turntable. As part of the shelves for my work areas I have built in storage yards for rolling stock and locomotives. There are two levels to these yards so the upper level is shown offset in the diagrams.
The first work area consists of three work surfaces and lots of storage cabinets. This is where I do most of my structure builds.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170216214656.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170216214656.jpeg)
Moving farther to the North we reach my main workroom where I have 4 different workbenches, a paint booth, a laundry sink, and all the mechanical stuff for the house (water heater, furnace, etc.). In this room is also the reversing loop for all the trains on the layout. This is temporary - until the Town of Superior gets built on the other side of the wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170216214805.jpeg)
At this point we move farther North and into what is now the family room in our basement. As the family room turns into the crew quarters ( I hope the CEO doesn't see this) the layout benchwork will be chest high. The big screen TV and Stereo will be built in under the layout along with some special storage and book shelves. There is room for staging tracks in the hall way. The plan right now is to model the copper mining areas that I explored while I was in college at Michigan Tech. The Portage Lake, the Smelters and on top of the hill the mine heads. This area was served by both standard and narrow gauge so the modeling can go in many directions. Again, this area will be designed as the current layout nears completion.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-180216221159.jpeg)
So since you asked, that's my plan for the layout as it stands tonight. ;) Any changes will be announced on a as need bases.
A few statistics about the layout design:
- The current design has 10 Power Districts.
- 104 track blocks.
- 72 turnouts.
- 9 reversing loops.
There are 11,638.785 inches of track = 970 feet = Approximately 16 HO Scale Miles. About 40 percent of this is currently installed and operational.
That looks like an exhibit for the campaign to bring the EXPO to the Michigan tundra :D
Awesome. World class!
John
John,
Wow, that's a lot of work going on in Michigan. Great track plan.
Tom ;D
Thanks for the layout design posting John.....I've wondered how all those great scenes go together. 8)
Quote from: Cuse on February 19, 2016, 06:08:49 AM
That looks like an exhibit for the campaign to bring the EXPO to the Michigan tundra :D
Awesome. World class!
John
Thanks for the kind words John. After going through the layout plan last night I reminded myself how much work there is to be done. I enjoy the doing, so it gets done when it gets done.
I got back on the Chippy Hollow build today. My progress picture for the day is gluing the gutters "You just have to have the right stack-up".
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190216195252.jpeg)
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 19, 2016, 08:29:54 AM
John,
Wow, that's a lot of work going on in Michigan. Great track plan.
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom
The work is in the implementation of the plan. We have to work to stay warm up here.
Quote from: GPdemayo on February 19, 2016, 08:47:11 AM
Thanks for the layout design posting John.....I've wondered how all those great scenes go together. 8)
Greg
Thanks for stopping by the thread - it was time to give everyone a feel for the layout design.
Looks very good John, you have your work cut out for ya. Now I know where the sink, water heater and workbench are lol.
Quote from: Twopoint2 on February 20, 2016, 02:53:40 PM
Looks very good John, you have your work cut out for ya. Now I know where the sink, water heater and workbench are lol.
Jim
Thanks for stopping by the thread and the kind words. Knowing where the water heater and everything else is when your designing can solve lots of problems later on - like when we replaced the furnace a couple years ago.
One of the guys in our local rail gang had to tear out part of his layout to get at the water heater
.
Today's post is a process/product review. A few months ago I purchased some mold material from MicroMart that you put in the microwave to liquify and pour a mold. Then you can remelt the mold and use the material again. Sounds great and a lot cheaper than the traditional mold materials. I needed a second pier casting for my trestle project that was half the depth as my original so I thought it would be a good time to try this stuff.
Here is a Picture of the top of the container it comes in.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-220216192517.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-220216192517.jpeg)
Here is a picture of the mold box with the original pier casting still in the mold.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-200216225052.jpeg)
The traditional latex mold in the background is for a roof detail casting that I need for the warehouse project so while I have the plaster out I'm doing both. I also always have a couple molds on the bench for future projects just in-case I have to much plaster in a batch and want to use it up for useful castings. I hate wasting this stuff.
This is a picture of the mold after the original is removed. I left the mold box around it just in-case it need more support. I removed the original casting by cutting the bottom out of the mold box.
I should point out that the artist board that I used really sticks to this material. I have never had that problem with the traditional mold materials.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-200216225010.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-200216225010.jpeg)
So here is a picture of the first casting out of the mold. Not bad for a quick mold job and it will work fine for my project. I noticed that the plaster tended to stick to the mold material but quickly washed out the mold and poured a second casting. I always make two - just in case one decides to find the floor.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-200216225143.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-200216225143.jpeg)
So it's when I removed the second casting from the mold that I discovered the problem. All the detail was gone. It turns out that the heat that is generated by the plaster curing process is enough to melt the mold material. I also lost detail by washing the mold out but it had to be done to make a second casting.
Has anyone else tried this material and had the same problem?
I'm also wondering if the same thing would happen if you poured resign? I know it also gets warm as it cures. Any way, this is my lesson learned from today. This material is okay for one outs but that looks like it is about it.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-220216195100.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-220216195100.jpeg)
One final picture - I broke up the mold and put it back in the microwave to get ready for the next time I try to use it. Here is the after pictures of the material back in the original containers.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-220216195429.jpeg)
I lost about half of one container washing the stuff getting the paper off from the artist board. It was melting with warm water.
Finally for tonight, here are the piers painted and installed on the layout. They will support a wood deck that will support the trestle bents over the lower tracks. I decided to have the piers parallel the lower tracks and the trestle bents will be at an angle to complete the curve of the upper track.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-220216200107.jpeg)
John, nice review of an interesting product. Great lessons learned in there!
dave
Quote from: deemery on February 22, 2016, 08:16:23 PM
John, nice review of an interesting product. Great lessons learned in there!
dave
Thanks Dave
Today, I got back on the trestle build - added more cross-bracing and started building the wood deck for the span across the lower tracks.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-240216205115.jpeg)
Also, made some progress on the Chippy Hollow build. The wood for the wood platform received a bath of alcohol and chalk. The main substructure for the platform was assembled and is ready for the deck as soon as it dries overnight.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-240216205004.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-240216205053.jpeg)
Hi,
you´re doing fantastic work on your layout and all those fine builds going on. I´ve never used some kind of molding material. I always use silicone for resin castings. Never seen something like that. Maybe it will also happen when you will pour resin instead of plaster.
Keep up with your nice progress.
Regards,Chris
Quote from: Twist67 on February 25, 2016, 06:40:30 AM
Hi,
you´re doing fantastic work on your layout and all those fine builds going on. I´ve never used some kind of molding material. I always use silicone for resin castings. Never seen something like that. Maybe it will also happen when you will pour resin instead of plaster.
Keep up with your nice progress.
Regards,Chris
Thanks for stopping by the thread Chris. I'm treating this thread as a build thread to report the processes and methods I'm using to create the layout - both good and bad. I ordered some more latex material for the molds I need for an upcoming project.
Thanks for the kind words.
Very ambitious and very good work John. So, can you operate the entire railroad on your own, or does it take a crew of...?
Dave
Seattle
A bath of alcohol and chalk?
Would you be able to elaborate a little - or point me to where you have given more details of this technique (if you have) please?
Always enjoy your thread, John. I find the way you multi task keeps my interest easily.
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: DACS on February 25, 2016, 10:24:42 AM
Very ambitious and very good work John. So, can you operate the entire railroad on your own, or does it take a crew of...?
Dave
Seattle
Dave
Thanks for stopping by - to answer your question about operations - I have designed it to be operated by 3- 6 people currently. When I get to the two planned expansions it will handle up to a dozen operators. I have been getting lots of operations experience with local layouts that are much farther along. Many of the changes I've made to the design in the past couple of years has been as a result of that operations experience.
Quote from: mark dalrymple on February 25, 2016, 03:35:47 PM
A bath of alcohol and chalk?
Would you be able to elaborate a little - or point me to where you have given more details of this technique (if you have) please?
Always enjoy your thread, John. I find the way you multi task keeps my interest easily.
Cheers, Mark.
Sorry Mark - I was tired last night when I wrote that post. For this build I'm using the Brett Gallant Sierra West Scale Models technique of using Rembrandt Pastel Chalks with alcohol to weather the loading platform on my Chippy Hollow build. I want to be careful here - Brett taught me the technique at a clinic - I think at one of the Narrow Gauge Conventions a few years back. So if he didn't invent the technique sorry to the inventor.
Brett has a very nice video of the technique if you want to take a look - craftsman kit university tab on his website.
Brett sells some very nice kits if you not familiar with them. I have about 6 of them planned for different locations on the layout. His latest kit is his best so far - in my opinion - and he has had some great kits. This latest one called O'Neals Fabrication and it is the first of a series he is planning to produce. I have already placed an order for the next few kits.
Here is the link to his website.
https://www.sierrawestscalemodels.com/index.html
Started adding the boards to the top of the platform today. Mark you can see the results of the chalk and alcohol bath technique - sorry I think I named it that the other night.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250216175332.jpeg)
I also made some progress on the trestle build today. Added the wood platform bridge across the lower tracks and then added the shorter trestle bents to complete the span. Lots of cross braces and then the bolt castings to add before this trestle is complete.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250216191003.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250216190927.jpeg)
Thanks John.
I have Scotia Supply which will be one of only three structures on the future extension of my layout, and so is still a long way from being built! I did Brett's workshop at Scranton last year. we weathered wood with chalk, but did not give it a 'bath'. Thanks for the link - I'll have a look soon.
O'Neals Fabrication is my favourite of Brett's kits so far. I see it as being very at home in a city layout as well as a backwoods environment. If the exchange rate between New Zealand and the USA wasn't so appalling at the moment, I would consider buying it. I have got out my Bar Mills Wicked Wanda's to see how it might be modified to look more like Brett's kit - but I may as well put my time into scratch-building something unique.
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: mark dalrymple on February 25, 2016, 08:04:04 PM
Thanks John.
I have Scotia Supply which will be one of only three structures on the future extension of my layout, and so is still a long way from being built! I did Brett's workshop at Scranton last year. we weathered wood with chalk, but did not give it a 'bath'. Thanks for the link - I'll have a look soon.
O'Neals Fabrication is my favourite of Brett's kits so far. I see it as being very at home in a city layout as well as a backwoods environment. If the exchange rate between New Zealand and the USA wasn't so appalling at the moment, I would consider buying it. I have got out my Bar Mills Wicked Wanda's to see how it might be modified to look more like Brett's kit - but I may as well put my time into scratch-building something unique.
Cheers, Mark.
Sorry Mark - the "bath" part is my poor choice of words. Every time I use this process my train room smells like a doctors office.
Here is a progress picture of the trestle this morning, before I glued on another round of cross bracing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-260216201703.jpeg)
Looks great without all those clamps on it.
8)
Quote from: ak-milw on February 26, 2016, 08:36:58 PM
Looks great without all those clamps on it.
8)
Thanks Andy - about three our four more rounds of gluing and I can put the clamps away :) .
I also made some progress on the Chippy Hollow build. Finished the top of the platform.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-260216212129.jpeg)
Also started gluing on the trim boards.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-260216212203.jpeg)
I finished painting the wall castings for the shed and loading dock for the Chippy Hollow Build. It's time to start laying everything out on the base board (for this build I'm using 3/16 inch gator board). I plan to attach this directly to the 3/4 inch plywood benchwork so I'm not worried about warpage. The 12 x 18 inch piece of Gator Board will work great for this build and I will have enough left over to build the icing platform that is in the cue for build. Those of you that are familiar with this kit will notice that I'm building mine as a mirror image of the way George built his. I just think it will look better in this configuration where I'm planting it on the layout. This build is currently planed for in front of the trestle I'm building.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-270216185122.jpeg)
I also made some progress on the trestle build today. One more round of gluing cross braces and it will be time to start adding the bolt castings. Adding the bolt castings is going to be interesting given the location of the trestle. I can't wait to get to this step. ;)
John,
You made great progress on the layout and structures. I really love the high trestles. They just scream Northwest railroadingl Looking good.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 27, 2016, 07:22:19 PM
John,
You made great progress on the layout and structures. I really love the high trestles. They just scream Northwest railroadingl Looking good.
Tom ;D
Tom
Thanks for stopping by the thread - the trestles have been a lot of work but I think they have been worth it. Thanks for the kind words.
A progress picture of the Chippy Hollow Build. The stone building is mounted on the baseboard and the cupola is finished and assembled.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-290216134227.jpeg)
That yellow looks a bit bright, are you going to tone it down? You could also add a beam with a block on it used to haul stuff up to that 2nd story door.
dave
Quote from: deemery on February 29, 2016, 02:14:29 PM
That yellow looks a bit bright, are you going to tone it down? You could also add a beam with a block on it used to haul stuff up to that 2nd story door.
dave
Hi Dave
I'm working on the cranes that are mounted on the roof right now. Also, added two vents and a chimney. George has more castings for the roof but I'm holding off on adding more until I get this detailed out. The yellow looks brighter in the photographs than to my eye so I will revisit it after detailing. May get another wash of A&I. As always, thanks for the input and stopping by the thread.
A dose of A&I would be what I'd prescribe to tone down that yellow. :-) :-) Or, if you happen to have it, you could try a sepia ink wash, which would add some depth to the yellow.
dave
Looks great John!
Quote from: Cuse on February 29, 2016, 06:51:15 PM
Looks great John!
Thanks John - we are making progress - slow but sure.
Today's progress on the Chippy Hollow Build. I completed the platform and mounted it on the baseboard. Added the cranes above the doors, some more roof vents. Oh and I made a first attempt at toning down the yellow with some chalks. What do you think?
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-010316190835.jpeg)
Front
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-010316190754.jpeg)
Back
Much better on the yellow.....now it looks like it wasn't painted yesterday. 8)
Quote from: GPdemayo on March 02, 2016, 08:28:47 AM
Much better on the yellow.....now it looks like it wasn't painted yesterday. 8)
Agree!!! No longer "Big Bird Building" :-)
dave
Quote from: GPdemayo on March 02, 2016, 08:28:47 AM
Much better on the yellow.....now it looks like it wasn't painted yesterday. 8)
Thanks Greg. I learned something about my iphone - the software likes to make colors brighter. I noticed it a little on the Brambell's build - the green looked brighter in the iPhone photographs. But it really brightens this yellow. That is depot buff paint to start and I toned it down with some grey chalk.
Quote from: deemery on March 02, 2016, 10:39:48 AM
Quote from: GPdemayo on March 02, 2016, 08:28:47 AM
Much better on the yellow.....now it looks like it wasn't painted yesterday. 8)
Agree!!! No longer "Big Bird Building" :-)
dave
I love it - all I need is a way to justify a picture of big bird in 1949 and it will become Big Birds Hardware. See post above on the paint color - definitely a lesson learned.
It's obvious that Jim Henson and Carroll Spinney saw your "Big Bird" building, and stole the idea for 'Sesame Street'.
dave
Another outstanding build John, looking good.
Quote from: Twopoint2 on March 03, 2016, 08:30:26 PM
Another outstanding build John, looking good.
Jim
Thanks for stopping by the thread and the kind words. I'm getting close to the point where I can plant my last two builds on the layout. The structures always look better with a proper background.
I removed the bridge over the track work and took a picture of Mt. Aiden with both trestles in place. Now for the foreground scenery and structures.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-060316110350.jpeg)
Quote from: S&S RR on March 06, 2016, 11:06:55 AM
I removed the bridge over the track work and took a picture of Mt. Aiden with both trestles in place. Now for the foreground scenery and structures.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-060316110350.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-060316110350.jpeg)
John,
Absolutely fantastic. What a great scene. I love it, just love it!
Super job my friend, wonderful.
Tom ;D
Quote from: S&S RR on March 06, 2016, 11:06:55 AM
I removed the bridge over the track work and took a picture of Mt. Aiden with both trestles in place. Now for the foreground scenery and structures.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-060316110350.jpeg)
Just incredible.
Awesome scene
Eric QUébec city
John,
Very nice. I like the fall colors of the Aspen trees peeking through. Also your trestles and rock work are fantastic.
Beautiful work. Great panoramic scene (as always on the S&S).
John
Awesome scene. I am starting to expect nothing less.
8)
Quote from: ACL1504 on March 06, 2016, 12:17:30 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on March 06, 2016, 11:06:55 AM
I removed the bridge over the track work and took a picture of Mt. Aiden with both trestles in place. Now for the foreground scenery and structures.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-060316110350.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-060316110350.jpeg)
John,
Absolutely fantastic. What a great scene. I love it, just love it!
Super job my friend, wonderful.
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom
I can't wait to get the structures planted in the foreground.
Quote from: sdrees on March 06, 2016, 12:59:19 PM
John,
Very nice. I like the fall colors of the Aspen trees peeking through. Also your trestles and rock work are fantastic.
Steve
Thanks for stopping by and the kind words. As you go around the curve the fall aspens become dominant - I'm trying to match some scenes from photographs of my trips out West. One hillside pines dominant next hillside aspens dominant.
Quote from: Cuse on March 06, 2016, 01:18:43 PM
Beautiful work. Great panoramic scene (as always on the S&S).
John
Thanks John - It's going to be nice to have one area completed.
Quote from: ak-milw on March 06, 2016, 01:55:08 PM
Awesome scene. I am starting to expect nothing less.
8)
Andy
Thanks for the kind words. Tomorrow, I'll be back at it - highly motivated right now to get this scene done and move on to the next.
It was a special weekend on the S&S RR. My wife had a baby shower for my youngest daughter that is expecting in May and she announced that we are having another Grandson. My Grandson Aiden also has picked out a mountain on the S&S to be named after my newest Grandson. I was asked if it would be done by the time the baby gets here. ;) What a great excuse for working on the layout rather than the honey-do-list.
This morning I did a test fit of my last few builds to figure out the track pieces I need to order. Since I had things in place I took a couple pictures to study and thought I would share where this scene is going.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-070316103656.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-070316103656.jpeg)
The large rocks you see behind Brambell's will be 95% covered my talus when this area is complete.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-070316103622.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-070316103622.jpeg)
I made a mockup of the coal facility that is planned for this area - it is two FSM kits combined.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-070316103549.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-070316103549.jpeg)
A few small changes to the turnouts in this area so I thought I better get them ordered.
John - does that coal facility include FSM Bartholow coal? If so I'll be interested to see your build. Jim
John...
Great stuff. Amazing progress.
see ya
Bob
John, what a fantastic scene. Looks like a future cover of a magazine.
What a majestic scene, that is some of the best scenery I have ever seen.
Quote from: jrmueller on March 07, 2016, 10:51:27 AM
John - does that coal facility include FSM Bartholow coal? If so I'll be interested to see your build. Jim
Jim
I have Bartholomew coal and plan on building it for another area on the layout. This mockup is the FSM Kit #100 called Jacob's Fuel Company - the mockup is actually two of the kits side by side which fits the area on the layout perfectly. I actually ended up with the second kit on a package deal off eBay about 15 years ago. I may have got the Jaime price of $16 dollars. I was going to sell it but then got the idea to build a double long version while I was laying out what kits I wanted to add to this area of the layout.
Quote from: bparrish on March 07, 2016, 01:00:57 PM
John...
Great stuff. Amazing progress.
see ya
Bob
Thanks Bob
This retirement thing is great - I just can't believe how fast a day goes by when I'm working on the layout.
Quote from: coors2u on March 07, 2016, 05:11:15 PM
John, what a fantastic scene. Looks like a future cover of a magazine.
Justin
Thanks - maybe some day. If we still have magazines when I get enough of the layout done to consider publishing.
Quote from: Janbouli on March 07, 2016, 06:15:13 PM
What a majestic scene, that is some of the best scenery I have ever seen.
Jan
Thank you - your kind words are much appreciated. If you ever get over to our side of the ocean I would love to have you visit.
Thanks for the info John. Look forward to your builds. Jim
Quote from: S&S RR on March 07, 2016, 09:49:42 PM
Quote from: Janbouli on March 07, 2016, 06:15:13 PM
What a majestic scene, that is some of the best scenery I have ever seen.
Jan
Thank you - your kind words are much appreciated. If you ever get over to our side of the ocean I would love to have you visit.
Thank you for the invitation John , good chance I will be on your door step once I have some vacation time . Mite take a while though ;)
John,
Did you use the same wood dye stain on the retaining walls and the trestle builds shown in the last photos ?
Tom
Quote from: tom.boyd.125 on March 09, 2016, 04:00:52 AM
John,
Did you use the same wood dye stain on the retaining walls and the trestle builds shown in the last photos ?
Tom
Hi Tom
Yes I did. It is a Alcohol and ink stain with 4 table spoons black and 2 table spoons brown ink in a quart of 91% alcohol. I went through 2 quarts of this mixture with the trestles and the retaining wall. With a stain this dark it really looks different from one piece of wood to the next.
Today, I took a couple progress pictures of the Eagle's Nest Warehouse to see how it photographed. This is a background structure so I will not be getting real crazy with the detail. There will be a number of highly detail structures in front of this when this area is finished. I also need to do some work on the aspen forest above. Dead leaf ground cover for one.
Here's my check list so far:
Weather the Eagle picture on the end - It's a war bonds add. The glue was still wet when I took this picture.
Attach the roof on the lower building.
Add lots of roof detail.
Fix the track before Wayne Olson comes over and sees it. I had to move the track about a 1/8 of an inch to get the proper clearance. There is a track inside the warehouse - the siding entrance is on the far left of the building.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-090316173649.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-090316173649.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-090316173720.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-090316173720.jpeg)
Speaking of Big Bird.... dave
Today, I decided to change the pace and get started on the benchwork and track work that I need to get the upper levels of the S&S RR operational. I will be switching back and forth between track work and structure building for the next 6 months or so - until I can say that all of the track work is operational.
Hi,
great work. Looking awesome.
Regards,Chris
Quote from: Twist67 on March 13, 2016, 11:25:00 AM
Hi,
great work. Looking awesome.
Regards,Chris
Thanks for the kind words Chris
Quote from: S&S RR on March 13, 2016, 02:38:45 PM
Quote from: Twist67 on March 13, 2016, 11:25:00 AM
Hi,
great work. Looking awesome.
Regards,Chris
Thanks for the kind words Chris
Ditto, but your pictures are definitively too small...... :)
Eric Québec city
Quote from: EricQuebec on March 13, 2016, 05:14:40 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on March 13, 2016, 02:38:45 PM
Quote from: Twist67 on March 13, 2016, 11:25:00 AM
Hi,
great work. Looking awesome.
Regards,Chris
Thanks for the kind words Chris
Ditto, but your pictures are definitively too small...... :)
Eric Québec city
Eric
Thanks - I will work on taking bigger pictures ;)
Today, I'm working on the layout in front of the fireplace at my cabin. I'm planning the arrangement for my next 6 structure builds. I'm also making some final changes to the upper level track plan. My goal for this year is to have all the track work operational. I will also be working in parallel on structure builds for the times when the body needs a break from crawling under the bench work. ;)
John,
It is hell getting old isn't it John. I feel the same way sometimes. Any way your progress is lookin great.
Quote from: sdrees on March 17, 2016, 01:08:42 PM
John,
It is hell getting old isn't it John. I feel the same way sometimes. Any way your progress is lookin great.
Steve
Thanks for stopping by the the thread - I'm not complaining - I get to play with trains all day! ;)
It's time for a few progress pictures.
First, the Superior & Seattle now has track over both trestles.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190316193325.jpeg)
The Eagles Nest Warehouse has more detail paint and weathering.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190316193642.jpeg)
And the two side sheds and front platform have been added to the Chippy Hollow build.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190316193726.jpeg)
Just a quick update tonight. Wayne Olson came over this afternoon and we got started with all that benchwork that need to be completed inside the mountains to get the trains from one level to another. It's kind of like working in a mine ;) . We got a few things laid out and it looks like it is going to work just fine. From here on out it's lots of cutting and fitting and track, and wires.
I also spent a few hours this morning working on the Chippy Hollow build. I will take more progress pictures later in the week. I'm making a number of custom pieces for this build because I'm building it in mirror image of the way George designed the kit.
Today, I started the final step on the trestle build. Adding the guard rails and details on the top of the trestle. Here are a couple progress pictures.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-240316193029.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-240316192948.jpeg)
I have about one more days work to get the rest of the trestle top completed and this project will be officially complete. I have been keeping track of the hours I spent building the trestle - anyone want to make guess? The initial large span is 7 foot, and then there is 24 inches of land, and then another 2 foot span of trestle. I have counted it all as one project. When I get the remaining top work done I will add up the hours.
I bought a new 50 MM lens for my camera and took a few test shots today.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250316195931.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250316195826.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250316195859.jpeg)
I don't know about the lens, but the model looks great.
Nice depth of field.
John,
Trestle is coming along very nice. I didn't know you punched a time clock when you start and stop working on the railroad. Sounds like work to me.
The pictures are great.
Quote from: ak-milw on March 25, 2016, 09:28:58 PM
I don't know about the lens, but the model looks great.
Thanks Andy
The model is sitting on the workbench waiting for me to finish the trestle - then I can plant it in it's permanent home.
Quote from: jbvb on March 25, 2016, 10:27:54 PM
Nice depth of field.
James
Thanks - I think this lens is really going to help with the close-up shots.
Quote from: sdrees on March 25, 2016, 10:51:07 PM
John,
Trestle is coming along very nice. I didn't know you punched a time clock when you start and stop working on the railroad. Sounds like work to me.
The pictures are great.
Steve
Thanks for stopping by the thread. I spent 38 years in the Auto industry so everything was measured in hours. I still do it with the projects on the layout - in retirement. It really helps me plan ahead - I'm having way to much fun for this to be considered work.
Brambell's looks great, as does the trestle. You and Tom have a workmanlike approach that's producing amazing progress on both of your layouts. Great results from a businesslike approach to your art.
See you soon...John
Quote from: Cuse on March 26, 2016, 02:35:09 PM
Brambell's looks great, as does the trestle. You and Tom have a workmanlike approach that's producing amazing progress on both of your layouts. Great results from a businesslike approach to your art.
See you soon...John
Thanks for the kind words John. Looking forward to our trip. The problem with any layout is that you can get too many projects started and never finish anything.
Speaking of finishing a project - 2 more feet of track detailing to complete and I will have the trestle finished.
John,
I sure love those trestles. Beautiful work my friend.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on March 26, 2016, 06:04:15 PM
John,
I sure love those trestles. Beautiful work my friend.
Tom ;D
Thanks for the kind words Tom. I'm glad they are almost finished - time for a change of pace.
I made a little progress on the Chippy Hollow build. Finished the stairs and the loading platforms.
Remember that my build is mirror image of the way George designed the kit. This results in my stairs going to the left down to the loading dock instead of across the stone building.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-270316201541.jpeg)
Looks good, John
Jim
Keeps getting better.
John....
I'm a lay down for outside spindly stairways.
That is really cool.
Thanx
Bob
Quote from: bparrish on March 28, 2016, 02:36:55 PM
John....
I'm a lay down for outside spindly stairways.
That is really cool.
Thanx
Bob
Thanks Bob
Getting everything straight is a challenge with bi-focals. I'm using small squares for just about everything. Price of reaching retirement age.
Very nice building John, will make a nice addition to the layout.
Quote from: Twopoint2 on March 28, 2016, 08:03:28 PM
Very nice building John, will make a nice addition to the layout.
Hi Jim
Thanks for stopping by the thread and the kind words. This model has lots of details to add so I will be at it for awhile. I plan to install it near the trestle.
John, since you are reversing everything on the Chippy Hollow structure, why not the name? Say some like "...Chunky Bump...", just saying. ;D
Quote from: martin.ojaste on March 28, 2016, 10:30:42 PM
John, since you are reversing everything on the Chippy Hollow structure, why not the name? Say some like "...Chunky Bump...", just saying. ;D
"Hollow Chippings?" ;-)
dave
Quote from: deemery on March 29, 2016, 09:52:55 AM
Quote from: martin.ojaste on March 28, 2016, 10:30:42 PM
John, since you are reversing everything on the Chippy Hollow structure, why not the name? Say some like "...Chunky Bump...", just saying. ;D
"Hollow Chippings?" ;-)
dave
....or howsabout???? Hippy Wollow ....?????
Hi,
Great looking structure and fantastic work on this.
Regards,Chris
Quote from: martin.ojaste on March 28, 2016, 10:30:42 PM
John, since you are reversing everything on the Chippy Hollow structure, why not the name? Say some like "...Chunky Bump...", just saying. ;D
Martin, David, and Donato
Chippy Hollow may get a new name as well as a new look on the layout - thanks for the suggestions. I will let you know when I have just the right one. ;) Thanks for following the thread. And sorry it took so long to get back to you guys - I didn't spend much time on my computer at the EXPO. I sure came back ready to get back to work on the layout.
Quote from: Twist67 on April 05, 2016, 10:33:56 AM
Hi,
Great looking structure and fantastic work on this.
Regards,Chris
Thanks Chris - I just got back from the EXPO and I'm all fired up to get going.
I would like to thank all of the forum members that came up and introduced themselves at the EXPO - it was great meeting some new members and renewing my friendship with those of you that I have know for years.
Another great EXPO - thanks to all those that worked so hard to put it on. My head is about to explode was the comment I heard most often while I was at George's Franklin & South Manchester. I know how you feel my head is about to explode with all the new ideas that I came away from the EXPO with and want to implement on the S&S Railroad.
John it was great to see you again at the EXPO. We had a lot of fun in a short period of time. I think I owe you a build one of these days. :D What the heck, I don't have a layout of my own so I might as well store my builds on everyone else's layout. ;D
If I wasn't so busy trying to absorb everything on the FSM I think it would be fun just to watch the expression on peoples faces as they round that corner and enter the layout room.
Quote from: ReadingBob on April 05, 2016, 01:15:53 PM
John it was great to see you again at the EXPO. We had a lot of fun in a short period of time. I think I owe you a build one of these days. :D What the heck, I don't have a layout of my own so I might as well store my builds on everyone else's layout. ;D
If I wasn't so busy trying to absorb everything on the FSM I think it would be fun just to watch the expression on peoples faces as they round that corner and enter the layout room.
Bob
I had a great time with you guys at the EXPO. We need to do it again.
You don't owe me anything, but it would be a great honor to store one of your builds on the S&S Railroad ;) . I have a long list of projects. :D
I got back to work on my Chippy Hollow build today - I added the dirt to the base so I could start adding detail castings and the stairs and ladders from the platform to the ground. Pictures after the glue dries.
Here is a progress picture of the Chippy Hollow Build. Glueing the cranes in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-090416153929.jpeg)
Well since winter is back here in Michigan - I'm getting lots of modeling done. Here are a couple of progress pictures from my Chippy Hollow Build. I'm also working on the benchwork for the helix inside the mountain - my back can take a couple hours at a time working under the layout.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-100416180423.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-100416180423.jpeg)
Test fit of the platform roof - now I need to add the tar paper before I glue it in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-100416180252.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-100416180252.jpeg)
Wow,Nice work on that Chippy Hollow Build. Looking great.
Regards,Chris
John,
Chippy Hollow is looking good. I like your weathering.
John the cranes came out nice and I like the way you weighted them down while the glue setup.
Quote from: Twist67 on April 11, 2016, 01:55:35 PM
Wow,Nice work on that Chippy Hollow Build. Looking great.
Regards,Chris
Thanks Chris - the details castings are starting to come out of the box.
Yesterday, the roof on the platform for Chippy Hollow got a tarpaper covering and was glued in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-120416134757.jpeg)
Quote from: sdrees on April 11, 2016, 03:51:01 PM
John,
Chippy Hollow is looking good. I like your weathering.
Thanks for the kind words and stopping by the thread Steve - I will be adding and touching up with chalks as a final step to the weathering process.
John,
Like the way you have been " Chipping" away with the build of this kit. Looking great !
Tom
Quote from: tom.boyd.125 on April 14, 2016, 02:22:50 AM
John,
Like the way you have been " Chipping" away with the build of this kit. Looking great !
Tom
Thanks Tom - I sure have been "Chipping" away at it. Multi-tasking!
