I noted in another post that the new FOS kit, Rust Rock Falls, just arrived. I plan to build and site that on a rocky outcrop next to the FOS kit Bandits Roost. As Rust Rock Falls is a Christmas gift from my wife, it has gone into hiding until December 25. So lets begin with Bandit's Roost.
Bandit's Roost is a massive kit, released two years ago. I missed the original release but was fortunate to find an unopened kit online for just about the original selling price. Below is the box and front label:
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I unpacked it and laid out all of the box contents on my workbench for a quick inventory. Had to back up a bit for a photo:
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My start is somewhat less than glamorous. The instructions start with Vallon Paint and the adjoining Burger Joint, two basic structures. As with my last FOS super kit, I took my time to locate (and label in pencil) the main walls for each building. Vallon Paint was relatively easy--the walls are distinctive and easy to locate. However it took me about 20 minutes to locate the walls for the burger joint.
The instructions identified the foundation and the wall that adjoins the paint structure, but did not identify the other three walls. Knowing that they will be covered in corrugated siding, I knew they would not be wood. I finally located them as one continuous piece on the taskboard (cardboard) sheets. Below are all of the main walls for the first two buildings ready to begin:
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Sorry, that is as far as I got this evening.
--George
I'll definitely be following the build George.
Happily following!
George,
Count me in, too!
Same here George!!!!!..Dennis
Wow, That's going to be quite the structure build Opa George. I can't wait to see what you can do with it. Your last build "The Terminal" was pretty cool.
;D ;D :o
Following along
Curt, Dave, Jerry, Dennis, Bruce & Jan--very happy to have all of you along for the adventure. Please chime in with tips along the way. I haven't seen this particular kit covered in any detailed build threads yet, so I may need some guidance here or there.
Have a happy day!
--Opa George
this is so great that you are posting your build on this kit! I'm starting mine this winter to fit into one of my back corners of the layout. Any tips/ issues that you encounter and share with us will be greatly appreciated! Do you plan on following the prototype regarding the structure placement/ elevations? I will on mine as it looks like it will be complimentary to a back corner.
Got my popcorn in hand and I've been relegated to the second row to watch this one since the front row is already full. ;) :D
I really like the look of this kit. There's a lot of visual interest. I can't wait to see what you do with it.
I have this one to do sometime. So I am very interested how you will go on. Good modelling!
Mike
I am sitting back here in the second row with Bob.
Jim
I'm Ready :)
Welcome Bob B., Mike and Jim! Dennis--you are indeed ready to go.
Bob C, I do plan on building it very close to the pilot model plans. If anything, I may alter the elevations to increase or stretch them out a bit so that it sites better with Rust Rock Falls, which has more extreme elevation changes. But other than that, because I like the narrow-crooked street layout so much, I intend to keep it a lot like Doug Foscale designed it.
Early on in the thread I will post some pics of my intended site on my layout.
--George
George
I will be following along - looks like I'm late to the party - balcony seating for me.
I'll be in the 2nd row with Bob & Jim watching this massive kit build George..... :)
Hope they haven't eaten all the popcorn..... :o
Who needs two!?
I'll be happy with one. ;)
Welcome and happy to have you, John and Greg. A bit of a popcorn scuffle developing. I may have to order in some snacks.
This is the end of my layout where both Bandits Roost and the Rust Rock Falls kits will live, once installed. It is roughly six by four feet, double-tracked on the bottom (the outside third track is a siding) and single tracked on the top return loop.
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Here is the same real estate from the opposite side (my layout is a walk-around). All of the structures are movable--just sitting in place for now. Most of the area is bare plywood. As both of the super kits feature water (canal, stream, waterfalls) and the bottom return loops are "in the way," I am planning on super elevating the new kits and run the return loops underneath.
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There is a nice deep corner, more than 18 inches deep, that will accommodate the really dramatic waterfall of Rust Rock Falls.
Anyway, that is the plan. Next post will be back to actual kit construction.
--George
I vary only slightly from the kit instructions by distressing the walls before bracing. I like to have them very flat to better line up on the cutting mat grid. My order of distressing is: ponce wheel for nail holes, followed by brushing with a file card to provide subtle wood grain, then heavier brushing with a welding brush, and finally lifting of boards using a razor knife (fresh blade, please!).
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I apply the heaviest graining around the edges, near the roof peaks and in corners. The wall below will have the bottom half covered by the adjoining wall of the burger joint, so I did not spend any time working on the bottom half. (Apologies for the terribly overexposed photos--should not have used the flash)
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All of the paint shop walls are braced and clamped with clothes pins to dry overnight. Tomorrow I will use a base of A&I and add paint.
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I used one fifth of the supplied 1/8th square bracing just on these four walls. I think even judicious use of the supplied bracing will come up short. Luckily I picked up an extra supply of that size at the craft store, so be aware you will need more.
Below is the foundation of the burger joint, with bracing aligned behind the scribe line to accommodate the walls.
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All for this evening! Have a great night. (I'll improve my photography for next installment). :)
--George
George,
Your location and plan should work out very well and do a great job of showcasing these beautiful kits. Looks like you're off to a good start. I find almost every kit I build requires more bracing that what is supplied with the kit. Of course, I am pretty obsessive about using lots of bracing. IMO better too much than too little! Really glad I have a front row seat for this thread.
I'll be watching.
I got a bit super excited with the idea of exaggerating the slope a bit, saw a potential change straight away and had to do a quick sketch to see how it would look. Its a bit more work but food for thought. Please feel free to delete at your leisure.
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: mark dalrymple on October 16, 2019, 12:10:24 AM
I'll be watching.
I got a bit super excited with the idea of exaggerating the slope a bit, saw a potential change straight away and had to do a quick sketch to see how it would look. Its a bit more work but food for thought. Please feel free to delete at your leisure.
Cheers, Mark.
Mark, Thanks! That sketch is exactly what I had in mind. Below is a photo from Doug's website and I think it clearly shows how easily I could do that. I like it!
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In the instruction book, he shows a diagram of his foam base. It shows only a 1.5 inch rise. His photos make that look more dramatic, but I am inclined to go for double that to increase the dramatic impact.
Thanks!
George
George yur off to a fine start!!
Jerry
Looking forward to it, George.
Its nice to make some little changes here and there to make it a little different from the original. I'm not surprised you saw the same thing as me - it kind of jumps out at you when you start thinking about exaggerating the gradient. Oh - I love the kit you're getting for Christmas - so much drama!
Cheers, Mark.
Mark, indeed I can't wait to get to that one, but of course will...must.
Today I gave the Vallon Paint walls and strip wood trim a coat of A & I, and when thoroughly dry, a sponged coat of white paint. Below are the walls with the A & I. The darkest wall (lower left) is the one that will be in the shadows of the alley, least bleached by the sun and heavily mildewed. It is a stark difference here, will be a subtle effect under the paint.
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Strip wood in many kits is stained on the end to help identify it quickly. That is handy, but there is a danger. A good example of why you should not use the stained end on any visible areas is shown below. After a coat of A & I, they bled into the newspaper wherever they touched.
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The Vallon Paint walls with a white top coat. I sponge painted cheap craft store acrylic paint, using a synthetic sponge saved from packing materials. I really like this particular white paint because it is thick and dries super flat with a distinct texture from its high viscosity that looks like aged paint. After it is completely dry I will clean up the lines between boards where the thick paint filled in any desirable detail.
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Not shown, I put a coat of gray primer on the plastic window castings using Rustoleum rattle can primer. They are still curing as I type this.
Cheers!
George
Looks great George.
It's worth ordering 1/8" square wood in bulk for bracing wood and even styrene structures (I get mine from Mt Albert). You can't be too strong, have too many clamps, or use too much bracing :-)
dave
looking good George, appreciate the time you are taking by posting photos, ect. When it comes to stripwood, I like to separate them and label what they are.... once I stain them, the color on the ends can disappear!
That is a nice shade of white that you are using
George,
I'm late to the party but following closely. Great start. This is one of the kits I wanted to get but just didn't have room in the stash pile or on the layout. :'(
Tom ;D
George
I really like the plan for elevation change. Great start on the kit.
Thanks for the comments and welcome, Tom. I'm very happy to have you looking over my shoulder.
The walls, windows and trim have all cured for a day so it's time to start putting glue to wood. Below are the Vallon Paint walls with corner trim added. I also painted the parts to the display window on the laser cut sheet.
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I used the back of a razor knife blade to clean out the lines between boards. It gives it more definition in spots where the paint wanted to hide detail.
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Added and weathered some signs.
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And with windows, it is starting to come alive.
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I was looking closer at the site plan and counted eleven or twelve structures in this kit (counting the livery shed as a distinct structure). Wow.
--George
George,
Looking really good (and you have barely started). Glad I have a front row seat for this build!
Great color on the walls George.
Hey George:
It's looking just great. My Great Grandfather through myself were house painters and paperhangers. I mixed lots of White Lead, oil and turpentine. We used to make our own paint. Probably luck I didn't get lead poisoning.
Karl
Thanks for the compliment, Jerry. Karl, I love that story and your connection to that sign. Sounds like maybe I should add a few extra vents to the roof, for safety.
--George
Great start George! It certainly would be a more dramatic effect super-elevating the buildings. I'll be following along. Lead, oil & turpentine oh my! Extra vents would be a good idea.
Love that coloring terrific job so far!!
Jerry
Repeating what everyone else has said - Great job! The walls look excellent. ;)
Hey George, the paint effect looks great, as do the signs.
Ditto to all the above.
Tom ;D
Thank you, everyone. Let's continue with dressing out the walls for Vallon Paint.
Sometimes I mentally walk through the steps per the instructions, keeping all parts in front of me, so I can visualize and better understand the steps. At this point, however, I skipped over the paint stencil and installed the window castings first. Had I visualized the steps, I would have realized that the window castings would interfere with affixing the stencil absolutely flat on the wall. So I had to trim the top and bottom of the "PAINT" stencil to make it fit between the castings. This made applying the black paint to the stencil a little more "fussy" than it normally would have been. However, all turned out well enough.
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My observation on using stencils is to apply a much, much lighter coat that you think you need, if you are going for an aged effect. Almost what you would consider too light. Here, I thought I had gone too light, but when I removed the stencil, realized it was even a shade darker than I had envisioned. I like it though and did not attempt to lighten it by sponging on more white. Don't forget to go back and carefully fill in the tiny areas where the stencil cut through the letters.
I added window shades, the laser-cut doors and began building the storefront window. Below is a close-up to better show the construction of the bay window.
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Here is the reverse of this same wall at this point in the construction. The laser cut door components are so precise that gluing them in place can be a little difficult as their side edges are so thin, making a tiny area for the glue to hold. Also, if your trim is not exactly right, a little light will show through. If the door is solid and will be closed, I like to glue some black construction paper to the back wall surface. This allows me to glue the laser cut door directly to the black paper instead of to the door frame itself, and it also blocks any light that may show through the edges.
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I took some very thin wire and fashioned a door handle, then used a pin vise to drill holes to match the wire size. A drop of wood glue on the reverse holds the handle in place where the ends of the wire poke through. In the bay window, you can see some tiny bits of scrap representing a display.
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Installation of the alley entrance door using the same black paper backing.
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Just about ready to assemble the walls. I found some tiny scraps of leftover shingles (already painted!--a bonus) from The Terminal kit for the small bay window roof.
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Maybe more later today--stay tuned. --George
Very nicely done George.
Your structure is looking fantastic, George!
I love the little boxed window with all the details inside - and the addition of shingles to its roof looks great. You seem to have also made most of your nail holes disappear, which is very effective.
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: mark dalrymple on October 20, 2019, 02:02:34 PM
Your structure is looking fantastic, George!
I love the little boxed window with all the details inside - and the addition of shingles to its roof looks great. You seem to have also made most of your nail holes disappear, which is very effective.
Cheers, Mark.
Thank you, Mark! I am slowly learning the art of subtlety in modeling.
I mentioned earlier the high viscosity of the white acrylic craft paint that I prefer. It also happens to be the cheapest at the craft store--so I can't genuinely claim "yea, I planned it that way." But after seeing how it performed in a previous build, and how the dry sponged-on paint cracks and resembles chipping paint, I went out and got several more bottles before they changed their formula. ;)
--George
Two more shots of the Vallon Paint structure with walls up. First is just the four walls, clamped and drying.
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I assembled the dormer, found the roof and added some bracing. The taskboard is thin, and once I glue on (yes, I still prefer glue to transfer tape) the roofing, don't want it to warp or sag.
Not shown, because it is still drying/curing, is the roof paper. I used rattle can flat black, lightly oversprayed with light gray, then a top overspray of flat black again. I like the effect and you will see it in my next installment. Below are most of the rest of the Vallon Paint components, minus details such as chimneys, exhaust vents, and such.
