FOS Bandits Roost

Started by Opa George, October 14, 2019, 08:05:32 PM

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GPdemayo

I'll be in the 2nd row with Bob & Jim watching this massive kit build George..... :)


Hope they haven't eaten all the popcorn..... :o
Gregory P. DeMayo
General Construction Superintendent Emeritus
St. Louis & Denver Railroad
Longwood, FL

Dave K.


Dennis Bourey

Dennis Bourey
dpbourey@comcast.net

Lake's Region RR
(Happy Modeling)

Opa George

Welcome and happy to have you, John and Greg. A bit of a popcorn scuffle developing. I may have to order in some snacks.

This  is the end of my layout where both Bandits Roost and the Rust Rock Falls kits will live, once installed.  It is roughly six by four feet, double-tracked on the bottom (the outside third track is a siding) and single tracked on the top return loop.


Here is the same real estate from the opposite side (my layout is a walk-around).  All of the structures are movable--just sitting in place for now.  Most of the area is bare plywood. As both of the super kits feature water (canal, stream, waterfalls) and the bottom return loops are "in the way," I am planning on super elevating the new kits and run the return loops underneath. 


There is a nice deep corner, more than 18 inches deep, that will accommodate the really dramatic waterfall of Rust Rock Falls.

Anyway, that is the plan.  Next post will be back to actual kit construction.
--George

Opa George

I vary only slightly from the kit instructions by distressing the walls before bracing.  I like to have them very flat to better line up on the cutting mat grid.  My order of distressing is:  ponce wheel for nail holes, followed by brushing with a file card to provide subtle wood grain, then heavier brushing with a welding brush, and finally lifting of boards using a razor knife (fresh blade, please!).


I apply the heaviest graining around the edges, near the roof peaks and in corners. The wall below will have the bottom half covered by the adjoining wall of the burger joint, so I did not spend any time working on the bottom half.  (Apologies for the terribly overexposed photos--should not have used the flash)


All of the paint shop walls are braced and clamped with clothes pins to dry overnight. Tomorrow I will use a base of A&I and add paint.


I used one fifth of the supplied 1/8th square bracing just on these four walls.  I think even judicious use of the supplied bracing will come up short.  Luckily I picked up an extra supply of that size at the craft store, so be aware you will need more.
Below is the foundation of the burger joint, with bracing aligned behind the scribe line to accommodate the walls.


All for this evening! Have a great night. (I'll improve my photography for next installment). :)
--George

jerryrbeach

George,

Your location and plan should work out very well and do a great job of showcasing these beautiful kits.  Looks like you're off to a good start.  I find almost every kit I build requires more bracing that what is supplied with the kit.  Of course, I am pretty obsessive about using lots of bracing.  IMO better too much than too little!  Really glad I have a front row seat for this thread.
Jerry

Mark Dalrymple

I'll be watching.

I got a bit super excited with the idea of exaggerating the slope a bit, saw a potential change straight away and had to do a quick sketch to see how it would look.  Its a bit more work but food for thought.  Please feel free to delete at your leisure.

Cheers, Mark.


Opa George

Quote from: mark dalrymple on October 16, 2019, 12:10:24 AM
I'll be watching.

I got a bit super excited with the idea of exaggerating the slope a bit, saw a potential change straight away and had to do a quick sketch to see how it would look.  Its a bit more work but food for thought.  Please feel free to delete at your leisure.

Cheers, Mark.

Mark, Thanks! That sketch is exactly what I had in mind.  Below is a photo from Doug's website and I think it clearly shows how easily I could do that.  I like it!


In the instruction book, he shows a diagram of his foam base. It shows only a 1.5 inch rise. His photos make that look more dramatic, but I am inclined to go for double that to increase the dramatic impact.
Thanks!
George

Jerry

George yur off to a fine start!!


Jerry
"And in the end, it's not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years." A. Lincoln

Mark Dalrymple

Looking forward to it, George. 

Its nice to make some little changes here and there to make it a little different from the original.  I'm not surprised you saw the same thing as me - it kind of jumps out at you when you start thinking about exaggerating the gradient.  Oh - I love the kit you're getting for Christmas - so much drama!

Cheers, Mark.

Opa George

Mark, indeed I can't wait to get to that one, but of course will...must. 
Today I gave the Vallon Paint walls and strip wood trim a coat of A & I, and when thoroughly dry, a sponged coat of white paint. Below are the walls with the A & I. The darkest wall (lower left) is the one that will be in the shadows of the alley, least bleached by the sun and heavily mildewed. It is a stark difference here, will be a subtle effect under the paint.


Strip wood in many kits is stained on the end to help identify it quickly. That is handy, but there is a danger.  A good example of why you should not use the stained end on any visible areas is shown below.  After a coat of A & I, they bled into the newspaper wherever they touched.


The Vallon Paint walls with a white top coat. I sponge painted cheap craft store acrylic paint, using a synthetic sponge saved from packing materials.  I really like this particular white paint because it is thick and dries super flat with a distinct texture from its high viscosity that looks like aged paint. After it is completely dry I will clean up the lines between boards where the thick paint filled in any desirable detail.


Not shown, I put a coat of gray primer on the plastic window castings using Rustoleum rattle can primer. They are still curing as I type this.

Cheers!
George

PRR Modeler

Curt Webb
The Late Great Pennsylvania Railroad
Freelanced PRR Bellevue Subdivision

deemery

It's worth ordering 1/8" square wood in bulk for bracing wood and even styrene structures (I get mine from Mt Albert).  You can't be too strong, have too many clamps, or use too much bracing :-)


dave
Modeling the Northeast in the 1890s - because the little voices told me to

rpdylan

looking good George, appreciate the time you are taking by posting photos, ect.  When it comes to stripwood, I like to separate them and label what they are.... once I stain them, the color on the ends can disappear!
   That is a nice shade of white that you are using
   
Bob C.

ACL1504

George,

I'm late to the party but following closely. Great start. This is one of the kits I wanted to get but just didn't have room in the stash pile or on the layout. :'(

Tom ;D
"If we are to guard against ignorance and remain free, it is the responsibility of every American to be informed."
Thomas Jefferson

Tom Langford
telsr1@aol.com

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