I made some more progress on the Chippy Hollow build today. I have completed the structure with only the sign to add to the roof. Tomorrow it will no longer be Chippy Hollow - I'm working on the signs tonight. I have started the weathering process and will next add all the detail castings, before I put the finishing touches on the weathering.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190416211942.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190416212014.jpeg)
Looks great John!
JM
Quote from: Cuse on April 20, 2016, 06:42:25 AM
Looks great John!
JM
Thanks John - now for all those detail castings.
Beautiful work, John!
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: mark dalrymple on April 20, 2016, 03:20:35 PM
Beautiful work, John!
Cheers, Mark.
Thanks for the kind words Mark.
Today, Chippy Hollow became Walter P. 's Wholesale Distribution and made it's way from the workbench to the layout for a test fit. I always like to move a build to the layout in the lighting it will be displayed in and take a few pictures before I make the final changes to the weathering. The structure is named after a good model railroading friend and a member of the local rail gang.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-200416180623.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-200416180551.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-200416180510.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-200416180412.jpeg)
OUTSTANDING !!!!!
Nice job John, really like the gantry crane
Quote from: Donato on April 20, 2016, 08:07:48 PM
OUTSTANDING !!!!!
Thanks - a few more touch ups and it will be ready to add to the layout. I 'm looking forward to finishing up the track work in this area of the layout so I can add the structures and finish the scenery. Thanks for stopping by the thread.
Quote from: ak-milw on April 20, 2016, 08:41:00 PM
Nice job John, really like the gantry crane
Thanks Andy. The crane was part of the kit. It really was a pleasure to build.
Fantastic Job , wow , all the details.
Quote from: Janbouli on April 21, 2016, 05:23:10 PM
Fantastic Job , wow , all the details.
Thanks Jan - it is all about the details.
Well done John, very well done.
Tom ;D
John
Your model really looks great, but l will say it again, I really like your rock work.
Quote from: ACL1504 on April 21, 2016, 06:25:22 PM
Well done John, very well done.
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom - It has been a fun project.
Quote from: sdrees on April 21, 2016, 08:04:08 PM
John
Your model really looks great, but l will say it again, I really like your rock work.
Thanks Steve. The rock work and scenery really help the structures look good. The structures are suppose to look best on the layout not on the workbench.
I took a look at the workbench and was just going to get things cleaned up for my next structure build when I decided to put in the staging yard I had planned for in this area. I will soon be running lots of test trains and I needed a place to store the trains while I work on the layout. I had a little short staging yard on the lower level but there was 20 feet of hidden track that needed to be maintained to get to it. This yard was left over from my previous layout and I had always planned to remove it. After trying to get the hidden track working for a couple hours - I decided it was time for it to go. So the first picture is about halfway through the removal of the lower yard.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-230416103237.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-230416103237.jpeg)
This benchwork is going to give me some much needed shelf space in my work area.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-230416103308.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-230416103308.jpeg)
Here is the new benchwork going in. This yard will be off from the upper level of the layout.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-230416103340.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-230416103340.jpeg)
This is the view from my workshop - the new track will end at the paint booth giving me space for at least 6 - 12 foot long staging tracks and another 6 - 3 foot long feeder tracks for more rolling stock storage. Okay breaks over - back to work.
The track running along the wall goes to a reversing loop in my workshop today. In the future (I have to finish the layout in my current space allocation, per the boss) it will be the mainline to the town of Superior.
I'm building a few of the sections of the new yard on the workbench. What a great way to lay track and wire it in a hurry. This section is ready to install.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250416215106.jpeg)
I thought I would post an update this morning. I have been away from the layout for a few days helping with my new Grandson Isaac John. He is actually on my lap as I post this. We are making plans for the area near Mount Isaac.
I did manage to get the rocks that I collected on my last trip out West crushed down to the right size. A 3 pound hammer did the trick - the finished product looks good.The only issue was a sore arm the next day. I'll post pictures when I add them to the layout.
John, getting back to the pictures of Walter P's Wholesale, you really don't get a full appreciation of a build until you put it on the layout and see how it fits with the surrounding scenery. I enjoyed your build, but I'm really digging it more after seeing it on the layout. Congratulations. It must be nice to be retired and able to work on it every day. Phil
Quote from: KCS Trains on May 02, 2016, 01:06:57 PM
John, getting back to the pictures of Walter P's Wholesale, you really don't get a full appreciation of a build until you put it on the layout and see how it fits with the surrounding scenery. I enjoyed your build, but I'm really digging it more after seeing it on the layout. Congratulations. It must be nice to be retired and able to work on it every day. Phil
Phil
Thanks for the kind words and for stopping by the thread. I really like to make the structure fit the scenery so your comments are much appreciated.
As for retirement - it's the best job I ever had.
Here are some progress pictures of the staging yard I'm working on.
This first picture is looking from the paint booth towards the wall between my workshop and the layout room. The second is from the area above my workbench looking back toward the paint booth. This yard will be setup to stage and store trains. I'm trying to make use of all of the available space.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-120516081905.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-120516081721.jpeg)
Time for another update: The staging yard is complete except for running the power. Track is in, turnouts are setup with manual controls, and the power drops are all in. The two turnouts that control traffic off the mainline into the yard are controlled with tortoise controls so I can wire them into the main control panel. This afternoon I plan on running the power to this section of the layout and it will be functional.
How long do you think it will take me to fill all the new shelf space around the workbench?
The next project will be the helix inside the two mountains to get the trains running on the upper level.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-140516144155.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-140516144155.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-140516144300.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-140516144300.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-140516144229.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-140516144229.jpeg)
Today, I got the wires run to the yard from the control panel. Next work session I will be able to connect the drops and power it up. I'm looking forward to having trains running on the S&S RR again.
The cover is off the junction box and the wires for the yard are in place. I should be testing tomorrow. :)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-180516195113.jpeg)
John,
What are all the wall switches for?
Quote from: sdrees on May 19, 2016, 12:54:10 PM
John,
What are all the wall switches for?
Hi Steve
My layout is sectioned into 123 blocks and 14 power districts (I keep adding). I can turn off a block with the switches to help with finding a short or to turn off locomotives that are sitting. It is the best thing I ever did. It makes it so easy to find problems. It paid for itself in both time and money the first time I had to find a pair of track nippers that was laying in a tunnel. If you check out the index on page 1 you will find the page where I explain the wiring in more detail.
John,
Thanks, so do you have 123 of these switches around your layout? You do this instead of circuit breakers?. I think the Frank/Eireman does something similar.
Thanks again,
Quote from: sdrees on May 19, 2016, 07:39:43 PM
John,
Thanks, so do you have 123 of these switches around your layout? You do this instead of circuit breakers?. I think the Frank/Eireman does something similar.
Thanks again,
Steve
Yes - there are 4 different control panels. I still have all the circuit breakers - the switches just allow me to turn a section of track off or better yet isolate it from the others. To find a short I just turn switches off until I clear it and I know which section of track to go look at to find it. Since I'm constantly working on the layout it is nice to be able to run on part of the layout.
I'm not sure if Frank does this - good question to ask him next time we talk.
John,
I am at the point where I need to decide on how I am going to wire my layout. I have decided on the NCE system for controls, but the remainder of the wiring I haven't. This is the subject I know the least about.
Thanks for your help,
Quote from: sdrees on May 20, 2016, 07:59:54 PM
John,
I am at the point where I need to decide on how I am going to wire my layout. I have decided on the NCE system for controls, but the remainder of the wiring I haven't. This is the subject I know the least about.
Thanks for your help,
This site is invaluable, and not just for DCC installations: http://www.wiringfordcc.com
dave
Thanks Dave, just added it to my favorites list.
Quote from: sdrees on May 20, 2016, 07:59:54 PM
John,
I am at the point where I need to decide on how I am going to wire my layout. I have decided on the NCE system for controls, but the remainder of the wiring I haven't. This is the subject I know the least about.
Thanks for your help,
Hi Steve
I am very happy with my choice of NCE for a DCC system. The site that Dave posted above is great. As to my input, a standard DCC wiring scheme works great on smaller layouts where you can see everything from one place. In my case the layout is L shaped with plans to expand into two more rooms in the future. I also have many tunnels and hidden areas. I wanted a way to find the location of problems quickly, so I combined the traditional DC block wiring with the standard DCC power districts. My power districts are broken up into blocks so I can turn on and off each section of track with a started house light switch. This really helps with installations and trouble shooting and really is worth the extra effort in my opinion. If you check out page 23 - 27 of this thread you can follow along on the installation. Please let me know if you have questions and good luck with your installation.
John......
I might have divided my railroad in a similar fashion but didn't know the right words. I have an around the room pike and it uses a single pair of bus wires for the DCC. The source wire from the control panel comes in approximately in the middle. I put DPDT switches in several places in the bus wires and made gaps in the rails directly above. They are in areas that are clear of turnouts and clutter.
I also have an indicator light that is simply across the rails to show power to the rails. When a short occurs that I can't easily find I start away from the source and turn off switches until some track indicator comes back on as the short has turned them all off. When one or more lights come back on the offending area / block has been found.
I find though that most shorts are operators backing cars into closed turnouts or that a car in a yard or siding has bridged the gap in the turnout. When the turnout is cleared back to the main the short occurs.
My operators have learned a diagnostic trick that I used when managing an automotive shop for Mercedes Benz................. What did I do most recently ? ? ? ? Start there.
see ya
Bob
Thanks John. The other day I went thru your thread and read what you did with your wiring. It was very helpful.
Quote from: bparrish on May 23, 2016, 11:31:26 AM
John......
I might have divided my railroad in a similar fashion but didn't know the right words. I have an around the room pike and it uses a single pair of bus wires for the DCC. The source wire from the control panel comes in approximately in the middle. I put DPDT switches in several places in the bus wires and made gaps in the rails directly above. They are in areas that are clear of turnouts and clutter.
I also have an indicator light that is simply across the rails to show power to the rails. When a short occurs that I can't easily find I start away from the source and turn off switches until some track indicator comes back on as the short has turned them all off. When one or more lights come back on the offending area / block has been found.
I find though that most shorts are operators backing cars into closed turnouts or that a car in a yard or siding has bridged the gap in the turnout. When the turnout is cleared back to the main the short occurs.
My operators have learned a diagnostic trick that I used when managing an automotive shop for Mercedes Benz................. What did I do most recently ? ? ? ? Start there.
see ya
Bob
Hi Bob
Thanks for stopping by the thread and the input. It sounds like you have a similar design. I wish I could get your Mercedes Benz diagnostic trick to work when I'm trying to find my glasses.
Quote from: sdrees on May 23, 2016, 08:19:18 PM
Thanks John. The other day I went thru your thread and read what you did with your wiring. It was very helpful.
Steve
Good to hear - let me know if you have any questions along the way. That's why we have a forum.
Interesting statistic - this thread has passed the 200,000 views mark. I think that's amazing and real evidence that our hobby is alive and well. Now - back to work so I have something to post.
A F&SM Hopper visited the Superior & Seattle today and I thought I would add the photographs of the Hopper on the Mt. Aiden Trestle here on this thread for the historical record. These pictures also appear in the F&SM Traveling Hopper thread.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250516141644.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250516141605.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250516141530.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250516141456.jpeg)
F&SM Hopper on the Superior & Seattle RR. (set 2)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250516141410.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250516141256.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250516141222.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250516141148.jpeg)
Set 3:
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250516141113.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250516141037.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250516141009.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250516140935.jpeg)
Set 4:
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250516140711.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250516140633.jpeg)
Awesome John , I love it.
Quote from: Janbouli on May 25, 2016, 02:58:12 PM
Awesome John , I love it.
Jan
Thanks for the kind words.
My layout time today was devoted wiring the new yard above my workbench. I'm also in the process of deciding what will be my next structure build - I need a gazebo project now that the weather is getting nice. I power washed the gazebo today and have my out door modeling space all ready to go.
I'm putting the finishing touches on the wiring of my staging yard above my workbench so it's time to decide on what will be my next build. I want to finish the area in front of Mt. Aiden so I decided to start the Jacob's Fuel Build.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-270516152446.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-270516152534.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-270516152616.jpeg)
No your not seeing double - I have two of the Jacob's Fuel kits. Many years ago I bought a big lot of FSM kits on Ebay (before the crazies took over) and a second Jacob's was part of the lot. I like the idea of building the kit double so I made a mockup of the double structure out of artist board. So I guess I will have 400 castings and over 1200 parts. After the Mt. Aiden Trestle build that doesn't seem like that many.
I knew the approximate location for it when I laid the track for main line and have a turnout already in place. I have to decide which side I want to put the loading conveyor on. I will be building it with a side load rather than the front load of the kit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-270516152718.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-270516152718.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-270516152812.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-270516152812.jpeg)
Here are a couple pictures of the scene with the mock-up to give you and idea what it will look like with the other structures in the area. Loading cute on the left or the right? I may cut the length down a little too. I will study my options and modify the mockup once I have a plan.
I should also mention that there will a number of smaller structures in the foreground once I complete the rerouting of the mainline. The cork you see is just laying there for reference.
I also plan on more trees on the right side of the mainline on the upper level.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-270516152923.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-270516152923.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-270516152954.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-270516152954.jpeg)
Spectacular!
John
Quote from: Cuse on May 28, 2016, 07:38:39 AM
Spectacular!
John
Thanks John
It will be nice to have a section of the layout that is done! Getting close.
That large coal installation will look great! Photocopying, or scanning & printing, structure plans is a great way to check size, shape, etc. It's also great for construction templates.
dave
Quote from: deemery on May 28, 2016, 11:59:00 AM
That large coal installation will look great! Photocopying, or scanning & printing, structure plans is a great way to check size, shape, etc. It's also great for construction templates.
dave
Dave
I couldn't agree more, and it's so easy to do.
I got 80lb paper (not quite cardstock weight). This stuff will fit through my printer, and it's much better for templates and mock-ups than the normal 20lb or 24lb paper. I also have some 110lb cardstock, but that stuff is too thick to fit through my laser printer. (I should see if it'll go through my inkjet.)
dave
That new structure will fit right in. The scene will look great. Nice to see a CB&Q hopper on your pike, though it should have been more prominently displayed, like behind the F&SM hopper. ;D
Jeff
I look forward to watching your progress on Jacob's John.....I have the kit and think it will look great when you get it done. :)
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on May 28, 2016, 06:03:56 PM
That new structure will fit right in. The scene will look great. Nice to see a CB&Q hopper on your pike, though it should have been more prominently displayed, like behind the F&SM hopper. ;D
Jeff
Thanks for stopping by the thread and the kind words. I have a number of the CB&Q war hoppers and your right it should have been behind the F&SM hopper. I will remember that the next time the F&SM hopper comes through.
Quote from: GPdemayo on May 29, 2016, 09:40:24 AM
I look forward to watching your progress on Jacob's John.....I have the kit and think it will look great when you get it done. :)
Greg
Thanks for following along. I will be getting casting ready to paint and weathering strip wood latter this week.
Hi John:
That looks like fun. Wish I had a RR.
Karl
Quote from: postalkarl on May 30, 2016, 03:55:11 PM
Hi John:
That looks like fun. Wish I had a RR.
Karl
Thanks for stopping by the thread Karl. I wish you had a layout too - with all your structure builds it would be awesome.
John,
Looking forward to your double FSM Jacob's Coal build. That will be an impressive looking structure ! Like the way you will place the conveyor on the side of the building too. Believe Bruce Chubb's had his like that for the Sunset Valley RR.... Hope your construction will help me get going to finish up my single kit Jacob's build that was placed in storage for a long time due to my 2 moves ...
Tommy
Quote from: tom.boyd.125 on May 31, 2016, 02:00:57 AM
John,
Looking forward to your double FSM Jacob's Coal build. That will be an impressive looking structure ! Like the way you will place the conveyor on the side of the building too. Believe Bruce Chubb's had his like that for the Sunset Valley RR.... Hope your construction will help me get going to finish up my single kit Jacob's build that was placed in storage for a long time due to my 2 moves ...
Tommy
Tommy
Thanks for stopping by the thread. I will take a look at my photographs of Bruce Chubb's layout and see if I got a picture. That is one big layout. I hope this build prompts you to get yours out of storage.
I spent some time looking at the directions for the Jacob's build and I'm leaning towards building the loading chute on the right side of the structure. I will need to shorten the complete structure by a couple inches but I see lots of opportunities to do that with a double structure without messing up the proportions. The loading docks in front will be available for both box car and truck access so I will fill in the track with boards to allow the trucks to get across. Since my Grandson Isaac spent the morning on my lap helping me develop the plan I thick Jacob's is going to become Isaac's Coal Yard. He will also have a Mountain named after him in a different section of the layout but Isaac's Coal yard at the base of his brother's mountain, Mt. Aiden, just seems to work.
I got back to the layout today. I spent most of the day wiring - no pictures - seen one wire you have seen them all. I also did a test paint on the Eagle's Nest Warehouse I built a few months ago. I just didn't like the brown building - about 10 percent of it is now dark green. I like it much better, so if I still feel the same way when I look at it in the morning, I will post some finish pictures.
A few weeks ago we had a discussion about my switches and blocks for my DCC system wiring. Today, I fired up the DCC system to test the new yard. I had a short - so I turned off each of the blocks in the new yard. I still had a short. So I looked around in the two other areas I have been working and didn't see any tools laying on the track. So I kept turning off switches until the short went away. It was in block 5 on the mainline - about 20 foot of track that has been operational for years. After inspecting everything I could see I looked into the tunnel between the layout and my work area. And look what I found. It must have flown in there while I was working on the yard. No big deal, but it shows why I have the switches and blocks with a DCC layout.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-030616193630.jpeg)
John...........
Good system.
I would still be looking for that one ! ! ! !
see ya
Bob
Left behind by one of these?
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi0.wp.com%2Fcomics-x-aminer.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2013%2F11%2FNECA-Brain-Gremlin-Puppet-Replica-2.jpg%3Fresize%3D637%252C1024&hash=15f5475e9576194d749a557e77b346605cabd4c3) (http://i0.wp.com/comics-x-aminer.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/NECA-Brain-Gremlin-Puppet-Replica-2.jpg?resize=637%2C1024)
(but not one of these...
(https://static.cargurus.com/images/site/2008/11/03/00/52/1973_amc_gremlin-pic-18889-640x480.jpeg) (https://static.cargurus.com/images/site/2008/11/03/00/52/1973_amc_gremlin-pic-18889-640x480.jpeg)
dave
Dave...
There is a reason some car companies are gone........... ! ! ! ! !
see ya
Bob
Quote from: bparrish on June 04, 2016, 01:35:30 AM
John...........
Good system.
I would still be looking for that one ! ! ! !
see ya
Bob
Thanks for stopping by Bob and the kind words - I thought it was a good example of the need for blocks on larger layouts.
Quote from: deemery on June 04, 2016, 01:00:56 PM
Left behind by one of these?
(https://modelersforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi0.wp.com%2Fcomics-x-aminer.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2013%2F11%2FNECA-Brain-Gremlin-Puppet-Replica-2.jpg%3Fresize%3D637%252C1024&hash=15f5475e9576194d749a557e77b346605cabd4c3) (http://i0.wp.com/comics-x-aminer.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/NECA-Brain-Gremlin-Puppet-Replica-2.jpg?resize=637%2C1024)
(but not one of these...
(https://static.cargurus.com/images/site/2008/11/03/00/52/1973_amc_gremlin-pic-18889-640x480.jpeg) (https://static.cargurus.com/images/site/2008/11/03/00/52/1973_amc_gremlin-pic-18889-640x480.jpeg)
dave
It only helps find these - you still have to get rid of them.
Quote from: bparrish on June 04, 2016, 01:11:28 PM
Dave...
There is a reason some car companies are gone........... ! ! ! ! !
see ya
Bob
Yes - some deserved it and some our Government destroyed.
Today, I got the workbench back in operation after the yard build project. I started distressing and staining the wood for the Jacob's build.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-040616151926.jpeg)
I have been working on wiring and making a few pine trees the last couple of days. The workbench yard is complete and tested. And now I'm working on a few repairs in the Eagles Nest Yard. Next up will be the track changes for Brambell's and Walter P's. The plan for this summer is to complete the helixes and the upper level track. I have a lot of benchwork to do inside the mountains to install the two internal helixes - it's going to be hard on the back so I will be doing it in a couple hours at a time. I will have a structure build going at all times so I have something to work on that is easier on the back. I also plan on completing the scenery for Mt. Aiden as soon as I get the track work changes completed in the area. So that's the plan for this summer - I will post pictures as I complete the work.
John,
When Tom has a short on his layout he starts the debug process the last place his saw Greg DeMayo standing. But Greg wasn't at your place so we can rule that out. ;D
Quote from: ReadingBob on June 08, 2016, 09:27:23 AM
John,
When Tom has a short on his layout he starts the debug process the last place his saw Greg DeMayo standing. But Greg wasn't at your place so we can rule that out. ;D
Are we sure that Greg wasn't there ? :o :o :o :o
Jim
Quote from: jimmillho on June 08, 2016, 02:54:38 PM
Quote from: ReadingBob on June 08, 2016, 09:27:23 AM
John,
When Tom has a short on his layout he starts the debug process the last place his saw Greg DeMayo standing. But Greg wasn't at your place so we can rule that out. ;D
Are we sure that Greg wasn't there ? :o :o :o :o
Jim
Yea, what they said. Now that Greg isn't allowed to wear his watch while visiting the A&S RR, there have been no shorts. Well, except for the ones he wears. Cover your eye's Myrtle, it ain't for you to see.
Tom 8)
Wonderful progress John.....you were lucky you only had to put up with the peanut gallery for few days at the Expo, I get to have them all year round.....great fun. ::)
Quote from: ReadingBob on June 08, 2016, 09:27:23 AM
John,
When Tom has a short on his layout he starts the debug process the last place his saw Greg DeMayo standing. But Greg wasn't at your place so we can rule that out. ;D
Bob
Thanks for stopping by the thread. On the S&S RR we have Wayne Olson and that's where I usually look for the short. Funny story - Wayne has a cardboard box for his tools (actually my tools but his for working on the layout) and he is always looking for one of them. He is always accusing me of taking one of them out of his box so he started putting red tape on them. I moved a bunch of stuff from under the yard area last week and I now have 12 files with red tape on them to show Wayne when he comes over on Saturday. Also, found some track cutters, and a few other misc. tools. - I can put off that order to Micro Mart for a little while. We have a lot fun with each other loosing stuff. I wonder how many pairs of glasses I have in the layout room?
Quote from: jimmillho on June 08, 2016, 02:54:38 PM
Quote from: ReadingBob on June 08, 2016, 09:27:23 AM
John,
When Tom has a short on his layout he starts the debug process the last place his saw Greg DeMayo standing. But Greg wasn't at your place so we can rule that out. ;D
Are we sure that Greg wasn't there ? :o :o :o :o
Jim
Pretty sure - but you guys are welcome any time. You too Greg.
Quote from: ACL1504 on June 08, 2016, 04:22:32 PM
Quote from: jimmillho on June 08, 2016, 02:54:38 PM
Quote from: ReadingBob on June 08, 2016, 09:27:23 AM
John,
When Tom has a short on his layout he starts the debug process the last place his saw Greg DeMayo standing. But Greg wasn't at your place so we can rule that out. ;D
Are we sure that Greg wasn't there ? :o :o :o :o
Jim
Yea, what they said. Now that Greg isn't allowed to wear his watch while visiting the A&S RR, there have been no shorts. Well, except for the ones he wears. Cover your eye's Myrtle, it ain't for you to see.
Tom 8)
Tom
Poor Greg - seems to get blamed for everything.
Quote from: GPdemayo on June 08, 2016, 05:18:15 PM
Wonderful progress John.....you were lucky you only had to put up with the peanut gallery for few days at the Expo, I get to have them all year round.....great fun. ::)
Wow, Greg and you call these guys friends. Like I said above if it gets to hot for you down their come on up North and visit the S&S RR. Thanks for stopping by the thread and for the kind words.
I completed some more work on the Eagle's Next Warehouse - added some weathering and a new color to the building that was dark brown. Also added some moldings to cover the joints between the castings. I plan on lots of roof details, including a water tower, as time goes on.
Here is a progress picture.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-110616190121.jpeg)
In addition to the warehouse Wayne Olson and I made some significant progress with track work today. I also, once again, got to experience the wonderful feeling when I'm under the layout and the power goes off. We have a backup generator so I only have to wait 20 seconds but it is really dark under there. We loose power around here a lot - so it sure is nice to be able to generate my own power when I need to. In the days before the generator, I remember a number of times feeling my way in the dark to find my way out. Every time it would happened I would find a new place to put the flashlight where I could find it next time.
Might be worth getting a couple of those Harbor Freight 'daylight powered' battery floodlights and putting them at appropriate places around the layout room.
dave
Quote from: S&S RR on June 08, 2016, 09:37:55 PM
Quote from: GPdemayo on June 08, 2016, 05:18:15 PM
Wonderful progress John.....you were lucky you only had to put up with the peanut gallery for few days at the Expo, I get to have them all year round.....great fun. ::)
Wow, Greg and you call these guys friends. Like I said above if it gets to hot for you down their come on up North and visit the S&S RR. Thanks for stopping by the thread and for the kind words.
A visit to your part of the world sounds like a great plan.....thanks for the invite and look forward to seeing your empire. 8)
I received an email from one of the guests to our forum with some suggestions on how to make this thread better. Basically said that he/or she wanted to keep the comments between the two of us (doesn't like to post) but they seem to be reading most of the threads on the forum. The comment was basically try to add more comments on the how and why of each progress step rather than just reporting on progress. Like ReadingBob does on his build threads! Bob you will always be the best in my eyes with build threads. We had a thread going earlier in the week on the status of forums so these comments were very timely.
When I started this thread I was trying to post the information that I was looking for when I got started in the hobby and over the years I think I started thinking everyone reading the thread already knows that. In my way of thinking there are layout progress threads and there are build threads that try to explain the techniques being used. I always wanted this to be a build thread. So today, while I was working on my Jacob's build I took a few more pictures and will be attempting to post more of the how and why.
To the guest that sent the email - Thank you. I hope that someday you will feel comfortable joining the forum, posting your comments, and even posting some of your work. Until then, I hope this redirection of this thread helps you with your enjoyment of the hobby - what ever direction it takes you.
And now and update on my Jacob's build. This first picture is my workbench where I'm preparing the metal castings for painting. I mount my casting to wood sticks to help with handling them. The picture shows the process. I'm using the same wood glue that I use to build the wood portion of the kits. It's Titebond III ( note to photographer turn the bottle so the label shows next time).
The glue holds the castings in place through the whole painting process - I have tried double stick tape of a number of different brands and I never seem to keep the casting on the stick long enough to get them through the painting process.
There is a trick to removing the castings once your ready to mount them to your build. Glue is very weak in shear so you need to twist them off the stick. If you try to pull them off you can damage the castings.
I really like these metal bolt castings - they look much more realistic than the plastic castings. I don't know of a current source for metal nut & bolt castings - anyone know of one?
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-120616210601.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-120616210601.jpeg)
On my other workbench I'm preparing the wood parts for the build by distressing them (adding grain) with a razor saw. I use three different types depending on the size of the piece of wood. They all have saw teeth in the blades.
I'm staining the wood with chalks - for this build I'm using three different colors - a black, a dark brown, and a medium gray. This is the colors I chose for a coaling facility. I scrape the chalk from the stick with a razor blade and then add 90% alcohol. I'm brushing the mixture on to the wood with a 1/4 inch paint brush.
During the process the wood gets slivers that need to be removed. I like to remove them after the staining process because the alcohol tends to make them stick out more and even adds some slivers durning the drying process.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-120616213840.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-120616213840.jpeg)
Here is a photograph of the wood after the distressing process.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-120616210706.jpeg)
After the staining process - you can see the slivers better with the white background and dark wood.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-120616210958.jpeg)
Finally, I remove the slivers with 600 or 800 grit sand paper. This process not only removes the slivers but also gives the wood a more weathered look. Part of that is texture and part a lightening of the color.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-120616210805.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-120616210805.jpeg)
A comment on this technique: Up until a few years ago I would have used alcohol & Ink to weather the wood for this build. I have started using the chalk process after attending one of Brent Gallent's SWSM clinics. I will still us A&I for some builds, but I really like the difference in color from board to board using this technique. With A&I you get a difference board to board by the difference in the way the wood absorbs the stain - which you get here. But you also get differences because you are using different colors of chalk which you are randomly blending together. Another plus with the chalks is the texture. To me it looks more natural.
Here is a photograph of a few of the more than 1200 sticks required for this double build ready to be glued in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-120616210737.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-120616210737.jpeg)
Note the difference in color and texture.
Thank you John, I really like this kind of build thread.
John, being a Sierra West disciple, I couldn't agree more. The chalk and alcohol mix gives you a lot of versatility. There are so many chalk choices, the combinations are almost endless. For those new to this process, go the Sierra West website, https://www.sierrawestscalemodels.com/ and check out Brett's video under Craftsman Kit University. You will see how easy it is. Phil
Quote from: KCS Trains on June 13, 2016, 01:21:37 PM
John, being a Sierra West disciple, I couldn't agree more. The chalk and alcohol mix gives you a lot of versatility. There are so many chalk choices, the combinations are almost endless. For those new to this process, go the Sierra West website, https://www.sierrawestscalemodels.com/ (https://www.sierrawestscalemodels.com/) and check out Brett's video under Craftsman Kit University. You will see how easy it is. Phil
Phil
Thanks for stopping by the thread. Brett's Website is a great source of information and if you get a chance to attend one of his clinics I highly recommended it. If you look in the pictures of my workbench, on the shelf you will find many of Brett's kits that are in the build cue. I have an area picked on the other side Mount Aiden for many of them. His newest kit O'Neal's Fabrication is part of a series of kits he is planning. I already have my order in for the complete set - I just call him with a credit card number when he is ready to ship. That reminds me I need to get back to work and pay for them ;) .
Quote from: Janbouli on June 13, 2016, 07:05:14 AM
Thank you John, I really like this kind of build thread.
Thanks Jan
The workbench is filling up with stained wood and castings to paint. This first picture is the wood and castings for the main bins.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-140616165805.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-140616165805.jpeg)
I put the wood that is ready for assembly in labeled cups which helps save time looking for the piece I want during the assembly process.
On this bench I have the rest of the bin pieces drying and the roof wood and castings.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-140616165850.jpeg)
On my center bench is the platform castings ready for the paint booth and the roof and conveyer wood parts in the process of staining.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-140616165929.jpeg)
Finally, for today is one of the methods you can use to establish whether the old FSM kit you bought off from eBay years ago is authentic.
If you look closely in this picture you will see the FSM worms. They are what is left of the rubber bands that George used to hold the batches of strip wood together when he packed the kit years ago. They are hard and usually sticking to either one of the casting or the strip wood. They don't hurt anything and are very easy to get off. You will also notice that the bag labels are more yellow than your birth certificate.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-140616170015.jpeg)
I took a few pictures at the end of the day today to show the progress I have been making.
First, on the track work I finished the changes to the mainline in front of Mt. Aiden - now I'm installing the sidings for Brambell's, Walter P's, and Isaac's coal.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190616185155.jpeg)
I also made some progress on the Jacob's Coal build (renaming it Isaac's Coal). The castings are all mounted for painting and I started cycling them through the paint booth for the primer.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190616185224.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190616185224.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190616185317.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190616185317.jpeg)
The bolt castings are starting out with a red primer. I will also have a batch with grey primer for the footing castings. And finally the rest of the castings will get a earth primer coat.
And finally, for tonight, I updated the CADRAIL drawing of the layout and hung it in the doorway as you enter the layout.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190616185251.jpeg)
The pictures I just posted of the layout diagram is a good example of why I don't like the downsized pictures that fit on the screen without the bars. The resolution is completely gone if you want to zoom in to look at a particular area.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190616193606.jpeg)
Wow - the distortion is all being added as the picture is reformatted for the forum. I can zoom in and get nice crisp lines and letters before I send it to the gallery. I'll leave the posted pictures as a lesson learned.
Wow That layout is gigantic
Quote from: ak-milw on June 19, 2016, 09:47:06 PM
Wow That layout is gigantic
There are a many days when I think it is to big to finish. Thanks for stopping by Andy.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190616230405.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190616230405.jpeg)
I took another run at the layout diagram by exporting it with maximum jpeg resolution and large size and it's much more readable.