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--George
George,
I really like the weathered paint on a painting company, nice subtle humor coupled with some very accomplished modeling. Adding details to the bay window is a nice way of implying there is detail inside the structure. Really glad I have a front row seat for this build.
Awesome build!👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
real nice work there George!
What is the spread of those blue clamps? where did you get them?
thanks
bob c
Thanks Jerry and Dave! Bob, the blue clamps will accommodate about a seven-inch spread. I like them for squaring up structures while clamping to dry. The locks slide in place with finger pressure, making it easy to adjust pressure. I found them on e-Bay. I can't find the manufacturer on them, unfortunately. I want to say Osborn, since I got them at the same time as my file card and I thought they were made by the same company.
--George
Bob,
The clamps are made by Excel and come in 3" and 7" lengths. I have both sizes and find that I have to be careful the clamps are exactly where I want them before pushing the wedge into place, otherwise they work quite well.
I put a light coat of white glue on the roof surface and applied the roofing strips, trying to give some contrast in length and shade. I'm always self-conscious that, in trying to make it look random, it will come out looking anything but random. Below is the roof, ready to go under a heavy book to dry.
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Here, trim has been applied to the tops of the walls, the main roof glued down and the dormer glued in place. For small structures such as this, I like rubber bands to hold the roof to the walls to dry. These have a gentle tension that won't make the walls bow in, but are strong enough to do the job.
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To do yet: apply battens to the roof, weather the roof, apply more light weathering to the walls with pastel chalks. Prep, paint and apply castings: chimney, electrical service, misc. Make rain gutters and downspouts. A few more days and this first structure in the kit will be done.
--George
Quote from: jerryrbeach on October 21, 2019, 07:52:51 PM
Bob,
The clamps are made by Excel and come in 3" and 7" lengths. I have both sizes and find that I have to be careful the clamps are exactly where I want them before pushing the wedge into place, otherwise they work quite well.
Yes, thank you, Jerry. Those are Excel clamps. As soon as I read your post I recognized the name.
--George
Some quick progress pics.
Here I added a piece of black construction paper for a light baffle. I like how it gives depth.
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Here is the Burger Joint cardboard wall ready to go on the base. I have already attached the single solid wall.
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More soon.
George
While the Burger Joint walls dry, here are shots of Vallon Paint so far. I applied battens to the roof, added the foundation and fashioned some rain gutters. Still a few more details to add (downspouts, chimney, etc).
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And the other side. No weathering on the roof, yet. That is on the "to do" list.
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Below shows how the Burger Joint will attach to Vallon Paint. I found the cardboard wall to be just a tiny bit large for the base. I considered cutting it into single wall panels, but in the end decided to square up the front and rear and allow the side wall to sit slightly out from the base. You can see the cutting mat showing between the side wall and the foundation, below.
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To remedy that, I will build out the foundation by adding a length of 1/16th square strip wood. But for now, that is all. Time to quit and watch the World Series.
--George
George,
Update photos show some nice progress. I hope you are planning to darken that batten along the ridge. It looks pretty bright, though the way it stands out could be the lighting and/or the camera. I like the decision to add a piece of strip wood to the foundation to make the burger joint walls match the base.
George very nice. Looking forward to your progress.
Jerry
Quote from: jerryrbeach on October 22, 2019, 09:26:40 PM
George,
Update photos show some nice progress. I hope you are planning to darken that batten along the ridge. It looks pretty bright, though the way it stands out could be the lighting and/or the camera. I like the decision to add a piece of strip wood to the foundation to make the burger joint walls match the base.
Hi Jerry--thanks! You are right--it does look quite bright in the photo. I didn't notice at first. There is not as much contrast to the naked eye so my incandescent goose-neck work lamp may be producing some of that. I also used a piece of strip wood from stock rather from the kit, so different wood with different qualities of showing the driftwood stain as well. I'll go over it with another bit of stain.
With regard to the foundations--both are supplied with the kit.
--George
Quote from: Jerry on October 22, 2019, 10:32:37 PM
George very nice. Looking forward to your progress.
Jerry
Thanks much, Jerry!
--George
Very nice George.
Hey George:
Looks just beautiful. I especially love the signs.
Karl
George,
Very nicely done so far.....
Loren....
Thanks for the nice comments, Curt, Karl and Loren.
The walls for the Burger Joint are corrugated metal--not a very inviting look for a fine dining establishment. So the owner decided to dress it up with a coat of blue paint--quite a while ago. I began by spraying the corrugated panels with Rustoleum red primer--a nice base for rust.
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Then I added the blue, topped off by some shades of gray, then some browns. All colors are acrylics thinned with water.
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I used scissors to cut the separate panels--a tip I learned here. But any method of cutting leaves the uncolored edges. I used an alcohol art marker with wide chisel tip to quickly color the edges. This is "Pewter," but most gray shades will work well. Brown could also be used for a rusted edge.
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Panels are applied to the wall base with wood glue. I worked around the window and door openings, and when it came time to side around the openings, used a technique I learned from a Builders In Scale kit. Cover one half of a window and let the panel glue set.
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Cut out the half window, then apply the next panel. With the first half cut, you can easily see where to make the next cuts.
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Test fitting a window to the opening--Success!
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Time to let everything dry and cure.
--George
George,
That front row seat I grabbed is really paying off. I like the way you did your corrugated siding. Clear explanation of what you did and a great result. Blue is a difficult color to use without it looking too bright. IMO you nailed it perfectly. Definitely enjoying this build!
George
I'm just getting caught up on your build. Looks fantastic so far. I have this kit in my stash so I'm watching with great interest.
Looking good, George.
I, too, like the technique and colour you used/ achieved on the corrugated iron. The maker on the side is a nice tip.
Cheers, Mark.
Really nice! What color blue did you use?
Corrugated steel looks amazing , great job.
Quote from: rpdylan on October 25, 2019, 12:30:52 AM
Really nice! What color blue did you use?
[/quote)
Thanks for all the nice comments, guys.
Bob, below is a shot of all the acrylic paints I used, lined up, to get the "final" color on the corrugated siding (not really final--I'll play around with a few more streaks of rust and grime in the final weathering step.)
I diluted them with water to various degrees. Some just slightly where I wanted a stronger effect, some to a greater degree where I wanted a wash. The base color of Rustoleum red primer also muted them.
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In case you find it difficult to read the color names, they are, from left to right: Scuba, Desert Sand, Terra Cotta, Chestnut, Fossil Gray and Pale Gray.
--George
Very nice work Opa George. I am going to have to try out that corrugated metal technique on my next structure build.
Thanks, Bruce!
Continuing on, I added acetate "glass" to all windows, nice sunny diner shades and an "Open" sign to the front door, then glued them to the walls, leaving the front door ajar so I can add a customer later. I roofed it in tarpaper, but changed up the color. The paper roofing strips had been spray-painted flat black. I took three of the strips and over sprayed with Rustoleum primer red. When that was dry over sprayed a little lighter with Rustoleum "Multicolored Textured" Desert Bisque. I rather like the final result.
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I constructed the roof sign per the provided template, and added a few more details and signs. Although not yet done, below are a few progress pics.
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and the side, which to my eyes is calling out for a billboard poster or vines or something:
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and what it looks like in place (not yet attached) next to Vallon Paint.
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Sorry if these pics are a little fuzzy--I may have gotten too close with the camera.
--Opa George
George
Great idea going with the blue. it really made a difference. Really nice work.
Jerry
I really like the blue color.
Jerry and Curt, thanks for the feedback on the blue color. I've read, and heard, that blue must only be used judiciously and rarely on model structures because it seldom looks good. I have to say, though, that I have quite a bit of blue on the structures on my layout. I tend to use muted blues and grayish blues. Maybe that is the safe zone on the color wheel!
--Opa George
I attached the burger joint, Hole In the Wall Grill, to the paint shop and added more details, dry brushed some highlights with silver, then with light gray, and applied chalk weathering powder. Still to do, add downspouts and the electrical service cable. Below are shots all around:
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Front side and alley:
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Front from other angle:
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I set the first two structures aside for now--let the paint and glue fully dry before adding additional details. Next up is the gas station. As this is a stucco structure, the walls are fiber board and will assemble via tab and slot construction.
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Although the roof is not to be added until later, I have it on, but not yet glued, in order to keep the wall angles accurate.
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Here is the assembly as seen upside down, showing the scribed wood ceiling, which also helps guide the shape. I added nail holes, but little distressing as this would be in a protected area. Hunterline Light Gray brings out the texture and the nail holes. You may note at this point minimal internal bracing. I'll add some bracing after the entire assembly fully dries. As there was no A&I application, there was no fear of warping at this point.
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The next step in the instructions made me pause. The posts on the gas pump island are cut to fit from 1/8 inch square strip stock. However the pilot model shows the structure on a foundation, whereas no foundation is mentioned in the instructions and none is provided, that I could tell. If the structure is later elevated on a foundation, the cut posts will be short by about 1/16th inch.
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There is a sidewalk provided for this structure, so I went to my parts box and found a scrap of 1/16th sheet wood, the height matching the sidewalk, large enough to accommodate the gas station. I cut it to fit, and can now measure and cut the island columns.
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Here, the core assembly is drying. The roof, foundation, sidewalk and gas pump island are not glued yet.
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--Opa George
Looking good, George.
Are you sure you don't want the internal floor within the walls? It now looks like you will need two steps from the front door to the road - one level with the threshold (or just down a fraction) and one at the same height as the footpath. I wonder whether these will encroach too much on the forecourt?
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: mark dalrymple on October 25, 2019, 07:49:14 PM
Looking good, George.
Are you sure you don't want the internal floor within the walls? It now looks like you will need two steps from the front door to the road - one level with the threshold (or just down a fraction) and one at the same height as the footpath. I wonder whether these will encroach too much on the forecourt?
Cheers, Mark.
Mark, Thanks--I'll take a closer look at that before I glue my impromptu foundation on--something to examine. But I don't think even an extra step will intrude enough to matter. I was planning on a few oil drums or other items outside the door anyway. Below is Doug's pilot model with something under the structure, although I know the pilot doesn't always match the kit exactly.
--George
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Hmmm. You see in my opinion that should really have two steps - everyone would trip over the threshold as they went into the shop. Having said that I have seen them like this, and we are always short on space on our models. I'm probably guilty of the same myself.
Cheers, Mark.
The "front side and alley" photo highlights a real discrepancy with this kit. Why is the one door a foot or 2 higher than the others?
dave
Quote from: deemery on October 26, 2019, 06:14:55 PM
The "front side and alley" photo highlights a real discrepancy with this kit. Why is the one door a foot or 2 higher than the others?
dave
I've been assuming the door on the front is a loading or freight door and the side panel door is the walk-through entrance. At least that is how I'll present them once in place. I think it will work.
--George
Just a rather boring photo today of the gas station walls primed. I used gray primer outside and black inside. Also primed in gray are the laser cut windows and the plastic door. Next step will be application of the Durhams Water Putty for stucco. It's a bit of a fussy operation but my last foray into water putty stucco turned out well enough.
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--George
This evening I applied the Durhams Water Putty mix as stucco. The rough coat always looks, well, rough.
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The other side:
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Using a razor knife, I cleaned out the window openings, the door opening, removed a few stray smears and globs and cleaned off the tabs at the top of each wall that fit into the roof. It is looking much better now.
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After it is totally dry, at least 24 hours, I will sand it and otherwise fool around with the finish to refine how it looks, pre-paint.
--George
The gas station stucco has dried overnight to a near rock-hard finish, making sanding down the high spots relatively easy. I used a few cheap disposable nail files along with some 320 grit sandpaper. The nail files helped in defining the edges of the window sills. Below is side one:
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And side two. The smooth areas represent the stucco top layer, and the rough, lightly sanded areas represent the rough exposed masonry where the stucco has crumbled away.
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I gave it a coat of Rustoleum camouflage ultra-flat "Camo Sand" from a rattle can. This color will provide the base color for the exposed masonry.
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All for now.
--George
Very nice job George.
Thank you, Curt! I just added paint to the walls. I sponged on acrylic white to the entire structure except for the concrete gas island, which I painted a light brownish gray.
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And the other side.
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Then added a red lower half, and a blue stripe, with blue accents on the windowsills. The red was applied with a blue tape mask in place, but when I tried that with the narrow blue stripe it was not good. So the blue stripe is painted freehand. I'll go back after it dries and dress up the lines a bit more.
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Later I will tone down the bright blue with some chalks, selective sanding, etc. The windows and door are lying in the background, sponge painted a matching red.
--George
Hey George:
Looks good and I'm following along.
Karl
Thanks and welcome, Karl.
Today I installed the windows and door and added some signs. It is coming along nicely. The roof will be next.
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George
George nice job on the stucco & paint!
