Scratchbuilt loco and car Shed in HO, no prototype.

Started by adm.nelson, December 17, 2017, 04:56:03 PM

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adm.nelson

Quote from: deemery on December 30, 2017, 05:29:39 PM
Did you include a drain for the water to escape in your inspection pit? 


(With work this good, you have to really dig to find something to ask! :-) )


dave

Ha ha ha, a drain....hmmm, lets see, oh yes, I did. See the first picture I posted up there from December 18, it's on the r/h side.



deemery

Quote from: adm.nelson on December 31, 2017, 06:19:38 AM
Quote from: deemery on December 30, 2017, 05:29:39 PM
Did you include a drain for the water to escape in your inspection pit? 

(With work this good, you have to really dig to find something to ask! :-) )

dave

Ha ha ha, a drain....hmmm, lets see, oh yes, I did. See the first picture I posted up there from December 18, it's on the r/h side.
Yup, went back and found it! 


dave
Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

adm.nelson


adm.nelson

Quote from: deemery on December 31, 2017, 06:48:20 PM
Quote from: adm.nelson on December 31, 2017, 06:19:38 AM
Quote from: deemery on December 30, 2017, 05:29:39 PM
Did you include a drain for the water to escape in your inspection pit? 

(With work this good, you have to really dig to find something to ask! :-) )

dave

Super. :)

And while I'm here, happy new year to everyone. Lets hope we have a great one.

Tony
Ha ha ha, a drain....hmmm, lets see, oh yes, I did. See the first picture I posted up there from December 18, it's on the r/h side.
Yup, went back and found it! 


dave

adm.nelson

Hey guys. I know it's been a long time for an update. Been busy doing a couple of "challenges" for another group, but I am back into doing the shed. The caboose from AMB models was one of them. Besides, sometimes it feels good to get away for a while. I am happy to say, and somewhat relieved, I have all the doors on, but I chose only to make the 'car shed' side operable. Still, it took a lot of work. At this point, I have the walls and preliminary scenery down. I added the basic scenery prior to adding the walls. More to follow shortly.

adm.nelson


tct855

Tony,
I never tire of looking over your shoulder on this build. Absolutely awesome craftsmanship here every step of the way.  Like PRR Modeler & my deep voice friend said, Impressive!  Thanx Thom...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uvUL28Skt6E

adm.nelson

Quote from: tct855 on April 13, 2018, 09:34:08 AM
Tony,
I never tire of looking over your shoulder on this build. Absolutely awesome craftsmanship here every step of the way.  Like PRR Modeler & my deep voice friend said, Impressive!  Thanx Thom...


Thank you Thom.  :)

PRR Modeler

Curt Webb
The Late Great Pennsylvania Railroad
Freelanced PRR Bellevue Subdivision

adm.nelson


deemery

Nice job on Quaker Oats.  One suggestion:  take whatever you're using for weathering (paint, chalk, etc) and brush upwards from the bottom of the car.  Do this on both sides and particularly on the ends, to reflect the dirt kicked up as the car is moving.


dave
Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

Lynnb

Hi Tony , great build with loads of character. Stepping back a bit, I'm curious what you did to achieve the look of the boards on the walls, the greenish one's? Is it the Rembrandt/alcohol technique?
Thanks
Ontario, Canada
The Great White North

My Layout Venture-> https://modelersforum.com/index.php?topic=6003.0

adm.nelson

Dave, Thank you. Actually, I can't take credit for the car, my wife bought it for me for my birthday some years back when she spotted this and one other in a hobby shop. Imagine that, my wife going to a hobby shop to shop for her husband; hardly ever heard of. But it happened once. So, although I agree with you, I'm reluctant to improve on the model. And it has been a favorite of mine ever since. But I might take that under consideration.

Lynn, thank you, and yes, pretty much what you said. I love their soft pastels, and have been using them almost exclusively for a couple of years now. Most of the time, I just dip my brush directly into the powder and brush it where I want it. The floor was done entirely of their pastels after a coating of india ink/alcohol wash. I keep my pastels I use most often in a parts bin for easy access. Once in a while, I will use water or alcohol to 'paint' the color over a larger area, or for a deeper saturation, but mostly the light weathering, I go on dry. I also have a larger parts bin for the weathering powders from Dr. Bens collection (second photo). Very easy to get to what I want at any time.

If your referring to the actual green, that was done over stripwood that was soaked in A/I, and then I used a technique I learned from Brett Gallant at Sierra West Scale models. That is to paint down some pastels with A/I then come back and paint on a resist, like mineral spirits, and before it dries completely, paint on the green (I go light on the paint, you don't want to saturate it), then use clear scotch tape to remove some of the paint. Leaves a weathered and worn look. I found that even after it has dried, it Is still possible to remove some paint with tape.  Then I follow up with additional powders to simulate blown up dirt from rain and soot from loco's. And just plain ol' light dusting from what ever blows that way.

I hope that answered your question. Thanks for asking.

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