Here are the castings for Jacob's after they have been cycled through the paint booth.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-190616225811.jpeg)
Nice track plan. Do other members of the household know about the "future expansion"? ;D ;D
Jeff
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on June 20, 2016, 07:44:21 AM
Nice track plan. Do other members of the household know about the "future expansion"? ;D ;D
Jeff
Jeff
Yes, the boss and CEO of the S&S Railroad has agreed to the expansion - I have to finish the area I have started before putting holes in the walls. That will be a few years.
My layout time the last few days has been an hour here and a couple hours there. I have spend most of the time working on the benchwork and laying track. The summer is flying by and I haven't got anywhere near as far as I expected to on the upper level track work.
This past weekend I took a trip to Greenfield Village with the family. As always, I took some prototype pictures to help with my modeling. Greenfield Village is a great place for that. Here are a few examples: Cedar shingles and siding.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-280616171144.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-280616171110.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-280616171246.jpeg)
http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-280616171214.jpeg
Wheel Lathe for my upcoming machine shop.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-280616171005.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-280616170936.jpeg)
Wheel assembly machine.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-280616171033.jpeg)
Belt driven machine shop.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-280616171317.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-280616171317.jpeg)
I spent most of the day laying track on the upper level. I also put in the sidings to Brambell's and Walter P's. A few more days and we should be able run trains over the Mt. Aiden Trestle.
Quote from: S&S RR on June 29, 2016, 07:46:01 PM
I spent most of the day laying track on the upper level. I also put in the sidings to Brambell's and Walter P's. A few more days and we should be able run trains over the Mt. Aiden Trestle.
John,
Congrats to the track gang. Running trains is always a good thinng.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on June 29, 2016, 07:52:34 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on June 29, 2016, 07:46:01 PM
I spent most of the day laying track on the upper level. I also put in the sidings to Brambell's and Walter P's. A few more days and we should be able run trains over the Mt. Aiden Trestle.
John,
Congrats to the track gang. Running trains is always a good thinng.
Tom ;D
Tom
Thanks - we have lots of track to put down this summer. My goal is to have all the track operational this year.
Yesterday, I fabricated a Gatorfoam base for the my Jacob's build and decided on a final location. I had to bring in a blasting crew to make some extra room.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-020716075611.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-020716075640.jpeg)
Reworking the layout...
dave
Quote from: deemery on July 02, 2016, 09:50:05 AM
Reworking the layout...
dave
Dave
I only removed about a half a pound of plaster. The structure just looks better at that angle to me.
Here is a picture of the underside of the gatorfoam base with all of the joints reinforced with wood. It turned out nice and ridged. Just the right height - and it will be backed up with 3/4 inch plywood so it should stay where I put it. I will add a few more wood strips out to the corners to make sure everything is supported.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-020716162702.jpeg)
My neighbor was a combat engineer in Vietnam. One evening we got to talking about all the cool things you can do with detcord. :-)
dave
Just before I left on my fishing trip I ordered a bump hat - baseball hat with plastic inserts to protect my head that no longer has hair to cover the bumps from under the train table. I also ordered a head lamp, so I will be all set to start building the 3 helixes inside the mountains.
Today, I worked under the layout building the helixes using my new bump hat and lamp. It's like working in a mine but it sure helps. No more holding a flashlight with one hand and trying to do something that requires both hands. I will try to remember to post a picture tomorrow.
John,
Been there and have the t-shirt to prove it. How's the back after the day under the layout?
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on July 10, 2016, 07:15:27 PM
John,
Been there and have the t-shirt to prove it. How's the back after the day under the layout?
Tom ;D
Hi Tom
The back is hurting - but I don't know if it was the work under the layout or all the power washing I've been doing the last few days. ;)
This week my train time has been devoted to building the bench work inside Mount Aiden that will carry the Narrow gauge railroad (I need to come up with a name for the HOn3 line) on a return loop.
This series of helixes is going to be a lot of work but I think I will be glad I did it.
I haven't found a way to take a picture of what I'm doing so the activity on this build thread has been light. I will see what I can do about that next week.
My plan for the helixes is to build all the support structure ( I'm working on that now) and then actually build the helix on my work bench in sections including track and feeder wiring. I should get the first few sections installed this week. I will know then how well this process will work. There will be four helix builds before this project is complete.
Quote from: S&S RR on July 16, 2016, 09:04:56 AM
My plan for the helixes is to build all the support structure ( I'm working on that now) and then actually build the helix on my work bench in sections including track and feeder wiring. I should get the first few sections installed this week. I will know then how well this process will work. There will be four helix builds before this project is complete.
John,
That will certainly be interesting. Building the helix in sections will definitely be worth seeing.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on July 16, 2016, 05:06:29 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on July 16, 2016, 09:04:56 AM
My plan for the helixes is to build all the support structure ( I'm working on that now) and then actually build the helix on my work bench in sections including track and feeder wiring. I should get the first few sections installed this week. I will know then how well this process will work. There will be four helix builds before this project is complete.
John,
That will certainly be interesting. Building the helix in sections will definitely be worth seeing.
Tom ;D
Tom
Thanks for stopping by the thread - I will start taking some pictures - I hope this works - it will sure help my back!
Here is a picture of the bump hat and headlamp that I talked about in a previous post. The best $20 I've spent in a long time. It is basically a baseball hat with a plastic liner that keeps me from taking the skin off my head while I'm under the layout. The light is always shining where I want it. I have had to cut out a lot of old bench work from my previous layout to make room for the new helixes.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170716175538.jpeg)
Ops! The picture is a little big - I forgot to cut down the resolution when I posted it to the gallery.
Here is a picture of the area I'm currently working on. The plywood template is just laying on top of the benchwork so I can draw lines to locate the cork roadbed for the Narrow Gauge Line. The Narrow Gauge RR will take on loop through this area and then disappear into the portal and into a helix which will take it down to a level where it can travel underneath the layout and then back up a helix on the opposite side of the layout. This will allow for continuous running during open houses etc. The standard gauge mainline will run next to the Narrow Gauge for a short distance. The area in front of the track work will have a number of structures. I have two wooden portals to build and then this area behind the track will be filled in with plaster and covered with Aspen trees and scenery. It will make a nice backdrop for the small town in the foreground.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170716211428.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170716211428.jpeg)
These next two pictures are the area underneath the benchwork in this area. I have removed two large garbage cans full of wood that was the remaining benchwork from my previous layout. The 2x4 risers hold the mountain up and the helix will run 7 complete loops in this area to get down to the level I need to clear all the benchwork and make my way to the other side of the layout. The plastic pipe you see running through the center of the mountain is from the floor drain under the dishwasher upstairs. You need to think about these things when you have all basement layout. I also have a floor drain in the laundry room under the washing machine - just in case.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170716211353.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170716211503.jpeg)
I think I have every tool I own laying somewhere under the layout after this tear out project. Today, the new construction began. I have cut the first few sections of the new helix and will test fit them before taking them back to the workbench for roadbed, track, wiring, and guard rail installation. I plan on adding foam board guard rails to all of the track work that will be out of site on the layout. After the assembly work is complete I will then install them back into the mountain in sections. At least that is the plan - we will see how it goes.
Today, I got the first loop of the helix laid out cut and moved to the work bench. Now for the real test - assembly on the workbench and then installation into the layout. I should know by the end of the week if this is going to work.
Hail the progressing model railroad builder! I haven't looked at this forum since I started packing for St. John, NB in May, what with an AP demo in June and driving to Indy over the 4th. But I wore the forum shirt at the NTS and your work is inspiring.
Quote from: jbvb on July 19, 2016, 02:36:13 PM
Hail the progressing model railroad builder! I haven't looked at this forum since I started packing for St. John, NB in May, what with an AP demo in June and driving to Indy over the 4th. But I wore the forum shirt at the NTS and your work is inspiring.
James
Thanks for stopping by the thread and seeing what I'm up too.
I took some pictures of my helix build process today. I will walk through the process of building one of the sections (there will be approximately 150 sections like this to complete the return loops inside the mountains on the S&S RR).
The first step is to fit the pieces of benchwork together under the layout and make sure everything goes together correctly. I then number the ends so I can get them back together again, once I have the track on them. The sections then make their way to my workbench where it is much easier to work on them.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210716192914.jpeg)
The next step is to add the cork roadbed. This section is an HOn3 helix - for the under the layout track work I'm using a minimum radius of 24 inches and a maximum grade of 3 percent. Most of the helix will be at 2 percent but there are a few local sections that will be at 3 percent to work my way around and through all the existing benchwork and braces that can't be change. I'm nailing the cork roadbed with an air nailer using brads.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210716193143.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210716193143.jpeg)
The next step is to add the track - I use track templates to make sure all the curves are a true radius. In this under the layout track work the track will be nailed down - no glue and no blast.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210716193422.jpeg)
Next, I add the jumper wires. My rule is 2 positive and 2 negative jumpers per section of flex track. It's a lot easier to do the soldiering on the bench now than have to stand on your head and soldier a jumper under the layout latter if we loose one.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210716193301.jpeg)
At this point the rails get a very good cleaning and inspection. The next time I have to clean them they will be under the layout. All accessible, but much harder on the back to clean.
The final step on the workbench is to add the guard rails. These foam board rails are there to protect the locomotives and rolling stock from finding the floor in the event of a derailment in the areas where the operator can not see the equipment. I nail the strips using the air nailer and then add a bead of glue along the top for added strength.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210716193343.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210716193343.jpeg)
The next step is to install the sections under the layout. I will take a few pictures as I go through this process on this first helix.
Yesterday, I added the new braces and supports for the first sections. Wayne Olson was over and he made up 4 or 5 more sections so I should be able to get the first loop in this week :) . We also made some real progress in speeding up the build process - we have a lot of sections to build. I think this 2 - 3 month side track will really make the layout run better and display better for open houses. It is a lot of work but I think it will be worth it.
Lots of work ahead John, but worth it in the long run.
Quote from: ak-milw on July 24, 2016, 11:44:30 AM
Lots of work ahead John, but worth it in the long run.
Andy
Thanks for stopping by the thread. Yes - I agree, and the changes really setup the two long term expansions.
I spent most of this week installing the first few sections of the helix. It looks like the process of assembling on the work bench and then installing the sections is going to work. I need to figure out how to take a picture of the helix inside the mountain when I'm done.
Today, I spent most of the day pulling the wires for the helixes that will be installed inside the mountains. It meant crawling under the layout from one end to the other many, many times. I may need help getting out of bed tomorrow.
Quote from: S&S RR on July 30, 2016, 07:18:44 PM
.....crawling under the layout from one end to the other many, many times. I may need help getting out of bed tomorrow.....
Isn't it fun getting to a certain age. :'(
Quote from: GPdemayo on July 31, 2016, 10:00:26 AM
Quote from: S&S RR on July 30, 2016, 07:18:44 PM
.....crawling under the layout from one end to the other many, many times. I may need help getting out of bed tomorrow.....
Isn't it fun getting to a certain age. :'(
Oh yes, great fun.
Today, I started pulling the wires for all the new track that I'm installing. Both for the new helix systems and the upper levels of the layout. It's a great use of energy - I pull another set of wires every time I crawl under the layout. Nothing like have a bunch of projects going at once. ;) The system I worked out for the building the helix on my work bench and assembling the sections underneath the layout is working out well. I know I need pictures. Every time I get under the layout it's, oh yea, I was supposed to bring the camera in here on the next trip. :( .
I received a very nice package from from forum member Tom Boyd this week. If you have been following the F&SM thread you saw the brick structures in Franklin, like Porky's Place along with the very unique brick roadways in Franklin. We discussed that George used castings for these from Trains of Texas which are no longer available. Well, Tom sent me one of these castings this week and asked if I would make him a mold, and a few extra castings, and while I was at it, make a mold or two for myself. I love the forum! Thanks Tom. I have great plans for these castings. Streets, scratch built buildings, foundations, a wall or two, just to name a few. I will be posting a few pictures of the casting process on this thread as this project progresses.
This brick pattern to me really looks great when you get it painted and weathered. It is a very realistic old style brick. I measured the bricks and they are approximately 4 x 12 (using my HO scale and my 50 something eyes) on average. Yes, it is a little large for HO scale standard bricks, but it looks good. I did a quick search on the internet and there are a number of commercially available bricks in this size range.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-040816204850.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-040816204850.jpeg)
Good evening! I've been away on a fishing trip for the past week or so. Tomorrow, I'm back to work on the layout. I enjoyed the time with my family and came back from the trip ready to get the trains running. Along with all the other projects I have going right now on the layout.
Note: Posts for August 12 - August 17 were lost in the great server meltdown. The administrator who will remain nameless documented this in his post dated August 17th. Since I can't remember what I posted I will post a few pictures that were on my camera from yesterday which will bring us up-to-date on the build progress.
I have been spending most of my layout build time working on the helixes inside the mountains of the layout. This is still a great way of having continuous run trains for open houses etc., but it has turned out to be much more work than I expected.
I have two other fill in project going that allow me to sit and let my back take a rest after being under the layout. The first is some Trains of Texas wall castings described above. And the second is a FSM Structure build of Jacob's Fuel. Here are a couple pictures to show where I'm at on the build. The strip wood is all stained, the castings have been primed, the base has been built, and I'm starting to add the supports to the back of the bin walls.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170816195948.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170816195913.jpeg)
Here is a picture of one of the helix sections being prepared top side. It will be installed in the mountain to the right.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-170816200030.jpeg)
You can also see my bump hat and head lamp that has proven very useful on this project.
I love your workbench. It busy and that is a good thing. For some reason a helix reminds me of life at home ... long way around to getting things moving forward. (Hmm, do trains go backwards on a helix, or only forward?)
Quote from: MartyO on August 17, 2016, 11:24:37 PM
I love your workbench. It busy and that is a good thing. For some reason a helix reminds me of life at home ... long way around to getting things moving forward. (Hmm, do trains go backwards on a helix, or only forward?)
Marty
Thanks for stopping by the thread. I clean my workbench at the start of every project and within 30 min. or so it looks like the pictures. As to helix directions - mine are all going forward no matter which way you point the locomotive. ;)
One more loop to go and the first HOn3 helix will be complete.
Will you be able to get any pictures of it, just curious.
Quote from: ak-milw on August 23, 2016, 08:17:44 PM
Will you be able to get any pictures of it, just curious.
Andy
I'm going to try to get a few pictures when it's complete. It's crowded in there so I'm not sure how they will turn out.
Today, I started assembling the walls for bins on the Jacob's Coal build.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250816211709.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250816211709.jpeg)
I also discovered there was more cutting inside the mountain to install the last loop of the helix. If all goes well pictures helix pictures tomorrow.
Today, was chore day so I didn't get that helix done. The plan is to spend the day finishing it tomorrow. I recently was asked why I take the time to post progress pictures to this thread. I posted this on a new layout build thread here on the forum today and thought I should repost it here.
I had an experience at a train convention a few years ago that keeps me posting to my thread. A gentleman in a wheel chair came up to me and introduced himself and said - John my layout building days are over but I check your thread every day to see how your doing on yours. He said he didn't feel comfortable posting but really enjoyed the progress pictures. So every chance I get I post a few pictures for **** and thank GOD that I can still work on my layout.
I hope your still following along. ;)
Amen!
Well, today I made lots of progress. And the day started with a design change. I was having problems with the grade required to get around all of the structural supports holding up the mountain for the last loop of the helix. It was going to take more than the 4 % maximum down grade so I decided to finish the down grade in the straight sections between the mountains. This solution required a lot of cutting but in nonstructural areas. This first helix is the HOn3 return loop and the locomotives will generally be running in one direction so this helix will be the down helix after the train has made a complete run on the top level of the layout. The train will then go down this helix and underneath the bench work to the other side of the layout where it will go up another helix which will have a 2% grade (this helix will actually be used by both the HO and HOn3 trains). This system eliminates the need for hidden hard to reach turnouts which I know would be an issue during open houses. The train sizes will be limited because it is a Narrow Gauge Line so I don't expect to have trouble running either direction. When I got the call for dinner, I was just starting to install the last two sections - so pictures will wait until tomorrow.
Hi,
John, nice work on the helix... I have to crawl under the benchwork but could stand into the helix for now...It´s always a lot of work to make changes to the benchwork later.
The bins looking great,too.
I always enjoy the progress photos on other layouts. Thanks for sharing.
Regards,Chris
Quote from: Twist67 on August 28, 2016, 07:36:27 AM
Hi,
John, nice work on the helix... I have to crawl under the benchwork but could stand into the helix for now...It´s always a lot of work to make changes to the benchwork later.
The bins looking great,too.
I always enjoy the progress photos on other layouts. Thanks for sharing.
Regards,Chris
Chris
Thanks for stopping by. Yes - adding a helix to the layout after the benchwork and mountain were complete is a lot of work but I think it will be worth it in the end. I couldn't have done this before the mountains because the track would have been destroyed during the plaster work phase. Any way I'm almost done with this inside the mountain helix. The helix on the other side of the layout will be under a city so I will be able to stand in the center and build it the traditional way.
I'm out in the gazebo this evening catching up on the forum and celebrating the completion of the intermountain helix. I took a few pictures so I will attempt to explain what I have been up to the past couple of months. My layout has 4 levels - but the scenery is continuous so you can't really tell which level a particular scene is on. The upper most level is HOn3 and was originally a point to point design. The reversing loops required turnouts that were way out of reach and would require a crawl under the layout if anything went wrong. So I decided to add two helixes at each end of the Narrow Gauge Line that allow the train to go down below the layout and return to the other side.
After two months of cutting and fitting and assembling and reassembling we have about 6 feet of visible track. The holes will be filled and that old portal will be covered. The portal is actually one of the few things that are still visible from my old layout. Not for long though.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-280816203611.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-280816203611.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-230314144745.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-230314144745.jpeg)
The second picture is what I hope this area will look like when the scenery is complete. I planted a few poplar trees here as a color check and hundreds more poplar and pine trees will be added to complete this area. The back side of this mountain is about 90 % complete and I plan on putting the final touches on it as soon as the trains are running. In this area most of the rock work will fade into the background. I have a few structures planned for the foreground.
At this point the HOn3 line has dropped 4 inches by going through a loop of helix that is inside the mountain we are looking at. I couldn't find a way to get a picture of this loop. After leaving this level the helix is a series of 5 loops. The helix is actually an oval that is 72 inches long and 48 inches wide (that's what fit inside the mountain). This gives us 200 inches of running for each loop so 3.5 percent grade allows us to drop 7 inches per loop. The grade is not constant because there was a lot of internal bracing for the mountains that I had to work around. This helix will generally be the down grade helix so I allowed for a maximum grade of 4 percent but most of it is at 2.5 percent grade. Here is a picture inside the mountain as the track leaves this level and starts on it's way down.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-280816202747.jpeg)
The cork you see in the picture above is left over from my old layout. You can also see the plaster spills from the mountain construction that would have destroyed any track work installed before the completion of the mountains. As described earlier in the thread, each section of track work was assembled on my workbench and then the ends were joined - where I could get at them. Code 55 HOn3 track is hard to work with on the work bench - it is extremely difficult standing on your head inside a mountain. I have a few soldier iron burns to prove it. The black artist board was nailed and glued to the edges of the plywood strips that hold the track to keep any derailments contained. It's a long drop to the floor in this area.
The plywood benchwork in this area was actually inside a mountain on my old layout and now just serves as a base for the new layout and new mountains.
The next few pictures show the view as you look inside the mountain through this top hatch.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-280816203611.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-280816203537.jpeg)
If you look closely you can see a little bit of 5 of the loops. You will notice that I have staggered them for two reasons. First, I need to be able to reach all the track for cleaning, and second I need to work my way around all the braces that are holding up the plaster mountains.
Here are a few pictures from inside the mountain.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-280816203818.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-280816203738.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-280816203707.jpeg)
This last picture is three of the loops just underneath the hatch.
I mentioned a couple days ago that I eliminated the final loop by doing some cutting. Here is a picture of the bench work surgery that was required.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-280816203508.jpeg)
You can see the pink foam that I have stored under the layout waiting for the day when it is time to fill that hole topside.
Here is a picture of the track work that filled the path I cut through the benchwork.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-280816203938.jpeg)
This picture was taken during a test fit before I added the black guard rails.
Here is a picture of the last two sections going under the layout to complete the helix and start the long journey to the other side of the layout.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-280816204141.jpeg)
The straighter section will start the journey through this tunnel. You can see the start of the supports along the right hand side. It will attach along side the power conduit. I actually got this section completed today but a picture will wait until I crawl under the layout tomorrow.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-280816203438.jpeg)
The wall you see at the end of this tunnel is 20 feet away. At that point the track will take a 90 degree turn and run another 20 feet. Then another 90 degree turn and 30 feet of straight. Finally, it will turn another 90 degrees run 10 more feet and start up the helix on the other side of the layout. I will be making up 6 foot long sections to complete this track work. The first one took about an hour to build and another 2 hours to install. So I have some work ahead of me to get to the second helix. I also have to connect all of the drop wires that you see hanging in the pictures to the main buss wires.
Great progress your making John. You just gave me an idea of how I am going to keep trains from falling to the floor from derailments in the hidden track area.
Quote from: sdrees on August 28, 2016, 10:50:21 PM
Great progress your making John. You just gave me an idea of how I am going to keep trains from falling to the floor from derailments in the hidden track area.
Steve
Thanks for stopping by the thread. I think you will be glad you used the guard rails, most of the problems occur where you can't see the trains. I know they have saved me some money. The biggest issue when you are working on a layout is having stuff get pushed into an area where you can't see it and causing a derailment.
John, is that blue pipe electrical conduit, or water lines? If the latter, you should make sure it's not that nasty polybutelyne stuff that we had in our house (and ultimately had to rip out - replacing -every water line- was NO FUN.)
dave
Quote from: deemery on August 29, 2016, 10:30:40 AM
John, is that blue pipe electrical conduit, or water lines? If the latter, you should make sure it's not that nasty polybutelyne stuff that we had in our house (and ultimately had to rip out - replacing -every water line- was NO FUN.)
dave
Hi Dave
Thanks for stopping by the thread.
Those are electrical conduits. Actually, they are the wires for the power switches for the main control panel. The only time they are hot is when the train room power is on. All of the water lines in our house are copper. The white plastic pipe is a drain line for the kitchen and laundry room floor drains.
Glad to hear that. No one should have to go through what we endured. :P
dave
Today, I spent a few hours making up the six foot sections of track. I have three ready to install. I think I will continue the under the layout work for a few more days and then switch to the top side upper levels for a change of pace. It seems like your making more progress when the work can be seen. ;)
Well, tonight I can report that we have turned the corner. I completed the track work along the first tunnel and have turned the corner and made it 6 feet on the other side.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-310816204957.jpeg)
Here is a picture from topside - construction of one of the straight sections.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-310816205124.jpeg)
The corner we are working in is the same corner that is in this top side photograph.
I'm using a wood side rail on one side to mount with and to keep the wood from warping. I still have to add the artist board guard rail to the other side of this section when the track and wiring are complete.
I spent the day yesterday cutting away old benchwork underneath the layout to make room for the next phase of my return loop project. I will try to get a few pictures to post this afternoon. I filled the 6 gallon shop vac with sawdust.
My back feels like I spent the whole day yesterday cutting overhead. Why do I try to do these projects all at once?
Today, I spent most of my time working on the projects on top of the bench work. I finally got back to the Trains of Texas brick wall castings. I promised Tom Boyd I would document the steps I go through to make molds and castings so tonight I'm posting a few pictures of my mold making procedure. This is the way I do it - and as they say in the fine print your results may vary. I learned and relearned this process over the past 20 years or so but I think the best instructions I have seen are the videos that Dave Frary put out.
First step is to make a box out of artist board. I hot glue these together. Make sure you where gloves. Hot glue burns hurt!
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-020916204323.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-020916204323.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-020916204615.jpeg)
Here are a couple of pictures of a cutting tool a bought from Micro Mart a few years back that makes the slitting of the artist board real easy. I highly recommend this tool.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-020916204414.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-020916204454.jpeg)
Keeping the blade protected when not in use is also highly recommended.
Here is a setup picture showing the gloves I use for the hot gluing process. Now I switch to latex gloves for the mold making process.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-020916204650.jpeg)
I bought one of those cutters a few years back, they sure work nice. I use it for making odd sized strip wood also.
Quote from: ak-milw on September 02, 2016, 09:07:44 PM
I bought one of those cutters a few years back, they sure work nice. I use it for making odd sized strip wood also.
I haven't tried it for strip wood. Interesting. I have a small table saw that I use to cut my own strip wood. Except for the real small stuff. I may give this little tool a try for that.
Here is a picture of my setup just before I put on the latex gloves and opened the bottles.
I use 3 disposable cups for this process two that are small and exactly the same. I pour equal parts of A in component in 1 cup and B component in the other. This is critical MUST HAVE EQUAL PARTS OF A AND B. I have had a few bad experiences when I was at the end of the bottles and tried to get away with just a little more of one of the components.
I always have the thinner on hand if the mixture is not liquid and hard to stir. For todays pour the A component was nice and thin and the B component was like tooth paste. When I poured them into the big cup the mixture stirred nicely so I didn't use thinner. The key to this process is to combine the two components by pour both together without introducing unwanted air bubbles. The stir process must be very thorough but not fast so you make air pockets and bubbles. You have to mix so that the mixture becomes the same shade of blue. No streaks of white or darker blue. When I'm happy with the stirring I start pouring the mixture into the box - start in one corner away form the master casting. Once you get a stream flowing out of the cup then cover the master casting completely. You need enough of the mixture to completely cover the master casting and provide for a nice base to the casting. I like about 1/8 of an inch above the casting. More is better but expensive. The key is to have enough mold material around the casting so the mold doesn't tear when you remove casting form it.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-020916214350.jpeg)
Here is a picture after the pour. And yes, I use the rubber hammer. I gently vibrate the bench and tap the side of the mold box to make sure any air bubbles trapped in the mixture make their way to the top and away from the working surface of our mold. On this pour I didn't get any visible air bubbles.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-020916204814.jpeg)
Next step - after you let it cure for about 6 hours - is to remove the artist board box. The bottles say 4 hours cure - I give it 6 just to be safe.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-020916204930.jpeg)
I simply cut and tear the white artist board away from the mold. You need to be careful not to twist or crack
Tom's hard to find master casting.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-020916205024.jpeg)
This is what the back of the casting looks like after the box is removed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-020916205024.jpeg)
The latex rubber seeps underneath the casting leaving some flash to be removed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-020916205102.jpeg)
Most of this will come off by simply rubbing it off with your finger. I use an exacto knife on the stubborn areas.
Then you simple peal the mold off the master casting. Again, being very careful not to twist and brake the master casting. I take this process very slowly.
Here is a picture of our finished mold.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-020916205136.jpeg)
This casting had some very deep mortar joints in some areas which did pull off in some random areas.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-020916205217.jpeg)
On this brick pattern I don't think it will make a difference but I'm going to clean up the casting and try using some release agent on the next mold to see if that helps. I very rarely use release agent - because most casting don't require it.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-020916205248.jpeg)
I'm simple going to pick and vacuum the small pieces of latex left on the casting to clean it up. I will be making a few more molds with the blue latex. I'm then going to make some more durable molds out of the 10:1 latex mold material. I plan on make many castings of this set of molds. I have big plans for these casting as I described in a previous post.
I plan on making both plaster and resin castings using these molds.
On one of my trips under the layout today I took a few pictures of the rest of the tunnel system.
Here is a picture looking down the long tunnel at the back of the layout.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-020916205550.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-020916205550.jpeg)
It is 20 feet from one end to the other. All of the old benchwork behind the mountains (above the tunnel in this picture) was what I cutout yesterday to make room for the loops between the four different levels of the layout. I removed some more today and I think I have plenty of room to work and haven't hurt the structure holding up the mountains.
Here is a picture as you turn the corner again. This tunnel runs 30 feet before making another turn.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-020916205330.jpeg)
As you can see, I have a lot of stuff stored in this section. The boxes contain 100's of rock molds used to make the mountains, and I also have a stash of Caspia for my pine trees.
John,
The release agent "might" help, but you have already lost much of the detail in the first cast. I find that the silicone is not tough enough for fine cracks and undercuts. The Smooth-On Mold Star 30 silicone is extremely tough and has longer life, plus the fine crack casting will works well with it.
John,
I agree with Marty on the Star 30 silicone for molds. It is tougher than what MM sells. I've work with both.
With the Micro Mark RTV, I use some Johnson's Baby Powder on the mold and this helps to release the mold in the fine cracks and tiny details.
Tom ;D
You have been one busy guy.....looking good John. 8)
With all the work under the mountain, we'll have to rename you "The Tunnel Rat". ;D
Quote from: MartyO on September 02, 2016, 11:09:55 PM
John,
The release agent "might" help, but you have already lost much of the detail in the first cast. I find that the silicone is not tough enough for fine cracks and undercuts. The Smooth-On Mold Star 30 silicone is extremely tough and has longer life, plus the fine crack casting will works well with it.
Marty
Thanks for stopping by the thread and for the advice.
I have tried a number of mold materials over the years, but not this one , so I just ordered some to give it a try. I'm going to try Micro Marts 10:1 next to see if it will hold the small features in this casting better. And when my Mold Star 30 arrives we will give it a try. I will post my results.
The deep mortar lines in this casting is what gives it the character so I want to reproduce them with every casting.
Quote from: ACL1504 on September 03, 2016, 07:51:34 AM
John,
I agree with Marty on the Star 30 silicone for molds. It is tougher than what MM sells. I've work with both.
With the Micro Mark RTV, I use some Johnson's Baby Powder on the mold and this helps to release the mold in the fine cracks and tiny details.
Tom ;D
Thanks Tom - as I said in the response to Marty's post I just ordered some Star 30 and will give it a try. I have had good luck with the MicroMart product for rock moldings but this casting has some very unique mortar lines that are going to be a challenge. As always, thanks for the advice.
Quote from: GPdemayo on September 03, 2016, 09:45:56 AM
You have been one busy guy.....looking good John. 8)
With all the work under the mountain, we'll have to rename you "The Tunnel Rat". ;D
Thanks Greg
Just what I need is another nick name. Thanks for stopping by the thread. This week I will be spending most of my time on the visible track work.
Here are a couple pictures of the trees we made yesterday. Wayne Olson came over and we went into tree production mode - all but the ground foam and drying was done in my gazebo in the back yard. Total count for the day 193 aspen trees about 50/50 between the green and yellow foliage. And 27 pine trees. I ordered another case of super trees so we can do it again next weekend.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-040916225024.jpeg)
This is the first half of the green aspen trees.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-040916224948.jpeg)
101 aspen and 27 pine trees in this picture. We sure need a lot of them to forest this layout.
Those tunneling pictures remind be of the "Great Escape". I would install a creeper and a rope on a set of rails....
great job on the trees. Do you have a special formula for soaking the trunks before hanging so they stay straight?
Happy tree planting. You should get HO Scale credits for reducing green house gas emissions!
Quote from: Rail and Tie on September 05, 2016, 01:31:54 PM
Those tunneling pictures remind be of the "Great Escape". I would install a creeper and a rope on a set of rails....
great job on the trees. Do you have a special formula for soaking the trunks before hanging so they stay straight?
Happy tree planting. You should get HO Scale credits for reducing green house gas emissions!
Darryl
As for the creeper, see page 1 of this thread. ;) My knees can't take crawling through there anymore.
I soak the trees in the matte medium and add a clamp to the curved ones while they dry. I also have a mountain layout so I'm always planting on a hill so I like having some curve to them.
As soon as I get the track work done, there will be lots of planting to do. I'm really looking forward to seeing what the mountains look like with all those aspen and pine trees. I sure need a lot of them to make it look the way I want it to.
As for the credits - I wonder if I can get away with paying HO scale taxes.
Thanks for stopping by the thread.
Here is a picture of the tree cue after I added the green trees.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-050916181119.jpeg)
The area they are sitting in will someday be a harbor seen with a ocean side town on the mountain side. I have plans for a few of Doug's kits in this area.