Jerry
Thanks, Jerry. It's certainly a work in progress.
Here I added a coat of Hunterline Light Gray overall. I then wiped over the white areas with a cloth to remove most of the gray cast from the white surface, leaving it to darken the masonry underneath, and to take the brightness from the red and blue.
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I will have to do a little bit of touchup on the red and maybe the blue. The stain softened the acrylic just enough that I accidentally removed a touch here and there, exposing the bright white underneath. I also note the stain darkened the wall thermometer to obscure the face. Maybe it will be visible when fully dry, but I'm not optimistic. Note for future: apply the tiny detailed paper signs after.
Time to glue the roof in place. I replaced some of the center with a piece of scrap scribed siding, to represent the roof boards underneath. When I apply the roofing paper, I will allow some random spots of wood to show through.
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The wood was distressed and then colored with full strength A & I mixture, and some randomly applied Hunterline Driftwood.
George
Looks great George.
Looking good, George.
The timber-work beneath the flat roof will make a nice touch, although it will make the building leaky. Maybe you will need to address that in further weathering? An exposed patch over the front wall with corresponding rot in the ceiling over the forecourt and water stains down the wall?
Cheers, mark.
Mark, thanks for the extra weathering ideas for my bad roof. I like them and will be adding a little more rot to the front ceiling and wall.
Below is the building with roof paper installed but not yet trimmed. I allowed two distinct bare areas on the roof where the tar paper blew away.
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Below is the same after some trimming, cutting away, tearing and weathering. I also added a Charlie Chaplin movie bill to the wall. The image is not sharp, so I will post a few better views after I get the rooftop sign built and installed, which is the next step.
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--George
Nice job on the roof.
Nice weathering on the roof.
Jerry
George,
It's so horrible and nasty looking it looks fantastic. Well done.
Tom ;D
This kit is coming along fantastic George! You always do killer work! I love following your build threads!
Thanks, Curt, Jerry and Tom. I love that comment, Tom. This really resembles the grungy corner garages of my childhood. Todd, your support and comments are much appreciated!
Only had time for a bit of modeling, so I added the rooftop sign. It will need some weathering and streaking.
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We're advertising tires, belts, oil, batteries, with no access to the interior for a vehicle. So apparently all of the work is done outside in the alleys alongside the building. This really DOES resemble a few of those tiny corner garages I remember. Yes, indeed, this is going to be a hoot to model all of that going on!
--George
Can't really add other details until I start building the base for the entire complex of structures, so here is the gas station pretty much done, next to Vallon Paint and the burger joint. I added a Bollinger Edgerly "Skanky Yankee" Gas Station Attendant, currently holding up the front porch column while he waits for a customer or lunchtime, whichever arrives first. Now I need a name for him.
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Here is the other side of the gas station with some Rusty Rail junk castings to keep it from looking lost.
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But now I can move on to the Livery building. Doug Foscale describes this as another simple, four wall structure, which it appears to be from the wall pieces. The walls are not on the larger wood sheets, but rather may be found in the small plastic bag of miscellaneous wood walls. I also located the roof, the foundation, and a very small porch base. Everything is laid out in the picture below prior to bracing.
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I have them braced and drying. Will post more tomorrow.
--George
It all looks great.
Thanks for the support, Curt.
I also discovered the gas station attendant's name is Otto "Hub" Kapp.
--George
Great work on this build George!
Really cool, George, Coming along nicely, as all your builds do.
Jim
Thank you Mark, and thank you, Jim.
Here are the Livery walls with some distressing using a file card, then a welder's brush, then a wash of A&I. The doors are sponge painted with white acrylic paint.
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For wall color, I chose an acrylic "Deep Wine." It is a very dark red, but I dry-brushed it on and it stayed relatively light with a washed out look.
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Above is one of those weird and rare mistakes in the instructions. I added corner trim per the diagrams, but only after it had mostly dried did I realize that the high (front) end of each long wall did not need it, since corner trim is also applied to each side of the front. I was able to remove it without a great deal of trouble, fortunately, and sanded the edge smooth.
--George
George,
Great job on the walls, looking forward to seeing the Livery come to life.
Looks great. I love that washed out red color you where able to create for the structure.
Jerry and Bruce, thanks very much for the looks over my shoulder and the kind comments!
I added the window and doors, attached it to the base and roofed over the roof card. The roof card includes two vents, half-die cut into the surface. I applied paper to the opposite side and cut out the vents from the die-cut guides on the bottom.
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Here is the structure assembled. Lots of detail to add, but this is the basic form. I posed the front doors open, which means I need to come up with enough interior detail to suggest activity. I have some ideas.
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The other side. This side, if sited according to the plan, will adjoin the machine shops and won't be seen. But as I am planning some elevation changes, part or all of it may be exposed. How much will have to wait for me to play around a bit, later.
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A better view of the roof and vents. The back door is up and will have a porch built underneath.
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As I noted, lots to add to this one yet.
--George
Quote from: Opa George on November 12, 2019, 05:18:44 AM
Thanks for the support, Curt.
I also discovered the gas station attendant's name is Otto "Hub" Kapp.
--George
Love it! ;D ;D ;D
The structures are looking great. This is really going to be something when you're done working your magic on it. ;)
George,
Interesting design by Doug with the door at the rear elevated above the floor level. I'll be watching to see how you make everything come together on a hillside.
Thank you, Bob! Jerry, I'm not exactly sure how this will come out--we'll see!
I didn't get anything dramatic done tonight. Lots of small details: the roof vent frames, the porch under the back door, and the frame of the outside horse stall. It is coming along...
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George
When I returned to my workbench, I decided the outside horse stall should be longer than provided, so I essentially just doubled it in length. I also created a concrete pad from scrap sheet siding. It is spraypainted with dark gray primer, with a very light overspray of camo desert sand. After it dried, I scribed in expansion joints and cracks.
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I am also making the stall slightly wider. The instructions call for locating the timber wall 7/8th inch from the livery side wall, but I went out to the edge of the concrete, which is 1 & 1/8th inch. I also remembered to install it with the horizontal boards on the horse side. The wider measurement meant I could not use the provided template for the rafters. I eyeballed the length I needed, cut and checked it. When satisfied that it was long enough, then cut eight more for nine rafters total.
Below is where the structure is at so far. I'll let the timber wall dry thoroughly on the base before installing the rafters and tarp roof.
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Cheers!
--George
Very nice George.
Thanks much, Curt!
The outside horse stall will have a green tarp for a "roof," so to create one I painted full strength "sage green" acrylic over a tissue. First one side, then when it was mostly dry, the other side. That needs to thoroughly dry overnight before working with it further. By tomorrow, the sheen will be gone. Wrinkles are perfectly fine for this.
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While the tarp dried, I began installing the stall rafters. I notched each on the outer end slightly so that it contacts the timber wall better. I just eyeballed their placement--starting with one on each end, then dividing each resulting space with the next one.
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Once all the rafters were in place, I began cutting straw from a package of Woodland Scenics yellow field grass. I just picked up pinches and cut and recut until it was very, very fine. It occurred to me that I should paint and install certain detail castings inside the stall before placing the straw, so am currently painting a few castings (not shown). I did experiment with it by placing some at the front doors to the livery. I think it will look ok.
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More tomorrow.
--Opa George
Looking good Opa.
Looking forward to seeing the "tarp" used.
Thanks, Karl, and thanks, Curt. I was going to get to the tarp this evening but ran into a snag.
Below is the livery stable with a nice Rusty Rail shelving casting painted and in place. I had a pile of "straw" ready to glue in place all around the floor. So far so good.
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I put down a thin base coat of carpenter's glue, then placed piles of straw. Here is where I think I invited a possible problem: to secure the piles of straw, I syringed on a mix of thin white glue (3 parts water, 1 part white glue). It beaded up, so added a bit of alcohol to break the water tension. The globes of thin white glue soaked in immediately, and it looked good.
Then the wooden "concrete" base began to curl up like a dried leaf, pulling away from the bottom of the timber posts. So I clamped it to a flat surface and decided to let it dry completely before any more work. The tarps will have to wait until tomorrow or later. I hope it dried flat! We'll see!
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--George
Looks really good, George. I don't know why you went to the trouble of scribing in expansion joints and cracks into the concrete though. ;D
Cheers, Mark.
HI Mark,
Yes, that work may not show through much now. That's ok. Sometimes the muse leads you in a different direction.
Smiles--George
Hey George:
Looks great. Keep the photos coming.
Karl
Karl
Really great work. The hay effect is perfect!
John
Quote from: cuse on November 20, 2019, 06:09:59 AM
Really great work. The hay effect is perfect!
John
Thanks, John. As Mark notes, the concrete work below is now hidden. :( My original plan was for most of the hay to be piled up near the sides (a lot of vintage pics of the interiors of livery stables showed that) with the middle of the concrete pad showing through. But I got a little "hay fever" and a bit too much! Oh, well, I do like it this way, too.
--George
Quote from: Opa George on November 20, 2019, 09:02:21 AM
Quote from: cuse on November 20, 2019, 06:09:59 AM
Really great work. The hay effect is perfect!
John
Thanks, John. As Mark notes, the concrete work below is now hidden. :( My original plan was for most of the hay to be piled up near the sides (a lot of vintage pics of the interiors of livery stables showed that) with the middle of the concrete pad showing through. But I got a little "hay fever" and a bit too much! Oh, well, I do like it this way, too.
--George
Excuse me all -- replace all references to "hay" with "straw." That's my city-boy culture fouling me up on matters of keeping livestock. ;)
It looks perfect George! :D :D :D
The stable hands must have just cleaned up the place else there'd be some....err... exhaust piles mixed in with the hay...err.... straw. ;D ;D ;D Maybe you can add some scent to the scene to really bring it to life. ::)
What's the old saying, "You can get more for hay before it's passed through the horse."??
dave
Sage observations, Bob and Dave!
I finally got the tarps on. Took as long as a 1:1 job, but in the end, I like the look. I still need a ladder so the stable hands can get up and at the tarps.
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George
Looks great George.
That is one sweet build.
Lots of eye candy there!
Cheers, Mark.
Thanks for looking in, Curt, Bob and Mark. I appreciate your support. As part of the overall kit, this structure is deceptively under-emphasized in the instructions. It is the last "simple" structure before tackling the more complicated machine shops, or the featured enamel works with its multiple stories and tower, but I have had a great time with it and I think it's been my most enjoyable part so far.
Still more details to add. Although I appreciate suggestions, I am going to pass on Bob's idea of adding scent! ;)
Speaking of which, who remembers the line of model railroad scents marketed back in the 70s or early 80s? I sniffed around the internet and found the product: it was "Olfactory Airs" by Mikros Corp. They advertised in MR.
George
Great work on the framing of the stall! the weathering looks great, love the signs and the other detail work here. I'm following along closely as I've yet to start my kit
Love the tarps, George. Neat detail
And yes, I remember Olfactory Airs. A layout I visited back then had coal scent around the coaling tower, and the owner was planning on getting a few more. Never made it back to find out which ones.
Jim
Hey George:
Looks just beautiful.
Karl
Opa George,
As far as I am concerned you've already won the Blue ribbon with this model. Fantastic job!
;D ;D ;D
Thanks so much for the kind comments, Bob, Jim, Karl and Bruce.
I'm calling the livery building done and will move on to the machine shops. Below are some "final" pics of this structure, although I know I'll find a few more things to tweak or add. I added the ladder, a rain gutter and downspout, outside lamps, and some etc.
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The outside horse stall.
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And the back side. The long blank wall will butt up against an adjoining structure, and therefore has no detailing. The outhouse is a rusty rails casting, and the small barrel and junk casting next to the back door porch is one of the FSM detail castings now being produced by Railroad Kits. I picked up the barrels/drums assortment in Timonium from them, and this is from that collection. Really nice detailed castings.
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--George
WOW George, you did a beautiful job.
What a beautiful little structure. The wood, hay, tarp...everything looks great.
Jeff
wow, lots of nice detail on this.... this is going to be a killer diorama when you get done!
Thank you so much, Curt, Jeff and Bob. :)
Next up is the machine shops (or, per the instructions, apartments and machine shop). This is the multi-level structure on a hill that I plan to alter to double the height difference from bottom to top. Refer to Mark's sketch on page 2 of this thread to see what I mean. So this is where it gets interesting!
Below are the walls for this angled structure, as they come in the kit. To pull off this kitbash, all of the long non-gable walls will need to be split roughly in half vertically.
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Here is what this structure is supposed to look like, along with the wall plan. Note that the machine shop portion is a rectangle and the apartments are a parallelogram. My plan, adapted from Mark's drawing, will preserve all angles and turn the machine shop into two rectangles and the apartments into two parallelograms.
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Of course wouldn't you know it, one cut has to fall on a window. Fortunately a few of the plugs were still sticking in the walls. One came in quite handy.
