FSM Fox Run Milling - scratch/kit bash

Started by ACL1504, September 02, 2019, 05:50:34 PM

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ACL1504

One of the things I've been doing on my scratch builds is to keep a blank/plug for a door or window I cut out. It's a lot easier to trace these on the backs of walls as opposed to tracing around a small plastic window.



Since I needed to remove the top portion of the large door blank, I made another one to replace it.



Next up is the bracing and painting.

"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

Mark Dalrymple

Nice kit to be scratch-building, Tom.  I always thought a river to the left where the land drops down (in the original) would look good.

How does the changing of the doors impact on the other openings in the other walls?  You haven't just dropped the doors, you have lowered the floor by nearly two feet.  How does a 5'10" LBP look standing on the new height of the floor looking out that window?  I've been thinking about this as you have been discussing centralizing the windows as they would be if central in four identical sized rooms - what about the vertical heights?  This, to me, is always so much more difficult to work out.  How high above the ground is the floor?  How high are the ceilings?  Does every floor have the same height ceiling or are they different?  What is the thickness between the floors?  Does the top floor have pitched rafters or does it have trusses?  And then there is the question of window and door sizes and the correct height they should all be above floor level (which also varies greatly depending on the use of the internal room).  I'm not after answers here - I can work it out - but then I've done a lot of building in my life.  I think it is, however, a bit of a mystery to many.  Does anyone know of a good source of information on such details?

As always, enjoying your modelling!

Cheers, Mark.


ACL1504

Quote from: mark dalrymple on September 06, 2019, 06:55:19 PM
Nice kit to be scratch-building, Tom.  I always thought a river to the left where the land drops down (in the original) would look good.

How does the changing of the doors impact on the other openings in the other walls?  You haven't just dropped the doors, you have lowered the floor by nearly two feet.  How does a 5'10" LBP look standing on the new height of the floor looking out that window?  I've been thinking about this as you have been discussing centralizing the windows as they would be if central in four identical sized rooms - what about the vertical heights?  This, to me, is always so much more difficult to work out.  How high above the ground is the floor?  How high are the ceilings?  Does every floor have the same height ceiling or are they different?  What is the thickness between the floors?  Does the top floor have pitched rafters or does it have trusses?  And then there is the question of window and door sizes and the correct height they should all be above floor level (which also varies greatly depending on the use of the internal room).  I'm not after answers here - I can work it out - but then I've done a lot of building in my life.  I think it is, however, a bit of a mystery to many.  Does anyone know of a good source of information on such details?

As always, enjoying your modelling!

Cheers, Mark.


Mark,

Great question and observation.

Lowering the floors was a consideration prior to doing so. It doesn't affect the rest of the windows to the point of noticing. The windows on all four walls are the same height from the bottom.

My career as a LEO gave me the opportunity to be in many old building, warehousing and some old local factories long since abandoned. One thing I remember was the floor height varied as much as each building. However, each building had pretty much the same window height from the ground on all four walls for that particular structure.




The figure in the photos below is a scale 6' tall.

As always, thank you for following along.





"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

ACL1504

The bracing on one of the walls interfered with the view of the opening.



No problem, I used a #17 blade to cut the top and bottom and then made a vertical cut to remove the offending brace.



Continued -
"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

ACL1504

"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

Jerry

Tom that's a really nice start.  I'll be following along.


Jerry


"And in the end, it's not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years." A. Lincoln

ACL1504




I've done so many builds that I often don't think of some tricks I use are common to the hobby.

When bracing walls, glue often oozes out. If left to dry, this could interfere with the squareness of the walls when gluing them at the 90 degree angle.

I take a scale piece of lumber, in this case a 10X10 and cut one end at an angle. The angle should give you a fairly sharp point.



More in a few.
"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

ACL1504

Quote from: Jerry on September 09, 2019, 05:14:48 PM
Tom that's a really nice start.  I'll be following along.


Jerry


Jerry,

Thank you, always happy to have you along on my adventures.

Tom ;D
"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

ACL1504

As the glue is setting, I run the 10X10 along the glue line and remove any excess glue oozing out.






Once the glue is dry, it's not impossible to remove, but it is difficult.

More in a few.

"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

ACL1504

To keep the glue removal stick clean, I just cut off a section above the removed glue.





More in a few.
"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

ACL1504

Here's another trick I use for perfect fitting walls.

On the walls where the bracing is flush with a wall section, there may be some excess glue there as well.

I take the wall section and some 160 grit sandpaper, and gently sand the wall/brace edge using a back and forth motion.





Continued -
"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

ACL1504

In the photo below you can see the difference the sanding makes.

The sanded wall section is on the top. You can see the dried glue residue on the wall section on the bottom.

"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

ACL1504

"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

jerryrbeach

Tom,

As usual, I love your build threads.  I always pick up a tip or two by following along.  I have always used an emery board to remove any excess glue that squeezed out from wall bracing.  Not sure why I never thought to use a large sheet of sandpaper, that definitely looks easier.  From now on...

I thought I'd add my two cents to Mark's comments about floor levels.  I have been inside a great many older commercial and industrial buildings in the northeast.  A great many have raised wood floors (dock level), something that is pretty apparent in the building in this thread.  After the first floor, lots of factors play into the height of higher floors, especially in a wood frame structure.  What I am trying to say is that even though you did not explain why you chose the window heights, when I looked at the locations it was apparent to me they made perfect sense height-wise.
Jerry

ReadingBob

This build is coming along great!  Well documented too.   :)
Bob Butts
robertbutts1@att.net

There's a fine line between Hobby and Mental Illness.

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