I feel another project coming on. Workbench number 2 is ready.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-050916181156.jpeg)
I have the Jacob's Coal build on my main workbench. The castings are curing on workbench number 3.
Tomorrow, I'm planing on getting back to the track work. I want to meet my goal of trains running this year.
That is quite an operation you've got there John!!
(someday...) ::)
John
Quote from: Cuse on September 05, 2016, 09:00:27 PM
That is quite an operation you've got there John!!
(someday...) ::)
John
John
I know what you mean about someday - I spent 38 years, 6 days a week, 10-12 hours a day, waiting for the opportunity to work on my layout the way I wanted to. I'm enjoying every minute of it now. My modeling during my working years was a way to relax and unwind. Now that I'm retired, it amazing to me that a day can go by so fast when I'm working on the layout. Time really does fly when your having fun. I feel very blessed to have the time to do what I enjoy. Thanks for stopping by the thread, and enjoy the Narrow Gauge Convention. I'm looking forward to a full report. I don't plan on missing very many NG Conventions, but I just could not swing it this year with all that is going on.
I have good news to report on my casting project. The MicroMart 10:1 worked great. The detail mortar joints reproduced without the mold failing and pulling the detail. I have completed the mold and made one hydrocal and one resign casting without degradation of the mold. I also received the Star 30 mold material today - as soon as my master casting is ready to come out of the second MicroMart 10:1 mold (24 hour cure time) I will give it a try. I sure like the price of this better than the MicroMart material. I hope it works good. Here is a picture of the mold and resin casting. The resign material in this case is the MicroMart 600.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-060916195804.jpeg)
Hi John:
Trees look great. Keep up the good work. Like thwe casting of the brick wall to.
Karl
Quote from: postalkarl on September 07, 2016, 11:36:33 AM
Hi John:
Trees look great. Keep up the good work. Like thwe casting of the brick wall to.
Karl
Karl
Thanks for stopping by the thread and for the encouraging words. I'm going to have to learn how to build structures as fast as you do to get this layout done.
John, I just read your comments on wearing gloves while using the hot glue gun.
I have burned my fingers so many times I wonder why I never thought of gloves.
Thanks for the tip.
Quote from: darrylhuffman on September 09, 2016, 02:14:49 AM
John, I just read your comments on wearing gloves while using the hot glue gun.
I have burned my fingers so many times I wonder why I never thought of gloves.
Thanks for the tip.
Hi Darryl
Thanks for stopping by the thread. I got the idea from Frank Baker when I visited his layout in AZ a few years ago. He had this pair of white gloves all covered with hot glue and explained he never got the hot glue gun out without putting on his special gloves. Like most things in model railroading it was such a good idea I copied it and bought some. They work great - no more dancing the hot glue on my hand dance. Just plain old white cotton gloves do the trick.
I completed the next step in our Trains of Texas casting project. I tried the cheaper Smooth-on mold material. It worked better than the blue 1:1 from Micro-Mart but not even close to the 10:1 Micro-Mart material at holding the fine detail. I will be using this mold and the one from the blue 1:1 Micro-Mart for my road castings where the mortar detail will be filled in more anyway. I should get a few good hydrocal castings from the molds.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-100916101446.jpeg)
The next step in this project will be the Smooth-On Star 30 mold material that was recommended by Marty and Tom.
I will be following this with interest.
I have tried the MicroMark and Alumilite.
I have an unopened box from Smooth On to play with.
I find making castings addictive.
And just as expensive as other addictive products.
Quote from: darrylhuffman on September 10, 2016, 10:50:56 AM
I will be following this with interest.
I have tried the MicroMark and Alumilite.
I have an unopened box from Smooth On to play with.
I find making castings addictive.
And just as expensive as other addictive products.
Hi Darryl
Let us know how you make out when you try the Smooth-On product. As to our addiction, my wife says it could be worse.
Thanks for following the thread.
I've tried most of the various Smooth-on resins. I found Task 2/3/4 hold detail very well. And yes it is addictive.
Quote from: MartyO on September 10, 2016, 08:07:58 PM
I've tried most of the various Smooth-on resins. I found Task 2/3/4 hold detail very well. And yes it is addictive.
Marty
Thanks again for the tip. I tend to use hydrocal for most of my castings - but I'm going to be making a few structures out of resign that are going to be right up front and within reach. Fixing a paint defect from a bump is bad but a chip can really ruin a model.
I made a lot of progress with the benchwork inside the mountain. This is all track work that is necessary but not visible. It will be a few weeks before this project is completed. I also decided to add a hidden yard inside this mountain (Mount Kara - my Grandson says we need a mountain named after his mom), that will be operational by camera. I need storage for my rolling stock and this will be a great place to do it. I can make 12 foot long sidings - I just have to decide how many I want to add. This area will be completely covered so dust will be much less of a problem. It will also be accessible when needed by crawling under the layout. Very easy to reach and work on.
Does anyone have any suggestions on a camera system to use? I'm looking for a system that gives me visibility for about a 4x12 foot area on a small monitor that will be mounted by my control panel. I basically need the backup camera from an automobile. I have seen them used on layouts that I have visited over the years but it has only now become an area of interest.
I also decided to pull ahead the two small HOn3 trestles needed for Mount Kara and get started with them on that empty work bench that I cleaned off last week.
Tonight, I broke my three projects at a time rule so I could get started on a build for "The First Annual Raymo Build Challenge of 2016".
I will be building the C. C. Crow White Stone Church kit for the layout and detailing the build in a build thread. See the link below to follow along.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-140916182021.jpeg)
http://modelersforum.com/kit-building/c-c-crow-stone-church-first-annual-raymo-build-challenge-2016(img)httpmod/msg52446/#msg52446
I also made some progress on the Trains of Texas Casting project. The Star 30 mold material came in and I poured the mold for the T of T casting.
This will be the final mold for the project. Now it's time to put them to use making both hydrocal and resin castings.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-140916205509.jpeg)
The Star 30 molds are a nice blue color.
Just so we don't loose track the five projects I have going right now are.
1) Finishing the upper level track work.
2) The Trains of Texas wall castings.
3) The two trestles for the HOn3 line.
4) The Jacob's Coal FSM Build.
5) The White Stone Church C. C. Crow build.
We are multi tasking now.
So John.....what are you doing when you are resting yourself? ;D ;D ;D
Quote from: GPdemayo on September 15, 2016, 10:05:58 AM
So John.....what are you doing when you are resting yourself? ;D ;D ;D
Fishing season is about to start. ;)
I tried out the Star 30 mold material today that Marty and Tom recommended. I had 6 molds that I wanted to make so I made up one big batch. I think you get a better mixture if you make bigger pours.
So I made my pours all with hydrocal master castings. A stone round house casting that I need for a future project. Three of the castings from my C.C. Crow White Stone Church build and the Trains of Texas wall casting that we have been working with. I was very happy with the first 5 molds, even with the problems I had with one of the master castings (see the Church thread for the details). They held the details perfectly and look like the will be very durable. Then I took the box off the T of T casting. The mold looked great until I started to pull it loose from the casting. I had a mess - the rubber never cured. The mold is gooey and has lost most of the detail and the casting has this gooey film on it.
Here is a picture showing both the mold and the master casting.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-150916213631.jpeg)
At this point I'm going to let them dry overnight and see if I can save the casting. I have 5 molds so make more castings is not an issue.
I did some research on both the instructions and on the product website and they have multiple warnings that any sulfur in contact with this material will keep it from curing. So some how the T to T casting may have sulphur on it. Or some other chemical that has the same affect. I have made molds from this casting with 4 other mold materials so at this point it could be sulphur but the trial on this casting was a failure.
Here is a picture of the instructions with the sulfur warning. They say that sealing the casting will not help.
Tom, Marty, or anyone else ever run in to this problem. I really like the molds I got from the other castings and would try this material again. I just don't know how to tell if I have sulfur in or on the casting without trying it. It may ruin the master casting if you do.
Is there any chemists out there that can give me a way to test for sulfur before I pour a mold?
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-150916220856.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-150916220856.jpeg)
John, you are not using sulfur based priducts. If you were the sillycone would not cure.
What I was talking about is coating porous materials like wood, hydrocal, pottery, etc. This sealing process prevents the sillycone from soaking into the material and becoming as one. Also, retains the integrity of the master. If you notice there were blue specs in the hydrocal on the flats. Sealing reduces this effect and helps retain details from the master.
See https://www.smooth-on.com/product-line/superseal/ (https://www.smooth-on.com/product-line/superseal/)
As for the gooey mold, most likely not mixing completely or inbalance of part A & B.
Also, you get the same effect using contaminated containers on mixer. To test for sulfur get a PH test strips and distilled water and test the dust of the with it. If acidic it has sulfur.
I find Casting a constant learning experience.LOL
Quote from: MartyO on September 15, 2016, 10:45:06 PM
John, you are not using sulfur based priducts. If you were the sillycone would not cure.
What I was talking about is coating porous materials like wood, hydrocal, pottery, etc. This sealing process prevents the sillycone from soaking into the material and becoming as one. Also, retains the integrity of the master. If you notice there were blue specs in the hydrocal on the flats. Sealing reduces this effect and helps retain details from the master.
See https://www.smooth-on.com/product-line/superseal/ (https://www.smooth-on.com/product-line/superseal/)
As for the gooey mold, most likely not mixing completely or inbalance of part A & B.
Also, you get the same effect using contaminated containers on mixer. To test for sulfur get a PH test strips and distilled water and test the dust of the with it. If acidic it has sulfur.
I find Casting a constant learning experience.LOL
Marty
Thanks for the input - I think this one master casting had something on the surface that is keeping the rubber from curing. I made 6 molds from this pour and 5 of the six worked great. So I think I had it mixed properly. It is probably one of those things that I may never run up against again. I will be buying the Star 30 product again - really like the molds that cured correctly.
John,
Yes, I have run into that very problem. I got some RTV from someone, don't remember from whom, but it didn't cure and was tacky.
I notified the supplier and they said it was probably an old mix. They sent new ones and the probelm was solved. I was also informed that the RTV has a shelf life even is never opened. Not sure they list an expiration date on the product label but it wouldn't hurt to check.
My Micro-Mark RTV says, "Best if used by date on container". Problem is there is no date stamped on the container. So, I'm guessing next time I use it, it won't be any good.
Tom ;D
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on September 16, 2016, 08:07:21 AM
John,
Yes, I have run into that very problem. I got some RTV from someone, don't remember from whom, but it didn't cure and was tacky.
I notified the supplier and they said it was probably an old mix. They sent new ones and the probelm was solved. I was also informed that the RTV has a shelf life even is never opened. Not sure they list an expiration date on the product label but it wouldn't hurt to check.
My Micro-Mark RTV says, "Best if used by date on container". Problem is there is no date stamped on the container. So, I'm guessing next time I use it, it won't be any good.
Tom ;D
Tom ;D
Tom
Thanks for your input. Non of the containers have a date stamp that I can find. I will never know what happened on this one so it's hard to tell if I will have the problem again. I need to find a good way to clean up the master casting.
I have found that the stuff in the bottom of the A and B part container sometines solidifies and is not mixed up into the middle of the containers. A day or two before I use resin or sillycone I lie the container on its side or even upside down to get a proper mix.
Questions;
- The failing mold was it the first or last you poured?
- Did you mix a hold batch fir all the molds at once?
- What was the volume of one if the parts?
- Or did you go by weight?
- did you do a double pour, A in B, then A/B back into cup A?
I have found the tacky happens when one of the parts is not completely muxed, or the temperatures were too low for it to cure. I pre-cure my sillycone molds in the toaster oven for 20-40 minutes at no more than 240 F. Then let them cool fir 24 or more hours. You get less tearing.
Let me try a theory based on doing all the molds from one mix.
- you mix part A in the original container, but do not get the all solids from the bittom
- you repeat with part B but get throughly mixed
- you measure part A into a measuring cup
- you repeat with part B
- you then pour part A into the Part B measuring cup
- you mix the combination up, you think
- since part A is not 100% pure having less hardener ( or is it silicon)
- you pour one mold because the mix at the top of the A/B is in correct proportion
- you continue to pour molds the mix gets better muxed because of the pouring and lifting up and tilting the container
- the last mold fails becasue the ratios change at the bottom if the measuring cup
- then you have an incomplete cure in 24 hours, but might cure in many days/weeks.
Just curious and learning.
Quote from: MartyO on September 17, 2016, 10:31:58 PM
I have found that the stuff in the bottom of the A and B part container sometines solidifies and is not mixed up into the middle of the containers. A day or two before I use resin or sillycone I lie the container on its side or even upside down to get a proper mix.
Questions;
- The failing mold was it the first or last you poured?
- Did you mix a hold batch fir all the molds at once?
- What was the volume of one if the parts?
- Or did you go by weight?
- did you do a double pour, A in B, then A/B back into cup A?
I have found the tacky happens when one of the parts is not completely muxed, or the temperatures were too low for it to cure. I pre-cure my sillycone molds in the toaster oven for 20-40 minutes at no more than 240 F. Then let them cool fir 24 or more hours. You get less tearing.
Let me try a theory based on doing all the molds from one mix.
- you mix part A in the original container, but do not get the all solids from the bittom
- you repeat with part B but get throughly mixed
- you measure part A into a measuring cup
- you repeat with part B
- you then pour part A into the Part B measuring cup
- you mix the combination up, you think
- since part A is not 100% pure having less hardener ( or is it silicon)
- you pour one mold because the mix at the top of the A/B is in correct proportion
- you continue to pour molds the mix gets better muxed because of the pouring and lifting up and tilting the container
- the last mold fails becasue the ratios change at the bottom if the measuring cup
- then you have an incomplete cure in 24 hours, but might cure in many days/weeks.
Just curious and learning.
Marty
All great questions. Here is what I did.
1) Added all of the contents of part B into a 16oz cup.
2) Added most of the contents of Part A into a second 16 oz cup until I had the same level of A as I did in the B cup.
3) Poured the contents of the A and B cups into a third big plastic cup.
4) Stirred until I had no streaks and the clear plastic cup showed no sign of A or B colors.
5) Poured the Trains of Texas wall mold first (it was the biggest and most critical).
6) Continued the pour until I ran out of mold setups. I used most of the batch.
7) I let the molds cure over night.
A few facts:
All of the master castings were hydrocal.
5 of the six were being used for the first time. The Trains of Texas Casting had been used to make 5 molds previous.
It was the only casting in the batch that didn't cure properly.
My theory is that there was a residue from one of the previous mold materials that caused a chemical reaction with this mold material.
It was only a thin layer of material next to the master casting that didn't cure.
One of my tasks for tomorrow is to see if I can clean the residue off the Master Casting without damaging it. Right now it still has a sticky residue on it and most of the features are filled with a sticky mess.
I sure wish I knew for sure what went wrong, so I would know how not to repeat it.
John, alcohol, laquer thinner will help as it desolves resin if it hs not been cured. Otherwise, pick and scaping is needed, don't use any water!
I found where Micro-Mart puts the shelf life dates on their mold materials.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-180916112851.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-180916112851.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-180916112919.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-180916112919.jpeg)
John
Sorry to read about the molding mishap hopefully you'll get it worked out.
Quote from: Twopoint2 on September 18, 2016, 11:57:13 AM
John
Sorry to read about the molding mishap hopefully you'll get it worked out.
Jim
Thanks for stopping by the thread. It happens! As I said before, not sure why in this case but we just keep building.
A quick update on my track work project tonight. I'm approximately half way around the layout with the 3 upper level main lines. Currently I'm inside a mountain again installing two loops of track which will connect the upper levels of the HO mainline. Once I have them completed I will be installing a hidden yard for locomotive & rolling stock storage. As it is currently designed, it will give me storage for 73 pieces of rolling stock without giving up access to any of the track work for maintenance purposes. I will post some pictures of this area when I have completed the work.
Update to my mold making project. A few posts back we were discussing the plastic resins available and it was suggested by Marty that I try the Smooth-on products. I just completed by third batch of castings with their 305 plastic resin and I'm really happy with the results. It is really easy to work with and I'm real happy with how easy it is to get great air bubble free castings. The material is also real easy to work with if you have to make modifications (see my C. C. Crow White Stone Church build thread). Here is a couple pictures of the container and the label for the material that I'm using.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-230916203842.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-230916203911.jpeg)
During this last round of making castings I started making some of the wall castings for future scratch build project. The S&S Railroad Locomotive Works. I should get to this latter this winter. I'm just starting the design process now.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-230916203813.jpeg)
Hi John,
Thank you for this very usefull tips about casting. What about odour with the SMooth on product ????
Eric Quebec city
Quote from: EricQuebec on September 25, 2016, 09:34:32 AM
Hi John,
Thank you for this very usefull tips about casting. What about odour with the SMooth on product ??? ?
Eric Quebec city
Hi Eric
I didn't smell anything with either the mold materials or the plastic resign - I do have a vent fan in my paint booth and run it when I'm using these materials - just in case.
The materials are not cheap - the mold materials and resign for the wall castings for my Locomotive Works project were about $60.
Quote from: S&S RR on September 25, 2016, 09:55:01 AM
Quote from: EricQuebec on September 25, 2016, 09:34:32 AM
Hi John,
Thank you for this very usefull tips about casting. What about odour with the SMooth on product ??? ?
Eric Quebec city
Hi Eric
I didn't smell anything with either the mold materials or the plastic resign - I do have a vent fan in my paint booth and run it when I'm using these materials - just in case.
The materials are not cheap - the mold materials and resign for the wall castings for my Locomotive Works project were about $60.
Thank John.
Here in Quebec, I can have a deal (15% off on smooth on product)if I buy the stock at the Co-op of University.
Eric Québec city
Quote from: EricQuebec on September 25, 2016, 10:16:00 AM
Quote from: S&S RR on September 25, 2016, 09:55:01 AM
Quote from: EricQuebec on September 25, 2016, 09:34:32 AM
Hi John,
Thank you for this very usefull tips about casting. What about odour with the SMooth on product ??? ?
Eric Quebec city
Hi Eric
I didn't smell anything with either the mold materials or the plastic resign - I do have a vent fan in my paint booth and run it when I'm using these materials - just in case.
The materials are not cheap - the mold materials and resign for the wall castings for my Locomotive Works project were about $60.
Thank John.
Here in Quebec, I can have a deal (15% off on smooth on product)if I buy the stock at the Co-op of University.
Eric Québec city
That is a good help - be careful of shelf life. You want to buy this stuff just before you need to use it.
So today was get the shop back in order and organized day. I had everything spread all over the place from four different projects. My main workbench is now dedicated to the Jacob's Coal FSM kit build. I'm currently in the process of assembling the coal bins.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250916200001.jpeg)
My roll away work bench is now dedicated to the C. C. Crow Stone Church build - which is my Challenge build. I'm just getting started on this one. Currently have a number of test castings in the paint booth with the primer drying.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250916195929.jpeg)
On my third workbench I'm starting the two remaining trestle builds to complete the Narrow Gauge Line on the layout. Today, I got a good start on cutting the strip wood and found the gluing template for the trestle bents. I plan to build these two trestles right on my workbench on a base which will fit in place on the layout. If everything goes according to plan this should make these trestles much easier to build than my last trestle build project.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250916195903.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-250916195903.jpeg)
Today, I also completed my Trains of Texas wall casting project. I have the molds I need and enough hydrocal and resin castings for my next couple of projects with these great castings. In addition to the castings, I created a filing system for all the molds I'm accumulating and stored all the boxes under the layout. It sure is nice to have a clean shop to get started with tomorrow morning. ;)
I spent the day working on the track work today. Which included some time making final decisions on some future structure placements. On the left side of this scene I will be placing 4 FSM kits which are left over from my previous layout. I actually never finished the Sand House kit. I was working on it when I made the decision to completely remove my old layout and start fresh.
On the right side of the scene I have plans for 2 or possibly 3 Sierra West kits.
I needed to make these final decisions before I placed the main line and sidings. By studying the pictures I think you can see the process I go through to visualize the scene and make the placement decisions. I find the templates and instructions along with build pictures very helpful in making these placement decisions. In many cases I will also be looking at some kit bashing to make a particular kit work on my layout. Don't let the orientation of the FSM kits bother you. I have some rock casting removal work, along with some benchwork modifications, to do tomorrow before I lay the main line. The rock castings in this area need to be detailed, trees and bushes need to be added, and rock talus needs to be added to make this scene complete.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-260916191934.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-260916191837.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-260916192006.jpeg)
John, I really like the saw mill dio, I will have to be building one probably after the first of the year. I am still debating on a kit or scratchbuild.
Quote from: ak-milw on September 26, 2016, 08:19:30 PM
John, I really like the saw mill dio, I will have to be building one probably after the first of the year. I am still debating on a kit or scratchbuild.
Andy
If you can swing the $$ the kit with all the detail castings is the way to go with this one. The structures can be scratch built but like any FSM kit the details is what really make the difference. This dio is Kit 170, 160, 180, and 125 all combined. I need to do some refreshing of the scenery etc before they are mounted on the layout but the kit itself has really withstood the test of time.
Thanks John, maybe I'll start saving for it.
Here is a picture of the area after the excavation crew finished their work on the mountain. I will post some pictures with the structures I have completed and a track plan sketch later today.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-290916125750.jpeg)
The 1x6 is the base for the HOn3 wood trestle. There will be a slight slope up to the track level and structures.
Here is another picture of the bench work opening before I started to add the structures.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-290916175305.jpeg)
Looking good, John.
Just thought I should post to let you know I am always following along on your layout build - even if I don't post.
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: mark dalrymple on September 29, 2016, 06:05:44 PM
Looking good, John.
Just thought I should post to let you know I am always following along on your layout build - even if I don't post.
Cheers, Mark.
Hi Mark
Thanks for stopping by the thread and for posting. It's good to know that people are finding the thread worth their time. It takes some time away from working on the layout to take and post the pictures and it's good to know it's time well spent.
So at this point it's time to start placing the structures and making sure that my track plan in this area will work. The plan is to have a passing siding in this area with sidings to service the saw mill, the sand house, the locomotive service facility (a Sierra West Kit), the donkey repair kit (another Sierra West Kit), and a final TBD structure which will be in the back behind the locomotive service shop. One options I'm considering for this location is the Cartwright Machine shop (a FSM kit).
Here are a couple of pictures of Sierra West kits planned for the foreground in this scene (the pictures are from the Sierra West website). The white template laying on the benchwork is the plan view layout template from Brett's kit. These templates are great for structure placement on a layout. Brett if you read this your templates are great. ;)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-290916175711.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-290916175711.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-290916175810.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-290916175810.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-290916192241.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-290916192241.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-290916192338.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-290916192338.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-290916192419.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-290916192419.jpeg)
This is going to be a great spot for these super detailed kits because they will be displayed at eye level for the viewer with the mountains in the background.
The two tunnels in the mountain will have wood portals and a rock slide shed to protect the trains. The tunnel on the right will be the mainline and the tunnel on left will be filled and not used.
Here are a couple of pictures with the saw mill and sand house in place to start to give you a feel for how the scene will look.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-290916175429.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-290916175544.jpeg)
The wood trestle for the HOn3 line will be in the background in this scene and add to the depth.
Quote from: mark dalrymple on September 29, 2016, 06:05:44 PM
Looking good, John.
Just thought I should post to let you know I am always following along on your layout build - even if I don't post.
Cheers, Mark.
Count me in on this statement. I have been following your thread for all 147 pages. Even if I don't say much, I really enjoy seeing your layout and all the work you do.
Jim
Quote from: jimmillho on September 29, 2016, 07:34:33 PM
Quote from: mark dalrymple on September 29, 2016, 06:05:44 PM
Looking good, John.
Just thought I should post to let you know I am always following along on your layout build - even if I don't post.
Cheers, Mark.
Count me in on this statement. I have been following your thread for all 147 pages. Even if I don't say much, I really enjoy seeing your layout and all the work you do.
Jim
Jim
Thanks for the kind words and for following along on my layout build journey.
One more project to report on tonight. I finished cutting the boards for the hidden yard that will be under the mountain in this area.
I will be adding the track and turnouts on top of the bench and then installing it in two pieces under the layout. Much easier than doing all the work under the layout.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-290916175344.jpeg)
The hidden yard will be about 12 feet long and have at least 5 tracks. It is possible to add more tracks but I'm starting with 5.
Just awesome. ALways a great pleasure to follow this thread
Eric Québec city
Quote from: EricQuebec on September 29, 2016, 08:23:01 PM
Just awesome. ALways a great pleasure to follow this thread
Eric Québec city
Eric
Thanks for following the thread and for the kind words.
I got started on the hidden yard today. I'm trying to use components I already have and maximize the storage space. I didn't have much layout time between mowing the lawn and working for EXPO dollars, but I got started.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-031016193657.jpeg)
I continued the construction of my hidden yard, today. I will be installing all the track and wiring, including the snap controllers for the turnouts while it is on my workbench. In the second picture, you can see how I had to clear out for the screws so I can take it apart and get it under the layout for final construction and installation.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-051016195148.jpeg)
Here is the picture of the screws. The hammer in this picture is one of my Dad's tools - it has been around longer than I have - and it works great for detecting and setting the nails from the air nailer that didn't get set deep enough in to the cork roadbed. My Dad owned a body shop a few years before I was born and this metal finishing hammer was used to bump out sheet metal with and anvil behind the panel.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-051016194750.jpeg)
Today, I finished the cork roadbed and track work for the hidden yard. Tomorrow I will finish the wiring and add the turnout controls before tearing it down and installing it under the mountain.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-061016191947.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-061016192033.jpeg)
In it's present configuration the yard will hold 5 full trains. There is enough room under there to add on in the future if I decide I need more storage.
I finished what I could do on the top of the bench on the hidden yard today. Added the drop wires and wired and installed the Peco Snap controllers for the turnouts. I'm only using the snap controllers where things are not going to be seen. I also used up a lot of miss matched flex track I had from my previous layout on this hidden yard build. It is amazing how many different sizes of ties you can find on flex track.
After I completed adding the drop wires - it was time to break the yard into two pieces so I could fit it under the layout and make it easier to flip upside down to install the turnout controllers.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-071016205034.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-071016205106.jpeg)
Once I had the screws out I just slipped the two sections apart.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-071016205136.jpeg)
I flipped the section with the turnouts upside down to install the snap controllers.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-071016204932.jpeg)
All of the wiring for the turnouts is wired into a terminal block so I can connect the wires from the control panel and we will be good to go.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-071016205003.jpeg)
Final step for today was to fit the sections down through the hatch so they are ready for installation, tomorrow.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-071016205208.jpeg)
Looking good John. Have fun with it. :)
Stay cool and run steam...... 8) 8)
Quote from: Powersteamguy1790 on October 07, 2016, 09:22:51 PM
Looking good John. Have fun with it. :)
Stay cool and run steam...... 8) 8)
Bob
Thanks for stopping by the thread - I do have a lot of fun with this! ;D
Today, I started the installation of the hidden yard inside the mountain. I also finished the layout of the track work for the visible portion of this scene.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-081016193857.jpeg)
In the scene pictured above, the final locations for the sawmill and sandhouse where determined so I can add the benchwork for the mainline and a passing siding. I will also install the turnouts for the sidings and lay the track up to the point where I get to the edge of the base board for the structures I have to build yet. In the foreground on the right side will be SWSM Loco & Service Shops and on the other side of the mainline will be Cartwright's Machine Shop an FSM kit.
Here is a picture from the instructions that I used to visualize the location for the structure. A creek will run from the waterfall behind the HOn3 trestle behind the saw mill and into the pond the will power the water wheel for Cartwright's.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-081016193928.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-081016193928.jpeg)
Once I had all the locations fixed I started cutting paper templates to cut plywood bench work pieces to fill in the holes. Some of these pieces will support the track, and others will be the base boards for future kit builds.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-081016194014.jpeg)
This first piece will support the passing siding along with the sidings to Cartwright's and the saw mill.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-081016194051.jpeg)
I completed the base board for Cartwright's but will wait to install it when the levels for the creek and track trestle have been established. For now the siding will run up to the baseboard. The elevation change here will really help this scene. There will also be an elevation change behind the sawmill down to the creek level.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-081016194143.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-081016194143.jpeg)
As always, I recored the plan in my log book so I could remember what I had decided when I get around to the new structure builds. In the mean time the upper main line can be installed - I need to get the trains running. ;)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-081016193732.jpeg)
That scene looks great John..... :)
Stay cool and run steam....... 8) 8)
Quote from: Powersteamguy1790 on October 08, 2016, 09:19:35 PM
That scene looks great John..... :)
Stay cool and run steam....... 8) 8)
Bob
Thank you
John. I really love the look of that whole scene. It will even be better with the addition of the other buildings.
Quote from: ak-milw on October 08, 2016, 11:35:40 PM
John. I really love the look of that whole scene. It will even be better with the addition of the other buildings.
Andy
Thanks for the kind words - I have the trestle started, then I will add the trees and scenery. The builds for this area are a few months off yet.
I fitted a few more base boards today - getting real close to putting down the mainline in this area.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-091016214955.jpeg)
I moved a box under the layout this afternoon and found three tools (a square, a hammer, and a pair of track cutters) that have been lost for years. ;D The box was full of old Model Railroader Magazines. I think it's time to get rid of some of the old magazines - I have most of them digital now anyway.
Tonight, I returned from a fishing trip. It's amazing how much design work you can do in your head while your fishing. Especially when the fish don't bother you. I will be getting back to work on the track tomorrow, along with the three builds I have on my workbenches.
I spent most of my work time today on the C. C. Crow Challenge Build. Tomorrow, is going to be concentrate on track work day. I need to stay on schedule to get the trains running by Christmas. It's going to be close.
I'm getting into the final steps on the C. C. Crow Church build and thought I would post a progress picture on my layout build thread. See the kit build threads if you want to see the detail steps to this build.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-171016193048.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-171016193048.jpeg)
Starting to add the windows. Once their in it will be time for the roof and the final touches.
I also laid out all of the track work for the mountain top scene. I have all the switches and sidings figured out and tomorrow I will start installing it.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-171016195146.jpeg)
Nice work on the church build and new track work on the layout John. :) 8)
Stay cool and run steam........ 8) 8)
Quote from: Powersteamguy1790 on October 17, 2016, 09:19:53 PM
Nice work on the church build and new track work on the layout John. :) 8)
Stay cool and run steam........ 8) 8)
Bob
Thanks for stopping by the thread and for the kind words. I'm working through a period on the layout build where there is a lot of work going on but not much to take pictures of - all required to get the trains running.
Track work in the mountains is hard work - even on a model railroad. I spent most of the day cutting out benchwork to make way for the switch machines. Slow progress.
Quote from: S&S RR on October 18, 2016, 10:56:30 PM
Track work in the mountains is hard work - even on a model railroad. I spent most of the day cutting out benchwork to make way for the switch machines. Slow progress.
John,
No wonder, those are some serious mountains! I guess you have some guys working the jack hammers as well. ;D ;D
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on October 19, 2016, 06:39:38 AM
Quote from: S&S RR on October 18, 2016, 10:56:30 PM
Track work in the mountains is hard work - even on a model railroad. I spent most of the day cutting out benchwork to make way for the switch machines. Slow progress.
John,
No wonder, those are some serious mountains! I guess you have some guys working the jack hammers as well. ;D ;D
Tom ;D
Tom
Yeah, I sure do. It's hard to find guys that can work with an HO scale jack hammer.
Tonight a quick update on the status of the Superior & Seattle Railroad. I have been working hard to finish my C. C. Crow build for the Challenge - with any luck I will finish it to the point where I can put it on the shelf until the scenery is finished in the area where I will place it. Many of the details will wait until I make a final decision on placement.
My Jacob's coal build has been at a stand still and I will be getting back to it next week.
I have been cutting strip wood for the two trestle builds and should get the wood into the A&I bath later this week.
I'm also working on laying track for the lumber mill mountain scene and will be concentrating the biggest share of my time to it for the next few months. I have quite a bit of work to do inside the mountain to finish the connecting loops for continuous train operations.