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All cuts are now made, and I now have eight half-walls instead of four walls. I laid out the front (left) and back alley (right) to approximate the rise. In the plan, the rise from top to bottom is only 1.5 inches. The new plan doubles it to 3 inches. Surprisingly, the incline angle will not double because I can stretch it out an extra few inches, but it will still be a very steep street.
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So here are my new walls, ready to start bracing. With the extra elevations, I needed to make two additional gable end walls. I did not have any clapboard sheet, but I did have some nice scribed siding, which I will run vertically for visual interest. There are also four dormers, but for now I have left them on the carrier sheet.
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Due to the variance in the plan, I need to study the overall new plan before starting bracing. So that is all for tonight.
--George
Wow George this build is turning out fantastic! Love every bit of it. The weathering on the livery is great! and all the details!
Really looking forward to this part of your build, George. I do love to see a kit being changed up.
Cheers, Mark.
Hey George:
It's looking just great so far. Looks like lots of walls to work on.
Karl
Thank you, Karl, and thank you, Mark. Yes, this is an exciting part. I'm still not exactly sure how it will come together, but I think I have all the main points covered.
--George
Quote from: Todd W. on November 26, 2019, 10:36:19 AM
Wow George this build is turning out fantastic! Love every bit of it. The weathering on the livery is great! and all the details!
Todd, thank you. Your input means a lot. I've been following your builds on your website and in your podcasts. In fact I was listening to the last podcast when I worked on this next step and, wouldn't you know it, had two of the snafus you talked about: snapped one wall frame next to a window when I dug too deeply trying to lift a board, and I also had the ponce wheel "wander" on one wall. Thanks for the re-assurance that it happens to all of us.
--George
OK, the machine shop walls have had a lot of "background" prep. As it is all pretty mundane, I haven't documented it in photos. The bracing is done and I distressed the walls with my usual variety of tools: file card, welders brush, lots of lifted boards using a razor knife, and lines of nail holes with a ponce wheel.
I mentioned above, in my reply to Todd Wiley, how the ponce wheel wandered on one line. I'm sure you'll be able to spot it in the photo below. Looks like an extra sign, vines or maybe an external plumbing pipe will be in order to hide it later.
Below are the main walls with an initial coat of alcohol and India Ink mixture. I may go with a second application, but will make that decision once they are completely dry. I want them to have a nice gray look before painting.
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--George
Looking good George.
Hey George:
The walls looks just great. Hmmm my pounce wheel does that every once in A while to. As you said you will hide it.
Karl
Thank you, Curt and thank you, Karl.
Today I got a chance to paint the walls. As noted earlier, I did add a second application of A & I, so two coats in all. I think my solution of A&I is getting lighter with use and the black pigment is becoming more diluted. So take the two coats note with a grain of salt and apply what looks good to your eyes.
However I did very from my usual procedure by applying a third coat of A&I after I painted the walls. I stumbled on this technique by accident. I had distressed several lengths of 1/16th stock for corner trim and then sponge painted with green paint, then realized I had not given the stock an A&I application before painting, as I usually do. I applied the A&I on top of the paint, and really liked the effect, tried it out on a rear-facing wall and liked it, so applied this third coat to all the walls. I think it brings out even more shadow and wood graining.
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Below are all the main walls (dormers and pub entrance walls not shown) with window castings installed. No glazing yet. I used craft store paint as shown. Colors are Nicole's Light Ivory for the white, Arctic Blue for some of the lower floor shop exterior, and Folk Art Forest Moss for the main wall color.
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--George
Windows are glazed and window shades and etc installed.
Time for assembly. Starting with the highest part of the building, I assembled the first rectangular portion and made sure it was square. The next portion would share the common wall and therefore would be only three-sided.
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I installed guides to help locate the walls for the next lower portion, although I decided to cut them down a bit, which you will see in later photos.
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Parts three and four are the angled portions, and I used the supplied foundation to get the proper angle. With regard to the supplied foundations, I decided to use them as patterns to cut out my own from some thick taskboard I have, since I was going to slice them up anyway.
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The four portions assembled and propped to allow the glue to dry and cure. So far, so good. This gives a significantly different look from the original model. This photo does not give a good representation of what it looks like. I'll supply more photos later.
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Mark--thanks for the inspiration for this. I really like how it is coming along.
--George
Exciting, George!
As an observation - you seem to have made it significantly steeper than the sketch. This will probably require some trickery around the doors - steps down, steps up etc. Having walked around some very steep city streets with my eyes open - anything is possible! All you really need is a stairway width in front of the structure - about 1/2" or even a little less.
Cheers, Mark.
Thanks, Mark! Good observation in noting the increased height. In fact my sense of the dramatic got the better of my common sense and I went with a 4 inch total rise. Pretty steep for any road in real life, but certainly workable in my miniature world.
In looking at it, I just realized I have been working with the town of Harpers Ferry, West Virginia in the back of my mind as inspiration. I have visited that town many times and love the feel of the old town built on the side of the mountain. I do plan to set the street back just enough from the building fronts to allow for the necessary access, ramps and stairs.
I was even thinking of adding a shallow front yard or two with some hogs and chickens--taking that cue from my small town West Virginia visit a few years back.
George
Wow! Looking good Opa George.
;D ;D ;D
Hey Bruce, thanks for the nice comment!
There is another small structure that tacks on to the back side of the machine shop row: a pub entrance. It is a three-sided, very simple covered entrance. Below are the parts. The directions specified which roof to use, but after taking it from the carrier sheet, I realized it was not wide enough, and it also has a score line, which would not be needed on this application. So perhaps the instructions listed the wrong roof number. I did not see another more suitable, so will simply use a bit of scrap cardboard.
By the way, and to help anyone who builds this going forward: each of the three walls for the pub entrance are on separate carrier sheets. I guess that is just how they needed to be positioned for maximum efficiency--so be careful which walls you remove to use here.
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Here is the assembled machine shop row, with a few additional details. The stone wall (not fully colored yet) is cut from a larger random stone wall mold from Bragdon Enterprises.
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A close-up of the interior of the machine shop with some Faller shop machinery on the work floor. This is woodworking machinery, so not entirely accurate for a machine shop, but I mostly wanted something to suggest machinery through the open doors. I don't think it will be closely inspected.
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I attached the service station to the bottom, and the livery stable to the top, and secured the entire row of structure to the base for eventual installation on my layout. At this point, still much to do on the row: roofs, lots of trim, and the landscaping on this near side. I'll probably begin to rough that in even as I start the enamel works, which is the feature structure in this kit.
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--George
George,
You have made some definite progress. Looks good, I like the slight difference in wall colors. FWIW, you can always make the machine shop a millwork shop. I'll be interested to see how you pull the change in elevation together.
I just read from page one to page 11, here, and I am impressed with what you have created. Highly unusual kit design but extremely interesting to build and have on a layout. All those little sections / dioramas really come together. My favorite was the gas station.
mike lynch....madmike3434..........HAIRBALL
Wow , looking great.
Quote from: jerryrbeach on December 02, 2019, 07:48:15 PM
George,
You have made some definite progress. Looks good, I like the slight difference in wall colors. FWIW, you can always make the machine shop a millwork shop. I'll be interested to see how you pull the change in elevation together.
Thanks, Jerry. I may make up a new sign on my computer and go with millworks. I like that idea and it will fit well in this neighborhood on my layout. I don't have all the mechanisms for the elevation changes mapped out yet, but have several ideas.
--George
Thank you, Jan. And thank you, Mike. I really enjoy FOS kits--lots of interesting structures and most have certain "flair" to make them stand out.
--George
What a great looking, interesting build...I love the multiple levels! That's one of the features Doug Foscale uses so well in his displays. I'll be following
John
Looking good, George.
I think I can imagineer that road in place...Do you intend it starting around the corner half way along the garage wall?
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: mark dalrymple on December 03, 2019, 12:40:07 PM
Looking good, George.
I think I can imagineer that road in place...Do you intend it starting around the corner half way along the garage wall?
Cheers, Mark.
Hi Mark--that would be great. Have a go at it. I'm at work now and don't have measurements for you but can get them this evening, with a top-down photo so you can see the plan (although it does follow the zig-zag of the original kit plan).
Also, I plan to use Chooch cobblestone streets, which are actually more like Belgian Block. I understand cobbles provide more traction than concrete or asphalt.
--George
Here is a top-down view of Machine Shop Row (or maybe to be named Millwork Row).
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In round numbers, the total rise is 5 inches and total run is 11 inches. Yup, that's a 45% incline. By starting the slope at the service station bay instead of halfway along the side wall, and extending the slope to the outside horse stall of the livery stable instead of at the edge of the stable, I can extend the run to 12 inches, which gives a 41.6% incline. But why make it easy on the little 1/87th residents?
George
HI George.
Baldwin Street, which until recently was considered the steepest street in the world, has a slope of 19 degrees or 1:2.86. I work your 5/11 out at 24.4 degrees or 1:2.2. At present you unofficially have the steepest street in the world! I would run a line from the bottom left of the livery door to the bottom left of the single door with a transom. If this line kept going down at this already very steep slope it would meet the garage at the center forecourt bay - which I can't see working. I would be inclined to revisit the first step in height, between apartment one and two (of 1,2,3,4 starting at the bottom). By lessening this step by maybe 8 clapboards, all would become easy. Why don't you try mocking up a road and see what you think?
Cheers, Mark.
Hey George:
WOW!!! you are really making progress with this.
Looks just great.
Karl
Startin' to look like stamp mill... ;D
HI Karl and Jim, thanks for looking in and for the nice comments. I appreciate it.
Mark, I spent the last few days puzzling over the road and decided instead of making it a straight run, went a different route (literally). I added an extra expanse of board to the diorama base and will take the road out on a bit of a dogleg run perpendicular to the mill to gain length and keep the grade to something considerably less rigorous for my 1/87th residents.
The photo below shows the added space, with red lines superimposed to very roughly approximate the new road. Black lines represent rock faces or fieldstone walls.
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This will work out better for multiple reasons:
1. More opportunity to build in some dramatic scenery with the rock faces.
2. This preserves the open space below the mill, where the divot is carved out, for a large culvert that will continue on through, under the 5 story factory (the "Enamel Works" in the kit, but destined to be renamed when built), and empty out into the canal on the other side.
3. This arrangement forces me to re-orient the entire diorama by 90 degrees, so that the top of the hill will now butt up against the high part (the dancehall side) of the Rust Rock Falls kit, which will work out better than my original plan.
--George
George coming along very nicely.
Jerry
Looking forward to your progress, Jerry.
Cheers, Mark.
Hey George:
It's looking more and more like a building. Great job so far.
Karl
Thanks Jerry, Mark and Karl! I appreciate it.
Holiday preparations have kept us busy lately, but yesterday and today I got some work done. The road from Cold Bottom to Bandit's Roost is laid out and has a sub layer of cardboard. The wood shops will have vehicle access at the top, with stairs, decks and hoists providing access to the lower levels. See the overall birds-eye-view below.
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Although I have spent most of my time in figuring out and constructing the narrow, hilly road, I did have time to get back to some detailing on the buildings. They still lack porches, rain gutters and downspouts, chimneys, vents, etc, etc. Lots of detail to go on yet. But now that I have the nagging terrain questions mostly worked out, I can return to the actual kit.
Below is a closeup of the covered alley that runs beneath the shops. The road surface is Chooch cobblestones, and the rest of the roadway will probably continue in that material. I needed to cover the road surface first before building the timber supports that hold up the shops. This is definitely a "low clearance" area, made originally for wagons. It has a ton of detailing possibilities. Also visible is the carboard tube that makes up the culvert interior. This size tube matches the Woodland Scenics culvert perfectly. Once scenicked, only the interior of the tube will be visible. But as this will be close to eye level, you will be able to see all the way under the factory complex to the industrial pond on the other side.
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It is "coming along."
--George
George,
Very innovative approach. I really like the idea of an alley beneath the shops. Looking forward to your continued progress.
Looking good, Jerry.
As the door is at floor level you'll need joists and bearers to support the structure. If the bearers are timber they will need to be pretty substantial. I would think at least 6"x2" joists and 12"x2" bearers.
I found a photo I took of a Baldwin street sign a few years back - thought it might be of some interest.
Cheers, Mark.
Thanks, Jerry, and thanks, Mark, particularly for the bracing advice. I have some 6" x 2" stock for joists, and am thinking of using 1/8" square strip wood for the bearers--but really weather, scribe and chew it up to resemble really old rough-cut timbers. This will cut my headroom down by about 3/16 inch, but it should still be enough to make it a believable underpass. ("Low bridge, everybody down!").
