Micro-Scale Models The Corner Gas and Oil

[dick green]

I'm a fan of the envelope trick for roof ridges

Dick

[Oldguy]

I'm a fan of the envelope trick for roof ridges

Dick

I agree that it looks/sounds promising.  Since this is my first 3-tab roof, I haven't done any type of cap shingles.  For me the biggest hurdle is coloring the envelope material to match the shingles. 

I have a handful of depots to build and all take 3-tab shingles.  So I need both the installation practice and whatever short cuts that I can find.

[Oldguy]

I took some time to better document the installation of 3-tab shingles.
Critical item - one must have some parallel alignment lines that are also parallel with the roof bottom edge. I used what was printed, but went back and checked to ensure that the bottom edge was true.
I am a big fan of open roof valleys as opposed to closed or interwoven valleys.  I use plain paper cut 18" wide.  I used a set of dividers set at 9".  I draw a line the middle and use that as a fold line.  Assuming that the valley flashing is indeed in the valley, then I eyeball points halfway from the middle to the paper edge and draw two sets of lines that serve as a stop for the shingles on either side.  Once painted, these lines become faint, but usable.

The shingles set that I use (RSLaserkits) include a starter strip.  This gets installed first.  Then the first shingle row goes over it, both edges even with the roof sheet.  For the roof that slopes into the valley,, I place the upper corner on the mid-line.  Then it is just a matter of starting at the valley with a half-shingle, followed by a full, half, full, etc.  I wait until I get a bunch of rows done (no more that 3/4 of the length of a single edge razor blade) and trim off the excess in the valley.
With a bit of judicious trimming, one can use shorter pieces to save material.  You can see such a splice in the upper left of the last row. So far, this roof deck has three such splices and they are all pretty much invisible.

On the straight roof ridges, I added a last row with the tabs just below the peak.  When the excess is cut off, the ridge caps will still show the individual tabs.  The third photo shows the last row, before the excess is removed.
For straight valley roof sections, I also started at the valley and trimmed at the ridge.  Again, when decided where to make a cut, plan on what is needed for the next row.  So some cuts are made for a fill tab or half a tab.  IN the last photo, I have trimmed the lower shingles while the upper set will be done tomorrow.
If one really wanted to get into it. Some roofers will splay out the shingle spacing in the valley, going narrower as they moved up.  Makes sense as more water will have to be handled the further down the roof one goes. 

[Oldguy]

To make the ridge shingles, I used the strip that was the same width of a shingle tab.  It's about 12" wide.  I then drew a line down the middle.  The sole purpose of the line is aiding in folding a cap piece.  I bent the strip along the edge of the metal ruler.  Yes, it would have been easier to use the envelope end, but it would have been the wrong color.  After folding, it was a matter of using my Chopper to cut the strip into pieces as long as the 3-tab shingle is deep.  Finished pieces were placed in a container as it doesn't take much air movement for these little suckers to go flying.  I used Elmers Glue in a small squeeze bottle to glue the cap shingles down.  About every couple of inches, I used a metal ruler to ensure that the caps are as straight as possible.
No I fully understand why there aren't more 3-tab roofs on model buildings.  And in hindsight, I wound up with too much reveal on the ridge caps.

[jerryrbeach]

Bob,

WOW!  Those cap shingles look great! 

[Opa George]

I certainly agree--great job on the cap shingles. I haven't gone to that degree of detail on any of my builds, yet, but will have to give it a try.  If I can get it half as nice as you did, I'll be happy.
--George

[postalkarl]

Hey Old Guy:

Hmmm white glue to apply your shingles. I never do that I use 3m ##4659007053 double faced adhesive. No glue and the time you save is amazing. I also use it for other thing. Especially to apply my signs with. Glad to see you are using cap shingles. It's the only way to fly.

Karl

[ACL1504]

Bob,
Great job on the shingles. I always cut and use ridge cap shingles on my builds. It looks so much more professional rather than just using a solid strip down the ridge.

Also, I use the double sided tape or Elmer's Glue Stick. Apply the glue stick to the roof panel and then add the shingles. No fuss, no mess.

Tom

[Oldguy]

Thanks guys.
My desire for prototype accuracy certainly out paces my skill set.
I would have loved to use double sided or even transfer tape, but my fingers are not that steady anymore.  So I need to fuss with the placement.  That and keep a damp flat brush close by to swab up excess glue.  I find that I can tolerate the taste of Elmers, but Weldbond is nasty.

[jerryrbeach]

Thanks guys.
My desire for prototype accuracy certainly out paces my skill set.
I would have loved to use double sided or even transfer tape, but my fingers are not that steady anymore.  So I need to fuss with the placement.  That and keep a damp flat brush close by to swab up excess glue.  I find that I can tolerate the taste of Elmers, but Weldbond is nasty.

Bob,

Good to know.  I won't try tasting Weldbond any time soon. 

[GPdemayo]

The hip & ridge shingles and the valleys look great.....well done Bob. 

[Oldguy]

I couldn't use the gas station signs that came with the kit since Signal never got to the Midwest in the 50's.   But I do have several options from JL Innovative Designs.  I chose the Mobil signs as the kit roof sign had a round portion.  As I do with all these signs, I scanned them in and, in this case, reduced the image by 40 or so percent.  Then, it was just a matter of cutting out what I need.  Here, the curved scissors were of great help.  A puddle of glue and sign done.   I also cut out some very small Pegasus signs for the gas pumps. 

The kit provides wire to mount the sign on the roof, but it is the same wire used for the gas pump hoses, so I used brass rod instead.  Drilled holes in the sign base and in the roof, a bit of glue and voila.  Done and done.
Well, nerts.  I noticed that there are several spots that will require some paint.  Then it'll be done.

[sdrees]

This is a good looking project Bob.  Very nice!

[PRR Modeler]

Very nice modeling Bob.

[Janbouli]

I'm a sucker for gas stations anyway , and this sure looks good .