I also worked on my casting cleanup from the Trains of Texas casting project from a few weeks ago. I need to clean up the master casting so I can send a package back to Tommy. Getting the latex out of the details of the casting from the bad cast problem I had with the final mold material (see description a few pages back) is proving to be very labor intensive. Here is a picture of the casting and the progress I have made cleaning it. I'm using a probe to clean the mold material out of the features of the bricks. The blue in the cracks still needs to be removed. I don't thick I can get the blue staining of the casting without damaging it. I want to make sure it can be used to make new molds if they are required in the future.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-231016185000.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-231016185000.jpeg)
I have finished the C.C. Crow Stone Church build. Mine is called Saint Elenor's Church after Wayne Olson's wife Elenor who earned her Sainthood putting up with Wayne all these years. Here are a few pictures, the finishing touches and details will be added when it goes on the layout.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-241016211314.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-241016211238.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-241016211212.jpeg)
Fantastic! Nicely done John.
John
Great looking church John.
Jim
Great job on the church John, looks perfect.
The church building looks fantastic John. Nice job :) ; 8)
Stay cool and run steam....... 8) 8)
Quote from: Cuse on October 25, 2016, 10:04:31 AM
Fantastic! Nicely done John.
John
Thanks John - I want to wait until I have it in place and put the final dirt in place before I finish coloring the steps.
Quote from: jimmillho on October 25, 2016, 01:35:07 PM
Great looking church John.
Jim
Jim
Thanks for the kind words. I think this is going to look pretty good up on the mountain with some of Slims LED lights inside to show off the stained glass windows.
Quote from: ak-milw on October 25, 2016, 06:47:26 PM
Great job on the church John, looks perfect.
Andy
Thanks for the kind words. I think it will look better with the mountains and some fall color aspen trees for a backdrop.
Quote from: Powersteamguy1790 on October 25, 2016, 09:20:07 PM
The church building looks fantastic John. Nice job :) ; 8)
Stay cool and run steam....... 8) 8)
Bob
Thanks for the kind words.
John,
Nice work on that plaster kit ! Will be a great addition to the S&S RR. ! The coloring came out really nice too !
Update : Could not watch the entire Cubs game and came across the other extra Train of Texas plaster wall tonight.
Tommy
Quote from: tom.boyd.125 on October 26, 2016, 01:40:40 AM
John,
Nice work on that plaster kit ! Will be a great addition to the S&S RR. ! The coloring came out really nice too !
Update : Could not watch the entire Cubs game and came across the other extra Train of Texas plaster wall tonight.
Tommy
Tommy
Thanks for the kind words and good news about the T of T casting. Is it the same wall or a different pattern?
I was in full track laying mode today. As I was adding some holes to a piece of track with my dremel I thought I would show you a picture of my dremel stand that works all around the layout. I started doing this when I was building the big trestle. Remember all those holes for the bolt castings. ::) So anyway I hook my dremel to the valence for my lights with a paint can hook. It works great and since I have lights all around the layout - it works just about everywhere on the layout.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-261016175156.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-261016175114.jpeg)
Hi John,
Your church turned out very nice. And I like you idea of placing it in the mountains with the aspen trees.
Quote from: sdrees on October 26, 2016, 06:08:37 PM
Hi John,
Your church turned out very nice. And I like you idea of placing it in the mountains with the aspen trees.
Thanks Steve
The LED light you see in the picture above is designed to light up the area where it will be. As soon as I get all this track work done it will be time to finish the scenery in the upper elevations.
That Dremel stand reminds me of an IV stand :-)
dave
Quote from: deemery on October 26, 2016, 07:30:41 PM
That Dremel stand reminds me of an IV stand :-)
dave
Totally unintentional! :-[ :-[ :-[
Quote from: S&S RR on October 26, 2016, 07:33:12 PM
Quote from: deemery on October 26, 2016, 07:30:41 PM
That Dremel stand reminds me of an IV stand :-)
dave
Totally unintentional! :-[ :-[ :-[
Actually, that might be a good way to use an old IV stand.
dave
Quote from: deemery on October 26, 2016, 07:47:56 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on October 26, 2016, 07:33:12 PM
Quote from: deemery on October 26, 2016, 07:30:41 PM
That Dremel stand reminds me of an IV stand :-)
dave
Totally unintentional! :-[ :-[ :-[
Actually, that might be a good way to use an old IV stand.
dave
Actually it would. We need to see if Dr. Jeff can get us some IV stands.
John the church build finished up very nice, cant wait to see it on the layout.
Quote from: Twopoint2 on October 26, 2016, 08:08:14 PM
John the church build finished up very nice, cant wait to see it on the layout.
Jim
Thanks for the kind words. I will post pictures as soon as it goes up there.
Church looks great, John - and those steps look perfectly in scale!
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: mark dalrymple on October 27, 2016, 06:05:58 PM
Church looks great, John - and those steps look perfectly in scale!
Cheers, Mark.
Mark
Thank you for the kind words and the good eye that saw that the steps were out of scale as soon as the castings were out of the box. I'm sure glad I took the time to fix them. I'm on to my Jacob's Coal build tonight. It has been sitting on my workbench for a few weeks while I completed the challenge build.
I spent most of my train time this week working on the upper level track work. Not a lot to take pictures of but work that needs to be done.
I returned to working on the layout today after a trip to California for my daughter's wedding. The wedding was wonderful, we all had a great time. It sure was nice having the whole family together. I managed to get a few prototype photographs while walking on the beach with my Grandsons and during a hike in the Redwoods.
I started the design for my S&S RR Locomotive works yesterday. I'm using a CAD package on my MacBook Pro called TurboCad. I'm learning how to use the software package at the same time that I'm doing the design work so it's going a little slow. So far, I'm really happy with software and the direction the design is taking. I will post some screen dump pictures when I get to the point where I have something to show.
An interesting landmark was reached on this thread last week - 250,000 views. I think that's amazing in the couple of years this forum has been up and running.
JS,
What medium did you use to count the views/votes? I hope not the liberal media, it's been proven to be schmaltzy. ha. Congratulations to you on your thread sir... T...
Quote from: S&S RR on November 13, 2016, 09:34:44 AM
An interesting landmark was reached on this thread last week - 250,000 views. I think that's amazing in the couple of years this forum has been up and running.
Some would say you need a life.....others would say you're an overachiever. ;D ;D ;D
Or are you just having a great time? ;)
Quote from: tct855 on November 13, 2016, 10:09:06 AM
JS,
What medium did you use to count the views/votes? I hope not the liberal media, it's been proven to be schmaltzy. ha. Congratulations to you on your thread sir... T...
The data (fun fact) is from the view counter that's part of the forum package. I think a view is someone clicking on the thread.
Quote from: GPdemayo on November 13, 2016, 10:44:26 AM
Quote from: S&S RR on November 13, 2016, 09:34:44 AM
An interesting landmark was reached on this thread last week - 250,000 views. I think that's amazing in the couple of years this forum has been up and running.
Some would say you need a life.....others would say you're an overachiever. ;D ;D ;D
Or are you just having a great time? ;)
Truth is, I'm having a great time. It's amazing how much more satisfying building a play railroad is than working 12 hours a day 6 days a week. As for the thread, it takes about 15 minutes of my time a week to keep it going. I want to finish my layout so I limit my computer time to 30-60 minutes a day.
As to what other say - if you enjoy the thread - thanks for stopping by to see what I'm up too. If you think I need a life - I hope you find yours. ;)
Quote from: S&S RR on November 13, 2016, 11:27:44 AM
Quote from: GPdemayo on November 13, 2016, 10:44:26 AM
Quote from: S&S RR on November 13, 2016, 09:34:44 AM
An interesting landmark was reached on this thread last week - 250,000 views. I think that's amazing in the couple of years this forum has been up and running.
Some would say you need a life.....others would say you're an overachiever. ;D ;D ;D
Or are you just having a great time? ;)
Truth is, I'm having a great time. It's amazing how much more satisfying building a play railroad is than working 12 hours a day 6 days a week. As for the thread, it takes about 15 minutes of my time a week to keep it going. I want to finish my layout so I limit my computer time to 30-60 minutes a day.
As to what other say - if you enjoy the thread - thanks for stopping by to see what I'm up too. If you think I need a life - I hope you find yours. ;)
I agree.....I think all of us really do enjoy what we do in the hobby, otherwise it would be too much like work. For me, that means spending an inordinate amount of time marketing and getting the work completed. Which, in a nutshell doesn't leave me much time for modeling and less time for a life.
I am amazed at the dedication and time it is taking you to do your thread of George's layout and know the valuable reference it represents to many out there. 8)
By keeping trace of all the goings on on this forum, it gives me hope that I will also have time in the future to get back to my projects and add a bit to the great wealth of ideas here.
Keep up the wonderful work you are doing and happy fishing at S&S RR North. :)
Quote from: GPdemayo on November 14, 2016, 03:36:36 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on November 13, 2016, 11:27:44 AM
Quote from: GPdemayo on November 13, 2016, 10:44:26 AM
Quote from: S&S RR on November 13, 2016, 09:34:44 AM
An interesting landmark was reached on this thread last week - 250,000 views. I think that's amazing in the couple of years this forum has been up and running.
Some would say you need a life.....others would say you're an overachiever. ;D ;D ;D
Or are you just having a great time? ;)
Truth is, I'm having a great time. It's amazing how much more satisfying building a play railroad is than working 12 hours a day 6 days a week. As for the thread, it takes about 15 minutes of my time a week to keep it going. I want to finish my layout so I limit my computer time to 30-60 minutes a day.
As to what other say - if you enjoy the thread - thanks for stopping by to see what I'm up too. If you think I need a life - I hope you find yours. ;)
I agree.....I think all of us really do enjoy what we do in the hobby, otherwise it would be too much like work. For me, that means spending an inordinate amount of time marketing and getting the work completed. Which, in a nutshell doesn't leave me much time for modeling and less time for a life.
I am amazed at the dedication and time it is taking you to do your thread of George's layout and know the valuable reference it represents to many out there. 8)
By keeping trace of all the goings on on this forum, it gives me hope that I will also have time in the future to get back to my projects and add a bit to the great wealth of ideas here.
Keep up the wonderful work you are doing and happy fishing at S&S RR North. :)
It is amazing how easy it is to many spend hours on this hobby. Since I retired, I spend as much of my time as possible doing what I enjoy - a 12 hour day just flies by when I'm working on the layout. When I'm fishing I'm designing the next build in my head. And the other nice thing about retirement is you don't care who thinks your crazy. ;) ;D The work I'm doing posting the pictures of the F&SM is very inspirational and it forces me to really study what George has done.
I have spent a few hours doing some design work for an upcoming project which will be called the S&S RR Locomotive Works. The structure will be detailed both inside and out and will be scratch built. I was doing some work in the CAD package called TurboCad and thought I would try a screen dump so I could show where I was going with this project.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-161116193633.jpeg)
By the time the drawing is resized for the forum it gets hard to read. I will try doing some zoom in pictures when I get more of the details drawn.
I have returned from my fishing/hunting trip with lots of new design ideas - it's time to get back at working on the railroad.
we have been waiting!
Quote from: ak-milw on November 18, 2016, 06:59:14 PM
we have been waiting!
Sorry to keep your waiting Andy. ;)
No problem John, it's worth the wait.
A daughter being married followed by hunting and fishing does take a little bit of time.
So, John, seems like the vacation is over. 8) 8) 8)
Tom ;D ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on November 19, 2016, 07:03:28 AM
A daughter being married followed by hunting and fishing does take a little bit of time.
So, John, seems like the vacation is over. 8) 8) 8)
Tom ;D ;D
Tom
I had a great time with both events, but it's nice to have a hobby that I look forward to getting back at. I've been told that if you are doing retirement correctly you don't have vacations anymore you just take trips.
Quote from: S&S RR on November 19, 2016, 10:08:05 AM
Quote from: ACL1504 on November 19, 2016, 07:03:28 AM
A daughter being married followed by hunting and fishing does take a little bit of time.
So, John, seems like the vacation is over. 8) 8) 8)
Tom ;D ;D
I had a great time with both events, but it's nice to have a hobby that I look forward to getting back at. I've been told that if you are doing retirement correctly you don't have vacations anymore you just take trips.
You are 100% correct as I haven't been on vacation since retirement. I have been on several trips and goo ones at that.
Tom ;D
It has been awhile since I updated what I'm currently working on for the S&S Railroad. I have four projects going; the first is the ever constant track work, the second is a build of the FSM Kit Jacob's Coal (it will be renamed Isaac's Coal after my new Grandson), third is the Narrow Gauge Trestle for Mount Kara, and the forth currently in design is a scratch built S&S Railroad Locomotive Works.
Here is a picture of the current state of the track work - working on the track mainline and sidings for Mount Kara.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-191116170401.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-191116170401.jpeg)
The narrow gauge trestle will be almost centered in this photograph.
Jacob's coal - I'm starting the assembly of the coal bins - I will need 5 or 6 because I'm building it as double the size of the original kit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-191116170325.jpeg)
The trestle build is just getting started. I have cut the strip wood, and found the jig I made for gluing the bents. In this picture you see the base board for the trestle - this one will be built on the workbench.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-191116170456.jpeg)
Lots going on John, I new it was worth the wait.
Quote from: ak-milw on November 19, 2016, 06:36:42 PM
Lots going on John, I new it was worth the wait.
Thanks for stopping by the thread Andy. I will get more interesting as these projects move along. I spent a good part of the day trying to find my tools. :-[
Today, I spent most of the day working on the two trestles that I need to complete the track work. I spent most of the time cutting the strip wood that I need to make the bents. By the end of the day I had about 60 % of what I need. Tomorrow is another day.
Here is a picture of the base board for the first trestle with the cement piers glued in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-201116192943.jpeg)
Laying out the bent footings.
Time to commit to the locations, glue and weights required.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-201116193012.jpeg)
Here is the baseboard for the second trestle - this one is straight.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-201116193054.jpeg)
Just a quick reminder - both of these trestles are for the HOn3 line and will use smaller lumber sizes than the main line HO trestles.
Hey John that is really coming along nicely. Guess I need to go back to the beginning and read through the whole thread.
Jerry
Quote from: Jerry on November 20, 2016, 09:39:32 PM
Hey John that is really coming along nicely. Guess I need to go back to the beginning and read through the whole thread.
Jerry
Hi Jerry
Thanks for stopping by the thread. There is starting to be a lot of history here. I need to update the index one of these days.
John I got through the first ten pages. I had to stop and catch my breath at the roundhouse that is of hell of a job. Excellent stone castings and the way you put it together.
Jerry
Ps 10 pages later!
Quote from: Jerry on November 22, 2016, 09:26:45 AM
John I got through the first ten pages. I had to stop and catch my breath at the roundhouse that is of hell of a job. Excellent stone castings and the way you put it together.
Jerry
Ps 10 pages later!
Jerry
Thanks for the kind words. I'm real excited about the build of the companion structure to the roundhouse - "The S&S RR Locomotive Works". It will be scratch built with lots of detail. I'm working on the design right now - when I run out of gas and need a sit down job. ;)
I need to finish the four projects I have on the workbench now and then it will be time to get started on Locomotive Works. It will be a big project for this winter.
Thanks again for stopping by the thread.
The strip wood for the two HOn3 Trestles is all cut and stained. Let the building begin.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-221116100421.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-221116100421.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-221116100511.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-221116100511.jpeg)
That was a lot of cutting.
I also started cutting some of the strip wood for my next scratch build project while I had the saw set up (not shown in the pictures).
John what kind of stain did you use on the wood? The old A&I ??
Jerry
Wow! That's a lot of stripwood John! The stain/paint job really looks great.
Quote from: Jerry on November 22, 2016, 08:50:37 PM
John what kind of stain did you use on the wood? The old A&I ??
Jerry
Hi Jerry
Yes, it is the old standby A&I - 4 TSP Black and 2 TSP Brown in a quart of 91% alcohol. It's a stain not a wash but I like the color for trestles.
Quote from: MAP on November 23, 2016, 06:14:50 AM
Wow! That's a lot of stripwood John! The stain/paint job really looks great.
Mark
Thanks for the kind words - I cut the 2x8's for the rafters on my next build at the same time so only about half the run was in the picture. Thanks for stopping by the thread.
Oh boy, more trestle builds. I can't wait to see those pieces of strip wood come together for another beautiful trestle.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on November 23, 2016, 07:05:17 PM
Oh boy, more trestle builds. I can't wait to see those pieces of strip wood come together for another beautiful trestle.
Tom ;D
Tom
These are little guys compared to the monster. Thanks for stopping by the thread.
Speaking of the monster trestle, I made a test bent for the new trestles using the gluing jig that I made for my large trestle. It is going to work just fine. ;D I sure have made a lot of trestle bents with this fixture. I need 16 more for these two trestles.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-231116202234.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-231116202234.jpeg)
I also added the primer to the base boards and cement piers for the trestles. Shown here, in my paint booth.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-231116202327.jpeg)
I'm making some changes to the grade on my track work project. I had an area that did not make specifications with grade so some new benchwork and plaster work will be required. This work is sure a lot easier with a laser level and a digital clinometer.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-241116094645.jpeg)
I have a question for the forum? I will double post this in the baggage car to make sure everyone sees it. I'm in the middle of the design work for my S&S RR Locomotive Works which will include a machine shop with a overhead belt drive. I have hundreds of pictures of the belt drive system and the castings for the steam engine that drives it. My question is how is the boiler typically housed and the steam run to the steam engine that drives it. I'm looking for pictures of "boiler houses" with details of the mechanics. Can anyone help?
I wonder if the East Broadtop RR historical society has any information. Several years ago we had a tour of their machine shop. It remains the same as the day when the railroad closed and the workers left, including tools on the benches when the workers left. There was an extensive steam powered belt system. Jim
Quote from: jrmueller on November 25, 2016, 10:25:43 AM
I wonder if the East Broadtop RR historical society has any information. Several years ago we had a tour of their machine shop. It remains the same as the day when the railroad closed and the workers left, including tools on the benches when the workers left. There was an extensive steam powered belt system. Jim
Jim
Thanks for the input, I will check it out.
This book is great! It's done by the former owner of Western Scale Models: http://www.montageww.com/thesierrarailroadmachineshop.aspx
I'm not sure if the new owner of WSM got the rights to the books.
dave
Quote from: deemery on November 25, 2016, 01:22:31 PM
This book is great! It's done by the former owner of Western Scale Models: http://www.montageww.com/thesierrarailroadmachineshop.aspx (http://www.montageww.com/thesierrarailroadmachineshop.aspx)
I'm not sure if the new owner of WSM got the rights to the books.
dave
Dave
Thanks again for the input - I would love to get my hands on a copy of the Sierra machine shop book. I have all of the machine tools that the new owner has made available in HO scale. Your post prompted me to take a look at the website. I didn't see any mention of the books. I have been picking up anything new that he makes available at the Narrow Gauge Conventions. I need to keep an eye on his website.
Yesterday, Wayne Olson spent the day with me and it turned into a track work day. I continued laying track and Wayne started the painting process. We have a few hundred aspen trees and about a 100 pine trees all ready to plant on the layout but we decided to get the track work done before we started planting. I will have a day or two of plaster work to do in the area where I had to change the grade of the track. I'm really looking forward to getting the trains running again.
I made some progress today on my Jacob's coal build. The coal bins have been assembled and I can start getting an idea of how big I want to make the complex for the space I have on the layout. I have two kits so I'm making the complex double size or maybe a little smaller than double. After a number of different scenarios I'm leaning towards having a 5 bin design. I have a few days before I have to make a final decision so I'll leave the mockup on my workbench while I finish the frame work for the coal bins.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-271116190119.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-271116190119.jpeg)
The differences in look on the coal bins is me playing with the color by lighting it with a pure alcohol wash. I love the way you can change things and then just match it by adding more chalk or washing it with alcohol. I really like this technique. I also did a little sanding to get a perfect fit which can also be easily fixed when I do the final coloring.
I also started putting the track down in the area I needed to repair. I needed to change the grade to meet my grade specifications. I will have to do some retaining wall and fill work which will really add to the realism of a mountain railroad in this area.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-271116190207.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-271116190207.jpeg)
Over the weekend, I received my order with supplies from Barrett Hill Trains for the turnout control panels. I saw these for the first time a few years ago at the Narrow Gauge Convention. I will post pictures as I get into the project. These are touch control switches with LED indicator lights to show which direction the turnouts are set too. If this first section goes well I plan on using them for the whole layout.
Nice progress John.....looking forward to seeing the touch control switch installation.
I've seen them advertised and they look like an interesting alternative to toggle switches.
Wouw looking great
Quote from: GPdemayo on November 29, 2016, 08:57:00 AM
Nice progress John.....looking forward to seeing the touch control switch installation.
I've seen them advertised and they look like an interesting alternative to toggle switches.
Greg
Thanks for stopping by the thread. I really liked the way they looked and worked when I saw them at the Narrow Gauge Convention a few years ago. If this experimental installation goes well I will be doing the whole layout with them. I will post progress reports when I get to the installation. So many projects. ;)
Quote from: ger deguelle on November 30, 2016, 02:25:11 AM
Wouw looking great
Thank you for the kind words and for stopping by the thread.
Quote from: GPdemayo on November 29, 2016, 08:57:00 AM
Nice progress John.....looking forward to seeing the touch control switch installation.
I've seen them advertised and they look like an interesting alternative to toggle switches.
I will be watching also to see how these switches work.
Jim
Quote from: jimmillho on November 30, 2016, 08:35:18 PM
Quote from: GPdemayo on November 29, 2016, 08:57:00 AM
Nice progress John.....looking forward to seeing the touch control switch installation.
I've seen them advertised and they look like an interesting alternative to toggle switches.
I will be watching also to see how these switches work.
Jim
Jim
I will give them a full review - it will be a few weeks before I get to that project. I want to stay focussed on completing the track work and getting the trains running again. I have one component for the system that was backordered which is expected in a couple weeks. Thanks for stopping by the thread.
It's time for an update on the two Trestles that I'm building on my workbench. So far I have four bents in various stages of assembly. The first completed trestle bent has been glued in place on the baseboard.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-011216154626.jpeg)
On the track laying project I'm rounding the corner to the area where all of the different track levels come to reversing loops. When I originally put in this area I knew it was all temporary until I finished the rest of the track work for the layout. The rock wall was a view block so I could use the benchwork inside the loops for storage. As you can see from the backdrops I have plans to build a large town "on a hill" in this area. Can anyone guess where that idea came from.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-011216154722.jpeg)
Oh goodie, here we go. Looking good my friend.
Tom ;D
So here goes the explanation of the plan. After removing the rock wall this is what the area looks like.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-011216154839.jpeg)
The area in the picture is 60 inches deep and 68 inches wide (wall to the tall mountain on the right). Inside that tall mountain is the metal supports that hold up my house (that's why the mountain goes all the way to the ceiling). The ovalix will occupy the length of this area plus about 12 inches inside the mountain on the right.
You will also see in the picture three different levels of track. The upper level is the HOn3 line. So in a few words the Narrow Gauge will work it's way down to the upper HO level and then become one large ovalix until it reaches the lower main level. All this will happen underneath a large city which will start on a shelf halfway up the backdrop and continue down to the lower level of track. I will be constructing the city by placing the roads and then building structures that fit the various building spots. Over the next few weeks I will be completing drawings that I can work to for the track work and roads. The track work will be operational in the next few weeks and the city will become a future build.
Awesome. Can't wait to watch this progress. The rocks (as always) are magnificent...Only layout I've seen that probably requires a 1:1 Jackhammer to make scenic adjustments ::)
John
Quote from: Cuse on December 01, 2016, 06:28:46 PM
Awesome. Can't wait to watch this progress. The rocks (as always) are magnificent...Only layout I've seen that probably requires a 1:1 Jackhammer to make scenic adjustments ::)
John
Hi John
Thanks for the kind words. A sawzall and shopvac to catch the dust and the rock wall was gone in 5 min. - I will be using the pieces for the modifications I need to make on the other side of the layout so the stonework will be used. One of the pieces actually fits the hole I need to fill.
The next step will be to cut a hole in the big mountain for the ovalix. I will add the benchwork and roadways for the city to make this area look more finished until the time comes to build the structures. I really like making the ground forms first then building structures to fit. I think it makes the whole scene more realistic. I discussed this with George Sellios when we visited and he told me that he designed and developed the town of Franklin that way.
Wow, what a project! Looking forward to seeing the progress photos!
Quote from: rpdylan on December 01, 2016, 10:51:47 PM
Wow, what a project! Looking forward to seeing the progress photos!
Hi Bob
Thanks for stopping by the thread. Yes - it is a huge project but it keeps me out of trouble. I will be posting pictures as things progress.
I'm spending some time in the evenings working on designs for future layout projects. One of the the towns on the S&S RR is going to be the town of Sellios. The main street will be made up of all FSM kits and kit parts (I don't always follow directions well). So I thought I would ask a question of those that follow this thread. What FSM kits "have to be there" on the main street of a town called Sellios?
I hope it is going to be a very BIG town. The list could go on forever.
Quote from: ak-milw on December 04, 2016, 12:11:44 PM
I hope it is going to be a very BIG town. The list could go on forever.
Yes, the list is very long - I think George has produced 71 kits. This town is a mountain town in the 1949 time frame.
There doesn't seem to be a lot of interest on the forum with the design aspect of building a layout. At least by the amount of discussion my question generated. I find it to be one of the things I enjoy the most. For this new area I have decided to make a clay mockup of the area to get a feel for how the track work, the roadways, and the landforms will look. Making a three dimensional model out of clay is a great way for me to visualize it. The clay mockup will help me decide which kits will work in the spaces and if they will need to be modified. I suspect there will be a lot of kit bashing and scratch building done when I get to this new city. The design work is for me is about 5 years ahead of what I'm currently building with the structures, but I have to plan for it with the track work now. So, it's back to work on the layout - I will post a picture from time to time of my progress.
John, don't get discouraged by the lack of feedback to your thread. There are some of us out here who are very interested in the design process, but don't have the time to engage in a discussion on the forum. I barely have enough time keeping current with all the posts as it is.
Layout design and building the structures are my favorite areas of the hobby. I must have 20 or 25 versions of what I would like for a layout, from the bare minimum design to one which has no limits to the amount of space it requires. The space for the reproduction of post WWII St. Louis Union Station is about 18' x 24' and about the same for Grand Central Station in New York.
As to your plan for a town for all the FSM kits, the big challenge I see is the need for so many sidings for all the kits that require them. I would think that might be the biggest problem you will face, especially all those coal companies, which are pretty big space hogs.
Please keep adding the design process into your thread so we can see what you are planning. :)
What he said! As I start to ponder an empty basement, design discussions are increasingly interesting to me.
dave
John,
I've been following but haven't checked your thread in a week or so. As Greg stated don't get discouraged with the lack of response.
Greg can tell you I'm not one for design and planning as he would want me to be. I have ideas in my pea head that never make it to paper.
I have an area on my layout that will be about 2X38 ft and I figure I'll need about 60 to 75 structures for that one area alone. After the 2017 NMRA, I see lots of kit bashing, scratch building and kits in my future.
Let me take a minute or two and give my opinion of interest and posting to threads. You and I are very prolific in our posting and obviously not so with others members. This forum is my quasi face book. The friends I want to know are here.
Now, I've noticed that posting and interest are cyclical in nature. I haven't seen much interest in my Delwin's thread or layout build thread. The regulars post but not many new ones. I put up some pretty good info and about 50 pictures with no comments for weeks. However, I keep going as the threads keep me focused.
I get about 1,000 views for every five posts.
Keep doing what you are doing and the interest will eventually pick up.
Tom ;D
Quote from: GPdemayo on December 06, 2016, 09:25:39 AM
John, don't get discouraged by the lack of feedback to your thread. There are some of us out here who are very interested in the design process, but don't have the time to engage in a discussion on the forum. I barely have enough time keeping current with all the posts as it is.
Layout design and building the structures are my favorite areas of the hobby. I must have 20 or 25 versions of what I would like for a layout, from the bare minimum design to one which has no limits to the amount of space it requires. The space for the reproduction of post WWII St. Louis Union Station is about 18' x 24' and about the same for Grand Central Station in New York.
As to your plan for a town for all the FSM kits, the big challenge I see is the need for so many sidings for all the kits that require them. I would think that might be the biggest problem you will face, especially all those coal companies, which are pretty big space hogs.
Please keep adding the design process into your thread so we can see what you are planning. :)
John,
I agree with Greg. I enjoy reading what you have accomplished an your posts. I do not have the space or the time to build what you have. I used to live in Michigan about 50 years ago and can relate to your adventures with Fishing and the Weather.
Don't get discouraged and keep on designing, building and showing us what you have done.
Jim
Quote from: GPdemayo on December 06, 2016, 09:25:39 AM
John, don't get discouraged by the lack of feedback to your thread. There are some of us out here who are very interested in the design process, but don't have the time to engage in a discussion on the forum. I barely have enough time keeping current with all the posts as it is.
Layout design and building the structures are my favorite areas of the hobby. I must have 20 or 25 versions of what I would like for a layout, from the bare minimum design to one which has no limits to the amount of space it requires. The space for the reproduction of post WWII St. Louis Union Station is about 18' x 24' and about the same for Grand Central Station in New York.
As to your plan for a town for all the FSM kits, the big challenge I see is the need for so many sidings for all the kits that require them. I would think that might be the biggest problem you will face, especially all those coal companies, which are pretty big space hogs.
Please keep adding the design process into your thread so we can see what you are planning. :)
Hi Greg
Thanks for stopping by the thread and sorry if my tone was a little down in my previous post. I had expected a few answers to generate some things I need to think about as I designed these two cities. Like the issue of sidings ;) . One of the operations challenges on a local layout that I operate on is that there are three our four businesses sharing the same siding. You need to move cars out of the way to service the businesses on the end of the siding. I plan on using this same design in the two major cities along with the area I call Eagles Nest Yard. If you design with sidings for each business you end up with a layout that is mostly track and have very little space left for structures. In my case I like structures to much to let that happen.
On the subject of the forum, what I find of most value is quality discussions of the techniques used on structures and design aspects of our layouts. Yes it's a nice way to show what we are up to, but I like it when the decisions lead to a better build. Sometimes I will send a PM or an email to someone when I think they my want to consider doing something different (to keep any negative comments out of the public eye and leave it up to the individual if they want to post it as part of their thread), usually because I learned a lesson the hard way. And I have also received some good advice over the years in this way. ;) That's why I spend all the time I do posting on the forum. It's always a balancing act on how much time to devote to the forum each day. I limit myself to one hour, usually in the evening when I'm to tired to work on the layout anymore.
Quote from: deemery on December 06, 2016, 09:47:16 AM
What he said! As I start to ponder an empty basement, design discussions are increasingly interesting to me.
dave
Dave
Thanks again for following the thread - as I said in my response to Greg I guess I was expecting more of a response but it is what it is. I must have caught everyone during a busy time.
I hope you will start a build thread as you start your new layout. I will follow along and put in my two cents worth. It really only takes a few minutes a day and I can tell you that it has lead to many new friendships and contacts to call when questions come up.
New space to fill - a model railroaders dream. What type of Railroad? Good luck with the new layout and getting through the honey-do-list so you can get started. ;) Been there done that - as they say.
Quote from: ACL1504 on December 06, 2016, 09:58:07 AM
John,
I've been following but haven't checked your thread in a week or so. As Greg stated don't get discouraged with the lack of response.
Greg can tell you I'm not one for design and planning as he would want me to be. I have ideas in my pea head that never make it to paper.
I have an area on my layout that will be about 2X38 ft and I figure I'll need about 60 to 75 structures for that one area alone. After the 2017 NMRA, I see lots of kit bashing, scratch building and kits in my future.
Let me take a minute or two and give my opinion of interest and posting to threads. You and I are very prolific in our posting and obviously not so with others members. This forum is my quasi face book. The friends I want to know are here.
Now, I've noticed that posting and interest are cyclical in nature. I haven't seen much interest in my Delwin's thread or layout build thread. The regulars post but not many new ones. I put up some pretty good info and about 50 pictures with no comments for weeks. However, I keep going as the threads keep me focused.
I get about 1,000 views for every five posts.
Keep doing what you are doing and the interest will eventually pick up.
Tom ;D
Hi Tom
Thanks for stopping by the thread and for the encouraging words. If you look at all the views we all get on this forum there are a lot of people interested. I'm not sure why we don't get more posts but people are busy. I will keep posting as long as I think it's worth my time and doesn't keep me from working on my layout. I have to discipline myself to set a maximum time on the computer each day to keep that from happening.