George
Hi Mark. He's being too polite to mention it, but it is George who is doing the build, not Jerry. Jerry is just the head cheerleader :) (just teasing, Jerry)
George, looking really, really cool. Nice work around to reduce the steepness, but still glad my old legs don't have to hike it lol
Looking forward to your further progress.
Jim
Hey George:
Looking good. Can't wait to see more.
Karl
So sorry George! Looking tremendous!
Cheers, Mark.
Thanks, Jim, Karl and Mark. And no worries, Mark. Call me anything but late for dinner.
So I have begun filling in the skeleton of the hill around the mill work shops. No photos, much of it is hard to see anyway. I expect I won't be able to begin the next structure in this kit, the 5-story factory, until after Christmas.
I did start adding the support beams underneath the covered alleyway. It's a bit of reverse engineering and kind of like building a ship in a bottle, but that's my fault. The idea to make a covered alley did not occur to me until after the structure was glued to the base.
I did have time to design a new sign for the shops. Since I used woodworking machines for the interior, I needed to change it from a machine shop to a wood working operation, and thus needed a new sign. I found some examples online and created the two signs below in MS Word. The random black shape outside of the border will be trimmed off when I cut them out to apply.
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George
its looking really good-- that is pretty steep up from the gas station, almost like you could run another switchback up to where the road makes that sharp left (the upper switchback), put a set of concrete stairs in from the gas station to the second building... its really interesting visually what you are doing!
Bob, thanks for your comments. I pretty much agreed with everyone that the first part of the road was too steep, so I lessened the grade from the gas station to the alley. I like the overall appearance of the road more, now. Today (after a week off from modeling for work and holiday preparations) I began laying the cobblestone road from Cold Bottom, the town at the bottom of the hill, to the summit town of Bandit's Roost. I am using Chooch cobblestone streets for this. Below is an overall view.
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I think if my roads were nice and straight, my pieced together edges would look more seamless. But this road is angled every which way, and I can see I have some work ahead of me in hiding some seams with weeds and dirt. No problem.
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I ran out of cobblestone roadway, so finishing the top will need to wait until I can purchase some more. But I have plenty to do in the meantime with constructing the various decks and stairs to give access to the middle two sections of the mill. That, and still lots of detail to add to the mill before moving on to the showpiece of the kit, the 5-story factory.
I thought I would be further along about now, as the big "part two" of this build is putting the Rust Rock Falls complex on the summit next to Bandit's Roost. Rust Rock Falls is arriving via Santa Claus tonight, so I am clearly behind schedule. Ah, well--it's nice to be blessed with lots of modeling work ahead of me.
--George
George,
I like the roads with the switchback. The grade change seemed extreme to me when I first saw the structures, but you have done a masterful job of designing the road in a believable way. This is already exciting, and I am really looking forward to how Rust Rock Falls fits into the scene.
Great modeling George. I really like the elevation in this build.
Hi George!
Looking good!
the road in front of the rope store looks a lot better in your latest photos, extending the road out where the gas station makes it look much more do-able for driving a car up it! the bottom of that upper switch-back (the upper left corner of the photos)... is it the angle of the camera/photo?.... it looks as if the bottom of that last hill could be leveled off just a bit more?..... or maybe you are still working on the road underlayment?.....
Its really coming along nicely, lots of character and interest--- great job!
Thanks for looking in, Jerry, Curt and Bob. The road out near the "elbow" takes a sharp and precipitous turn--part of the drama, I think. I'll smooth out and disguise the crack between the cobblestone pieces but leave the dangerous-looking angle.
Below, two pics of my progress on getting platforms, decks and stairs in. I built a heavy timber loading platform at the top of the hill for wagon and truck access to the millworks. Supports are equally hefty, although I admit it's still dubious engineering. I am capable of a considerable amount of suspension of disbelief, though. I like the rickety look of structures clinging to the side of a mountain.
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Another angle. I have much, much more to do. Balconies, dormers, railings, etc. But I like how it is shaping up.
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Cheers!
--George
George, I love what you are doing with this. Very imaginative! Lemony Snicket immediately comes to mind!
Love it...and I love "Dubious Engineering" in our modeling. Great!
John
Sweet George , the elevations are fantastic.
Thanks for the notes, Darryl, John and Jan. Since I am siting the FOS Rust Rock Falls kit next to this one, I will need a lot of elevation. Rust Rock falls needs about six inches of height below the structures to look good, and more may be even better.
George
Great work. Going to be one hell of a diorama.
Jerry
Thanks, Jerry. I am surely hopeful!
The dormers for the millworks went together easily. I used an artist's marker (similar to Prismacolor) to color the underside of the cardboard. This brand is from AC Moore and is "Fossil."
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The windows and window "glass" were all laser cut and fit perfectly. I added roofing to match the existing roof. They add a nice touch to the overall structure. I also started the dock, stair and deck railings.
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--Opa George
Looking really good, George.
A lot of interest going on here.
Cheers, Mark.
George,
This build is really coming together nicely. Well done sir.
Tom ;D
OK - I'm officially back in the modeling game as of last night. I finished off a seemingly endless series of wiring tasks and I can finally run trains around the basement. Been waitin' about 25 years to do that. ("Waitin'" was the problem, of course.)
So, what does this have to do a a Bandit's Roost build thread? Turns out I was planning to build that kit next as well -- to create a corner scene (simiilar to rpdylan's comment earlier in this thread) just north of Monee - the first town I'm looking to scenic.
I started working on the paint store last night -- separating walls from the sheets. Surprisingly, I have never had to do that. The walls in the kits I have built have always been completely separated. The little "sprues" that hold the walls to the carrier seemed a little stubborn to me. My question to George (or anyone else) is how to best do that? Just be careful with a single edge razor blade? X-acto knife? Some other way? A bit embarrassing, actually - I have watched scratchbuilding videos where people cut out entire walls with what seems to be less effort than it took me to break a few of those nubs. (Yes, I started with a fresh razor blade.)
Would appreciate any insights.
Vince
Hi Vince,
Wonderful to hear you are back in the game!
For the task you mention, and for most of my other soft material cutting needs, I swear by a NEW X-acto #1 blade in a standard blade handle. Reward yourself at the start of every kit with a new blade, and don't be afraid to install a new blade anytime you feel a little dullness creeping in.
Lots of modelers also like straight-edge razor blades to cut out walls & parts. It's mostly personal preference, I think. I like the pencil-like handle of an X-acto--I feel it gives me more control.
Most walls will separate easily with a few cuts. For stubborn or thick attachments, make multiple cuts with firm, steady pressure.
For separating plastic parts from sprues, I use a sprue cutter, which is a tool specially made to make clean, flush cuts. However a razor knife or blade will also work.
For safety, try to remember to put the cap back on the razor knife when done.
I hope you post pics of your Bandits Roost build. This kit packs a lot of fun and I am having a ball with it.
Best,
(Opa) George
When separating laser cut walls, etc from the carrier sheets, I find it works best to cut on both sides. Start on one side, score through the little bit of material that connects the part to the rest of the sheet. Then flip it over and cut through on the other side. This prevents splintering and gets a quicker and cleaner cut.
dave
Quote from: Opa George on December 28, 2019, 12:00:28 PM
Hi Vince,
Wonderful to hear you are back in the game!
For the task you mention, and for most of my other soft material cutting needs, I swear by a NEW X-acto #1 blade in a standard blade handle. Reward yourself at the start of every kit with a new blade, and don't be afraid to install a new blade anytime you feel a little dullness creeping in.
Lots of modelers also like straight-edge razor blades to cut out walls & parts. It's mostly personal preference, I think. I like the pencil-like handle of an X-acto--I feel it gives me more control.
Most walls will separate easily with a few cuts. For stubborn or thick attachments, make multiple cuts with firm, steady pressure.
For separating plastic parts from sprues, I use a sprue cutter, which is a tool specially made to make clean, flush cuts. However a razor knife or blade will also work.
For safety, try to remember to put the cap back on the razor knife when done.
I hope you post pics of your Bandits Roost build. This kit packs a lot of fun and I am having a ball with it.
Best,
(Opa) George
Thanks, George. I just did a quick look on the Internet and can't find any #1 blades. I found #2 blades -- looks like a heavy duty version of the #11 which makes sense, but no #1s. Didn't even see anything on xacto.com. Do you have a reference?
Also, I forgot all about sprue cutters. It is my go to tool for plastic parts but it didn't even occur to me to try that. Might give it a shot.
Yes, the kit looks like a blast. I won't be taking on anything as ambitious as you are doing with the bashing for dramatic elevation changes. Instead, I think I am looking to pretty much follow what Doug did in the show model. Modest elevation increases from front to back to increase visibility of the rear structures and help the overall scene composition somewhat.
I have to say that FOS kits are quite different from the FSM and SRMW kits I previously built. Much less in terms of documentation. I think it will be good enough - will probably even eventually appreciate the brevity, but I sure wouldn't want this to be the first craftsman kit I ever built. And, how super handy that you are blazing the trail in front of me! I am definitely benefiting from your posts.
I will probably post pics in my overall Monee thread (wherever that is). Won't be for a couple weeks, I think, as my iMac is in the shop for service. So, my regular computer rig is not quite as powerful as usual.
thx,
Vince
Quote from: deemery on December 28, 2019, 01:25:16 PM
When separating laser cut walls, etc from the carrier sheets, I find it works best to cut on both sides. Start on one side, score through the little bit of material that connects the part to the rest of the sheet. Then flip it over and cut through on the other side. This prevents splintering and gets a quicker and cleaner cut.
dave
Thanks, Dave. I thought I tried that too. Still didn't get that "feel" that wood fibers were being cut with each pass. Almost like the laser cutting process "petrified" the wood in some way.
I'm probably just imagining it. Been out of circulation for several months and maybe a little fearful as I'm just getting back on the horse.....
Vince, my apologies, it is #11 blades I use most of all. My mistake, I don't think there are #1 blades.
--George
Vince, welcome back to fun :)
I use the basic #11 blade for quite a bit of tasks, but for cutting the tiny connections between a part and the surrounding material, I use either a single edge razor blade or, a Xacto #17 chisel blade. If I use the #17, I place the bevel facing away from the actual part.
You will have to try different ways, before you find which you prefer. Just be careful cutting, the main thing.
Jim
Been religiously following and enjoying...just not posting much (you know the drill...posting issues). Really coming along great!
Thanks very much, Dave. Very happy to have you looking in.
I have plenty of time later to finish the scenery & road details in front of the millworks, and decided I want to move on to the next structure in this kit, the enamel works. But to do that, I need to place the partially worked diorama on my layout. Below are two pictures of the permanent home for Bandits Roost, on the summit above the inlet. The Rust Rock Falls complex will be located on the other side of the summit.
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At the moment it appears to be floating on air, resting as it is on some wood blocks. The actual diorama base is not yet fixed in place. I will need to bring it back to the workbench once the enamel works is ready to install, and for additional scenicking.
The structures on the inlet are from the Builders in Scale kits "The Wharf" and "The Waterfront." This image is taken from the level of the inlet, looking uphill at the summit. Sorry for the glare of the camera flash.
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Below are the main walls of the enamel works, laid out and ready to brace. These are the main structure walls, with the tower and loading dock addition. The annex, the power house and the conveyer shed are not shown below. I'll work with those structures once the mill is substantially complete.
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All for now.
--Opa George
Yesterday I braced all the walls per the kit-supplied diagram, using extra bracing as needed. As the frieze boards on the tower are to be finished in the same color as the walls, I glued them in place before bracing. I allowed everything to dry overnight.
Prepping the walls for staining took quite a while. I am going for a relatively high degree of wear and tear, so I spent a good two hours in applying distressing marks. I used a ponce wheel for nail holes, then spent most of my time lifting boards with a razor knife. I finished with both a file card and a welder's brush for extra wood grain.
After distressing the walls, I applied Hunterline Blue Gray quite liberally and applied weight as they dried. Normally I would not use the blue-gray stain for a base coat, but as the wall colors will be a pale gray-blue, I thought it was appropriate. At the bottom is some 1/16th stock, stained the same color, for use as corner trim.
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Below are the same walls after sponge painting with a loose mix of craft acrylic "Arctic Blue" and "Pale Gray." I know it looks somewhat like a pastel or baby blue in the pictures. Weathering will tone that down as we go along.
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Next up are the paper Enamel Works signs--one of the signature looks of this kit. They are to appear as if painted on, and as they are very long and require a good deal of patience and precision to get in place, I thought I would document my technique. Prior to applying the signs, I sprayed the reverse of all walls with a good coat of Rustoleum flat black or dark gray primer and let dry.
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I laid each sign face down on newspaper and brushed it liberally with water. I immediately brushed on white glue, covering it completely and working it into the water to coat every bit of the back side of the sign. Using tweezers, I carefully positioned the sign at the top of each wall. The water/glue coat is pretty forgiving and allows a minute or two of work time.