It may just might take more than a year to get all those F&SM pictures posted. ;)
Thanks again,
Quote from: jimmillho on December 06, 2016, 12:02:44 PM
Quote from: GPdemayo on December 06, 2016, 09:25:39 AM
John, don't get discouraged by the lack of feedback to your thread. There are some of us out here who are very interested in the design process, but don't have the time to engage in a discussion on the forum. I barely have enough time keeping current with all the posts as it is.
Layout design and building the structures are my favorite areas of the hobby. I must have 20 or 25 versions of what I would like for a layout, from the bare minimum design to one which has no limits to the amount of space it requires. The space for the reproduction of post WWII St. Louis Union Station is about 18' x 24' and about the same for Grand Central Station in New York.
As to your plan for a town for all the FSM kits, the big challenge I see is the need for so many sidings for all the kits that require them. I would think that might be the biggest problem you will face, especially all those coal companies, which are pretty big space hogs.
Please keep adding the design process into your thread so we can see what you are planning. :)
John,
I agree with Greg. I enjoy reading what you have accomplished an your posts. I do not have the space or the time to build what you have. I used to live in Michigan about 50 years ago and can relate to your adventures with Fishing and the Weather.
Don't get discouraged and keep on designing, building and showing us what you have done.
Jim
Jim
Thanks for watching the thread and taking the time to post your encouraging words. I plan on keeping this build thread going as long as there is interest.
"What FSM kits "have to be there" on the main street of a town called Sellios?"
John, I have enjoyed following along with your S&S RR build in the shadows for some time. Since your inquiry above, I have been thinking about which FSM kits would be essential along a Main Street ....
Not knowing exactly what you intend, I would offer that the following would likely fit well within a Main Street scenario. Roadside Delights with the gas station and the diner, Stuffy's Brewery, Jeffries Point, and of course any or all of George's street scene kits Skinners Row, Houligan's Alley, and/or Dexters Dead End.
Hope the above provides you some food for thought,
I will be following along,
Thanks,
--Paul
Quote from: S&S RR on December 06, 2016, 02:18:08 PM
Quote from: jimmillho on December 06, 2016, 12:02:44 PM
Quote from: GPdemayo on December 06, 2016, 09:25:39 AM
John, don't get discouraged by the lack of feedback to your thread. There are some of us out here who are very interested in the design process, but don't have the time to engage in a discussion on the forum. I barely have enough time keeping current with all the posts as it is.
Layout design and building the structures are my favorite areas of the hobby. I must have 20 or 25 versions of what I would like for a layout, from the bare minimum design to one which has no limits to the amount of space it requires. The space for the reproduction of post WWII St. Louis Union Station is about 18' x 24' and about the same for Grand Central Station in New York.
As to your plan for a town for all the FSM kits, the big challenge I see is the need for so many sidings for all the kits that require them. I would think that might be the biggest problem you will face, especially all those coal companies, which are pretty big space hogs.
Please keep adding the design process into your thread so we can see what you are planning. :)
John,
I agree with Greg. I enjoy reading what you have accomplished an your posts. I do not have the space or the time to build what you have. I used to live in Michigan about 50 years ago and can relate to your adventures with Fishing and the Weather.
Don't get discouraged and keep on designing, building and showing us what you have done.
Jim
Jim
Thanks for watching the thread and taking the time to post your encouraging words. I plan on keeping this build thread going as long as there is interest.
Good News, I plan to read this build thread as long as it is update :)
Eric Québec
I'm following your thread John, but have no experience with George's kits except for owning a few , but haven't built one yet. However I don't think there are many FSM kits that fit main street, imho most of them are for the backstreets.
Quote from: PaulS on December 06, 2016, 04:22:42 PM
"What FSM kits "have to be there" on the main street of a town called Sellios?"
John, I have enjoyed following along with your S&S RR build in the shadows for some time. Since your inquiry above, I have been thinking about which FSM kits would be essential along a Main Street ....
Not knowing exactly what you intend, I would offer that the following would likely fit well within a Main Street scenario. Roadside Delights with the gas station and the diner, Stuffy's Brewery, Jeffries Point, and of course any or all of George's street scene kits Skinners Row, Houligan's Alley, and/or Dexters Dead End.
Hope the above provides you some food for thought,
I will be following along,
Thanks,
--Paul
Hi Paul
Thanks for stopping by the thread and your thoughts on FSM kits for my main street of Sellios. The kits you listed are on my list along with Oatman's, Avram's Baking, and the Franklin Watch Works. The side streets will also feature some FSM kits including Butcher's Way, Barnstead Lumber, and Chester Rawlings. I sure have a lot of structures to build. ;)
Quote from: Janbouli on December 06, 2016, 06:25:01 PM
I'm following your thread John, but have no experience with George's kits except for owning a few , but haven't built one yet. However I don't think there are many FSM kits that fit main street, imho most of them are for the backstreets.
Hi Jan
Thanks for stopping by the thread. You are correct about the typical small town USA main street. But this town is going to be a mountain rural town with very functional small town businesses. Some of the kits I plan to use in some form are listed above in my response to Paul's post. As I get further along with the design, I will post pictures of the kits and how I think they will fit into the scene. I hope this works.
So here is a progress photograph from today's work. I once asked George Sellios what it was like to cut the top of Mt. Allen on the F&SM. He told me that once he had a change in his head he just got out the saw. So today I got out the saw.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-061216203606.jpeg)
This area is the future home of one of my cities on the layout. I had always planed to cover the base of the mountains here and build the city up to the backdrops. Now that the return loops will be inside the city, I decided to remove the base of the mountains so it would be easier to work on them. All that plaster is held up by 2x4's so I didn't need the base to support the weight. Now I can build the helix from bottom to top in layers - which will be much easier. Once the benchwork is complete I will add the ground forms that the city will be built on. I have some clay mockup work to do to finalize that design.
Quote from: EricQuebec on December 06, 2016, 05:09:43 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on December 06, 2016, 02:18:08 PM
Quote from: jimmillho on December 06, 2016, 12:02:44 PM
Quote from: GPdemayo on December 06, 2016, 09:25:39 AM
John, don't get discouraged by the lack of feedback to your thread. There are some of us out here who are very interested in the design process, but don't have the time to engage in a discussion on the forum. I barely have enough time keeping current with all the posts as it is.
Layout design and building the structures are my favorite areas of the hobby. I must have 20 or 25 versions of what I would like for a layout, from the bare minimum design to one which has no limits to the amount of space it requires. The space for the reproduction of post WWII St. Louis Union Station is about 18' x 24' and about the same for Grand Central Station in New York.
As to your plan for a town for all the FSM kits, the big challenge I see is the need for so many sidings for all the kits that require them. I would think that might be the biggest problem you will face, especially all those coal companies, which are pretty big space hogs.
Please keep adding the design process into your thread so we can see what you are planning. :)
John,
I agree with Greg. I enjoy reading what you have accomplished an your posts. I do not have the space or the time to build what you have. I used to live in Michigan about 50 years ago and can relate to your adventures with Fishing and the Weather.
Don't get discouraged and keep on designing, building and showing us what you have done.
Jim
Jim
Thanks for watching the thread and taking the time to post your encouraging words. I plan on keeping this build thread going as long as there is interest.
Good News, I plan to read this build thread as long as it is update :)
Eric Québec
Eric
Thanks for following along.
Here are a couple pictures of the area after the mess was cleaned up. The one loop of track that is still standing will be part of the helix but will be lower about 3 inches on the cut end. If you look back into the dark under the mountain you can see the area that will be utilized for the helix. This is actually the area underneath the stairs that lead up to the first level of the house.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-071216192850.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-071216192817.jpeg)
The specifications for the helix are a 2 percent grade with a 24 inch radius. The helix will be an oval with a total length of 80 inches. That gives us 215 inches of run per loop - so we can drop 4.25 inches per loop at a 2% grade. The narrow gauge will require 5 loops and the HO main will require 3 loops to bring the trains down to the main level.
As I mentioned above, I plain on making a scale clay mock-up of this area to develop the land forms and the potential structure space will be represented with pieces of wood or cardboard. This will allow me to visualize where the tracks may be visible, where I may want to add sidings, and the relative size and type of the structures I want to build for the area. There will be a lot of elevation change in this area so being able to visualize it in 3D will be very helpful. If this clay mock-up idea works well for this area I will also use it for my harbor scene and for the town of Sellios.
I will post more on this process later when I have something to show. For now, I have two trestles to build and a lot of track work to complete to get to this area.
I've been following along too, sorry I don't comment very often. Good luck with the reconstruction.
Quote from: jbvb on December 08, 2016, 09:39:50 AM
I've been following along too, sorry I don't comment very often. Good luck with the reconstruction.
Hi James
Thanks for stopping by the thread and for taking time to post.
John, I have been following your progress since I signed back on the forum, never miss a night. I might not comment much but I am taking it all in.
Quote from: ak-milw on December 08, 2016, 07:56:55 PM
John, I have been following your progress since I signed back on the forum, never miss a night. I might not comment much but I am taking it all in.
Andy
Thanks for following along.
The rock work looks great John. :) 8)
Stay cool and run steam........... 8) 8)
Quote from: Powersteamguy1790 on December 08, 2016, 09:00:34 PM
The rock work looks great John. :) 8)
Stay cool and run steam........... 8) 8)
Bob
Thanks for the kind words and for following the thread.
I made some progress on the trestle builds. Have enough bents glued up for the first trestle and started gluing them in place on the baseboard. Yes, the 1x3 is a little out of scale but works great for holding things in place while the glue dries.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-101216213409.jpeg)
I also got started on the mack-up for my new town (still working on a name for this one). The first step is to make a scale grid drawing of what is there and staying. I will use this to put the base together for the clay mock-up. The scale will be 0.25 inches to the inch.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-101216213528.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-101216213528.jpeg)
I did some more work on the mock-up of this area. The drawing was completed and I started to make the model. First step was to build the scale box out of artiste board.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-111216213743.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-111216213743.jpeg)
All of the key dimensions where transferred from the drawing to the the model.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-111216214144.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-111216214213.jpeg)
I added artist board to the hole areas of the model to save on the amount of clay that would be required.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-111216214253.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-111216214332.jpeg)
The final step for today was to start adding the clay.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-111216214409.jpeg)
John,
I've done and redone my layout so many times I'm the last person who should be offering any kind of "design" advice. I can't really offer a lot of specifics - but will offer some general suggestions. Heck, my advice is worth every penny you're paying for it so here goes.
1. Rather than offer a laundry list of FSM kits (I'd be unable to name more than a few of them anyway...) I'd suggest you think in terms of shapes, heights, and (to a certain extent) colors and not get too focused on trying to pick the quintessential FSM kits for the scene. The mountain is a huge strong vertical element - you said the town would be on some sort of slope. That sounds good to me. Very dynamic and dramatic scene. So if there's a building with a tower, for example, put that tall vertical element on the other side of the scene, creating in essence, two "mountaintops." make sense?
2. While there's no denying you're inspired by George's layout, I think you need to keep in mind that much of the townsites on the F&SM are (relatively) flat - certainly compared to what you seem to be doing here. There are three articles you might look over - they may provide some inspiration. One is the piece Malcolm Furlow did in MR on Sheridan, Colorado scene on his otherwise defunct Rio Chama. He faced many of the same challenges you have here - especially note the way he zig-zagged the roads up and down the mountainside.
Second article is the one Bob Hayden did on planning the expanded C&DR - especially note how he arranged the town buildings in the main harbor scene in logical groupings, and then used color and tone to blend them together into a cohesive whole. The third is Sam Posey's article on using the same composition elements artist use in creating a painting or photo to develop a scene.
I think those three articles are some of the best scene planning articles ever to appear in the model railroad press. They don't get mentioned anywhere near enough because they don't focus on the squibbly bits (track) that tends to dominant "planning" discussions in the press.
3. Finally, while there are some buildings that require rail service not every building needs to be on a track, or have a dedicated siding (you've already noted the latter). On my layout most of the industries are located on long, double-ended house tracks - I think have only have 4 or 5 industries with their own dedicated tracks. Trying to include a bunch of buildings, each with their own siding, is going to be a difficult track planning challenge and create a visually jumbled mess that will detract from the look I think you're going for.
Hope this helps,
Marty
Quote from: CVSNE on December 12, 2016, 10:03:40 AM
John,
I've done and redone my layout so many times I'm the last person who should be offering any kind of "design" advice. I can't really offer a lot of specifics - but will offer some general suggestions. Heck, my advice is worth every penny you're paying for it so here goes.
1. Rather than offer a laundry list of FSM kits (I'd be unable to name more than a few of them anyway...) I'd suggest you think in terms of shapes, heights, and (to a certain extent) colors and not get too focused on trying to pick the quintessential FSM kits for the scene. The mountain is a huge strong vertical element - you said the town would be on some sort of slope. That sounds good to me. Very dynamic and dramatic scene. So if there's a building with a tower, for example, put that tall vertical element on the other side of the scene, creating in essence, two "mountaintops." make sense?
2. While there's no denying you're inspired by George's layout, I think you need to keep in mind that much of the townsites on the F&SM are (relatively) flat - certainly compared to what you seem to be doing here. There are three articles you might look over - they may provide some inspiration. One is the piece Malcolm Furlow did in MR on Sheridan, Colorado scene on his otherwise defunct Rio Chama. He faced many of the same challenges you have here - especially note the way he zig-zagged the roads up and down the mountainside.
Second article is the one Bob Hayden did on planning the expanded C&DR - especially note how he arranged the town buildings in the main harbor scene in logical groupings, and then used color and tone to blend them together into a cohesive whole. The third is Sam Posey's article on using the same composition elements artist use in creating a painting or photo to develop a scene.
I think those three articles are some of the best scene planning articles ever to appear in the model railroad press. They don't get mentioned anywhere near enough because they don't focus on the squibbly bits (track) that tends to dominant "planning" discussions in the press.
3. Finally, while there are some buildings that require rail service not every building needs to be on a track, or have a dedicated siding (you've already noted the latter). On my layout most of the industries are located on long, double-ended house tracks - I think have only have 4 or 5 industries with their own dedicated tracks. Trying to include a bunch of buildings, each with their own siding, is going to be a difficult track planning challenge and create a visually jumbled mess that will detract from the look I think you're going for.
Hope this helps,
Marty
Marty
This is exactly the kind of discussion I wanted this build thread to generate. I will definitely find and read or reread the three articles you mentioned. Any chance you remember where they were published?
One of the things I did different on this layout (it's not my first) is building the mountains first, and then I'm making the rest of the scenery and structures fit the land. Many model railroads are built backwards with the land forms and scenery built around the structures. If you spend time studying the F&SM George has taken bits and pieces of his kits, and others, and built structures that fit an area - I think the town of Franklin is the best example of this. My plan is to develop these towns using bits and pieces from lots of kits, not just FSM but combinations of design elements from many different kit makers. When I buy a kit it's for a particular design element that I like. Your point about a tower and the mountains was very timely. If you look at Doug's latest waterfront kit there is a large structure with a tower. I bought it with this current town in mind for the corner opposite the tall mountain. Bob VanGelder has a couple designs that are competing for that spot on the layout. So the bottom line is that I'm building this scale mockup so I can test the look of different structures in each of these spots. My design process is probably five years ahead of my building process but both are going on simultaneously. I like to switch back and forth allowing time to pass looking at the possibilities for a particular area before the structures actually start getting planted. Thanks again Mary for the great discussion.
I should also mention - that the clay model idea comes from all my years in the auto industry. Every new car design starts with a full size clay model. Even now, when the designs are done in the computer a clay model is then machined using CNC technology for assessment and changes. One of my jobs was to interact with the designers and assess the manufacturability of the body panels on the car. One of the keys to that process was to picture what the inner supporting parts also needed to look like. This process of changing the designs to make them more manufacturable was like being a diplomat. So I'm used to clay models and surfaces and making changes using this process. I will post pictures of the process from time to time and you can see how I use it for my layout. Who knows, you might find it helpful with your layout.
Dave Frary talks about building 'models of models' as a key part of his layout planning. But then not everyone has Frary's artistic/visualization skills....
dave
John,
Here are the articles -
1. Designing the "new" Carrabasset & Dead River" - Hayden - Model Railroader, November 1981
2. "Sheridan Colorado, 1927" - Malcolm Furlow - Model Railroader, July 1981
3. "Magic of Illusion" Sam Posey - Model Railroader, Dec 2001 (Didn't have to look this one up as it was the last article I proofed before leaving MR on my last day at Kalmbach!)\
Marty
Quote from: CVSNE on December 12, 2016, 02:28:00 PM
John,
Here are the articles -
1. Designing the "new" Carrabasset & Dead River" - Hayden - Model Railroader, November 1981
2. "Sheridan Colorado, 1927" - Malcolm Furlow - Model Railroader, July 1981
3. "Magic of Illusion" Sam Posey - Model Railroader, Dec 2001 (Didn't have to look this one up as it was the last article I proofed before leaving MR on my last day at Kalmbach!)\
Marty
Thanks Marty
Its also cool to modify kits to fit a space or scratchbuild a kit for a custom fit! I agree about not having a lot of sidings, so many of the kit dioramas always have a railroad siding on them but its just not practical to do this on my layout. I wanted a city scene on one end of my layout and a seaport on rhe other,,,,,BUT, I also wanted the train to be able to run continous.....well, just couldn't get it to look right so I did some tear out and am now just doing a point to point layout- cuz I enjoy the modeling/ diorama building much more than just having a train run around in a loop. Keep posting because I love learning from others and getting new ideas!
Quote from: rpdylan on December 13, 2016, 01:34:59 AM
Its also cool to modify kits to fit a space or scratchbuild a kit for a custom fit! I agree about not having a lot of sidings, so many of the kit dioramas always have a railroad siding on them but its just not practical to do this on my layout. I wanted a city scene on one end of my layout and a seaport on rhe other,,,,,BUT, I also wanted the train to be able to run continous.....well, just couldn't get it to look right so I did some tear out and am now just doing a point to point layout- cuz I enjoy the modeling/ diorama building much more than just having a train run around in a loop. Keep posting because I love learning from others and getting new ideas!
Hi Bob
It has been awhile since I explained my track plan and it may help here. My layout has 3 levels of HO and one level (the highest level) of HOn3.
The levels are basically different elevations in the same scene. So a train makes three HO loops through the layout with different scenery, industries, and towns to visit on each pass. The change in elevation and reversing to the next level happens mostly inside the mountains or under a city in the area I'm designing now. The train goes into a tunnel like it's going around the mountain and comes out at the next elevation. I didn't like the look of visible reversing loops. Each pass through the layout is about 140 linear feet - so we have approximately 420 feet of trackside space. It's actually more than that because the track makes lots of moves from the front to the back of the layout along the way at each level. The narrowest area on the layout is 4 feet deep and there are areas that are 8 foot deep. When I designed the original floor plan of the layout I wanted depth of scene, lots of elevation, and mountains to the ceiling. I hope these words help explain what I'm trying to accomplish.
The Narrow Gauge runs along the highest elevations once across 60 % of the layout and then goes down a helix under the layout and comes out at the other end of the layout after going up a helix at the same level.
Sounds great! I'm envious of the space that you have! Please keep posting photos- they are much appreciated!
Trestle build update: The bents are up on the first trestle - time for the cross bracing. The bent production for the second trestle continues with wood in the gluing jig.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-131216161117.jpeg)
I spent most of the day under the layout working on the benchwork for the helix. That work is hard on the knees. :'(
Quote from: S&S RR on December 13, 2016, 04:11:39 PM
Trestle build update: The bents are up on the first trestle - time for the cross bracing. The bent production for the second trestle continues with wood in the gluing jig.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-131216161117.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-131216161117.jpeg)
John,
I really like the look of the trestle bents. Great job my friend.
Also, in response to the "under the layout work" I find that I can't stay in a contorted position for very long. I'm sure it has nothing to do with my age! ;D ;D ;D
Tom 8)
You're probably already aware of this, but the bigger the kit, the harder it is to make it look right on sloping ground (unless it was designed for a slope, like some SRMW kits). I've committed to a number of sloping, urban or town streets. So far I've built one using kits and kitbashed structures. The foundations and entrances took significant effort to get right. At the moment, I find myself doing structures on the flat parts of my layout first, because it's easier.
Quote from: ACL1504 on December 13, 2016, 05:36:28 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on December 13, 2016, 04:11:39 PM
Trestle build update: The bents are up on the first trestle - time for the cross bracing. The bent production for the second trestle continues with wood in the gluing jig.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-131216161117.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-131216161117.jpeg)
John,
I really like the look of the trestle bents. Great job my friend.
Also, in response to the "under the layout work" I find that I can't stay in a contorted position for very long. I'm sure it has nothing to do with my age! ;D ;D ;D
Tom 8)
Tom
Thanks for stopping by the thread and for the kind words. I'm sure it has nothing to do with age - I think the layout is getting lower because of all that plaster. I think it's best that I get all this under the layout work done while I'm still in my 50's. I need to work fast!
Hi John:
Looks great so far.
Karl
Quote from: jbvb on December 13, 2016, 11:38:09 PM
You're probably already aware of this, but the bigger the kit, the harder it is to make it look right on sloping ground (unless it was designed for a slope, like some SRMW kits). I've committed to a number of sloping, urban or town streets. So far I've built one using kits and kitbashed structures. The foundations and entrances took significant effort to get right. At the moment, I find myself doing structures on the flat parts of my layout first, because it's easier.
James
Thanks for stopping by the thread and for your input. You are correct that the slopping streets are a challenge, especially with larger structures. The key to making the structures look right is the foundations. This an area that is often overlooked by structure manufactures. One of the reasons SRMW kits work so well is Bob included a foundation for most if not all of his kits. It is amazing how many structures you see on layouts that are built right on the ground with no visible foundation. All of the structures on my layout will have some type of foundation either provided by the kit manufacture or scratch built. We need to discuss this again when the structures start going in.
Quote from: postalkarl on December 14, 2016, 03:49:33 PM
Hi John:
Looks great so far.
Karl
Karl
Thanks for stopping by and the kind words. I can't wait to get to the point where I can start planting more structures.
Today, I spent most of the day under the layout installing the hidden yard that I posted pictures of a few pages back. I also spent a couple hours working on the Jacob's Coal build and putting the top deck on the first trestle. This was a lesson learned from building my Mt. Aiden trestle. You need that sturdy top plate keeping everything square while you add the cross-bracing. All the bents are squared up and ready for the 100's of cross-braces that I need to add.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-141216193446.jpeg)
Looking good John. :) 8)
Stay cool and run steam........ 8) 8)
Hi John.
Looking good!
I've been pretty busy with sick dogs and house insurance stuff of late, so have missed a bit of the action online. As a consequence I'm a bit late to the party - however... I did a model of a model of my future shadowlands mountain part of my Tellynott layout. This part of the layout is a bit of a bowl of spaghetti with lots of changes in height. I drew a couple of plans - one on paper and one on thin card and cut out the track with a knife from the card plan. I glued the paper plan to a piece of polystyrene. I worked out the different track heights above the polystyrene base and marked 90mm flat head nails with a marker. I poked the nails down into the paper track plan (and into the poly base) until their marks were flush with the base. I then glued the cut out card plan to the top of the nails (in sections - I actually printed two card versions because there was so many up and overs). I built up the scenery using my expandable foam gun - carving as necessary. I also stained about 250 toothpicks brown, cut them in half, and poked them through some ground foam clumps to make trees (I wanted to estimate how many trees I would need), and planted these on the mountain. Anyway - it was all fairly quick and easy and made it easy to see whether it would work or not - and what might need changing. Very much worth the effort.
Hope the picture below explains better than my words!!!
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: Powersteamguy1790 on December 14, 2016, 09:31:56 PM
Looking good John. :) 8)
Stay cool and run steam........ 8) 8)
Bob
Thanks for stopping by. It's coming along - slow but sure.
Quote from: mark dalrymple on December 15, 2016, 03:14:58 AM
Hi John.
Looking good!
I've been pretty busy with sick dogs and house insurance stuff of late, so have missed a bit of the action online. As a consequence I'm a bit late to the party - however... I did a model of a model of my future shadowlands mountain part of my Tellynott layout. This part of the layout is a bit of a bowl of spaghetti with lots of changes in height. I drew a couple of plans - one on paper and one on thin card and cut out the track with a knife from the card plan. I glued the paper plan to a piece of polystyrene. I worked out the different track heights above the polystyrene base and marked 90mm flat head nails with a marker. I poked the nails down into the paper track plan (and into the poly base) until their marks were flush with the base. I then glued the cut out card plan to the top of the nails (in sections - I actually printed two card versions because there was so many up and overs). I built up the scenery using my expandable foam gun - carving as necessary. I also stained about 250 toothpicks brown, cut them in half, and poked them through some ground foam clumps to make trees (I wanted to estimate how many trees I would need), and planted these on the mountain. Anyway - it was all fairly quick and easy and made it easy to see whether it would work or not - and what might need changing. Very much worth the effort.
Hope the picture below explains better than my words!!!
Cheers, Mark.
Mark
Thanks for posting the picture of your model of a model. Looks like great minds think alike. I have a few hours into the model that Im building and it's already sold me on the concept. It really helps to visualize the types of structures I want, where I want sidings, and where I need to bring in the little bulldozer. I will post pictures as I go through the process if you care to come along for the ride. I already know that this will be the first of many mack-ups that I will make of different areas of the layout. I think they will also be helpful in showing visitors my plans.
John the trestle is looking good.
I'll be watching for the next step.
Jerry
Quote from: Jerry on December 15, 2016, 05:54:56 PM
John the trestle is looking good.
I'll be watching for the next step.
Jerry
Jerry
Thanks for following along. I made some more progress today - I got a good start on the cross-bracing. I'll take some pictures and post them tomorrow.
Quote from: S&S RR on December 15, 2016, 10:47:12 PM
Quote from: Jerry on December 15, 2016, 05:54:56 PM
John the trestle is looking good.
I'll be watching for the next step.
Jerry
Jerry
Thanks for following along. I made some more progress today - I got a good start on the cross-bracing. I'll take some pictures and post them tomorrow.
John glad the drinking and flickering lights are not holding you back!!!! :D Just kidding abou the drinking or is the party with Bob still on??? ???
Jerry
Quote from: Jerry on December 16, 2016, 11:01:00 AM
Quote from: S&S RR on December 15, 2016, 10:47:12 PM
Quote from: Jerry on December 15, 2016, 05:54:56 PM
John the trestle is looking good.
I'll be watching for the next step.
Jerry
Jerry
Thanks for following along. I made some more progress today - I got a good start on the cross-bracing. I'll take some pictures and post them tomorrow.
John glad the drinking and flickering lights are not holding you back!!!! :D Just kidding abou the drinking or is the party with Bob still on??? ???
Jerry
Jerry
I got my diagonal cutters out and ready to cut the wires to that light this morning and it has not flickered since. Bob is welcome to come over for a drink anytime but there is some tough sledding between Idaho and Michigan this time of the year. I have a plan to eliminate the problem light fixture - if it starts flickering again.
I got started on the cross-braces for the trestle today. I keep gluing until I run out of the long soldiering clamps that allow me to reach in and hold the pieces in place while the glue dries. Then it's back under the layout to work on the helix. The helix is coming along - lots of cutting and fitting in a cramped space. I will try to take a picture when it's complete.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-161216184654.jpeg)
John...
That trestle is going to way too cool. You need to consider entering it for judging. I have been working at a distance with Jack Hamilton here in the west on a distance judging rubric.
Regarding that light. Just leave that cutter close by and threaten it with non existence.
About that drink. That will have to wait.
See ya
Bob
Quote from: bparrish on December 16, 2016, 07:56:12 PM
John...
That trestle is going to way too cool. You need to consider entering it for judging. I have been working at a distance with Jack Hamilton here in the west on a distance judging rubric.
Regarding that light. Just leave that cutter close by and threaten it with non existence.
About that drink. That will have to wait.
See ya
Bob
Bob
The drink will always be here waiting for you. The cutters will be ready and waiting if that light acts up. You bring up an interesting point out judging of models. I have never participated in model contests because my models are for my layout and the idea of having them bounce along in a box half way across the country is just unacceptable to me. Is there a check sheet for judging a model? My judge is - I like the results. And hopefully every model I build is a little better than the last. It would be interesting to me to get expert eyes to judge a model and offer ways of improving.
John...
There has always been a process where the judges come to you. That has to exist because scenery is not real portable. Similarly with electric and engineering which includes track work. There are a few ways to make a module of track and move it.
There must be some known cadre of judges you can start a conversation with.
See ya
Bob
Quote from: bparrish on December 17, 2016, 12:02:45 PM
John...
There has always been a process where the judges come to you. That has to exist because scenery is not real portable. Similarly with electric and engineering which includes track work. There are a few ways to make a module of track and move it.
There must be some known cadre of judges you can start a conversation with.
See ya
Bob
Bob
I'm just getting started at the local division of the NMRA - I'm sure there are judges. When I was working I didn't have time for the local meetings. I have been to a few Nationals. I have been a regular at Narrow Gauge Conventions for many years.
I made some more progress on the trestle today. It sure is a lot easier building trestles on your work bench rather than in location on the layout like the last two that I built.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-171216215753.jpeg)
John...
Just amazing..
Thanx
Bob
Quote from: bparrish on December 18, 2016, 01:26:46 AM
John...
Just amazing..
Thanx
Bob
Bob
Thank you for the encouraging words.
Quote from: EricQuebec on December 18, 2016, 07:24:44 AM
Quote from: bparrish on December 18, 2016, 01:26:46 AM
John...
Just amazing..
Thanx
Bob
Ditto
Eric Quebec city
Eric
Thank you for the encouraging words. The bents are complete for the second trestle so I should get started on that today. I need more clamps.
John the trestle build looks awesome, now I know why I cannot find any of those clamps in the store.
Quote from: Twopoint2 on December 18, 2016, 10:07:12 AM
John the trestle build looks awesome, now I know why I cannot find any of those clamps in the store.
Jim
Thanks for the kind words. I bought the clamps for making super tree aspen trees a few years back. I bought a couple dozen of them on one of those super sales where being that many made since. I wish I would of bought 4 dozen of them. Extremely useful. I don't know how I could have built the trestles without them. They just reach those places where you can't fit another clamp.
I just removed my last bent out of my old trusted bent gluing fixture for this part of the layout. Any new trestles will be design change additions or future expansion. If you look closely, you can see some of the modification that were made for the HOn3 trestle bents. I glued up 60 trestles that made it on the layout in this fixture. There were many trial bents made along the way. The fixture went back in it's place in my storage cabinet waiting for the next trestle build.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-181216104721.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-181216104721.jpeg)
When I first looked at this I thought one of those circus knife throwers had been practicing here until I saw the trestle!! ;D
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-171216215753.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-171216215753.jpeg)
Quote from: barrymk on December 18, 2016, 11:00:33 AM
When I first looked at this I thought one of those circus knife throwers had been practicing here until I saw the trestle!! ;D
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-171216215753.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-171216215753.jpeg)
It sure does look weird with all the clamps. All the knife throwing happens off camera. ;D
Yeah... what was the Edward scissors hands gig ? ? ?
see ya
Bob
The first pile of sticks is now a trestle - some detailing work and track to do and it's ready to plant on the layout. The second pile of sticks awaits.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-201216082623.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-201216082623.jpeg)
John...
Just magnificent....
Are you going to include NBW's where it shows on this as part of you detail list?
Also..... If you EVER think that you would want to hand lay the track I have a bunch of old Kemtron tie plates still in the original packages that I would happily donate to the cause of you getting this judged.
Let me know.
see ya
Bob
John, it looks great. You should build the next one out of clamps and forget the wood.
Quote from: bparrish on December 20, 2016, 01:09:17 PM
John...
Just magnificent....
Are you going to include NBW's where it shows on this as part of you detail list?
Also..... If you EVER think that you would want to hand lay the track I have a bunch of old Kemtron tie plates still in the original packages that I would happily donate to the cause of you getting this judged.
Let me know.
see ya
Bob
Bob
I plan on the NBW's on this side. I cheated on the side that doesn't show and used paint applied with a toothpick. I have four wooden trestles on the layout, the largest that I built last winter is 7 foot long (there are pictures back a few dozen pages in this thread). If I was to have some judges over to the layout I would have them take a look at that one. I didn't hand lay the track - I used micro-engineerings bridge flex track and plan on the same for these two trestles. Hand laid track is one of the places I drew the line - I want to finish this layout and well you know the story. This trestle is going to be about 4 feet from the viewer on the layout so we are adding the detail for the camera.
Quote from: ak-milw on December 20, 2016, 07:56:56 PM
John, it looks great. You should build the next one out of clamps and forget the wood.
Andy
Thanks for stopping by the thread. I don't even think John Allen had a bridge or trestle made out of clamps. It would be an expensive project. ;)
Can't wait to see it in place on the layout...
Eric Quebec city
Quote from: EricQuebec on December 21, 2016, 07:10:20 AM
Can't wait to see it in place on the layout...
Eric Quebec city
Eric
Me too! I'm working on the track work in this area now so it should be going in soon. The plan is to add the structures and scenery detailing in this area this winter. I'm splitting my modeling days between the workbench and working on the remaining track work. My back likes that better than all day under the layout. ;)
Speaking of working under the layout. I took this picture of the hidden yard installation under the layout (see construction pictures a few pages back). A camera and lighting will make this yard functional for locomotive and rolling stock storage. I will be adding the artist board guard rails (just in case). Another safety feature is a dead block siding between the main layout and the hidden yard so an operator can't throw the switch and send a train into the yard without a powering it by throwing a lighted switch.
Having a safe place to store your locomotives and rolling stock during construction is a important consideration with layout construction. I also think this yard will add some OPS interest when the layout becomes operational. Details when we get to operations (? when that will be).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-211216071122.jpeg)
The helix that will loop the trains from the highest level to the middle level will fill the space above this yard in the coming days.
I took a few pictures of the area that will be the town of Sellios to use for some design studies and I thought I would post this picture of the site. This area is pretty large and will someday be the home for many kits and scratch built structures. I used the panorama feature on my iPhone to take this picture. If you scroll over on the picture you can see where the Mount Aiden Trestle is in relation to this scene. The pink foam baseboard is for the Salyes Mill - one of the South River Modelworks kits. A river is planned for the back of this scene and will follow the base of the mountain to the front of the scene on the right side. At this point I'm trying footprints and pictures on this scene to decide which structures will be planted on which building sites. I also want to add some more below base level topography to the scene.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-231216160515.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-231216160515.jpeg)
That is going to be an awesome town. You have a great eye for laying out the track work and scenery. There is lots of room to have some elevated structures in the background up the hill.
What is the area above the pink ground foam going to be used for. It looks like some switchback roads in progress?
Quote from: Rail and Tie on December 23, 2016, 04:17:41 PM
That is going to be an awesome town. You have a great eye for laying out the track work and scenery. There is lots of room to have some elevated structures in the background up the hill.
What is the area above the pink ground foam going to be used for. It looks like some switchback roads in progress?
Darryl
You are correct. The stone Church that I built for the challenge will be at the top of that road. Current plan is for a residential area along a winding switchback road. The area on the other side of the river will be a series of structures. A couple of the structures will be built on top of access hatches so I can get back to this area for maintenance.
I started adding the nut and bolt castings to the trestle build yesterday.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-281216081301.jpeg)
John.
The trestle is very cool.
What is the Goo Gone stuff in the back of that photo?
see ya
Bob
Quote from: bparrish on December 28, 2016, 01:47:24 PM
John.
The trestle is very cool.
What is the Goo Gone stuff in the back of that photo?
see ya
Bob
Hi Bob
The Goo be Gone is on the workbench from a honey-do project. It works pretty well to take adhesives off from hard surfaces. I was using it to take the price tag Goo off a picture frame. The only model railroading use for it was when I used tape to protect some track during the application of scenery. It takes the glue off but I don't like the residue it leaves. I used alcohol to clean the track afterwards. I now tape down construction paper for track protection and make sure the tape is not on the track. It works much better. Lesson learned, as they say.
The work on the layout was right where I left it after taking a week to spend with my family. This weeks projects are more track work, the trestle builds, and the Jacob's Coal build.
John...
Thanx for the goo gone info.
I hate those stickers as they leave glue everywhere. Especially on wood products. It alters the wood's ability to accept stain even after sanding.
I use lacquer thinner on stuff that will take a distillate solvent.
I also learned the lesson about tape on rails. The hard way of course. Which is my primary learning style.
see ya
Bob
Quote from: bparrish on December 29, 2016, 12:11:28 PM
John...
Thanx for the goo gone info.
I hate those stickers as they leave glue everywhere. Especially on wood products. It alters the wood's ability to accept stain even after sanding.
I use lacquer thinner on stuff that will take a distillate solvent.
I also learned the lesson about tape on rails. The hard way of course. Which is my primary learning style.
see ya
Bob
Hi Bob
The only way I have had any luck getting stickers off from wood that I want to stain is with alcohol. I would not use Goo b Gone on unfinished wood.
Good judgement comes from experience.
Experience comes from bad judgement.
(anonymous Wise Man)
dave
Quote from: deemery on December 29, 2016, 04:49:38 PM
Good judgement comes from experience.
Experience comes from bad judgement.
(anonymous Wise Man)
dave
Wise none the less.
I made some progress on my clay mock-up project today.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-291216180010.jpeg)
The artist board stack up is complete. All I have to do now is fill it in with clay and start carving the land forms, fitting structure mockups, and deciding where the tracks will be visible. I wonder how many iterations I will go through before I get it where I want it.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-291216180130.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-291216180049.jpeg)
I completed all the work on the curved trestle that I can do on the workbench. Here is a final workbench photograph. It's time to install it on the layout.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-301216101509.jpeg)
John,
Your trestle is a work of art. It is wonderful and well done. I'm going to have to call you Mr. Trestle.
Again, John, beautiful craftsmanship my friend.
Tom ;D
Tom
Thanks for the kind words and for stopping by the thread. I just stopped for lunch after doing a test fit of the trestle on the layout. I like the depth it gives to the scene. I need to clear all the junk off the benchwork when I get through working in the area today, so I can take a picture.
Now, That is a trestle!!!!!!!! Beautiful.
Jim
Quote from: jimmillho on December 30, 2016, 03:23:47 PM
Now, That is a trestle!!!!!!!! Beautiful.
Jim
Jim
Thank you for the kind words.
I got started setting the bents for the second HOn3 Trestle, today.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-311216181226.jpeg)
I also got enough stuff cleared off the benchwork to take a couple pictures of the first trestle in location on the layout. This first picture is without the structures in place.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-311216181151.jpeg)
Here is a picture with the saw mill in place. All of the stonework to cover the new benchwork is made and ready to be installed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-311216181308.jpeg)
Here are a few more shots as I moved back.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-311216181340.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-311216181409.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-311216181441.jpeg)
I have one more loop of track to complete under this mountain and the track work will be done in this area. I will be spending a few days connecting the drop wires to the main bus. As soon as the trains are running, I will complete the scenery in this area and plant the structures permanently.
Lovin' it John!
Very nice, what a great layout..
Eric quebec
Quote from: ak-milw on December 31, 2016, 06:39:58 PM
Lovin' it John!
Andy
Thanks for the kind words and stopping by the thread.
Quote from: EricQuebec on January 01, 2017, 09:05:12 AM
Very nice, what a great layout..
Eric quebec
Eric
Thank you for the encouraging words.
Looking super, John!
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: mark dalrymple on January 01, 2017, 03:43:08 PM
Looking super, John!
Cheers, Mark.
Mark
Thank you for the kind words and for stopping by the thread. I'm really looking forward to completing some of the scenes on the layout this year.
The bents are glued in place and the top plate is installed on the second HOn3 trestle.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-020117221504.jpeg)
John...
Just the weight of the clamps is testing this trestle strength more than any train you will ever run over it.
Very cool
thanx
Bob
Quote from: bparrish on January 03, 2017, 02:16:33 AM
John...
Just the weight of the clamps is testing this trestle strength more than any train you will ever run over it.
Very cool
thanx
Bob
Bob
Yes it is. You will notice that without the cross-bracing I have it backed up with 3 inch angle plates.
Well, today was a slow progress day on the S&S RR, I had to wait for the furnace repair man which meant I had to answer the phone. So it turns out that he will need to come back in a couple days with $1200 worth of parts. :'( Oh, and for the Windows Service guy that called and needed to get on my computer to fix my software. That scam is so over. Rant over!
I'm back working on the layout today, spending most of my time working on the helix inside the mountain. Getting close to the finish line on this one. I will soon have one more intermountain helix to go and the track work will be done. ;D
I made some more progress on iteration 1 of my clay mock-up. You can start to see the different levels - next step is to decide areas where the track will be visible. Then I will have to decide on roadways and transitions between levels.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-090117203757.jpeg)
I have a place where I would like to have the HO track cross the HOn3 track at about a 60 degree angle. I have looked at about 6 sources and can not find a crossing that is commercially available - does anyone know of a source?
The only ones I could find were hand laid.
Jim
Quote from: jimmillho on January 10, 2017, 04:29:51 PM
The only ones I could find were hand laid.
Jim
Jim
Thanks for looking - that's what I'm finding too. I'm exploring different options using my clay mockup. I want to have an area where the HOn3 freight can be loaded off to the HO mainline.
Here are a few pictures of the clay mockup with all of the surfaces that need to be protected for clearance - the helix for both the HO and HOn3 will be below these surfaces. You can see where the lines would be visible in this scenario. This scenario also has a yard for the HOn3 line.
This is the starting point in laying out the city.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-100117170409.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-100117170340.jpeg)
I also considered making the canyon on the right a box canyon. I just set a couple blocks of clay to represent the left wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-100117170315.jpeg)
I really like using this mockup system to visualize where I want to go with this design. Models of models - love it.
John...
All this clay stuff........ is this left over from your car industry days ? ?
see ya
Bob
Quote from: bparrish on January 10, 2017, 05:15:56 PM
John...
All this clay stuff........ is this left over from your car industry days ? ?
see ya
Bob
Bob
It sure is - I spent lots of time in the clay studio assessing manufacturability of the new models. I was responsible for making the dies for the vehicle and had to approve the designs for manufacturability. It made for some interesting discussions. ;) Clay models are a wonderful visualization tool. Today, they still machine a full size clay model from the computer generated designs.
Today, I made good progress on the cross-bracing for the second HOn3 trestle. I also had Wayne Olson working with me on the layout today and we pulled most of the wires that I will need to get power to the new track work.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-120117184159.jpeg)
I'm sure enjoying the clay model mockup design process. I highly recommend it. I takes me about an hour to mockup a scenario. It sure beats making changes with plaster and wood. I keep coming up with designs I like better. ;)
At the end of the day yesterday I wrote down my likes and dislikes of this design direction for this city on the S&S RR.
First the likes: A yard for the HOn3 line, a location for transfer of cargo from the HOn3 line to the Main HO line, a city with lots of elevation change - city on a hill, and transfer of the trains between the 4 different levels of the layout "the helix". The dislikes: switches in the back of the layout (hard to reach), the yard through the center of the city ( I want it at the edge of the city preferably at a lower level), landform grade changes are to abrupt ( I want a somewhat continuous landform grade change), and no room for hidden storage for HOn3 rolling stock. So after creating this list last night, in the middle of the night, I woke up with a new helix and track design that I think will solve the issues. I will change the clay model over the next few days and confirm it. I sure like making these changes in clay rather than wood and plaster. I'm sold on this model of the model process. I just ordered the clay for the harbor scene mockup.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-100117170409.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-100117170409.jpeg)
I should add that this clay mockup will also be used to create the structures for this area using simple scale cardboard mockups. I see a lot of kit bashing and scratch building in my future.
Small changes inside the mountain are facilitating big changes on the outside.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-140117152755.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-140117152820.jpeg)
I'm currently moving the HOn3 yard to the front of the scene and the city will be in the back. First step is to block in the clay.
John,
Great job my friend. I've really enjoyed seeing your work on this area.
Tom ;D
I might not be saying much, but I am watching.
John...
From your response....
It sure is - I spent lots of time in the clay studio assessing manufacturability of the new models. I was responsible for making the dies for the vehicle and had to approve the designs for manufacturability. It made for some interesting discussions. (https://modelersforum.com/Smileys/default/wink.gif) Clay models are a wonderful visualization tool. Today, they still machine a full size clay model from the computer generated designs.
When I worked for Mercedes Benz I was pretty convinced that the body designers did not always talk to the power train people. Often we would have some manifold that would be buried under some fire wall assembly and most notably on V8 models, the rear spark plug on the driver side was completely inaccessible under the brake system vacuum booster assembly.
Either that or they were still angry at us for beating them in a war.
Again your railroad is to be very cool.
thanx
Bob
Quote from: ACL1504 on January 14, 2017, 03:50:43 PM
John,
Great job my friend. I've really enjoyed seeing your work on this area.
Tom ;D
Tom
Thanks for stopping by my friend. I'm really enjoying designing this section using this technique.
Quote from: ak-milw on January 14, 2017, 05:13:13 PM
I might not be saying much, but I am watching.
Andy
Thanks for stopping by and for the encouragement.
Quote from: bparrish on January 14, 2017, 06:09:00 PM
John...
From your response....
It sure is - I spent lots of time in the clay studio assessing manufacturability of the new models. I was responsible for making the dies for the vehicle and had to approve the designs for manufacturability. It made for some interesting discussions. (https://modelersforum.com/Smileys/default/wink.gif) (http://modelersforum.com/Smileys/default/wink.gif) Clay models are a wonderful visualization tool. Today, they still machine a full size clay model from the computer generated designs.
When I worked for Mercedes Benz I was pretty convinced that the body designers did not always talk to the power train people. Often we would have some manifold that would be buried under some fire wall assembly and most notably on V8 models, the rear spark plug on the driver side was completely inaccessible under the brake system vacuum booster assembly.
Either that or they were still angry at us for beating them in a war.
Again your railroad is to be very cool.
thanx
Bob
Bob
During the Chrysler / Mercedes days I spent a lot of time with Mercedes Engineers. We had to come to an understanding about how we did business on this side of the pond. After that I really enjoyed working with them. I sat through many "space war meetings" where each product engineer would fight for space in the vehicle. Packaging was and still is a huge design challenge.
The process I'm going through here for my layout is very similar - I have to package a helix inside the mountain and still have room on the top to build a city. I have a few design features that I would like to have. The two biggest are a yard for my HOn3 line and a transfer area for transferring cargo from the Narrow Gauge Line to the Standard Gauge HO line.
Here is a picture of the clay mock-up at the end of the day today. The top area - about 36 square feet - is ready for the city developers. I will be using the same process George Sellios used when he designed the town of Franklin on the F&SM. He put in the roads and then designed structures to fit the spaces. The blue line on the mock-up is the bottom edge of the backdrop you can see in the picture of the actual area on the layout. The landform from this flat up to the ceiling is all useable space. I added clay up to the highest point I thought I would want the ground level to be at this time. How many structures do you think this area will swallow up? My vision here is a town like Franklin on the F&SM.
It will not be a copy of it - but there will be some design cues.
The flat area moving from top to bottom is the area all ready for the Narrow gauge yard (the space is 12 inches wide and 48 inches long. Plenty of space for a Narrow Gauge Yard. I have the option to add some hidden area inside the mountain if I decide to use it. I would probably run the trains inside a structure to disguise it.
The second flat area is where the helix will be exposed and will be the location for the transfer facility. This area will also have a Station/Depot that will service both railroad lines. One of the sections of rock work that I removed from this area will probably cover the drop down to the lowest level of the mainline. The trains will come out of the tunnel from the helix here. So at this point I'm ready to finish building the benchwork and laying the track work in this area. This is the last section before the gold spike is driven home on the layout for now.
My commitment to the CEO of the S&S RR is to finish all of the structures and scenery and complete the layout with it's current footprint. That means it will be many years before the benchwork starts going into the next room ;) . The right-of-way has already been negotiated. ;)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-140117221136.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-140117221136.jpeg)
One more comment on this mockup and design for tonight. The backdrop - which has been on the wall for 6 or 7 years now is setup so the ground level as you walk in the door to the layout room is at my eye level. You will be looking right down one of the streets of the town at a street that will run up hill and then turn to the right. I knew what I wanted here when I built the room. This clay mockup has really helped me to accomplish my goals for the scene. I will be building cardboard mockups of the structures and adding them to this mockup as time goes on.
This week Wayne Olson spent a day helping me on the layout. I crawled out from under the layout and took this picture. I told him we had lots of track to paint. I want to be able to paint the track on the upper level when I'm 84. Just sayin. Thanks for all your help Wayne.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-150117161401.jpeg)
Benchwork load test
Quote from: ak-milw on January 15, 2017, 04:34:38 PM
Benchwork load test
No issues - I could drive the Jeep on it.
Great photo of a man at work. And, I'll add the rocks look very realistic. Heck, the guy with the knee pads even looks real. 8)
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on January 15, 2017, 04:43:18 PM
Great photo of a man at work. And, I'll add the rocks look very realistic. Heck, the guy with the knee pads even looks real. 8)
Tom ;D
Just a little out of scale.
John,
It'S the kind of picture that shows the gigantism of your layout..... :)
Eric Québec city
Quote from: EricQuebec on January 15, 2017, 04:53:02 PM
John,
It'S the kind of picture that shows the gigantism of your layout..... :)
Eric Québec city
Eric
It sure is going to take a lot of structures to make the scene look complete.
I'm spending some time this morning doing some pre-planning for all the wiring I need to do on the layout. At this point I have 90% of the wires pulled and all the drops attached to the track on the upper levels. Now, it's time to start attaching the drops. I like to have a meter on the circuit for each block as I connect the wires so I know immediately if I get my wires crossed. I will be switching between finishing the benchwork and track in the area we have been discussing above and connecting the wiring to the track that I have laid over the past few months.
The layout at this point has 108 blocks, 9 power districts run off from two 5 Amp power supplies. We will see if I need to add more juice once I get everything running. I have digital amp and volt meters that I need to wire into the control panel so I can monitor the power.
John...
While you have Wayne climbing around there.......
Have him go after that offending light fixture.
I did find out another thing about retrofitting LED tubes to existing fluorescent fixtures. You must have a newer solid state ballast to allow them to work properly. Most fixtures sold in recent years have such ballasts.
see ya
Bob
Quote from: bparrish on January 16, 2017, 03:01:36 PM
John...
While you have Wayne climbing around there.......
Have him go after that offending light fixture.
I did find out another thing about retrofitting LED tubes to existing fluorescent fixtures. You must have a newer solid state ballast to allow them to work properly. Most fixtures sold in recent years have such ballasts.
see ya
Bob
Hi Bob
I actually bought new fixtures for the valiance this week and will be adding directional LED lighting from there to make up for the overhead fixture that is giving me problems. It has to be the ballast but some days it works and others it flickers. I like the way I can make the aspen trees light up with the directional lighting. I will take some pictures once the area is completed and the new lights are installed.
Quote from: bparrish on January 16, 2017, 03:01:36 PM
John...
While you have Wayne climbing around there.......
Have him go after that offending light fixture.
I did find out another thing about retrofitting LED tubes to existing fluorescent fixtures. You must have a newer solid state ballast to allow them to work properly. Most fixtures sold in recent years have such ballasts.
see ya
Bob
Or buy the tubes for which you remove the ballast (more energy efficient?)
dave
Quote from: deemery on January 16, 2017, 06:25:15 PM
Quote from: bparrish on January 16, 2017, 03:01:36 PM
John...
While you have Wayne climbing around there.......
Have him go after that offending light fixture.
I did find out another thing about retrofitting LED tubes to existing fluorescent fixtures. You must have a newer solid state ballast to allow them to work properly. Most fixtures sold in recent years have such ballasts.
see ya
Bob
Or buy the tubes for which you remove the ballast (more energy efficient?)
dave
Hi Dave
I thought about that but changing them out is a real big deal now that all the trees are in that area so I decided to go to a different lighting system.
Update for today, the track work continues. I will be spending most of the day underneath the layout connecting drop wires. I have also finalized the design for the benchwork and track for the area in the clay mockup. I really need to come up with a name for that city.
John, I'm catching up on your thread. Your layout continues to impress me. I'm working on a much smaller layout. I decided to install the tortoise switches, powered frogs and wiring as I go so I won't confuse myself. Phil
Nice work John. :) 8)
Stay cool and run steam...... 8) 8)
Quote from: KCS Trains on January 20, 2017, 11:01:16 AM
John, I'm catching up on your thread. Your layout continues to impress me. I'm working on a much smaller layout. I decided to install the tortoise switches, powered frogs and wiring as I go so I won't confuse myself. Phil
Thanks for stopping by - once I get the trains running and the track work finished this layout is going to become a collection of small layouts connected together. I mean by this that I will be completing one section and then moving on to the next. I look forward to the day when I can look at a scene and say that complete.
Quote from: Powersteamguy1790 on January 20, 2017, 02:32:40 PM
Nice work John. :) 8)
Stay cool and run steam...... 8) 8)
Bob
Thanks for the kind words.
I bought one of Bob VanGelder's kits that I have had on my list for a number of years, yesterday. Bob called it Treadwell Textile - it was his second kit. I have the perfect place for a highly modified version of the kit. I love the stonework.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-210117080709.jpeg)
John great idea with the clay mockup and the Textile kit will look very nice on the layout.
Quote from: Twopoint2 on January 21, 2017, 09:12:59 AM
John great idea with the clay mockup and the Textile kit will look very nice on the layout.
Jim
Thanks - I have a feeling that I will be making some molds before I build this one.
Well, today I spent the day completing the sidings for the town of Sellios. I'm slowly making my way around the layout finishing the track work. It has been a long stretch of doing the same task, but I'm getting close enough that I want to complete the track work before I go back to building structures. I'm guessing that another 6 weeks will get me there. We will see. ;)
Well, today I went through two boxes of suit case connectors wiring droppers to the main bus lines. I think there is 100 in a box so that's a lot of drop wires. I think I will be ordering more connectors before I get through with this section of track work. My design rule for the layout is to make sure there are two pairs of drops for each section of track. I don't rely on the rail joiners for conductivity.
John, where do you get your suitcase connectors? Phil
Quote from: KCS Trains on January 26, 2017, 11:36:38 AM
John, where do you get your suitcase connectors? Phil
Phil
I bought my last batch off from Amazon. Here is what I'm using.
3M (TM) Scotchlok (TM) Double Run or Tap Electrical IDC Connector 560B-BOX
$12.00 per box of 100 right now. Last time I bought them I got 5 boxes for a couple dollars a box less.
I hope this helps.
Thanks John.
Great progress, John!
I see you have bought another of my all time favourite kits! It is beautiful in its simplicity. And yes - magnificent stone work.
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: mark dalrymple on January 26, 2017, 02:45:33 PM
Great progress, John!
I see you have bought another of my all time favourite kits! It is beautiful in its simplicity. And yes - magnificent stone work.
Cheers, Mark.
Hi Mark
Thanks for stopping by the thread. Yes - it has been on my buy list for years - I know exactly where the kit is going on my layout and I have plans for some of the parts in another build. Bob put out a number of excellent kits over the years. I think I have 8 of them planned for the S&S RR.
The cross-bracing is going on the second HOn3 trestle. I'm getting ready to install both of the HOn3 trestles on the layout in the next couple of weeks.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-270117081058.jpeg)
Today, I went through another box of suitcase connectors - these were the high ones - reaching up inside the mountains. I see some sore arms in the morning. :'( I also glued on the rest of the cross bracing on the second HOn3 trestle. Next step is the nut & bolt castings - a great project for sore arms. ;)
Excellent modeling John. I look forward to seeing the progress on the bridge. I buy my connectors at ACE hardware. They have 3 different sizes. It sounds like you use a whole lot more than I do, but maybe ACE will work in a clutch.
Quote from: PRR Modeler on January 27, 2017, 04:54:44 PM
Excellent modeling John. I look forward to seeing the progress on the bridge. I buy my connectors at ACE hardware. They have 3 different sizes. It sounds like you use a whole lot more than I do, but maybe ACE will work in a clutch.
Curt
Thanks for stopping by my thread and for the kind words. I have bought the connectors at my local ACE but the price
break on buying in bulk is to good to pass up.
Here is a picture of the second HOn3 trestle minus the clamps. This picture will serve as the before nut and bolt castings shot. I hope to add the castings sometime this weekend and will post a picture of the trestle completed on the workbench before it moved for installation on the layout.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-270117183705.jpeg)
Nice work on that trestle John. :) 8)
Stay cool and run steam......... 8) 8)
Quote from: Powersteamguy1790 on January 27, 2017, 09:26:10 PM
Nice work on that trestle John. :) 8)
Stay cool and run steam......... 8) 8)
Thanks Bob
It was a big day on the S&S RR today - I ran a locomotive over the Mt. Aiden trestle under power for the first time. I'm starting to do some testing of the wiring and track work on the upper levels of the layout. The upper levels of the layout will be coming on line one block at a time. I also went through another box of suitcase connectors - that makes 400 this week.
Good to hear your making progress and running trains. I'll bet your hands are sore from crimping all those connectors. :)
Jeff
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on January 29, 2017, 07:52:14 AM
Good to hear your making progress and running trains. I'll bet your hands are sore from crimping all those connectors. :)
Jeff
Jeff
Thanks for stopping by. Yes - hands and just about every other part of my anatomy are sore from all the crawling around. I have a creeper that I use to move around under the layout (see page 1 of this thread) - and I have put some miles on it the last few weeks. Reaching up over your head all day uses muscles that don't normal get stretched that way. I'm looking forward to the golden spike ceremony. I have a ways to go but it's within sight. I will be back building structures soon.
Awesome! I look forward to seeing picturesof the trestle in place. My back and arms hurt just thinking about doing 400 connectors in one week ;)
Quote from: PRR Modeler on January 29, 2017, 02:58:28 PM
Awesome! I look forward to seeing picturesof the trestle in place. My back and arms hurt just thinking about doing 400 connectors in one week ;)
Curt
Thanks for the kind words. I should be installing the two trestles in the next couple of weeks. I completed the HOn3 track up to the trestle on Saturday.
I want to get all the wiring completed up to this point and then move on around the layout.
Today, after 10 hours of wiring (as of today I'm 71% complete), my back needed a bench job so I started adding the nut and bolt castings to the HOn3 trestle that's on my workbench.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-010217215057.jpeg)
Another beautiful trestle !
John
I concur with John, what a beautiful job. The bolts add another level of realism.
Quote from: Cuse on February 02, 2017, 08:39:47 AM
Another beautiful trestle !
John
Thanks John - this is the last trestle needed to complete the track work for the current (before another expansion) layout.
Quote from: PRR Modeler on February 02, 2017, 09:21:31 AM
I concur with John, what a beautiful job. The bolts add another level of realism.
Curt
Thanks - it's a layer thing. When I get through adding the bolts I will get out the chalks and that will add another level of realism. My problem is knowing when to stop. ;)
A few months ago I purchased some HOn3 turnouts from a forum member that was changing scales. ;) I thought he might want to see where they are going to be used on the S&S RR. I plan on having an HOn3 yard on the middle level shown here on my clay mockup of the area. The next lower level will be home to a HO to HOn3 transfer facility and both gauges of track. This clay mockup is really nice to try different designs. All I have to do is whip my hand over the clay surface and try another design.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-020217133711.jpeg)
I have a special request - Does anyone have pictures of snow/rock sheds they would be willing to share? I have a number of areas that I want to protect the track from snow / rock slides and I'm doing some research on what the prototypical sheds looked like. Any helps with pictures / designs would be appreciated.
I want to thank everyone for responding to my request for pictures of snow / rock sheds. The responses can all be found on this thread in the baggage car.
http://modelersforum.com/general-daily-discussion/research-help-request-snow-rock-sheds/msg63605/?topicseen#new
I spent the last couple days getting a new model railroader started on his first layout. My Grandson Isaac and I had fun with this project.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-070217083606.jpeg)
Quality time :D
Quote from: PRR Modeler on February 07, 2017, 09:31:15 AM
Quality time :D
Yes it is - the very best. Everything is new and exciting.
Great scenery, glad to see you following prototype layout design elements on the grandson's layout. I would use a slightly larger radius on the curves. ;D
Jeff
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on February 07, 2017, 09:40:18 AM
Great scenery, glad to see you following prototype layout design elements on the grandson's layout. I would use a slightly larger radius on the curves. ;D
Jeff
Jeff
You have got a good point. He loves watching the trains run and his layout has sound. Grandpa has got to get his butt in gear and get this trains running on his layout, soon. I can't get that little tune the locomotive sings out of my head. ::)
The way it should be.
For the next few days I will be concentrating on wiring to get all the track work that I have installed to-date operational. I have one large section of benchwork and track work to complete and it will be time for the gold spike. ;D
I took a break from my wiring and finished adding the bolt castings to the HOn3 trestle on my workbench. I also added some chalk rust to the castings and bents. It is now ready to be installed on the layout. Any further weathering and detailing will be done with it installed.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-090217192730.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-090217192730.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-090217192702.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-090217192702.jpeg)
Nice work John. On the picture you posted in the baggage car this morning, I thought the brick work on the building is the best I have seen. Well done.
John,
That's going to look really good on the layout. Great job!! Phil
Quote from: PRR Modeler on February 09, 2017, 08:36:12 PM
Nice work John. On the picture you posted in the baggage car this morning, I thought the brick work on the building is the best I have seen. Well done.
Curt
Thanks for the kind words.
Quote from: KCS Trains on February 10, 2017, 11:32:38 AM
John,
That's going to look really good on the layout. Great job!! Phil
Phil
Thanks - I'm really looking forward to seeing one of my Narrow Gauge locomotives go across it.
John,
Wonderful job on the trestle my friend.
Tom ;D
Quote from: ACL1504 on February 10, 2017, 04:29:02 PM
John,
Wonderful job on the trestle my friend.
Tom ;D
Tom
Thanks for stopping by and the kind words. I went to my local Hobby Shop today to buy some styrene for gluing templates for my snow sheds and locomotive works. My next two build projects.
Nice work! can't wait to see it installed with a train going across it!
Quote from: rpdylan on February 10, 2017, 05:58:33 PM
Nice work! can't wait to see it installed with a train going across it!
Bob
Me too! I have about a weeks worth of wiring to complete and then I will be moving on to installing both of the HOn3 Trestles.
Good news on the wiring project. I have 80% of the wiring complete and tested. Now for the final push to complete it. ::)
If you are anything like me, you are really excited to be finishing up with the wiring :).
Quote from: PRR Modeler on February 11, 2017, 12:25:00 PM
If you are anything like me, you are really excited to be finishing up with the wiring :) .
Yes - It gets boring after 100's of hours. ;) It's not difficult, just time consuming. I have broke my layout into power districts, and the power districts are broken into blocks so it's more complex job. It is definitely worth it in the end if you have to find a short.
Quote from: S&S RR on February 11, 2017, 01:27:57 PM
Quote from: PRR Modeler on February 11, 2017, 12:25:00 PM
If you are anything like me, you are really excited to be finishing up with the wiring :) .
Yes - It gets boring after 100's of hours. ;) It's not difficult, just time consuming. I have broke my layout into power districts, and the power districts are broken into blocks so it's more complex job. It is definitely worth it in the end if you have to find a short.
I know that feeling well guys. :) ;) 8) It took quite some time to completely wire my layout for the track, switches, signals, etc. etc.
Stay cool and run steam......... 8) 8)
Quote from: Powersteamguy1790 on February 11, 2017, 03:38:13 PM
Quote from: S&S RR on February 11, 2017, 01:27:57 PM
Quote from: PRR Modeler on February 11, 2017, 12:25:00 PM
If you are anything like me, you are really excited to be finishing up with the wiring :) .
Yes - It gets boring after 100's of hours. ;) It's not difficult, just time consuming. I have broke my layout into power districts, and the power districts are broken into blocks so it's more complex job. It is definitely worth it in the end if you have to find a short.
I know that feeling well guys. :) ;) 8) It took quite some time to completely wire my layout for the track, switches, signals, etc. etc.