One satisfied with the position, and making very sure it lined up well along the horizontal clapboards, being very straight and true, I began to blot it down with a dry work rag. It is important to start by GENTLY dabbing and blotting. Do not rub or scrub. You will see the impression of the clapboards underneath begin to show through. Check your alignment at this point--it is still possible to make minor positioning adjustments if needed.
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Continue blotting along the entire length of the sign. Go back along and blot harder, pushing down firmly against the surface. Again, do not move the rag horizontally along the sign, as it is still wet and fragile and may tear. Stop when the clapboards beneath are fairly distinct and the sign no longer looks "wet."
Start at the top of either corner and begin pulling the tip of a toothpick along the underside of each clapboard. Do not apply much pressure, only enough so that you can begin to see the clapboard edge become more distinct. I even twirl the toothpick as I pull it along to avoid catching and tearing the paper. Blot up any glue that oozes out from the sides or ends.
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After multiple passes with the toothpick, the clapboards beneath the sign will become quite distinct. Using the same painting sponge with which I painted the walls, I very gently and lightly dabbed over the sign in the equivalent of a dry-brushing. Below are the results so far. It is still slightly wet, but once it dries thoroughly, I will lightly sand over the entire sign to represent more wear at the clapboard edges.
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Next major bit is installation of the windows.
--Opa George
Time to install some windows, and there are a lot of them.
For this part, I am only working with the plastic Tichy windows supplied. There will also be laser cut doors and windows, but I'll work with those next session.
I spray-paint primed the gray plastic windows with Rustoleum Camo Sand for a base "wood" color. Typically I sponge paint the plastic cast windows with my desired color, but decided to try something different with these. To simulate a faded, peeling paint, I very lightly oversprayed all of the primed windows with Rustoleum flat white. I held the can further away and used as light a coat as I could manage. I like the result. On really close inspection, the completed window assemblies still look as if they have faded, peeling paint.
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I like wood glue to attach the plastic windows to the wood wall. Once all were installed, I cut out acetate and applied it to the inside of all windows with liquid plastic cement. It was a little tedious considering the large number of windows--and laser cut acetate was not included for the plastic windows--but in the end it looks good.
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Next up: adding window shades, more signs on the walls, and the white trim.
--Opa George
Great modeling and color George.
I've been using Deluxe Materials "Super 'Phatic" glue for styrene to wood. This is the same basic kind of glue as wood glue (PVA), only a lot stronger. Deluxe has been at Springfield the last 2 years, so I've had a chance to talk to them about their product line. You can get this stuff at Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/DELUXE-MATERIALS-Super-Phatic-DLMAD21/dp/B0047YMZBC Strongly recommended!
dave
Thanks for the kinds words, Curt, and thanks for the tip on the specialty glue, Dave. I'm always looking for good glues and can see where that may come in handy for certain troublesome joints. I'll give it a try.
--Opa George
The walls turned out just great George as did your signs
Looking good, George.
I would love to see a close up of a window showing the result of the new painting technique you used - if possible.
Cheers, Mark.
Thanks, Steve and Mark. Here is a close-up of a section of one wall.
--Opa George
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Good looking build. The sign is really good.
George,
Looks great! Thanks for posting the techniques you used to get this far.
George,
The windows turned out great, I'll try that technique one day. Love the walls and sign as well.
Tom ;D
One hell of a nice looking wall, sign & windows!!
Jerry
Thanks, George.
I'll give that a try.
Cheers, Mark.
I've mostly finished the walls for the enamel works. Trim was added to the freight door openings and walls where indicated in the instructions. The remaining laser cut doors and windows were added pretty much per the instructions--no problems encountered. I added a few details as well as window shades (off white for the main building and industrial green for the entrance shed in the back).
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Time to put the walls up! I sanded the corners of certain walls, per the detailed instructions, and then attached the first two walls. I had previously cut out the full-size wall plan template in order to lay out my diorama board, and found it came in very handy here for alignment. The walls are NOT glued to the plan.
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Another wall, and I used the roof on top to make sure my alignment was consistent.
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The final three walls are attached. Again, the plan at the bottom and the roof at top are used to check proper alignment and angles. Neither the paper plan at the bottom, nor the roof at top are attached. Note that I spray painted the roof dark gray, and will aponge paint the edge and overhanging underside with white to match the trim when it is time to attach it. But for now, I am letting everything dry completely.
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Here is a view of the rear. The entrance shed is aligned with the right wall, even though it appears in the photo to be angled.
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So far, so good! I thought this main building would be a little more complicated, but it has been a surprisingly easy build to this point. But I think the roof, with all of its dormers, may be where the challenge comes in. We will see.
--Opa George
Looks awesome.
Thanks, Curt.
I sponge painted the edge and underside of the roof base with my trim white, and glued in place. That allowed me to add in the final three tower walls. While that dried, I gathered the pieces for the roof and dormer spacers (white pieces). In addition to the roof top, there are 16 side spacers and 4 rear spacers. Fortunately, the rear spacers are larger and easily enough to distinguish.
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Assembling the roof with the dormer spacers was easy. I first sanded the spacer bottoms and sides, to remove the slight spur from the carrier sheets. Then, following directions, I glued the four rear spacers in place, then the 16 side spacers in place. Here is where I varied from the directions: I did not wait for the spacers to dry before adding the top roof. I glued it in place right away, making sure all tabs fit properly, then I used the rear dormer wall (representing the widest part of the dormer) to test fit the space that would house the dormers. I am glad I did this, as I found two that would have been too tight, and was able to adjust the spacing before they dried.
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Next up: building the ten dormers.
--Opa George
I'm getting ready to build the ten dormers for the Enamel Works. Below are the clapboard sides and the front window wall. I gave all a wash with Hunterline Light Gray, then, after they dried, a sponge painting with the same color used on the main structure walls (mix of craft Acrylic "Arctic Blue" and "Light Gray."). Also shown is a length of 1/16th strip wood for the trim, distressed and washed with Hunterline Light Gray and sponge painted with craft acrylic white.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-050120114010.jpeg)
I either misplaced or ran out of the needed size of strip wood supplied with the kit, but always try to have extra stock of the most-used sizes on hand: That is 1/8th inch square for bracing, 1/16th square for trim, and something close to either a 2x8 or 2x10 in scale lumber.
Below are all the parts needed for the dormers, laid out and ready to assemble. The white cardboard bits to the right are the back of the dormer boxes, which will not be visible once the roof is on. For some reason, there are two extra supplied (unless they go with another dormer later---I have learned to never throw anything away until totally done with a kit).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-050120114046.jpeg)
--Opa George
You're flying along with this one, George!
Looking very nice.
Cheers, Mark.
Thank you, Mark. I'm a little surprised myself at how easily this large structure is coming together.
Here are the ten dormers made up. Important construction note: the front wall has a top and a bottom. The bottom horizontal panel is taller than the top. This is a detail that might go unnoticed if you aren't paying attention.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-050120160516-423892181.jpeg)
Another note, the rear wall also has a top and bottom. Note how it fits flush at the bottom. If you install it upside down, it will hang beneath the side clapboard walls by about 1/32. beyond that, this is just a strengthening element and does not reach all the way to the top of the box.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-050120160516-42406765.jpeg)
In the photo below, all completed dormer assemblies, including the laser-cut window sashes, are installed on the roof between the spacers. A few tips:
1. Check multiple assemblies for fit as you go. Despite my efforts to make sure all spacers were uniform, and all assembled dormers were uniform, a few just were too tight. I tried the same dormer with a different set of spacers and found a better fit, and at the same time found a "skinnier" dormer that would fit in between the "tight" spacers.
2. Only two dormers fit loose enough that I used glue. The remaining eight are installed without glue and I have no worries they will move or shift.
3. For the tight fitting dormers, use a steady pressure to push them into place, making sure you are not applying pressure to the more delicate glued front wall/window sash. They should sit flat and level to the roof at front and rear. The front of the dormer assembly should sit flush with the tip of the spacer.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-050120160517-4240789.jpeg)
To finish for the day, I applied the roof sections. Gotta love a well-engineered laser-cut kit. Each of the three roof sections fit perfectly. I am letting everything dry thoroughly before beginning to shingle the roof.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-050120160517-42408122.jpeg)
--Opa George
Super impressive work, George, as always.
That hill climb would still scare me, walking LOL
Jim
Quote from: JimF on January 09, 2020, 09:39:20 AM
Super impressive work, George, as always.
That hill climb would still scare me, walking LOL
Jim
Thanks much for the compliment, Jim. This kit is tons of fun. I need to post a pic of my shingle adventure. On my third day and not done yet. It is fiddly and somewhat tedious work getting them lined up around the ten dormers.
Yes, the hill is not a gentle one. My inspiration is from some of my favorite hillside towns: Harpers Ferry, WVA, Steelton, PA, and Shamokin, PA. All have some very steep driving and even walking roads.
Opa George
I love it when a plan comes together. Or in this case a roof. Great job illustrating the assembly and providing pictures. I can easily see where applying the shingles would be very time consuming. :o
I've been to Shamokin and Steelton. There's also an interesting road that drops down into Mahanoy City. Steep with a hairpin turn halfway down. Lot's of fun in the winter. :o :o :o
Looking good, George.
It looks like the kit is designed in a way that makes a difficult assembly fairly easy, although your experience is making a big difference too.
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: mark dalrymple on January 09, 2020, 01:48:32 PM
Looking good, George.
It looks like the kit is designed in a way that makes a difficult assembly fairly easy, although your experience is making a big difference too.
Cheers, Mark.
Mark, thanks for that vote of confidence, but I must say the design of this kit is really efficient. Funny that you mention that, though, as I do remember a step in a Builders-in-Scale kit (Tidewater Wharf) in which the instruction book warns about the next step, noting "we'll probably get hate mail over this next step..." Indeed it was a bear to get through, but I persevered, despite losing about six dollars worth of religion!
--George
George,
Great build and very informative tutorial on this one. That is going to be one fantastic looking roof. Love all the different angle.
Tom ;D
Thanks, Tom, for that note. Happy to provide the step-by-step.
So, hooray, they shingling is finally done. Below is one side and a partial view of the entrance side of the building (which faces the rear of the diorama). I have some trimming and cleaning up to do, but the main work is done.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-090120194541.jpeg)
And here is the other side. I got faster as I went along. One thing I discovered was that the three spaces between the four center dormers on each long side is exactly 8 shingles long. Once I knew that, I could cut strips and have them ready to go. That did speed things up a bit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-090120194616.jpeg)
The center flat roof will get rolled roofing, as will the ten small dormer roofs. I'll be using a grayish black color. Then it will be on to constructing the top of the tower. I've been reading ahead in the instructions and that looks like fun.
--Opa George
Terrific modeling George.
Wow!! Just getting caught up. Beautiful modeling George.
Keep p the great work!!
Jerry
George,
Just catching up on your project. Amazing work. I really like how everything is coming together.
;D ;D ;D
Thank you very much, Curt, Jerry and Bruce! I appreciate the support!
Today's picture don't show a lot of dramatic progress--just small things. I added the mansard roof top trim. Lengths of 2x6 at the top of the shingles and 2x10s for cap boards. I applied the 2x6 lumber first, let it dry well and then sanded off the top angle to get a flat (albeit narrow) surface for the 2x10 cap board. Had I not sanded, the edge of the 2x6, since it is applied on an angle, would have jutted up in spots like this: ^
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-120120085819.jpeg)
The photo above also shows some additional details. I devised a loading dock door bumper from scrap wood, and added a Model Tech wall exhaust vent to the wall. This side of the structure is actually the building main entrance, or front wall, although the opposite rear wall with the tower is more prominent in the diorama and kit pictures.
Speaking of the tower, I began constructing the tower base, seen weighted by a bottle of Floquil "Dust" that has survived. The base represents decorative molding and is achieved very simply by building up three squares. When dry, I will prime with gray and sponge paint white to match the other trim.
Below is a lower level shot of the structure "front" showing the newest work. It better shows how the mansard roof trim works together.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-120120085903.jpeg)
More roofing work coming up.
--Opa George
Below
That looks superb. I seem to have run out of superlatives.
This is really looking fantastic, George!
Cheers, Mark.
Thanks very much, Bob and Mark.
--Opa George
hey George:
That's coming along quite nicely. Like the colors and weathering.
Karl
George,
I agree with the rest, this is turning out very nice.
Tom ;D
George just had to reply again. That is so very well done your coloring is perfect.
Jerry
Karl, Tom and Jerry, I really appreciate the support. This kit is really fun!