Stay cool and run steam......... 8) 8)
Bob
Thanks for stopping by the thread. I'm getting close on the track work. Turnouts and signals are in my future.
Tonight, I ran both a steam and diesel locomotive to the half way point and back on the upper two levels of the layout. ;D ;D ;D So far so good. I should get the power to about another third of the layout this week. More wiring.
The reversing loops are now operational so I can run trains on all of the track that has been put down. Now for the final stretch with the helix so I can go between levels. :D Making progress.
Congratulations on the milestone. I know how great that feels.
Quote from: PRR Modeler on February 14, 2017, 06:42:58 PM
Congratulations on the milestone. I know how great that feels.
Thanks Curt
It really does - I will be chasing my issues list for awhile but at least I can run a train. I'm really looking forward to getting back to structure building and scenery.
Congrats on reaching a good place on your Railroad.
When do you expect to drive the Golden Spike ?
Jim
Quote from: jimmillho on February 15, 2017, 11:26:10 AM
Congrats on reaching a good place on your Railroad.
When do you expect to drive the Golden Spike ?
Jim
Hi Jim
Thanks for stopping by the thread. I hope to drive the Gold Spike by May. I figure I have about 3 months work to finish the remaining track/bench work and wiring.
I ran a twelve car train and made a list of trouble spots that need to be addressed today. It sure was nice to see a train running on the S&S RR. The list isn't too bad. I have a couple clearance issues inside the mountain that will be fun to fix :o ::) ;) .
Been there with tunnel clearance issues. A pain in the butt.
Quote from: PRR Modeler on February 16, 2017, 11:40:35 AM
Been there with tunnel clearance issues. A pain in the butt.
Yes they are - both of them are in places where I had to reach in with the gauge to test it when I was installing the track. I have a test car with a block on it that is the real test gauge now that I'm running.
Well, tomorrow I'm back working on the layout after a few days to visit my Grandson and check on the cabin. I think a fresh look at the clearance issues inside the mountain should be the first order of business. Driving around the State of Michigan in February on dry pavement and 60 degree temperatures was a real treat. I even got to make the Jeep happy busting through a snow drift to drive into the cabin. Two years ago there was 4 - 6 feet of snow there in February when I visited. I had my snowshoes in the Jeep just in case.
Sounds like a nice trip. :D
Yesterday, I fixed a few of the items off my trouble list and ran a locomotive with a cleaning car over the layout about 6 times. I will be doing more testing today and moving on with the new track work. Making progress ;D .
Today, I spent most of the day fixing track issues inside the mountain. I'm getting there with the track work but I just needed a scenery fix. So I spent the last couple hours of the day adding some trees. Here is a before and after picture of the area.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-230217214921.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-230217213717.jpeg)
There is still a lot of work to be done on this scene but it gives me an idea what the finished product is going to look like.
Quote from: S&S RR on February 23, 2017, 09:52:05 PM
Today, I spent most of the day fixing track issues inside the mountain. I'm getting there with the track work but I just needed a scenery fix. So I spent the last couple hours of the day adding some trees. Here is a before and after picture of the area.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-230217214921.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-230217214921.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-230217213717.jpeg) (http://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-230217213717.jpeg)
There is still a lot of work to be done on this scene but it gives me an idea what the finished product is going to look like. I definitely need to adjust the lighting to get the shadows of the mountains off the backdrop.
I also took a picture of the HOn3 Trestle on it's way to final installation. Tomorrow I will be adding some trees behind the trestle and installing it.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/18-230217214955.jpeg)
The rock formations and the trestle look outstanding.
Coming together nicely John..... 8)
This thread is now locked - for safety. I'm concerned about the size of the file based on the problems we have had on the forum with file loss). I will be starting a new thread S&S RR build (Volume 2) thread where I will continue the story of this layout build.
Link to volume 2:
http://modelersforum.com/layout-tours/superior-seattle-railroad-build-(volume-2)-started-22517/
Updated the index on page 1.
Index to Volume 1 of the Superior & Seattle Railroad Build Thread
Index to the thread Updated 3/21/17.
INDEX
Page 1 Changing forums - the benchwork
Page 2 Overview and Status in March of 2014
Page 3 A look back at the Benchwork and Paster work on the mountains,
Painting the Plaster work
The Photo Back Drops
Making Aspen Trees
Page 4 Making Pine Trees
Preparing the Talus Materials
Page 5 Prototype Photographs
Page 6 Prototype Photographs
Control Panel
Page 7 Layout Diagram "original plan"
Roundhouse Photographs
The Stone Roundhouse Build - start
Page 8 Stone Roundhouse Build - the walls
Page 9 Stone Roundhouse Build - the Roof
Page 10 Stone Roundhouse Build - Painting
Page 11 Laying more track
Planning the town of Sellios
Page 12 Testing track
Page 13 First Runs - lower track
Page 14 Benchwork and Town layout - Sellios
Page 15 Benchwork and Town layout - Sellios
Page 16 Track work in Sellios
Page 17 Planning Structure Placement - Sellios
Page 18 Logo for the Superior & Seattle Railroad
Page 19 Cedar Shingle Pine Tree armatures
Modeling in the Summer
Page 20 Roofing on the Stone Roundhouse
Page 21 Doors on the Stone Roundhouse
Page 22 More plaster work
Page 23 Installing the DCC System
Page 24 DCC System Discussion
Page 25 DCC System Installation
Page 26 DCC System Installation
Page 27 More track installation
Page 28 Track Testing
Page 29 Door production for the Stone Roundhouse
Page 30 Ballasting The Eagles Nest Yard
Page 31 Ballasting The Eagles Nest Yard
Page 32 Changes - moving mountains
Page 33 Adding some talus materials
Page 34 Stone Roundhouse Build - Tar Paper Roof
Page 35 Stone Roundhouse Build - Doors, Windows, Trim
Page 36 Planting Aspen Trees,
prototype pictures Aspen Trees
Page 37 Stone Roundhouse Build Trim, Front Stone Work
Pictures of Mountains with Fall Color
Page 38 The view through "Wayne's hole"
Page 39 Some overall room photographs of the layout
Page 40 Stone Roundhouse Build - Painting the trim
Page 41 Stone Roundhouse Build - Installing the Windows
Page 42 The A&I tube
Page 43 Stone Roundhouse Build - Painting the Roof
Page 44 Stone Roundhouse Build - Final pictures on the workbench
Stone Roundhouse Build - Moving and installing on the layout
Page 45 Stone Roundhouse Build - Installation pictures
Page 46 Discussion of storage on the benchwork
Page 47 New - flex shaft rotary tool
Page 48 The Eagles Nest Yard
Page 49 Kit discussion
Page 50 Scenery on Mt. Aiden
Page 51 Mt. Aiden Trestle Build - bents
Page 52 Testing coloring for the Trestle
Page 53 Start of scenery on Mt. Aiden
Page 54 Progress pictures scenery on Mt. Aiden
Page 55 Surveying for the Trestle
Stripwood for the Mt. Aiden Trestle
Casting the footings for the Mt. Aiden Trestle
Page 56 Changes in the Mountains
Page 57 Coloring the trestle footings
Page 58 Mt. Aiden Scenery progress pictures
Page 59 Setting the footings for the Mt. Aiden Trestle
Page 60 Mt. Aiden Trestle Build first Bents
Page 61 Staining Stripwood
Page 62 Mt. Aiden Trestle Build
Page 63 Mt. Aiden Trestle Build
Page 64 Trestle Build progress pictures
Page 65 Trestle Build progress pictures
Page 66 Painting Bolt Castings
Page 67 Installing Bolt Castings - Mt. Aiden Trestle
Page 68 Cutting more strip wood
Dealing with impatient forum members
Page 69 Adding retaining walls
Page 70 Trestle Build progress pictures
Page 71 Counting nut and bolt castings
Page 72 Mt. Aiden Trestle - the finishing process
Page 73 Adding Scenery to Mt. Aiden
Page 74 Building retaining wall for Mt. Aiden
Pine Tree Production
Page 75 Dead Pine Trees
Page 75 The Brambell's Build Start - What's in the box
Page 76 Brambell's - Site preparation on the Layout
Page 77 Brambell's - Making Extra Castings
Page 78 Brambell's - Changing the site plan to fit my location on the layout.
Page 79 Brambell's - Making Molds
Page 80 Brambell's - Painting the castings
Page 81 Brambell's - Preparing the background scenery
Page 82 FSM Sawmill reconditioning for the S&S RR.
Page 83 Brambell's - Fitting castings to my site.
Page 84 Brambell's - Castings - lessons learned
Page 85 Brambell's - Painting the castings
Page 86 Brambell's - Testing the base with castings on the layout
Page 87 Brambell's - Detail castings - preparation for painting
Brambell's - The warehouse walls
Page 88 New Tools
Page 89 Brambell's - Warehouse Assembly
Page 90 Brambell's - Painting the detail castings
Brambell's - The wood retaining wall
Page 91 Brambell's - More Warehouse Assembly
Page 92 Brambell's - adding detail castings
Page 93 Brambell's - Warehouse Roof Construction
Page 94 Brambell's - Adding the Hoist House
Brambell's - Adding the back deck
Brambell's - A test fit on the layout
Page 95 Brambell's - Adding the ground cover
Page 96 Brambell's - Adding the Warehouse back shed
Page 97 Brambell's - More details
Page 98 Brambell's - Building the front deck
Page 99 Brambell's - Building the Trestle
Page 100 Brambell's - The cement wall
Brambell's - The Trestle Deck
Page 101 Updating the index
Page 102 Brambell's - Rail Siding and Dock
Adding more trees
Page 103 Brambell's Front Office
Page 104 Brambell's Scale and Scale House
Page 105 Brambell's Adding Dirt
Brambell's Test Plant on Layout
Page 106 Changes, Dad's, and the old layout
Page 107 Working in the Mountain
Page 108 Brambell's The Details
Page 108 Brambell's Finish Pictures on the Workbench
Page 108 A clean workbench
Page 109 Chippy Hollow Build Start
Page 110 Another Trestle Build
Page 111 More Pine Tree Production
Chippy Hollow Painting the wall castings
Page 112 Start of the Mt. Aiden Small Trestle
Page 112 Eagles Nest Hardware Build
Page 114 Track on the Mt. Aiden Trestle
Page 114 Chippy Hollow Build Progress
Page 115 Eagles Nest Warehouse Wall Castings
Page 116 Build Progress Eagles Nest Warehouse and Chippy Hollow
Page 117 Painting the Eagles Nest Warehouse Castings.
Page 118 Progress Report Small Trestle Build on Mt. Aiden.
Page 118 Layout Diagrams update
Page 119 Chippy Hollow Build update.
Page 120 Reusable Mold Material test.
Page 121 Trestle Build Progress.
Page 123 Final Pictures Mt. Aiden Trestle Build.
Page 124 Eagles Nest Warehouse Progress Report.
Page 126 Chippy Hollow Build Update
Page 128 Chippy Hollow Details
Page 128 Chippy Hollow become Walter P's
Page 129 The Staging Yard.
Page 130 The Control Panel Switch Panel.
Page 133 Eagles Next Warehouse - new paint and weathering.
Page 134 Start of the Jacob's Coal Build.
Page 136 Prototype Pictures from Greenfield Village
Page 137 Making room for the inside the mountain helix.
Page 138 Building the Helix.
Page 142 Making molds for plaster castings.
Page 143 More Aspen Trees
Page 146 Start of the C. C. Crow Stone Church Build
Page 147 Making room for the HOn3 Trestle
Page 148 Plans for the mountain top.
Page 148 Hidden Yard Build
Page 150 C. C. Crow Church Pictures
Page 153 Starting the HOn3 Trestle Builds
Page 155 Jacob's Coal Build Update
Page 157 Getting out the saw - more changes
Page 159 Using a Clay Mockups for design.
Page 162 The Start of the town of Sellios
Page 163 Sawmill placement.
Page 164 More on the Clay Mockup.
Page 167 Future Build Plans.
Page 169 The HOn3 Trestle Final Build Pictures.
Page 171 More Aspen Trees
Page 172 Moving on to Volume 2 of the S&S RR Build.
Updated index 4/10/17
bump - to keep the two volumes of the S&S RR on the same page.
I received an email asking why I quit updating this thread. This is volume one of my build thread and it's continued in volume two. At the recommendation of our administrator here on the forum we are starting new threads when we reach the 200 page mark. Here is the link to volume 2. Thanks for following along!
http://modelersforum.com/layout-tours/superior-seattle-railroad-build-(volume-2)-started-22517/
Updated index
Quote from: S&S RR on December 20, 2013, 10:27:49 PM
Index to Volume 1 of the Superior & Seattle Railroad Build Thread
Index to the thread Updated 3/21/17.
INDEX
Page 1 Changing forums - the benchwork
Page 2 Overview and Status in March of 2014
Page 3 A look back at the Benchwork and Paster work on the mountains,
Painting the Plaster work
The Photo Back Drops
Making Aspen Trees
Page 4 Making Pine Trees
Preparing the Talus Materials
Page 5 Prototype Photographs
Page 6 Prototype Photographs
Control Panel
Page 7 Layout Diagram "original plan"
Roundhouse Photographs
The Stone Roundhouse Build - start
Page 8 Stone Roundhouse Build - the walls
Page 9 Stone Roundhouse Build - the Roof
Page 10 Stone Roundhouse Build - Painting
Page 11 Laying more track
Planning the town of Sellios
Page 12 Testing track
Page 13 First Runs - lower track
Page 14 Benchwork and Town layout - Sellios
Page 15 Benchwork and Town layout - Sellios
Page 16 Track work in Sellios
Page 17 Planning Structure Placement - Sellios
Page 18 Logo for the Superior & Seattle Railroad
Page 19 Cedar Shingle Pine Tree armatures
Modeling in the Summer
Page 20 Roofing on the Stone Roundhouse
Page 21 Doors on the Stone Roundhouse
Page 22 More plaster work
Page 23 Installing the DCC System
Page 24 DCC System Discussion
Page 25 DCC System Installation
Page 26 DCC System Installation
Page 27 More track installation
Page 28 Track Testing
Page 29 Door production for the Stone Roundhouse
Page 30 Ballasting The Eagles Nest Yard
Page 31 Ballasting The Eagles Nest Yard
Page 32 Changes - moving mountains
Page 33 Adding some talus materials
Page 34 Stone Roundhouse Build - Tar Paper Roof
Page 35 Stone Roundhouse Build - Doors, Windows, Trim
Page 36 Planting Aspen Trees,
prototype pictures Aspen Trees
Page 37 Stone Roundhouse Build Trim, Front Stone Work
Pictures of Mountains with Fall Color
Page 38 The view through "Wayne's hole"
Page 39 Some overall room photographs of the layout
Page 40 Stone Roundhouse Build - Painting the trim
Page 41 Stone Roundhouse Build - Installing the Windows
Page 42 The A&I tube
Page 43 Stone Roundhouse Build - Painting the Roof
Page 44 Stone Roundhouse Build - Final pictures on the workbench
Stone Roundhouse Build - Moving and installing on the layout
Page 45 Stone Roundhouse Build - Installation pictures
Page 46 Discussion of storage on the benchwork
Page 47 New - flex shaft rotary tool
Page 48 The Eagles Nest Yard
Page 49 Kit discussion
Page 50 Scenery on Mt. Aiden
Page 51 Mt. Aiden Trestle Build - bents
Page 52 Testing coloring for the Trestle
Page 53 Start of scenery on Mt. Aiden
Page 54 Progress pictures scenery on Mt. Aiden
Page 55 Surveying for the Trestle
Stripwood for the Mt. Aiden Trestle
Casting the footings for the Mt. Aiden Trestle
Page 56 Changes in the Mountains
Page 57 Coloring the trestle footings
Page 58 Mt. Aiden Scenery progress pictures
Page 59 Setting the footings for the Mt. Aiden Trestle
Page 60 Mt. Aiden Trestle Build first Bents
Page 61 Staining Stripwood
Page 62 Mt. Aiden Trestle Build
Page 63 Mt. Aiden Trestle Build
Page 64 Trestle Build progress pictures
Page 65 Trestle Build progress pictures
Page 66 Painting Bolt Castings
Page 67 Installing Bolt Castings - Mt. Aiden Trestle
Page 68 Cutting more strip wood
Dealing with impatient forum members
Page 69 Adding retaining walls
Page 70 Trestle Build progress pictures
Page 71 Counting nut and bolt castings
Page 72 Mt. Aiden Trestle - the finishing process
Page 73 Adding Scenery to Mt. Aiden
Page 74 Building retaining wall for Mt. Aiden
Pine Tree Production
Page 75 Dead Pine Trees
Page 75 The Brambell's Build Start - What's in the box
Page 76 Brambell's - Site preparation on the Layout
Page 77 Brambell's - Making Extra Castings
Page 78 Brambell's - Changing the site plan to fit my location on the layout.
Page 79 Brambell's - Making Molds
Page 80 Brambell's - Painting the castings
Page 81 Brambell's - Preparing the background scenery
Page 82 FSM Sawmill reconditioning for the S&S RR.
Page 83 Brambell's - Fitting castings to my site.
Page 84 Brambell's - Castings - lessons learned
Page 85 Brambell's - Painting the castings
Page 86 Brambell's - Testing the base with castings on the layout
Page 87 Brambell's - Detail castings - preparation for painting
Brambell's - The warehouse walls
Page 88 New Tools
Page 89 Brambell's - Warehouse Assembly
Page 90 Brambell's - Painting the detail castings
Brambell's - The wood retaining wall
Page 91 Brambell's - More Warehouse Assembly
Page 92 Brambell's - adding detail castings
Page 93 Brambell's - Warehouse Roof Construction
Page 94 Brambell's - Adding the Hoist House
Brambell's - Adding the back deck
Brambell's - A test fit on the layout
Page 95 Brambell's - Adding the ground cover
Page 96 Brambell's - Adding the Warehouse back shed
Page 97 Brambell's - More details
Page 98 Brambell's - Building the front deck
Page 99 Brambell's - Building the Trestle
Page 100 Brambell's - The cement wall
Brambell's - The Trestle Deck
Page 101 Updating the index
Page 102 Brambell's - Rail Siding and Dock
Adding more trees
Page 103 Brambell's Front Office
Page 104 Brambell's Scale and Scale House
Page 105 Brambell's Adding Dirt
Brambell's Test Plant on Layout
Page 106 Changes, Dad's, and the old layout
Page 107 Working in the Mountain
Page 108 Brambell's The Details
Page 108 Brambell's Finish Pictures on the Workbench
Page 108 A clean workbench
Page 109 Chippy Hollow Build Start
Page 110 Another Trestle Build
Page 111 More Pine Tree Production
Chippy Hollow Painting the wall castings
Page 112 Start of the Mt. Aiden Small Trestle
Page 112 Eagles Nest Hardware Build
Page 114 Track on the Mt. Aiden Trestle
Page 114 Chippy Hollow Build Progress
Page 115 Eagles Nest Warehouse Wall Castings
Page 116 Build Progress Eagles Nest Warehouse and Chippy Hollow
Page 117 Painting the Eagles Nest Warehouse Castings.
Page 118 Progress Report Small Trestle Build on Mt. Aiden.
Page 118 Layout Diagrams update
Page 119 Chippy Hollow Build update.
Page 120 Reusable Mold Material test.
Page 121 Trestle Build Progress.
Page 123 Final Pictures Mt. Aiden Trestle Build.
Page 124 Eagles Nest Warehouse Progress Report.
Page 126 Chippy Hollow Build Update
Page 128 Chippy Hollow Details
Page 128 Chippy Hollow become Walter P's
Page 129 The Staging Yard.
Page 130 The Control Panel Switch Panel.
Page 133 Eagles Next Warehouse - new paint and weathering.
Page 134 Start of the Jacob's Coal Build.
Page 136 Prototype Pictures from Greenfield Village
Page 137 Making room for the inside the mountain helix.
Page 138 Building the Helix.
Page 142 Making molds for plaster castings.
Page 143 More Aspen Trees
Page 146 Start of the C. C. Crow Stone Church Build
Page 147 Making room for the HOn3 Trestle
Page 148 Plans for the mountain top.
Page 148 Hidden Yard Build
Page 150 C. C. Crow Church Pictures
Page 153 Starting the HOn3 Trestle Builds
Page 155 Jacob's Coal Build Update
Page 157 Getting out the saw - more changes
Page 159 Using a Clay Mockups for design.
Page 162 The Start of the town of Sellios
Page 163 Sawmill placement.
Page 164 More on the Clay Mockup.
Page 167 Future Build Plans.
Page 169 The HOn3 Trestle Final Build Pictures.
Page 171 More Aspen Trees
Page 172 Moving on to Volume 2 of the S&S RR Build.
Page 172 See page 1 of Volume 2
Updated index.
April 1, 2018: Made some changes to the introduction of this build thread and updated the index. The volume 2 thread is now at 100 pages.
Original Build Thread: Lost in the internet.
Volume 1: 12/20/2013 - 2/25/17
Volume 2: 2/25/17 - Present.
http://modelersforum.com/layout-tours/superior-seattle-railroad-build-(volume-2)-started-22517/
Updating Index to include volume 2.
Updated index to include Volume 2 : work in progress.
Quote from: S&S RR on December 20, 2013, 10:42:50 PM
Update Index to Volume 2
3/4/19
Volume 2
Vol 2. Page 1 Adding trees to the mountains.
Vol 2. Page 2 Using a Mortar & Pestle to create fine sand.
Vol 2. Page 3 Mountain Surgery
Vol 2. Page 4 Clay mockup of Phase III.
Vol 2. Page 5 Phase III Expansion
Vol 2. Page 6 Straightening the curves
Vol 2. Page 7 New Pine Trees
Vol 2. Page 8 Phase III track work
Vol 2. Page 9 More Aspen Trees
Vol 2. Page 10 Making Aspen Trees
Vol 2. Page 12 New Crew member
Vol 2. Page 14 Test planting of Aspen Trees
Vol 2. Page 16 Test running the trains
Vol 2. Page 17 Helix build
Vol 2. Page 18 The HOn3 Branchline
Vol 2. Page 19 New HOn3 Locomotive
Vol 2. Page 20 Using my iPad to design the scenery
Vol 2. Page 21 Start of the Mackenzie Milling Build
Vol 2. Page 27 Start of the Isaac's Coal Build
Vol 2. Page 33 Running trains with the expanded crew
Vol 2. Page 35 Continued work on Mackenzie Mill and Isaac's Coal
Vol 2. Page 44 Adding another layer of scenery with some new Pine Trees
Vol 2. Page 53 Isaac's Coal test plant
Vol 2. Page 54 Mackenzie Mill Build continued
Vol 2. Page 55 Locomotive Works build initial planning
Vol 2. Page 56 Isaac's Coal detailing
Vol 2. Page 58 Isaac's Coal on the layout
Vol 2. Page 59 Mackenzie's Mill detailing
Vol 2. Page 60 Clean workbenches
Vol 2. Page 61 Locomotive Works starting the build
Vol 2. Page 63 Future build planning
Vol 2. Page 66 Locomotive Works Roof mockup
Vol 2. Page 68 Locomotive Works Building the walls
Vol 2. Page 70 Painting Detail Castings
Vol 2. Page 73 Locomotive Works the layout site
Vol 2. Page 74 Locomotive Works painting the wall castings
Vol 2. Page 75 Locomotive Works starting the interior details
Vol 2. Page 77 Locomotive Works coloring the wall castings
Vol 2. Page 79 Locomotive Works the roof construction
Vol 2. Page 80 Monster Model Works brick tower
Vol 2. Page 82 Locomotive Works Inspection Pits
Vol 2. Page 83 Locomotive Works Brick Floor
Vol 2. Page 86 Locomotive Works Roof test fit
Vol 2. Page 87 Locomotive Works Overhead Crane installation
Vol 2. Page 90 Locomotive Works more interior details
Vol 2. Page 95 Mackenzie's Mill back on the details
Vol 2. Page 96 Locomotive Works interior lighting
Vol 2. Page 97 Locomotive Works coloring the metal roofing
Vol 2. Page 99 Locomotive Works more interior details
Vol 2. Page 102 Locomotive Works starting the exterior details
Vol 2. Page 103 More lighting for the layout
Vol 2. Page 105 Mackenzie's Mill Pond
Vol 2. Page 107 Planting more trees on the layout
Vol 2. Page 108 Using a mortar and pestle for grinding dirt fine
Vol 2. Page 110 Locomotive Works LED lighting
Vol 2. Page 112 Locomotive Works interior lighting test
Vol 2. Page 115 Layout Expansion
Vol 2. Page 117 More Aspen Trees on the layout
Vol 2. Page 118 Start of the Threadwell's build
Vol 2. Page 120 Threadwell's site planning
Vol 2. Page 123 Ipad mockup of the Threadwell site plan
Vol 2. Page 124 New resin walls for the build
Vol 2. Page 125 Starting the build on the workbench
Vol 2. Page 126 New pictures of the finished area of the layout
Vol 2. Page 128 More Details for the Locomotive Works build
Vol 2. Page 131 New Engineer on the S&S RR
Vol 2. Page 133 First structure build for my Grandson
Vol 2. Page 136 Expansion Plans for the S&S RR
Vol 2. Page 137 LED lighting for the Threadwell build
Vol 2. Page 138 Adding water to the Threadwell build
Vol 2. Page 140 Threadwell build moved to the layout
Vol 2. Page 141 More Trees
Vol 2. Page 142 Sewall's build start
Vol 2. Page 143 Adding the signs to the Locomotive Works
Vol 2. Page 144 Threadwell build photographs after adding the scenery
Vol 2. Page 146 More layout pictures
Vol 2. Page 148 Design plans discussion
Vol 2. Page 149 Baseboard for Sewall's and Fox Run builds
Vol 2. Page 150 Finishing the turntable area in front of the Stone Roundhouse
Vol 2. Page 152 First locomotives on the turntable
Index Updated 6/22/19.
INDEX
Volume 1
See post above on page 1
Volume 2
Vol 2. Page 1 Adding trees to the mountains.
Vol 2. Page 2 Using a Mortar & Pestle to create fine sand.
Vol 2. Page 3 Mountain Surgery
Vol 2. Page 4 Clay mockup of Phase III.
Vol 2. Page 5 Phase III Expansion
Vol 2. Page 6 Straightening the curves
Vol 2. Page 7 New Pine Trees
Vol 2. Page 8 Phase III track work
Vol 2. Page 9 More Aspen Trees
Vol 2. Page 10 Making Aspen Trees
Vol 2. Page 12 New Crew member
Vol 2. Page 14 Test planting of Aspen Trees
Vol 2. Page 16 Test running the trains
Vol 2. Page 17 Helix build
Vol 2. Page 18 The HOn3 Branchline
Vol 2. Page 19 New HOn3 Locomotive
Vol 2. Page 20 Using my iPad to design the scenery
Vol 2. Page 21 Start of the Mackenzie Milling Build
Vol 2. Page 27 Start of the Isaac's Coal Build
Vol 2. Page 33 Running trains with the expanded crew
Vol 2. Page 35 Continued work on Mackenzie Mill and Isaac's Coal
Vol 2. Page 44 Adding another layer of scenery with some new Pine Trees
Vol 2. Page 53 Isaac's Coal test plant
Vol 2. Page 54 Mackenzie Mill Build continued
Vol 2. Page 55 Locomotive Works build initial planning
Vol 2. Page 56 Isaac's Coal detailing
Vol 2. Page 58 Isaac's Coal on the layout
Vol 2. Page 59 Mackenzie's Mill detailing
Vol 2. Page 60 Clean workbenches
Vol 2. Page 61 Locomotive Works starting the build
Vol 2. Page 63 Future build planning
Vol 2. Page 66 Locomotive Works Roof mockup
Vol 2. Page 68 Locomotive Works Building the walls
Vol 2. Page 70 Painting Detail Castings
Vol 2. Page 73 Locomotive Works the layout site
Vol 2. Page 74 Locomotive Works painting the wall castings
Vol 2. Page 75 Locomotive Works starting the interior details
Vol 2. Page 77 Locomotive Works coloring the wall castings
Vol 2. Page 79 Locomotive Works the roof construction
Vol 2. Page 80 Monster Model Works brick tower
Vol 2. Page 82 Locomotive Works Inspection Pits
Vol 2. Page 83 Locomotive Works Brick Floor
Vol 2. Page 86 Locomotive Works Roof test fit
Vol 2. Page 87 Locomotive Works Overhead Crane installation
Vol 2. Page 90 Locomotive Works more interior details
Vol 2. Page 95 Mackenzie's Mill back on the details
Vol 2. Page 96 Locomotive Works interior lighting
Vol 2. Page 97 Locomotive Works coloring the metal roofing
Vol 2. Page 99 Locomotive Works more interior details
Vol 2. Page 102 Locomotive Works starting the exterior details
Vol 2. Page 103 More lighting for the layout
Vol 2. Page 105 Mackenzie's Mill Pond
Vol 2. Page 107 Planting more trees on the layout
Vol 2. Page 108 Using a mortar and pestle for grinding dirt fine
Vol 2. Page 110 Locomotive Works LED lighting
Vol 2. Page 112 Locomotive Works interior lighting test
Vol 2. Page 115 Layout Expansion
Vol 2. Page 117 More Aspen Trees on the layout
Vol 2. Page 118 Start of the Threadwell's build
Vol 2. Page 120 Threadwell's site planning
Vol 2. Page 123 Ipad mockup of the Threadwell site plan
Vol 2. Page 124 New resin walls for the build
Vol 2. Page 125 Starting the build on the workbench
Vol 2. Page 126 New pictures of the finished area of the layout
Vol 2. Page 128 More Details for the Locomotive Works build
Vol 2. Page 131 New Engineer on the S&S RR
Vol 2. Page 133 First structure build for my Grandson
Vol 2. Page 136 Expansion Plans for the S&S RR
Vol 2. Page 137 LED lighting for the Threadwell build
Vol 2. Page 138 Adding water to the Threadwell build
Vol 2. Page 140 Threadwell build moved to the layout
Vol 2. Page 141 More Trees
Vol 2. Page 142 Sewall's build start
Vol 2. Page 143 Adding the signs to the Locomotive Works
Vol 2. Page 144 Threadwell build photographs after adding the scenery
Vol 2. Page 146 More layout pictures
Vol 2. Page 148 Design plans discussion
Vol 2. Page 149 Baseboard for Sewall's and Fox Run builds
Vol 2. Page 150 Finishing the turntable area in front of the Stone Roundhouse
Vol 2. Page 152 First locomotives on the Eagles Nest turntable
Vol 2. Page 153 Scenery work around the Stone Roundhouse
Vol 2. Page 154 Draft Layout diagrams for the Phase IV Expansion
Vol 2. Page 155 Servo Turnout Controls
Vol 2. Page 156 The Phase IV Expansion begins
Vol 2. Page 157 Moving furniture and the Phase IV base cabinets
Vol 2. Page 158 Design Changes for the Superior Yard
Vol 2. Page 159 Phase IV construction - the helix
Vol 2. Page 161 Walter P. visits the S&S RR
Vol 2. Page 163 Workshop Expansion
Vol 2. Page 164 Benchwork on the Phase IV expansion
Vol 2. Page 165 The table top of the lower level of the the Phase IV expansion
Vol 2. Page 166 Using lasers to keep the track straight
Vol 2. Page 167 The Phase IV track work begins
Vol 2. Page 169 Design Changes
Vol 2. Page 170 Control Panel Build
Vol 2. Page 172 The North Yard Construction
Vol 2. Page 174 Control Panel Construction for Phase IV
Tonight, I'm starting Volume 3 of this thread. From now on I will only include the index for each volume on page 1 of that thread. I can't include the index for the first two volumes and just continue adding on because I hit the character limit for a post.
Link to Volume 3.
http://www.modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=4531.0
Link to volume 1:
http://modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=2650.msg136832#msg136832
Updated index on page 1.
Link to Volume 2:
http://www.modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=2650.0 (http://www.modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=2650.0)
Link to Volume 3:
http://modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=4531.0 (http://modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=4531.0)
Link to Volume 4:
http://modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=5946.msg163250;topicseen#new
All new posts are in Volume 4.