Last evening I installed the rolled roofing on the main roof. Today it is completely dry and ready to weather. To the left you can see some of the parts for the tower.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-140120195747-425361524.jpeg)
Here is the main roof after weathering. I used a small folded piece of 180 grit sandpaper to get the highly worn effect.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-140120195747-425461489.jpeg)
Below are some sub-assemblies of the tower. The trim in laser cut, and is quite delicate. I bent one, but did not break it. Glued in place the bend is not noticeable. The wooden gable ends are painted to match the main building siding.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-140120195747-42547259.jpeg)
Here are the assemblies in a trial fitting. No glue yet.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-140120195747-42548654.jpeg)
And here is the tower fully assembled, sans finial. The pilot model clearly shows wire covering the seams, although that step is not mentioned in the instructions. I added lengths of piano wire in the rather large gutters between the sides and on top of the gables. It looks much better this way.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-140120195747-425491421.jpeg)
Here is the assembly with a base coat of paint. Once dry, I will dry-brush with white to lighten it a little.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-140120195833.jpeg)
All for now...
--Opa George
Looks terrific so far! Great job on, well, everything. ;D
Top notch modeling George. Everything looks terrific.
Thanks very much, Bob and Curt. I'll post a progress pic this evening. Last evening I dry-brushed the completed tower assembly with white and added some dirt and grime to the patina to mitigate the "fresh" look. I stained and painted some stripwood for the rooftop stair access, but did not start assembling that yet.
--Opa George
That little roof came up great, George.
Cheers, Mark.
Looking good George.
Thanks for looking in, Mark and Carl. I have quite a bit more work done but have been delaying posting pics until the forum is confirmed fixed. Today should be a good work day with a snowstorm moving in, so will get something up a bit later.
--Opa George
really great modeling George, she's a beauty with all of those roof windows! Speaking of the roof, I love what you did with the black roof paper- very nice!
Here is a pic.
(//)
OK, I can't seem to imbed pics that I have uploaded from my Gallery, but I can attach them, so we'll go with that.
Below is where I am at with the Enamel Works. The tower is completely assembled and attached. The rooftop sign with the laser-cut lettering is assembled and attached. I was surprised at how small it was in relation to the gas station sign, but I guess being up on top of the tallest building, it does not have to be huge. I also assembled and attached the rooftop access stairway.
The next pic is just another angle.
The third pic shows the rooftop with extra details: accumulated leaves, some junk boards, a few windblown newspapers, and I attached the roofs to the ten dormers. Next up will be attaching a side shed. There is still a boiler room to build and attach as well.
Great progress George.....that was one complex roof system..... 8)
Thank you, Greg. It was a bit of a challenge, but I found by not rushing, it turned out quite well.
Here are some photos of the "side shed." It is a 3-sided cardboard construction that tacks on to the side of the enamel works. The walls are finished as if sided in tarpaper. I may have over-braced the interior, but as the cardboard is significantly less rigid than wood, I did not want to take any chances.
The wooden strips, probably equivalent to furring strips, came in a laser-cut form with adhesive backing. This made application much easier than glue.
For the roof, I put an underlayer of rolled roofing under the corrugated metal, then allowed for part of it to show through.
With regard to my previous post, I should mention that instructions call for steps to be added below the side shed panel door. I have some but the paint is still drying.
Next up is the boiler house, which also tacks on to the corner of the enamel works. This was one of the most interesting constructions I have encountered in a kit for a while. The top portions of three of the walls are extremely delicate, and even though I thought I was being extra careful, still broke one. It glued back together well enough, but in the final joining phase it made slightly imperfect fit due to my repair job.
You'll notice one of the walls does not seem to fit well with the upper window portion. I don't know why that is. The instructions and the pilot model do not reflect it, and I am sure I got the correct parts. It seemed apparent to me that the top would need to be trimmed to size. Deepening the mystery is a reference in the instructions to an odd-sized window. I gathered that the trimming was to be done to the window frame end, but since enough regular sized windows were supplied, I choses to trim away from the solid panel end. You'll see in the finished wall photos what I mean.
The boiler house went together easily. I sanded the edges that meet the enamel works walls to accommodate the angle, but otherwise no problem.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-210120194958-42564430.jpeg)
Below is another angle of this end of the structure.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-210120194958-425821263.jpeg)
Here is a top-down view to see how the entire enamel works looks. Sorry, a little blurry.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-210120194959-425831795.jpeg)
Next up is the Annex, a multi-story structure with lots of unusual features.
--Opa George
Looking really great, George!
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: mark dalrymple on January 22, 2020, 04:02:31 AM
Looking really great, George!
Cheers, Mark.
Thank you, Mark!
--Opa George
Nice work. The weathering is perfect.
Jeff
Quote from: Zephyrus52246 on January 22, 2020, 07:50:00 AM
Nice work. The weathering is perfect.
Jeff
Thanks much, Jeff. Very glad to have you looking over my shoulder.
Opa George
I'll come back to the enamel works before too long, when it is time to locate it next to the mill works buildings on the diorama base.
The final structure in the kit is the Annex, a multi-story, multi-material building with lots of visual interest. Below are the walls, identified and laid out. It's always a relief to get to the end of a very large kit with no major parts or walls missing. Looks like everything is here.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-220120193516.jpeg)
I applied bracing and started to distress the walls with a card file and a welder's brush, and whatever else makes it look decrepit. I'm still working on that, and will need to lift clapboards and such, so a further photo later with that work.
--Opa George
Wow, you've really made progress while I was MIA, George.
AS usual, your build looks terrific, you definitely have a artist's bent.
Watching for more.
Jim
George,
MIA here also. Wonderful job on the build. I've enjoyed the journey and will follow to the end.
Tom ;D
Hey Opa George:
You are doing a just beautiful job on this one. Keep those photos coming.
Karl
Thank you, Karl, Tom and Jim.
I'll try to get a photo or two up this evening. Last evening I finished scribing and distressing the Annex walls and got two types of weathering stain on: A & I and some Hunterline. No paint yet. While they dried I started cleaning up a large box of castings I got from Railroad Kits at Timonium, and got so involved I never got to painting the wall.
--Opa George
Hey George:
You are quite welcome.
Karl
George, your work looks great. And, now that I am also in the middle of building Bandit's Roost, I have to say that I have a whole new level of respect for your modeling skills. This is my first FOS kit. Instructions are "lean" to put it mildly. Having to fish around on multiple sheets for parts of the same building adds to the challenge. If this were my first kit, I would be cooked. Definitely got spoiled with the guidance you get from an FSM or SRMW kit (and, I'm expecting the same from Sierra West). Part of growing up as a modeler, I reckon.
Cheers,
V
Quote from: vinceg on January 25, 2020, 10:25:32 AM
George, your work looks great. And, now that I am also in the middle of building Bandit's Roost, I have to say that I have a whole new level of respect for your modeling skills. This is my first FOS kit. Instructions are "lean" to put it mildly. Having to fish around on multiple sheets for parts of the same building adds to the challenge. If this were my first kit, I would be cooked. Definitely got spoiled with the guidance you get from an FSM or SRMW kit (and, I'm expecting the same from Sierra West). Part of growing up as a modeler, I reckon.
Cheers,
V
Vince, thanks for the words of encouragement. Please ask if you get to a mystery or confusing part.
Your note that walls are spread out over various sheets is quite true. I've come to approach the really big FOS kits kind of like a puzzle that I have to solve before starting construction. Strange to say, I have come to rather enjoy the hunt.
As far as the extra steps or detailing that might be glossed over in the instructions, my best advice is to go to the FOS Scale Models Facebook page and search for the photo sets of Bandits Roost. I saved every one I could find to my local computer hard drive. Opened to their full resolution in any photo viewer, they reveal tons of close-up detail from just about every angle.
--Opa George
Here are the walls to the Annex painted, braced and ready for doors, windows and detailing. The four at the top will have individual boards applied, so they require no finishing at the moment. I went with white and yellow ochre for the colors.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-260120190238-42700125.jpeg)
Here are the same walls with windows, glazing, shades and a few signs. I'll start assembling tomorrow.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-260120190238-42701572.jpeg)
--Opa George
Here are the annex walls in sub assemblies. The smallest section is the first floor. The task board assembly is waiting to be covered in 2x10 boards. I stained them with three different shades of Hunterline stain: Blue Gray, Light Gray and Driftwood, plus a fourth batch in my own A&I solution. Most were then sponge painted with white on one side only, and one strip painted a mossy green on one side.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-270120194643-427091238.jpeg)
All of the sub assemblies now together into the three-story annex. The small first floor goes flush against the "Vallon Paint" side. I marked a tiny centerline mark on both the first floor and the second floor to line them up.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-270120194643-42711831.jpeg)
The other side.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-270120194644-42712447.jpeg)
This end faces the reservoir (back of the diorama).
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-270120194644-42713315.jpeg)
This side faces the front of the diorama. Vallon Paint will connect flush to the right wall.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-270120194644-427142309.jpeg)
A top-down view. I added some black construction paper to overlap between the second and third floor joint underneath the individual board assembly, to guard against any light leaks.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-270120194728.jpeg)
Tomorrow I'll put a roof on.
--Opa George
Awesome modeling George.
Thanks for checking in and for the nice comment, Curt!
Last evening I added the roof and the rafter tails. Nothing unusual, standard procedure:
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-290120194439-427332396.jpeg)
Tonight the muse visited and told me to put a big hole in the roof. Admittedly it would have been easier to form the hole and the underlying rafters before gluing the roof in place, but who wants it easy? This way is more fun.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-290120194440-427341776.jpeg)
I began covering the hole with torn roofing paper. The watercolor markers are handy for coloring the torn edges of the paper, and for coloring the cardboard around the edges of the hole. This color is "Charcoal."
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-290120194440-427351629.jpeg)
Some more roofing paper on the left side, so I can show some missing metal panels. Then I began laying in rows of corrugated roofing.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-290120194440-42736689.jpeg)
This is as far as I got before work called. So more tomorrow, including finishing up this side and then starting on the other side of the roof.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-290120194440-427371438.jpeg)
--Opa George
Love the roof.
Looking great George! Nice job with the peeling paint effect, and the roof looks nicely decrepit!
Hey George:
Looks just great. Love the hole in the roof. Paint and weathering is also done well.
Karl
Hi Curt, Mark and Karl, really appreciate you looking in. Thanks!
Well the Annex roof is done, or should I say "done for?" The old man sent a few of his boys up to spread out some tarps to keep the rain off the stock. They seem to have got one tarp on before quitting for lunch, or a smoke, or maybe it started raining...
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-300120200731-42748242.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-300120200731-42777710.jpeg)
Next job: I need to make the supports that actually keep the building from falling down.
--Opa George
Wow -- the tarps and the rope look amazing.
George
Ditto what Vince said! Fantastic details.
Thanks, John and Vince. Both details were super easy to make.
For tarps, I used a tissue (basic "Kleenex" style facial tissue, not tissue wrapping paper). Separate into the two layers and paint a single layer with acrylic paint. I mixed some green with white to get a pale, sun-faded green. Use a brush and of course apply paint liberally but carefully, to avoid tearing it. Let dry then do the other side. Let dry thoroughly. Once dry, it makes excellent tarp material because it dries slightly wrinkled and is strong enough to cut, shape, roll, etc.
Kudos to Todd Wiley of HO Scale Customs for the painted tissue trick. The resulting material also makes great curtains for windows. It can be modeled to look as if it is hanging or blowing out of the window.
The rope is gold colored cotton thread. I got a cache from my wife of old cotton thread--don't use modern polyester thread. I made it slightly wet for better shape control, then put a glob of white glue on my thumb and index finger and ran the length of thread between, impregnating it with just a bit of glue. Cleaned my hands and quickly shaped it.
--Opa George
hey George:
WOW really looking cool. Love the drop cloths on the roof.
Karl
George great detailing on the roof. Very realistic looking.
Jerry
Outstanding details George..... 8)
Thanks for the comments, Karl, Jerry and Greg. Certainly appreciated.
Today I added the supporting framework and timbers that hold up the second and third floors of this structure. A die-cut template was included, but I found it awkward to use, so instead cut the pieces to length using the full size plan in the instructions. It worked just as well for me. While sub-assemblies dried, I also assembled the wooden conveyer that connects this structure to the main enamel works building. It is shown in front of the annex--just a small, long box structure, but a nice detail.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-020220142416.jpeg)
The brown tarpaper roof on the conveyer is not yet trimmed or weathered.
In making the timber supports for the annex, I discovered from the instructions that I was supposed to inset the first floor to allow for a full side length support. My picture of the other side was a little blurry, but you'll see later that I chose to only put partial timber supports on either side of the first floor. I think it looks ok and logical. This structure is supposed to represent something built in stages as needed, so I think that choice won't be inconsistent.
--Opa George
Great modeling and I love the mustard color .
I'm finally around to staging the structures on my layout. Below is the enamel works sitting at height in relation to the mill buildings. The mill buildings are fixed in place, but the enamel works is just sitting on a partial foundation.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-110220171910-42984138.jpeg)
Below gives a better idea of the "foundation" under the enamel works. It is a high angled stone arch and the works, glued to the front, has its rear hanging in mid-air for the moment. There will, of course, be walls under that part.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-110220171910-42985862.jpeg)
Below, a shot from the front. This is about eye level to the viewer.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-110220171910-42986231.jpeg)
Opa George
Really nice George.
Looking spectacular, George!
I assume you have noticed that the two dormers need attention? It looks like have changed the slope on the roofs on the bottom two steps of the apartments. I'd comment about that chimney that is a few degrees off vertical - but I have seen plenty in the prototype that look like that! After our 2011 earthquake half the chimneys in Christchurch looked like that! Either that or a pile of bricks on the ground (or the bonnet of your flash car if you were really unlucky!)
I still haven't quite worked out exactly what you have planned - but its certainly very interesting!
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: mark dalrymple on February 11, 2020, 08:07:31 PM
Looking spectacular, George!
I assume you have noticed that the two dormers need attention? It looks like have changed the slope on the roofs on the bottom two steps of the apartments. I'd comment about that chimney that is a few degrees off vertical - but I have seen plenty in the prototype that look like that! After our 2011 earthquake half the chimneys in Christchurch looked like that! Either that or a pile of bricks on the ground (or the bonnet of your flash car if you were really unlucky!)
I still haven't quite worked out exactly what you have planned - but its certainly very interesting!
Cheers, Mark.
Thanks, Mark. Yes, that one dormer in particular is a problem, although in person it is less noticeable--the angle of the second two units being so different. I also notice the underside of the cardboard roofs is still uncolored. I must have neglected that step. The camera reveals all! The entire module is not yet secured to the layout so that I can work on it at the bench. So much to do!
This project is turning into a very wild ride, and certainly in a good fun way. Most of my layout has a distinct fantasy flavor. I originally thought this would be more mundane industrial section to fill in the bluff over the inlet, but my sense of Gothic creepiness is taking over and it is starting to get a bit odd like the rest.
--Opa George
George,
Well done on this huge build. Looking forward to where you plant this one.
Tom ;D
Thank you, Tom.
Here are two more pictures of the module at my workbench. I have the siting worked out and am now starting to build the scenery up to meet the structures. That may be somewhat backwards, but it is mostly how I have always done it.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-170220120446-4309085.jpeg)
Here is an angle showing it from the front side. I also took a shot from the canal side, but it was too blurry to use. I'll get more shots to post shortly.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-170220120446-430912275.jpeg)
Next up will be a lot of foundational scenery work.
--Opa George
WOW!
Just catching up with all the builds.
George, you are amazing. You are on of those people blessed with a artist's sense, to go with your building skills.
Love this build.
Jim
Thank you very much, Jim!
--Opa George
I've been slowly getting some terra firma under the Bandit's Roost buildings. This area is Ragged Edge, and it built on top of where the old sewers empty into the industrial canal. It's a little difficult to get a good sense of the overall scene, with the module still sitting on my workbench.
Lots of work to do in getting the various walls "knit" together. But it is coming together.
--Opa George
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-210220170358-431381069.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-210220170358-431461086.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-210220170358-43147137.jpeg)
George,
Wow, what a fantastic looking scene. Just wonderful.
Tom ;D
Tom, thanks, glad you like it so far.
I've been working on the scenery a bit, roughing it in. Below are some shots of Ragged Edge, featuring the Bandit's Roost area. I installed a narrow gauge line to connect this small town, clinging to the side of a coastal hill, to the rest of civilization. You can see the track in the foreground. Please excuse all the background workbench detritus.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-260220185325-43256868.jpeg)
This is where the sewers empty into the industrial canal. The water is acrylic paint with a first coat of Mod Podge. It will take a good 10-12 coats to get a nice water effect.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-260220185326-432571792.jpeg)
Here is a detail shot of the canal passing behind the lower part of town. Oops, I see I got some green paint on one of the pilings. That is due for a touch-up. Keep in mind in all these shots, I have lots of additional scenicking to do, not to mention a ton of detail work. I have some big plans for this area. The sewer system, partially visible through the stone arches at the rear, is visible from both the front and back when you get up close and/or look down into it from above. It continues out through another arch to the back of the module.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-260220185327-43258369.jpeg)
Here is the overall module from the front. The trolley is making a stop. I was seduced by this model and picked it up for a song on eBay. I was really surprised by the nice level of detail for a $15 model. It is distinctly European and will require some modifications to Americanize it. But plenty of time for that. The narrow gauge trolley line extends to the left and will (eventually) cross a swamp on a wooden lowboy trestle before disappearing into a tunnel.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-260220185328-432591158.jpeg)
Lots more to do, but I am pleased with my progress. I'll keep posting pics as the scenery gets going.
--Opa George
Really nice George.
Coming on very well, George.
Cheers, Mark.
Looking great , love the trolley.
Thank you, Curt, Mark and Jan.
Jan, the trolley is not powered and in fact is the wrong gauge for the track. For some reason, I was under the impression that this line of HO "trams" were all HOn30, so that was the track I ordered (Peco HOn30 flex track). Unfortunately, once the track arrived, I discovered the tram/trolley wheels were too wide. Must actually be HOn3. :o
So I may be looking to change the wheel sets to fit the track. In the meantime, it is just centered on the track, but not actually on the rails! The nice thing is, it sits low enough that you can't tell.
--Opa George
I've added more structural details and stuff to help hide the joints between the various plaster and cardboard land form components. There are still a few more of that type of things to build and add before going wild with the natural growth: dirt and groundcover, weeds, bushes, trees and vines.
For now, here are some birds-eye views while the module is still on my workbench. I was trying to get some light down into the sewer area for the pics and might have overdone it--the first two shots are a bit overlit.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-010320091010-433041981.jpeg)
and closer--slightly better view of the where the sewers empty into the canal:
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-010320091011-433052269.jpeg)
Coming around the side toward the canal.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-010320091012-433062014.jpeg)
Looking down from the very top of Bandit's Roost. It is 33 scale feet from lower street level to the factory first floor loading dock, and about 90 scale feet from the canal to the top of the factory. This is about what I was going for--dramatic height difference in an abbreviated space.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-010320091013-43307399.jpeg)
View from Bandit's Roost down into the lower town and canal.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-010320091014-433081247.jpeg)
--Opa George
Very impressive George.
Hey George:
Wow that's really looking just great.
Karl
Thanks so much, Curt and Karl.
--Opa George
A very complicated and well built project. Turned out very nice.
Thanks very much, Steve. Although complicated, it has also been thoroughly enjoyable.
As the biggest job remaining is adding foliage, I may call this thread finished so that I can start my companion project and new thread, FOS Rust Rock Falls, which will connect to this module and occupy the high ground right next to it.
I will probably do one more post with a summary of my experiences with this kit.
George
George just getting caught up. Well done!!
Scenery part is coming along nicely. Keep up the great work.
Jerry
Thank you, Jerry!
Here are some more scenery pics. I have the module in place on the layout, which unfortunately is a poorly-lit corner of my basement. More overhead lights coming soon, but for now please excuse the dungeon look.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-090320194841-43398809.jpeg)
and some images with the camera flash on:
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-090320194842-433991506.jpeg)
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-090320194843-434001836.jpeg)
and a birds-eye view:
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-090320194844-434011715.jpeg)
Still need to add foliage, but I have decided to add a structure (probably a Bar Mills kit, of which I have a few on hand) to the green swath at the top of the hill where the road makes its switch-back climb. So I'll get the extra structure in place so I can better judge where to plant some tall, tall trees and add lots of weedy undergrowth to the swamp.
--Opa George
Love it...the kind of scene you can get lost in....so many directions for the eyes to wander and find more
John
Looks awesome George.
Hey George:
what can I say but WOW!!!! and awesome.
Karl
Great job George..... 8)
Very nice George. I love all the elevation changes.
Thanks very much for all the positive feedback John, Curt, Karl, Gregory and Steve!
I'm in the middle of Bar Mills' Staton Marine-- about a 4 inch by 6 inch footprint kit to fill the yellow-green swath at the top of the hill in the last two pics. I plan to use it as a small feeder industry for the large factories on the summit. Haven't quite decided yet--maybe a tool and die, or electrical supply or? I'll post progress pics once I get that structure in place.
--Opa George
I spent a few days building a kit structure for the vacant area at the summit of Bandit's Roost. I chose a Bar Mills Staton Marine kit as most appropriate to the available footprint as well as it's design as one that will architecturally fit with its neighboring structures. No build thread on that one--it is a relatively straightforward build with few kinks.
Here it is in place. Even thought it will not be a marine supply, I liked and kept the large "GAS" stencil for the roof. Haven't named it or applied a business sign yet. Haven't even totally determined what type of business it is. Waiting for the muse to visit.
Photo below--I added a scratch deck walkway to the freight door side, and a really nice "Nick & Nora Designs" Rooftop Water Tank to the roof, just because. By the way, I really enjoyed building the water tank kit and highly recommend picking one up if you see them at a show.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-200320101018.jpeg)
With the extra structure in place, I began planting trees. Below are a few pics of the overall module with about a dozen trees in place. I have more to add, plus groundcover, bushes and vines. Not to mention additional detail castings.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-200320100907-43539755.jpeg)
The batteries in my camera were getting low, giving me less than sharp focus. I'll replace the batteries before taking additional pics tomorrow.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-200320100906-43538500.jpeg)
I placed black showboard behind the module to remove the distracting background of my paint shelf.
(https://modelersforum.com/gallery/779-200320100904-434911359.jpeg)
--Opa George
Wow. That's an impressive and dramatic scene George. Very nicely done.
Hey George:
All I can say WOW!!!!! what a beautiful job on that kit.
Karl
Great work as usual George. Amazing what height does to a scene when used creatively as you have done. Really like the tram in the scene as well. Reminds me of something heading in an RR form of Myst/Riven!
Looking good, George.
The new structure adds nicely to the scene and the water tank on the roof gives it a proportionally pleasing vertical element.
Cheers, Mark.
Quote from: vinceg on March 20, 2020, 01:34:49 PM
Wow. That's an impressive and dramatic scene George. Very nicely done.
Thanks very much for the kind response, Vince. I do love the "drama" of a good hillside scene.
--Opa George
Quote from: postalkarl on March 20, 2020, 01:42:35 PM
Hey George:
All I can say WOW!!!!! what a beautiful job on that kit.
Karl
Thanks, Karl. High praise from a master builder. I appreciate it. This is the most intricate and involved kit I have ever worked on, to date, and I am very pleased with it overall. Waiting in the wings is Master Creations Watt Moreland Waxworks. From what I have heard about Master Creations kits, it will take all my patience and experience with complicated kits to pull it off.
--Opa George
Quote from: Rail and Tie on March 20, 2020, 01:58:15 PM
Great work as usual George. Amazing what height does to a scene when used creatively as you have done. Really like the tram in the scene as well. Reminds me of something heading in an RR form of Myst/Riven!
Thanks much, Darryl. I must mention how happy I am to have found this forum to post work. There are some forums that would not be nearly as accepting of my rather unorthodox fantasy style. As I mentioned way back at the start, the companion module that connects to this one is the new FOS Rust Rock Falls. The main factory in that kit will be a depression-era Mechanical Man factory. Think "Boilerplate" from the popular comic.
--Opa George
Quote from: mark dalrymple on March 20, 2020, 02:18:38 PM
Looking good, George.
The new structure adds nicely to the scene and the water tank on the roof gives it a proportionally pleasing vertical element.
Cheers, Mark.
Thanks very much, Mark. I'm really pleased you picked up on that. I try to use the concept of odd groupings, 3s, 5s, 7s, for eye appeal. I was aware the mill row and the main factory made a group of two high points, and felt I needed that third one to round it out.
--Opa George
Really outstanding modeling George.
QuoteThanks very much, Mark. I'm really pleased you picked up on that. I try to use the concept of odd groupings, 3s, 5s, 7s, for eye appeal. I was aware the mill row and the main factory made a group of two high points, and felt I needed that third one to round it out.
The eye bounces down nicely from the mill tower to the highest chimney to the top of the water tower too. I often find smoke stacks great for leading the eye around a scene - probably why I have so many of them!
Cheers, Mark.
George
Very nice work. I too, love all the elevation changes.
George,
Wonderful, just wonderful. I love all the colors and the different levels. The diorama brings it all together.
Tom ;D
George,
Elevation changes and composition are great, really looking forward to seeing the "rest of the story", as you add grass, bushes, trees, etc. FWIW, I recently built Staton Marine. I plan to use mine as a small barn, like the versatility of the Bar Mills design.
George
What can be said after all the compliments??
Except what a wonderful scene you have created!!
Jerry